Travel Companion Book This Booklet Was Designed by Goway Staff for Your Enjoyment As Well As for the Practical Information It Provides

Home , Battle of Pichincha, Geography of Peru, History of Ecuador, Miss Ecuador, Palacio de Torre Tagle, Pichincha (volcano)

TRAVEL COMPANION Magical Ecuador and Peru MAGICAL ECUADOR AND PERU

BELIZE MEXICO Belmopan GUATEMALA Guatemala HONDURAS EL Tegucigalpa SALVADOR Caribbean NICARAGUA Sea San Jose Cartagena Caracas Atlantic COSTA Panama Ocean RICA PANAMA VENEZUELA Armenia GUYANA Bogota Angel Falls COLOMBIA SURINAME FRENCH Neiva GUIANA San Agustin GALAPAGOS Otavalo Quito ISLANDS Riobamba Amazon River Santiago ECUADOR San Manaus Fortaleza Fernandina Santa Cruz Cristobal

Isabela PERU Recife Machu Lima Picchu BRAZIL Salvador Cusco Lake Titicaca Arequipa Brasilia La Paz Pacific Ocean BOLIVIA Pantanal

Uyuni Buzios Rio de Sao Janeiro South Pacific Paulo Ocean San Pedro PARAGUAY Te Peu Tereveka de Atacama Iguassu Ahu Falls CHILE Hanga EASTER Roa ISLAND Alturas Del Poike Airport 13 Moai Cordoba Mendoza URUGUAY Colonia Montevideo Santiago Buenos Aires ARGENTINA

Puerto Varas Bariloche Puerto Madryn

FALKLAND

ECUADOR FLAG Calafate ISLANDS Port Punta Howard Stanley Arenas Ushuaia

PERU FLAG

ANTARCTICA International Time Zones

London Rome Moscow Baghdad Kuwait Karachi Rangoon Singapore Beijing Tokyo Vancouver Toronto Berlin Bucharest Addis Ababa Sharjah Alma Ata Bangkok Kuala Lumpur Hong Kong Osaka San Francisco New York Frankfurt Belgrade Guangzhou Khabarovsk Los Angeles Zurich Istanbul Shanghai Sydney Paris Dalian Melbourne Manila Harbin Kunming EXCLUSIVE SMALL GROUP TOURING TO DOWNUNDER, AFRICA, MIDDLE EAST, ASIA AND SOUTH AMERICA

Magical Ecuador and Peru

26 DAYS Guayaquil · Galapagos Islands · Quito · Northern Highlands Otavalo · Lima · Cusco · Sacred Valley · Machu Picchu · Lake Titicaca

Goway’s Promise of Something Special

GOWAY TRAVEL LIMITED USA · CANADA · AUSTRALIA www.goway.com General InformatIon

Your Magical Ecuador and Peru Travel Companion Book This booklet was designed by Goway staff for your enjoyment as well as for the practical information it provides. It includes lots of information to stimulate your thinking about amazing Ecuador and Peru. We have also included a diary section where we recommend you make notes to help you recall specific details when you get home (some people use it for tracking tour expenses). We hope you find your Travel Companion Book not only useful, but also enjoyable.

General Information ...... 5-8 Ecuador General Information ...... 9-12 Ecuador ...... 13 Galapagos ...... 14-19 Peru General Information ...... 20-23 Peru ...... 24-27 Famous Ecuadorians & Interesting Facts ...... 29-30 Famous Peruvians & Interesting Facts ...... 31-32 Recipes ...... 33 WE APPRECIATE YOUR Before You Go ...... 34 HELP AND ADVICE Diary ...... 34-45 If during your trip you discover any About Goway ...... 46 inconsistencies or printing mistakes in your “travel companion” we Goway Brochure Rack ...... 47 would appreciate you informing your tour director or us directly on More HOLIDAYS OF A LIFETIME Vacations ...... 48 your return. We also appreciate any recommendations and suggestions Notes ...... 49 for improvement. Address Book ...... 50 End of Tour Questionnaire ...... 51-52 END OF TOUR QUESTIONNAIRE IIn order to maintain and even improve the quality of our special group tours, we encourage you to complete and return the Goway questionnaire about your trip when you return home. Obviously, this is not compulsory but your thoughts and comments are valued by us.

4 General InformatIon GENERAL INFORMATIONLlama - local FOR and Goway TRAVELLERS "happy passenger" CuscoTO ECUADOR AND PERU

CLOTHING SUGGESTIONS • Comfortable, closed-toed walking shoes • Light weight, loose clothing: cottons, pants, shorts, skirts, shirts & blouses. • Long sleeve shirts and pants for evenings • Hat with a brim to protect from the sun • Smart casual clothing for dinners and evening functions. • Light weight water-proof jacket • Sweater for evenings • Swimsuit

OTHER SUGGESTIONS • Sunglasses • Sun Block and insect repellent that con- tains "Deet" • Camera (with zoom lens if possible) and spare batteries • Film (double the number you first thought of!) or extra memory cards • Binoculars • Plastic bags for damp laundry and dirty clothing • Plastic bags for protecting camera equip- ing, we recommend the bulk of your mon- ENTRY REQUIREMENTS ment ey be taken in US dollars. • Every passenger must have a passport valid for at least 6 months after their • Laundry detergent packets. Laundromats TIPPING expected return home. are not readily available but it is pos- Tipping is a reward for good service and at • Canadian citizens do not require visas sible to send out clothing at reasonable your own discretion. It is important to note for Peru. US citizens do not require a rates at 2 night stops that in South America, salaries are based visa for Peru. • Converter for 220 in some places in Peru on the assumption that gratuities will be • Fold up umbrella received. Included in your tour are all tips LUGGAGE for baggage handling, included meals, day • Small flashlight and travel alarm clock It is best if you can travel as lightly as pos- tour guides, transfer drivers, coach drivers, sible. Most people take much more than • Bubble wrap to protect all your souvenirs safari drivers and local guides. necessary. If you can take only one piece of • All personal toiletries Tips for your tour director are not included. checked luggage with a folding bag inside • All personal medications for the dura- you should do so. Please keep in mind that tion of your stay in South America and HEALTH REQUIREMENTS at airports you will have to handle your own a copy of any prescriptions you have as • Please contact your doctor or Commu- baggage through customs (there are bag- well as a copy of any eyeglass prescrip- nity Health Centre for details. gage carts), so you won’t want to pack exces- tions... just in case! • Vaccinations against Hepatitis A, Yellow sive amounts. Pack lightly, allowing room • Please contact your travel agent regard- Fever and Typhoid are recommended. in your suitcase for purchases en route. The ing frequent flyer membership/points • Please bring all over-the-counter medi- airline industry standard for International • Leave all jewellery at home cations with you from home such as flights is 1 bag per person not exceeding Aspirin, immodium, gravol etc. 20/23 kgs. depending on the airline. There are exceptions and it is a good idea to check CURRENCY/MONEY • Hotels generally supply clean water, if in with your travel agent or the airline to ver- All major Credit Cards and Travellers doubt, stick to bottled water. Cheques are accepted. Do not rely on ify the current baggage restrictions prior to • Swimming is not recommended except availability of ATM machines. Bring at least your departure. We recommend that you do in hotel pools and the ocean. US$100.00 in small bills. US$ are accepted not exceed 20 kgs (45 lbs) per person as that everywhere. For ease of cashing and spend- is the limit on the domestic flights.

5 General InformatIon

Up close and personal with the wildlife of the Galapagos

CARRY-ON BAG our destinations. Our representatives offer sun. Photographing people is a question Frequent flyers know it is best to bring a special charm and warmth and add im- of common sense and manners. It is rude a carry-on bag to pack with incidentals measurably to the success of the trip. Like- to take pictures of people without asking and things for the flight. It is a good idea wise our safari guides are important mem- them first. Some people may ask for mon- to pack a change of clothes (in case your bers of our team. As well as being respected ey to take their picture and you should ac- suitcase goes farther than you do). A note and skilled drivers, they are entertaining knowledge their request. Photographing of caution, your carry-on luggage must be travelling companions who offer a wealth strategic subjects such as military buildings compact enough to fit under your seat on of local knowledge. and border posts is not recommended. the aircraft. The airline industry standard is 22” x 15” x 8” and it must not weigh more GETTING THE MOST OUT OF SAFETY than 15 lbs and is subject to change. It is a Common sense is your best protector. Do good idea to check with your travel agent YOUR JOURNEY not bring any expensive jewellery with or the airline to verify the current baggage PHOTOGRAPHY you on the trip. Do not walk around with restrictions prior to your departure. All lug- things you cannot do without, like your Ecuador and Peru are extremely photoge- gage must be labeled with your name on passport or airlines tickets. Carry mini- nic countries. From panoramic scenery, the outside and your name and address on mum amounts of cash and keep it hidden wildlife and birds, to people, vibrant cer- the inside. and never leave anything unguarded. emonies and historic sites. Rich colour and good low lighting conditions abound and PROFESSIONAL TOUR DIRECTORS TIPS FOR STAYING HEALTHY Our professional directors are carefully with any kind of camera you’ll get beauti- selected and specially trained for Goway’s ful pictures. Your good health is paramount while HOLIDAYS OF A LIFETIME. They are cho- If you take photography seriously, you will traveling and taking simple precautions sen for their organizational abilities, caring probably want a single-lens reflex (SLR) can drastically reduce your chances of fall- personalities, dedication and love of travel. camera and two or three lenses; but re- ing ill. Their knowledge and expertise add colour member, these are heavy, relatively fragile and excitement to every day of the tour! and eminently stealable. 1. BEFORE YOU DEPART They handle the day to day details of your You do not really need cumbersome lenses. trip, provide you with valuable informa- It’s often easier and less intrusive to take HEALTH INSURANCE It is imperative that you purchase an ad- tion, arrange your private sightseeing and a small compact camera and keep your equate insurance package that covers your smooth over unexpected situations. He or money for extra memory! Always bring health, possessions and cancellations. Be she is not only your tour leader, but will plenty of film as it is sometimes difficult to clear on what your policy coverage includes be a friend. find and expensive or additional memory and excludes and leave a copy at home In addition to your tour director, Goway card(s). Keep your camera in a dust resis- with family members. Discuss details on has local representatives at each one of tant, padded case and out of the midday

6 General InformatIon

"On the Road Again" Goway in South America necessary while, for others, immunizations If in doubt, the number one rule is do not 1970's are critical. Your doctor or community drink the water and that includes ice! If health nurse will review your travel plans you do not know for absolute certainty that and decide if you need any vaccines. Many the water is safe, always assume the worst. immunizations require a specific time pe- Only use water from containers with a ser- riod to take effect or require certain follow- rated seal – not tops or corks Take care with up shots – so plan well ahead. You should fruit juice, particularly if water has been record any immunization shots received added. Be careful when ordering drinks on an official health certificate as this is from the bar – ice cubes and added water often a requirement of visa applications. may not be safe. Milk should be treated Vaccines that may be needed to protect you with suspicion, as it is often unpasteurised. include the following: Boiled milk is fine if it is kept hygienically Hepatitis A or hepatitis A immune globulin and yoghurt is always good. Tea and coffee will be ok as long as water has been boiled. Hepatitis B If in doubt ask! Influenza Remember to brush your teeth with puri- Japanese encephalitis fied water rather than straight from the tap. Measles-mumps-rubella Meningococcal meningitis FOOD There is an old colonial adage which says: Pneumococcal purchasing comprehensive insurance pack- “If you can cook it, boil it or peel it, you ages with your travel agent. Polio can eat it...otherwise forget it.” Salads and Rabies fruit should be washed with purified wa- BE PREPARED Tetanus and diphtheria toxoids ter or peeled where possible. Ice cream is Have medical and dental check-ups before usually ok if it is a reputable brand name, Cholera your trip to be aware of problems and to but beware of products bought from street find out about medicines you might want Yellow fever vendors in developing countries and of ice to take along. Carry enough of your regu- Malaria Medication cream that has melted and been refrozen. lar medicines in their original containers If you are going to a country with a risk of Thoroughly cooked food is safest but not showing the generic rather than the brand malaria, take preventive medicine for ma- if it has been left to cool or it is has been name (which may not be available locally) laria as prescribed by your doctor. Remem- reheated. Shellfish, such as mussels, oysters as it will make getting replacements easier. ber to start taking your malaria medicine and clams, and undercooked meat, par- Obtaining a note from your doctor that before you leave on your trip, take it during ticularly ground meat, should be avoided. states the medical reasons for your pre- your travels and keep taking it for 4 weeks If a restaurant looks clean and well run, scription and the recommended dosage after you get home. then the food is probably safe. In general, is also encouraged. If you need syringes places that are packed with travelers or lo- for a medical condition such as diabetes 2. WHILE YOU ARE TRAVELLING cals will be fine, while empty restaurants or peanut allergy, it is very important that are questionable. The food in busy restau- you take along an appropriate supply. As WATER & DRINKS rants is cooked and eaten quite quickly, well, we highly recommend you carry a medical certificate that shows they are for medical use. If you wear glasses or contact lenses, take a spare pair and your current prescription. Wear a medical information bracelet if needed. Make sure the airlines, your tour director and restaurants/hotels have been informed about any specific al- lergies etc. Take a first-aid kit with you ... here are some suggested items to include in your kit: cold/flu medication, Immodium, cough drops, headache medication, tums, motion sickness pills, sunscreen, insect repellent, first aid cream, bandaids, etc.

IMMUNIZATIONS For some countries, no immunizations are

7 General InformatIon and there is less chance that it has been sitting around for ages and then reheated. EXCLUSIVE FUN THEMES

WALKING, HIKING ETC: A GOWAY EXCLUSIVE in which you are travelling. When your Be sure to cover up with insect repellant A unique feature of our fully escorted HOLIDAY OF A LIFETIME tour visits – especially when traveling in the tropics. tours to Ecuador and Peru is that all the Galapagos you'll see and learn Spray on repellant with DEET will offer you tours have been designated a special exciting things about the animals of the greatest protection. In potentially high fun theme to give them a particular the region. mosquito-laden areas, wear long sleeve “flavouring”. On each departure we shirts and pants and use mosquito nets emphasize one of the following:. Geography & History You don't have to be a geography or while sleeping. Be sure to research whether On each departure of this tour, we insect carried diseases are a problem where history buff to enjoy our departures emphasize one of the following: you intend to travel. which emphasize this theme. Delve • Animal & Plant Life into the rich Spanish and Incan his- SWIMMING • Geography & History tory.. Use hotel swimming pools wherever pos- • Lifestyles & Native Culture Lifestyles & Native Cultures sible. Never swim on unguarded beaches. A brief description of what to expect Learn about the unique culture of the or rivers. on each of these particular themes is Incas through their legends and archae- as follows: SUNTANNING ological gifts to the world. Experience Many of us travel to find a spot in the sun the lifestyle of the native villagers at but overexposure can cause severe sun- Animal & Plant Life places such as Lake Titicaca while visit- burn. Stay in the shade during extreme On departures with emphasis on ing the different local communities. burn times and use plenty of sun block. Animal & Plant Life our tour directors All our themes are fun, enjoyable and When choosing sun block, check the SPF and local guides will point out and interesting. You will see more and Factor and the brand. SPF 30+ is recom- briefly describe some of the unique learn more when travelling on one of mended when traveling. and interesting facts about the plants Goway’s HOLIDAYS OF A LIFETIME! and animals found in each of the areas 3. WHEN YOU RETURN HOME If you become sick or feel unwell after re- PLEASE NOTE turning to North America, you should see On all of our tours our major concentration is still on the highlights of the tour itself. your doctor. Inform the doctor, without If the particular tour you are on does not have your preferred theme, don’t worry! On being asked, that you have been travel- every HOLIDAY OF A LIFETIME you will see unique animals, unusual geographical ing outside Canada and name the specific formations and cultural riches. Our tour directors will be more than happy to answer countries you visited. If you were ill while any of your questions regardless of which theme departure you are on! traveling, see your doctor on your return All our themes are fun, enjoyable and interesting. You will see more and learn more and explain your travel history and any when travelling on one of Goway's HOLIDAYS OF A LIFETIME! treatment you received.

TIP

Regarding Your Neck Pillow Please note that your neck pillow has a pinch valve — you pinch or squeeze it when blowing up the pillow. Similarly, you squeeze the valve for let- ting air out. Please be sure to let out all air, otherwise you will probably burst a seam by accident.

