Jewelry du Jour BIG MAN IN WWDSWIM LITTLE ROCK A look ahead at THE CLINTONS HOST Swim Week in Miami. OSCAR DE LA RENTA Section II RETROSPECTIVE. PAGE 6 FINE JEWELRY EXPANDS BEYOND SPECIAL OCCASIONS. PAGES 4 AND 5

FALL 2013 PARIS COUTURE WWDWEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 BEAUTY BEAT Stricter EU Legislation Targets Cosmetics Safety sold are to be submitted to a cen- By CYNTHIA MARTENS tralized European electronic noti- fi cation system that’s been in place MILAN — Europeans will be able since January 2012. to slather on creams with more All nanomaterials — molecules confi dence come Thursday. or particles tiny enough to remain That’s when new legisla- for a long time on skin — must tion goes into effect across the be explicitly listed on cosmetics European Union, ushering in packaging, with the word “nano” more stringent safety require- in brackets following substance ments and detailed labeling. names, and have to be authorized Highlights of the new regula- in the regulation’s annexes. tion include the introduction of Called the Cosmetics “responsible persons,” who will Regulation, it replaces the exist- be listed with contact information ing Cosmetics Directive and its 67 on all cosmetic product labels. amendments, which impose cer- These people are charged with tain standards on all EU countries ensuring product compliance and but give member states leeway in maintaining up-to-date safety as- implementing the rules and en- sessments on fi le. forcing them. By contrast, the new Additionally, manufacturers regulation functions as a single must respect more precise guide- law and has an expanded reach, lines on how to evaluate a cosmet- eliminating “ambiguities that may ic product’s safety before introduc- occur among the member states” ing it on the market, and all items SEE PAGE 12 Nordstrom, Macy’s Head Pack In Digital Dept. Store Study label — Macy’s followed in second By RACHEL STRUGATZ place and Saks Fifth Avenue and Marks & Spencer tied for third. NEW YORK — Nordstrom is lead- Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, ing the way for department stores Net-a-porter, House of Fraser, in the digital space. Bergdorf Goodman and John The Seattle-based retailer took Lewis rounded out the top 10, with the top spot in a study by New York the latter pair tied for ninth. The University think tank Luxury Lab, study was released Tuesday and or L2, which ranked 40 global de- counted online retailer Net-a- partment stores using metrics from porter as a department store. their Web sites, digital marketing, Maureen Mullen, L2 director mobile and social media efforts. of research and advisory, told Nordstrom was one of four or- WWD that department stores are ganizations to receive a “Genius” SEE PAGE 12 Day Dream “It’s a challenge to dream about daywear,” said Pierpaolo Piccioli during a preview of his and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s couture collection for Valentino. The designers rose to the “casual” occasion, delivering gorgeous day clothes anchored in classic silhouettes that belied their exceptional treatments, such as this feathered sweater and herringbone skirt combination. For more couture, see WWD.com.

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013 image in PAGE TWO folder to be scanned WWD.COM - from They Are Wearing: Montauk's Surf Lodge Colombian Textile Firms Ensnared the Briefing Box At the Surf Lodge in Montauk, N.Y. Photo by Steve Eichner in Today’s WWd In Alleged Money-Laundering Case The U.S. has a free-trade agreement with By KRISTI ELLIS Colombia, under which qualifying textile and ap- parel products can be shipped to the U.S. duty-free. At the Surf Lodge in Montauk, N.Y. For more, see WWD.com. WASHINGTON — Federal authorities in the U.S. U.S. textile and apparel imports from Colombia targeted an alleged major money laundering net- totaled $261 million for the year ended May 31, ac- work in two separate actions on Tuesday, charging cording to U.S. trade data. 31 individuals and entities with funneling hun- Colombia is a small apparel and textile sup- dreds of millions of dollars of alleged drug money plier to the U.S. By comparison, Vietnam shipped through several companies, including six textile $8 billion in textile and apparel imports to the U.S. firms in Colombia. during the same period and China, the number-one The Treasury Department designated supplier, shipped $41 billion to the U.S. Colombian nationals Isaac Perez Guberek It could not be learned if any of the six

Ravinovicz and his son, Henry Guberek Grimberg, Colombian textile firms were producing apparel or ichner and 29 other people and companies located textiles for U.S. companies. e in Colombia, Panama and Israel as “Specially Julia Hughes, president of the U.S. Association Steve Designated Narcotics Traffickers.” of Importers of Textiles and Apparel, said she In a separate action, the U.S. Attorney’s Office did not recognize the names of the six Colombian

for the Southern District of Florida and the Drug textile companies that were targeted and had not Photo by Enforcement Administration’s Miami field division heard from any U.S. apparel importers about goods filed criminal charges against Guberek Ravinovicz being caught up in the factories. and Guberek Grimberg and two other Colombian The Colombian government did not respond New legislation goes into effect Thursday across the European nationals for their participation in the alleged in- by press time and the U.S. Attorney’s office in Union, ushering in more stringent safety requirements and ternational conspiracy. Southern Florida declined to comment. detailed labeling on cosmetic products. Page 1 The Treasury Department action was taken under U.S. authorities said the network of companies the Foreign Narcotics Kingpin Designation Act, laundered drug money for drug-trafficking orga- Nordstrom took the top spot in a study that ranked 40 global which generally prohibits U.S. persons and compa- nizations, including Ayman Saied Joumaa and department stores using metrics from their Web sites, digital nies from conducting financial or commercial trans- Linares Castillo, who have each previously been marketing, mobile and social media. Page 1 actions with the designated individuals and entities, designated by Treasury officials. and freezes any assets they may have in the U.S. According to the Treasury Department, Joumaa According to authorities, Guberek Ravinovicz operates global narcotics enterprises, stretching Bill, Hillary and Chelsea Clinton lauded Oscar de la Renta as and Guberek Grimberg led the money-laundering from South America to Africa, benefiting terrorist far more than a top designer at the opening reception for his network and were based in Bogota, Colombia. groups such as Hizballah, a Lebanese-based terror- fashion exhibit “Oscar de la Renta: American Icon.” Page 6 They relied primarily on “the use of ostensibly ist group. legitimate textile companies within Colombia to en- “Money laundering is the lifeblood of the narcot- Maiyet, two months after announcing a major collaboration gage in trade-related money laundering,” according ics trafficking world,” said David S. Cohen, under- with architect David Adjaye on a factory in India, is opening its to Treasury. “Using bank accounts for these com- secretary for terrorism and financial intelligence at first freestanding store today in New York. Page 7 panies, as well as accounts belonging to a series of the Treasury Department. “Our action against this shell companies in Panama, Guberek Ravinovicz major money-laundering network strikes a power- Rick Owens, the Paris-based designer known for his dark, and Guberek Grimberg provide a means for traffick- ful blow at the illicit profits flows of criminals like Goth aesthetic, will unveil two temporary shops this summer ers to transfer narcotics proceeds back to Colombia Ayman Joumaa and Linares Castillo.” for his DRKSHDW collection. Page 7 from locations all over the world, with drug money “Drug traffickers’ only motive to enter the il- transiting additional accounts in Spain, Hong legal drug trade is the money, and they will go to L’Wren Scott and Banana Republic have collaborated on a Kong, the United States, Mexico, China, Israel, the any length to hide and protect their proceeds,” said 50-piece holiday collection, Banana Republic L’Wren Scott, Cayman Islands and Venezuela, as well as other lo- DEA Special Agent in Charge Mark R. Trouville. due in select stores worldwide and online Dec. 5. Page 7 cations in Europe and Central America.” Penalties for violations of the Kingpin Act range from A Treasury Department spokesman identified six civil penalties of up to $1.08 million per violation to A report by workers’ rights groups uncovered evidence of Colombian textile companies, including: SBT SA, more severe criminal penalties. Criminal penalties sandblasting activity in China’s Guangdong province. Page 8 G&G Internacional SAS (aka Sebastiano), C.I. Del for corporate officers may include up to 30 years in

Istmo SAS, Comercializadora Internacional Andina prison and fines up to $5 million, while criminal fines Limitada, Colombo Peruana De Tejidos SA and for corporations may reach $10 million. Other individ- Le Chameau, the French rubber boots and outerwear brand, Induitex LTDA. uals face up to 10 years in prison and fines. is striding into fashion and luxury territory with help from Marc Newson, Fabien Baron and Charlotte Stockdale. Page 8

Max Snow discusses the fruits of his collaboration this summer with Montauk, N.Y.’s Surf Lodge. Page 9 Core Products, Retail Help Levi’s Net Soar is gross-margin accretive and retail allows you to Alber Elbaz booked six different men and one female model By ARNOLD J. KARR bring your brands to life in a way we can control.” for Lanvin’s fall campaign. Page 9 While the bulk of the company’s retail activity LEVI STRAUSS & CO. busted out in the second has been with its Levi’s brand, Bergh said the firm Joseph Altuzarra is the U.S. selection for the 2013-14 quarter with large increases in margins and profits is considering doing more direct-to-consumer busi- International Woolmark Prize, which will be awarded during as sales improved and costs came down. ness with Dockers, which has a “limited, predomi- Milan Fashion Week in February. Page 11 Chip Bergh, president and chief executive offi- nantly outlet” retail presence. cer, noted that second-half performance might be Bergh said that, as part of the company’s “expand “more muted,” however, as year-on-year reductions for more” strategy, it is looking for ways to build on its on WWD.CoM in the cost of denim and savings on the decision to presence in women’s, currently about a quarter of the discontinue the Denizen brand in Asia will largely business. The Revel program of body-shaping jeans THEY ARE WEARING: An après-la-plage crowd hit the be behind the San Francisco-based apparel giant. unveiled this month, which will hit Levi’s stores for Surf Lodge, the see-and-be-seen spot du jour out east, on Additionally, he noted, because Levi’s fiscal year fall, will offer not only innovation in product but also, Sunday afternoon for some artisanal provisions and seaside ends just prior to Black Friday, the company will lose opening at $98, a higher price tier to the assortment. sunset views. For more, see WWD.com. out on the benefits of the busy shopping day this year, al- “Clearly, to build on revenues, we have to find though it will get much of that back in fiscal 2014, when ways to drive growth through meaningful innova- two of the post-Thanksgiving dates will be recorded. tion and, after testing it with thousands of women, To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is In the three months ended May 26, Levi’s profits we know this brings significant innovation,” he said, [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. more than tripled to $48.1 million from $13.2 mil- adding that the company hasn’t yet decided when it COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. lion in the year-ago quarter. might roll it out with its wholesale customers. VOLUME 206, NO. 6. WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two Revenues rose 4.9 percent to $1.1 billion from A key to Levi’s growth in the quarter was the additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance $1.05 billion in the 2012 quarter and gross margin, strength of several of its core businesses — men’s Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, helped by reductions in cotton prices and the com- Levi’s around the world, Dockers bottoms in the Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, pany’s own cost-cutting initiatives, grew 400 basis U.S. and the wholesale business in the U.S., the ceo and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver points to 49.9 percent of sales from 45.9 percent. noted. Not only was the company up against gen- Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North The boost in gross margin came from the compa- erally soft year-ago numbers, but last year’s sec- Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. ny’s continued expansion at retail and a reduction ond quarter was especially difficult at J.C. Penney, Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or in cost of goods sold, which fell 2.9 percent in the which had yet to institute Levi’s shops-in-shop. inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine quarter, to $550.2 million. The quarterly sales increase included an 11 is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. Retail accounted for about 20 percent of compa- percent gain at retail and a 3 percent increase in You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt ny sales upon Bergh’s arrival in September 2011, a wholesale volume. While down slightly in the chal- of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request figure that has moved to 24 percent and is poised to lenging Europe and Asia-Pacific markets, sales in for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at go higher as the company builds on its e-commerce the Americas rose 10.1 percent to $666 million. Both www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that platform. “Our owned-and-operated e-commerce wholesale and retail revenues declined in Asia-Pacific, we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at activity has moved from 2 percent of sales to 3 while retail helped overcome wholesale weakness in P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED percent off a very small base,” he said. “It’s part Europe. Operating income rose in all three regions. ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER of our goal to become a world-class retailer and For the first half of the year, net income rose UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR we’re moving in that direction. We had double-dig- 148.5 percent to $155.2 million from $62.5 million. DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A it growth for retail in the Americas; retail growth Revenues were up 1.5 percent to $2.25 billion. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w10a002a;13.indd 2 7/9/13 7:55 PM 07092013195644 MADE IN AMERICAISSUE CELEBRATING HOMEGROWN BRANDS—AND REACHING DECISION MAKERS WORLDWIDE.

