162 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, 1948-49.

XI.

QUARR ABBEYO YT ANCIENN A : T FIFE ROUTE . FYFR y EB . SMITH, F.S.A.ScoT., AND THE LATE REV. NORMAN M. JOHNSON, B.Sc., F.R.S.E., F.S.A.ScoT.

In the Chartulary of the Abbey of Balmerino,1 which was founded in 1227, four interesting charters are to be found,2 dealing with certain grants of quarrying rights, rights-of-way, and other matters ancillary to the supply of stones for the construction of parts of the Abbey and its surrounding buildings. None of these particular charters bears a date, and it is only by indirect evidence that one can estimate the approximate period of these documents. A careful study of various other (dated) charters where the same principals or witnesses appeae concerneb o t r d suggests tha e wholth t e series were executed some time over a range of years between 1227 and 1250. Much helpful information in this direction has been obtained from the publications Scottise oth f h History Society, particularly those editer EassonD y db . What is most probably the first of the four shows that the Cistercian monks of Balmerino received from one Hugo of Nydie (a piece of land near Strathkinness, Fife s "wholgrana )hi f o t e quarr f Nydie.yo monke Th " s were entitle "breao dt carrd kan y away stones t frotheia t mi r pleasure." Nor was this all: they had the free use of a road through Hugo's land leading to a ford across the River -Eden at Bruckly, "a toft in the town of Nydie " 3 and pasture rights for 24 oxen. There was also an auxiliary grant of pasture rights, fro mneighbourina gnorte lairdth n hEdene o , sidth f ecaso n a ,i f eo delay at the ford at Bruckly. The Eden is, at this point, tidal, so that delays coul e frequentb d lateA . r lair f Nydio d e granted further land and also "grass for two cows, one horse and sixty sheep on the common pasture of Nydie." It is interesting to note that this particular charter was witnessed by, inter alias, a neighbour of the monks, John de Haya, the laird of Naughton, in Balmerino parish. A geological examination of some of the stones in the Abbey ruins shows calciferoue theb mo t s sandston identicaf eo l structure wit calciferoue hth s sandstone found in'Nydie quarr severad yan l other near-by quarriess i t I . interesting to note that; no examples of this type of stone are known to be found anywhere within twelve e Abbeymileth f o s , except e soutth f o h

1 Balmerino Abbey,s it d Jamey b an s Campbell; Pre-Reformation Churches Fifeshire,n i . BJ .y b Hackle. 2 The Chartulary of the Abbeys of Balmerino and Lindores, Abbotsford Club, 1841. 3 A "toft" is a messuage, otherwise a dwelling and offices, together with the adjoining lands appro- priate to the household, with a right to common pasture in some cases. QUARR ABBEYO YT ANCIENN A : T FIFE ROUTE. 163

Rive othee r th Eden n r O han. d ther thought lease othea o ear e tw tb ro t types of stone represented in the ruined Abbey, one of which is of an Old Red Sandstone type. This rather suggests that there migh scope b tr efo some interesting research into the type and source of the various building stone svarioue useth t da s period constructionf so . Starting from the facts mentioned above, and considering also various other fragments of evidence, both visual and written, and taking topo-

SE.A LEVEL _...... _....._._..__..._.._...._. ..JT--_~~**^*~_.--_-O

5MILES

Fig. 1. Line of old road from Quarry to BaJmerino Abbey. [Errata: in Section, line should rise at Ardlogie to 406'; in Plan, Ardlogie House should be above the line.]

graphical details into account, it has been found possible to trace out the major part of this very early route, which undoubtedly would be used not onlquarra s ya y highwaroade t alsth s bu ,oa y betwee e Abbee th n th d yan cathedral town of St Andrews, until such time as the bridges over the Eden were built—that at Guardbridge in 1419, and that at Dairsie some time between 1522 and 1539. It is just possible, however, that there may have bee r nea o Dairsie nfora t th ra d e Bridge sit ebuildine prioth e o th t r f go bridge. Even after the construction of these bridges the old road continued uselengths n parr i highwait e f fo ,th o t s a , y between Balmerin r Grauldroo y handsoute e Cupath south-wesd d on hd an an ,e o othere nan rth th n o ;t te o thui s nsomus facn swa i et i t extent unti beginnine lth nineteente th f go h century e road th paro f N ,o t. however , apparently achieve e honoudth r of being designated a turnpike road, and no doubt that is why so little of the route survives to-day as a road in current use for modern traffic. 164 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, 1948-49.