Expert local guides enhance local experiences

8 Compiled by Robert Glazier, GOWAY’S Goway Travel

EcuadorCOLOMBIA DRINKING WATER to/from Always drink bottled water. Galapagos Islands Otavalo TELEPHONE Ecuador has a complete telephone network Equator that covers almost all the national territory Quito including the Galapagos Islands. Big cities Pacific and towns have a good telephonic service Ocean ECUADOR so calling in and outside the country isn't complicated

CLOTHING The following list is very comprehensive Guayaquil but will give an idea of the type of items which are suitable. • 2 sets of light, comfortable traveling LOCATION clothes. North West of South American continent 22 degrees Centigrade (72 degrees Fahren- • 1 set of casual but smart clothing for heit) to 32 degrees Centigrade (91degrees nights out or for when visiting churches AREA 272, 046 sq. kms./105,037 sq. miles Fahrenheit). PERU and or museums. POPULATION 15 million BUSINESS HOURS • 3 pairs of shorts Generally business hours are from 8.30 am • 1 hat CAPITAL Quito 1.5 million to 12.30 pm and from 2.30 pm to 6.30 pm. • 1 water proof jacket (Gore-Tex is recom- Monday to Friday and Saturday morning. TIME Mainland GMT minus 5 hours, Gala- mended) pagos GMT minus 6 hours BANKING • Sunglasses Foreign currencies can be exchanged at • Prescription glasses if necessary LANGUAGE banks but also at Casas de Cambio (Ex- • 1 pair Tevas or sandals The official language is Spanish but Que- change Bureaus). ATM’s are available in • 1 pair of good walking boots (water cha and other indigenous languages are large urban areas. common. Some English is spoken. proofed is recommended) PASSPORT/VISA • Swimming suit ETHNIC GROUPS A valid passport is required for entry into • Torch or flash light with batteries. (See Ethnic groups consist of approximately Ecuador with remaining 6 month validity. attached “responsible Tourism for meth- 25% Indigenous people, approximate- No visa is required for citizens of Canada ods of battery disposal) ly 65% Mestizos (mixed ethnic back- and the United States. Other nationalities • Water bottle of at least one litre in capacity grounds), approximately 7% whites, and should check for requirements. approximately 3% blacks as well as mulat- • A money belt tos and other sections of the population. HEALTH Good medical care is available in Quito, RELIGION Guayaquil, and most of the big cities. There More than 90% of the population is Ro- is a lack of hospital infrastructure in small man Catholic towns but you will find health centres that provide first aid. In Quito, Guayaquil and CLIMATE most of the province's capital cities you Ecuador’s climate varies from one region to will find well trained and specialized doc- another due to the differences in altitude, tors, many of them bilingual. proximity to the equator and the Pacific Ocean. Quito has a mountain climate as it CURRENCY is in the highlands. The driest time is from The US Dollar was accepted as the national May to October. Temperatures range from currency of Ecuador in 2000, thereby re- 7 degrees Centigrade (45 degrees Fahren- placing the Sucre, the former currency. heit) to 23 degrees Centigrade (74 degrees Fahrenheit. The coastal region is very hot ELECTRICITY and wet from December to May. The electrical current is 110 volts. A plug The Galapagos temperatures range from adaptor could be an asset. Bienvenido to Ecuador

9 ecuador General Info

• Camera or Video camera or both. It El Mitad del Mundo - The Middle of the World, Quito Ecuador is easy to re-charge batteries whilst in Quito or when travelling. It is recommended that you bring spare batteries for the jungle section of your trip. • Film. Good quality film is available in Quito but at a higher price than in North America. Film speed of 400ASA is recommended for general lighting conditions. • A day pack large enough to carry your fleece or Gore-Tex, camera, water bottle etc. • Small storage bag for miscellaneous items. • Sewing kit • Alarm Clock • Pocket calculator • Diary and writing materials the traditional foods of Ecuador will be not boiled or the ice is not clean. • Leatherman or Swiss Army knife able to select from a broad spectrum of na- Here is a little selection of the common • Please DO NOT BRING PLASTIC BAGS. tional dishes. The overwhelming favorite fruits to prepare juices: aguacate (avocado), Ziplocs that are used are expected to national Ecuador food though consists of arazá, babaco, banano (banana), chiri- return home with you. rice, potatoes and meat – known locally as moya (custard apple), coco (coconut), du- "churrasco". Usually the meat will be beef razno (peach), fresa or frutilla (strawber- TIPPING or chicken, but in some parts of Ecuador ry), granadilla (pomegranate), guanábana, Tipping is not as common in Ecuador as in you may find this is pork. Among the other guayaba (guava), limón (lemon), mandari- other countries. selections of national foods of Ecuador you na (tangerine), mango (mango), manzana may find yourself being offered include: (apple), maracuyá (passion fruit), melón TAxIS • Ceviche - marinated seafood (melon), mora (blackberry), naranja (or- While the use of metres is obligatory in • Corvina - sea bass ange), naranjílla (some kind of a citrus Quito, drivers consider US$1 to be the fruit), papaya (papaya), pera (pear), piña • Cuy - guinea pig minimum fare no matter what the metre (pineapple), sandía (water- melon), taxo, says. In other places, negotiate the fare be- • Fritada - roast pork, corn, cheese, tomate de árbol, toronja (grapefruit), tuna fore getting in. Tipping is not customary. avocado, potatoes and plantains (cactus fig), zanahoria (carrot). • Locro - a combined cheese, avocado and Pipas Heladas are chilled, with delicious RESTAURANTS potatoes soup juice filled coconuts. Mid-level to upscale restaurants will add a • Humitas - cornmeal tamales 10% service charge onto your bill (along Most consumed alcoholic drink is besides • Trucha – trout with a 12% tax). No need to add anything the burning punta (a home-made sugar- on top, unless the service has been excep- However, while soups are undoubtedly Ec- cane liquor), beer (cerveza). There are two tionally good in which case, a dollar or two uador's speciality food, every Ecuadorian brands in Ecuador: the clear Pilsener and to indicate your appreciation would be in gets involved with making their own "aji". Club. A cool Nevada that is almost only order. Aji is the hot sauce that accompanies most available in the south (in one liter bottles) foods of Ecuador – and be warned: some is like European beers. FOOD can be quite spicy! Good wine (vino), particularly red wine As you might imagine with a country full from Chile, Argentina, California or Spain of such diverse vegetation and climate, Ec- NATIONAL DRINKS is sold in big supermarkets. Much better uador food is well-known for its vast array Fresh juices (jugos) are prepared with wa- brands can be found in small liquor shops. of exotic fruit, numerous vegetables (most ter, or milk (batido). The variety is huge juice) are also very popular drinks. At vil- notably its potatoes), and superb quality and reaches from the normal orange juice lage parties in the Andean highland (fiestas seafood. However, if Ecuador food is not (jugo de naranja) to the delicious avocado del pueblo), and in Quito's district parties to your particular liking, food in Ecuador milkshake (batido de aguacate). Fresh juic- (fiestas del barrio), Canelazo is served, includes the availability of Western cuisine, es, sold on the streets are not always recom- a spicy hot sugar-cane liquor with cinna- or even Asian food. Those electing to eat mendable because sometimes the water is mon. Chicha is a fermented, thick drink of

10 ecuador General Info cash with you at a time. Traveller's checks are not recommended because of difficulty of use in Ecuador. In small towns, almost all transactions occur in cash, and there are likely to be no ATMs. In the Galapagos Islands, there is only ATM access on Santa Cruz and San Cristobal Islands.

SECURITY Ecuador is considered one of the safer countries in the Andean Region, Howev- er, it is always a good idea to be cautious during your visit. Ecuador's urban centres, especially Quito and Guayaquil, are generally more dangerous than the countryside. The best way to prevent crime is using your common-sense reducing the likelihood of being a crime victim by following a few ba- Locals shopping at the Otavalo Market - Ecuador sic precautions. maize, bananas, manioc Quinua or Chonta For artesanía, Otavalo is the most famous palm. It is prepared particularly in the Am- and possibly the best place to bargain for HISTORY OF ECUADOR azon region and is said to have a beneficial good quality products, such as weavings, Ecuador's culture and history mirrors the effect against kidney stone, constipation woodwork and jewelry. diversity of its landscape. Like much of and colic. Bargaining is the name of the game in Ec- South America, Ecuadorian culture blends uador in the markets and often in the craft the influences of Spanish colonialism with SHOPPING shops too. Indeed, in the markets there are the resilient traditions of pre-Columbian Shopping is a varied experience in Ecua- no prices on display. You need to bargain peoples. Archaeologists trace the first in- dor. From dusty, noisy animal markets to prices with the stall holder. Wait until the habitants as far back as 10,000 BC, when craft markets to sterile, glossy malls, there seller suggests a price, and then offer to pay hunters and gatherers established settle- is something for everyone here. Ecuador half to two-thirds of that price and take it ments on the southern coast and in the produces an interesting array of products from there. To find out the lowest price that central highlands. By 3,200 BC three dis- that can be purchased as souvenirs. Arts and a vendor will accept, ask “el último?” It is tinct agricultural-based civilizations had crafts (in Spanish, artesanía) such as weav- worth checking out prices on a few different emerged, producing some of the hemi- ings, wood carvings, rugs, toys and clothes stalls with similar products before entering sphere's oldest known pottery. They devel- can be picked up all over Ecuador. Prices are into bargaining, to get a good idea of value. oped trade routes with nearby Peru, Brazil, reasonable and bargaining is encouraged. Also recommended is to buy a lot of things and Amazonian tribes. Culture continued Special to Ecuador and of note, so-called at the same stall. Sellers will often discount to thrive and diversify, and by 500 BC large "Panama" hats are produced in Ecuador. prices for those buying in bulk. Stalls away cities had been established along the coast. Despite their name, their origin is in Ec- from the main arteries of markets will of- Their inhabitants had sophisticated metal- uador. Good quality hats can be rolled up ten have better bargains than those near working and navigational skills and they and will spring back into shape. Available strategic corners. Most importantly, don’t traded with Mexico's Maya. In 1460 AD, in Otavalo market. Cheap does not equate pass up that unique sweater for the sake when the Inca ruler Tupac-Yupanqui invad- to a bargain! Vegetable ivory (tagua) items of a dollar. That dollar will mean more to ed from the south, three major tribes in Ec- are a nice buy and can be both cheap and the stall holder than to you, and you will uador were powerful enough to give him a small – helpful for getting them home. surely regret it when you get home. fight: the Canari, the Quitu, and the Caras. An unusual and colourful purchase is a The Inca were a dynamic, rapidly advanc- bread dough ornament. It is possible to CREDIT AND DEBIT CARDS ing society. They originated in a pocket of buy bread dough fridge magnets, nativ- In Quito and Guayaquil, there are numer- Peru, but established a vast empire within ity and Christmas decorations (available ous ATM machines that will work with Visa a century. It dominated Peru and extended year-round) and other figures such as lla- and MasterCard-linked debit cards. Larger as far as Bolivia and central Chile. The Inca mas for a cheap price. The Otavalo region stores and restaurants are likely to accept constructed massive, monumental cities. is known for its excellent quality textiles credit and debit cards for payment, but To communicate across their empire they which are sold daily in its famous market. many will not. Cash is almost always need- laid wide, stone-paved highways thousands Good quality, cheap leather goods are also ed to buy handicrafts in the public mar- of kilometers long and sent chains of mes- a good bet in Ecuador. kets. It is best to keep smaller amounts of sengers along them. These mailmen passed

11 ecuador General Info each other records of the empire's status, ruled the country for most of its recent most features of Ecuadorian Spanish are which were coded in system of knots along history. Ecuador returned to democracy universal in the Spanish-speaking world, a rope. A winded runner could even rest in 1979, however, and free elections have there are several idiosyncrasies. in the shade of trees planted along both continued since. Music is very important in Ecuador, with sides of the road. Remarkably, the Canari, ETHNIC CULTURE differences between Coast and Highlands. Quitu, and Caras were able to hold back The majority of the Ecuadorian population Generally, pan pipes, flutes of bamboo, Tupac-Yupanqui, though they proved less is mestizo, a mixture of both European violins, drums and charangos all played successful against his son, Huayna Capac. and Amerindian ancestry, and much like often, but with different purposes. For in- After conquering Ecuador, Huayna Capac their ancestry, the national culture is also stance, in the Sierra popular tunes played at indoctrinated the tribes to Quechua, the a blend of these two sources, along with fiestas include "Rosa Maria" and "El Con- language of the Incas, which is still widely influences from slaves from Africa. 90% of dor Pasa", with sanjuanito being an easily spoken in Ecuador. recognizable genre. In the Costa, the instru- Francisco Pizarro landed in Ecuador in ments are played mostly for cumbia, salsa, 1532, accompanied by 180 fully armed Ecuador is rich in Spanish history and pasillos. Costenos have two kinds of men and an equally strong lust for gold. purposes for music, the rhythm-filled one Several years earlier, Pizarro had made which is played in most places, be it in a peaceful visit to the coast, where he public like in the bus or in parties, and the heard rumors of inland cities of incredible slow, mournful pasillos and rocolas, which wealth. This time, he intended to conquer are exclusive to old bars. The slow tunes are the Incas just as Hernando Cortez had known as cortavenisticos ("vein-cutting") crushed Mexico's Aztecs--and he couldn't because of their overall sadness. have picked a better time. Atahualpa had In addition to the numerous native cul- only recently won the war against his tures, Ecuador is home to a Mestizo cul- brother when Pizarro arrived, and the em- ture, and a sizable Afro-Ecuadorian culture pire was still unstable. Pizarro ambushed (approximately a half-million), "In the the ruler, forced him to collect an enor- mid-16th century, at least two slave ships mous ransom, and then executed him. Al- from Panama bound for Peru wrecked on though the Incas mounted considerable re- the shores of what is now Esmeraldas prov- sistance to Pizarro, they were soon broken. ince. The African slaves established a ma- Spanish governors ruled Ecuador for nearly roon society (freed slaves), and maintained 300 years, first from Lima, Peru, then lat- autonomy during much of the colonial er from the viceroyalty of Colombia. The era". Today's Afro-Ecuadorians are famous Spanish introduced Roman Catholicism, for their marimba music and dance festi- colonial architecture, and today's nation- vals. Long before the Spanish conquest, al language. Independence was won in and even much before the Inca civiliza- 1822, when the famed South American tion, the diverse native cultures of the re- liberator Simon Bolivar defeated a Span- gion had rich musical traditions. Ancient ish army at the Battle of Pichincha. Bolivar flutes, trumpets, drums, and other musical united Ecuador with Colombia and Ven- artifacts have been found in tombs. Music ezuela, forming the state of Gran Colom- was obviously important in the human bia. His plan was to eventually unite all of Ecuadorians are Roman Catholic, although and supernatural worlds of ancient Andean South America as a constitutional republic, their Christian beliefs are mixed with an- people. and one can only wonder what such a na- cient indigenous customs. Most Ecuador- With the coming of the Spanish conquer- tion would have been like if his dream had ians speak Spanish, though many speak ors in the 16th century, accompanied by been realized. After eight years, however, Amerindian languages such as Kichwa, the Catholic missionaries and African slaves, local interests sparked Ecuador to secede Ecuadorian dialect of Quechua. Other Am- additional musical languages were intro- from the union. Colombia and Venezuela erindian languages spoken in Ecuador in- duced. Today, three principal racial and soon split. clude Awapit (spoken by the Awa), A'ingae cultural strains - Indigenous, Spanish, and Ecuador's modern history has had its (spoken by the Cofan), Shuar Chicham African - have evolved into distinctive mu- struggles. A long-standing, internal dis- (spoken by the Shuar), Achuar-Shiwiar sical styles. El Pasillo is slow, sad music pute between the conservative city of Qui- (spoken by the Achuar and the Shiwiar), that is played mainly with the guitar and to and the liberal Guayaquil has at times Cha'palaachi (spoken by the Chachi), rondin, a flute-like instrument consisting boiled over into violence. Near the turn Tsa'fiki (spoken by the Tsachila), Paicoca of several pipes. The El Pasacalle type of of the century, leaders on both sides were (spoken by the Siona and Secoya) and Wao music has an upbeat rhythm and is excel- assassinated, and military dictators have Tededo (spoken by the Waorani). Though lent for dancing.

