PREVIEW appreciating sparkling wine, while the says Avellan, admitting that while a lot topic du jour of lightstrike is suitably The authors call it how of people love them, the characters of the § illuminating. Selosse style are “quite the opposite of they see it. Champagne’s The authors call it how they see it. brut nature style, for what I appreciate in fine Champagne.” Champagne’s brut nature style, for Which characters? “Massive instance, emerged when consumers instance, emerged concentration, distinctive oxidation, An authoritative, comprehensive guide to “were influenced by wine snobs who […] when consumers “were dominant flor-yeast characters and thought that Champagnes without any influenced by wine prominent oakiness.” Much the same the ever-growing world of fine fizz dosage must somehow be superior.” applies to David Léclapart: “I would The snobs are put firmly in their place: snobs who thought that love to love them [but] loving these “the result […] would often be better with Champagnes without any requires an extremist palate or a palate a little sugar.” The authors suggest that dosage must be superior” used to ‘natural wines.’” There’s the rub. play a supporting role but doesn’t have before the new Cava legislation the style may better suit a sunnier Acknowledging that oxidative styles Christie’s World to take center stage. A growing global addressed many of the issues. climate such as Franciacorta. In have developed a cult following, the Encyclopedia of thirst for fizz, abetted by a changing Germany, Geisenheim is “the funny farm Roederer, Taittinger, and Veuve Clicquot, authors (a) believe that distinctive Champagne & climate and a serious approach to Truly global of all funny farms when it comes to to the briefest of thumbnail sketches— oxidation marked by oxidative aromas making sparkling wine from quality The degree of inclusivity to be expected creating a multitude of boring grape according to the importance the authors —that is, detectable aromas of Sparkling Wine grapes, has resulted in a reappraisal of from a volume such as this depends on crosses.” On disgorgement-date labeling, attach to the producer. acetaldehyde—is a fault; and (b) clearly (4th Edition) the style. Now that fizz can be enjoyed as the claims for it made by its authors. the authors are clear: It should be Typically, bigger profiles are broken don’t like the styles. an apéritif, an ice-breaker, or with food, The clue is in the title. To live up to its mandatory, as it is in Franciacorta down into three parts: the history and Tom Stevenson and it has become a wine for all occasions. billing, a global encyclopedia should and Clàssic Penedès. Interestingly, the other relevant information, followed Authoritative and comprehensive Essi Avellan MW Into this brave new world, the fourth seek to cover all the bases. As a reference authors say that there is no evidence by an assessment of the house style and Profiles of “other French” sparkling-wine edition of Christie’s World Encyclopedia work, this fourth edition commendably to suggest that the tank method is range, and then star ratings with a brief producers occupy nearly 60 further Published by Bloomsbury Absolute of Champagne & Sparkling Wine has ticks the boxes and can lay justifiable an intrinsically inferior method of lowdown of each wine based on tasting. pages before the start of the country- 800 pages; $270 / £200 arrived with no little avoirdupois. The claim to being both wide-ranging and sparkling-wine production (to the Subjective judgment animates what by-country sections beginning with enterprise began with a first edition in authoritative. The breadth of its scope traditional), citing Wegeler-Deinhard’s might otherwise be monotonous. the British Isles. This sees Nyetimber REVIEWED BY 1998 by Tom Stevenson, whose seminal is its great strength, even if blanket experiments with Bernkasteler Doktor. Occasional boxes on, for instance, at the top, closely followed by Gusbourne, ANTHONY ROSE book on Champagne was first published coverage sometimes means having The meat of the book lies in its “Why is Grand Siècle so special?” add and while it is largely comprehensive, in 1986. As the world of fizz expanded, to scrape the bottom of a mediocre country-by-country producer profiles, oomph. The spotlight on less familiar there is no room for Simpsons or The Stevenson was joined in 2013 for the stainless-steel vat or oak cask. each section of which is preceded by a growers and smaller houses is valuable: Grange. Germany is well covered, with n the world of fine wine, Bordeaux 528-page third edition by Essi Avellan, The book