How many Australians have speared a trevally with a traditional owner in the aquamarine waters off Arnhem Land, slept in a swag under a canopy of stars in the Simpson Desert, watched flocks of red-legged jabiru rise from billabongs thick with purple water lilies or found the perfect 65 Robinson Crusoe tropical isle? Many of us leave it until we’ve qualified as grey nomads* and are already retired. Australia has a wealth of travel adventures from pristine wilderness to the isolated outback and T+L, in consultation with a panel of experts, has found them. Australian PLACES So, don’t wait – go now. TO VISIT BEFORE YOU

TURN SIXTY-FIVE * grey nomad say: gray ‘nohmad noun colloquial: 1. an older person, often retired from full-time work, By susan gough henly who travels around the country, living in a caravan or motorhome. definition: macquarie dictionary

107 In selecting our 65 remarkable, Aboriginal community; You must see Australia because The Specialists and often secret, places we have Tasmania’s Overland Track “It’s our own backyard but there on the water sought the guidance of experi- and exploring the south- is still so much that is unknown.” Drew Kluska, founder of Bruny Island, TAS enced trailblazers and special- west wilderness. Outback Encounter, and Tonia Cochran of Inala ists who have seen Australia. You must see Australia because BARRY DAVIES Charlie Carlow, founder Nature Tours conducts bird- “It is vital to show your children Lamington Plateau-based Barry of Wilderness Australia, watching and wildlife tours have distilled the essence of THE TRAILBLAZERS so they can understand their Davies is a freelance, certified while Bruny Island Charters Australia to offer their well- offers a dramatic boat trip to a own country before they head eco-guide who leads walking, heeled, mostly international, seal colony. Bruny Island is 40 BARBARA AND off across the world.” bird watching and other special- clients opportunities to stay kilometres south of Hobart, JOHN SULLIVAN interest tours throughout in intimate properties and accessible by ferry (www. Queenslanders Barbara and GILL AND BARRY Australia and the world. He experience unspoilt locations brunyisland.net.au); Inala with locals. Both of these John Sullivan spent more than BRACKEN operates tours through his Nature Tours, 320 Cloudy travel innovators drew inspi- Bay Road; 03 6293 1217; a decade living in the United Sydneysiders Gill and Barry company, Gondwana Guides. ration from the African safari www.inalabruny.com.au; States and Europe before set- Bracken have retired to a vine- He won the Ecotourism Associa- experience. The irony is, says Bruny Island Charters, tling in Sydney. Barbara is the yard in the Hunter Valley. tion’s Australian EcoGuide of Kluska, they are showing visi- 03 6293 1465; www.bruny chief executive of a trade pub- Barry was a leading orthopaedic the Year Award in 2005. tors a side of Australia that charters.com.au; Accommo- most of its residents have lishing firm and John runs his surgeon while Gill worked Next trips Norfolk Island; a dation: Morella Island never seen. own real estate company. They in finance. They have combed seven-day walking trip along Retreats, 03 6293 1131; “Australia has some of the . www.morella-island.com.au. have explored Queensland, Australia in their 4WD the rabbit-proof fence through

last great wildernesses on soo the High Country, the Flinders exploring the Flinders the mountains of the Scenic Rim earth and there is a certain Strahan and the Gordon Ranges, the Simpson Desert, Ranges and the Red Centre, in southern Queensland. eccentricity about the loca- River, West Coast Yacht jennifer

tions and characters that : the Red Centre, the Top End and crossing the Simpson Desert You must see Australia because Charters, TAS give the country a particular

page Sail across Macquarie the Kimberley in their 4WD. and driving from Sydney to ”It is rich with ancient stories, charm,” says Carlow.” We try Harbour on the 20-metre Next trips The Gulf Country; up Perth. They’ve also done fascinating wildlife, colourful Roaring 40s kayaking takes place at Breaksea Island, TAS, seen here from Mount Stokes. to translate what is uniquely ketch, Stormbreaker, and up the Oodnadatta Track and the extensive long-distance landscapes and characters. Australian and take off the previous the Gordon River where you . Tanami Track to Halls Creek. sailing trips and cruised the It is unique.” rough edges.” stay the night. Enjoy the rain-

You must see Australia because north coast of Australia from forest’s mirrored reflections flowers “The sheer remoteness can’t Broome to Cairns. long after the cruise ships have left. 03 6471 7422; be replicated anywhere else in Next trips Max Davidson’s tasmania reveal human habitation for Brickendon, Longford www.tasadventures.com/wcyc the world.” Arnhem Land safaris; Cocos The Lodge at 30,000 years). Why here Stay in the historic mcgregor

