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The Ships' Names of Muscat Bay

Germana Graziosi Costa

Approaching Muscat from the sea, the circle of From this work, the names in categories a, b and c barren rocks opens to show a striking vision of totalled 202 and, for 107 of these were found some hundreds of white names painted on the cliffs. historic data. Unfortunately, nothing can be These are the names of ships which over the done for the names in the other categories which years visited the port of Muscat; their presence are beyond any identification. contributes to the unique charm of the place and The names are painted in white, with one case represents an extraordinary historic document: a only in two colours (Juwara). Three flags are monumental history book quoting not the recognisable: British, American and of the Hansa events, but the actual people who made them'. Line. In the list of the names it is mentioned The wish of H.M. Sultan Qaboos bin Said to where they appear. No chronological order is have the ships' names of Muscat bay studied and shown in the distribution of the names which possibly restored has inspired this research. were painted at random on the rocks; the only Preliminary to the study of the preservation or thing which can be noted is that the oldest names restoration of the names, a general survey of the are found on the eastern side, both towards the bay and a complete photographic record open sea and the inside of the bay. appeared necessary. This task was fulfilled under The oldest date that we can clearly read is 1876 the supervision of Dr. P. Costa, by photographer with the names HMS Teazer. Another date 18.4 Ennio Vicario, using boat and helicopter goes with the name Arabia. The number missing supplied by the Sultan of Oman's Navy and could be reconstructed as 7 because a vertical Royal Oman Police. stroke seems preserved, and an ss Arabia was built The study of the photographic records showed for the British India Steam Navigation Company that the names can be divided in 6 categories: in 1863, so that a visit of the ship in 1874 is a — names clearly readable, reasonably acceptable. b — names only partly preserved, There are also a number of names without c — names broken into two lines (e.g. date, but known to belong to ships in service VALCO towards the end of the century: ss Hindustan, built UR in 1869; ss Nubia, was built in 1870; ss Simla, built in which reads VALCOUR) 1871; ss Ethiopia, built in 1871, and HMS Lynx in d — names superimposed, service in the Gulf patrol in 1872-73. e — names faded, There is a widely spread belief that HMS Sea- f — names faded and dates clearly preserved. horse on which Nelson was serving as midship- At this point the research switched to the study man, painted the name in Muscat in 1775 on her of historic documents which made possible com- way from India to England. During our survey, pletion of some of the names in category (b) and such a name was not found. It should be kept in an understanding of the names in category (c). mind however that in the history of the British

105 FIGURE 1. Map ofMuscatBay.Hatchingindicatesareaswheremainconcentration written names occurs.

V1SOD THE SHIPS' NAMES OF MUSCAT BAY

Navy, there are many ships of this name, so that effective involvement of European countries in its occurrence without a date would be useless to the development of this region. identify Nelson's ship, and consequently to Oman, which in the face of the Portuguese, establish a datum relevant to the question of the Dutch and British East India Co., had the chronology of the tradition of painting ships' resources and the know-how to confront their names in the bay. naval competition, could not adapt to the new The problem of names not accompanied by a situation and entered a period of economic date and used for more than one ship at different stagnation. times occurs more than once; when possible, the Muscat ceased to be an active centre of ship has been tentatively identified on the base of traditional trade, and became a spectator of the a general historical background. When historical political and commercial activity going on in the reference is not available, all the ships bearing the Indian Ocean. In this atmosphere the first ships' same name have been listed. names were painted on the rocks of its bay with a The dates seem thus to indicate that the fashion sort of feeling of discovery of a part of the world of leaving a visiting card when anchoring off until then largely dominated by the Arabs. Muscat started around the seventies and nothing Some of the oldest names found on the rocks proves an earlier date for this practice. Also the belonged to merchant ships of the Peninsular and descriptions of Muscat in the last century confirm Oriental Co. and British India Steam Navigation this hypothesis. Co., known respectively as P & 0 and BI. In 1874, S. B. Miles, who was political agent in Muscat when the Arabia, which was part of the BI fleet, between 1872 and 1887, does not mention any visited Muscat, BI was already an established names of ships in the Bay; T. Bent who visited enterprise. Muscat in 1889 and 1890 does not record any In 1847, William Mackinnon from Scotland painting either, but by 1925 the names had reached entered in partnership with Robert Mackenzie, a an impressive number because B. Thomas says friend already engaged in commercial activity in `the cliffs are emblazoned with ships' names'. India. They raised funds to establish the Calcutta The XIX C. represents a period of tensions in Rangoon Steam Line with a mail contract for that the relations between Europe and the Orient. region. After this first success they planned a line Napoleon's Egyptian campaign was the spark to touch small ports from Calcutta to Karachi via that revived the interest of Europe in this part of Ceylon. Having obtained a contract for a the world but the Gulf was not to be involved in fortnightly mail service to Karachi and 8 ships a international political activities for another 50 year to the Gulf for the same purpose, a new years. company was registered in Scotland in 1862 as the Europe, in the meantime, experienced a British India Steam Navigation Co. Since then technological revolution which deeply affected the line prospered along with the growth of the her practical life and politics. Eastern trade; it played a role comparable to that The introduction of steam navigation, which of the East India Company in establishing British in the forties, became of general use, brought a interests in the Indian Ocean, it created modern total change in the way communications were trade in the Gulf and opened rapid communica- organized. The word 'liner' came into use; tions with East Africa and Australia. meaning a ship of a line which works according The Peninsular and Oriental Company is to schedules. As a result, there was more comfort slightly older. Founded in 1840, it established for the passengers, and big changes in the regular communications from England to organisation of trade were made. Alexandria; in 1844 it extended its service from The rapid advances made towards the end of Suez to India connecting the two sections by the XIX C. by telegraphic communications had railroad. The opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 also a particularly significant effect on the Indian disrupted this organization but the company Ocean, making possible a more direct and eventually adapted to the new situation and in