MADE IN AMERICA ISSUE ISSUE DATE: SEPTEMBER 4 AD CLOSE: AUGUST 21

For more information, contact Pamela Firestone, Associate Publisher, WWD at 212.630.3935 or pamela_fi [email protected] 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013

By JOELLE DIDERICH

PARIS — Crack open the safe: Fine jewelry has escaped the confines of special occasions to become an everyday pleasure for the women wealthy enough to afford it. That was the overarching message from the jewelers who displayed their wares on the sidelines of Paris Couture Week. Boucheron, Bulgari, Chanel, Chaumet, De Beers, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Van Cleef & Arpels were among those that staged presentations between July 1 and July 4. Thierry Fritsch, president of Chaumet, said fine jew- elers are responding to a shift in behavior among their well-heeled clientele. “Our Chinese and Russian clients are spearheading this change, because they enjoy wearing fine jewelry for more everyday occasions, like going out at night,” he said. “In Europe, we still cling on to this image of fine jewelry as something you pull out only for the Red Cross Ball. “We all want to evolve from that, so we have to pro- duce pieces that are a bit daintier, lighter and easier to wear,” he added. “This represents an opportunity for Chaumet, because our style has always been more under- stated and delicate.”

Chaumet presented a dozen one-of-a-kind diamond- and-sapphire rings inspired by its signature Liens collec- tion. They are part of a capsule collection designed by artistic director Claire Dévé-Rakoff, who, after joining the house last year, will present her first full collection for the jeweler in September.

“We decided to show rings because they are the easi- est piece of jewelry to wear,” said Fritsch, noting that they account for 70 percent of Chaumet’s jewelry sales. With her Cher Dior collection for Dior Joaillerie, de- signer Victoire de Castellane gave an irreverent twist to four traditional precious stones — diamond, ruby, sap- phire and emerald·· — by pairing them with multicolored gems in crystallized sugar shades. “I like to imagine they De Beers’ Stream earrings. V A Chanel Lion San Marco ring. Hermès’ Pierre Hardy- have different flavors,” de Castellane said. An offshoot of the Dear Dior collection she presented last year, the sets were organized into four families — Exquise, Etincelante, Majestueuse and Fascinante — and each came with a finely chiseled gold back inspired by the lace designs of vintage Dior couture gowns. Haute Jewels Make Highlights included artfully mismatched earrings and the Majestueuse bracelet, a spring bouquet of diamonds, pink, purple and yellow sapphires, emeralds, spessartite and demantoid garnets, rubies and Paraíba tourmalines.

Our Chinese and Russian clients are spearheading this change, because they enjoy wearing fine jewelry for more everyday occasions. —THIERRY FRITSCH, CHAUMET

“Jewelry must always trigger desire,” de Castellane explained. “I sensed that women were attracted to these kinds of color combinations.” Meanwhile, Roman jeweler Bulgari celebrated its Diva collection with a party in Paris attended by its new brand ambassador, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. Presenting the line, Lucia Silvestri, who was recently named Bulgari’s jewelry creative director, picked up the Gala in Costa Smeralda necklace and let·· its juicy rubel- lites, mandarin garnets and peridots tinkle through her fingers like pebbles. She turned it around to display the circular setting that allows light to filter through. “The stones must float,” noted Silvestri, who began her career in Bulgari’s gemology department at the age of 18. Jean-Christophe Babin, who recently took over as chief executive officer at the company, said Diva — which is in- spired by the heyday of Rome’s Cinecittà film studio in the Sixties — has the potential of becoming a house pillar alongside the Serpenti and Bulgari Bulgari lines. Babin pointed to the “unexpected wearability” of the pieces. “With some of our competitors, a piece worth 300,000 euros (or $385,250 at current exchange) can be worn only on very formal occasions, objectively seen,” Babin said. “At Bulgari, it can be extremely chic for formal occasions, but it can also seem perfectly appropriate with jeans.” Chanel Joaillerie is also seeking to expand its house codes with the Sous le Signe du Lion collection, inspired by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s star sign, Leo. The lion, her fetish animal, is worked in three varia- tions: sculpted stone, such as a solar yellow citrine or inky lapis lazuli; mosaic-patterned diamonds, and a fron- tal medallion motif that should trickle down into more accessibly priced pieces, joining existing pillars such as the Camélia and Comète ranges. “We thought the timing was right to introduce a new icon. It’s also the sign of Chanel’s maturity in fine jew- elry,” said Chanel’s international fine jewelry director, Dior Joaillerie’s Cher Dior Exquise earrings. V WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Benjamin Comar. Chanel launched its fine jewelry and watches divi- sion in 1993. Among the 58 pieces on show were the first two pro- duced by Chanel’s atelier, which opened last December on the fifth floor of its flagship on Place Vendôme. These include the one-of-a-kind Lion Royal necklace, which has been snapped up for 3.3 million euros, or $4.2 million. In platinum, set with 1,312 fancy-cut diamonds, 11 pear-cut diamonds, 21 brilliant-cut diamonds and six marquise-cut diamonds, it features a lion head pendant that detaches as a brooch. A stone’s throw away, Boucheron celebrated its 120 years on the famed Paris square with the Hôtel de la Lumière collection, which consists of 120 unique pieces designed by director of creation Claire Choisne. Among the 50 pieces on display were necklaces and rings combining diamonds with transparent rock crys- tal, or aquamarine and morganite in subtle pastel hues. A tribute to the neighboring Ritz hotel, currently under renovation, the Perles d’Eclat necklace strings together 19 large rock-crystal bubbles that have been hollowed out, frosted and polished to reveal clusters of diamonds that appear to float inside.

The highlight of the collection is the Soleil Radiant set, which was inspired by King Louis XIV, who com- missioned architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart to design Place Vendôme. In the display box, a necklace consist- ing of a spray of elements, set with 1,300 diamonds, curls around a rock crystal box studded with diamonds.

Hermès got a jump start on couture week, display- ing its new jewelry creations at its flagship on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré from June 14 to July 13. They included Niloticus, a capsule collection designed by Pierre Hardy as an homage to the crocodile leather used for Birkin and Kelly handbags. Hardy contrasted·· articulated scales in rose gold — designed Niloticus necklace. V Louis Vuitton’s Dentelle de Monogram ring. V each joint set with a white diamond — with a fine Art Deco-style central column set with tourmalines, iolites, beryls and peridots. Van Cleef & Arpels tapped a Sixties spirit for its Pierres de Caractère — Variations collection, an extension of the centenary collection it unveiled seven years ago. Everyday Statement The Oriental-flavored designs include a selection of oversize cocktail rings, such as the Pongal, named after the Indian monsoon festival. It features a 27.81-carat cushion-cut Colombian emerald surrounded by cabo- chon rubies and diamonds, in a setting inspired by the ornamental motifs of Mughal art.

V The Pongal ring from Van Cleef & Arpels. There might not be a special occasion to wear them, so it’s the customer who creates the occasion. —HAMDI CHATTI, LOUIS VUITTON

Its Matinée d’Orient set, which loosely draws on the crown the house created for the 1967 coronation of Farah Pahlavi as Empress of Iran, sets off round dia- monds with pear-shaped aquamarines and cabochon-cut turquoise in a delicate lacework made of articulated el- ements, designed to be comfortable to wear. De Beers highlighted its diamond expertise with pieces inspired by water. The Phenomena collection is divided into five themes — Frost, Glacier, Reef, Stream and Crest — with different diamond cuts·· used to create frosty or sparkling effects. The Frost necklace, for in- stance, appears to float on the skin thanks to the almost invisible knife-edge wires connecting its parts. Having established its house codes with all-diamond pieces, Louis Vuitton branched out with colored stones for the latest installment of its Voyage dans le Temps collection, designed by Lorenz Bäumer. Spinels from Vietnam, Tajikistan and Tanzania, in shades from lilac to fiery red, sparkled on open- work Dentelle de Monogram rings and earrings, while a bright blue Sri Lankan sapphire added depth to a Fleurs d’Eternité pendant necklace. A 45.5-carat

Australian black opal was the star of a chunky Galaxie

Monogram cocktail ring. VChaumet’s Liens ring. VBoucheron’s Perles d’Eclat necklace. Hamdi Chatti, vice president of fine jewelry and watches at Louis Vuitton, said the pieces were designed to be fluid enough for everyday use. “There might not be a special occasion to wear them, so it’s the customer who creates the occasion,” he said. “This can apply to a product costing 5,000 euros (or $6,420), but it could also be a product worth 3 million euros to 5 million euros ($3.8 million to $6.4 million), de- pending on the means.” Chatti linked this evolution to the fact that women are increasingly choosing jewelry for themselves. As he put it, “Before, there was always a husband or a father at their side. The issue is not who is paying — it’s who chooses the piece, and how they wear it. It’s a revolution Bulgari’s Persian Memories bracelet. V in the world of jewelry.” 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013 ORENSTEIN/CLINTON FOUNDATION MAX W.

Bill, Chelsea FOR MORE and Hillary IMAGES, SEE ALL OTHERS BY NAN COULTER; Clinton and Anna WWD.com/ Wintour applaud fashion-news. Oscar de la Renta Monday. EXHIBITION PHOTO BY

Oscar, Oscar! De la Renta Show Kicks Off

many first ladies and that Hillary Clinton By HOLLY HABER always looked “entirely appropriate” when she frequently wore his fashions as