12 ecuador

Colonial Quito - both ancient and modern day capitaler Walking along the riverside that has been refurbished in the project “Malecón 2000”, you will find a mall and a park with historical monuments. Guayaquil´s churches such as “La Merced” or “San Francisco”, the beautiful cemetery below “Cerro el Carmen”, several museums, the Botanical Gardens and parks (the Parque Bolivia in front of the Cathedral is filled with tame iguanas) are also definitely worth a visit. As in many other cities in Ecuador, Guayaquil inherited the catholic religion from colonial Spanish times and was divided in parishes. Many of the original religious and historic buildings tied to those parishes were destroyed by fires and attacks of Eng- lish, French, and Dutch pirates. The oldest QUITO razed by the Incan general Rumiñahui as a church of Guayaquil, rebuilt many times, is Quito, the capital of Ecuador, is nestled in measure of resistance against the conquer- the "Iglesia de Santo Domingo". an Andean valley at an elevation of 9000 ing Spanish. The city was founded as San feet. The city is literally surrounded by vol- Francisco de Quito on December 6th, 1534 GALAPAGOS canoes -- some of these, like Mt. Pichincha, by the Spanish conquistadors. Historic The Galapagos Islands (Spanish name: very much active. Quito is considered to be Quito is the oldest and best preserved co- Archipelago de Colón or Islas Galápagos) one of the most beautiful capitals in the lonial sector in South America. The famous are an archipelago made up of 13 main world. The historic centre of Quito, known Escuela de Arte de Quito flourished in the volcanic islands, 6 smaller islands, and as the "Old City" is replete with narrow and old city and is well known for its unique 107 rocks and islets. The very first island winding cobblestone streets, magnificent baroque style. This style is reflected in the is thought to have formed between 5 and churches and open squares. The buildings rich and profuse decorations of the interi- 10 million years ago, as a result of tectonic that line the streets reflect Spanish colonial ors of many of the Quito's churches. These activity. The youngest islands, Isabela and influences with their balconies, red-tile European influences were combined with Fernandina are still being formed, with roofs, thick columns and central patios. the inspiration of indigenous art to create the most recent volcanic eruption in 2005. The importance of the colonial remnants a unique Quiteño style. For its artwork, The Galapagos archipelago is politically found in the Old City prompted UNESCO Quito has been termed the "Florence of part of Ecuador. The islands are distributed (United Nations Educational Scientific and America." around the equator, 965 kilometres (about Cultural Organization) to declare Quito a 600 miles) west of Ecuador (recently found Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 1979. GUAYAQUIL to have 3 volcanoes in the centre island, all Guayaquil is one of the main South Ameri- The Old City of Quito lies over the ruins of them active) (0° N 91° W). They are can ports in the Pacific. It is a proud city of the pre-Incan city of Kitu, principle city famed for their vast number of endemic where foreigners are well received, music of the Shyris (12th Century). Kitu was later species and the studies by Charles Darwin rules and seafood is a must. In the last replaced by the capital of Atahualpa's In- that led to his theory of evolution by natu- decade, the city has undergone some very can empire (16th century). The city was ral selection. positive changes such as the beautiful riv- Quito - nestled in the Andes erfront promenade "Malecon 2000" some OTAVALO additional green areas and modern shop- Otavalo is home of the biggest ethnic Indi- ping centres all over the city. The origin of an market in South America. Most visitors the name "Guayaquil" derives from a love come to see this huge cultural manifesta- story myth of Tribal Chief "Guayas" and his tion which takes place every Saturday when wife "Quil". The city was founded in 1538 the city centre is transformed into a market with the name "Santiago de Guayaquil" by zone. The market features the richest and Spanish Conquistador Francisco de Orella- most cultured Indians of Ecuador. In this na. Guayaquil offers some attractions that wonderful town you will have many pos- are worth seeing including the old district sibilities to take unique photos of this co- “Las Peñas”, the only part of the city where lourful spectacle which offers Indian cloth- the wooden houses were not destroyed by ing, fruit kiosks, potato sacks, pigs ready fire and where you can get an impression for transport and many tourists hunting for of the old, picturesque colonial Guayaquil. an Otavalo souvenir.

13 GalapaGos Islands The Galapagos Archipelago is a cluster several and placed most of the others on are owned by Ecuador and are maintained of some 13 volcanic islands and associ- the endangered list. Today, the Pinta Island as part of that nation's national park sys- ated islets and rocks located just under tortoise is survived by a single male, named tem. About 95% of the islands are part of the equator, about 600 miles west of Ec- "Lonesome George". Charles Darwin was the park, with the remainder being inhab- uador in South America. The oldest of the the first to make a scientific study of the ited by about 14,000 people in four ma- islands are about 4 million years old and islands in 1835. He was a young student jor communities. The islands are jointly the youngest are still in the process of be- just out of university and was the naturalist operated by the Galapagos National Park ing formed. Indeed, the Galapagos Islands on an around- Service and the Charles Darwin Research are considered to be one of the most ac- Station. The Park Service provides rangers tive volcanic areas in the world. The islands Pinta Is. and guides, and is responsible for oversee- were discovered by chance in 1535 when ing the many tourists who visit each year. Genovesa Is. Father Tomas Berlanga, the Bishop of Marchena Is. The Darwin Station conducts scientific Panama sailed to Peru to settle a dis- research and conservation programmes. pute after the conquest of the Incas. It is currently breeding and releasing The Bishop's ship stalled when the North GALAPAGOS captive tortoises and iguanas. winds died and strong currents Seymour ISLANDS carried him out to the Galapagos. Santiago Is. Is. FORMATION OF THE In his account of the adventure, to/from Rabida Is. Quito he described the harsh, desert- Santa Baltra Is. ISLANDS like condition of the islands and Fernandina Cruz Is. Is. Pinzo San As land masses go, the Galápagos their trademark giant tortoises. Is. Finch Bay Cristobal Is. Islands are not very old. A little Isabela Is. Lodge Sante Fé He wrote about the marine igua- Is. over four million years ago there nas, the sea lions and the many was an open ocean where they now types of birds. He also noted the Floreana Is. lie, on the equator some 600 miles remarkable tameness of the animals Española Is. west of Ecuador. But submarine vol- that thrill and delight modern visi- canic activity slowly built up the string tors. of islands that Darwin visited in 1835. In- Following the Bishop, the islands were deed, it was Darwin who first recognized rarely visited and became the refuge for their volcanic origin, and who understood pirates and privateers preying on Spanish the- the profound implications of this origin galleons and coastal towns. Subsequently world scientific for the history of life. For if the islands were they became the haunts of whalers and and geographical voyage on board HMS volcanic, they must have formed after the sealers. The biggest attractions to these Beagle (1831 - 1836). He had spent the creation of the world and the organisms visitors were the fur seals and the giant previous four years exploring the geology living there must have migrated there from tortoises. Tortoises could be kept alive in and wild-life of South America. In later someplace else. But since those organisms the hold of ships for up to a year with no life, Darwin maintained that the Galapa- are found nowhere else, Darwin finally had food or water so, needless to say, the tor- gos were the source of all his ideas and to conclude that they had evolved there toise populations were decimated. Each is- research and, of all the visitors there, the from South American ancestors. land has its own unique variety of tortoise Galapagos are today most closely associ- After Darwin's visit, and well into this cen- and the depletions caused the extinction of ated with Darwin. Today the Galapagos

Galapagos Islands - home to amazing wildlife

14 GalapaGos Islands tury, the origin of the islands has been dis- move off of the hot spot thereby making cavity. The ceiling periodically collapses, puted. Many thought that they had once room for a second volcanic island. And a lowering the crater floor and widening the been part of the mainland, or connected third, and a fourth.... Thus are archipelagos diameter. There was a major caldera col- to it by a land bridge. Eventually, however, like the Galapagos formed. lapse on Fernandina in June, 1968, when Darwin was vindicated; these islands had a Islands farthest from the hot spot are older the floor dropped 300 meters! The largest volcanic origin separate from the Mainland and more eroded while islands near or on caldera in the islands is that of Volcanic Si- and were never connected to it. the hot spot are younger and steeper. Thus erra Negra, Isabela, which is 7 by 10 km. But Darwin only had part of the answer. Isla San Cristobal, the nearest to the main- A more complete answer to the origin of land, is approximately four million years THE DISCOVERY OF THE the Galápagos could not be had until after old and composed of eroded, rounded 1958, when a continental drift, or plate tec- cones, while Isla Fernandina dates at less GALAPAGOS tonics, was discovered. We now understand than 7000 years and is considered to be European discovery of the Galapagos Is- that the surface of the earth is divided into lands occurred when Spaniard Fray Tomas massive tectonic plates which slowly drift de Berlanga sailed to Peru to settle a dis- across the globe. The formation of the Ga- pute. De Berlanga's vessel drifted off course lápagos is intimately tied to the history of when the winds diminished, and his party the Nazca plate, on which they lie. reached the islands on March 10, 1535. The The Galápagos are located on the very islands first appeared on maps in about northern edge of the Nazca plate, which 1570. The islands were called "Insulae de is bounded by the Cocos (north), the Pa- los Galapagos" (Islands of the Tortoises). cific (west), the South American (east), The first English captain to visit the Galápa- and the Antarctic (south) plates (see map). gos Islands was Richard Hawkins in 1593. The Nazca plate itself is currently drifting Until the early19th Century, the archipela- south, away from the Cocos plate, and east, go was often used as a hideout by mostly away from the Pacific plate. Since the net English pirates who pilfered Spanish Gal- direction of drift is southeast, the Nazca leons carrying gold and silver from South plate is colliding with the South American America to Spain. Alexander Selkirk, whose plate. At the point of collision, the South adventures inspired Daniel Defoe to write American plate, which is made of light Robinson Crusoe, visited the Galapagos continental crust, is riding up over the in 1708. The first scientific mission to the Nazca plate, which is made of dense oce- Galapagos arrived in 1790 under the lead- anic crust. This type of plate interaction is ership of Alessandro Malaspina, a Sicilian called subduction. captain whose expedition was sponsored As the Nazca plate is forced into the man- by the King of Spain. However, the records tle, it melts and its melt products work their of the expedition were lost. In 1793, James way up to the surface to form volcanoes. Colnett made a description of the flora and The land is further raised by the crumpling fauna of Galapagos and suggested that the one of the most active volcanoes in the effect as the western edge of the continent islands could be used as base for the whal- world. Recently former Galapagos Islands, rides up over the descending plate. The ers operating in the Pacific Ocean. He also now submerged, have been discovered result of all of this is the Andes, a young, drew the first accurate navigation charts of between Isla San Cristobal and the main- highly volcanic, rapidly growing mountain the islands. Whalers killed and captured land. This discovery may double the age chain. This same movement of the Nazca thousands of the Galapagos tortoises to ex- of the islands. Indeed, several million plate is responsible for producing the clus- tract their fat. The tortoises could also be years from now the present islands may ter of volcanic islands we call Galápagos. kept on board ship as a means of providing likewise sink beneath the waves only to be fresh protein as these animals could survive There is a large body of geophysical evi- replaced by a new set of Galápagos Islands. dence for the existence of enormous for several months on board without any Who can imagine what course further evo- food or water. The hunting of the tortoises plumes of hot mantle material that origi- lution will take. nate near the earth's core and rise all the was responsible for greatly diminishing, Many volcanoes are topped by a caldera, a way to the crust. These plumes seem to and in some cases eliminating, certain spe- large circular depression derived from the be stable over many millions of years and cies. Along with whalers came the fur-seal original crater (sometimes this is subse- with time, they burn through the crust to hunters who brought the population of quently filled in by new lava). During an form an underwater volcano which may this animal close to extinction. Ecuador an- eruption, the crater is fed from a magma eventually grow big enough to become an nexed the Galapagos Islands in1832, nam- chamber, but as activity dies down, the island. But, because the crustal plate is in ing them Archipelago of Ecuador. This was magma withdraws, leaving a large, open constant motion, the island will eventually a new name that added to several names

15 GalapaGos Islands

The M/V Legend - your home in the Galapagos Baltra to the island of Santa Cruz. During the 1940s scientists decided to move 70 of Baltra's land iguanas to the neighboring north Seymour Island as part of an experi- ment. This move had unexpected results for during the military occupation of Baltra in World War II, the native iguanas became extinct on the island. During the 1980s iguanas from North Seymour were brought to the Charles Darwin Research Station as part of a breeding and repopulation project and in the 1990s land iguanas were reintroduced to Baltra. As of 1997 scientists counted 97 iguanas living on Baltra; 13 of which were born on the islands.

BARTOLOME (BARTHOLOMEW) ISLAND Bartolome Island is a volcanic islet just that had been, and are still used to refer to Base at this time. Crews stationed at Baltra off the east coast of Santiago Island in the the archipelago. The voyage of the Beagle patrolled the Pacific for enemy submarines Galapagos Islands Group. It is one of the brought the survey ship HMS Beagle under as well as providing protection for the "younger" islands in the Galapagos archi- Captain Robert Fitz to the Galapagos on Panama Canal. After the war the facilities pelago. This island, and Sullivan Bay on September 15, 1835 to survey approaches were given to the government of Ecuador. Santiago Island, are named after naturalist to harbours. The captain and others on Today the island continues as an official and life-long friend of Charles Darwin, Sir board including his companion the young Ecuadorian military base. The foundations Bartholomew James Sullivan, who was a naturalist Charles Darwin made a scientific and other remains of the US base can still Lieutenant aboard HMS Beagle. study of geology and biology on Chatham, be seen as one crosses the island. In 1946 Charles, Albemarle and James Islands be- a penal colony was established in Isabela DARWIN ISLAND fore they left on October 20 to continue Island, but it was suspended in 1959. The This island is named after Charles Darwin on their round-the-world expedition. Jose Galapagos became a national park in 1959 Here fur seals, frigates, marine iguanas, Valdizan and Manuel Julian Cobos tried and tourism started in the 1960s. swallow-tailed gulls, sea lions, whales, ma- a new colonization, beginning with the rine turtles, red-footed and Nazca boobies exploitation of a type of lichen found in MAIN ISLANDS can be seen. the islands (Roccella Portentosa) used as a colouring agent. After the assassination The 17 main islands of the archipelago ESPANOLA ISLAND of Valdizán by some of his workers, Co- (with their English names) shown alpha- Its name was given in honor of Spain. It bos brought from the continent a group of betically are: also is known as Hood after Viscount Sam- more than a hundred workers to San Cris- uel Hood. Espanola is the oldest island at BALTRA ISLAND tobal Island and tried his luck at planting around 3.5 million years and the southern- (South Seymour Island) Also known as sugar cane. He ruled in his plantation with most in the chain. The island's remote loca- South Seymour, Baltra is a small flat island an iron hand which lead to his assassination has a large number of endemic fauna. located near the center of the Galapagos. It tion in 1904. Over the course of a whole Secluded from the other islands, wildlife was created by Geological uplift. The island year, from September 1904, an expedition on Espanola adapted to the island's en- is very arid and vegetation consists of salt of the Academy of Sciences of California, vironment and natural resources. Marine bushes, prickly pear cactus and palo santo led by Rollo Beck, stayed in the Galapagos iguana on Espanola are the only ones that trees. Until 1986, Baltra Airport was the collecting scientific material on geology, change color during breeding season. The only airport serving the Galapagos. Now entomology, ornithology, botany and zo- waved albatross is found on the island. there are two airports which receive flights ology. Another expedition from that Acad- The island's steep cliffs serve as the perfect from the continent, the other located on emy was done in 1932 (Templeton Crocker runways for these large birds which take off San Cristobal Island. Arriving into Baltra Expedition) to collect insects, fish, shells, for their ocean feeding grounds near the all visitors are immediately transported fossils, birds and plants. During World War mainland of Ecuador and Peru. Espanola by bus to one of two docks. The first dock 2, Ecuador authorized the United States to has two visitor sites. Gardner Bay is a swim- is located in a small bay where the boats establish a naval base in Baltra Island and ming and snorkeling site as well as offering cruising the Galapagos await passengers. radar stations in other strategic locations. a great beach. Punta Suarez has migrant, The second is a ferry dock which connects Baltra was also established as a US Air Force resident, and endemic wildlife.