107 G. G. COSTA fact enlarged and improved its activities. The Telegraph Department. He started the opera- ship-building of these years had to take into tions from Karachi in January 1864 and by March consideration not only new technical require- 1864 had reached Bushihr. From Bushihr the cable ments for the passage through the canal, but also was taken to the Shatt al Arab where lay the most the necessity of saving fuel. The maintenance of difficult stretch; because of the swampy nature of coal depots and supply was always a heavy the coast the cable had to be partly dragged by burden. An average of170 ships for example were hand as far as possible inland and then a ditch was chartered by the P & 0 every year to carry coal to dug in the mud to receive it. the Eastern depots (after 1877 Muscat was one of In April 1864, communications were officially them) and 2 companies' sailing ships were opened between Fao and India. Only in 1901 was constantly employed to carry machinery and Muscat, at the pressing request of the Sultan and stores. the merchant community, eventually connected 1874 was an important year in the history of the by direct line to Jashk. mail service in the Gulf. The first cable proved very efficient and was During the XIX C. the communications still in good condition 20 years later. In January between India and Europe had become more and 1865, P. Stewart died in Constantinople and the more difficult. Letters for India from Baghdad, Indo-European department named one of its new Basra or Bushihr were sent to Damascus then ships in memory of its first director and his Egypt and were arriving via the Red Sea. Only achievements. The ship Patrick Stewart, built in occasionally an ship coming from 1878 visited Muscat in the same year. In 1885, she the Gulf to Bombay gave the opportunity of was the pilot ship of the cable laying steamers quicker communication, but British merchant replacing some sections of the Gulf cable between ships, because of the threat of pirates, were rarely Jishk and Bushihr. seen in the Gulf. The situation started changing in The name of the Patrick Stewart is recorded 1862 when the BI got a contract for 8 ships a year twice on the cliffs of Muscat. to the Gulf and since then the mail service has im- A number of other names were written on the proved constantly. In 1868 it became fortnightly, cliffs before the end of the century: in 1874 weekly, and in 1903 the BI established a HMS Teazer 1876-77-78-79 double mail service 'line no.11' slow and 'line HMS Woodlark 1880-81-82-83-84 no.12' fast connecting Bombay and Karachi to Nijni Novgorod 1893 Basra, both touching at Muscat. HMS Bramble, The necessity for fast communications also HMS Sphinx, prompted the study of a much more ambitious HMS Lynx, project: the connection of India to Europe by all connected to important political events of the telegraphic line. Gulf and Oman in this period. The project required lengthy diplomatic dis- In 1863, the East India Company which had cussions between Britain, Turkey, and Iran but become almost an independent political power by 1863, the Turkish and Persian sections were was abolished. During its last years and before the operating and needed only to be connected to the new organisation of the Government of India Indian system in order to acquire a more general took place, there was a sort of political vacuum in importance. This connection required the laying the Gulf which led to renewed piratical activities of a cable from Karachi to Fao and, given the and a general instability. European powers busy technical knowledge of the time, represented the studying better communications between the most difficult and challenging part of the entire Turkish Empire and Europe, naturally turned project. In 1862, the general direction of the works their attention to the Red Sea and the Gulf. France was given to a young officer of the Bengal revived the project of the Suez Canal and Engineers, Lieut. Col. Patrick Stewart who implemented it, although opposed by Britain at became the first director of the Indo-European that time afraid to open the Indian Ocean to the

108 THE SHIPS' NAMES OF MUSCAT BAY

influence of other countries. Britain at the same However shortly afterwards the new French time was concentrating on organising her own minister of foreign affairs, Theophile Delcasse, communications in the public and private sector convinced that France should concern herself (telegraph, P & 0, BI). The result was that by more with continental policy by countering the 1870, her interests in the Gulf were well growing power of Germany, backed down: the established and a greater involvement replaced concession of Bandar Jissa was withdrawn and a the non-intervention policy of the preceding major confrontation avoided. Tension between years. This attitude pushed, of course, other the two countries was revived a few years later by countries to challenge it and the Gulf thus became the 'French flag' question. The authorisation to an intimate part of the European system of use the French flag was given without much alliances. control to Omani ships (mainly from Sur) which, By 1881 the Turkish Empire occupied the coast in this way, could escape the search for illegal car- of Arabia from al-Hasa to Doha and , but goes of slaves and arms by British ships. The Britain continued to patrol the coastal waters and issue was referred to The Hague tribunal and her interest concentrated on protecting her finally settled in 1905. marine space from anything which was a threat At the same time Germany was building up its to her communications. In this sense, Britain power mainly through economic penetration of found herself involved in the internal policy of the Middle East and Gulf. In 1881 was founded the the Gulf, particularly that of Oman which was Hansa steam company based in Bremen which the only organized state in Arabia. for 99 years was to serve the German trade in the This involvement was achieved through the East. Hansa formed the 'Asiatic Line' to serve the system of the residency: the resident in Bushihr, East Coast of India-Colombo-Calcutta and theoretically an ambassador with primarily com- started this operation with 16 steamers in January mercial concerns, slowly took on political duties 1889, and in 1920 opened the service. and administered British power. On him de- The Berlin-Baghdad railway (started in 1903), pended all the British representatives including which caused extremely complicated diplomatic the agency of Muscat founded in 1798. manoeuvres between Germany, France, Russia After the opening of the Suez Canal, France and Britain, was also a key feature in this project which between 1885 and 1896 acquired Madagas- of economic growth. With its branch lines, it was car, Somaliland, Siam and Indochina had every devised to put German industry within easy interest in detaching Oman from the British reach of the Middle East. The obvious plan of sphere of influence. extending the railroad to the Shatt al-Arab In 1894, there arrived in Muscat an enterprising prompted a firmer stand by Britain in Kuwait personality with the position of vice-consul and the project was successfully stopped. named Paul Ottavi who almost succeeded in sub- Russia was posing serious threats to Britain stituting France as the major supporter and ally of mainly in Iran and Central Asia, but tried also, on Sultan Faysal. an understanding with France, to establish some In March 1898, during the visit of the French influence in the Gulf and Oman. In 1893, the Nijni gunboat Gabes (the name is unfortunately not on Novgorod came to Muscat and recorded the visit the rocks)3 Ottavi obtained from the Sultan the by painting its name in clear letters. The officers concession for a coaling station in Bandar Jissa, a had meetings with the Sultan, but nothing sheltered and easily defensible cove a few miles practical came out of these contacts. south of Muscat. This move was seen as a serious A later attempt by Russia to open a consulate in threat to British imperial power and a very strong Muscat was unsuccessful, but consulates were position was taken with the Sultan to have the opened in Bushihr, Bandar Abbas, Muham- concession withdrawn by Lord Curzon, who had marah, Baghdad and in Seistan. just arrived to take up the post of Viceroy of In 1901, Russia tried also to run a steamer line India. from Odessa touching the Gulf ports, but the

