WFW70 Preview Book Rose C

PREVIEW appreciating sparkling wine, while the says Avellan, admitting that while a lot topic du jour of lightstrike is suitably The authors call it how of people love them, the characters of the § illuminating. Selosse style are “quite the opposite of they see it. Champagne’s The authors call it how they see it. brut nature style, for what I appreciate in fine Champagne.” Champagne’s brut nature style, for Which characters? “Massive instance, emerged when consumers instance, emerged concentration, distinctive oxidation, An authoritative, comprehensive guide to “were influenced by wine snobs who […] when consumers “were dominant flor-yeast characters and thought that Champagnes without any influenced by wine prominent oakiness.” Much the same the ever-growing world of fine fizz dosage must somehow be superior.” applies to David Léclapart: “I would The snobs are put firmly in their place: snobs who thought that love to love them [but] loving these “the result […] would often be better with Champagnes without any requires an extremist palate or a palate a little sugar.” The authors suggest that dosage must be superior” used to ‘natural wines.’” There’s the rub. play a supporting role but doesn’t have before the new Cava legislation the style may better suit a sunnier Acknowledging that oxidative styles Christie’s World to take center stage. A growing global addressed many of the issues. climate such as Franciacorta. In have developed a cult following, the Encyclopedia of thirst for fizz, abetted by a changing Germany, Geisenheim is “the funny farm Roederer, Taittinger, and Veuve Clicquot, authors (a) believe that distinctive Champagne & climate and a serious approach to Truly global of all funny farms when it comes to to the briefest of thumbnail sketches— oxidation marked by oxidative aromas making sparkling wine from quality The degree of inclusivity to be expected creating a multitude of boring grape according to the importance the authors —that is, detectable aromas of Sparkling Wine grapes, has resulted in a reappraisal of from a volume such as this depends on crosses.” On disgorgement-date labeling, attach to the producer. acetaldehyde—is a fault; and (b) clearly (4th Edition) the style. Now that fizz can be enjoyed as the claims for it made by its authors. the authors are clear: It should be Typically, bigger profiles are broken don’t like the styles. an apéritif, an ice-breaker, or with food, The clue is in the title. To live up to its mandatory, as it is in Franciacorta down into three parts: the history and Tom Stevenson and it has become a wine for all occasions. billing, a global encyclopedia should and Clàssic Penedès. Interestingly, the other relevant information, followed Authoritative and comprehensive Essi Avellan MW Into this brave new world, the fourth seek to cover all the bases. As a reference authors say that there is no evidence by an assessment of the house style and Profiles of “other French” sparkling-wine edition of Christie’s World Encyclopedia work, this fourth edition commendably to suggest that the tank method is range, and then star ratings with a brief producers occupy nearly 60 further Published by Bloomsbury Absolute of Champagne & Sparkling Wine has ticks the boxes and can lay justifiable an intrinsically inferior method of lowdown of each wine based on tasting. pages before the start of the country- 800 pages; $270 / £200 arrived with no little avoirdupois. The claim to being both wide-ranging and sparkling-wine production (to the Subjective judgment animates what by-country sections beginning with enterprise began with a first edition in authoritative. The breadth of its scope traditional), citing Wegeler-Deinhard’s might otherwise be monotonous. the British Isles. This sees Nyetimber REVIEWED BY 1998 by Tom Stevenson, whose seminal is its great strength, even if blanket experiments with Bernkasteler Doktor. Occasional boxes on, for instance, at the top, closely followed by Gusbourne, ANTHONY ROSE book on Champagne was first published coverage sometimes means having The meat of the book lies in its “Why is Grand Siècle so special?” add and while it is largely comprehensive, in 1986. As the world of fizz expanded, to scrape the bottom of a mediocre country-by-country producer profiles, oomph. The spotlight on less familiar there is no room for Simpsons or The Stevenson was joined in 2013 for the stainless-steel vat or oak cask. each section of which is preceded by a growers and smaller houses is valuable: Grange. Germany is well covered, with n the world of fine wine, Bordeaux 528-page third edition by Essi Avellan, The book begins with a brief history scene-setting introduction. The 220 Cédric Bouchard, Coessens, Corbon, Raumland’s stock on the up, at 87 from and Burgundy were the first classic a Finnish Master of Wine with an setting the scene in Champagne, taking pages on Champagne (versus 150 in Doyard, Guibor Fils, Lassaigne, Lassalle, 85—still, in my view, too low. Reflecting IFrench wine regions to find insatiable thirst for the bubble. The us to the turn of the 20th century and the 2013 edition) make