Birding the Manu Biosphere Reserve, Peru Birding the Manu Biosphere Reserve, Peru Barry Walker
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>> BIRDING SITES BIRDING THE MANU BIOSPHERE RESERVE, PERU Birding the Manu Biosphere Reserve, Peru Barry Walker Manu has always been close to the Neotropical Bird Club’s heart, forming the destination for our first-ever Club tour in 1997. More than a decade on, who better to help us explore the ‘new’ Manu than the leader of that seminal trip who had already been birding Manu for 15 years—and who will also co-lead the Club’s forthcoming tour to Guyana? eru stands at the top of many an international birder’s agenda. Complex patterns of biogeography and topography have blessed the country with some of the Pworld’s greatest avian diversity and density. Approximately 1,700–1,750 bird species are known to occur in Peru; 45% of all Neotropical birds and 18% of the world’s avifauna! Only Colombia and Brazil have (slightly) greater avian diversity. Many species new to science have been discovered recently in Peru (including from the Manu region upon which I focus this article), some of which await formal description. Moreover, unlike some other top‑ranking Neotropical birding destinations, Peru retains extensive tracts of little‑disturbed habitat. Throw into the mix Peru’s rich history and culture, and the country becomes unmissable. Little wonder that virtually all well‑known bird tour companies have Peru on their menu of birding holidays. Golden-headed Quetzal Pharomachrus auriceps is one of the star attractions of manu’s mid- altitude cloud forests (Roger Ahlman; www.pbase.com/ahlman) neotropical birding 5 49 >> BIRDING SITES BIRDING THE MANU BIOSPHERE RESERVE, PERU Manu Biosphere Reserve Tapir Tapirus terrestris and other mammals by night at clay‑licks, bump into a Giant Otter Nowhere is this amazing diversity more evident Pteronura brasilensis family on an oxbow lake, and than in the tropical and temperate forests and frequently see Jaguar Panthera onca along rivers. associated habitats of the Reserva Biosfera de But it is the avian richness that tends to Manu (hereafter called Manu Biosphere Reserve, enthrall most visitors to Manu. The total of the name by which most birders know it) in 1,020 species so far recorded is not only higher south‑east Peru. A UNESCO World Heritage than that of any other protected area worldwide Site of nearly 1.9 million ha, comprised of the but also eclipses that of many entire countries Manu National Park, associated multiple‑use (even favoured birding destinations such as zones and native community lands. Manu lies Costa Rica). Moreover, two‑thirds of the reserve on the east slope of the Andes and protects remain unexplored; many additional bird species almost the entire watershed of the río Manu and, remarkably, uncontacted indigenous tribes and most tributaries of the río Alto Madre de are likely to inhabit these remote areas. Díos. The reserve encompasses a vast range of altitudinal zones and habitat types, peaking at more than 4,000 m in the chilly high Andes, and Visiting Manu descending to hot, humid lowland Amazonian Some 5,000 visitors make the trip to Manu each forests at 350 m. Up to ten types of lowland year, roughly 5% being dedicated birders. On a forest have been identified in this part of the typical 2–3 week trip covering all altitudes, birders south‑west Amazon, and these can be further accompanied by experienced leaders regularly subdivided into many distinctive microhabitats. record 550–650 species. There is something for This biological wealth is also evident at the everyone at Manu. Some birders start early, finish species level. Some 300 species of tree are often late and ‘bird until they drop’. Others come for a crammed into a single hectare of lowland forest. relaxed birding holiday, staying at comfortable More than 1,300 butterfly species have been lodges, visiting macaw licks (called collpas), recorded in one area of Manu (Pakitza). During a paddling on oxbow lakes and passing a leisurely typical tour, wildlife‑watchers encounter at least morning atop one of the many canopy towers. eight species of primate, enjoy South American As access is restricted, almost all visitors come on a tour: only authorised operators can take visitors into Manu National Park and all must be accompanied by an official guide. Granted, almost all Manu bird specialities and much other wildlife can be seen in adjacent areas, but even these are remote, so access is really only feasible as part of a tour or if you are sponsored by a lodge or NGO working in the area. Highlights of a typical tour A typical Manu trip starts from Cusco at 3,300 m, crosses the last Andean mountain range, drops down the east slope of the Andes into the lowland Amazon forests, and returns by air from the frontier town of Puerto Maldonado to Lima or Cusco. Cusco is a major hub for exploring Inca culture, most famously at the ruins of Machu Picchu, and for adventure sports (so there is plenty to interest a non‑birding spouse!). On the first day of a trip, birders usually visit the wetlands of Huacarpay, 30 minutes drive from Cusco, the ancient Inca capital of Peru, where Andean waterfowl