109 G. G. COSTA

service was almost immediately discontinued. Omani vessels, but it was to take many years At the beginning of this century, Britain had before the trade was actually extinguished. thus achieved total supremacy in the area which As early as 1898, Britain started efforts to was to go unchallenged until World War II. Of regulate the traffic of arms. This traffic had greatly major importance for the exercise of this expanded over the years and was favourably supremacy was the constant patrolling of the regarded in Muscat as a good source of revenue. seas, effected by ships and in smaller The guns were shipped from Belgium, England measure by the Royal Indian Marine. HMS Lynx and a small number from France; according to the was on duty in the Gulf in 1871-72 and is perhaps Indian authorities, 60% was transhipped from one of the oldest ships to paint its name in the bay Muscat to Persia, 25% to Turkish Arabia and 15% of Muscat, but unfortunately no date goes with to non-Turkish Arabia. it. The tribal uprising on the Indo-Afghan bor- HMS Teazer and HMS Woodlark, as their dates ders in 1897 showed too late the importance of show, were regular visitors to Muscat. HMS keeping this trade in check and British ships by Teazer was commissioned in 1875 for service on agreements with the Sultan and the Persian the East Indies Station. Most of her time was government started searching for illegal cargoes. spent in the Persian Gulf Division, with head- This control was to go on well into the XX C. quarters at Bushihr. Her duties were the Together with HMS Sphinx was built RIMS prevention of hostilities and the suppression of Lawrence, a fast boat steaming at 12 knots. Ross, the slave trade. HMS Woodlark commissioned for during his residency in Bushihr, obtained its service in the East Indies Station in 1880, joined permanent assignment to the agency and its the Persian gulf division with the same duties as speed was valuable for supervision of the Gulf. HMS Teazer. During 1884, she was involved in The ship left her name twice on the rocks of the the Sudan conflict but by the end of the year was Bay. again in Muscat; in 1885, she was sent to Rangoon Unfortunately many names of this period are and took part in the Burmese War. HMS Sphinx, not accompanied by dates and we can only rely built in 1884 and from 1895 in permanent service in on the period of the ship's service to guess their the Gulf, and HMS Bramble were on duty in the visit to Muscat. We know for example that ss Indian Ocean with the same aim. Simla and ss Rome (belonging to P & 0) and HMS Although on occasions the presence of these Perseus (in the Gulf Patrol) were in use until the ships helped the sultans of Muscat against beginning of 1900. attackers from the interior (like HMS Teazer and RIMS Investigator (the name is written 3 times), HMS Bramble) the main concern of Britain was was a survey ship employed in the Gulf in 1901-2. the enforcement of treaties against the slave and Like the Bombay Marine of the East India arms trade. The source of the slaves imported Company, the Royal Indian Marine had not only into the Gulf was East Africa. fighting but also scientific assignments. Before The progress in suppressing this trade was the end of the XVIII C. scientific surveys of the slow because agreements had to be signed with coasts started with the purpose of collecting data individual rulers, not really very willing to for sailing charts (the first survey of the Gulf was enforce them, and sometimes also helped by made in 1820), they continued for guiding the European powers to avoid them. In 1845 a laying of the telegraph cables and to get a better previous agreement with Sultan Said was knowledge of the people living in the coastal changed and the Sultan undertook to prohibit countries. under severe penalties the export of slaves from In 1902 Muscat was visited by the USS Isla de his African dominions and to use his influence Luzon on her way home from the Philippines. It with all the chiefs of Arabia. By this agreement, was the first American Navy ship to leave her ships of the Royal Navy, and until 1863, of name on the cliffs. Few American merchant ships Bombay Marine, were also authorized to search came to Muscat in the last 25 years of the XIX C.