The descriptio e routeth f no , which follows, e Balmerinstartth t a s o proceedsend dan , generally speaking south-easterla n i , y direction towards e Quarrth y (fig. 1). The exact point from which it left the Abbey precincts is not known for certain t wouli t bu d, most likely start nea Abbee th r y Bar r Granaryno , just Abbee nortth f ho y t wouli itself d milan d , ol crose l e ladth sth o et south of the Monk's Well (which still exists). The first point where we have positive identificatio whers ni t eenteri e rougsth h vegetatio e smalth f nlo wood (no t down)wcu , abou fee0 e 50 tAbbey—Nationat th eas f o t l Grid Reference 37/360247—from which point"it follow e smalth s l burn that flows from Bottomcraig, crossin Kirktogthe n Loa 363247nat , proceeding eastwards until it passes close by the cottage, once the Bottomcraig School, t roae 366247a th dt neaA . r thi sboundard poinol n a t y wal verf o l y large stones still exists, and out of this grows a fine old gean or wild cherry tree. Again to the east the road can be followed until it reaches 372246, a point just wes Naughtof o t n Home Farm. From her t swunei g throug Pare h th Naughton,f ko exace 1th t line being unknown, unti t reachei l presene dth t Wormit—Balmerino roa t approxida - mately 374245, leaving this line almost immediately to proceed roughly south, up the "Naughton Brae" (PL XXXII, 1) towards Gauldry, following 2 the present somewhat rough track which can still be used for cart traffic. The main road running east-west through Gauldry, and formerly known as "e Ferrygait,th reaches "i crossed dan nex e t 377238dth a tr furlonFo . e gth roahavy f severadma o e e followeon l alternativy an d r o e e routeson a vi , e "bacotheth f o rk roads nexvillagee e w th t d n definitel"p i pic u an , t ki y t 380237a , nea e paristh r h boundary. Adjacen thio t t s poin a hous s i t e once innn t finusegrass-growa A bu s e. d a n straight stretcseew nno s hi to run south-east, on the west side of Dandie's Wood. Here the road is of very considerabl etreesd widthol d , mainlan , y beech eacn o , h side form fina e avenu halr efo milfa t leasea t (PI. XXXII, 2). Shortly afterwardst a , 387227, after emerging fro treee mth t passesi typicaa fooe f sth o t l small Fifeshire den, known as Gowl's Den. At this point the track, as it now

becomes, turns south-wes Kilmanyo t t thimora s bu ,si e moder3 n partr ou ; road, now only a footpath, follows the Pitedie Burn to the St Fort—Kilmany road at 393223. From this point, having crosse highwaye dth routr ou , e forms para f o t road in current use, being the road climbing south-east towards Logie village, and known as the Brighouse Brae (it runs through the lands of the

1 Naughton—formerly Ardnechtan—the site of an old castle, meaning Nechtan's Height, possibly named after a Pictish king or chief. 2 Gauldry—formerly Gallery or Galluran—from Old Norse "galder"—a windy place. 3 Gowl's Den—"Gowl" is a word used to denote a small gash or ravine (cf. Windy Gowl in the Pentlands). QUARRY TO ABBEY: AN ANCIENT FIFE ROUTE. 165

small estate of Brighouse). As it crosses the Motray Water at 395220, an older and smaller bridge can be seen underneath the modern concrete almoss i bridge t i t t certaibu , n tha streae th toriginalls mwa y forde t thida s point. From here, at about 60 feet above sea-level at the Motray, the road rise somo t sfee 0 approximateln i te40 mile t 409210)yon e(a . Then, just beyond Ardlogie House, our route leaves the highway again, carrying almost straigh , whil on presente eth t highway swings west towards Logie village.1 From this point it degenerates into little more than a cart-track, heading roughly south-eas almosr fo t t hal milea f 412204o t , , wher eroaa sortf do s goe east-north-easf sof Cuplahillo t s Farmrouter Ou ., however, continues on the same line as before, but it shortly becomes almost impassable even foa pedestrianr , e profusowinth o t ge growt f vegetationo hd ol e Th . boundary dykes, however, remain in fairly good condition, and many trees mark the sites of former hedges. After just about a furlong of this "jungle " vera y interesting poin reaches i t t 414201da poina , t immediately easf o t e sit Airdif th eo t Castle roae Th d . forked here straight-oe th , n part ulti- mately leadin Dairsio gt e Bridge and/or Cupar, wherea r roasou d branched almost east towards Hayston stilFarm n roughle ca lb t i ; y trace t certaida n times of the year even over cultivated ground. The exact line through or past Hayston Farm has not been definitely traced, but it apparently reached and crosse maie dth n present Newport-Cupar roa t 425199da , approximately half-way between the fourth and fifth milestone out of Cupar. From this poin r formroaw ou n existintno d a s g farm road, running almost eas jusr tfo furlona t therebr go Moonzio yt e Mill t 429198a . Here