16 GalapaGos Islands

Relax along side the locals!

FERNANDINA ISLAND GENOVESA ISLAND product of the merging of six large volca- The name was given in honor of King Fer- The name is derived from Genoa in Italy noes into a single landmass. On this island dinand II of Aragon, who sponsored the where it is said Columbus was born. This Galapagos penguins, flightless cormorants, voyage of Columbus. This is the youngest island is formed by the remaining edge of a marine iguanas, pelicans and Sally Light- and westernmost island. In 2005, a new large crater that is submerged. Its nickname foot crabs are to be found. At the skirts and very eruptive process began on this island of “the bird island” is clearly justified. At calderas of the volcanoes of Isabela, land when lava flows descended the slopes of Darwin Bay, frigate birds and swallow- iguanas and Galapagos tortoises can be ob- the volcano on the way to the sea. Punta tailed gulls, the only nocturnal species of served, as well as Darwin finches, Galapa- Espinosa is a narrow stretch of land where gull in the world, can be seen. Red-footed gos hawks, Galapagos doves and very inter- hundreds of marine iguanas gather largely boobies, noddy terns, lava gulls, tropical esting lowland vegetation. The third-largest on black lava rocks. The famous flightless birds, doves, storm petrels, Darwin finches human settlement of the archipelago is lo- cormorant inhabits this island and also are also to be seen. cated at the south-eastern tip of the island. Galapagos penguins, pelicans and sea lions are abundant. ISABELA ISLAND MARCHENA ISLAND This island was named in honor of Queen Named after Fray Antonio Marchena. Gala- FLOREANA ISLAND Isabela. It is the largest island of the Gala- pagos hawks and sea lions inhabit this is- It was named after Juan José Flores, the pagos. The island's seahorse shape is the land and it is home to the Marchena lava first president of Ecuador, during whose lizard, an endemic animal. administration the government of Ecuador I hope you can't see me?! took possession of the archipelago. It is NORTH SEYMOUR ISLAND one of the islands with the most interesting Its name was given after an English noble- human history and one of the earliest to be man called Lord Hugh Seymour. This is- inhabited. Flamingos and green sea turtles land is home to a large population of blue- nest (December to May) on this island. The footed boobies and swallow-tailed gulls. Galapagos petrel is found here, a sea bird It hosts one of the largest populations of which spends most of its life away from frigate birds. It was formed from geologi- land. At Post Office Bay, since the 18th cal uplift. Just north of Baltra airport is the century whalers kept a wooden barrel that small islet of North Seymour. North Sey- served as a post office so that mail could mour was created by seismic uplift rather be picked up and delivered to their destina- than being of volcanic origin. The island tion mainly by ships on their way home. has a flat profile with cliffs only a few me-

17 GalapaGos Islands

A Blue Footed Booby hello iguanas, and dolphins can be seen here. Dragon, known for its flamingo lagoon, is Pinta Island was home to the last remain- also located here, and along the trail one ing Pinta Tortoise, called lonesome George. may see land iguanas foraging. He does not live on Pinta Island any longer but at the Charles Darwin Research Station SANTA FE (BARRINGTON) ISLAND on Santa Cruz Island where scientists are Named after a city in Spain, Santa Fe hosts attempting to breed him. a forest of Opuntia cactus which are the largest of the archipelago and Palo Santo. RABIDA (JERVIS) ISLAND Weathered cliffs provide a haven for swal- It bears the name of the convent of Rabida low-tailed gulls, red-billed tropic birds, where Columbus left his son during his shearwater petrels. Santa Fe species of land voyage to the Americas. The high amount iguanas are often seen, as well as lava liz- of iron contained in the lava at Rabida gives ards. it a distinctive red color. White-Cheeked Pintail Ducks live in a salt-water lagoon SANTIAGO (SAN SALVADOR, close to the beach, where brown pelicans JAMES) ISLAND and boobies have built their nests. Up un- Its name is equivalent to Saint James in til recently, flamingos were also found in English. It is also known as San Salvador, tres from the shoreline where swallowtail the salt-water lagoon but they have since after the first island discovered by Colum- gulls and tropic birds sit perched in ledges. moved on to other islands, likely due to bus in the Caribbean Sea. Marine iguanas, A tiny forest of silver-grey Palo santotrees a lack of food on Rabida. Nine species of sea lions, fur seals, land and sea turtles, stand just above the landing, usually with- Finches have been reported in this island. flamingos, dolphins and sharks are found out leaves, waiting for rain to bring them San Cristobal (Chatham) Island. It bears here. Darwin finches and Galapagos hawks into bloom. The island is teeming with life. the name of the Patron Saint of seafarers, are usually seen as well as a colony of fur Visiting the island you may have to give St. Christopher. This is the first island in seals. way to a passing sea lion or marine igua- the Galapagos Archipelago that Charles na. Flocks of pelicans and swallow tailed Darwin visited during his voyage on the WOLF ISLAND gulls feed off shore and seasonally masked Beagle. This islands hosts frigate birds, sea This island was named after the German boobies can also be seen. North Seymour lions, giant tortoises, blue and red footed geologist Theodor Wolf. Here fur seals, is an extraordinary place for breeding boobies, tropicbirds, marine iguanas, dol- frigate birds, masked and red-footed birds and is home to one of the largest phins and swallow-tailed gulls. The largest boobies, marine iguanas, sharks, whales, populations of nesting blue-footed boo- fresh water lake in the archipelago, Laguna dolphins and swallow-tailed gulls can bies and magnificent frigate birds. Pairs of El Junco, is located in the highlands of San be seen. The most famous resident is the blue-footed boobies can be seen conduct- Cristobal. The capital of the province of vampire finch which feeds partly on blood ing their mating ritual as they offer each Galapagos, Puerto Baqueriso Moreno, lies pecked from other birds and is only found other gifts, whistle and honk, stretch their at the southern tip of the island. on this island. necks towards the sky, spread their wings, and dance—showing off their bright blue SANTA CRUZ ISLAND feet. Magnificent frigate birds perch in low It was given the name of the Holy Cross in Male Frigate Bird bushes, near the boobies, while watching Spanish. Santa Cruz is the island that hosts over their large chicks. Boobies and frigates the largest human population in the archi- have an interesting relationship. Boobies pelago in the town of Puerto Ayora. The are excellent hunters and fish in flocks. Charles Darwin Research Station and the The frigates by comparison are pirates, headquarters of the Galapagos National dive bomb the boobies to force them to Park Service are located here. The GNPS drop their prey. Then the acrobatic frigate and CDRS operate a tortoise breeding cen- swoops down and picks up the food before tre here, where young tortoises are hatched, it hits the water. reared, and prepared to be reintroduced to their natural habitat. The Highlands of PINZON (DUNCAN) ISLAND Santa Cruz offer exuberant vegetation and Named after the Pinzon brothers, captains are famous for lava tunnels. Large tortoise of the Pinta and Niña caravels. populations are found here. Black Turtle Cove is a site surrounded by mangrove PINTA (ABINGDON) ISLAND which sea turtles, rays and small sharks Named after the Pinta caravel. Sea lions, sometimes use as a mating area. Cerro Galapagos hawks, giant tortoises, marine

18 GalapaGos calendar JANUARY • Palo santo trees begin to shed their foliage common places for such sightings. • Beginning of the rainy season • Waved albatross on Espanola start laying SEPTEMBER their eggs • Land birds start nesting, generally after • Galapagos Penguins show remarkable the first rain Island adult marine iguanas • Ban-rumped storm petrels begin their activity on Bartolome. become brightly colored (green, red + first nesting period black) • Sea lions are very active. Females have JUNE reached estrus stage, and so harem-gath- • The green sea turtles arrive to beaches in ering males are constantly barking and GPS for egg laying period • Giant tortoises on Santa Cruz Island migrate from the highlands to the low- fighting. Shore fighting is heavy. Western • Land iguanas begin reproductive cycles lands in search of suitable nesting places and central islands are the most active on Isabela Island ones in terms of sea lions' activities. • Beginning of the nesting season of giant • Both, water and air temperatures rise tortoises • Most species of sea birds remain quite and stay warm until June active at their nesting sites. • Many red pouches by males of Magnifi- • Ideal time for snorkeling cent Frigate birds on North Seymour OCTOBER FEBRUARY • Southern migrants have started their • Lava herons start nesting until March • On Floreana Island greater flamingos journey towards the north. Galapagos is • The Galapagos Fur Sea lions begin their start nesting a rest stop for such birds. Some species mating period of cetaceans also follow this pattern of • Bahama pintail ducks (Black-tailed pin- • Blue footed boobies raise chicks all migration. tail) start their breeding season over Espanola and Punta Vicente Roca • Nazca (masked) boobies on Hood are at • Some groups of Humpback whales that Isabela migrate up to equatorial latitudes along the end of their nesting season • Giant tortoises are still laying eggs the coast of Ecuador can reach the Gala- • Marine iguanas nest on Santa Cruz pagos too. NOVEMBER Island • Pupping of sea lions continue. • Very few penguins are sighted at Barto- JULY • Sea lions are sexually active on the east- lome Island • Sea bird communities are very active ern part of the archipelago. • Nesting season of the Galapagos dove (breeding), especially the Blue footed • Breeding season for the brown noddies reaches its peak boobies on Espanola. Flightless cormorants perform beautiful courtship rituals • Some species of jellyfish can be seen MARCH and nesting activities on Fernandina. around the islands. The genus Physalia • Marine iguanas nest on Fernandina • If you walk along the shores of Puerto is commonly seen floating around Gard- • March 21st, the beginning of the sum- Egas Santiago Island you could find ner and Tortuga Islets. Some can also be mer equinox signals the arrival of the American oystercatchers nesting. seen stranded at the shores of the Flour waved albatross to Espanola. • Lava lizards initiate mating rituals until Beach at Florena • Even the western islands have warm November • Band-rumped storm petrels begin their waters where snorkeling is excellent. • Cetaceans (whales; dolphins) are more second nesting period likely to be observed, especially off the • Sea lion pups (especially at Champion APRIL western coast of Isabela Islet) play aqua-aerobics next to snorkel- • Massive arrival of waved albatrosses to ers. Most pups here are curious enough Espanola. Amazing courtship starts. • Great month to see the four stages of nesting in Blue footed boobies: eggs, to nibble at fins of snorkelers. The aver- • End of hatching season of the giant chicks, juveniles and sub adults. age age of most pups is 3-4 months. tortoises • Eggs of green sea turtles begin to hatch AUGUST DECEMBER • Hatching of giant tortoise's eggs begins • Eggs of land iguanas hatch on Isabela • Galapagos hawks court Espanola and Santiago and lasts until April • While the rains have ended, the islands • Green sea turtles display their mating quite continue green • Nazca (masked) boobies and Swallow- tailed gulls nest on Genovesa Island behavior MAY • Migrant shore birds start to arrive, and • First red pouches of Great frigate birds • North Seymour's blue-footed boobies stay on the islands until March seen at Genovesa begin their courtship • Giant tortoises return to the highlands • Northern migrants have started their • Sea turtles are still hatching on Gardner of Santa Cruz Island journey towards the south. Galapagos is Bay, Punta Cormorant, and Puerto Egas a rest stop for these birds. Some species • Pupping season (births) of sea lions has of Cetaceans also follow this pattern of • Most of marine iguanas' eggs hatch from started. Western and central islands are nests on Santa Cruz migration

19 Compiled by Robert Glazier, PANAMA GOWAY’S Goway Travel PEru Peru with remaining 6 month validity. GALAPAGOS COLOMBIA No visa is required for citizens of Canada ISLANDS and the United States. Other nationalities should check for requirements. ECUADOR HEALTH Medical care is generally good in Lima and Pacific usually adequate in other major cities but Ocean it is less so elsewhere in Peru. Urban private health care facilities are often better staffed and equipped than public or rural PERU ones. Public hospital facilities in Cuzco, BRAZIL the prime tourist destination, are generally inadequate to handle serious medical conditions. Although some private hospi- Machu tal facilities in Cuzco may be able to treat Lima Picchu acute medical problems, in general the se- Sacred riously ill traveler should return to Lima for Valley further care as soon as is medically feasible. Cusco BOLIVIA Juliaca CURRENCY The official currency unit is the Nuevo Sol Puno (100 centimos = 1 Sol). 2.63 Soles = CAD/ Lake USD$1. Titicaca ELECTRICITY The electrical current is 220 volts. A plug LOCATION CLIMATE CHILE adaptor could be an asset. North West of South American continent There is no one single climate in Peru - the deserts, jungles, mountain villages and DRINKING WATER AREA 1,285,200 sq. kms./496,225 sq. coastal cities are each under the influence Always drink bottled water. miles of different natural forces. And while there is no perfect time to see them all, February TELEPHONE POPULATION 29.5 million and March are fairly tolerable everywhere. Peru has a complete telephone network Lima 8 million; Cusco 360,000; The rainy season (a misnomer, really - it that covers almost all the national territory. Puno 100,000 rarely rains) is June to September in Lima Big cities and towns have a good telephon- and November to March in the mountains. ic service so calling in and out the country CAPITAL Lima North and east highlands are subject to isn't complicated. TIME GMT minus 5 hours heavy rain from October to April. Along the Amazon, it's always hot and humid Peruvian Women in traditional dress LANGUAGE (it is a jungle, after all). Be sure to take a The official language is Spanish but Que- sweater (or something heavier) if you're cha and other indigenous languages are going to Cuzco and Machu Picchu. common. Some English is spoken. BUSINESS HOURS ETHNIC GROUPS Generally business hours are from 9.00 to Ethnic groups consist of approximately 12.30 pm and from 4.00 pm to 7.00 pm. 45% Indigenous people, approximate- Monday to Friday and Saturday morning. ly 37% Mestizos (mixed ethnic back- grounds), approximately 15 % whites, and BANKING approximately 3% blacks as well as mulat- Foreign currencies can be exchanged at tos and other sections of the population. banks but also at Casas de Cambio (Ex- change Bureaus). ATM’s are available in RELIGION large urban areas. 89% of the population is Roman Catholic, 7% is evangelical and 4% other denomina- PASSPORT/VISA tions. A valid passport is required for entry into