(Keeling) Islands off Australia’s Tarraleah In the know From the base of coachman’s or gardener’s Myall Lakes, NSW jodie IAN AND SIMONE CARSON north-west coast. Why here Located on the edge a comfortable bush camp, cottage at this working farm The largest coastal lake system Ian Carson, chairman of a major of the Tasmanian wilderness, Roaring 40s Kayaking offers run by the same family for in NSW and an important from turnaround company, and his this Art Deco lodge, originally kayaking in a vast drowned river seven generations. water bird habitat makes this a perfect area for meandering wife, Simone, recently returned built to house Tasmania’s hydro valley surrounded by jagged In the know Kids love to feed the by houseboat. Luxury House-

from a 10-week trip with their eucalyptus electricity officers, now show- mountains. There’s also walking ducks, goats and chickens and boat Hire, Bulahdelah; ; three children circumnavigat- cases contemporary Tasmanian across dramatic ridges, button- play old-fashioned games in 02 4997 4380; www.luxury ing Australia from Cairns to design, local gourmet special- grass plains and ancient forest. the original farm village with its houseboat.com.au morton Melbourne. Two years ago they ties and a wide range of wines Essentials 03 6267 5000; www. barn, chapel, henhouse, bakery Great Barrier Reef with created Second Bite, a non- and single malt whiskies, not to roaring40skayaking.com.au and woolshed. megan Enterprise Charters, QLD profit organisation that recycles mention sensational fly-fishing, Essentials 03 6391 1383; www. This 17-metre luxury cruiser, surplus food from markets. bushwalking, mountain-biking Pepper Bush brickendon.com.au; 20 minutes with a master and two twin styling Next trips Camping with an ; and wildlife. Adventures drive south-west of Launceston. cabins, offers private cruis- ing on the reef, with exquisite prior In the know Enjoy the view over Why here Tasmania is your oyster food and snorkelling. You forested green hills and valleys with Craig Williams at the helm. new south wales choose wherever you want to amanda from the cliff-top hot tub. This local bushie is an expert on : go between Port Douglas and Essentials 03 6289 1199; the Tasmanian wilderness and Mungo National Park Lizard Island. 07 4098 5279; www.tarraleahlodge.com; crafts trips tailored to your inter- Why here The moonlike land- www.stargatemarine.com opposite . a two-hour drive from Hobart ests, be they bushwalking, wine- scape of Mungo National Park, Kimberley coast, Coral or Launceston. tasting or wildlife-viewing. part of the Willandra Lakes Princess Cruises, WA bennett In the know He is particularly World Heritage area, contains “The Coral Princess Cruise we South-west fond of showing people the traces of Aboriginal inhabitancy did from Darwin to Broome richard

/ Wilderness reclusive platypus, the eastern going back 40,000 years, mak- was stunning, right at the top Why here This is one of the most quoll and virgin old-growth for- ing it the oldest known site of of our favourite Australian remote places on the planet, ests, but be sure and ask for his human occupation in Australia. journeys anywhere,” says Gill kayaking Bracken. Visit a Wandjina art s doubly inscribed on the World bush-tucker recipes such as In the know Take a tour with site at Bigge Island, fly to the 40 Heritage list for its values both Tasmanian three-spice trout Aboriginal guides from Harry Mitchell Falls by helicopter, natural (it is one of three remain- with lemon myrtle, mountain Nanya Tours to visit places witness the tidal rush at Hori- roaring ing temperate wilderness areas pepper and native kunzea. like the Walls of China. Stay at zontal Falls. 07 4040 9999; in the Southern Hemisphere) Essentials 03 6352 2263; the Aboriginal-owned Mungo www.coralprincess.com.au

courtesy and cultural (indigenous sites www.pepperbush.com.au Lodge, which is reopening in ∫