begins with a brief history scene-setting introduction. The 220 Cédric Bouchard, Coessens, Corbon, Raumland’s stock on the up, at 87 from and Burgundy were the first classic a Finnish Master of Wine with an setting the scene in Champagne, taking pages on Champagne (versus 150 in Doyard, Guibor Fils, Lassaigne, Lassalle, 85—still, in my view, too low. Reflecting IFrench wine regions to find insatiable thirst for the bubble. The us to the turn of the 20th century and the 2013 edition) make this, effectively, Margaine, Moussé, Prévost, and Suenen, its status as “perhaps currently the most themselves flattered by imitation, and revised and expanded fourth edition the revolutionary invention, by one a book within a book, with a lengthy to mention just a handful. Almost all dynamic sparkling-wine country,” Italy the Rhône and the Loire were next to runs to 800 pages. In the 2013 edition, Armand Walfart, of disgorgement introduction; new and improved producers have had their scores revised is allocated 82 pages, up from 38, the become the focus for tribute acts Avellan had just a year to realize a à la glace. Introductory chapters explain maps; and more on the revision plans, upward from the earlier edition—some, next-largest chapter after Champagne. worldwide. From a trickle to a torrent, “mission impossible.” Working since the various techniques of the sparkling- environmental issues, and the rise of like Bouchard and Collin, by quite a This is justified by both the volume of reproductions became desirable then on the fastest-expanding category wine process lucidly, with an expanded grower single-vineyard Champagnes. considerable margin. production, even if the bulk of that is originals, and blind tastings showed us in wine has given her the scope to section on assemblage, the construction Producer profiles vary in length and style Which brings us to Selosse. “The Prosecco, and the diversity of its three what we already suspected: that it had research in greater depth and cover of the cuvée, and yeast autolysis. —from four or more pages for Bollinger, style is so challenging for me […] I still major quality regions: Franciacorta, become possible to make great Cabernet, new ground. Recognizing its importance, there’s Dom Pérignon, Krug, Philipponnat, cannot come up with points for it,” Trentino, and Alta Langa. Trentino’s Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and The Encyclopedia remains a joint an important new addition on dosage, Sauvignon Blanc outside France and that venture by two of the world’s leading as well as a note on jetting technology terroir no longer had to be reverentially authorities and most indefatigable at bottling and (geek alert) a lengthy AUTHORS’ ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS CONTENTS Trying to compile a list of all the people who USA, for wines of Sonoma); Dr Guido (ViniPortugal); Mattia Montanari (Opera 2, have helped in the process of making this Bezzo (Consorzio per la Tutela dell’Asti); for Lambrusco di Modena);Eran Pick MW book is a challenge as so many people have Pedro Pina Brito (for wines of Portugal); (for wines of Israel); Markus Pickens (Wine whispered with a French accent. Thanks tasters, but as in the case of the 2013 discourse on corks and closures. contributed in one way or another. First of Jim Budd (wine writer, for the wines of the Marlborough); Innocente Nardi (Consorzio 8 INTRODUCTION all, thank you Jon Croft and Emily North Loire); Dan Buckle (for wines of Australia); Tutela del Vino Conegliano Valdobbiadene 8 How to use this book; 9 Foreword; 10 Author’s Introduction; 11 The Champagne & and the rest of the team at Absolute. It has Ernst Büscher (Deutsches Weininsitut); Prosecco); Giulia Pussini (Consorzio Sparkling Wine World Championships; 13 A Little History; 19 How Sparkling Wines been a pleasure making this book a reality Maria Canuto (Consell Regulador de Tutela del Vino Conegliano Valdobbiadene Are Made; 21 A Step-by-Step Guide to the Traditional Method; 33 The Elusive Quality; together. Also our editor Ruth Arnold has la DOP Cava); Antoine Clasen (for Prosecco); Alexia Putze (VDP. Die 36 Matters of Terroir; 44 Putting on the Style; 51 Bottle Sizes; 54 Storing and Serving; to the long-established preeminence of edition, Avellan is credited as the author, Three detailed sections follow: been a key contributor in the making. wines of Luxembourg); Gloria Collell Prädikatsweingüter); Sanna Pöyry (for 58 The Perfect Champagne Glass; 60 Appreciating Sparkling Wine World Encyclopedia of We are grateful to Dr Andrew Pirie for (Freixenet); Pierre du Couedic (UPECB, wines of Champagne); Tuomas