20 peru General Info

CLOTHING Tuk Tuks in Peru? Local transport in Ollyantaytambo • Corvina is sea bass, which can be pre- The following list is very comprehensive pared in a variety of ways, and is always but will give an idea of the type of items an excellent choice. which are suitable. • Scallops (conchitas), mussels (choros), • 2 sets of light, comfortable traveling octopus (pulpo) and shrimps (cama- clothes. rones) are plentiful and delicious. • 1 set of casual but smart clothing for • Chupe de camarones is a chowder-type nights out or for when visiting churches soup made with shrimps, milk, eggs, and or museums. potatoes and peppers. • 3 pairs of shorts • Papa a la huancaina (yellow potato with 10% gratuity. It's customary to add an ex- cheese and chili sauce). • 1 hat tra 10% if the service has been satisfactory. • Arroz con choclo (rice with corn). • 1 water proof jacket (Gore-Tex is recom- Most Peruvians only tip one or two Sols at mended) small "mom and pop" restaurants that do • Cau cau (tripe cooked with potato, pep- • Sunglasses not add a tip to the bill. Taxis do not expect pers and parsley). • Prescription glasses if necessary tips. Fares are negotiated prior to initiating • Causa relleña (potato cakes with the trip. Hotel porters and bell boys expect chicken in the centre, but also cooked • 1 pair Tevas or sandals a tip of $1 per bag. with avocado or crabmeat). • 1 pair of good walking boots (water proofed is recommended) TAXIS NATIONAL DRINKS • Swimming suit If going further, a taxi ride between adja- Fresh juices (jugos) are prepared with wa- cent neighborhoods costs about 6 Soles, if • Torch or flash light with batteries. (See ter, or milk (batido). The variety is huge you speak Spanish well enough. A longer attached “responsible Tourism for meth- and reaches from the normal orange juice ride may cost from 9 to 21. A reasonable ods of battery disposal) (jugo de naranja) to the delicious avocado price for a taxi service between the airport milkshake (batido de aguacate). Fresh juic- • Water bottle of at least one litre and Miraflores is about 35 Soles, but may es, sold on the streets are not always recom- • A money belt cost more from within the airport. By cus- mendable because sometimes the water is • Camera or Video camera or both. It tom, taxis do not have metres; rather, the not boiled or the ice is not clean. is easy to re-charge batteries whilst in fare should be negotiated before boarding Here is a little selection of the common Quito or when travelling. It is recom- the taxi, or, if you request one by phone, fruits to prepare juices: aguacate (avocado), mended that you bring spare batteries at booking time. If asking for a ride on the araza, babaco, banano (banana), chiri- for the jungle section of your trip. street, don't be fooled into getting into the moya (custard apple), coco (coconut), du- • Film. Good quality film is available cab before a rate is negotiated. Be also very razno (peach), fresa or frutilla (strawber- in Quito but at a higher price than in discerning about which taxi you choose, ry), granadilla (pomegranate), guanabana, North America. Film speed of 400ASA and avoid hailing random cabs off the guayaba (guava), limon (lemon), mandari- is recommended for general lighting street as much as possible. na (tangerine), mango (mango), manzana conditions. (apple), maracuya (passion fruit), melon FOOD (melon), mora (blackberry), naranja (or- • A day pack large enough to carry your The hot and spicy nature of Peruvian food ange), naranjílla (some kind of a citrus fleece or Gore-Tex, camera, water bottle is created by hot peppers and garlic. Peruvi- fruit), papaya (papaya), pera (pear), piña etc. ans enjoy a wide variety of vegetables; there (pineapple), sandía (water- melon), taxo, • Small storage bag for miscellaneous are over 2000 kinds of indigenous and cul- tomate de arbol, toronja (grapefruit), tuna items. tivated potatoes alone. (cactus fig), zanahoria (carrot). • Sewing kit NATIONAL SPECIALITIES The most consumed alcoholic drink is • Alarm Clock • Tropical fruits are abundant, as are besides the burning punta (a home-made • Pocket calculator avocados. sugar-cane liquor), beer (cerveza). There • Diary and writing materials • Ceviche is a local speciality (uncooked are two brands in Ecuador: the clear Pilsen- er and Club. A cool Nevada that is almost • Leatherman or Swiss Army knife fish marinated in lemon or lime juice and hot chili pepper, served with fried only available in the south (in one litre • Please DO NOT BRING PLASTIC BAGS. bottles) is like European beers. Ziplocs that are used are expected to corn, sweet potatoes, onions and fla- Good wine (vino), particularly red wine return home with you. voured with coriander). • Escabeche is a cooked fish appetizer from Chile, Argentina, California or Spain TIPPING eaten cold, served with peppers and is sold in big supermarkets. Much better Most restaurant and bar bills include a onions. brands you will find in small liquor shops. juice) are also very popular drinks. At village

21 peru General Info parties in the Andean highland (fiestas del recognized by the quality of the materials CREDIT AND DEBIT CARDS pueblo), and in Quito's district parties (fi- used such as the "baby alpaca" (wool from Of the major credit cards such as Visa, Mas- estas del barrio), is served Canelazo, a spicy the first cut) and by the especial designs. In terCard, American Express and Diner's Club, hot sugar-cane liquor with cinnamon. Chi- general they reproduce paintings of Andean you will find Visa the most widely accepted cha is a fermented, thick drink of maize, ba- women, low houses of Andean towns or in Peru. All of the major cities have numer- nanas, manioc Quinua or Chonta palm. It is Inca monuments. If you want to purchase ous ATMs, so withdrawing cash is easy. prepared particularly in the Amazon region an excellent product, we recommend you to Credit cards can also be used to pay shop, and is said to have a beneficial effect against buy an imitation of this textile. hotel and restaurant bills but users should kidney stone, constipation and colic. note that they will be charged between 5% INCA ARTS AND CRAFTS and 10% commission, so ask first. SHOPPING Pottery is another important art in this Hint: it is always a good idea to inform In Lima, as well as in many of the regional town. The most notable sample is the your bank or credit card company that you market places, the best quality and value aribalo: a container made in different sizes will be visiting Peru. If you don't, it is pos- lies in handcrafted products. This particu- generally representing the Incas. The pot- sible that your cards will not be accepted. larly applies to gold, silver and copper tery from Cusco is decorated with exter- work and textiles. Colourful textiles such as nal shapes while the designs of the jungle By far, the best way to withdraw money alpaca garments and woven tapestries are come from old beliefs and myths. from an ATM is by using a direct-debit card such as Visa. On withdrawal, the money is available in every market and every price Another famous artisan representation in immediately deducted from your bank ac- range. Each region has its own distinctive Cusco is the retablos: multicolor objects count and no interest is charged so long as crafts. It is so easy and convenient to shop made with plaster where they show dif- you have sufficient funds back home. The everywhere in Peru. Many tourists also take ferent little figures. There are also multi- exchange rate is excellent. home reproductions of pre-Columbian ce- color wood retablos with sambleños (little ramics with gourds being a great favorite. characters of saints, magicians, children, SECURITY Visitors to the jungle may have the oppor- etc). Finally you won't be able to miss the Safety in Peru is improving. Thieves are tunity to purchase traditional handicrafts, wonderful paintings from Cusco especially the biggest problem; be especially cautious including adornments (necklaces worn the paintings in water color which are real in crowded areas, on public transport, in for tribal dances), utensils (baskets, food master pieces cheap enough. Among the bus and train stations, and in the centre of bowls, hunting bags), and weapons (bows, jewels, you will find earrings, bracelets, Lima at night. Poverty levels, unemploy- arrows, spears). Artesanias are the best collar and orejeras(earflaps) similar to the ment and corruption in South America in- place to find unique quality goods. There jewels found in Inca tombs. Silver work is evitably lead to higher crime rates than in are also fashionable stores in the commer- also good. The most important is the Lin- other parts of the world such as Europe and cial streets of Miraflores and San Isidro, but eas (lines). Thus, in Cusco you will find the North America. While Peru suffers from the prices are high. Alpaca products are most varied jewellery you won't be able to these same problems, it is not, as a whole, well worth buying, as long as you are pre- miss. You can purchase all of these won- a dangerous place. Don’t forget the prin- pared to hand wash them with great care. derful objects in shops and artisan fairs of cipal safety rules which can be applied to Vendors will often tell you their goods are Cusco and districts of the valley. The arti- any part of the world – especially in large made from Alpaca “bebe.” This does not san fair of Pisaq offers you the best hats, urban areas. The following Peru safety tips mean baby alpacas, but refers to the wool tapestries, sweaters, pottery and wonderful are fundamental practices which can be ap- taken from the throat of the animal, where coverlets of alpaca skin. plied throughout South America. it is at its finest and softest. • Do not walk at night laden with luggage Cusco is not only a place of immense geo- and backpacks – take a taxi. Stick to well- graphic beauties but it is also sheltering the lit streets rather than dark, deserted side biggest variety of goods among pieces of streets. textile art, pottery and jewels that you can buy at good prices. • Take cash out of ATMs during the day. Don’t carry more cash than is necessary – Among the products of textile art, you may avoid carrying credit cards. find the finest items in alpaca and sheep wool. The most important are the sweaters • Expensive jewellery, watches, bags etc. are and ponchos, gloves, chullos (hats), scarves, an unnecessary luxury – they only draw un- cloth, rucksacks and waistcoats with nice wanted attention to the wearer. designs. You will also find a wide variety The best way to prevent crime is using your of tapestries made with sheep wool, or if common sense. This reduces the likelihood you prefer of alpaca. Although it is more of being a crime victim simply by follow- expensive, we guaranty their excellent high ing a few basic precautions. quality. Textile art in this place is worldwide Witness demonstrations of local weaving - Urubamabe Valley

22 peru The geography of Peru is as beautiful and diverse as the country itself. Peru is located in Western South America. The country borders Brazil and Bolivia to the east, Ecua- dor and Colombia to the north and Chile to the east. Peru is the 18th largest nation in the world. Though Peru is predominant- ly mountainous, the country can be divided into three main geographical zones - the coast, the mountains, and the Amazon rainforest. The coastal region in the west is a narrow plain consisting of large tracts of deserts dotted with fertile valleys, while the Andes dominate the Peruvian topography. The Amazon rainforest area lies between the Andes and the eastern border with Bra- zil. The Peruvian coastline features amazing deserts, beautiful beaches and fertile valleys. The popular topographic features of Peruvian coast include Sechura Desert, the Atacama Desert and the Nazca Plains. The mountainous area of Peru is domi- Peru's capital - Lima nated by the Andes, where Mt Huascaran rises up to 6,768 metres (22,350 feet). You will find hundreds of permanently SIGHTSEEING: LIMA glaciated snow-covered peaks and valleys; Lima is Peru's capital and is actually the second largest desert city in existence. The many beautiful lakes, including Lake Titi- landscape of Lima is diverse and ranges from rustic shantytowns, to modern shopping caca (3,809 metres/12,600 feet) as well as centres, gleaming high-rise hotels, exceptional seafood restaurants and an entertaining unique and diverse flora and fauna in the nightlife Peruvian Andes. The vast tropical forest in the Amazon River Basin is another major The city has evolved into a fast-paced Peruvian metropolis and although this is very geographical feature of Peru covering ap- much a 21st-century city, you won't have far to travel to find interesting colonial build- proximately 63 percent of the area of the ings, pre-Inca pyramids, historical churches and other tourist attractions. In no time, country. Peru enjoys a varied climate, and Lima can transport you from crumbling pre-Inca pyramids and the waning splendor of the Andes and the cold Humboldt Cur- Spanish colonial architecture to glitzy, ultramodern shopping malls and many of the rent are the major determining factors of country’s best museums. You can feast on fresh seafood by the ocean, go paragliding Peruvian climate. On a visit to Peru, you'll off the cliffs in Miraflores and spend all night in bohemian Barranco’s bars and clubs. find hot and humid tropical climate in the Amazon area, mild and pleasant temper- Plaza De Armas (Main Square) of the wooden seats of the choir, the heav- ate climate in the coastal region, hot and It was Francisco Pizarro, the founder of ily ornamented "Inmaculada" chapel of dry desert climate in western Peru as well Lima who determined the area for the baroque style and an ivory Christ carved by as a temperate to cool climate in the Andes square as well as the location for the Gov- Martinez Montañez, a splendid gift from Mountains. ernment House (now Government Pal- King Charles V Entering the church there ace), the Cathedral and the Cabildo (Town is a chapel which holds the remains of the Church of San Francisco and the Catacombs - Lima Hall). Today, this square continues to occu- conqueror Francisco Pizarro. In the sacristy py the same original area, in the middle of there is a museum of religious art. which there is a splendid bronze fountain dating back to 1650. Government Palace Also known as the House of Pizarro be- The Cathedral cause since the foundation of Lima, this It was initially devoted to Our Lady of As- was the place where the conqueror worked sumption. Almost entirely destroyed dur- and lived until his death in 1541. It has ing the 1746 earthquake, the Viceroy Jose magnificent halls such as the Salon Dorado Antonio Manso de Velasco Conde de Su- where important paintings are exhibited. It perunda had it rebuilt in 1758. Its interior also has an elegant area which is the offi- is remarkable for the intricate carving work cial residence of the President of Peru. It

23 peru is recommended to attend the change of guard which takes place daily at 11:45 am. at the front esplanade.

anto Domingo Church and Monastery Dates from the end of the l6th century. On the left, the Virgin of the Rosary is vener- ated. To the fight there is an altar for Peru- vian saints: Santa Rosa de Lima, San Martin de Porras and San Juan Masias. Under each of the images there is a silver urn contain- ing relics of these saints. The tower of the church is of a singular architectural style, and the monastery is one of the best preserved in Lima.

San Francisco Church This colonial architectural complex includes the monastery, the church of San Francisco and the chapels of La Soledad and El Milagro. The monastery, cloisters Local girls in the Urubamba Valley en route to Machu Picchu and entrance hall are embellished with authentic Sevillian tiles dating back to 1620. Also remarkable are its Museum of SIGHTSEEING: CUSCO Religious Art, the Zurbaran room and the Often referred to as the 'Archaeological Capital of the Americas' Cusco is a beauti- library. The complex was built over under- ful city riddled with contrasts between the indigenous styles and the modern western ground galleries or catacombs which were world. It is these contrasts that have given Cusco its rare beauty. The first thing that hits used as cemeteries during the colony. These the newly arrived visitor to Cusco are the Inca walls; enormous granite blocks carved can be visited. to fit together perfectly without the aid of mortar beds. Many of the walls were simply built upon during the construction of a new Spanish city. It is a tribute to the Incas Rafael Larco Herrera Archaeological that their anti seismic design has survived the test of time while the Spanish colonial Museum architecture has been rebuilt several times following a wave of earthquakes that, in the Interesting collection of ceramics, textiles past, have hit the city. When arriving in Cusco, you will immediately notice the thin and gold and silver work, especially from clear mountain air, a result of the City's high altitude. The first day in particular should the northern civilizations. There is also a be spent quietly relaxing and taking things easy as you gently acclimatize. Cusco is a room with erotic ceramics and a vault con- beautiful colonial city with many wonderful churches and courtyards. However, the taining pieces of gold and jewelry. importance of the city was greatest before the arrival of the Spanish, when it was the Palacio De Torre Tagle capital of the Inca Empire – the most important city in an area stretching from Colom- Present headquarters of the Peruvian Min- bia to Argentina. In recent years the city has once again regained its important status, istry of Foreign Affairs. This mansion dates this time becoming the capital of Peru’s tourism industry. When sitting in the Plaza de back to the early 18th century. Its main par- Armas it can appear that there are more foreigners in Cusco than locals. However, even ticularity is the inspiration of the Sevillian, in this city with its tourists, it is relatively easy to escape the crowds by walking up one Mudejar and Criollo styles in its architecture. of the quiet side streets. Since Peru’s independence, Cusco has remained an important It has a stone portico and two carved balco- town, There are some indigenous Peruvians who feel that Peru’s true capital is still nies, considered the most beautiful in Lima. Cusco, and there is a legend that says that when an orange tree in the Convent of Santa Catalina in Arequipa gives fruit, an earthquake will swallow up Arequipa, Lima will disappear in a tidal wave, and Cusco will become the country’s capital. Cusco’s pride in its Inca heritage re-emerged strongly in the latter half of the 20th century. The official name of the city is now Qosqo, closer to the Quechua pronunciation of the Inca city’s name, and the Inca flag can now be seen throughout the city. The re-enactment of the Inti Raymi festival, discontinued after the capture of Cusco by the Spanish, was reintroduced in 1944. For modern day visitors to Cusco, the city is a beautiful place to explore for a few days, enjoying its centre, and it makes a wonderful base from which to explore the many, many nearby attractions. The city has some fine hotels and good restaurants, and has the best services in the country outside of Lima. There are many fine crafts from the surrounding areas for sale in the city.

24 peru

Plaza De Armas World UNESCO Heritage site of Cusco - ancient capital of the Incas One of the most popular tourist attractions in Cusco, it was called Huacaypata or Square of the Warrior during the time of Incas. The ancient plaza was the most sig- nificant ceremonial place throughout the history of Cusco. It also houses the churches of the Cathedral and the Society of Jesus.

Koricancha (Temple of the Sun) Koricancha was the most sacred and respected temples of Cusco during the Inca Empire. Dedicated to the worship of the sun, this extraordinarily crafted temple was once home to 4,000 priests and their atten- dants. Koricancha also served as the main astronomical observatory for the Incas.

Ailla Wasi (House of the Chosen Women or Sun Virgins) A huge house on the main square of Cusco, Ajlla Wasi used to host the beautiful chosen virgins during Inca times. The virgins that lived in the Ajlla Wasi were entirely devoted to the worship of the Sun God.