LITTLE ROCK, Ark. — Bill, Hillary the most well-traveled secretary of state and Chelsea Clinton lauded Oscar de in history, Wintour earned the loudest la Renta as far more than a top de- applause of the evening when she de- signer at the opening reception for his clared, “I can only hope that all of you in fashion exhibition “Oscar de la Renta: Little Rock will be celebrating here come American Icon,” at the William J. Clinton November 2016. All of us at Vogue look Presidential Center on Monday. ·· forward to putting on the cover the first They heralded his friendship and female president of the United States.” philanthropy and needled him about his The exhibition was very difficult to fiercely competitive card-playing to the produce, de la Renta explained to WWD nearly 400 people who had gathered at after the program. the glass-and-steel presidential library “This was actually Hillary’s idea,” he cantilevered over the Arkansas River. said. “Originally, I thought it was going Guests included Barbara Walters, Alice to be about dresses I had done for first Walton, Arkansas governor Mike Beebe ladies or dresses I have done for Hillary, and Oscar de la Renta executives and and they said, ‘No, no, no, this is going family members Alex and Eliza Bolen Bill Clinton and Oscar de la Renta to be a retrospective of your work.’ and their sons Philip and Thomas. Unfortunately, only in the last 12 years The exhibition was compiled at the have we been keeping our archive of request of Hillary Clinton, who became clothes because before that I never ever close to the designer after they met in thought that anyone would ever have the 1993. The show of 30-plus mannequins, Unfortunately, only in the last 12 years slightest interest in my clothes.” which closes Dec. 1, is the first retrospec- The exhibition traces de la Renta’s life tive of de la Renta’s 50-year career. from his native Dominican Republic, but “I wanted to do this because for me, it’s have we been keeping our archive of most of the looks date from the past dozen not just about the clothes, although they years, including shimmering dresses worn are really spectacular,” Hillary Clinton clothes because before that I never ever by Chelsea Clinton, Jessica Chastain, told the crowd. “It’s about what that Jennifer Garner, Anne Hathaway, Sarah means — the continuing effort to really thought that anyone would ever have Jessica Parker and Taylor Swift. Several be as good as you can be; whether it is in displays are augmented by large reprints designing and creating a dress or build- of photos from Vogue, including Hillary ing a wall or teaching a child, it is about the slightest interest in my clothes. Clinton’s cover, which was the first time a excellence. It is about high standards. It first lady was featured on the magazine’s is about what we should hold ourselves to — OSCAR DE LA RENTA cover. It came about after de la Renta sug- no matter what we do in our lives.” gested the idea to Wintour and persuaded Praising de la Renta for build- Clinton to do it. ing an orphanage in the Dominican A display of five first lady looks in- Republic, Bill Clinton called the de- cludes a reproduction of the burgundy signer “a truly dedicated friend” who velvet dress she wore for that portrait “seems to become more ardent in plus a tan coat and dress worn by Nancy his friendship when you’re down,” Reagan in 1988, and a red suit from and “an even more competitive card Laura Bush dating to 2008. The earliest player than I am. piece in the show is a 1966 metallic green “I never got to wear one of his dresses,” tunic and pants that came from the closet the former president joked, “but I have of Lynn Wyatt. every day for many years worn the mantle “I am unbelievably honored that they of his friendship with genuine pride.” ·· have become one of my closest friends,” Following her father to the podium, de la Renta said of the Clintons. “We Chelsea Clinton said it was incumbent on have spent a lot of time together, spent her to amend one aspect of his speech. vacations together many, many times.” “Though you may be in a race for It was during those visits that who’s more competitive, it is slightly dis- President Clinton taught de la Renta to ingenuous of you to claim that anyone is play the card game Oh Hell. more competitive than you in anything,” “It’s a very competitive card game,” she said. A display from the exhibition. the designer explained. “President Like her own family, de la Renta is Clinton plays a thousand times better “always more interested in the future” than any other one playing. What drives than in the past, Chelsea Clinton noted. signer for his “commitment to ensuring sance man” and a designer who “truly me insane is he can be looking at the “The present is only so interesting that fashion is not only beautiful but also understands the power of clothes,” urg- television, the newspaper, and playing and inspiring because of what raw mate- accessible, not only something that an in- ing the crowd to remember that “the rea- cards and he still plays far better than rials it provides us — whether those are genue can wear but something that any of son [his fashions] are so gorgeous is that anyone else. This year in March we had a ideas or the fabric of a dress — to cre- us can take pleasure and pride in.” they are a perfect reflection of the man tournament and I won the first prize, but ate something new and innovative,” she Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour who made them.” I still have my doubts. I think it was ar- said, adding she was grateful to the de- deemed de la Renta “fashion’s renais- Noting that de la Renta has dressed ranged because it was in my house.” WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013 7 WWD.COM Maiyet Goes Clean and Chic With SoHo Store

IT’S BEEN a busy year for Maiyet, the up- wall is done in custom-fit distressed mir- start label that combines artisanal luxury rors, and decorative greenery, such as a with social awareness. Two months after ficus tree, is used throughout. announcing a major collaboration with Entering the freestanding retail busi- star architect David Adjaye on a state-of- ness has come relatively quickly for the-art factory in Varanasi, India, the label Maiyet, which launched in spring 2012 is opening its first freestanding store today with impressive investors, including at 16 Crosby Street in SoHo. In scouting lo- Wendy Schmidt, Richard Branson and cations, Maiyet founder and chief execu- Jochen Zeitz, director of Kering. In May, tive officer Paul van Zyl and president and WWD reported that Kering had been creative director Kristy Caylor considered looking at Maiyet as a possible acquisi- all their options — uptown and downtown tion. Van Zyl declined to comment on that — ultimately settling on Crosby Street for or projected sales figures for the store, its “old sense of New York,” said Caylor. but he and Caylor noted that a store has “The area is kind of cool and up-and-com- been part of the business plan from the ing, and the adjacencies are great with De outset, its swift timing a combination of Vera and Opening Ceremony. It still feels a deliberate strategy and positive feedback little bit off the beaten path of SoHo, and from the market. Also, van Zyl stressed we liked that it still had a cool edge to it.” the importance of establishing a re- The 2,500-square-foot sales floor was tail concept for potential shops-in-shop designed by Cigue, a Paris-based ar- and concessions with future wholesale chitecture firm founded by six class- and franchise partners, particularly in mates from L’école nationale supérieure Europe and Asia, where Maiyet is ac- d’architecture de Paris La Villette, which tively looking to expand. “The most pres- has worked with labels such as Céline, tigious department stores that do conces- Isabel Marant and Yves Saint Laurent. sions are more inclined to take you on Headed by Cigue’s Hugo Haas, the store when they can see what your vision looks aesthetic is bohemian minimalist, with like,” said van Zyl, adding that store will a focus on clean, white space and chic, not be just a place to sell merchandise. craftsy touches that reflect the Maiyet “We will have wine and food events and STEVE EICHNER ethos. Glass vitrines showcasing fine jew- music and talks and engagement with our elry are set in white plaster walls; the artisans. We’re using the store to pioneer

PHOTO BY dressing room doors are finished with gold a new way of thinking about luxury.” Maiyet’s first freestanding store, located on Crosby Street. trim and covered in cashmere; the south — JESSICA IREDALE

Owens’ DRKSHDW Shops to Debut Scott Teams With Banana Republic simplistic and quite the opposite of proached “by other people who dis- By LISA LOCKWOOD Europe, which is more layered and By SHARON EDELSON cussed collaborations, but I didn’t more dense.” feel the timing or [project] was RICK OWENS, the Paris-based design- The last time Owens was in New SOMETIMES opposites do attract. right for me. Banana Republic er known for his dark, Goth aesthetic, York City was five years ago. “There L’Wren Scott, known for her sophis- is somewhere I used to shop will unveil two temporary shops this are too many other places to go. But ticated, sexy and opulent designs — a and something I grew up with. summer for his DRKSHDW (pro- I do love New York. I was amazed recent collection featured real 23- From a quality point of view nounced Dark Shadow) collection. at how angular and how muscular karat gold on shoes and apparel — has and their price point, it was re- The DRKSHDW Ephemere stores it looks. It just makes Europe look teamed with sportswear-centric Banana ally impressive. They have this will open at 70-72 Wooster Street in curly,” said Owens, who moved from Republic, whose fall collection is massive team that helps you Manhattan from July 16 to Oct. 26, Los Angeles to Paris in 2003. He said themed “modern collegiate.” achieve what you want to and in London at 30A Redchurch his partners found the new locations, Banana Republic and Scott do. It’s this big machine. Street from Sept. 4 to Oct. 13. These “and I trust them implicitly; they’re have collaborated on a 50-piece In a team that size, you will represent the line’s first two free- geniuses in taking space.” holiday collection, Banana have somebody for every standing stores. Owens called the London shop Republic L’Wren Scott, due in component for the mak- “It sounds more glamorous than “teeny. It’s more about putting on select stores worldwide and ing of a garment. The saying a pop-up store,” said Owens a sandwich board and saying what online Dec. 5. sheer speed that they can about calling them Ephemere stores. we’re about,” and directing people to Scott is a stickler for qual- achieve is mesmerizing.” Owens said he loves his name- visit the shop across town. ity and attention to detail, Scott and Kneen met sake store on Hudson Street in As for whether he’d consider which is reflected in her at the Americano in Manhattan, “but it’s opening permanent stores prices. A floral lace blouse is Chelsea and bonded a destination. I felt Jeans from DRKSHDW. for DRKSHDW, Owens $1,350, and her summer wool over guacamole and I didn’t want to be said, “We’ll see how it sheath dress is $3,200. chips and fish tacos. evasive or very ex- goes.” He’s also still look- “That was the challenge,” “She was really up for clusive. I thought ing for additional loca- said Simon Kneen, creative [the collaboration] we should bring tions for Rick Owens director and executive vice and really open to our dog-and-pony stores, and revealed that president of design of Banana it,” Kneen said. “The show into where the next Rick Owens unit Republic. “She’s much more collection has a very everybody is and will open in Miami. couture than we’d ever be. clear point of view. be part of the city. DRKSHDW, which How could we make her more L’Wren knows what I thought it would launched in fall 2005, approachable and understand- she wants and what she be a nice message,” is manufactured able for our customer? She want- doesn’t want. She would said Owens about the primarily in Italy. ed some of the sportswear sensi- bring jewels as inspira- Wooster Street location. Retail prices range bility that we bring.” tion for buttons. It was The New York shop will from $300 for a cot- The collection has a glamor- interesting for us to take measure 2,500 square feet, ton T-shirt, $500 ous holiday-at-home theme and that and make it much while the London boutique will for a pair of jeans includes “little perfectly fitted more affordable.” be 215 square feet. and $650 for low-cut and beautifully made jackets,” The aspect of the proj- DRKSHDW, which is Owens’ sneakers to $1,300 Scott said. “The blouses are ect that really sold Scott, secondary line, is a women’s for a denim jacket gorgeous. I did some really said Kneen, was its gift and men’s collection of Owens’ with leather sleeves great L jeans, my signature component. “I love the fact shapes reinterpreted in denim and $1,900 for a jean, in fun colors and a that it has a lot of gifting,” and knits. The line is roughly 40 hooded bomber. nice brocade. I also did Scott said. “I’m obsessed percent less expensive than the DRKSHDW is a drawing, a peony print with gifting. There’s a lot of main collection. “It’s a lot more ac- presently sold in from my garden, and put fun things in the collection, cessible, and it’s taken on a person- Owens’ freestand- it on jeans.” There’s like a little clutch bag with a ality and has a life of its own,” said ing stores in Paris, a velvet jacket with jeweled rock ’n’ roll gunmetal Owens, who was reached Tuesday London, New York, a striped lining and chain that comes off and can by telephone in Paris. Tokyo, Seoul and a classic brocade be worn as a necklace.” There’s “I’m very much associated with Hong Kong, as well shift. Prices range also striped cashmere black, and DRKSHDW is even as shops-in-shop from $39.50 to $165, blankets, striped be- blacker,” he said. “I always think at stores such as including petite rets and totes. of the Ramones and ‘What would Bergdorf Goodman and tall sizes. “It was hard Joey wear? All of our generation and Barneys New Accessories are to edit [the col- has a little bit of the Ramones in York, and retailers priced from lection],” Scott them,” said Owens. “There’s some- such as Maxfield, $39.50 to $198. said. “We did thing cheery, big and loud about Alan Bilzerian Scott said A sketch of a Banana Republic more than we even the Ramones. It’s very American, so and Alchemist. she’s been ap- L’Wren Scott look. expected.” 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013 WWD.COM DENIM Report Claims Sandblasting in China Persists