108 109 SAFARIS

April 2008 after a complete stretch of white sand fringing Remote Aboriginal art Davidson’s Arnhem Land refurbishment. the aquamarine sea. communities by air Safaris, NT Essentials Harry Nanya Tours, In the know Women learn about Why here Visit Balgo Hills, Davidson’s is number one on the list for everyone who has 03 5027 2076; www.harry basket-weaving and men about Fitzroy Crossing, Maningrida, explored the Top End. nanyatours.com.au; Mungo spearing fish. And more often Ngukkur, Tiwi Islands, Yirrkala “A major highlight is the rock Lodge, 03 5029 7297; than not, you’ll enjoy a big feast and Haast’s Bluff to learn about art and the birdlife is extra- www.mungolodge.com.au; of fish, oysters and mud crab. each culture and buy art directly ordinary,” says Ian Carson. 110 kilometres from Mildura Essentials Port Bradshaw, Opposite from left: the from the artists. 08 8927 5240; www.arnhem Maningrida Aboriginal land-safaris.com in south-western NSW. 08 8987 3433; dhanbul. In the know Art collector, experi- art community in Arnhem [email protected]; Qantas Land, NT; posh camping enced pilot, and former remote Lord’s Kakadu and Arnhem Montague Island flies to Gove. at the Mornington area nurse, Helen Read has Land Safaris, NT Why here Explore NSW’s largest Wilderness camp, WA. developed close connections Sab Lord lived in Kakadu colonies of fairy penguins and Dugong Beach Resort, with more than 35 remote before it was declared a ) fur seals on this nature reserve Groote Eylandt Aboriginal communities in the national park and grew up com . with the local Aborigines. eight kilometres off the coast at Why here This new resort has a past 22 years. Today he handcrafts private Narooma. There are two options fascinating array of indigenous Essentials 08 8948 5055;

hermes adventures for an insider’s . for staying in the restored head art and tours (rock art, spear- www.didgeri.com.au look at the remarkable land- lighthouse keeper’s quarters: fishing, bush tucker) by the www scape, wildlife and rock art of a fully catered, fully guided Anindilyakwa community. the Top End. 08 8948 2200;

($1080; www.lords-safaris.com program with Conservation Former footballer Andrew western Australia Volunteers Australia or the Ettingshausen’s sports-fishing Kimberley Coastal Eyre Peninsula, Australian hermes brand-new self-catering option. operation is next door. Camp Coastal Safaris, SA from In the know This is one of the In the know Located off the east Why here Remote even by In a world first, you can swim Southern Hemisphere’s best coast of the Northern Territory, Kimberley standards, this beach with southern blue fin tuna at Port Lincoln, follow the dive locations. Groote Eylandt has only recently destination has half a dozen compass oyster trail at Coffin Bay, and Essentials www.montagueisland. opened to tourism but there gazebos, fashioned from cor- swim with wild sea lions and com.au; Conservation Volunteers is an existing infrastructure rugated iron and driftwood with dolphins in Baird Bay. “This perpalnor Australia, 03 5330 2600; www. (thanks to the BHP Billiton crushed shell floors, tucked is a remarkable combination Bradshaw art (elongated human Essentials 08 9169 1214; Karijini Eco Retreat, conservationvolunteers.com.au manganese mine on the island) amongst sandstone outcrops. of local knowledge of sea figures with elaborate decora- www.farawaybay.com.au; small Pilbara life and seafood,” says Drew that belies its remoteness. In the know Admiralty Gulf is tions). The open-air shed, with plane from Kununurra, Darwin Why here This is a brand-new bousole

. Kluska. 08 8351 7185; www. northern territory Essentials 1800 877 077; a world-class fishing spot. Rock australiancoastalsafaris.com its found-art sculptures, is the and Broome. luxury eco tent resort owned prior Bawaka Cultural www.dugongbeachresort.com. overhangs reveal mysterious site of inspired meals of spar- by the Gumala Aboriginal Experience, au; flights from Darwin on Bush Safari Company kling, fresh seafood. Mornington Corporation.

amanda camel safaris, SA Essentials Wilderness Camp, In the know Arnhem Land Vincent Aviation and Qantas- ; 0417 902 006; www. “There is one place Rex Ellis has been leading Why here Traditional owner, affiliated Airnorth. kimberleycoastalcamp.com.au; Kimberley where you stand on a precipice soo camel safaris for 33 years. Timmy Djawa Burarrwanga, has One of his most popular is small plane from Broome, Why here This is the Australian above the intersection of four fashioned a remarkable tour to through the remote parts of Kununurra or Darwin to Wildlife Conservancy’s show- gorges. The water is a remarkable jennifer share his culture on this pristine : Flinders Ranges where you Mitchell Plateau and transfer by case, a 3000-square-kilometre luminescent green, which is dif- top will see the rare yellow-footed helicopter to Admiralty Gulf. property featuring spectacular ferent to anywhere else,” rock wallabies, lizards and from gorges and tropical savannah. says Ian Carson. peregrine falcons. For the Bush Camp at Faraway For the fortunate few there Essentials 08 9425 5550; hardy there are extended Bay, Kimberley are just 10 luxury safari-style www.gumala.com.au; 1400 opposite desert expeditions and boat . trips following inland floods. Why here Cruise up King tents overlooking beautiful kilometres north of Perth. camp 08 8543 2280; George Gorge to massive twin Annie Creek. www.safarico.com.au falls cascading over magnificent In the know “We took our kids on Ningaloo Reef cliffs. Check out the dugongs, an early morning birdwatching Retreat, Exmouth Kangaluna Camp, wilderness Eyre Peninsula, SA sharks and crocs, bathe in a tour led by a young scientist Why here Snorkel with turtles, Geoff Scholz delivers the freshwater swimming hole and who showed us extremely rare kayak to the blue lagoon, and quintessential luxury Aussie even hit golf balls over the cliffs. species, such as the Gouldian from April to July, swim with the safari, offering insights into