Rahkamaa sharing his groundbreaking world map on France); Antoine Clasen (Crémants of (for wines of Champagne); Amanda SPARKLING WINES OF THE WORLD suitable climates for sparkling winemaking. Luxembourg); Daniel Cousin (Société de Regan (wine writer, for wines of France Champagne, the challenge to its position and she takes responsibility for all the on quality factors, terroir issues, and Also, gratitude is in order for Dr Tony Viticulture du Jura); Steve DiFrancesco including Champagne); Magnus Reuterdahl FRANCE Jordan, who, during the process of writing (Glenora Wine Cellars, New York); Fabio (for wines of Sweden); Stefano Ricagno 63 Champagne this edition and in between the editions, Ferrari (Consorzio Tutela del Lambrusco (for wines of Acqui, Asti & Alta Langa); 283 Other French Sparkling Wines has continuously made himself available di Modena); Pieter Ferreira (Graham Giuseppe Salvioni (Consorzio per la Tutela as the nonpareil of the sparkling-wine tasting assessments. Stevenson points sparkling-wine styles. In a section on for consultation on numerous matters Beck, for Cap Classique Association); del Franciacorta); Arthur Sarkosyan (wines ranging from viticulture and vinification to Marcos Flores Tlalpan (Asociación de of Armenia); Fredrik Schelin (wine writer, EUROPE sparkling winemaking around the world. Sommeliers Mexicanos); Ornella Franco for wines of Sweden); Christian Schiller 341 The British Isles Any technical errors are entirely of our own (Consorzio per la Tutela dell’Asti); David (wine writer, for wines of Madagascar); 369 Germany world has taken a little longer—but out, “We have a very similar palate and a the evolution of regional average yields, making, not Tony’s! Furer (wine writer, on behalf of Wines of Armando Serena (Consorzio Vini Asolo 401 Italy The Champagne and Sparkling Wine Uruguay); Marta Galiazzo (Consorzio per Montello); Claire Sertznig (Luxembourg 483 Portugal World Championships, where Tony also la Tutela del Franciacorta); Denis Gastin Wine Promotion); Sabrina Schench (Istituto 493 Spain judges, have been a great source of material (for wines of Asia); Caroline Gilby MW Trento Doc); Michèle Shah (for wines of 533 The Rest of Europe materialize it has. very similar notion about quality,” so the the authors bring any climate-change for this book. Thank you to the entire (wine writer, for wines of Eastern Europe); Italy); Yaara Shimony (The Israel Export CSWWC team; Bryony Wright, Rachel Robert Giorgione (for wines of New and International Cooperation Institute); AFRICA Davey, Eva Callaghan, Tony Jordan, György Zealand); Robert Gorjak (Belvin Wine Magandeep Singh (Wi-Not, India); 569 South Africa Márkus, Simon Stockton and Dr Orsi School, Slovenia); Irene Graziotto (for Stephen Skelton MW (consultant, for wines 592 The Rest of Africa Szentkiralyi as well as Karl Franz and his Consorzio Vini Asolo Montello); Jeff Grier of England); Chris Smales (for wines of Sparkling wines from elsewhere team at Sensible Wine Services. Additionally, (Villiera, for Cap Classique Association); Australia); José Pedro Soares (Comissão book is for the most part a seamless joint deniers updated regional averages for NORTH AMERICA we wish to thank Orsi Szentkiralyi for her Sílvia Grimaldo Martinez (Consell Vitivinícola da Bairrada); Olivier Sohler 595 Canada valuable time and effort in researching Regulador de la DOP Cava); Monika (Syndicat des Producteurs de Crémant 603 Mexico sparkling wines of France as well as grape Halen (German Wine Institute); Terry d’Alsace); Emeline Spor (Vins de Bugey); 605 United States used to be regarded as little more than enterprise. Where sections on reserve a rise in natural alcohol levels from 9.6% varieties of the world for this book. Hall (Napa Valley Vintners); Luiza Hamdi Chris Taylor (for wines of Champagne); Dozens of people around the world (Syndicat des Élaborateurs de Crémant de Liz Thach MW (Sonoma State University); SOUTH AMERICA have contributed to making this book Bordeaux); Gladys Horiuchi (California Renata Toninato (Consorzio Tutela 641 Argentina happen. We are most grateful for the input Wine Institute); Alain Jarry (Syndicat del Vino Conegliano Valdobbiadene 652 Brazil of Barbara Arbeithuber (Austrian Wine Viticole des AOC Bordeaux & Bordeaux Prosecco); María del Mar Torres (Institut third-rate country cousins attempting, wines, pressing, autolysis, the magnum ABV for 1970–99, to 10.1% for 2010–17 654 Chile Marketing Board); Beatrice Archetti Supérieur); Hinke de Jonge (for wines of del Cava); Julia Trustram Eve (English Wine (Consorzio per la Tutela del Franciacorta); the Netherlands); Dr