t swingi s sharply sout shora r hfo t distanc Milld t passei ordeol n s i e,a e sth r 2 to ford the Moonzie Burn, a small stream which, rising in the parish of Moonzie, eventually falls into the Motray near its mouth. It is of interest to note that this ford is still in use for farm traffic. From the ford, which t i429197a s e roath , d again turns south-eas d continuean t a farm s a s - track, passing between the now derelict Williamstead Farm and the Farm of Seggiehill in a straight line until it crosses the railway line between Cupar d Leucharan s Junctio t 434191na a poin, t about If miles south-wesf o t Leuchars Junction. From this point, as it passes through the lands of t definitel Bruckly,road no ol s di e th e ylin s nex f i th 3knowneo t i t t bu , identified where it is marked by an old boundary hedge and dyke as it approaches the site of the ford over the Eden. This line of the road commence t 440185s a t runi d s an south-south-eas, abour fee0 fo t t40 t until t reachei e nortth s he ford—ae Ede th banth t f na ko t 441184—a point two-third a mil f o se south-wesRoad Ol de centre Bridgth th f f o eo t t ea

1 Logie—a name meanin hollow,e th t verd g"a " an y appropriat thin ei s case. 2 Moonzi consideres ei derivee b o dt d fro e Gaelimth c "monie," meanin gboga . Bruckly may be the same name as Brockley, which, according to Macbean, means " the badgers' haunt3 " ("Ancient Fife: Seen throug Place-names,e hth " Scot. Geog. Mag., Jan. 1903). 166 PROCEEDING E SOCIETYTH F O S , 1948-49.

Guardbridge and 1900 feet south-east of the mansion house at Bruckly Farm (PI. XXXII. 3) , The present width of the river between banks is about 100 feet at the ford, but at low tide the breadth of the water is not much more than half of s interestini this t I . o notgt e thae riveth t rfordee b use o t dd several fara y myearb o cartpoina sag t a , t about hal mila f e upstream, where eth approache actualle sar y much steeper. Having crosse forde line dth th e, again become littla s e vaguet i t bu , most probably followe lan e natura e swinginth y ddth f b o e lli g round roughly south-west, unti t reacheli fare dNydith f m o e Mains t 439175a , . From this poin t wouli t d only hav southerla en i som yardo 0 g e70 yo st directioo nt reac s destinatiohit t Nydina e Quarry t probablI . y followe e linf th do e the present farm road for most of the way in this area. The continuation of the road from the entrance to the Quarry (at 440168) for a mere 350 e "King'th yardo t sn o sHighwa t bring t Andrews,ou S t i ss o i yt t i s a " latee th describef r o grant e Abbeye on lanf th so n d i o d t . Until about 1800 this road was the main route between St Andrews and Cupar, going through Strathkinnes passind soute san th Nydief ho go t , then crossin Edee gth t na Dairsie Bridge. Many famous king d commoneran s s have passed this fine w dway d numerouan , s reference traven i historit d i an lo st c literature. extremels i t I yroad doubtfu ol surface d par e y th remain f th an o t f f eo i l s in its original condition—those traceable parts which are not incorporated into modern road trackr so wele sar l overgrown with tur other fo r vegetation. Without expert excavatio impossibls i t ni t thiea swha y stagsa to et typ f eo surfac r bottomino e e makin e s originath use th n gwa i df o g l roadn I . passing, however, it should be noted that in some parts of the route the road appear havo st e been surprisingly wide. It has been suggested to the writers that a type of sled may have been used, but it would have been impossible to ford the River Eden "with such a vehicle. It is apparent from the actual Latin words used in the charters that wheeled vehicles were referred to by those who drew them up. The total length of the road to the Abbey from the Quarry was approxi- mately eight miles. Startin gQuarrye frofeeth 0 t ma t26 t soo i , n descended to sea-level to cross the ford over the Eden; then rising gently to 75 feet it agai fee 0 ncroso 5 t t fele Moonzi o t th sl e Burn; thereafte lona r g steady e highesclimth o bt t point touched—406 feet—near Ardlogie House, from where it descended steadily for about a mile to cross the Motray Water at a 55-foot level. Thereafter it climbs, including one rather short steep section, to 346 feet at Gauldry, whence it descends, rather steeply at first, then more gradually, until it reaches the Abbey. One cannot help feeling e unfortunatsorrth r yfo e ecclesiastical oxensteepese Th ! t gradient was, fortunately, on the outward journey to the Quarry, and was on that part roae roae oth f th dLogi o d t s whic a e e stilfros us h i northe n li m th , ands a ,

ROMAN FORT T CARRIDEA S BROWNHARD NAN T LAW7 16 .

mattea factf r o strengt e , th thi y str evef hhilo modern e nth lca n motor-car. In conclusion, it should be stated that about three-quarters of this ancient rout stiln traversee eca b l moder a foo n dy o b t n pilgrim. NOTE.—The modern spelling has been used for all place-names, and the reference figures are those for the National Grid, Sheet No. 37. The whole of the route comes within Sheet No. 64 (Dundee and St Andrews) of the 1-inch Ordnance Survey Series for Scotland.