110 THE SHIPS' NAMES OF MUSCAT BAY

(and no name is identifiable) although a treaty of converted into hospital ships. Varsova, Ellora and friendship and commerce had been negotiated in Vita of the BI were three hospital ships: they 1833 by E. Roberts, Plenipotentiary for U.S. signed their names in Muscat unfortunately followed in 1840 by the voyage of the Sultana to without leaving a date, but probably they came New York conducted by Ahmed bin Na'man, on the passage India-Muscat as cargo and the special envoy of Sultan Said. passenger ships before the beginning of the war. The USS Brooklin could also have come in this HMS Hogue also came to Muscat before the war year to Muscat. She was flagship of the Asiatic and during the conflict was sunk by enemy Squadron between 1900 and 1902 and in this year action. she sailed back to New York via the Suez Canal. Immediately after the war, in 1920, the Rheinfels The visit paid by Lord Curzon, Viceroy of painted her name on the rocks. This cargo liner India, in 1903 to Muscat and the Gulf was a sort of belonging to the Hansa Line was captured by public, unilateral declaration of the supremacy of Britain in Bombay in 1914, at the very beginning Britain. HMS Hardinge with Lord Curzon left of the war. She was requisitioned by the from Karachi on the 16 November, 1903. She was Admiralty and in 1920 transferred to the Secretary accompanied by other ships among them HMS of State for India; she was renamed only in 1922. Fox. The name Fox is found on the rocks, but we Despite the stress and the dificulties of are not certain that the ship signed her name on the years between the two wars, the two this occasion, because she was for many years in companies concentrated on enlarging their fleet, the Persian Gulf service. RIMS Lawrence with the making constant improvements to their Resident in Bushihr was also waiting in Muscat passenger ships. for the official reception. The name HMS In the Indian Ocean British Navy ships went Hardinge unfortunately does not appear on the back to regular patrol. rocks to commemorate this event. During the HMS Crocus was refitted after the war and in years 1904-14 the Entente Cordiale reached by January 1921 was commissioned for service on the France and England is reflected in an increasing East Indies Station, Persian Division and in the calm also in the Indian Ocean. For the last time same year left her name on the cliffs of Muscat HMS Fox intervened to help Sultan Taimur, bay; she came several more times (1925-27-28-30) who was pressed by tribesmen, driving them out until 1930 when she was paid off at Bombay and of Barka and Quriyat (with HMS Dartmouth, was put up for sale. HMS Ormonde was employed name not recognised). But by 1915, Muscat was as a survey ship between 1924 and 1937 and during ready to defend itself with the help of Anglo- this time must have come to Muscat to continue Indian soldiers while Britain and Europe were the long established tradition of marine surveys. deeply involved in the events of . HMS Ford was in service between 1918 and 1928; In 1914, the P & 0 and BI line merged into one RN Calabria (service 1895 and 1923) came perhaps company in a moment of very successful activity in connection with an agreement signed by for both of them: the P & 0 mail services went Sultan Faysal in October 1903 which authorised through the Suez Canal and then onto Ceylon, British and Italian warships to search Muscat Calcutta, Sydney, Yokohama, and BI had 123 vessels either in territorial waters or on the high cargo and passenger ships covering the whole seas if they were suspected of taking arms to the Indian Ocean, and a large part of the Pacific. Somali Coast. The First World War involved both lines and For the Sultanate, these years on the whole during the four years it lasted 120 ships were were relatively quiet. The government succeeded taking their share in the fighting. BI had in building up a certain efficiency: many old transported troops for all the conflicts from the forms of the administration were kept but a deep Abyssinian war (1857-63) to the Sudan war in 1898. re-organisation took place and slowly Muscat The P & 0 and BI ships were requested to began to take a more direct role in the carry troops, supplies, animals and some were administration of the country. After the treaty of

111 G. G. COSTA

Seeb, although some parts of the country were utmost and was able to reach Falmouth safely in still governed through a tribal system, in fact the 48 hours. policies decided in Muscat were carried on. ss Nalgora, a cargo vessel plying between This stability was threatened again in the England and Bombay was struck by two thirties by the Great Depression, which severely torpedoes in January 1942 off the Cape of Good affected Oman's economy. Hope. Between the two wars, merchant ships con- The ss Chantala in service in the Mediterranean tinued to come regularly. Unfortunately only a was sunk in the harbour of Tobruk in 1942. few names from this period can be identified: ss Vita built as a mail and passenger ship Kohistan (1924?), Khuzistan, which came several continued her service from Bombay to Basra- times in 29-30-31-39 and the ships of the BI. The until May 1940, when she was fitted as a hospital Nalgora, Sirdhana (if the name belongs to the first ship. She remained in the Eastern waters for one ship of this name) Chantala, Bankura, which was year and then was sent to the Mediterranean to be sunk during World War II came to Muscat where she took wounded from Tobruk to Haifa. during the thirties in still peaceful years. In April 1941, leaving Tobruk, she was attacked Until the outbreak of the war, the BI was by dive-bombers. Under the cover of darkness, operating 22 regular services carrying passengers her 430 patients were safely transferred to another and cargo. Then again her ships were involved ship by the light of candles. She was then repaired in the war although merchant ships were by and served as a hospital ship based in Aden. then unsuitable for military operations because ss Bankura (the first with this name) took part in they were too light to withstand gunfire and were the transport of troops to Kisimayu in Somalia in an easy target for enemy attackers being well out action against Italy, and kept carrying stores and of the water. Some ships, the majority, con- supplies from Mombasa and the Somali coast tinued to carry passengers and cargo under the until she was sunk. general control of the Ministry of War Trans- ss Mulbera was also used as troop carrier port, others were taken over by the Royal Navy between India and East Africa. as troop carriers and hospital ships. By the end of the war in 1945, 51 ships of the BI Here are recorded only the BI ships which had been lost, but the Company was ready to before or after the war came to Muscat. start rebuilding her fleet. Three new motor ships The ss Barpeta was the first to come indirectly were built immediately for the Bombay Persian involved in the war, because on her way to Gulf service: of these Dumra, which replaced the Muscat in September 1939, she was asked to ship lost during the war, and Du'arka which was rescue the crew of a RAF plane that had landed in still in use as a passenger ship between Muscat an unknown area of the Gulf on its way to and India until 1982, left their names on the cliffs. Karachi. The Barpeta was able to rescue the 4 men A new Sirdhana was commissioned for the who were safely taken to Muscat. Later and until Calcutta-Far East and 19 new cargo ships, of the end of the war, this small passenger liner was which one named Urlana can be identified on the taken over by the Military Stores Service. rocks. The programme of reconstruction went The ss Sirdhana (the first of that name) was together with the renewal of trading activity: caught by the war in Singapore where she sank Muscat was visited since 1945 at regular times by a on a mine. number of BI ships of which we recognize the In June 1940, when France collapsed under the names Manora, Mervada,Jelunga (1960) and Warora invasion of German troops, the ss Madura, a (1963). Old lines reopened operations and new passenger ship usually on the East African run ones started up business. The Hansa line which was diverted to Bordeaux where she took on 1300 found herself practically destroyed at the end of refugees, mainly British citizens leaving Belgium the war rebuilt her fleet and the Crostafels (1954), and France. The ship, which had accommodation Rheinfels (1969), Birkenfels and Argenfels stopped at for 190 passengers, stretched her resources to the Muscat to load dry fish.