Belinda Kemp (for Producers); Nicolas Weber (INAO, France); 658 Peru Ermi Bagni (Consorzio Tutela del wines of Canada); Willi Klinger (Austrian John Worontschak (winemaker, for wines 658 Uruguay at best, to reproduce Champagne itself. effect, lightstrike, and the glossary have and a corresponding drop in acidity from Lambrusco di Modena); Ulrike Bahm Wine Marketing Board); Anne Krebiehl of Russia and Moldova); Martin von Wyss (German Wine Institute); Nick Baker MW (for wines of Germany); Konstantinos (vW Maps); Maurizio Zanella (for wines ANTIPODES (for wines of Champagne); Silvia Baratta Lazarakis MW (Wine & Spirits Professional of Franciacorta); Natalia Zhavoronkova 661 Australia (Gheusis, formerly for wines of Prosecco Centre, Greece); Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon (Union of Winegrowers and Winemakers of 697 New Zealand Today’s producers of sparkling wines been imported and expanded from 13.4g/l to 12.3g/l. Maps for GST (Growing Superiores of Conegliano Valdobbiadene (Louis Roederer, for wines of Champagne); Russia) and Cathy van Zyl MW (for wines and Asolo as well as wines of Asti); Gurjit Thibaut Le Mailloiux (CIVC, France); of South Africa). ASIA Singh Barry (Wi-Not, India); Brigitte György Márkus (wine writer, for wines Our final and warmest thanks go to our 711 China Batonnet (CIVC, France); Giulio Bava of Hungary); Léna Martin (Conseil partners, Pat for Tom and Frey for Essi, 713 India (Consorzio Alta Langa); Franck Berkulès Interprofessionnel des Vins d’Alsace); Lei for their continuous and heartfelt support 715 Indonesia have shed the cultural cringe to become previously published work by Stevenson, Season Temperature) zones are usefully (Vins de Savoie); Maja Berthas (Wines Meng (for wines of China); Luc Meyermans during the time-consuming travel, research 715 Japan of South Africa); Eva Bertran (Freixenet (for wines of Belgium); Anna Ollson and writing process. 715 Thailand

716 SPARKLING GRAPE VARIETIES confident exponents of the style. Where the two voices are distinct. A rant such enlarged over three pages (up from TOM STEVENSON ESSI AVELLAN MW AUTHOR AUTHOR 730 MICROPEDIA Tom Stevenson has long been Essi Avellan MW is one of the world’s most regarded as the world’s leading talented young wine writers, and only the 772 INDEX once sparkling wine was regarded as a as the withering demolition of the two). There is coverage of bottle sizes, authority on Champagne and second Scandinavian to gain the Master sparkling wine and is one of of Wine qualification. Recognised as a the world’s leading and most Champagne and sparkling wine specialist, respected wine writers. she is the organiser of the annual Grand wine of celebration, today it comes in a Cava DO has Stevenson’s stamp all over including “the magnum effect,” the Champagne Helsinki event. range of styles in which celebration may it, although in fairness, it was written right glass, storing and serving, and

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One set of scores rates producers out of 100, with an additional value bonus where appropriate. The second rates wines from one to three stars, with half stars in between. “The aim is not to be critical,” says Avellan, “but to separate the best from the rest.” It may be unusual in an encyclopedia, but it has the benefit of adding to the authority of the producer profiles. To stay up to date, the authors rate not specific iterations of wines but rather follow brands within the range to see how they develop on a year-by-year basis. A substantial number of profiled producers are not given a rating because ownership or winemaker have changed or the producer is new to the market with no track record. I find a number of ratings on the mean side—for example,

8 INTRODUCTION Foreword 9 Jacquesson and AR Lenoble get only an HOW TO USE THIS BOOK FOREWORD 88, and Pierre Péters 89, behind Moët & Following the introductory section, the encyclopedia is arranged in a country-by-country format. How quickly the sparkling wine scene has changed. It is hard to imagine, but according to André Within each country there are two basic types of text: general introduction, and producer profiles Simon, 60% of the Champagnes shipped were extremely sweet as recently as 60 years ago, with at Chandon’s 90. listed in alphabetical order. Also, each country’s successful wines at the Champagne and Sparkling least 50 grams of sugar, and half of those had as much as 100 grams! It was only in the 1960s that Wine World Championships (CSWWC, p.11) 2014–2018 will be presented at the beginning of the the brut style started to assert itself. When it came to