mornington In the know On a red rock ter- Finch,” says Ian Carson. You can whale sharks, the gentle plank-

the ancient volcanic land- race above the blue waters of canoe the Dimond Gorge, take ton-eating giants of the deep. scape of the Gawler Ranges plus, says Charlie Carlow: Faraway Bay, the open-sided, a cooling dip in Sir John Gorge In the know “You walk five metres courtesy ; “Some of the best opportuni- slate-floored Eagle Lodge is and visit the remarkable falls through translucent water off a west

ties to see Australian fauna in where delicious buffet-style at the Fitzroy Bluff natural pure white-sand beach and you the wild, such as red and grey meals feature seafood or camp- amphitheatre. are on the reef,” says Simone kangaroos and echidnas.” oven roasts. Screened corru- Essentials 08 9191 7406; Carson. “And the enthusiastic

caroline 08 8680 2045; www.gawler : gated-iron cabins with simple www.australianwildlife.org; young guides take you on drift rangessafaris.com left ensuite bathrooms are open to 80 kilometres off the Gibb snorkels and explain so much

from the breezes and bird calls. River Road by 4WD. about the marine life.” ∫

110 111 here,” says Gill Bracken. station stays beach retreats In the know “You can only go Pungalina Station, Tennant Kims Beach Hideaway, about 25 kilometres an hour Creek, NT Toowoon Bay NSW with your tyres let right down,” Located in isolated, lush Kims embodies the essence says John Sullivan. “It’s easier to country (65 kilometres of a perfect beach getaway: go west to east.” from the Savannah Way by fabulous food and spacious Essentials www.parks.sa.gov.au/ 4WD) with big gorges slicing bungalows containing through the landscape, lime- everything you need. While simpson_cp/visit for informa- stone caves and crystal-clear it has evolved from a simple tion about the Desert Parks Pass swimming holes. There are camp to luxurious hideaway, and Bulletin as well as access opportunities to go barra- the Strachan family have routes and safety tips. mundi-fishing and kayaking. held true to their personal 03 9882 4236 (reservations) attention to detail since the or 08 8975 8951 (station); 1950s. 02 4332 1566; Peter Lehmann Wines, www.pungalinasafaris.com.au www.kims.com.au Barossa Valley Why here Embodying both the Bullo River Station, NT Woodwark Bay, traditions and maverick charac- Airlie Beach, QLD This cattle property (200 ter of Australia’s wine industry, kilometres from Kununurra Absolute privacy is what by 4WD) has massive wind- this luxurious beach house Peter Lehmann founded his ing rivers, gorges, wetlands, compound is all about. Six winery in 1979 to buy red wine crocs, birds, barramundi- artfully appointed thatched- grapes that were being threat- fishing, rock art, boab trees roofed huts are just part of ened by the vine pull program. and hearty country cuisine. the draw, the in-house chef Today, Peter Lehmann Wines is 08 8354 2719 (reservations) provides superb food and a great place to enjoy a bottle of or 08 9168 7375 (station); wine and there are many www.bulloriver.com playthings from jet skis to shiraz with a platter of Barossa quad bikes for guests to produce in the shade of the river Head of Bight, Essentials This area is Ooraminna Homestead, enjoy. 08 8354 4405; www. red gums. Nullarbor Plain extremely remote so it is Deep Well Station, NT outbackencounter.com In the know Seek out some of Why here The Bunda Cliffs – part only accessible by 4WD, and An authentic, 2000-square- the other distinctive Barossa of the longest line of cliffs on the weather can be highly vari- kilometre Red Centre cattle Bedarra Island Villa and station situated just south Studio, QLD winemaker characters such as earth – are among the best able. The Bunda Cliffs are on Essentials 08 9949 1776; Lombadina Aboriginal of Alice Springs. Accommoda- Near the water’s edge in Robert O’Callahan at Rockford, places in the world to see the Yalata Aboriginal land. www.ningalooreefretreat.com; Adventures has motel-style tion in spacious bush huts. the heart of a 0.8-hectare Dave Powell at Torbreck and annual migration of up to 100 To purchase permits to visit the a one-hour drive from Exmouth units, a craft shop with pearl 08 8953 0170; www.oora estate wrapping around a Charles Melton. Southern Right Whales. area stop at the White minnahomestead.com.au. palm-fringed beach, the on Yardie Creek Road to Cape and ebony jewellery and offers Essentials Off Para Road, In the know Between May and Well Ranger Station two open-plan villa and studio Range National Park. Free daily bush tucker tours, kayaking, Home Valley Station, WA . are perfect for tropical living. Tanunda; 08 8563 2100; www. October you can see mothers kilometres south of the entrance bus transfers from Exmouth. fishing charters and mud Nick Bradley has Kimberley Contemporary Hotels, 02 peterlehmannwines.com.au; and calves feeding and playing on the Head of Bight Road. library From left: droving cattle crabbing. Goombaragin Eco blood running through his 9331 2881; www.contempo- www.barossa-region.org beneath the cliffs. www.yalata.org ∫ on Bullo River Station, Kepa Kurl Eco Ventures has excellent bush and veins and has transformed raryhotels.com.au/bedarra NT; the rolling hills of photo this Aboriginal-owned prop- 8 Discovery Tours, beach tours and eco tents over- f /