112 THE SHIPS' NAMES OF MUSCAT BAY

Two new P & 0 ships, Strathmay and LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS Strathlomond, painted their names. The second came in 1956 and 1977 and left the name on the BI British India Steam Navigation Co. cliffs of Mina Qaboos. The new habit does not BMS seem to have taken over. The Danish line Maersk HMPS His/Her Majesty's Pakistan Ship during the fifties, sent regular ships on their way HMS His/Her Majesty's Ship back from the Far East: at least two names belong HMY Her Majesty's Yacht to this line Lars and Ellen. The Strick line also INS Indian Navy Ship came regularly and some ships recorded their MS Motor Ship name: Sharistan, Tangistan, Kohistan, Baluchistan, PNS Ship Baharistan. P & 0 Peninsular and Oriental Steam After 1920, the number of commercial lines Navigation Co. having business in the Sultanate increased RIMS Royal Indian Marine Ship enormously, but they ceased to come in at RN Regia Nave (Italy) Muscat which is now used exclusively by naval ROK Navy Korean Navy vessels, while all other traffic is handled in Mina SS Steam Ship Qaboos, a modern port completed in 1974. USS United States Ship At the beginning of the 1950's the political situa- tion in the Indian Ocean changed completely. Britain ceased to have a direct involvement in the LIST OF THE SHIPS' NAMES region, and the discovery of oil added another economic and political perspective to this part of A.B. ALI RAH the world. ABOWA Between 1950 and 1970, many names were left 'ABR: on the cliffs. The friendly relations of Oman with In Arabic neighbouring countries and other powers are HMS ACTIVE: reflected by the diversity of names and the The name was written either by: numerous British, American, French, Pakistani 0 Iron Corvette, built 1869, sold 1906 and Indian Naval visits to the capital. 2) Cruiser, built 1911, sold 1920 Not to be forgotten is the name Relume. Two 3) Destroyer, built 1929, sold 1947 ships with this name have been used for the Also 8 hired vessels have this name. maintenance of lighthouses in the Gulf and Gulf ALA VI 1937 of Oman. The first was in service between 1952 and 1979 when a second Relume replaced her. HMS ANDROMEDA 1970: The maintenance of lighthouses in this region Visits: 30.4.70 to Muscat started just before World War I and a first light 3.11.72 to Muscat was placed in Muscat in February 1926 and is still 7.11.72 to Muscat visible on the rocks of the Bay. A more modern HMS APOLLO 73: one was installed in December 1960. Visit: 4.6.73 The last name that seems appropriate to record The name appears 3 times. is the Shabab Oman (Youth of0man). HMS APPLETON Nov. 1964: The ship was built in Scotland in 1971, sailed to Visits: 25.11.64 to Muscat Oman in 1978 and since 1st April 1980 has 3.10.65 to Muscat belonged to the Sultan of Oman's Navy. It is 14.5.67 to Gulf of Oman now used as training ship for young cadets, and is 29.5.67 to Gulf of Oman a reminder to the young generation of Omanis of 3.7.67 to Gulf of Oman their long and eventful participation in the 10.6.68 to Muscat history of the Indian Ocean. 14.1.69 to Muscat

113 G. G. COSTA

SS ARABIA 18.4: BHAIRAB: Accompanied by the name of the Master The name appears twice. N. S.T. Hay. Date not clearly readable, could BIRKENFELS: be reconstructed as 1874. BI. built 1863 — Hansa Line — built 1951, sank 1966 after disposed of 1893. collision. HMS ARDENT: BOMBALA The name was written either by: BOUKADRA 1) Destroyer, built 1913, sunk 1916 HMS BRAMBLE: 2) Destroyer, built 1929, sunk 1940 Gulf patrol — helped Sultan Feisal in the The name serves as a reminder that in winter rebellion of 1895 1981 the HMS ARDENT paid a visit to Muscat shortly before sailing to the South HMY BRITANNIA 1979: Atlantic where she was sunk in the Falklands Visit of HM Elizabeth II to Muscat. conflict in 1982. USS BRONINSON 858 ARGEN (FELS): USS BROOKLYN: Hansa line Could be the second of that name which between 1900 and 1902 was flagship of the AROONI 1970 Asiatic Squadron. In March 1902 she sailed HMS ASHANTI 1963: back to New York via the Suez Canal and to Muscat Visits: 7.4.63 could have visited Muscat in that connection. 7.11.63 to Muscat 11.4.64 to Muscat RN CALABRIA: 1894. Disposal 29.8.65 to Muscat Protected cruiser — launched in 1923. 1.3.67 to Gulf of Oman ordered 25.5.67 to Muscat CASTAGNOLA 20.3.71 to Muscat CASTILLO The name appears twice. INS CAUVERY: ASSAULT SQDN ROYAL MARINES Built 1943 - frigate. The name appears twice. BACHTERA KITA 1971 CHANTALA: INS BADR There are 3 BI ships of this name: BAHARISTAN: 1) 1913 - 1916 2) 1920 - Sunk in Tobruk in 1942 Strick line cargo 3) 1950 — BAHREIN CHRIS BALUCHISTAN: Strick line cargo CHC 2016 1967 M BANKOB CHO 74 BANKURA: CITY OF BATH BI. 1912 - sunk in Tobruk 1941. HMS CLEOPATRA 1977 BARPETA: USS CROAKER 60: BI. 1914- sunk in Tobruk during World War II. In 1960 the ship cruised from the Mediter- HMS BEAGLE: ranean to the Suez canal and Pakistan, calling at Survey ship. Visited Muscat 25.3.72 with HMS various ports. BULLDOG. HMS CROCUS 1921-30-25-27-29: INS BETWA MAY 72: Gulf patrol between 1921 and 1930. Anti-aircraft frigate, launched 1959. •