fine-quality sparkling wine, there was only section. To locate a particular country, consult the contents. To find a specific producer: (1) If you Champagne. Other sparkling wines existed, of course, but the choice was invariably between clean or The authors’ stylistic preferences and know the country in question, turn to that chapter and locate it by its alphabetical listing, or (2) if you not clean and the clean fizz was just that, clean fizz, with no complexity, no finesse and rarely even an know the name of the producer, but are not sure of the country, refer to the index. appropriate structure. This was still the situation 40 years ago. anathema to quirkiness might in part PRODUCER PROFILES 1 2 brand when it is different from the trading Champagne was recognised not simply as a classic wine, progress of sparkling wine globally, then this even larger, 1 GLOBAL RANKING name under which it is listed. but as the only classic sparkling wine in existence and more expanded fourth edition will be a real eye-opener. A personalised percentile-based ranking 89 VALUE 8 PRODUCTION OR SALES one of the greatest wines in the world. Yet, unbelievably, With each edition becoming progressively larger and that applies globally, thus a producer scoring 3 AYALA It is a moot point whether a winery’s annual there were no Champagne specialists to be found. The more complex, I am grateful to Essi for agreeing to be 80 points anywhere in the world is the 4 AŸ-CHAMPAGNE, VALLÉE DE production is the same as its sales, although UK was and always has been Champagne’s best market by co-author. Since 2013 she has also joined me as one of explain why, apart from en passant in the equivalent in quality (though different LA MARNE in the case of a mature venture it often is. miles (less so now, with the ascendance of the USA) and the three permanent judges for the Champagne & stylistically) to a Champagne producer 5 www.champagne-ayala.fr This figure relates to a producer’s sparkling yet when I questioned famous MWs who had attended Sparkling Wine World Championships, which adds scoring 80 points. 6 • Group ownership: Société Jacques wines only. the Champagne Academy, they struggled to name a even more practical tasting experience of the world’s N/A Where no ranking has been given, (a) Bollinger 9 COMMERCIAL STATUS dozen Champagne producers beyond the one they finest sparkling wines to our repertoire. section of the méthode ancestrale and because ownership or the winemaker of the 7 • Other label: Montebello Champagne only: in most cases this indicates represented, they had no idea about cooperative brands So where there was once just Champagne and no property has recently changed, (b) where 8 • 700,000 bottles whether the producer is a house (négociant- or grower Champagnes, and knew barely the basics of specialists, there is now an evolving Champagne, the author has insufficient experience of 9 • Négociant-Manipulant manipulant), grower (récoltant-manipulant), production. Their knowledge of the chemistry involved with other sparkling wines on the rise, and more fizz the wines or (c) where the producer is new 10 Only a few years ago Ayala was a or cooperative (coopérative-manipulant). (For was zero. That is why, in 1980, I embarked on a six-year specialists than you can shake a magnum at, but these glossary, pét nat barely registers on the to the market and therefore has no existing Champagne brand on its way to details of other possibilities, see ‘Types of project to research and write Champagne (Sotheby’s changes are in many ways less important than the track record in terms of overall quality over oblivion. After its neighbour Bollinger producer’, p.69) Publications, 1986), which profiled almost 100 houses, changes in perception by consumers. a number of years. purchased it in 2005, the brand got 10 BACKGROUND INFORMATION 30 cooperatives and more than 300 growers, examining Forty years ago when only Champagne could claim 40 If they are clean, the character of the wines a new lease of life. Despite their A thumbnail sketch of relevant details. for the very first time topics such as a future expansion, to be a world-class sparkling wine, other fizz acquired radar, despite, or perhaps because of, its must be dire. geographical closeness the two houses 11 WINEMAKER the sur-lattes scandal and the boues de ville. such a bad reputation that the term ‘sparkling wine’ 50 Clean, but boring. could not be more different in style. The person with overall responsibility for In the 1990s I was heartened to see a couple of others became synonymous with ‘poor quality’ and producers 60 Probably some