this, effectively, Margaine, Moussé, Prévost, and Suenen, its status as “perhaps currently the most themselves flattered by imitation, and revised and expanded fourth edition the revolutionary invention, by one a book within a book, with a lengthy to mention just a handful. Almost all dynamic sparkling-wine country,” Italy the Rhône and the Loire were next to runs to 800 pages. In the 2013 edition, Armand Walfart, of disgorgement introduction; new and improved producers have had their scores revised is allocated 82 pages, up from 38, the become the focus for tribute acts Avellan had just a year to realize a à la glace. Introductory chapters explain maps; and more on the revision plans, upward from the earlier edition—some, next-largest chapter after Champagne. worldwide. From a trickle to a torrent, “mission impossible.” Working since the various techniques of the sparkling- environmental issues, and the rise of like Bouchard and Collin, by quite a This is justified by both the volume of reproductions became desirable then on the fastest-expanding category wine process lucidly, with an expanded grower single-vineyard Champagnes. considerable margin. production, even if the bulk of that is originals, and blind tastings showed us in wine has given her the scope to section on assemblage, the construction Producer profiles vary in length and style Which brings us to Selosse. “The Prosecco, and the diversity of its three what we already suspected: that it had research in greater depth and cover of the cuvée, and yeast autolysis. —from four or more pages for Bollinger, style is so challenging for me […] I still major quality regions: Franciacorta, become possible to make great Cabernet, new ground. Recognizing its importance, there’s Dom Pérignon, Krug, Philipponnat, cannot come up with points for it,” Trentino, and Alta Langa. Trentino’s Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and The Encyclopedia remains a joint an important new addition on dosage, Sauvignon Blanc outside France and that venture by two of the world’s leading as well as a note on jetting technology terroir no longer had to be reverentially authorities and most indefatigable at bottling and (geek alert) a lengthy AUTHORS’ ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS CONTENTS Trying to compile a list of all the people who USA, for wines of Sonoma); Dr Guido (ViniPortugal); Mattia Montanari (Opera 2, have helped in the process of making this Bezzo (Consorzio per la Tutela dell’Asti); for Lambrusco di Modena);Eran Pick MW book is a challenge as so many people have Pedro Pina Brito (for wines of Portugal); (for wines of Israel); Markus Pickens (Wine whispered with a French accent. Thanks tasters, but as in the case of the 2013 discourse on corks and closures. contributed in one way or another. First of Jim Budd (wine writer, for the wines of the Marlborough); Innocente Nardi (Consorzio 8 INTRODUCTION all, thank you Jon Croft and Emily North Loire); Dan Buckle (for wines of Australia); Tutela del Vino Conegliano Valdobbiadene 8 How to use this book; 9 Foreword; 10 Author’s Introduction; 11 The Champagne & and the rest of the team at Absolute. It has Ernst Büscher (Deutsches Weininsitut); Prosecco); Giulia Pussini (Consorzio Sparkling Wine World Championships; 13 A Little History; 19 How Sparkling Wines been a pleasure making this book a reality Maria Canuto (Consell Regulador de Tutela del Vino Conegliano Valdobbiadene Are Made; 21 A Step-by-Step Guide to the Traditional Method; 33 The Elusive Quality; together. Also our editor Ruth Arnold has la DOP Cava); Antoine Clasen (for Prosecco); Alexia Putze (VDP. Die 36 Matters of Terroir; 44 Putting on the Style; 51 Bottle Sizes; 54 Storing and Serving; to the long-established preeminence of edition, Avellan is credited as the author, Three detailed sections follow: been a key contributor in the making. wines of Luxembourg); Gloria Collell Prädikatsweingüter); Sanna Pöyry (for 58 The Perfect Champagne Glass; 60 Appreciating Sparkling Wine World Encyclopedia of We are grateful to Dr Andrew Pirie for (Freixenet); Pierre du Couedic (UPECB, wines of Champagne); Tuomas Rahkamaa sharing his groundbreaking world map on France); Antoine Clasen (Crémants of (for wines of Champagne); Amanda SPARKLING WINES OF THE WORLD suitable climates for sparkling winemaking. Luxembourg); Daniel Cousin (Société de Regan (wine writer, for wines of France Champagne, the challenge to its position and she takes responsibility for all the on quality factors, terroir issues, and Also, gratitude is in order for Dr Tony Viticulture du Jura); Steve DiFrancesco including Champagne); Magnus Reuterdahl FRANCE Jordan, who, during the process of writing (Glenora Wine Cellars, New York); Fabio (for wines of Sweden); Stefano Ricagno 63 Champagne this edition and in between the editions, Ferrari (Consorzio Tutela del Lambrusco (for wines of Acqui, Asti & Alta Langa); 283 Other French Sparkling Wines has continuously made himself available di Modena); Pieter Ferreira (Graham Giuseppe Salvioni (Consorzio per la Tutela as the nonpareil of the sparkling-wine tasting assessments.

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