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C ollector’s Our Annual Greeting Card to the World Editio n DECEMBER 2005 heaven on earth Our Best Writers and Photographers Reflect on the Spirit of Place Tony Hillerman • David Muench • Alberto Ríos • Charles Bowden • Gary Ladd • Jack Dykinga • Craig Childs • Lawrence W. Cheek • and more . DECEMBER 2005 Navajoland page 24 {also in this issue} {highways on television} The Great Snowstorm of 1967 by Betty Reid Arizona Highways magazine has inspired an independent weekly 46 Christmas in Arizona Territory television series, hosted by Phoenix TV news anchor Robin Sewell. The Picture Rocks page 25 Pioneers found peace and happiness during the holidays, half-hour program can be seen in several cities in English and Spanish. And the Winner Is . by Jerry E. Airth despite Indian threats and sparse supplies. For channels and show times, log on to arizonahighways.com; click on “DISCOVER ARIZONA”; then click on the “Arizona Highways goes to Colorado Plateau page 26 50 Spirit of the Poinsettia television!” link on the right-hand side. Lessons From Camp by Charles Bowden The multicolored plants, natives of Mexico, {specialfeatures} add special charm to Christmas. White Mountains page 33 Spirit of Place page 6-45 A Blue Christmas on the Mountain by Jo Baeza online arizonahighways.com For the December issue, we asked our writers and photographers {departments} Take time to experience the joy of the holiday season. Scottsdale page 34 to illuminate the spirit of place by describing special locations Go to arizonahighways.com and click on our “Holiday Guide” for: An Airplane in the Hay by Ron Carlson or memories that have shaped their lives. Here’s what they have 2 ALL WHO WANDER • A handbook on unique Arizona holiday celebrations for you: Gila River page 35 4 VIEWFINDER • A statewide listing of holiday events Peace in a Shady Grove on the Gila by Gregory McNamee PLUS, get our regular monthly online-only features: 52 ALONG THE WAY HUMOR Gene Perret “volunteers” to go Christmas shopping. Navajoland page 13 White Mountain Apache Reservation page 36 54 DESTINATION ONLINE EXTRA Arizona ranchers find Japanese ingenuity Getting to Goldtooth by Tony Hillerman Down to the Cornfield by Kathy Lacapa mutually beneficial. 56 HIKE OF THE MONTH Yavapai County page 14 South Phoenix page 41 WEEKEND GETAWAY Visit Tucson’s west side to experience The Ranch-shaped Heart by Terry Greene Sterling The Star That Followed El Niño by Stella Pope Duarte Sonoran Desert splendor. TRAVEL THROUGH TIME Discover a few of Arizona’s lost Flagstaff page 15 Sabino Canyon page 42 Spanish treasures. A Delicate River of Light by Roger Naylor The Canyon That Broke a Fall by Lawrence W. Cheek THIS PAGE A Cape Royal vista offers a sunset view of the North Rim of the Grand EXPERIENCE ARIZONA Use our statewide calendar of events. n Canyon. RICHARD DANLEY To order a print of this photograph, see information at right. Nogales Wash page 16 Outback Arizona page 43 FRONT COVER Clouds suffuse the Grand Canyon below Mount Hayden and Point Memory of a Summer Snow by Alberto Ríos Mapping the Way to Self-reliance by Bill Broyles Imperial. RICHARD DANLEY n To order a print of this photograph, see information at right. Photographic Prints Available BACK COVER Stars turn into streaks of light behind Monument Valley’s famous n To order photographic prints, call (866) 962-1191 Cabeza Prieta page 23 Grand Canyon page 44 n Mittens during this eight-hour exposure. KERRICK JAMES To order a print of this or visit www.magazineprints.com. Dry Tranquility by Craig Childs Death, Dreams and Fishing Poles by Pete Aleshire photograph, see information at right. by Peter Aleshire, editor {all who wander} DECEMBER 2005 VOL. 81, NO. 12 Publisher WIN HOLDEN they have forgotten those essential things and best light I’ve ever felt washed over me. Then I Editor PETER ALESHIRE learned them afresh from their own children. stood and watched them; my grief shrank to a Senior Editor BETH DEVENY Heart-stopping Light Can Heal Even Heartbreak Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN The moment we reached the island, the boys ripple of sand. Research Editor LORI K. BAKER leaped from the boat, Seth in the lead as always Finally, I turned back to the boat. Editorial Administrator CONNIE BOCH in a Place That Smoothes the Mind and Noah following him like a duckling imp with Freed by the wind from my careless mooring, Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK he apaches believe that certain for I was his shadow. He dropped out of grade a crooked grin. it floated 50 feet from shore. places smooth your mind and make school after an argument with the teacher, but I hastily looped the bow rope around a rock “The boat, the boat,” I cried as I stripped off Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP you wise if you just listen to them. As spent one week with me in college attending my before turning to survey the photographic my clothes. Art Assistant PAULY HELLER T this issue demonstrates, so do our writers and classes. His extravagant joy in learning about possibilities. Noah and Seth ceased from their dancing and Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY photographers. Is it the same for you? Is that ancient China and constitutional law has made The boys had run out across a ridgeline riffle watched me in wonder. Arizona Highways Books Editor BOB ALBANO why you read Arizona Highways, to find those me revere books ever since. He died hard, but of red sand. Seth was dancing along the ridge, I plunged into the cold water, swam through places that smooth the mind? Perhaps you will only after the prostate cancer got into his brain. intoxicated by the light. Noah shadowed him the choppy seas, clenched the bow rope in my Production Director KIM ENSENBERGER Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON write to me about the places your heart has The last time he remembered me, I took him out with demented, sorcerer’s apprentice leaps to teeth and somehow breaststroked it back to Webmaster VICKY SNOW embraced, as a cottonwood root grows around a of the nursing home to sit at the end of an airport ensure that his small feet landed precisely in his shore against the wind. Director of Sales & Marketing KELLY MERO stone. Send me a paragraph about your favorite runway watching the jets pass overhead. He was a older brother’s footprints. They each cast a manic The boys laughed until they rolled on the Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN place and why you love it, then I’ll post it on our child in his glee. shadow 30 feet long. ground when I emerged from the water, naked Finance Director BOB ALLEN Web site (arizonahighways.com). Just write me So I had come wounded to this intersection of They danced in perfect tune to the wind and and exhausted. at the e-mail address below or the address on water and sky — the most beautiful of lakes made the water and the sky and the rock. Chilled, I sat on the red sand in the last Information Technology Manager Healing Place CINDY BORMANIS our masthead by drowning the most exquisite of canyons. I was struck dumb. For the surge of a yearning, light — perfectly happy with the spirit of that Noah and Seth Aleshire dance across FOR CUSTOMER INQUIRIES In the meantime, enjoy this issue as But seeing my boys roll about in the I wished that Walt could see them. But I perfect place. Lake Powell sands OR TO ORDER BY PHONE: mystery novelist Tony Hillerman finds burnished light, I felt a renewed throb of life. understood then that I must see it for him, as my Call toll-free: (800) 543-5432 in light so rich it In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., the perfect Navajo dog, writer Larry Cheek They have taught me most of what I know, boys must one day watch for me. can ease grief. Call (602) 712-2000 revisits the rock in a canyon where he found although they won’t understand that until Belatedly, I fumbled with my camera as the [email protected] PETER ALESHIRE Or visit us online at: solace, iconoclast Charles Bowden watches arizonahighways.com For Corporate or Trade Sales: the stars with a brilliant old man at the end of DOLORES FIELD his journey and Navajo journalist Betty Reid Call (602) 712-2045 remembers the blizzard that broke her heart in E-MAIL LETTERS TO THE EDITOR: boarding school. In visual counterpoint, the [email protected] best landscape photographers in the country Regular Mail: capture photons bouncing off the places they Editor 2039 W. Lewis Ave. love, freezing them in this celebration of light Phoenix, AZ 85009 and place. Governor Janet Napolitano As I read these wise, sometimes-funny essays Director, Department of Transportation Victor M. Mendez and marveled at this magical light, I found myself thinking of a place that healed me. ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD It was a decade ago as my rented boat Chairman Dallas “Rusty” Gant, Wickenburg Vice Chairman Richard “Dick” Hileman, spattered across the choppy surface of Lake Lake Havasu City Members James W. “Jim” Martin, Willcox Powell. My sons Noah and Seth, then 9 and Joe Lane, Phoenix 11, sat in the open front, laughing and gasping S.L. “Si” Schorr, Tucson Delbert Householder, Thatcher in fear and delight. I muttered a faint curse, Robert M. “Bob” Montoya, Flagstaff realizing I’d once again overstayed the light. I’m INTERNATIONAL REGIONAL MAGAZINE ASSOCIATION a lackadaisical luffer of a photographer, light- 2004, 2003, 2001, 2000, 1998, addicted but undisciplined.
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