It was published by the Clean The group’s research found that only ment informed us that they had removed By ARNOLD J. KARR Clothes Campaign, the War on Want one of the plants studied, Dongguan all sandblasting equipment and sent pho- workers’ rights group, Students Gloss Mind Apparel Co., had fully elim- tos as proof,” said Kris Marubio, director THE SANDBLASTING of denim has and Scholars Against Corporate inated sandblasting from its opera- of corporate affairs at Levi’s. “We conduct- been driven out of the spotlight but has Misbehavior, or SACOM, and the Hong tions and that three — Zhongshan Yida ed a validation to confirm that no sand- yet to be eliminated from factories in Kong Liaison Office of the international Apparel Ltd., Dongguan Golden City blasting equipment remained in the facto- south China’s Guangdong province, ac- trade union movement. Washing Sandblast & Brush Factory r y. The last audit was conducted on April cording to a report issued Tuesday. These organizations are seeking a (Golden City) and Conshing Clothing 9, 2013.” She added that worker interviews The 38-page document alleges that global ban on sandblasting in addition Group Co. Ltd. — had vowed to do so. were part of the validation process. some factories simply pack up their to improved protection for workers in- “Our investigations, including direct Reiterating Levi’s opposition to the sandblasting machinery and hide it volved in other potential injurious prac- workers’ testimony, revealed that the use of sandblasting and all abrasives in its when audits and visits are scheduled, tices, such as the spraying of potassium practice may not have been discontinued supply chain, Marubio said, “Our ambition only to resume the practice when out- permanganate, a lightening agent. at all,” the report said. “One factory re- is to see the practice end industry-wide. siders leave. While a large number of brands and portedly continued its sandblasting on We were the first apparel company to an- “Breathless for Blue Jeans: Health retailers in the U.S. and Europe have of- the sly, surreptitiously dismantling the nounce a sandblasting ban, doing so with Hazards in China’s Denim Factories” ficially banned sandblasting from their sandblasting machinery and hiding it in H&M in September 2010. We are encour- includes interviews with factory work- supply chains — some unilaterally and advance of inspections.” aged to see that numerous other manufac- ers at six denim facilities in Guangdong, others following pressure from these In one case, two manual sandblasting turers have since imposed similar bans.” which the authors said is responsible for groups and others — compliance has machines were kept at Golden City to The report outlined numerous other approximately half of the world’s jeans been difficult to prove as subcontractors accommodate other customers of Gloss risks and abuses faced by the workers in production. It alleges that these facilities occasionally have been hired for por- Mind but taken apart and hidden upon these plants despite changes in China’s have reduced but not eliminated manual tions of the work or replicas of brands the occasion of an audit or inspection. occupational health and safety laws and and mechanical sandblasting, which ex- have been discovered in plants produc- Levi Strauss & Co. confirmed its asso- guidelines. “There is a dramatic lack of poses workers to crystalline silica dust ing counterfeit merchandise. ciation with Golden City and the discovery resources, monitoring is lax, corruption particles that can cause silicosis, an ir- Tuesday’s report compounded some of in 2011 of the hidden sandblasting equip- is endemic and abuses of power by local reversible lung disease. that uncertainty. ment. “In January 2012, factory manage- authorities remain high,” the group said.

Hermès to Open 2 Factories in France Le Chameau Ups Fashion Quotient

PARIS — Hermès International said on Montbéliard at an unspecified date. Both will The Vierzon is based on one of Le Tuesday it will open two leather goods fac- take advantage of the know-how of the neigh- By SAMANTHA CONTI Chameau’s most popular styles and tories in eastern France as part of its con- boring Seloncourt staffers, in addition to the is geared more toward country life tinued drive to expand capacity in order to specialized training dispensed by the Ecole LONDON — Le Chameau, the rub- with a buckled calf and grooves on meet thriving demand for its bags. Boudard located in nearby Bethoncourt, the ber boots and outerwear brand the sole. The maker of Birkin bags and silk squares company said. from France, is striding into fashion The new models are lined in plans to eventually employ 600 people in the Hermès will open a temporary work- and luxury territory with help from either leather or jersey, with the region, including the 210 artisans at its exist- shop in Etupes in early 2014 to welcome Marc Newson, Fabien Baron and former costing 220 pounds, or $327, ing factory in Seloncourt. the first trainees in the saddlery and Charlotte Stockdale. and the latter 120 pounds, or $179. A facility in Héricourt will open in 2015 leather goods division. The company, founded in 1927 as Le Chameau’s traditional mod- or 2016, to be followed by another near — JOELLE DIDERICH a saddler and boot maker, and which els will continue to be sold in spe- still makes natural rubber boots in cialty stores, while the newer boots its factory in Normandy, will launch will be sold through fashion retail- two new boot styles for spring, in ers. “There is no reason why the a palette of colors including Yves two trajectories of the business can- Fetherston, Cosabella Link for Bridal Intimates Klein blue, burnt orange and army green. The company will By KARYN MONGET continue to make its traditional boots — be- COSABELLA AND ERIN Fetherston have loved of clients rang- entered into a collaboration to create a brid- ing from the Duchess al intimates collection for spring 2014. of Cambridge to the The Erin Fetherston & Cosabella collec- fishermen of Brittany. tion contains a full range of bridal under- Its fashion offer will pinnings including unconstructed and un- launch with a cap- derwire bras, coordinating undies, and flirty sule collection of two baby dolls that are reflective of Fetherston’s styles and six colors feminine and ethereal style. Fabrics include set to land in stores in European laces, chiffons, satin bows, point January. ERICKSEN d’esprit and Cosabella’s signature mesh. “When I visited the Fetherston — a new bride and self-pro- KYLE factory, the first compa- claimed fan of Cosabella lingerie — is the first ny I thought of was John designer to collaborate with the luxury Italian Lobb,” said Newson, the lingerie company in the bridal category. PHOTOS BY award-winning industri- “My designs and personal style have al- Guido Campello and Erin Fetherston al designer whose title ways been feminine and is creative director, referring Le Chameau’s new line of boots will romantic, so it felt organic A bridal will be rendered in basic styles to the British company that hand come in six colors. for me to translate that to look. for year-round selling. makes its footwear. “Le Chameau lingerie. I’ve always adored “We know that bridal has be- boots are made in France from nat- not exist in parallel,” Newson said. the notion of the bridal come important at retail, but the ural rubber, and we have no inten- Le Chameau plans to launch trousseau, and I always bridal hybrid is still restricted in tion of changing that, or of moving more new styles for fall, and will thought intimates was a a woman’s life. So we designed production to China. With the new also begin to develop its outerwear category that my aesthetic the collection to stay on the sell- collection, we’ve done nothing to collection into a more luxury offer- would translate well into,” ing floor as a basic line as well. hinder how the product works or ing. The company plans to unveil a said Fetherston. Erin gave us some ideas, textures how it is made.” few pieces for the fall season. Guido Campello, vice she wanted to use such as point The boots are hand-shaped to fit Baron has been working on the president of sales, brand- d’esprit, and we can do fashion the contours of the foot, ankle and branding and packaging, the latter ing and innovation at colors for different seasons,” ex- calf and 150 operations are used to of which is graphite gray. A com- Cosabella, said the com- plained Campello. make each pair, according to the pany spokeswoman said there are pany “always had a place Suggested retail will be $20 company. Bespoke linings — such no plans to advertise for the next 18 in the bridal market, but to $240. Distribution is aimed at as calfskin leather — are selected months, although Baron will be cre- we’ve never truly explored Cosabella stores in Miami, New according to function. ating films for the Web that tell the our range. York and Atlanta, as well as depart- Newson is working alongside story of the brand. The company “This collaboration with ment stores and specialty boutiques Stockdale, a fashion stylist — and will also launch a new Web site to Erin will allow us to expand worldwide such as La Rinascente his wife — on product development, coincide with the launch of its new our reach by creating the in Milan, Galeries Lafayette in and with Baron on branding and fashion products. luxurious fairy tale pieces Paris and Shinsegae in Seoul. packaging. Le Chameau was purchased last that brides are demand- A first-year wholesale sales One of the new women’s mod- year by the London-based Marwyn ing….It’s lingerie that caters projection was not available, but els is the Paris, which comes in Management Partners from the to both her wedding day — the combined bridal and basic long and short versions. It has a French-based company Lafuma. and night,” said Campello. collections could exceed $5 mil- white wedge heel, and a sole that MMP is quoted on the London Stock He further noted that lion the first full year, according provides traction on wet, flat sur- Exchange and Le Chameau is the silhouettes in the collection to industry estimates. faces, much like a fisherman’s boot. company’s first luxury acquisition. WOOLMARK WINNER: Joseph Altuzarra is the U.S. selection for the 2013-14 International Woolmark Prize. WWD STYLE PAGE 11

Summer of Snow MONTAUK, N.Y. — Artist, scion and sometime scenester Max Snow has installed himself at, and lent a little artistic cred to, the Surf Lodge this summer as the beach haunt’s inaugural artist in residence. The pairing led to Snow’s first foray into fashion, a capsule collection that launches today. For more, see page 10. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER

and YouTube pages, as well as Shand Kydd told WWD. Istanbul. It will be located on the MEMO PAD its Web site. — MILES SOCHA “I let people follow their former site of the Berners Hotel, own thoughts, and I didn’t on Berners Street near Oxford MULTIPLE PERSONALITIES: Wishing CONVERSATION STARTER: Ian ask too many questions — I Street. — SAMANTHA CONTI to convey the diversity of Lanvin Schrager and Nowness have followed the discussion — and I collections, Alber Elbaz booked six rounded up a gang of art found the nuggets of gold. I love LARGER THAN LIFE: Coco Rocha is different men, including Bryan and fashion figures to mark hearing how people work.” back at Longchamp, and a lot Ferry’s son Tara, and one chameleon the opening in the fall of the Shand Kydd, who made his name bigger this time. For her fourth female model, Edie Campbell — who London Edition, a new hotel photographing London’s YBAs — consecutive campaign for the dons one turban and five diverse and part of a collaboration Young British Artists — before they accessories firm, the Canadian hairstyles — for the fall campaign. between Schrager and Marriott. became famous, said his favorite model was photographed by Greg Slated to break in September Tracey Emin, Solange Knowles, Miles film so far is the one featuring the Kadel. The fall ads show Rocha magazines, the ads were shot Aldridge, Amanda Harlech and J.W. British actor Rory Kinnear and the looming over the New York by Steven Meisel with creative Anderson are among those taking theater director Rufus Norris, who skyline and stepping through direction by House + Holme. part in five short films, directed worked together on the coming-of- traffic in high-heeled ankle boots, Lanvin is also to release a by the photographer Johnnie age film “Broken” in 2012. sporting three styles of handbag, making-of video on its Facebook Shand Kydd, and based around the “They morphed in and out of including the new Quadri tote. concept of creative collaboration. performance and discussion,” Marie-Sabine Leclercq, head of The first film, “Vision,” has he said of the film, where the global communications for the Franca Sozzani in conversation two discuss film and theater. French firm, said the campaign The Longchamp fall campaign shot with Aldridge about image He also filmed his old asserts Longchamp’s “mix of by Greg Kadel. making, and launches today on friend Emin talking about her energy, optimism and joie de vivre.” with a young executive to the editionhotels.com. The other collaboration with the late In tandem with the print sound of “Toop Toop” by Cassius. films will roll out at the end of artist Louise Bourgeois. That campaign, Longchamp will The print ads break this month, and in the fall. film is shot in Emin’s sewing release its latest clip, which worldwide in August, with the “I filmed all five — and it studio and in artist and writer pairs choreographer Salim film scheduled for release on could have become repetitive Harland Miller’s studio. Gauwloos with Los Angeles-based the Longchamp Web site and Steven Meisel photographed Lanvin’s — but everybody comes to the The London Edition hotel directing team Skinny. It shows social networks on Sept. 10. fall campaign. table with something different,” will be the second to open after Rocha engaging in a dance battle — CARTER INSKEEP-ROSENFELD 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013

Altuzarra, daughter of Danielle Steel and, as of last year, Snow’s Max Snow in Surf and Snow wife. The artist’s emergence his studio. on the fashion scene is not just eye the by-product of the inherent “GOOD OLD CANADIAN philanthropic contributions confluence of the art and fashion tuxedooooo,” Max Snow grins, to the art world are virtually worlds, but also his better half. adjusting the collar on his unrivaled. Said grandma is Almost exclusively black nearly black denim work shirt Christophe de Menil, art- and cream with a focus on (which he has paired with a world royalty. (Though once texture and fabrication, the pair of selvedge jeans). It’s the estranged, Snow and de Menil lineup is very much in line morning after the Fourth of July recently reconciled.) with Snow’s own sartorial and the photographer, curator At the moment, Snow is quite sensibilities: that elusive and fixture of the New York art literally surrounded by the brand of subversive- FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE and fashion worlds is planted fruits of his labor — posed for without-wanting-to-be- squarely on a bar stool at the the sake of a portrait shoot. His subversive, quiet cool. WWD.com/eye.