114 THE SHIPS' NAMES OF MUSCAT BAY

CROSTAFELS 1954: ELLORA: Cargo Liner built in 1928 in Britain. Bought by BI — 1) 1897-1907 Hansa in 1950 and renamed CROSTAFELS. 2) 1911-1938 — hospital ship during World Transformed from coal burning to oil burning War I. steamer, scrapped in 1959. ELYSIA HMS DANAE 1974 HMS ESKIMO 1964: DARESSA: Visits: 30.4.64 to Muscat BI — in service after the war. 20.10.65 to Muscat USS DAVIS 937: 14.11.65 to Muscat Visit to Muscat in 1978. 8.3.66 to Gulf of Oman DIVERE 14.3.66 to Gulf of Oman 1.2.68 to Daymanyat MS DORA—HORN 17.11.70 to Gulf of Oman 1977: DOUDARD DE LA GREE 26.1.71 to $alalah French Navy, launched 1961. HMS ESPIEGLE: HMS DUCHESS: Ocean minesweeper. The name was written either by: SS ETHIOPIA: 1) Destroyer, built 1932, sunk 1939. Two ships of this name belonged to BI: 2) Destroyer, built 1951, transferred in 1964 to 1) Built 1868-1873 — lost on Burma Coast. Royal Australian Navy. The name appears 2) Built 1874-1911 another time. EVELYN 79 DUMRA: Two BI ships: HMS FALMOUTH: The name was written either by: Visit: 9.4.74 to Muscat 1) — Transported Gen. Cunningham's South- HMS FAWN 1979. African and African troops to Kisimayu FEARLESS (1941). She was commodore ship, lost FOLKESTON (E) during the war. HMS FORD: 2) — Motor ship built after World War II. The ship was named FORD in 1918, sold in 1928 USS DUPONT: and renamed FORDE. No date of visit. There have been three ships HMS FOX: with this name in US Navy. By 1914 the conservative Ibadhis had reduced USS DUXBURY: the power of the Sultan to Muttrah, Muscat, BAY AVP-38. Between January 1950 and Sohar and a few small B5tina ports. At this December 1960 served 10 tours of duty in the point HMS FOX and DARTMOUTH drove Persian Gulf, Arabian Sea, Indian Ocean as the tribesmen from Barka and Quriyat. By flagship of the Middle East Force. Name January 1915, Muscat was ready to defend itself written three times. with Anglo-Indian soldiers. DWARKA: FOYLEY BI — Passenger liner for service between India HMS GAVINTON 1971: and Gulf, built after World War II (1947). Visits: 30.7.70 to Muscat Ended service in May 1982. The name appears 5.10.71 to Muscat three times. GAZELLE: BMS EDWARDS 74: French Navy. Still in use. ELLEN MARSK: Maersk Line — built 1950, sold 1969.

115 G. G. COSTA

SS GOOLISTAN 1901: JUWARA 1974: Anglo-Algerian Steamship Co., built in 1868. The name appears twice. The name appears probably twice. KALAT: GREBE PNS — Visit: 17.4.78 USS GREENWICH BAY 1955-1954 BMS KASARA: 1951, 1959, 1952: BI — 1890 - 1923. In June 1948, she made a goodwill tour of KATENDRECHT: Gibraltar, Port Said, Muscat, Bahrein, Possibly Danish ship. Kuwait, India, Far East. April 1949 assumed HMS KEMERTON: duties as flagship US Navy Middle East Force. Visits: 28.4.63 to Muscat Every year she sailed in the Red Sea, Persian 21.3.65 to Muscat Gulf, Indian Ocean. In this capacity visited 1.12.65 to Muscat Muscat. GREENWICH BAY has done exten- 24.12.65 to Muscat sive work carrying drugs and medical supplies 10.3.66 to Muscat to African and Arab countries. Struck from 20.4.66 to Muscat Navy list in 1966. 3.5.66 to Muscat GULF MAZOON: 7.9.66 to Muscat Cargo 8.9.66 to Muscat GURKHA 15.10.66 to Muscat HAMAH AH KHIVA: HAMZA P & 0, built 1913. K. D. HANG TUAH 29.9.77 SS KHUZISTAN 1929-30, 1939, 1931: HINDUSTAN: Strick Line. The name appears twice. P & 0, built 1869. KOHISTAN 1924: HMS HOGUE: Strick Line Cargo. The ship was sunk during World War I. USS KRAU: BMI HOLT Name not certain. INDONESIA INS KRISHNA: Accompanied by Feb. and date cancelled. RIMS INVESTIGATOR: (L)ARS MARSK: 1901 - 1902 surveying the water between Bah- rein — Hasa — Qatar. Name written twice. Maersk Line — built 1956. USS LASALLE: IRISH ALDER CORK 59 Flagship of Middle East Force since January USS ISLA DE LUZON: 1972. The name appears twice, once accom- Visited Muscat in 1902 on her way home from panied by an anchor which belongs to her the Far East. insignia. Next to one of the names there is the JESSE L. BROWN USA flag and again the anchor. HMPS JHELUM: RIMS LAWRENCE: Royal Pakistan Navy frigate. Steel paddle steamer built 1886. Stationed at JOCK Bushihr at disposal of the political agent. It was J (EL) UNGA 1960: in Muscat during the visit of Lord Curzon. Two BI ships of this name: Name written twice. 1) 1903 - 1914 LE STONE 1950 2) In service after World War H. LOCH ALVIE 1957: HMS JUPITER: Visits: 19.7.57 to Muscat Visit: 4.12.73 to Muscat 22.7.57 to Muscat