potential, but usually cool 11 WINEMAKER Caroline Latrive making the wines. begin to specialise in Champagne and by the mid- felt obliged either to concoct alternative names like Cava fermentation has produced an amylic 12 HOUSE STYLE & RANGE 12 HOUSE STYLE & RANGE 1990s I began to look at other sparkling wines as well. or Cap Classique or rip-off the name Champagne. Since current trendiness. Prosecco’s parallel style in which individual character is lost. Ayala’s non-vintage Majeur is elegant A general description of the house style; Things were slowly improving. When the first edition then, of course, the quality of sparkling wine outside of 70 Frankly, this is as good as it gets in some areas. and fresh. Its rosé version is pleasantly this often includes specific descriptions of of Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Champagne has soared and new generations have become 75 The point at which any sparkling wine other approachable, light and energetic. individual cuvées. Wine was published in 1998, it was a massive task to so accustomed to excellent quality that they cannot than Champagne starts to become interesting. Ayala has built a good name for its 13 STAR RATING taste fizz from every country in the world, just to find understand why the term ‘sparkling wine’ should be 80 Any sparkling wine other than Champagne brut nature, which used to be known These ratings are not global, but apply to the handful of truly world-class products that existed regarded any differently than ‘red wine’ or ‘white wine’. col fondo method (known since 2019 as that receives this score is not just interesting, as Zéro Dosage. It is indeed a pure, wines that stand out within their own class, outside of Champagne. By 2013, however, this book was Those relatively young generations no longer define but one that is good enough to grace the zesty Champagne that does not fail to style or origin. on its third edition and the world of bubbles had changed sparkling wine as merely a wine of celebration; a wine table of a self-confessed Champagne addict. awaken an appetite. b Wines that are well above average quality. beyond all recognition. With world-class sparkling to pop the cork, have a toast and quickly move on to 85 Because Champagne has such intrinsic 13 b Brut Majeur 14 c Extraordinarily exceptional. wines popping up all over the place, the work involved something more serious. Today’s consumers regard sui lieviti) of fermenting on the yeast lees advantages over sparkling wines produced 15 Not vintaged, traditional method: 40% d Near perfect vintage to vintage. had increased dramatically, but at least the task of tasting sparkling wine itself as a serious wine. They see it as a in less favourable terroirs, this is the level at Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% a Half-stars indicate intermediate ratings. beyond the boundaries of Champagne had become far fine wine in its own right, deserving its place at the table which an inexpensive BOB or secondary Meunier 14 NAME OF INDIVIDUAL WINE more rewarding. The number of Champagne and/or and requiring as much consideration, analysis, argument brand becomes interesting. 15 CUVÉE DETAILS sparkling-wine specialists had increased, so I asked the and different opinions as any other great wine. I hope is mentioned, however, with a good press 90 The sort of quality that Champagne has to Whether vintaged or not, method of best of these, my dear friend and colleague, Essi Avellan they enjoy this, the fourth edition of Christie’s World be to warrant inclusion in my cellar. If a non- 2 VALUE production, grape varieties and other MW, to trudge around the world researching a massively Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine, as much as Champagne sparkling-wine producer scores Awarded to producers whose best wines relevant information. Where it is stated revised Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Essi and I enjoyed making it. this high, it is of exceptional quality indeed. generally stand out within their category. ‘varieties not known’, these details are either Sparkling Wine (from 352 to 528 pages). for the style from Malibran and Casa Serious-quality Champagne or top-quality Value may exist at 50 pounds, euro or uncertain or have not been forthcoming. In fact, Essi is the most naturally gifted Champagne Tom Stevenson sparkling-wine producer whose products dollars, just as it does at five pounds, euro or ‘Bottle-fermented’ is used where it has taster I have seen. We also have a very similar palate and 2019 have every right to demand a significant dollars, although the depth of your pocket not been possible to discern whether a wine a very similar notion about quality. I would imagine premium over the rest of the market. Be will decide whether you can afford the value has been made by the traditional method that we share an immediate appreciation for perhaps Paolin. But if you’re looking for pét nat prepared to give these wines additional found at the top end of the market. or transfer method. Every possible care 90% of all the Champagnes and sparkling wines we cellarage to reveal their true potential. 