Saint Blas District Located close to the Cusco Main Square, Saint Blas District is one of the most picturesque Communities of the Artisans, or the "District of the Artists", of Cusco. It houses numerous workshops and stores of famous popular artists like Hilario Mendívil, Edil- berto Mérida, Santiago Rojas and Maximil- iano Palomino. Other popular sites of interest in Cusco include the Inca Roca's Palaces, Church of Santo Domingo, Museo de Arte Religioso (Museum of Religious Art), Museo Palacio Municipal, and Museo de Historia Nacional. most intricate and best preserved. The site is should look like. Other items such as the SACRED VALLEY larger than it appears when you see it from colourful spices, fruits and items of daily The Urubamba Valley is also known as “El the entrance. The stonework of some of the needs are much more interesting as they are Valle Sagrado de los Incas”, or the Sacred temples of Pisac is exquisite. Even though intended for locals. Valley of the Incas. It is near Cusco with a the site is not nearly as impressive as Machu pleasant climate perfectly suited for farm- Picchu (nothing really is), the stonework is SACSAYHUAMAN ing. Ancient ruins, gentle mountain slopes amazing. The city of Pisac lies at the foot of Sacsayhuamán is one of the most amaz- and scattered farming towns define the val- the hills on top of which the ruins stand. ing Incan constructions. Its Quechua name ley. The same properties that make the val- Most tourists will simply pass through here, means "satisfied falcon" as it was the fal- ley attractive for today’s tourist were also which does not do this dreamy little city con that guarded the capital of the empire, the reason why the Inca chose this valley for justice. The Sunday market at Pisac is a cha- since it was possible to overlook Cusco their permanent settlements. The valley also otic and colourful mixture of vendors and from the hill in where it was erected. If, served as a gateway to the jungle and was buyers. Many of the items are of interest as it is known, Cusco was designed with easily defendable. Pisac is the most impres- only to tourists such as wall carpets, flutes the shape of a lying puma, Sacsayhuamán sive of all sites in the Sacred Valley. When and other things specifically designed to ap- would be its head, and the Coricancha you enter these ruins for the first time, hold peal to what tourists imagine Peruvian art would correspond to the feline's genita- your breath. The farming terraces are the lia. Its construction took place over seven

25 peru decades and required the work of 20,000 boat, you won't be swimming here. One of aguay and Amazon rivers and from the re- men approximately, both for the founda- the more curious Lake Titicaca facts has to gion of modern Quito in Ecuador south to tions and hewn stone works, the trans- do with its number of islands. There are 41 the Maule River in Chile. This vast empire portation of materials, carving and stone of them, and a good amount of people call was a theocracy, organized along socialis- setting. The spectacular fortress was built them home. The Uros Islands are probably tic lines and ruled by an Inca, or emperor, with huge carved rocks joined with abso- the most curious. In Puno, you will visit the who was worshipped as a divinity. Because lute accuracy. This astounding example of Uros Islands, which are made from the tor- the Inca realm contained extensive depos- the Incan military architecture is, undoubt- tora reed. These islands float and the natives its of gold and silver, it became in the early edly, the greatest architectural work of the who live here carry on a tradition that goes 16th century a target of Spanish imperial Tahuantinsuyo. It is located 2 km (1 mile) back thousands of years. Titicaca is notable ambitions in the Americas. In November away from the city of Cusco, for a population of people who live on the 1995 anthropologists announced the dis- Uros Islands. These islands have become a covery of the 500-year-old remains of two LAKE TITICACA major tourist attraction for Peru drawing Inca women and one Inca man frozen in Lake Titicaca is a most sacred place when it excursions from the lakeside city of Puno. the snow on a mountain peak in Peru. Sci- comes to Inca religion and mythology, as it Their original purpose was defensive and entists concluded that the trio was part of a was here that the first Inca king, Manco Ca- they could be moved if a threat arose. Many human sacrifice ritual on Ampato, a sacred pac, was born by the sun god, Inti. Manco of the islands contain watchtowers largely peak in the Andes mountain range. Arti- would create the Kingdom of Cusco, thus constructed of reeds. The artificial islands of facts from the find unveiled new informa- beginning the Inca Empire. The deepest Uros are among Peru's top tourist attractions tion about the Inca and indicated the use point in the lake is some 930 feet. It is found and you can purchase handmade crafts here of poles and tents rather than traditional on the larger side. The average depth of Lake that will make for great souvenirs. stone structures. The arrangement of doll- Titicaca is 350 feet, and perhaps due to the size statuettes dressed in feathers and fine coverage of the surrounding snow-covered THE HISTORY OF woolens provided clues about Inca reli- peaks, the lake's waters are generally quite gious and sacrificial practices. calm. When it is cloudy, the lake takes on PERU AND THE INCA In 1532 Spanish soldier and adventurer a greyish hue but when the sun is out, its Francisco Pizarro landed in Peru with a soft blue tone makes for a truly beautiful CIVILIZATION force of about 180 men. Conditions were setting. The water in Lake Titicaca comes The Inca, sometimes called people of the favorable for conquest as the empire was from a combination of rainfall and meltwa- sun, were originally a warlike tribe living debilitated by a just-concluded civil war be- ter. Glaciers in the sierra and throughout the in a semiarid region of the southern sierra. tween the heirs to the Inca throne, Atahual- Altiplano region feed five major rivers that From 1100 to 1300 the Inca moved north pa and Huascar, each of whom was seeking end at the lake. Some 20 other smaller rivers into the fertile Cusco Valley. From there to control the empire. This internal dissen- also feed into the lake, and due to the sourc- they overran the neighboring lands. By sion, plus the terror inspired by Spanish es, the water is quite cold. Suffice it to say 1500 the Inca Empire stretched from the guns and horses—unknown to the indig- that unless you somehow fall out of a tour Pacific Ocean east to the sources of the Par- enous peoples until then—made it rela-

The famous ruins of Machu Picchu

26 peru tively easy for only a handful of Spaniards of land tenure consisting of European land- ruling through lower-level officials made to conquer this vast empire. The Spaniards lords and indigenous workers. This system up of Native Americans who dealt directly met Atahualpa, the victor in the civil war succeeded in solidly establishing a privi- with the indigenous population. This sys- and his army at a prearranged conference leged and wealthy landed aristocracy early tem lasted for almost 200 years. at Cajamarca in 1532. When Atahualpa ar- in the Colonial period. Little was done to In 1780 a force of 60,000 Native Americans rived, the Spaniards ambushed and seized educate the masses of peoples. As a result, revolted against Spanish rule under the him, and killed thousands of his followers. Colonial Peru was a divided society, con- leadership of Peruvian patriot José Gabriel Although Atahualpa paid the most fabu- sisting of a small class that owned the land Condorcanqui who adopted the name of an lous ransom known to history—a room and controlled education, political, mili- ancestor, the Inca Tupac Amarú. Although full of gold and another full of silver— tary, and religious power, and of a large, initially successful, the uprising was crushed for his freedom, the Spaniards murdered mostly indigenous class (about 90 percent in 1781. The Spanish tor- him in 1533. The Spanish tured and executed Con- destroyed many of the irriga- Sacsayhuaman and the Incan Inti Raymi Festival - available on our June departures dorcanqui and thousands tion projects and the north- of his fellow revolution- south roads that had knit the aries. The Spanish sup- empire together, speeding the pressed another revolt in disintegration of the empire. 1814. Subsequently, how- By November 1533 Cuzco had ever, opposition to Impe- fallen with little resistance. In rial rule grew throughout addition, the indigenous pop- Spanish South America. ulation declined rapidly as a The opposition was led result of new diseases brought largely by Creoles, people by the Spaniards, diseases to of Spanish descent born which the Inca had no immu- in South America. Cre- nity. Members of the Inca dy- oles grew to resent the nasty took refuge in the moun- fact that the Spanish gov- tains and were able to resist ernment awarded all im- the Spaniards for about four portant government posi- decades. However, by 1572 the tions in the Colonies to Spaniards had executed the Spaniards born in Spain last Inca ruler, Tupac Amarú, who were called Penin- along with his advisers and sulares. Freedom from his family. In 1535 Pizarro Spanish rule, however, founded on the banks of the was imported to Peru by Rímac River the Peruvian capital city of Ci- of the total population) that remained outsiders. In September 1820 Argentine udad de los Reyes (Spanish for “City of the landless, illiterate, and exploited. In 1542 soldier and patriot José de San Martín, who Kings”; present-day Lima). Subsequently, a Spanish imperial council introduced stat- had defeated the Spanish forces in Chile, disputes over jurisdictional powers broke utes called New Laws for the Indies which landed an invasion army at the seaport of out among the Spanish conquerors, or were designed to put a stop to cruelties Pisco, Peru. On July 12, 1821, San Martín's conquistadors, and in 1541 a member of inflicted on the Native Americans. In the forces entered Lima, which had been aban- one of the conflicting Spanish factions as- same year Spain created the Viceroyalty of doned by Spanish troops. Peruvian inde- sassinated Pizarro in Lima. Peru which comprised all Spanish South pendence was proclaimed formally on July The Inca civilization had unified what are America and Panama, except what is now 28, 1821. The struggle against the Spanish now Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia and cre- Venezuela. The first Spanish viceroy arrived was continued later by Venezuelan revolu- ated an integrated society. The Spanish, in Peru in 1544 and attempted to enforce tionary hero Simón Bolívar who entered whose main aims were plunder and the the New Laws, but the conquistadores re- Peru with his armies in 1822. In 1824, in conversion of native tribes to Christianity, belled and, in 1546, killed the viceroy. Al- the battles of Junín on August 6 and of Aya- stopped the development of the indigenous though the Spanish government crushed cucho on December 9, Bolívar's forces rout- civilization. The Spaniards treated the Inca the rebellion in 1548, the New Laws were ed the Spanish. ruthlessly, using their labor to produce the never put into effect. In 1569 Spanish colo- minerals needed in Spain. The result was nial administrator Francisco de Toledo ar- the creation of a psychic chasm between rived in Peru. During the ensuing 14 years the Inca and the Europeanized population, he established a highly effective, although a chasm that has endured for more than harshly repressive, system of government. 400 years. The Spanish introduced a system Toledo's method of administration con- sisted of a government of Spanish officials

27 famous ecuadorIans

Darwin formed his theory of evolution in the quiring thousands to millions of years; ings while circumnavigating the globe. The Galapagos three, the primary mechanism for evolu- chronometric readings are related to the tion was a process called natural selection; way in which navigators determine longi- and four, the millions of species alive to- tude. If a sailor knows what local time cor- day arose from a single original life form responds to noon Greenwich Time, then through a branching process called specia- he simply takes a sighting on the angle of tion. Darwin's theory of evolutionary se- the sun, knowing that at noon, the sun is lection holds that variation within species directly overhead in Greenwich. It is then a occurs randomly and that the survival or simple calculation to determine how many extinction of each organism is determined degrees he has travelled from Greenwich. by that organism's ability to adapt to its The unofficial mission was to repatriate environment. He set these theories forth in three Tierra del Fuegian natives captured his book called, On the Origin of Species by Fitzroy during the previous voyage of by Means of Natural Selection, or the Pres- the Beagle. Fuegians were normally hostile ervation of Favoured Races in the Struggle to shipwrecked sailors and Fitzroy hoped for Life (1859) or “The Origin of Species” that by educating these captives and teach- for short. After publication of The Origin ing them English manners, they would of Species, Darwin continued to write on ultimately convert their countrymen to de- botany, geology, and zoology until his veloping a friendly attitude towards sailors. death in 1882. He is buried in Westminster Fitzroy was terrified of the loneliness and Abbey. isolation that he would face as captain (the Darwin's work had a tremendous impact captain on the previous voyage, on which CHARLES DARWIN Naturalist, on religious thought. Many people strong- Fitzroy was first mate, committed suicide, 1809 -1882 ly opposed the idea of evolution because and Fitzroy himself was emotionally high- it conflicted with their religious convic- strung and mentally unstable). As captain Charles Robert Darwin was born on Febru- of an English ship, he would be restricted ary 12, 1809 in Shrewsbury, England. He tions. Darwin avoided talking about the theological and sociological aspects of his from any close relationships with his crew. was born on the same day as Abraham Lin- He therefore hit upon the idea of inviting coln, the fifth child and second son of Rob- work, but other writers used his theories to support their own theories about soci- a gentleman of appropriate social standing ert Waring Darwin and Susannah Wedg- to be his guest and companion. In return, wood. Darwin was the British naturalist ety. Darwin was a reserved, thorough, hard working scholar who concerned himself the companion would have a rare opportu- who became famous for his theories of nity to visit exotic locales and see new and evolution and natural selection. Like sev- with the feelings and emotions not only of his family, but friends and peers as well. It wondrous sights. The position was offered eral scientists before him, Darwin believed to the naturalist and clergyman Leonard all the life on Earth evolved (developed has been supposed that Darwin renounced evolution on his deathbed. Shortly after Jenyns, who declined because of his par- gradually) over millions of years from a ish responsibilities. Jenyns recommended few common ancestors. In 1831, Darwin his death, temperance campaigner and evangelist Lady Elizabeth Hope claimed John Henslow, a famed botanist and cler- set out on HMS Beagle as a self-financed gyman, who declined because of his family gentleman companion to the 26-year-old she visited Darwin at his deathbed, and witnessed the renunciation. Her story was situation. Henslow, who was also Darwin's captain, Robert Fitzroy. The Beagle was on friend and mentor, recommended Darwin a British science expedition around the printed in a Boston newspaper and subsequently spread. Lady Hope's story was re- as the best qualified person who would be world. In South America Darwin found likely to accept. fossils of extinct animals that were similar futed by Darwin's daughter Henrietta who to modern species. On the Galapagos Is- stated, “I was present at his deathbed ... He Darwin's father, Robert, was most unhappy lands in the Pacific Ocean he noticed many never recanted any of his scientific views, about the situation and forbade him to ac- variations among plants and animals of the either then or earlier.” cept the offer. But he did leave an out by same general type as those in South Amer- saying that if Charles could find one rea- His Journey To The Galapagos ica. The expedition visited places around sonable man to convince him otherwise, His theory of evolution by natural selec- the world and Darwin studied plants and then he would allow Charles to go. Darwin tion originated during a five-year voyage animals everywhere he went collecting enlisted the aid of his uncle, Josiah Wedge- around the world as a naturalist on board specimens for further study. Upon his re- wood, and finally received his father's HMS Beagle under the command of Cap- turn to London in 1836, Darwin conduct- blessing. The Beagle departed on 27 De- tain Robert Fitzroy. The voyage had three ed a thorough research of his notes and cember 1831 on what was meant to have missions, two official and one unofficial. specimens. Out of this study grew several been a three-year voyage but returned on 2 The official missions were to map the east related theories: one, evolution did occur; October 1836. On 16 September 1835 the and west coasts of South America, and to two, evolutionary change was gradual, re- Beagle reached the Galapagos Archipelago. complete a series of chronometric read-