center of his new studio space latest series of artwork, titled “I drew from an STEVE EICHNER at the Surf Lodge in Montauk, “Highway of Tears,” hangs on old-school biker, surf N.Y. It’s an airy appendage on the walls. A heap of canvas and vibe. But I mean, I guess I stole the southern tip of the out-east leather totes of his design are from my own aesthetic, too,” he PHOTO BY hotel. There’s a stack of bubble- splayed across the floor. says of the range. “My closet is says behind the wheel now on Photographs from his “The Lady wrapped canvas resting against “I actually just silk-screened sort of like Pee-wee Herman, the drive over. “So when I was of Shalott” series are displayed the wall in one corner, an these,” he says, looking over the you know? It’s like all the same tasked to make some clothes, I in the lobby. A pigeon fluttering ashtray brimming with snuffed- pile. “They just finished drying.” thing over and over again. It’s all got more and more excited the in front of a bare-breasted out Marlboro Reds sitting atop The totes are one component many pairs of black jeans and more I got into it.” Arizona Muse hangs at the a nearby tool chest and an of his limited-edition capsule all black T-shirts and sweaters.” The capsule is the latest entrance. He also collaborated alarmingly orange chain saw collection for the hotel, Max Currently, he is in a black manifestation of Snow’s with the Surf Lodge for his first lying in the middle of the floor. Snow x Surf Lodge sold on- tissue-thin pocket T-shirt, partnership with the Surf short film. Scored by Philip Though it may look out of site and online starting today. selvedge jeans and crocodile Lodge, which is hosting him Glass (he’s a friend), “Ghost of place at the 20-room hotel — a Retailing between $55 and cowboy boots. A few minutes as part of their just-launched the Pale Horse” features French go-to destination for a certain $525, the collection spans from later, he hops into his Ford artist-in-residency program in model Loulou Robert frolicking breed of Manhattan-based wool baseball caps to cashmere pickup (read “hops” quite which they provide a studio along the Montauk seascape. weekend warrior between hoodies and has Snow’s mark all literally, as it’s generously space and room for a selected It launched on the LVMH Moët Memorial and Labor Days — over it. His involvement with the lifted off the ground) to get artist for the summer. Snow has Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned there’s a good explanation project was all-encompassing. He brunch nearby. His truck is been putting the residency to Nowness.com on July 4. The for the chain saw. Snow’s can, and does, speak thoroughly black with an all-black interior. good use: He threw a weekend- film ends with a nude Roberts grandmother had a couple of about the direction of each piece. “I like to keep the palette very long kickoff fete in June with walking through a haze of trees on her property in Sag “It’s very stiff and thick and monochromatic because then performances by Willie Nelson bursting fireworks. Harbor’s Barcelona Point that sturdy, but it’s something that will everything matches and it and Courtney Love, drawing a As for his own Independence needed chopping. take on your shape over time. makes life that much easier. veritable who’s-who of fashion’s Day celebrations, Snow had “Well someone has to It wears in like leather almost,” But then it’s more about quality cool kids out east (he handed a relatively relaxed evening, take care of grandma, am I he says of the denim shirt. and texture and fit,” he says. out several of his denim work first stopping at the hotel, then right?” he shrugs with a bit “Vanessa’s wearing it a lot, which “I’d never designed clothes shirts to shivering guests to heading to the lighthouse. of false modesty as he tucks I think is the best compliment.” for anyone else before, but I stave off the post-sunset chill). “It felt very American. I’m a cigarette behind his ear. That would be Vanessa Traina often do for myself because I He has also been curating surprised, though,” he pauses. Snow, 29, is the progeny of — perpetually chic stylist, pal can never find things in stores, art shows at the hotel, as well as “We didn’t blow anything up.” the de Menil dynasty, whose of Alexander Wang and Joseph for the most part, that I like,” he displaying his own work there. — TAYLOR HARRIS

behind Showtime’s “Weeds”) The show is sardonic, as this rubbed-raw prisoner,’” Natasha Lyonne centering on a thirtysomething, something that appeals to she says. “Luckily, I think, in this Piper Chapman, who is suddenly Lyonne’s own penchant for case, my reputation precedes me.

thrust from her comfortable life morose humor. Needless to say, I don’t think it’s that much of a with her fiancé in Brooklyn into Lyonne sees the irony in it all. stretch for anyone to picture it.” an all-women’s prison to serve “I mean, as you know, I’ve Lyonne doesn’t shirk her a 15-month sentence for her had some wear and tear in this textured past nor the glaring involvement in a drug-smuggling life, but I know that even in the parallels between Nicky’s own ring. Piper is the consummate most graphic and painful of drug-fueled legal scrapes and

fish-out-of-water, a farmer’s circumstances, inevitably there’s her own. Without rattling off market-frequenting Brooklynite humor,” she says, running her her rap sheet, Lyonne speaks who has her own line of bath hands through her mane of candidly to how her exhaustive, products that was recently sold auburn hair, still perfectly tousled tabloid-documented odyssey to Barneys New York. When from the night before. “It’s just lent itself to the role. “I mean, I given her jailhouse footwear a reality of life, so I actually can relate to this character,” she while checking into·· prison, she digested the script as being in says. It’s a trope often utilized exclaims, “Hey! These are kind line with my own sensibility.” by actors, but rarely does it ring of like Toms!” The part came her way via this true. Much like Lyonne, But navigating the jailhouse Kohan — or “a f--king female Nicky is no shirking violet. She’s milieu isn’t as treacherous as it pioneering genius,” as the sharp as a tack, delivering tart Time sounds. “This isn’t ‘Oz,’” Piper’s actress terms her — when one-liners with the same pithy counselor tells her flatly on her Lyonne had a bit part in the ease that Lyonne does. Of her first day in the joint. “Women “Weeds” finale. “I read the other two cell mates — a woman fight with gossip and rumors.” script while on the set of living off an oxygen tank and a Instead of finding razor-blade- ‘Weeds’ and I was thinking, neat freak — Nicky cracks dryly,