116 THE SHIPS' NAMES OF MUSCAT BAY

1.8.57 to Muscat HMS LOCH RUTHVEN 1959: 9.9.57 to Muscat Visits: 3.10.57 to Muscat 8.12.57 to Muscat 14.12.57 to Muscat 20.9.58 to Muscat 21.12.57 to Muscat 20.10.58 to Muscat 30.12.57 to Muscat 18.12.58 to Muscat 12.1.58 to Muscat 8.1.59 to Muscat 4.2.58 to Muscat 23.5.59 to Muscat 3.3.58 to Muscat 17.6.61 to Muscat 6.5.58 to Muscat 29.12.62 to Muscat 11.5.58 to Muscat 28.4.63 to Muscat 29.6.58 to Muscat LOCH FYNE 58: 26.4.59 to Muscat Visits: 5.1.57 to Muscat 6.9.59 to Muscat 21.12.57 to Muscat 12.10.60 to Muscat 6.12.59 to Muscat 12.11.60 to Muscat 23.3.61 to Muscat 18.8.62 to Muscat 7.7.62 to Muscat LOGOS 1971 9.3.63 to Salala LUPIN: HMS LOCH (IN)SH 1950: In February 1930 HMS LUPIN was used for Visits: 7.7.55 to Muscat the meeting of King Faisal of Iraq and King 16.5.56 to Muscat Azii ibn Savol of Saudi Arabia for discussion 3.10.56 to Muscat of a treaty of friendship; possibly the same ship 8.1.59 to Muscat came to Muscat. 10.2.59 to Muscat HMS LYNX: 7.1.60 to Muscat Patrol in 1871-72 in the Gulf. The name appears 20.1.60 to Muscat twice. 27.2.60 to Muscat MAKRAN 5.9.60 to Muscat MANICA 26.8.61 to Muscat MANORA: HMS LOCH KILLISPORT 1959-60: Two BI ships of this name: Visits: 19.5.55 to Muscat 1) 1884 -1907 21.11.55 to Muscat 2) 1913 -1932 20.3.57 to Muscat MARIANNE 1950 29.3.58 to Muscat 12.9.58 to Muscat MIRBAT: 5.11.59 to Muscat (In Arabic). 19.3.60 to Muscat MORVADA: HMS OND BI - In service after World War II. LOCH OND (LOMOND): SS MULBERA: Visits: 11.1.56 to Muscat BI - With MANTOLA carried troops 28.1.57 to Muscat between India, East Africa and Middle East 11.2.57 to Muscat during World War II. 2.8.57 to Muscat USS MUX: 21.7.60 to Muscat Name not certain. 19.10.60 to Muscat INS MYSORE: 3.2.62 to Muscat Cruiser purchased from Britain, 1954.

117 G. G. COSTA

NALGO (RA): (R)HEINFELS 1920: BI - Sunk after Cape of Good Hope in 1941 on Hansa Line - Cargo delivered to Hansa in 1905 the way from England. - captured by UK in 1914 in Bombay. Renamed SS NEARCHUS: only in 1922. Basra Port Authorities. In charge of main- (R)HEINFELS 9.3.69: tenance of lighthouses in the Gulf in the 1930s. The name appears twice, one with date, one I.G. NICHELSON 23.1.61 with the Hansa Line flag: a black Maltese cross NIJNI NOVGOROD 1893: on white background bordered by narrow red Russian ship. lines. The ship accompanied by date 1969 was not belonging but chartered on long basis NIRY - RA terms to Hansa. NUBIA: R.O.K. NAVY APD-83: P & 0, built 1870. Korean Navy. NURANI ROME: OCEANEER P & 0 in service with this name between 1881 OCEANO and 1904. OKSOY HS ROSTAM: OLIVE Written also in Persian with date 2535. HMS ORMONDE: HMS ROTHESAY: Sloop - survey vessel 3. '24, sold 1937. Visit: 10.11.75 OUN DA 63 ST. HELENA 1961 PATRICIA PNS SAHIWAL: TTEHAOrOPOK 1965 Visit: 17.4.78 PEMBA: PNS SEHWAN: Two BI ships of this name: Visit: 21.5.79 1) 1877 -1902 SHABAB OMAN 2) 1945 - (In Arabic) HMS PERSEUS: SHAHARISTAN: Near the name is the British flag with white Strick cargo service from 1956 - 70. insignia - Gulf Division in 1900. (PNS) SHAHJAHAN: PHOENICIA July 1973 Destroyer handed to Pakistan in 1958 by USA. PONY CHARLIE SHARISTAN: USS POWER 839: Strick Line cargo. During 1963 and 1966-67 served with Middle SHEILA 79 East Force. SHIRALA RAMONA SIMLA: RELUME: Two ships of this name: Belonging to Middle East Navigation Aids 1) P & 0, built 1871. Service for maintenance of lighthouses. 2) BI, built 1878 -1902. HMS REOBEL 1909: PNS SIND: Name uncertain. The name appears twice, once without letters RESPIE 22.4.58 PNS. RFA RESURGENT: Visit: 21.5.79. Royal Fleet Auxiliary - name uncertain.