28 famous ecuadorIans During his five weeks in the Galapagos, Dar- sity of Miami. He won the NCAA Singles nis players in the past century. win found the giant tortoises that differed Championships for three straight years - Different from Cuba (communist dicta- from one another so greatly that anybody in 1943, 1944, and 1945. He was also the torship) and Venezuela (military dictator- with half an eye could immediately say No. 3 ranked American player during those ship), Ecuador is a democratic state based which island they came from. Two forms of years. He won the U.S. Indoors in 1946 and on a representative government. Like Vol- iguanas lived in the islands. Each type had U.S. Clay Courts in 1944 but was never able cans National Park (Rwanda), Tropical affinities with the common South Ameri- to win the United States Championships at Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra (Indone- can green iguana, yet they had adapted so Forest Hills, NY although he reached the sia), Ha Long Bay (Vietnam) and Iguazu profoundly to different ecologic niches in Semi-finals a number of times. Long before Waterfalls (Argentina and Brazil), Gala- the islands that they had evolved into sepa- Segura turned professional in 1947, he was pagos National Park is one of the natural rate genera. Many islands developed their an immediate crowd-pleaser with his win- wonders of the World. In Ecuador we can own races of these unusual lizards. Many ning smile, infectiously humorous manner find more than 1.445 species of birds (com- of the birds that Darwin found, especially and unorthodox but deadly game. Segura pared to only 600 in the United States). the land birds, were endemic species found probably played more matches against top Ecuador is famous in Latin America as the nowhere else on earth. Here were thirteen players than anyone in history. After leav- birthplace of Oswaldo Guayasamín, one of different types of finches whose beaks were ing the Professional Tour, Segura became the best painters of the 20th century. The modified to different sub-environments on a teaching professional at the La Costa biodiversity of Ecuador is one of its greatest the islands. The Galapagos Islands were Resort in Southern California where he riches. Bird life is prolific. volcanic in nature and relatively recently is now retired. He is widely credited with formed, Darwin reasoned, and the animals helping coach, mentor, and structure the Ecuador ranks fifth in the world for the that dwelt there had to have come from playing game of a young Jimmy Connors. number of species it hosts Ecuador was a someplace else. Those most closely resem- Segura was inducted into the International founding member of the United Nations bling the Galapagos community were the Hall of Fame for Tennis in 1984. in 1945. Ecuador is rich in resources such animals that lived closest to the islands on as shrimps, bananas, flowers, coffee and the mainland. But they were not the same INTERESTING FACTS petroleum. animals. Why? Why? That was the question Rosalía Arteaga Serrano de Fernández de that plagued Darwin. Why? Eight years af- The term Ecuador means equator in Span- Cordova was elected president of Ecua- ter his return, Darwin wrote to his close ish. In fact, the country has been named dor for 3 days (February 9, 1997-February friend and colleague, Sir Joseph Hooker: after equator, which passes through it. Ec- 11, 1997). She was Ecuador´s first female "At last gleams of light have come, and I uador was a part of the Inca Empire, before president. the arrival of the Spanish, in 1534. The ma- am almost convinced (quite to the contrary With a total area of nearly 109,500 sq. km, jority of the balsa wood in the world comes to the opinion I started with) that species Ecuador is bigger than the United King- from Ecuador. Quinine, the first drug used are not (it is like confessing a murder) im- dom, Israel, Luxembourg, Singapore, Bah- to prevent and treat malaria, is obtained mutable." According to Genesis, God cre- rain and Hong Kong combined. More than from the bark of the cinchona tree that ated all plants and animals, and they have 13 million people live here. Ecuador is one grows in the Andes mountain range, in Ec- not changed significantly since that time. of the oldest republics in the Third World. uador and Peru. The guinea pig is consid- Yet the only way that Darwin could ex- Ecuador became an independent country ered to be a delicacy in Ecuador. Quito is plain all of his observations was that they in 1822. Ecuadorian culture reflects a mix- said to have the most pleasant temperature had indeed changed. The pivotal role of ture of Spanish, African and native Indian in the world and has been given the name the Galapagos Islands in shaping Darwin's influences, similar in many respects to the of the “Land of Eternal Spring”. new world view is clear from a passage in traditions of Peru and Colombia. Christina María Aguilera, who is a famous his ornithological notebooks. María Soledad Diab Aguilar is one of the American singer, has Ecuadorian origin. most beautiful women of all time. She PANCHO SEGURO Her father was born in Guayaquil, Ecua- was named Miss Ecuador Photogenic dur- Pancho Seguro, born Francisco Olegario dor. Only 26 years, she has already made a ing the Miss Universe in 1992 Beauty Pag- Segura (June 20, 1921, known as "Segoo"), place for herself in the world of American eant held in Bangkok. Frederick Ashton, a was leading a leading tennis player of the music. Ecuador has many famous people, world-famous dancer and choreographer, 1940s and 1950s, both as an amateur and Oswaldo Guayasamín (painter), Jorge was born on September 17, 1904, in Guay- as a professional. In 1950 and 1952, as a Icaza Coronel (writer), Jefferson Leonardo aquil, Ecuador. professional, he was the World number one Perez Quesada (Olympic sports person), player. He was born in Guayaquil, Ecuador Betty Pino (journalist), José Ayala Lasso The Galapagos tortoise is a national sym- but moved to the United States in the late (ambassador), Diego Cordovez (ambassa- bol of Ecuador. The national sport in Ec- 1930s and is a citizen of both countries. dor), and Galo Plaza Lasso (former secre- uador is soccer, called "fútbol"...Ecuador By the time he was 17, Segura had won a tary of the Organization of American States qualified for the 2006 world cup. number of titles in Latin America and was (O.A.S.). Surprisingly, the small country of offered a tennis scholarship at the Univer- Ecuador has produced two of the best ten-

29 famous peruvIans The reforms meant a time of austerity for (Jorge) Mario (Pedro) Vargas Llosa, inter- the country, and prices for some basic ne- nationally acclaimed Peruvian writer and cessities (such as water and gas) skyrock- recipient of almost every literary award eted, but in the end, his reforms worked short of the Nobel Prize, is something of a and the economy stabilized. Pleased to see paradox. An author at home in many forms an economically responsible government of writing, Vargas Llosa once described in Peru, the International Monetary Fund literature as the passion of his life. As his helped secure loans, and foreign invest- country's leading presidential candidate, ment increased. During the 1980’s, two ter- campaigning for the centre right coalition, rorist groups had all of Peru living in fear: Fredemo, or the Democratic Front, he had the Movimiento Revolucionario Túpac come a long way from the days when he Amaru (MRTA: Túpac Amaru Revolution- supported the Cuban revolution and was ary Movement, named after the last ruling an active member in a small underground Inca executed by the Spanish in 1572) and remnant of Peru’s then-outlawed Commu- the Sendero Luminoso (“Shining Path”). nist Party. These groups wished to topple the gov- He had also come a long way from his stu- ALBERTO FUJIMORI ernment and replace it with a communist dent days in the University of San Marcos Alberto Fujimori (1938) is a Peruvian poli- one modeled on Russia or China. The two when he longed to leave Peru for the heady tician of Japanese descent. An academic by groups organized strikes, assassinated lead- stimulation of Europe where so many background, he was elected President of ers, blew up electrical towers, detonated car of his favorite novels at the time were set Peru three times between 1990 and 2000, bombs, and by 1990 they controlled entire and written. His escape came in 1958 after although he fled the country prior to com- sections of the country, where residents winning a fellowship to pursue a doctoral pleting his third term. A highly controver- paid those taxes and there were no govern- degree in literature at the University of Ma- sial figure, he is credited with ending the ment forces whatsoever. Ordinary Peruvi- drid. armed rebellion associated with the Shin- ans lived in fear of these groups, especially Nevertheless, although he spent two years in ing Path and other guerrilla groups and in the Ayacucho region where the Shining Madrid and several more in Paris working stabilizing the economy. However, his ad- Path was the de facto government. Just as for French radio and television, he contin- ministration was considered corrupt and he had done with the economy, Fujimori ued to think and write about his homeland. there were many human rights violations attacked the rebel movements directly and As evident from his life and fiction, Vargas during his time in office. He is currently in ruthlessly. He gave his military command- Llosa had an intense love-hate relation- Peru facing charges for a number of differ- ers free rein, allowing them to detain, in- ship with Peru from his boyhood when he ent crimes. In 1990, Peru was in the midst terrogate and torture suspects with no ju- first began to write. In 1990, when Vargas of a crisis. Outgoing President Alan Gar- dicial oversight. Although the secret trials Llosa became the candidate for president cía and his scandal-ridden administration drew the criticism of international human of a centre-right coalition called the Demo- had left the country a shambles, with out rights watchdog groups, the results were of control debt and inflation. In addition, undeniable. In September of 1992 Peru- the Shining Path, a Maoist insurgency, was vian security forces severely weakened the Mario Vargas Lhosa, Author MDCarchives gaining strength and popularity and bra- Shining Path by capturing leader Abimaél zenly attacking strategic targets in an effort Guzmán in a posh Lima suburb. In 1996, to topple the government. Fujimori decid- MRTA soldiers attacked the residence of the ed to run for president, backed by a new Japanese ambassador during a party, taking party, “Cambio 90.” His opponent was the 400 hostages. After a four-month standoff, well-known writer Mario Vargas Llosa. Fu- Peruvian commandos stormed the resi- jimori, running on a platform of change dence, killing all 14 terrorists while losing and honesty, was able to win the election. only one hostage. For his success in defeat- This was something of an upset. During ing these two groups, Fujimori is credited the election, he became associated with his by most Peruvians for ending terrorism in nickname “El Chino,” (“the Chinese Guy”) their country. which is not considered offensive in Peru. Fujimori immediately turned his atten- MARIO VARGAS LLOSA tion to the ruined Peruvian economy. He The Peruvian writer, Mario Vargas Llosa initiated some drastic, sweeping changes, (born 1936), novelist, critic, journalist, including trimming the bloated govern- screenwriter, and essayist, abandoned writ- ment payroll, reforming the tax system, ing at least temporarily in 1990 to run un- selling off state-run industries, slashing successfully for president of his country. subsidies and raising the minimum wage. Like many of the characters in his fiction,

30 famous peruvIans there is a large brass statue – this statue has Sacsayhuaman and the Incan Inti Raymi Festival - available on our June departures actually been dedicated to a child-hood and endearing bear called "Winnie-The- Pooh" Another furry animal, the Llama, originated in Peru and is used as a beast of burden. This animal is truly utilized with wool, leather and rope being made from their coats. Even the waste of the animal is used for fuel. A Spanish conquistador named Francisco Pavarro conquered Peru and in the conquest he died. His body is preserved in the main square in Lima to this day in a glass casket and the public can view it. Peru is classified as a ‘developing country’. About 40% of the population lives in poverty. Voting in elections is compulsory for all citizens aged 18 to 70. Peru borders five countries- Ecuador (to the north), Columbia (to the north), Bra- zil (to the east), Bolivia (to the southeast) and Chile (to the South). It also borders the Pacific Ocean. Peru’s main exports are fish meal, gold, copper, zinc and textiles. cratic Front (Fredemo), he was opposed by 1958 and was subsequently featured in The population is expected to reach 42 mil- the candidate of the Change (Cambio) 90 several books, most recently in 2008, writ- lion by 2050. Peru has a reasonable literacy Party, Alberto Fujimori. The well-known ten by Michael Bond and first illustrated by rate- 92.9%. author took an early lead but gradually lost Peggy Fortnum. The polite immigrant bear ground and in a run-off election, was defeat- from Darkest Peru with his old hat, bat- ed by Fujimori. His book about the experi- tered suitcase, duffle coat and love of mar- ence, Tale of a Sacrificial Llama, released in malade sandwiches has become a classic June, 1994, offers a convincing self-portrait character from English children’s literature. of a political innocent sinking under a tide Paddington Bear books have been trans- of democratic absurdities. This follows his lated into thirty languages across seventy work A Fish in the Water: a Memoir which titles and sold more than 30 million copies detailed "his bittersweet look at the nearly worldwide. three years he spent in public life." Vargas Llosa went back to his writing full-time PERU INTERESTING after his brief affair with politics. The cov- FACTS eted Planeta Prize for 1994, traditionally Did you know at the time of the Spanish awarded each year to a Spaniard for the best conquest, the Inca Empire was the largest pseudonymously submitted manuscript of in the world. Have you ever drunk a Pisco fiction, went to Vargas Llosa (whose applica- Sour? It is Peru's most popular cocktail. If tion for Spanish Citizenship was approved you prefer a coffee, Peruvian coffee is said in July); his Lituma en los Andes (translated to be extremely good by both Americans as Death in the Andes) is a story of political and Europeans. Then of course we have violence and social regression in a contem- the popular Lima bean which originated in porary Andean setting. Vargas Llosa's 1997 Peru. The finest cottons in the world come novel, The Notebooks of Don Rigoberto from Peru. There is also a tree which pro- marked the first time any publisher had reduces tannins for dyes. A weeping willow leased a title in all Spanish-language mar- from Peru produces the base to make as- kets on the same day. pirin. The Peruvian root Maca is what they make Viagra from and has been around for PADDINGTON BEAR hundred of years. There are 1701 species Okay this is a bit of whimsy. Paddington of birds, the most in Latin America. Peru Bear is a fictional character in children’s is the biggest producer in Latin America literature. He first appeared on 13 October for gold, zinc and gold. In downtown Peru

31 recIpes PERU Preparation Directions · Blend pisco with sugar, lemon juice and · Steam the Sea Bass, Turing over once CHICKEN & COCONUT SOUP WITH GINGER Angostura Bitter. until the color changes to white (ap- Ingredients · Add ice and finally the egg white. Blend proximately 3 minutes) · 6-8 fresh or dried galanga a few minutes. · In a glass bowl mix the lemon juice, oil, · 5-6 whole stalks fresh lemon grass, · Pour into small glasses and top with few parsley, hot pepper sauce, onion, celery, cut into 3 inch lengths (or 7-8 drops of Angostura Bitter. salt and pepper stalks dried, soaked 30 minutes and · Add the Sea Bass which should still be chopped) firm and coat thoroughly with the ingre- · 8 peppercorns dients from the bowl · 5 cups coconut milk · Let Stand in Bowl for 1 hour · 1 cup chicken stock · Serve with Pop Corn, Toasted Corn and · 2 lbs (1Kg.) chicken cut into ½" x ½" Fresh Bread pieces LLAPINGACHOS · Juice of 1 lime (or ½ lemon) Native plants of the Andes, potatoes have · 3 tbsps fish sauce (Nan pla) been a staple for thousands of years. Pota- · ½ tsp sugar toes have historically been one of the three most important crops in the Andean diet. · 3-5 fresh red chili peppers, either In ancient times they were prized for their slivered or pounded nutritional value along with their ability to · 2 tablespoons butter store well. There are hundreds of varieties · ½ lb (240 g) mushrooms finely sliced of potatoes grown throughout the Andes. · 2 tbsps chopped fresh coriander leaves Potatoes are found in many recipes and used in a variety of ways. Llapingachos are · 4-5 fresh kaffir lime leaves (bai mak- a small potato pancake type of dish with rutt) torn into shreds (optional) achiote (a red color seed) stuffed with Preparation ECUADOR cheese and served with thick sausages, eggs, Put galanga, lemon grass, peppercorns, co- CEVICHE DE CORVINA lettuce, and avocado. conut milk, and 1 cup (use good chicken Ceviche is a traditional seafood dish Ingredients stock) water into a soup pot. throughout Latin America. There are many · 4 pounds of Potatoes Bring to a boil over medium heat and add variations on the flavor depending on the · 1 White Onion finely chopped the chicken. Simmer over low heat for 10 to citrus juices and other ingredients used to 12 minutes or until the chicken is tender. marinate the fish. Common versions of · 4 Tbs oil with achiote ceviche found in Ecuador include ceviche Remove the whole spices (lemon grass, · 1/4 cup of shredded cheese de camarones (shrimp) and ceviche de cor- galanga, and peppercorns). · 2 egg yolks vina (sea bass). In most cases the fish is not Add lime juice, fish sauce, sugar and red not cooked but rather citrus juice and salt · Salt to Taste chili peppers. Although not recommended are used to stop the growth of microorgan- Directions for this soup, if you really like things hot, isms. Shrimp ceviche is typically prepared · Put the onions in a pan with oil and fry you can increase the chilies. with cooked shrimp. The dish is typically · Boil potatoes in water until fully cooked Melt butter in a small pan. Add mushrooms served with popcorn, a corn nut like seed, · Remove from water and whip potatoes and fry for a few minutes. Add to soup. aji (hot sauce) and fresh bread. until smooth adding salt to taste Remove to soup bowls and sprinkle with co- Ingredients riander and kaffir lime leaves before serving. · Mix potatoes and fried onions (If the · 2 lbs Sea Bass cut into cubes mixture is thin add the egg yolks) PISCO SOUR 8 servings · 1 Red Onion cut into long strips · Form mixture into balls filling center Ingredients · 1 Red Pepper cut into thin strips with cheese · 1 cup sugar · 2 tsp chopped Parsley · Flatten balls into patties · 1 cup key lime juice · 4 Tbs cooking oil · Place patties in frying pan and fry until · 2 egg whites · 1 Stick of Celery finely chopped golden · 12 ice cubes, crushed · 1 tsp Hot Pepper Sauce · Serve with a fresh salad of lettuce, to- · Few drops Angostura Bitter · 8 Tbs Lemon Juice mato, avocado and peanut sauce · 2 cups pisco · Salt & Pepper