JENNA GREENE wielding assassins, this prison ‘Holy f--k, I’ve got to get on this “How much longer are they going Served is peopled by a jumble of show.’ I felt really determined.” to keep me in here with Darth crafty female offenders; among The actress was concerned, Vader and Mr. Clean?” PHOTO BY But Lyonne is quick to “I REALLY just want to be a Lyonne, by her own acknowledge Nicky’s dimension role model for the children,” admission, used to feel like this and the depth of feeling masked Natasha Lyonne smirks, a cloud herself on the regular. I’ve had some wear and tear in this by that off-the-cuff witticism. of cigarette smoke billowing out With a Hollywood career “In those reservoirs of pain of her nostrils. She’s perched that began to take off in the late life, but I know that even in the most that come with being that self- on an olive cushion resting Nineties: first with “Slums of destructive, also comes this atop a banquette at Aretsky’s Beverly Hills,” then the megahit buoyancy and survival that Patroon’s rooftop in Midtown “American Pie” and its sequels, graphic and painful of circumstances, comes from what it’s like to come Manhattan. Unlike the rest Lyonne’s ascent was punctuated out on the other side. I feel lucky of the patrons here, the now- in the mid-Aughts with a Gawker- inevitably there’s humor. to be able to inform the character sober Lyonne sips on an iced ready spate of arrests, a much with that degree of honesty. I coffee between drags. “I don’t publicized eviction and a stay in — NATASHA LYONNE think for a lot of actors playing drink anymore, but I have that New York’s Bellevue Hospital. the role of an addict, there’s a hungover feeling from being out Now 34, Lyonne is on the other tendency to overplay the hand late. It was a big night.” side of the coin. She is sober and them, a former nun, a pacifist though, her “Weeds” role would and play that part as a victim of The previous evening, she very together and starring in a yoga master and a transvestite be distracting for Kohan. “I circumstance of substance abuse, joined cast mates at the New series set in the slammer. who curries favor with fellow was playing this like Jersey and I wanted to play Nicky as York Botanical Garden in the Based on the best-selling inmates by teasing their hair. Shore-esqe girl with shellacked just another human being,” she Bronx to premiere their new memoir of the same name by Cue Piper’s cell mate Nicky hair and an orange spray tan. lurches forward to extinguish Netflix original series, “Orange Piper Kerman, “Orange Is the Nichols, a brassy former heroin I’m sitting there in the trailer her cigarette in the ashtray. “ Yo u Is the New Black.” “This is how New Black” is a dark comedy, junkie jailed on a drug-related wearing a tight leopard-print know, at the end of the day we’re like a teenager must feel on the making its debut Thursday, from incident, played startlingly on- velour dress, and I’m thinking, all just another bozo on the bus.” regular,” she groans. Jenji Kohan (the show runner the-nose by Lyonne. ‘I hope they can·· still think of me — T.H. WWD wednesday, july 10, 2013 11 WWD.COM Minister of Commerce Renaud Dutreil; 10 friends and asked them to scavenge philanthropist and filmmakerAbigail Disney, through their out-boxes for contributions. and Pulitzer Prize winner Sheryl WuDunn. In a phone interview Tuesday, July said Fashion scoops Mallis will join Ahalife’s advisory before she started the project it occurred board in mid-July and will eventually to her, “Why create something when there curate a page of things she likes, such as is already so much ready-made material u.S. WooLMARk WinneR: Joseph collection, due to go on sale in travel destinations, items for the home, with all the e-mails out there?” Altuzarra, the designer behind November. They will be priced at books and jewelry. “What’s nice about that A friend of the Mulleavys for years, July Altuzarra, is the U.S. selection around 1,000 euros, or $1,285 at site is each of the things includes a little actually modeled for Rodarte in 2004 and for the 2013-14 International current exchange, for a bracelet story on why you like it,” she said. asked the designers to make the dress she Woolmark Prize, which will be and around 800 euros, or Shauna Mei, founder and chief executive wore to marry film directorMike Mills in 2009. awarded during Milan Fashion $1,025, for a pendant, said officer of Ahalife, told WWD that Mallis will Despite their tie, the artist was respectfully Week in February. nadja Swarovski, member of the bring “lots of relationships and discoveries cautious about getting them involved in We Altuzarra, whose selection Swarovski executive board. that she finds through her travels” to Ahalife. Think Alone. “They are quite private. Even was revealed Tuesday night at A three-piece Maison Martin Since launching two years ago, Ahalife has though I have known them for a long time, Industria Superstudio in New Margiela for Atelier Swarovski cultivated more than one there are still huge gaps about what York, will be awarded $100,000 line will be available for around million users who directly For more I know,” she said. “I felt almost rude toward his next collection, half the price, she added, noting interact with designers and scoops, see asking them but they were so game and have the opportunity to it was the first time that Atelier tastemakers. — L.L. on a friendship level.” participate in the international Swarovski was launching a co- WWD.com Rodarte fans may not be floored competition, representing the branded product with a fashion TAuSSig’S TeAM gRoWS: Retail by what they shared with July. U.S. during the final event. label, after collaborations with investment banker Adam “Anyone who knows them will The son of a French- designers including Christopher Rifkin has left Barclays and is reuniting with know how very ‘them’ their choices were. Basque father and an kane and Marios Schwab. Andrew Taussig and other former colleagues But people who don’t know them won’t get American mother, Altuzarra “It’s really important for at Guggenheim Partners. to know them much better. But their sense grew up in Paris’ 7th us to embrace the vision of Taussig made the jump from Barclays of humor really comes through,” she said. arrondissement, where he the designers and then try to to Guggenheim in April along with cohead — RoSeMARY FeiTeLBeRg attended a traditional French turn that into reality with our Spencer Hart and Ryan Mash. They all serve as lycée before moving Stateside products,” Swarovski told WWD. senior managing director, a title Rifkin will MinkoFF on CAMPuS: For the third installment to Swarthmore College in Four years in the making, pick up when he joins in September. The of Fashion Campus NYC, the New York Pennsylvania. Following Crystalactite fused the crystal team, which focuses on the retail, apparel City Economic Development Corporation internships at Marc Jacobs and and resin during the production and restaurant industries, has raised the and Parsons The New School for Design Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra process so that they form a fashion profile of Guggenheim, a financial has recruited uri Minkoff to give the keynote struck out on his own in 2008. single smooth block, which is services firm with more than $180 billion in address. As the chief executive officer and For the next six months, then cut into stalactite shapes. assets under management. — evAn CLARk cofounder of Rebecca Minkoff, he will share Altuzarra will be asked to develop The resulting pieces combine the his view of the fashion industry with the pool a capsule collection in merino wool clarity of crystal with Margiela’s You’ve goT MAiL: Rodarte’s kate and Laura of fashion and retail management talent. to be showcased along those raw industrial aesthetic. Mulleavy are among the bold-faced names who Minkoff said, “Cultivating business leaders of the other four finalists “To me, these pieces opened up their in-boxes for artist Miranda through programs like Fashion Campus NYC from Europe, India, Asia and are real works of art, and it July’s latest project. The designers along guarantees that we can continue to grow and Australia. The designers will certainly is a breakthrough with kirsten Dunst, Lena Dunham, kareem Abdul- innovate as an industry.” compete for an international An Altuzarra sketch for us in terms of our product Jabbar, Catherine opie, Danh vo and others have To that end, there will also be a panel prize of 100,000 Australian submitted for the development,” said Swarovski. given the artist the go-ahead to blast e-mails discussion and career path workshops dollars, or $91,441 at current Woolmark Prize. “A lot of people see us as a copied from their out-boxes for “We Think presented by executives in marketing, exchange. The winner’s crystal manufacturer, which Alone.” The way this virtual show works is public relations, buying, merchandising, collection will be carried in top retailers is true, but actually our strength is in that anyone can sign up on the We Think e-commerce, product development and globally such as Harvey Nichols, Saks master cutting.” Alone site to receive 10 e-mails each Monday other areas. Parsons Executive Dean Fifth Avenue, 10 Corso Como, Joyce and The pieces will go on sale in through Nov. 11. All of the missives were Joel Towers said: “Through our work with David Jones. — LiSA LoCkWooD about 130 Atelier Swarovski points written before the project was started and NYCEDC, Parsons is extending one of of sale worldwide, in addition to were meant for other people. Commissioned its core values — providing students and MATHuR JoinS ARTSPACe.CoM: kinjil Mathur, an unspecified number of Maison by Magasin 3 Stockholm Konsthall for the emerging professionals with the means to vice president of digital marketing for Martin Margiela stores. It marks the exhibition “On the Tip of My Tongue,” July’s pursue successful careers in design, and Saks Fifth Avenue for the last five years, beginning of an ongoing relationship work is meant to be fleeting. supporting the industry through a strong has been tapped as chief marketing between the two houses, which will She sent 20 different categories to talent pipeline.” — R.F. officer of Artspace.com, effective launch a wider commercial range for immediately. Atelier Swarovski for spring 2014. Mathur comes to Artspace with over — JoeLLe DiDeRiCH a decade of e-commerce and digital marketing experience within the luxury sector. While at Saks, she was part of a team that developed the company’s first flash-sale site and drove steady growth for the international division. That team led the company to more For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. than quadruple its online business during her tenure. Before that, she was online marketing manager, performance marketing at Condé Nast. Spaces At Artspace, her primary focus will be to translate the higher personal experience of shopping in a brick-and- COMMERCIAL mortar gallery setting to the online REAL ESTATE sphere, and elevate Artspace.com’s items from the Maison Martin Margiela for presence within the digital landscape. Atelier Swarovski collection. She is also charged with developing and implementing innovative digital WAng’S SuRPRiSe PARTY: Alexander Wang Growing brand skin has the following marketing strategies to expand invoked the old “veil of secrecy” openings: SHOWROOM Designer - Designer sportswear and Artspace.com’s growing network of marketing strategy, sending out 13 West 38th Street, Manhattan Adja- cent to Lord & Taylor, between 5th lingerie experience required collectors worldwide. e-mails Tuesday with the subject and 6th Aves. Full floor opportunities Sales Account Executive - Must have Artspace.com was founded in ranging from 1200 SF to 1900 SF Con- line “Alexander Wang — Undisclosed tact 646-472-8735 for more info. Designer specialty store contacts USA 2011 by Christopher vroom and Catherine Special Event,” which went on to and International Levene. The site, which raised $8.5 disclose the where and when of the Showrooms & Lofts Contact : [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS million in Series B funding in happening — Saturday, 2 p.m., at the Great ’New’ Office Space Avail February, is an online platform where Highline Stages in Manhattan — but ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 collectors can purchase works by not much more. A public relations top contemporary artists directly representative for Wang said that the from leading commercial galleries event is open to the public on a first- and cultural institutions such as the come, first-serve basis and no special Metropolitan Museum of Art and The press access would be granted. Fans Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum. and followers of the brand can get SALESPERSON A spokeswoman for Saks said a updated information on Twitter at New York Embroidery Studio Well established, New York based con- successor hasn’t been named. — L.L. @AlexanderWangNY. — JeSSiCA iReDALe Beading, Laser Cutting, Smocking, Tucking temporary silk dress line is searching novelty embellishments NYC, China & India for an experienced sales person. Must 212-971-9101 [email protected] be energetic, well organized and have Swarovski has is adding a can-do attitude. At least 5-10 years CuT To THe CHASe: MALLiS’ neW gig: Fern Mallis PATTERNS, SAMPLES, experience serving major apparel re- teamed with Maison Martin Margiela another notch to her belt. She’s PRODUCTIONS tailers. Salary + Commission, with a Full service shop to the trade. fantastic opportunity for growth. Send on a collection of couture and ready- been named to the advisory board of Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 resume to: to-wear jewelry pieces made from Ahalife.com, the digital destination [email protected] Crystalactite, a material that fuses for product discoveries and content. crystal and matte white resin. To date, Ahalife.com has raised $21 The Maison Martin Margiela million in funding from Rakuten, (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] couture show in Paris on July 3 DCM, FirstMark Capital and angel featured pieces from the higher-end investors, including former French

w10a011a.indd 11 7/9/13 8:15 PM 07092013201641

12 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013 ’’ WWD.COM Tougher Rules on Cosmetics Sold in EU {Continued from page one} ment of health and consumers procedures and terminology, sumer…and this isn’t something said enforcing the animal testing during transposition, said a spokesman. “It will also con- which helps everybody.” directed specifically at the cos- ban is a major goal going forward. spokesman for the European tribute to more informed con- Lee noted the changes have metics industry.” Nick Palmer, head of poli- Commission’s department of sumer decision making.” been under way since 2010 Nanomaterials are present in a cy at the European Coalition health and consumers. Cosmetics Europe has been but are solely applicable on wide range of consumer products. to End Animal Experiments, The current EU Cosmetics “very involved” in working with Thursday. Daniela Sacerdote, chief ex- agreed implementation is com- Directive already states that the commission on the new The requirement to label ecutive officer of Italian cosmet- plex, with some EU countries “labeling, marketing and ad- framework, said Virginia Lee, nanomaterials should not alarm ics brand Collistar, believes the more proactive than others. vertising of cosmetic products, new regulation eliminates red “The main potential risk is texts, names, trademarks, pic- tape and facilitates free trade. that companies ‘forget’ to men- tures and figurative or other She explained if formerly a tion animal tests done in other signs cannot be used to imply We’d like to see all EU members cosmetics product had to be reg- countries and are not specifi- that these products have char- istered (or “notified,” in EU jar- cally asked about it,” he said. acteristics or functions which gon) in one country, then again “We’d like to see all EU mem- they do not have.” However, have their trading standards bodies in the various countries where a bers have their trading stan- Article 20 of the Cosmetics company chose to export — with dards bodies inspect the prod- Regulation takes this require- inspect the product information files different systems and adminis- uct information files whenever ment one step further by intro- trative obligations — “the new they check cosmetics.…To only ducing six common criteria — [centralized] notification system look at specific complaints is “legal compliance, truthfulness, whenever they check cosmetics. makes everything faster and insufficient, since it is not an evidential support, honesty, more fluid. The advantages for obvious issue that will neces- fairness and informed decision — NICK PALMER, EuRoPEAN CoALItIoN companies that rely heavily on sarily get reported.” making” — to justify claims exports are obvious.” Meanwhile, by 2014, the made about cosmetics. to ENd ANIMAL ExPERIMENts The legislative modifica- EU Commission will publish a The new regulation “no- tions on cosmetics are ongoing. complete catalogue of nanoma- tably strengthens the safe- the personal care trade associa- consumers about their safety, As previously reported, the ban terials used in cosmetics and ty of cosmetic products for tion’s director of communica- according to Lee. forbidding the import and sale thereafter release annual status consumers, streamlines the tion and public affairs. “It doesn’t change the prod- of animal-tested cosmetics prod- reports on these ingredients. framework for all actors and “We really welcome [the reg- uct. We’ve been using nano- ucts and ingredients in the EU And by Jan. 11, 2015, it will re- simplifies procedures,” said a ulation],” she added. “There is materials for years,” she said. went into effect on March 11. view rules pertaining to the use European Commission depart- going to be a simplification of “It’s about informing the con- The Commission spokesman of endocrine disruptors.