the Barossa Valley, South © erty 120 kilometres from Sea Breeze 1770, QLD Esperance Australia’s premier looking the deserted coastline. Kununurra into a jewel of an A modernist beach house lung wine region. Opposite: Why here The beaches around In the know “We loved visiting experience with luxury tents combining sensational the stunning view from Esperance are some of the best Lombadina,” says Simone and huge open showers. views, high design and geoff Bedarra Island Villa and in Australia and this award- Carson, “to see the ancient 08 9161 4322; : eco-sensitivity, plus access Studio, QLD. winning eco tour company human footprints alongside www.homevalley.com.au. to a private super-yacht to explore the southern

named after the Aboriginal those of a bird-like dinosaur.” opposite Arkaba Station, . Great Barrier Reef. name for Esperance Essentials Lombadina 08 9192 Flinders Ranges, SA 08 8354 2723; prior offers insight into the indig- 4936; Goombaragin 08 9192 Surrounded by the magnifi- www.seabreeze1770.com enous population. 4717; www.waitoc.com cent Elder and Chace Ranges

and the southern wall of amanda Sanctuary Retreat at In the know Learn about hunting ; Wilpena Pound, this sheep Mission Beach, QLD and gathering bush and beach station sprawls across craggy Set on 18 hectares of rain- studio

south australia tucker, drink fresh water on the sandstone escarpments and forest, this affordable and beach, go whale-watching. Simpson Desert slate creek beds lined with and accredited eco-lodge, river red gums. Don’t miss the 700 metres from a pristine Essentials Esperance Museum Why here This ocean of sand has villa

Village, cnr Dempster and Kemp 1111 of the world’s longest ridgetop 4WD tour through beach, is one of the few some of the most rugged places to see cassowaries in island streets, Esperance; 08 9072 parallel sand dunes, underlain landscapes on earth at the wild. Cabins and huts on 1688; www.kepakurl.com.au by the Great Artesian Basin. nearby Arkaroola Wilderness stilts have views of the Coral bedarra “The 60 sensuous springs at Sanctuary. Arkaba Station, Sea. This is a perfect setting Dampier Peninsula Dalhousie Springs range from 08 8648 0004; www.arkaba for a range of yoga retreats. indigenous tours 38°C to 43°C and are sur- station.com and Arkaroola 72 Holt Road, Bingil Bay; 07 courtesy