3 TRADING NAME has been taken to ensure the accuracy of taste together. Neither of us has an ego problem. We 95 The greatest Champagne producers of all; 4 LOCATION this information, but we can pass on only respect each other’s experience too much; consequently their wines will often require at least ten 5 WEBSITE what the producers have told us and there we are both willing to look objectively at the 10% we years’ cellarage. 6 GROUP OWNERSHIP have been many occasions when it has been disagree about and we are prepared to change our minds. exponents from Australia, such as 98 The highest producer rating in this book Either the parent company that owns the difficult to unravel the ambiguities of the However, despite these shared values, Essi has her own is given to only one house, Krug, whose winery or, if it is the parent company, any details provided by producers. It should also opinions and I have told her to stick to her guns, even attention to detail, quality throughout the other operations belonging to it. be noted that varietal proportions are likely when they diametrically oppose my own. range, as well as depth and ageing capacity of 7 OTHER LABELS to vary from vintage to vintage and over If the third edition revealed the changes in Ravensworth, Jauma, or BK Wines, you the wines, was unmatched by anybody else. Primarily secondary brands, although in time. Champagne (from climate to growers and single- 100 Perfection – impossible! some instances this will include a primary vineyard cuvées) and the extraordinary growth and will have to wait for the next edition. Introducing each region with Ferrari (which is up from 86 to 91) and which is the same score, incidentally, the results from Stevenson’s own Franciacorta’s Ca’ del Bosco, up just one as Nyetimber. Champagne and Sparkling Wine World point, are the highest-rated producers. A section on the rest of Europe Championships, where Avellan is also Perhaps because Piemonte is a segues into the New World of South one of the fixed panel, fits the narrative, relative latecomer to the party with the Africa (with Graham Beck and Klein but even the latest results, for 2014–18, Alta Langa Consorzio established only in Constantia equal top), followed by are already two years old. I would prefer 2001, the producers of Alta Langa are not Canada, the United States (Roederer to see the awards in an appendix at as fully represented as those of Trentino Estate is number one here), and South the end of the book. The images are and Franciacorta, so Deltetto, Ettore America. Given that serious quality an improvement on the third edition, Germano, Ghione Anna, Il Cascinone, fizz is still thin on the ground in many but there’s a disconnect between Marcalberto, Roberto Garbarino, and countries, the authors deserve a pat on Champagne, for which Michael Boudot Vite Colte don’t warrant a look-in. the back for putting their noses on the is commissioned, and other generic There is no room at the inn either for line in the face of a substantial amount vineyard and barrel pics or PR photos Cesarini Sforza in Trentino, Paltrinieri of mediocrity. Eventually, heading to of a strategically placed bottle in a scene in Lambrusco, or Collalto, Mongarda, or Australia and New Zealand brings us of improbable family togetherness. Valdellovo in Prosecco. Forty pages are back to top sparkling form with seriously With a book at an RRP of £200, devoted to Spain, where the complexities good kit from the likes of Arras, which, hopefully the publishers will celebrate of style and progress made by an with California’s Roederer Estate, the opportunity to accompany the full increased focus on terroir through the deservedly earns the highest ranking text of the next edition with expressive Corpinnat and Clàssic Penedès groups (92) outside Champagne. photos and commission images that and Cava de Paraje are explained well. The dual rating system follows the such an authoritative and comprehensive Gramona is top dog, moving up to 90, same formula as the previous edition. work deserves throughout.

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