and marshbirds abound. Here the beautiful Bearded Mountaineer Map of Manu Biosphere Reserve, showing location of Oreonympha nobilis, a restricted‑range species lodges mentioned in the article endemic to southern Peru, can be seen feeding 50 neotropical birding 5 on tree tobacco. (For a taster of this splendid Mid‑altitude cloud forests are under pressure hummingbird, see Joe Tobias’s photospot in in much of South America, being replaced by tea, Neotropical Birding 2: 83–85.) The endemic Rusty‑ coffee and coca plantations. In Manu, however, fronted Canastero Asthenes ottoni is also here. cloud forests remain intact and birds abound. The route then proceeds to the humid Birding can be fantastic as large foraging flocks eastern Andean slopes where the grasslands containing several dozen species move through, at Ajcanacu pass at 3,500 m hold high‑altitude some sally‑gleaning or probing crevices, others tinamous, the recently described Diademed climbing tree trunks or branches. Birders should Tapaculo Scytalopus schulenbergi and Scribble‑ see scores of woodpeckers, woodcreepers, tailed Canastero Asthenes maculicauda at its furnariids, tyrant‑flycatchers and tanagers. northernmost limit. The stunted elfin forest Star species include Golden‑headed Quetzal along the roadside hosts several tanagers, Pharomachrus auriceps and Crested Quetzal P. flowerpiercers and the restricted‑range Puna antisianus, Blue‑banded Toucanet Aulacorhynchus Thistletail Schizoeaca helleri, found nowhere else coeruleicinctis, Versicolored Barbet Eubucco in the reserve. Ornithologically, this is one of versicolor, Lanceolated Monklet Micromonacha the poorest‑known sectors of Manu; additional lanceolata, Chestnut‑breasted Wren Cyphorhinus species are bound to be discovered in due course. thoracicus, the endemic Cerulean‑capped Using Wayquecha Biological Station, Esperanza, Manakin Pipra coeruleocapilla, Slaty Gnateater as a base, you can work the area comfortably. Conopophaga ardesiaca and Peruvian Piedtail Descending from 3,400 m to 2,500 m, elfin Phlogophilus harterti, a Near Threatened endemic. forest grades into upper elevation humid cloud Leaving behind the Andean foothills, the forest characterised by treeferns and Chusquea road passes through a populated area between bamboo stands. The narrow, little‑used road Chontachaca and Pilcopata, a region cultivated provides excellent birding. Highlights include since the Inca period. This is Manu’s sole area for Gray‑breasted Mountain Toucan Andigena open‑country birds such as Scissor‑tailed Nightjar hypoglauca (Near Threatened; relatively common), Hydropsalis torquata and Yellow Tyrannulet Swallow‑tailed Nightjar Uropsalis segmentata, Capsiempis flaveola. Moving on, birders soon Mountain Cacique Cacicus chrysonotus, the reach the near‑pristine forests of the western stunning Barred Fruiteater Pipreola arcuata, Amazon, which have the world’s highest diversity the endemic Marcapata Spinetail Cranioleuca of birdlife per hectare of terrestrial habitat. Here marcapatae and White‑collared Jay Cyanolyca the ríos Manu and Alto Madre de Díos meander viridicyana. To get into the understorey and slowly in a broadly easterly direction and it is search for its elusive inhabitants, head to time to take to the water in motorised canoes. Wayquecha Biological Station. With patience and In June–October (the dry season), exposed luck, birders may see the endemic and localised white‑sand and pebble beaches provide valuable Red‑and‑white Antpitta Grallaria erythroleuca, and undisturbed nest‑sites for Orinoco Goose Undulated Antpitta Grallaria squamigera and Neochen jubata (Near Threatened), Black Hooded Tinamou Nothocercus nigrocapillus. Skimmer Rynchops niger, Large‑billed Tern Continuing down the ‘Manu road’ through Phaetusa simplex, Yellow‑billed Tern Sterna unbroken humid forest, visitors will perceive superciliaris, Pied Plover Hoploxypterus a shift in the bird community with every 500 cayanus, Collared Plover Charadrius collaris m drop in altitude. Forests below 1,900 m (and and Sand‑colored Nighthawk Chordeiles particularly at 900–1,500 m) are home to Peru’s rupestris. Jabiru Jabiru mycteria, Wood Stork national bird, Andean Cock‑of‑the‑rock Rupicola Mycteria americana, Roseate Spoonbill Ajaia peruviana. Manu has to be the easiest place to ajaja and a variety of egrets and herons also witness the remarkable lek of this species, one of gather on the beaches. In late July and August, the world’s great ornithological spectacles. Just they are joined by Nearctic waders on their four minutes’ walk from the breakfast table at southbound post‑breeding migration. Cock‑of‑the‑Rock Lodge, a comfortable 20‑person Due to natural river dynamics, many oxbow hide provides stunning views of this cotinga lakes have been created. Their development varies and offers great photographic opportunities. considerably from recently formed waterbodies to This is one of Manu’s magical moments: to be very old, overgrown lakes with almost no water. in the hide as dawn breaks, hear the birds start On the many oxbows that flank the rivers, look their manoeuvres and watch proceedings build for Anhinga Anhinga anhinga, Agami Heron up to a raucous dancing climax.