: 4088 6064; www.sanctuary Why here Several Bardi com- rounded by paperbarks and Sanctuary, 08 8648 4848;

www.arkaroola.com.au top retreat.com.au munities share their culture waving reeds. There are heaps

and country via informal tours. of Aboriginal mythological sites from

112 113 adventure

Coorong Essentials McLaren Vale Grape, Katherine River, Gecko Why here Made famous by the Wine and Tourism, 08 8323 Canoeing, NT movie Storm Boy in the 1970s, 8999; www.mclarenvale.info; Below the famous line of 13 gorges, paddle along quiet the Coorong is home to the 40 kilometres south of Adelaide. pools, lined with paperbarks. largest permanent breeding Check out kites and kingfish- colony of Australian pelicans. ers in the early morning still- Explore this region with “the victoria ness. Great outback tucker bird man”, David Dadd who is Great Southwest The Coorong is home . and sleeping in swags. a walking encyclopedia on its Walk, Portland to the largest permanent 08 8972 2224; www.gecko henly breeding colony of canoeing.com.au geology, biology and history. Why here This 250-kilometre Australian pelicans. In the know Stay in a historic loop weaves along unspoiled gough Opposite: sleeping rough Kings Canyon Rim Walk, NT cottage at Poltalloch Station, ocean beaches, through in style in a Blue Mountains The six-kilometre, three- to susan one of South Australia’s earli- eucalypt forests, across light- luxury swag, NSW. ; four-hour Rim Walk begins est properties, located on the house-topped capes above the with a 500-step climb that locals have nicknamed . library shores of Lake Alexandrina. tallest sea cliffs in Victoria and au

. “Heart Attack Hill”. But once Essentials Coorong Nature beside the dramatic gorges of you get to the top the rewards photo com . Tours, 0428 714 793; the Glenelg, Victoria’s longest 8 f are ample: breathtaking / © Poltalloch Station, 08 8574 estuarine river. views of the gorge and a maze In the know Point Hicks of beehive sandstone domes. 0043; www.poltalloch.com; One of the most lung Watarrka National Park indigenous activities at Camp popular sections of the walk Lighthouse, the Southern Hemisphere. is located about 450km sallyberesford . geoff Coorong, 08 8575 1557 and is along Cape Bridgewater. Croagingalong Essentials 03 5158 4268; : south-west of Alice Springs. eft www

Coorong Wilderness Lodge, You’ll see spectacular blow- National Park www.pointhicks.com.au; L ; The brand-new Kings Canyon top

08 8575 6001. holes, a petrified forest of Why here Stay in one of the two 45-minute drive along dirt Wilderness Lodge offers Moonah trees, freshwater adjoining 1890s assistant light- roads from Cann River. deluxe eco tents at nearby from antiques

McLaren Vale springs, and look out over house keepers’ cottages above Kings Creek Station. 03 9277 8499; Why here Cape Otway Centre Enjoy the best of all Australia’s largest permanent the pink granite headland first www.aptouring.com.au worlds in this haven on the fur seal colony from the sighted by Captain Cook’s lieu- for Conservation opposite beresford

Fleurieu Peninsula where soaring cliffs. tenant, Zachary Hicks, in 1770. Ecology Blue Mountains stay in sally voluptuous hills covered with Essentials Portland Visitor Infor- In the know Climb the spiral Why here This post and beam a luxury swag, NSW Fly in by helicopter from grapevines, olive and almond mation Centre, 03 5523 2671; staircase of the tallest light- mud-brick guest house is from

LUXURY SWAGS. Sydney and Mark Tickner groves meander down to a www.visitdiscoverycoast.com. house in mainland Australia designed using the latest pas- almost imperceptible footprint. Essentials 105 Latrobe Parade, In the know “The Lamington lure will take you on a bevy of ad- pristine coastline of white sandy Stay at Cockles on the Beach for a spectacular view over the sive solar technology to leave an ventures that might include Help monitor the wildlife or do Dromana; 03 5984 7321 National Park has some of beaches on Gulf St. Vincent. beach house, 03 5529 5206 12-kilometre-long West Beach. bushwalking and fly fishing, part of the Great Ocean Walk. (shop); 03 5984 7318 (dining); the country’s best walking fishing mountains