to purchase items featured on the sec- ond season of NBC’s “Fashion Star” as Nordstrom Tops Department Store Study they came down the runway on a mobile ’’ device. The latter resulted in 50 percent {Continued from page one} thirds represent technology investments bile points of sale or scheduling store greater online sales than the year prior, “a format under attack and the organi- to improve the customer experience and visits using Web-enabled data. when consumers had to wait until mid- zations pulling themselves out are the to strengthen our infrastructure to sup- “The future of multichannel is pretty night to purchase on macys.com. ones that have realized they have to port the growth of the business and the open. Right now, companies are just fo- “In year two [of ‘Fashion Star’] we rec- win online, and winning online doesn’t accelerated pace of change.” cused on the inventory piece, which is ognized how important the second screen just mean making robust e-commerce On the same call, Nordstrom presi- critical. Then they’ll focus on mobile and was to the viewer,” Reardon said. “Even investments, but making investments dent Blake Nordstrom said that over communication with customers or re- though it was a fun marketing element, it online that drive traffic to the brick- 100 new features were added to nord- mote sales associates using some type of also drove a lot of sales.” and-mortar business. If you look at the strom.com during the first quarter. He video chat,” Mulpuru said. While department stores are still the guys at the top of the list, they are mak- acknowledged that personalization is an Macy’s Inc.’s chief marketing officer, preferred channel for consumers to pur- ing huge capital commitments, upgrad- area the department store is just begin- Martine Reardon, called the leveraging chase luxury brands, there is increasing ing operations and making inventory ning to explore. of inventory online and offline “criti- competition from the brands themselves. more flexible — and that is because “We’re still in the early stages in the cally important” to the department store. “Michael Kors was roughly a $300 they have to compete with the likes area of personalization — in essence, million business in 2009, with a third of of Amazon and live up to the expecta- customizing the experience on our site, sales coming from direct [to consumer]. tion of two-day fulfillment and almost providing product recommendations Now half is direct sales, which makes boundless inventory.” and building tools that help with fit the battleground even tougher for the de- A “bigger is better” mentality also ap- and style,” Nordstrom said. Investing partment stores,” Mullen said. plies to department stores — and Mullen in robust search and behavioral target- She noted that for the first time in said it is a myth that the Internet is a ed marketing is key, too. According to 2012, Compagnie Financière Richemont “level playing field” for these retailers. Mullen, search drives 45 percent of the conducted more than 50 percent of its Nordstrom, Macy’s, Saks and Marks & stores’ Web traffic on average — includ- sales through vertical channels — a com- Spencer, combined, have average online ing paid and organic searches — with e- bination of operated and owned bou- revenues per year of $1.7 billion. mail driving 6.3 percent of traffic. Social tiques and e-commerce. The latter busi- Eighty-five percent of the stores media has consistently decreased in ness is mainly driven by Net-a-porter, in the study maintain an e-commerce terms of the weight it carries within L2’s seventh place in the study. business (France’s Printemps, Canada’s studies (it comprised just 10 percent of “Historically, [Richemont’s] been a Holt Renfrew and Russia’s GUM still the ranking), and Mullen calls it more of wholesale business. When you look at don’t sell online) and a quarter have a brand awareness and customer acqui- other luxury brands and products that implemented live-chat functional- sition tool and less of a driver of traffic department stores sell, they are doing ities into their sites. Ninety-eight per- and/or commerce. more and more sales direct,” Mullen cent of those examined by L2 have a In addition to large-scale technology said of mounting obstacles for depart- Facebook page, even though just 2 per- investments that integrate point-of-sale ment stores, a sector she said has been cent of overall Web traffic for depart- systems with e-commerce fulfillment in decline for “the better part of the ment stores comes from social media. centers, the advantage department stores last 15 years.” Surprisingly, less than half of the stores have — particularly those in major shop- Mobile also remains a priority — and have video content on their sites — ping cities — is plum real estate. Using department stores especially have the with only 18 percent integrating video your digital properties to drive consum- scale to get shoppers using mobile apps or on product pages. ers into your store — arguably the big- even pilot in-store mobile programs. For Saks and Lord & Taylor are the only gest asset for retailers like Printemps, Mullen, an area greatly untapped from two retailers in the study to auto-detect a Harrods or Bergdorf ’s — is an enormous a tactical standpoint is tablet optimiza- user’s location based on their IP address. opportunity, especially for retailers con- tion. The only retailer on the list with a Mullen attributed success in the space strained by location. fully optimized tablet site is Netherlands- to significant investments in enhancing For Sucharita Mulpuru, vice presi- based de Bijenkorf (ranked 16). offline presence to aid in quicker online dent and principal analyst at Forrester In a separate study conducted by the fulfillment, updated mobile apps that fa- Research, extended assortment of Luxury Institute last month, Nordstrom cilitate the sharing of product reviews product online is the most important Fulfillment centers can be considered also nabbed the top spot as the retailer and knowledgeable in-store associates function to succeeding. This and re- stores in addition to warehouses and dis- wealthy consumers turn to most often equipped with iPads. lated store inventory elements, like the tribution centers, and in June the retailer for purchases. Luxury Institute chief In Nordstrom Inc.’s first-quarter earn- ability to order from specific locations introduced functionality that allowed 500 executive officer Milton Pedraza cited ings call in May, chief financial officer or pick up online purchases in-store of its stores to act as distribution centers. technology and the retailer’s Web site as Mike Koppel reiterated the retailer’s (Nordstrom began doing this in 2008 Additionally, the retailer has repeat- a contributing factor. plans to pump about $900 million into and a shared inventory platform with edly garnered attention in the space “They’ve been able to cultivate a the company’s e-commerce and digital seamless fulfillment online and in-store for what Reardon refers to “branded significant amount of sales online,” programs through 2017. was introduced the following year), are entertainment.” Recent examples in- Pedraza said. “They are probably as “Approximately one-third of that $900 where the lion’s share of omnichannel clude a Black Friday app created ex- good as Amazon in that regard. They million relates to our fulfillment capabil- investments are focused. She’s not sure pressly for the shopping holiday, special don’t sell everything that Amazon does, ities, largely through expanding capac- if same-day delivery makes sense for content corresponding with the Macy’s but they make it so easy to use that it’s ity,” Koppel said. “The remaining two- most retailers, but the next step is mo- Thanksgiving Day Parade and the ability highly competitive.”

w10a012a;8.indd 12 7/9/13 7:57 PM 07092013195745 WWDSWIMSECTION II BY KIM FRIDAY BY

Out of EMMIE MARTIN; STYLED ASSISTANT: NIKKI REFGHI, ZHE ZHU; FASHION JEN MYLES USING MAC COSMETICS;ARE; MAKEUP BY PHOTO ASSISTANTS: Africa

Ethnic prints are a key trend that will be driving business during Miami Swim Week, July 19 to 23. VENDORS POISED FOR GLOBAL GROWTH

Gottex’s polyamide and elastane cutout swimsuit ONES TO WATCH and matching head scarf. R.J. Graziano earrings. PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE AT AIRE ANCIENT BATHS NYC; MODEL: CALEIGH/WILHELMINA MODELS; HAIR BY CARI DUPREY FOR PHYTO HAIRC MODEL: CALEIGH/WILHELMINA MODELS; HAIR BY NYC; AIRE ANCIENT BATHS GEORGE CHINSEE AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013

SECTION II FOR MORE, WWD.COM SEE WWD.com/ WWDSWIM fashion-news.

SWIMWEAR IS POISED for worldwide growth. The global swimwear and beachwear market is Catch a Wave estimated to be close to $16.5 billion this year, and is further projected to grow at a compounded annual Having evolved into a year-round growth rate of 3.1 percent to $19.4 billion by 2018, according to Global Industry Analysts Inc. And that business, swimwear and beachwear means big opportunities for makers and merchants in the category. are emerging as hot growth For the U.S. swim and beachwear market — which categories. By Karyn Monget currently generates more than $4.18 billion in com- bined women’s, men’s and kids’ swimwear — key fac- tors include increasing consciousness about health and fitness, emphasis on wellness and body care, the esca- lation of beauty and spa industries worldwide, and the introduction of innovative products, such as UV protec- tion swimsuits and thermal swimwear, say executives. There’s also increasing consumer demand for new and improved products through fashion and innova- tion, as well as high-tech applications and fabrics like Invista Inc.’s flagship swimwear fiber Xtra Life Lycra, which features lasting fit and resists fiber breakage caused by sunscreen, chlorine and oxidation. In the U.S., the postrecession economy doesn’t ap- pear to have impacted sales of women’s swimwear, which have held steady with a slight 0.2 percent in- crease to $2.89 billion from May 2012 to April 2013, re- ported The NPD Group/Consumer Tracking Service. Manufacturer-owned outlets garnered the heftiest dollar share gain — a whopping 247 percent — followed by a 12.8 percent spike at direct-mail and e-commerce businesses. Sales at specialty stores and warehouse clubs grew 10.1 percent and 8.7 percent, respectively. Following a strong preview week in June at show- rooms in New York and Los Angeles, industry execu- tives said they are bullish about sales in the fourth quarter and the first half of 2014. Now regarded as a year-round business, vendors are increasingly offer- ing expanded core basics in a range of fashion colors and prints for immediate delivery, as well as multi- purpose items such as convertible swimwear tops and layering pieces that can double as ready-to-wear. Beach cover-ups are also a strong classification, and a growing number of consumers are wearing long and short cover-ups as leisure dresses and evening gowns. In the men’s arena, there’s also big demand for du- al-purpose items such as shorts, particularly board- shorts, that are being worn as casual clothing. Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD, said global swimwear will “definitely have a good year in Anne Cole Signature’s nylon 2014. Casual dressing is taking on a new dimension, and spandex swimsuit. and swimwear is absolutely poised to have a very good year because of that and other lifestyle factors.” In southern Florida, “Meet Me in Miami” is fast be- coming a favorite phrase among swimwear executives who plan to launch brands and collaborations in an in- SHOWS AT A GLANCE Captiva by Christina’s nylon, polyamide and ternational spotlight. Besides being a global swimwear spandex skirted bikini. mecca, executives said the cachet of Miami’s Latin CABANA R.J. Graziano bangle. {Continued on page 4} Venue: On the beach along Collins Avenue between the W and Setai hotels Dates: July 20 to 22 is translated into her swimwear ugly wet suits…so I thought it would Hours: Daily, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. designs, which have been created be great if I designed crazy, killer Kickoff party and fashion show: July 19, Ones to Watch in-house since 2012. She says she wet suits that are printed in Italy Soho Beachhouse, in partnership got into the swim business after and sent to Asia to be made with with Style Saves WHETHER ACTIVELY involved she couldn’t find a wet suit that was welded seams,” said Rowley. with water sports or inspired by functional and stylish. “I think it’s important for fashion MIAMI SWIMSHOW & LINGERIE SHOW the trending beach and surf culture “Being such a water sports brands to stay relevant, and for Venue: Miami Convention Center, worldwide, designers of these hip person, I hated the idea of wearing me, swimwear is part of my brand 1901 Convention Center Drive brands offer a fresh spin to their identity, and that’s very important. Dates: July 20 to 23 assortments with signature prints, Fitness, health, sun and surf are Hours: July 20, 22, 23, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; bold splashes of color and specialty all part of me and my brand ID. It July 21, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. fabrics. Among the new offerings underscores the importance of a Fashion Show and After Party: are figure-flattering Neoprene or healthy lifestyle.” July 21, 5 p.m. (by invitation) lightweight microfiber blends of The designer further noted elastane with nylon and polyamide, that her company has developed a MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK SWIM as well as tops and cover-ups that “breathable and bonded” Neoprene Venue: The Raleigh Hotel, can be worn on the beach, to a fabric that will eventually be used in 1775 Collins Avenue poolside party or on the club circuit. other categories. Dates: July 18 to 22 Here, a look at designer brands to “I’ve been using it in the rtw Hours: July 18, 8 to 10 p.m.; keep an eye on for cruise and spring. collection for a couple of years,” July 19, 6 to 10 p.m.; July 20, 11 a.m. — K.M. quipped Rowley. to 10 p.m.; July 21, noon to 10 p.m.; Cynthia Rowley swimwear will July 22, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. CYNTHIA ROWLEY: SURF’S UP be exhibited at SwimShow for the Kickoff Party and Informal Modeling: Many people might think of ready- first time. July 18, 8 p.m. (by invitation) to-wear designer Cynthia Rowley Suggested retail will average $225 as being happiest wearing one of for bikinis, $235 for one-piece suits, SALON ALLURE her trendy dress designs — not a $195 for rash guards and $210 to $350 Venue: W South Beach, Neoprene wet suit. for wet suits. 2201 Collins Avenue But Rowley is a fierce water Dates: July 20 to 23 sports enthusiast, and she says she GREENLEE SWIM: THE GREEN EFFECT Hours: July 20, 1 to 6 p.m.; July 21 would rather be surfing, stand-up Casey Greenlee, founder and to 23, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. boarding, snorkeling or swimming designer of the Greenlee brand, Kickoff Party and Fashion Show: any day of the week in one of her has developed a specialty niche: July 19, 7 p.m. (by invitation) sporty swimsuits or printed wet suits. Cynthia Rowley’s nylon and elastane Rowley’s passion for water sports swimsuit and Neoprene wet suit. {Continued on page 4}

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: MADISON/FORD MODELS; HAIR BY JASON MURILLO USING SEBASTIAN AT 1+1 MGMT; MAKEUP BY MISUZU MIYAKE FOR MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANTS: REBECCA SCHECHNER, ZHE ZHU; FASHION ASSISTANT: RACHEL BARE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY

4 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDSWIM Among new members, she added, Araujo, Luli Fama, Caffé Swimwear, Sauvage, Maaji are Dsquared2, Balmain, Tom Ford Swimwear, Naila, 6 Shore Road, Zingara Swimwear, Sunglasses, Givenchy Sunglasses, A.Che Swim, Aguaclara, Aquarella Swimwear, Amanda Wakeley, Cynthia Rowley, Minimale Animale and Caitlin Kelly. Catch a Wave Save the Queen, Tara Matthews, To engage more fashionable consumers and extend and Frescobol Carioca. There will the momentum across South Beach, IMG Fashion is also be a new line collaboration also doing two film screenings: “The Tents,” a docu- {Continued from page 2} between Melissa Odabash and mentary to be shown on the making of Mercedes-Benz beat, Art Deco architecture and glittery night life will Gwyneth Paltrow. Fashion Week, on July 16, and a screening on July 20 be enhanced this year by nearly double the number of A large turnout of interna- of “Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf ’s,” to be hosted by catwalk shows and presentations, parties and spalike tional retailers is expected at Bergdorf Goodman senior vice president Linda Fargo perks hosted by entrepreneurs and beachfront hotels. SwimShow, said Stein, consistent and designer Naeem Khan. Guido Campello, vice president of Miami-based with the 10 percent growth rate Neault added that the number of international at- Cosabella, described the mood of exhibitors and re- the fair has registered each year. tendees is growing at a fast clip. “We now have several tailers this way: “When people come to Miami, they There are more than 2,500 brands brands from Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Spain, India and want to enjoy the hotels, get to the beach….Buyers from 60-plus countries, and more Australia. Miami is the gateway to Latin America, and will definitely be looking for ‘me’ time. It’s now much than 2,000 buyers are expected. In we get a lot of press from Latin America,” she said. more about the Miami Beach culture, and buyers all, more than 8,500 people will Addressing the importance of the Miami venue, know they have two free [expenses paid] attend. There will be expanded Linda Sassoon, president of Gottex USA and Canada, days and they want to enjoy it. Hotels like Cosabella Mare areas for lingerie and men’s and said the brand has been exhibiting at SwimShow for The Webster, The Delano, The Raleigh and children’s products, as well as a more than two decades. “The show is very useful for W South Beach are motivated to host the polyamide and new space dedicated to active and most of our customers, even those who preview [the col- buyers — especially W, which has been at elastane bikini; lifestyle-oriented merchandise. lection] in June. We present a 35-to-40-minute fashion the forefront of promoting Miami Beach.” Cleobella’s A main supporter of Miami show with eight models at the Gottex stand so people Several major trade fairs, as well as cotton crochet Swim Week is Invista, which will can get an overview of what’s going on,” she said. smaller boutique-style settings in hotel skirt. Brookes be a sponsor of the Comfort Zone The Gottex collection comprises four groups: suites, will kick off the cruise 2013 and Boswell hat; at SwimShow, a lounge where at- Essentials, at the opening price point; Contour, spring 2014 seasons with a slew of new col- R.J. Graziano tendees can relax and learn more which offers shaping; Classics, a signature print-driv- lections, brands and first-time exhibitors. bangle. about Xtra Life Lycra through en group for traditional Gottex customers, and New Venues include the Miami SwimShow & brochures and videos. Invista Vision, a contemporary line. Lingerie Show at the Miami Convention will also support Salon Allure. “This has been successful for us because it makes Center, catering to a broad spectrum of brands and “We’ve been a sponsor of Salon Allure for the past it [the collection] very clear for buyers and custom- running July 20 to 23. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week four years, but this is the first year as title sponsor. ers,” explained Sassoon. Swim at The Raleigh Hotel in South Beach will host We’ll be part of a video and photo shoot with a Sports Exposure to the international marketplace during more than 30 designer runway shows, presentations Illustrated model wearing swimwear brands with Swim Week is “inspirational” for Julie Gosselin, head and special events throughout the week. Xtra Life Lycra fiber from the Salon Allure show,” designer at Trimera Swim of Montreal. Trimera’s There will also be a bevy of popular formats said Dianne W. Lober, Invista’s marketing commu- portfolio includes Oakley, Captiva by Christina, like Salon Allure at the W South Beach (also July nications manager. “A live fashion show and open- Contour by Christina, Be Creative and the licensed 20 to 23), inside private suites, where exhibitors ing-night party on July 19 will feature a video of the BCBGeneration brands. will include Marysia Swim, 6 Shore Road, Acacia photo shoot streaming in the background.” “It’s very directional for me as a designer. I love to Swimwear, Barraca Chic, Issa de’ mar, Kikidoll, Rick Fatzinger, cofounder of Salon Allure, said hear which styles, colors and prints people respond to Mikoh Swimwear, Salt Swimwear, So De Mel Swim the alliance with Invista is “an essential element and want for future collections. The show gives me di- and Greenlee Swim. in continuing to move the swim industry forward. rection for 2015,” she said. Cabana, a new concept created by Sam Ben- Representing the highest quality in design and per- For Nicole Hanriot, founder and designer of Avraham and Janet Wong, will take place in a formance, Xtra Life Lycra is the natural partner for California-based Beach Riot, Miami is the go-to des- 15,000-square-foot tent situated on a stretch of ocean- Salon Allure.” tination to drum up business. front sand between the W and the Setai Miami Beach The action will also be heating up at “We love it because it’s so international — we hotels. Scheduled for July 20 to 22, Cabana will host Mercedez-Benz Fashion Week Swim, where hope to build business in Japan at SwimShow. brands like Mara Hoffman, Tori Praver, Calypso St. shows and presentations will be staged We’ll be launching our first resort collection, Barth, Miguelina, Sundek, Bantu, Venroy and Liya hourly from 6 to 11 p.m. at The Raleigh a collaboration with Stone Cold Fox, and an Kebede’s Lemlem. hotel, said Christina Neault, execu- accessories line of sunglasses, bikini bags Also new to Swim Week will be Standard Swim tive producer of IMG Fashion Events and beach towels,” she said. at the Standard Spa, replete with a mud lounge and and Properties, which operates the Among the collaborations launching infinity pool as well as a barbecue hosted with The Mercedes-Benz extravaganza. at SwimShow is an endeavor between Webster and karaoke with Linda Farrow. Standard “This event draws celebrities who Peter Som and Parasolsun.com, Swim will showcase swimwear collections by Araks, have houses in Miami, and we get a huge a luxe resort brand founded by Prism and We Are Handsome, while Ivy Kirzhner amount of buzz,” said Neault. “Over five days, Alexandra Kotur, former style di- and Melissa Shoes will show swim-inspired footwear we will host over 10,000 members of the press, rector at Vogue. Parasolsun.com, and accessories. buyers, designers [and] stylists.” which features swimwear and This year’s SwimShow, which is celebrating its 31st Among the MBFWS festivities is a kickoff cover-ups that protect the skin anniversary, will be packed with a record number of party celebrating 25 years of Roxy swim- against harmful sun exposure, will fashion shows, events and seminars, said Judy Stein, wear with the Roxy Pop Surf launch. also present a new line of hats, executive director of the Swimwear Association of Informal modeling will be fol- sunscreens and sunglasses. Florida, organizer of SwimShow. lowed by the 2014 swim collections “Peter Som has designed a “SwimShow is expanding this year,” said Stein. of Nanette Lepore, Oakley, Gottex, print for us in two colorways “We’re adding another hall at the Miami Beach BCBGeneration, Suboo, L’Space — a graphic geometric print Convention Center offering close to 400,000 square feet. by Monica Wise, Agua Bendita, PP in bright colors,” said Fernanda The demand for space at SwimShow has absolutely By Paola Robba, Dolores Cortes, Niven, creative director of skyrocketed, which meant at times we had to turn away Beach Bunny, Nicolita, Aqua Di Parasolsun.com. “The idea new brands. This expansion will give more companies a Lara, Mara Hoffman, Vix, Paula Parasol’s cotton terry cover-up. Warby is to do a collaboration for chance to show and become one of our members.” Hermanny, CM Cia Maritima, A.Z Parker sunglasses, Converse sneakers. every collection and season.”

tribal prints and solid colors like red — designing beach umbrellas in alone show with Mercedes-Benz on July and a special Kelly green I’ve created. fashion-forward prints and colors 19, and we’ve rented a home in Miami to Ones to Watch There will also be a new natural shade for trendy beach goers — turned do intimate presentations with buyers {Continued from page 2} that’s skin-tone friendly.” out to be a thriving business for Sue and the media,” she added. She added that the brand’s first Di Chio, founder and designer of While the brand is print-driven, Di environmentally friendly swimwear. one-piece swimsuit will be unveiled at Australia-based Suboo. Chio said this year’s focus The California-based label was Salon Allure. “It all started in 2008 as a hobby, will be specialty fabrics launched last year with six basic bikini ‘This will be the first time we’ve designing beach umbrellas with really and embellishments. separates, all of which were ever exhibited anywhere, and we cool prints and colors,” said Di Chio. These include Japanese rendered in 82 percent chose Salon Allure because it offers “All of a sudden, we had a huge fashion bonded lace with recycled plastic. an intimate experience for the buyers. following. We quickly expanded into black Lycra spandex, “We’ve become That way we’re able to get more one- beach-related accessories, and then we laser-cut Neoprene known as LRB on-one personal time with retailers,” launched swimwear in 2012.” zip-skirts and — Little Recycled explained Greenlee. “We didn’t want The swimwear and cover-ups, which sequined leopard Bikini,” said Greenlee. a traditional trade show experience, now account for 15 percent of total prints. “We’ll be showing which can be overwhelming.” business, will be shown at SwimShow, Suggested retail a mix-and-match Suggested retail will average $83 where Di Chio will also host a bevy of for bikini sets will capsule line, and to $87 for separates, while the one- bloggers at the Suboo stand. average $170 to $200; will be adding eight piece style will be $198. All styles are Di Chio said she felt it was one-piece swimsuits bikini styles in self-lined. important to get as much exposure as will be $180 to $240. possible at Miami Swim Week. Greenlee Swim’s polyamide and SUBOO: FROM PARASOLS TO “As a brand, it’s an excellent platform Suboo’s sequined elastane swimsuit. Physician SWIMWEAR to launch anything you’re doing, and to polyester T-shirt and Endorsed for Gottex hat. What started out as a let the media and buyers know you as bikini bottom. R.J. pleasurable pastime a brand….We’ll also be doing a stand- Graziano bangles.

SHAPING SWIMWEAR LAUNCHING AT $118

MIAMI SWIM SHOW BOOTH 234 WWW.TRIMERASWIM.COM

8 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013 SECTION II

WWD mysteriousSWIM EXOTIC PRINTS INSPIRED BY NORTH AFRICA HAVE THE SWIM MARKET BUZZING.

Letarte’s nylon and Lycra spandex Clover Canyon’s Kore Swim’s nylon swimsuit. R.J. Graziano necklace; polyester and spandex Falconiere harem bracelets. and spandex cutout swimsuit. tankini. Falconiere halter. R.J. Graziano bangles.

Mara Hoffman’s nylon and spandex laser cut bikini; Gracia’s polyurethane and polyester fringe top. ANTS: NIKKI REFGHI, ZHE ZHU; FASHION ASSISTANT: EMMIE MARTIN ASSISTANT: ANTS: NIKKI REFGHI, ZHE ZHU; FASHION MODEL: CALEIGH/WILHELMINA MODELS; HAIR BY CARI DUPREY FOR PHYTO HAIRCARE; MAKEUP BY JEN MYLES USING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSIST MAKEUP BY CARI DUPREY FOR PHYTO HAIRCARE; MODEL: CALEIGH/WILHELMINA MODELS; HAIR BY PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE AT AIRE ANCIENT BATHS NYC, ANCIENTBATHSNY.COM; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013 9 WWD.COM

Jo de Mer’s polyamide and spandex swimsuit. Ben-Amun ways by Isaac Manevitz bangles. 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2013

SECTION II FOR MORE, SEE WWD.COM WWD.com/ WWDSWIM fashion-news.

THE HIT LISTTop trends for cruise 2014.

MODERN GRAPHIC Trina Turk Giejo Lenny

THE SURREALIST Zero + Anna Maria Coroneo; Cornejo Just Bones Speedo

COUNTRY GIRL Roksanda Shoshanna Lolli Ilincic Swim

NEW ROMANTICS

La Belle Aquarella Rebelle Swimwear Zimmermann

ANCHORS AWAY Shivan & Sperry Narresh Tor y Top-Sider Burch

MOLDED FUTURE

Mary Skye & Grace Vitamin A Staghorn

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY CRUISE 2014 | Miami Swim Show | Booth #832 & #833

Call for more information • 800.647.8688

tommybahama.com