118 THE SHIPS' NAMES OF MUSCAT BAY

SIRDHANA: HMS TEAZER 1876-77-78-79: Two BI ships of this name: Gulf patrol. The ship helped Sultan Turki 1) BI - sunk at beginning of World War II in during the attack on Muscat in 1877. Singapore. PNS TIPPU SULTAN: 2) Built after World War II for service Calcutta Acquired from Britain in 1942. - Far East. TRIAD HMS SIRIUS: TULYARD The name was written either by: URLANA: 1) Wood sloop, built 1868, sold 1885. Three BI ships of this name: 2) Cruiser, built 1890, sunk 1918. 1) 1899-1924. 3) Cruiser, built 1940, sold 1956. 2) 1941-1943. 4) Frigate, built 1964. 3) New cargo built after World War II - 1946. HMS SPHINX: VALCO 1884 under construction with RIMS UR: LAWRENCE. 1895 Miles obtained that the USS VALCOUR; until 1971 flagship of US - SPHINX was on permanent patrol in the Gulf. Middle East Force. RIMS PATRICK STEWART: (V)ARSOVA: Built in 1878, belonging to the Indo-European BI - used as hospital ship during World War I. Telegraph Dept. - 1885 piloted the cable laying steamers replacing cable Jashk-Bushihr. VICTOR Name written twice. P. Stewart, officer of the VITA: Bengal Engineers, became the first Director- Two BI ships of this name: in-Chief of the Indo-European Telegraph 1) Hospital ship during World War I. Dept. (1862). 2) Built as mail and passenger ship. 1940 STRATHLOMOND 1956-77: became hospital ship between Haifa and P & 0, built after World War II. Name painted Tobruk. 1941 damaged and repaired, sent to in Mina Qaboos. Aden. STRATHMAY: WAHS P & 0, built after World War II. WAIKELO HMS STRIKER: WARORA 1963: Visits: 12.5.61 to Muscat Three BI ships of this name. The name appears 10.3.62 to Muscat twice. One shows an older handwriting but is 18.3.62 to Muscat without date. It could belong either to a ship in 6.9.64 to Muscat service in 1887-1911 or in 1919-1939. The second 10.3.66 to Muscat time the name goes with the date 1963. 4.6.66 to Muscat WEIS CAL SUHALI WISSMAN SURMA HMS WOODLARK INS TALWAR: 1880-81-82-83-86: Frigate. Launched 1958. The name appears Gulf patrol. twice. HMS YARMOUTH 1976 TAMANIA YNCEDS: TANGISTA(N): Three BI ships of this name: Strick Line cargo. 1) 1899-1924 TAVANA 1979 2) 1941 -1943 3) 1946-

119 G. G. COSTA

HMS ZULU: NOTES Visits: 11.4.56 to Gulf of Oman 8.6.69 to Muscat I A few names were painted also on Goat Island (Ra's Musandam), near the fishing village of Kumzar (Ra's 21.7.71 to Khasab Musandam) and in Kuria Muria Islands. Some of the names K2134 of Goat Island were destroyed during building of new port underneath: 2 wings facilities. 2 A further research to identify which of these ships came with A and crown: to Muscat and when, could be carried out at least for British Armstrong Submarine — 34 could stand for 1934 ones, studying their log books kept at the Public Record S 1434 Office (London), or possibly at the Lloyds Register of Ships, also for ships of other nationalities. This, unfortunately, Sea horse could not be done at this stage of the research. 17.2...4 (probably 34): 3 G. R. Campbell in "A holiday in the Persian Gulf" 1911 Probably S class submarine. says "The names of French vessels are noticeable as being the best done". It is unfortunate that no name of old French ships LXXII can now be identified. Griffin 13/2/34

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Lorimer, J. G. 1907. The Gazetteer of the Persian Gulf — ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Oman and Central Arabia. Wilson, A. 1928. The Persian Gulf. I wish to acknowledge here the help and support to my Hoskins, H. L. 1928. British Routes to India. research received from: Rear Admiral J. Gunning, Sultan of Ewart, A. (Boyd Cable). 1937. A Hundred Year History Oman's Navy, Muscat; Mr. Abdul Redha Backer Yacoob, of the P & 0 Steam Navigation Co. Oman United Agencies, Muscat; Mr. Ahmed Abdul Latif, Saunders, H. St. G. 1948. Valiant Voyaging — A short history Bhacker Hajji Abdul Latif Fazul, Muscat; Miss H. P. White, of the British I.S.N.C. in the II World War. Naval Historical Library, London; Mr. P. Maddock, U.S. Kumar, R. 1965. India and the Persian Gulf Region Naval Institute, Annapolis; Mr. M. Braun, Hapag Lloyd (1858-1907). Hamburg; Mr. J. Holck, Danish Shipowners Association, Gray, L. 1967. 85 years of shipping under the Maltese cross Copenhagen; Mr. H. W. E. Hollins, Middle East Navigation 1881-1966. Portrait of a major German shipping Co. Aids Service, Bahrain; Mr. E. Macro, Petersfield, Landen, R. G. 1967. Oman since 1856 - Disruptive Modern- Hampshire and Mr. M. Ciriello, Bonn. ization in a traditional Arab Society.

Contributor's address DR G. GRAZIOSI COSTA, Ministry of National Heritage & Culture, P.O. Box 668, Muscat.

120 THE SHIPS' NAMES OF MUSCAT BAY

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PLATE 2. PLATE 3. Concentration ofnamesonthenorthernpartislandwithtower,and(onrightphoto)remainsofagunplatform(alSirat alSharqiya).

AVEI .I.VOSIIIN10 S 3WVN ,S(IIHS aRl. with dateunclearprobably PLATE 4. Names indifferentstatesofpreservation(HMS)Bramblewithdateillegible,NalgtobecompletedNalgora;PatrickStewart 1878; and othersalmostfadedalthoughpaintedprobablyin 1950.

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THE SHIPS' NAMES OF MUSCAT BAY G. G. COSTA

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6. LATE THE SHIPS' NAMES OF MUSCAT BAY

lag. h f it w eus Pers HMS te no d, lan is he t f o liff c tern wes he t f o w ie v G. G. COSTA l i Iffth Y4VP I* II4MUV , 74ilalf i tap ttlifz. SlirW , 14if , il fo7fMt IViii!P1i i4V M0Piii 1 71:1 1111