In the know Foodies will discover or Seaview Lodge, 03 5526 Sandboard the highest dunes in , sleeping each night under the In the know Observe kangaroos, www.diggers.com.au tracks,” says Barry Davies. blue

prior stars in a luxury swag. an embarrassment of riches 7276, at Bridgewater Bay. koalas and other indigenous ani- “The Coomera Falls track is Wilderness Australia, 02 here: visit Willunga Farmers’ mals as you walk through their Merrindie Mountain one of the great rainforest walks 9571 6677; www.wilderness courtesy Market on Saturday, Fino amanda australia.com.au natural habitat of manna gums, Retreat, Mansfield in Australia.” restaurant, Coriole Vineyards, messmate and maleuluca. Why here Explore the high Essentials Two hours’ drive south the Victory Hotel and the Star Ballooning Canberra, ACT Essentials Cape Otway Light- country in style, whether it is on of Brisbane. New eco-village of Greece, a colourful 1950s The atmospheric conditions house Road, 03 5237 9297; horseback, by 4WD, and spa at O’Reilly’s Rainforest beach shack offering fresh and variety of landing sites www.capeotwaycentre.com.au or bushwalking. Retreat, 07 5502 4911; www. make Canberra the perfect seafood as well as the ultimate ballooning spot. What more In the know Relax in your hill-top oreillys.com.au; Binna Burra in beachfront views. peaceful way to view Austral- Heronswood, chalet on more than 100 hec- Mountain Lodge has more ia’s carefully planned capital Mornington Peninsula tares with a trout-filled dam. traditional digs plus inspiring built on sheep paddocks 93 Why here Explore five acres of Essentials 08 8354 4405; health spa. 07 5533 3622; years ago? 02 6285 1540; “edible landscape” cottage www.outbackencounter.com.au www.binnaburralodge.com.au www.canberraballoons.com.au gardens overflowing with High Country Horseriding, VIC heirloom vegetables, fruit and South Long Island No-nonsense horsewoman flowers surrounding historic queensland Nature Lodge, Helen Packer offers full-day Heronswood House. Then tuck Gold Coast Whitsundays high country rides, multi- into a flavourful “fork-to-fork” Hinterland Great Why here This eco-escape at day horse safaris with fully experience that champions the Walk secluded rainforest-encircled equipped campsites and weekend adventures. lowest food miles possible. Why here Experience dramatic Paradise Bay offers nine luxuri- Stay at Pretty Willows Farm in In the know Pick up a couple of waterfalls, panoramic lookouts, ous, renovated bungalows. the hidden Bundarrah River practical tips from the resident melodious bowerbirds and In the know The resort supplies Valley near Anglers’ Rest in Digger’s Club gardeners about lyrebirds and the world’s largest its own solar energy and water East Gippsland. 03 5159 creating mini plots where you subtropical rainforest plus ex- and manages all waste, but it 7241; www.horsetreks.com. can grow enough vegetables to tensive temperate rainforests of doesn’t skimp on luxuries. feed a family of four. soaring Antarctic beech. Access is by helicopter and ∫

114 115 landmarks

Shark Bay, WA Australia’s westernmost point is a major dugong habitat. At Hamelin Bay you can see the most extensive examples of marine stroma- tolites in the world. “They might be ugly but they are the oldest form of life on earth,” says Simone Carson. www.sharkbay.asn.au.

Wilsons Promontory, VIC The Prom has something for everyone: a campground at Tidal River with eco cabins, motel units, even an open-air cinema. But the scenery is the main attraction: wide, sweeping beaches, granite library headlands, and rainforest. www.parkweb.vic.gov.au. photo

Mitchell Falls, WA It’s worth making the effort to drive and do the stun- ning bushwalk to the falls. “The best option is to walk , $305; 02 9235 1777;

co about one-and-a-half hours

& down to the falls and take a helicopter back to the camp- tiffany ground,” says John Sullivan. Drysdale River Station, 08 from 9161 4326; www.drysdale you sail all over the Whitsundays Carnarvon Gorge stunning views above the rain- river.com.au has fuel, ac- Essentials Camping permit knife

in a private catamaran. Check Why here Gouged from the forest to the Coral Sea. commodation and meals. required. Book by phone 13 army out the fabulous aboriginal art. surrounding landscape, the In the know Owned by a French 13 04 or via the internet up Lord Howe Island, NSW

Essentials: 07 4946 9777; 16,000-hectare Carnarvon couple, Carmen Fabro and steel to 11 months in advance with from the initials of French “You must come here for www.southlongisland.com Gorge is a lush oasis abounding Gilles Germain, who with prior the pure beauty and unique Queensland Parks and Wildlife, botanist Albert de Lestang who in birdlife. Cabbage tree palms, arrangement, offer delectable birdlife,” says Carlow. (www.epa.qld.gov.au/parks/, developed an experimental gar- spacious balcony, but be sure stainless Haggerstone Island, grass trees, cycads and ferns table d’hôte meals. , Cycling is the preferred form includes details on information den in the 1930s and shipped and try the rainforest walks and of transport on this World

northern Great line the main gorge beneath Essentials 13 Cape Tribulation prior packs and boat charters from seeds to botanic gardens all sample Laotian delicacies in the