32 Before You Go...... or perhaps after you return, the following are reading and viewing suggestions compiled by Goway.

NOVELS • Galapagos – A National History by Michael H. Jackson • The Voyage of the Beagle. Charles Darwin by Michael Neve • Galapagos Wildlife – A Visitors Guide by David Horwell • The Incas: New Perspectives by Gregory J. Hobbs Jr. • Sweat of the Sun, Tears of the Moon: A Chronicle of an Incan Treasure by Peter Lourie MOVIES • Aguirre: The Wrath of God directed by Werner Herzog • Fitscarraldo directed by Werner Herzog DID YOU KNOW? ECUADOR • Peru is the 6th largest producer of gold. • The Pisco Sour is Peru’s national drink • Ecuador is named for the equator, • Peru has the second largest amount of and is made using Pisco brandy, lem- which runs through the country. Shamans in the world, second only to ons, sugar water, egg whites, and ice and finished with bitters. • Guinea pig is considered to be a deli- India. cacy in Ecuador. It tastes like rabbit. • Peru’s capital Lima was once the most • Lake Titicaca in Southern Peru is the powerful city in South America, but fell world’s highest navigable lake and • Ecuador has many active volcanoes and South America’s largest lake. also, one of the greatest densities of into decline when the Spanish created a volcanoes in the world. One of them, if viceroyalty in Rio de la Plata. • Peru’s is the 8th largest producer of cof- measured from the centre of the earth, • Cotahuasi Canyon in the Arequipa fee in the world, and is the 5th largest would be even higher than Mt. Everest. region is considered one of the world’s producer of the Arabica bean. • Ecuador is one of only two countries in deepest canyons at 3,535 metres/11,597 South America that do not share a bor- feet deep, twice as deep as the Grand der with Brazil. Canyon in USA. • The majority of balsa wood in the • Two-thirds of Peru is covered in prime world comes from Ecuador. Amazon Rain Forest. • The capital city of Quito, and the third • Peru’s Huascarán National Park has largest city in the country, Cuenca, have more has 27 snow-capped peaks been declared as world heritage sites by 6,000 metres/19,685 feet above sea the UNESCO, owing to their rich his- level, of which El Huascarán 6,768 tory. metres/22,204 feet is the highest. • The 'Panama Hat' actually comes from • Peru has 1625 types of orchids of- Monticristi, Ecuador. The hat was first which 425 can be found growing natu- made popular during the construction rally close to Machu Picchu. of the Panama Canal. • Cusco in Peru was the most important PERU city in the whole of the Inca Empire and governed as far north as Quito in • Peru grows more than 55 varieties of Ecuador and as far south as Santiago in corn, and you can just about find it Chile. in any color including yellow, purple, white and black. • There are 3 official languages in Peru: Spanish, Quechua and Aymara, but • The potato is originally from Peru, and east of the Andes in the Amazon Jungle there are over 3,000 different varieties. regions, it is thought that natives speak Proud Peruvians use the phrase “Soy a further 13 different languages. mas Peruano que la papa” (I am more Peruvian than the potato). • The Inca citadel of Machu Picchu was lost to the Amazon Jungle for hundreds • Guinea Pig is a traditional dish eaten of years until it was re-discovered by in Peru Hiram Bingham, the American explorer.

33 Diary DAY 1 - GUAYAQUIL

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DAY 2 – GUAYAQUIL

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34 Diary DAY 3 – GUAYAQUIL TO THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

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DAY 4 – GALAPAGOS CRUISE ......

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35 Diary DAY 5 – GALAPAGOS CRUISE

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DAY 6 – GALAPAGOS CRUISE

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36 Diary DAY 7 – GALAPAGOS ISLANDS TO QUITO

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DAY 8 - QUITO

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37 Diary DAY 9 - QUITO TO NORTHERN HIGHLANDS

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DAY 10 - NORTHERN HIGHLANDS TO OTAVALO ......

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38 Diary DAY 11 - OTAVALO TO QUITO

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DAY 12 - QUITO

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39 Diary DAY 13 - QUITO TO LIMA

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DAY 14 - LIMA

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40 Diary DAY 15 - LIMA

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DAY 16 - LIMA TO CUSCO

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41 Diary DAY 17 - CUSCO

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DAY 18 - CUSCO TO SACRED VALLEY

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42 Diary DAY 19 - MARAS AND MORAY

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DAY 20 - MACHU PICCHU

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43 Diary DAY 21 - CUSCO

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DAY 22 - MISMINAY ......

DAY 23 - CUSCO TO PUNO ......

44 Diary DAY 24 - LAKE TITICACA AND UROS ISLANDS

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DAY 25 - PUNO TO LIMA ......

DAY 26 - ARRIVE NORTH AMERICA ......

45 ABout GowAY

Goway Travel was created in Toronto in 1970 by Bruce Hodge. Prior to arriving in Canada, Bruce was a research economist with the Reserve Bank of Australia; he then worked in England as a tour guide and subsequently became Operations and Sales Manager for a London-based European tour operation. In the early years Goway specialized in fun holidays for the 18-35’s as well as over- land adventure tours through Africa and Asia. This was augmented by the intro- duction of mini-bus tours of North America and an eight year period of operating coach tours through South America (including during the Falkland war). It was only a few years ago that Goway divested its interests in Adventures (the mini-bus venture) which is still a leading operator in North America. Along the way, as a result of connections, Goway evolved into the largest Canadian tour operator and wholesaler for the South Pacific. From modest beginnings, Goway now represents all the leading tour operators in Australia, New Zealand and Fiji. We are the only Canadian company with its own office in Australia. This was set up to maintain price controls and to offer additional service to travellers while downunder - this was a terrific bonus to Goway passengers during an airline strike several years ago. Goway has sales and reservations offices in Toronto and Vancouver, catering to the travel trade in Canada and the USA, with additional sales offices in California, Florida and New York. With the South Pacific covered, in the mid 1980s Goway developed a similar product line in Orient-Asia. Today Goway has programs in Indonesia (the Spice Islands), Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, India, Vietnam, Taiwan, Korea, Japan as well as Hong Kong and China. More recently, Goway introduced a full range of products in Africa, Middle East and South America. The strength of Goway has always been the quality of our staff and our commitment to customer satisfaction. Many of our staff are longtime employees and Bruce Hodge continues to be president. Expect more innovative ideas from us!

MIDDLE EAST AND

® Goway’s Promise of

MIDDLE EAST AND

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

46 Goway’s Promise of Goway’s Promise of

MIDDLE EAST AND EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

Goway’s Promise of Something Special MIDDLE EAST AND

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

Futura book Goway’s Promise of

EXCLUSIVE DELUXE SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS Goway’s Promise of SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

Goway’s Promise of

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES GOWAY BROCHURE RACK Welcome to our brochure rack. Goway is committed to helping you plan your perfect holiday, and our destination brochures are a great way to get started.

DOWNUNDER IDYLLIC ISLANDS This is North America’s #1 catalogue for travel to the fabu- This is North America’s most comprehensive brochure of lous lands downunder with over 150 independent travel travel ideas for you to escape to paradise in the beautiful ideas. Suggestions appeal to all types of travellers… from South Pacific. We can also help plan the perfect wedding backpackers to businessmen, from snowbirds to honey- and/or honeymoon. As well, we can arrange for you to dive mooners, from train buffs to beachcombers, to the discern- and/or sail the most idyllic waters in the world. ing traveller. Before you plan a trip to the beautiful South Pacific, you must get a copy of Goway’s MIDDLE EAST & AFRICA brochure. Come face to face with nature at its most magnificent on one of Goway’s great travel ideas for Africa – locally escorted tours ASIA and safaris, self-drive ideas, luxury rail journeys, and luxury pri- This planner for independent travellers features ideas in all vate game lodges. We also make specific recommendations for the main tourist areas as well as some that are “off the beaten the 50’s plus and the 18-35’s. As well as flying direct to South track.” Countries covered in this brochure are China (including Africa from North America, there are competitive alternatives Hong Kong), Japan, Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Philippines, via Orient/Asia. You could also consider combining Africa with Malaysia (Borneo), India and the Spice Islands of Indonesia Australia and Orient/Asia for the ultimate world touring experi- (including Bali). This brochure is essential reading if you are ence with Goway. planning a visit to the Far East, a Circle Pacific itinerary or travel around the world. Also featured are Goway’s CHINA ODYSSEY LATIN AMERICA and INDIAN ODYSSEY escorted tours. The newest region to the Goway stable of products, Latin America offers travellers the chance to experience over 150 travel ideas on a continent "just south of us". Online version This comprehensive brochure offers a variety of active and also available luxurious itineraries as well as an in depth choice of cruises from the Galapagos and Amazon down to the southern continent of Antarctica. Also available are two new “Holidays of a Lifetime” to Ecuador and Peru plus Brazil, Argentina and Chile. Step into the world of Latin America with Goway.

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Our magazine is published twice a year and our eZine approximately every 6 weeks. For more info visit us at goglobetrotting.com

Online ONLY brochures include: HOLIDAYS OF A LIFETIME WORLD'S BEST ADVENTURES

To order your brochure, call us at 1-800-387-8850 or visit us online at www.goway.com VISIT US ON THE WEB www.goway.com is evolving into one of the best sites on the web for useful travel information and ideas for the next time you go travelling.

47 Goway operates 13 exclusive small group escorted touring Goway’s Promise of experiences that carry our "Promise of Something Special". If you enjoy your current vacation with us, why not consider one of the following for your next vacation. EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES You will receive all the same exclusive features.

Goway’s Promise of Goway’s Promise of

16 DAYS EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES EXCLUSIVE FIRST PapuaCLASS SMALL GROUPNew ESCORTED Guinea TOURING EXPERIENCES Cape to Cairo32 DAYS

Goway’s Promise of Something Special

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES Waltzing Matilda22 DAYS Best of Australia15 DAYS Goway’s Promise of

EXCLUSIVE DELUXE SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS Goway’s Promise of SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING 10 DAYS 23 DAYS EXPERIENCES Best of New Zealand Magical Ecuador, Peru

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS Goway’s Promise of SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

Goway’s Promise of Cradle of the Incas13 DAYS Best of Ecuador12 DAYS EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

Splendours of China & 18Tibet DAYS Splendours of India18 DAYS

Signature Morocco14 DAYS Magic of Africa12 DAYS

For exact dates and more info, please request or visit www.holidaysofalifetime.com

48 NOTES

49 ADDRESS BOOK

50 END OF TOUR QUESTIONNAIRE

Dear Goway Passenger: Once again, thank you for travelling with Goway. In order for us to maintain the quality of our HOLIDAYS F A LIFETIME tours, we would appreciate your taking time to fill out this questionnaire. Please hand your completed questionnaire to your escort (who will also give you an envelope). You can also mail it to: Bruce Hodge, President, Goway Travel Ltd. - 3284 Yonge St., Suite 500, Toronto, Ontario M4N 3M7.

Please fill in the appropriate spaces relating to your tour: Name: ______Address:______City: ______Prov/State:______Zip/Code: ______Phone: ______Escort Name: ______Trip Date:______Tour Code: ______Please comment on your “Travel Companion” booklet: ______If you have any suggestions on how we can improve this book, please let us know ______

______

Please rate your Tour Director: (E - Excellent, G - Good, F - Fair, P - Poor) Personality: ______Organized:______Communication Skills: ______Knowledge: ______Efficiency: ______Enthusiasm:______Appearance/mannerism: ______Motivation: ______Other comments regarding your Tour Director: ______Please rate the following locations: (E - Excellent, G - Good, F - Fair, P - Poor) Hotel Food Local Guides Highlight(s) of Highlight(s) of

Ecuador

Guayaquil ______Galapagos Cruise ______Quito ______Northern Highlands ______Otavalo ______

Peru

Lima ______Cusco ______Sacred Valley ______Machu Picchu ______Puno ______

51 Had you heard of Goway Travel before? ______If so, where? ______Where did you hear about this tour? ______What were the main factors that influenced you to book this tour? ______Have you travelled on other fully escorted tours? ______If yes, what destinations and operators ______What destinations would you consider visiting in the future? ______Would you travel with Goway again? ______Did your trip meet your expectations? ______Would you recommend our tour to friends? ______Was the trip value for money? ______Was pre-tour information satisfactory? ______Were there any aspects of your tour that disappointed you? If yes, what were they? ______Were there any aspects of your tour that impressed you beyond your expectations? If yes, what were they? ______How would you make the tour better / other comments: ______Would you have any objection to Goway possibly quoting any comments on this questionnaire on their website or any other appropriate location?  YES  NO

Goway’s Promise of

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

52 Goway’s Promise of Goway’s Promise of

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

Goway’s Promise of Something Special

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

Goway’s Promise of

EXCLUSIVE DELUXE SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS Goway’s Promise of SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES

Goway’s Promise of

EXCLUSIVE FIRST CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED TOURING EXPERIENCES MISCELLANEOUS INFO Metric Equivalents

Temperatures 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres Fahrenheit Celsius If you know... X by... to find... 1 foot = 30.48 centimetres miles 1.6093 kilometres 230° 1 yard = 0.914 metre 110° kilometres 0.6214 miles 220° 210° 100° Water Boils 1 mile = 1.609 kilometres feet 0.3048 metres 200° 190° 90° 1 acre = 0.405 hectare metres 3.2808 feet 180° 170° 80° 1 pint = 0.57 litre square miles 2.59 square kilometres 160° 70° Body Temperatures 1 quart = 1.136 litres square kilometres 0.3861 square miles 150°

140° 60° Fahrenheit Celsius 1 gallon = 4.546 litres imperial gallons 4.546 litres 130° 120° 50° 1 ounce = 28.349 grams U.S. gallons 3.7853 litres 110° litres 0.2201 imperial gallons 100° 40° 104° 40° > high fever 1 pound = 0.454 kilograms 90° 30° 103° 39.5° litres 0.2642 U.S. gallons 80° 1 centimetre = 0.394 inch

39° > moderate fever 70° 20° 102° pounds 0.4536 kilograms 60° 1 metre = 1.093 yards 38.5° 50° 10° 101° kilograms 2.2046 pounds 40° 38° > low fever 1 kilometre = 0.621 mile 30° 0° Water Freezes 100° 37.5° 1 hectare = 2.471 acres 20° > normal (rectal) 99° 10° -10° 37° > normal (oral) 1 litre = 1.76 pints 0° 98° -20° 36.5° -10° 1 litre = 0.88 quart -20° -30° 97° 36° 24 Hour Clock -30° 1 litre = 0.22 gallon -40° -40° 96° 35.5° 1 gram = 0.035 ounce 1 kilogram = 2.205 pounds

24 23 13 22 14 SHOPPING SIZE CHART 21 15

LADIES (DRESS, SKIRT, PANTS, SUITS, COATS) 20 16

USA, Canada 4 (S) 6 (S) 8 (M) 10 (M) 12 (L) 14 (L) 16 (XL) 19 17 UK, South & East Africa 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 18 Australia 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Japan 7 9 11 13 15 17 19

MEN’S SHIRTS USA, Canada, UK, South & East Africa 14 14.5 15 15.5 16 16.5 17 Australia, Japan 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 “The use of travelling is MEN’S SWEATERS/T-SHIRTS USA, Canada, Australia S M L XL to regulate imagination UK, South & East Africa 34 36-40 41 by reality, and instead of Japan A-M L XL thinking how things may MEN’S SUITS/COATS USA, Canada, UK, South be, to see them as they are.” & East Africa 36 38 40 42 44 —Samuel JohnSon Australia 46 48 50 52 54 (1696-1772) Japan S M L XL american PhiloSoPher

INCHES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 CM HOLIDAYS F A LIFETIME With unique destinations to experience, featuring first class and deluxe accommodation, these itineraries truly are Goway’s promise of something special.

DOWNUNDER AFRICA ASIA LATIN AMERICA MIDDLE EAST

Visit www.goway.com to browse our brochure.

Goway’s Promise of

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TORONTO VANCOUVER LOS ANGELES SYDNEY 3284 Yonge Street, Airport Square 400 North Brand Blvd, 350 Kent St., 8th Floor, Suite. 500 1200 West 73rd Avenue,Goway’s Suite Promise 1050, of Suite 920 Sydney,Something NSW 2000 Special Toronto, ON, M4N 3M7 Canada Vancouver, BC, V6P 6G5 Canada Glendale, CA 91203 USA Australia Tel 416 322 1034 800 387 8850 Tel 604 264-8088 800 387-8850 Tel (800) 387-8850 Tel (02) 9262-4755 Fax 416 322-1109 800 665-4432 Fax 604 267-2111 800 665-4432 Fax (800) 665-4432 Inwatts (800) 227-268 E-mail: [email protected] EXCLUSIVEEmail: FIRST [email protected] CLASS SMALL GROUP ESCORTED Email:TOURING [email protected] EXPERIENCES Fax (02) 9290-1905

www.goway.comGoway’s Promise of

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