The Daintree River, Barrier Reef sandstone cliffs, while remnant Road, Daintree; 07 4098 9277; Heritage island. Relax in Gladstone). The site is closed over the world,” adds Davies. retreat’s restaurant. Cape Tribulation luxury at Capella Lodge, Why here The ultimate Robinson- rainforest flourishes in the shel- www.cockatoohillretreat.com.au from October to Easter to Essentials www.epa.qld.gov. Essentials Land Road, Atherton National Park. Opposite, amanda : check out the rainforest, from left: rugging up for Crusoe island, not far from the tered side gorges. seashore or have Jack Shick protect nesting seabirds and au, 340 kilometres north-west Tablelands; 07 4096 8360; left a walk along Wilsons tip of Cape York, where Anna In the know “You must do the Masthead Island, guide you up Mt Gower. turtle hatchlings. of Mt Isa (via Riversleigh) on www.rosegums.com.au, Promontory, VIC; from and Roy Turner have crafted two Moss Garden Walk and Ward’s Capricornia 02 6563 2114; www.lord mainly unsealed roads. Air- Shark Bay, WA. round huts with sundecks and Canyon Walk [home to the National Park howeisland.info; Capella Lawn Hill Gorge strip at Adel’s Grove, 07 4748 Undara Volcanic Lodge; 02 9918 4355; slate bathrooms and a rustic world’s largest fern],” according Why here One of the most pris- Why here “In the middle of 5502; www.adelsgrove.com.au. National Park opposite . www.capellalodge.com.au

wa Why here beach shack with outdoor bath- to Barry Davies. tine coral cays in the southern savannah country, Lawn Hill Walk in the path of a room amidst the coconut palms. Essentials Carnarvon Gorge Great Barrier Reef, with an Mount Kosciuszko, NSW Gorge, filled with the emerald Rose Gums Wilderness volcano. “This park is so unusual Guests gather for gourmet is located between Roma and untouched pisonia forest and This UNESCO Biosphere waters of Lawn Hill Creek, is Retreat because it contains the remains tourism

feasts straight from the sea Emerald. Stay at the Carnarvon a massive reef, this is also an Reserve has six wilderness surrounded by lush vegetation Why here Jon and Peta Nott of the Earth’s longest flow of lava areas with lakes, wildflowers, and the garden in the soaring Gorge Wilderness Lodge, 07 important rookery for logger- that attracts incredible bird- bought a dairy farm in the hills originating from a single vol- historic huts, and Australia’s courtesy main pavilion. 4984 4503; www.carnarvon- head turtles. ; highest mountain. Take a life such as crimson finches, above Cairns in 1994 and cano,” says Barry Davies. Caves In the know Roy takes guests gorge.com or at the Takarakka In the know Even though it is a guided walk and catered lorikeets, parrots and the rare planted 14,000 native trees to within this lava tube are fertile

victoria camping experience to Blue snorkelling around historic Bush Resort, 07 4984 4535; major undertaking bringing in purple-crowned fairy wren,” return the 145-hectare prop- pockets in which rainforest plant shipwrecks, swimming in lakes www.takarakka.com.au water, tents, stove and food, it Lake and Kosciuszko’s peak. says Barry Davies. “There erty to its natural state. Now you and animal species thrive. Kosciuszko Alpine Guided perched in mainland sand is one of the greatest things to are good walking tracks and can stay in hand-crafted pole In the know Stay in a turn-of-the- tourism Walks, Lake Crackenback Cockatoo Hill Retreat, dunes and fishing for tuna, coral experience wilderness camping Resort, 1650 Alpine Way, you can also rent canoes. Be and timber treehouses with century railway carriage at the trout and barramundi. Daintree on a tropical island. Because Crackenback; 02 6451 careful not to disturb any fresh- floor-to-ceiling windows and Undara Lava Lodge. courtesy Essentials 07 4060 3413; Why here Sleep tight in a hand- there is no lagoon you have to : 3000; www.novotel water crocodiles.” cathedral ceilings. Essentials 07 4097 1900;

left lakecrackenback.com.au www.haggerstoneisland.com; crafted king-sized timber bed in time your arrival and departure In the know “A magic place to In the know You will hear many of www.undara.com.au; 300 kilo- air charter from Cairns. a thatched-roof treehouse with for high tide. stay is Adel’s Grove, named the 160 bird species from your metres south-west of Cairns. π from

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