Caution, Reader. If You Want the Dispassion of Scholarship Or the Investigative Scrutiny of Journalism, Look Elsewhere. This Is a Lover's Lament
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11) Gte Spring 1986 Caution, reader. If you want the dispassion of scholarship or the investigative scrutiny of journalism, look elsewhere. This is a lover's lament. Above: In tide and outside: Portales ol me Spanish Above: Urban development clustered around open Top: Good pedestrian environment design: a Governor's Palace, 1749, restored, 1930 spaces: Main Plaza section ol the River Walk built in the 1930s. Bottom: Woeful neglect: Brackenrldge Park Some Straight Talk Sherry Kafka Wagner To me, San Antonio is, and always will be, array of irregularly shaped lots and 1 speak, of course, of the central city, that San Antonio urban design. The last a special place. Thar is why I find this convoluted streets, visitors tend to part contained within Loop 410. For the example of this principle was the piece difficult to write. Perhaps my vision experience the city as haphazard and parts of the city presently being created development of the Pasco del Rio, San is clouded since I only light in the city unplanned Not so. This settlement site around and beyond the loop in the Antonio's famed River Walk. The design from time to time. Perhaps circumstances was chosen by the coot and practiced eye familiar urban sprawl, there is no and development of the River Walk is in San Antonio are better than I think. I of Spanish missionaries who understood meaningful planning. It is happening as it actually an example of communal folk art, hope so, for as I perceive it, the city's that only cartful planning and building happens, without guidance and direction the result of contributions by many minds, present condition is sad. San Antonio would ensure survival in this semi-arid and only the barest minimum of standards talents, and crafts over a number of years. matters ro me. Although I no longer land so distant from the supply centers of and controls. These new suburbs have Perhaps that is why it conveys the reside there, I have an immoderate Mexico. The Spanish chose this place little in common with the older city from environmental sensitivity so conspicu- devo'fon to the place, deep gratitude for because there was ample water and a which they derive. They are simply ously absent in city development during all the city taught me and the pleasure it terrain suitable for a gravity-flow another manifestation of that the last 20 years. has given me, and a serious concern for its irrigation system. "Here,'' Father Antonio monotonous and predictable American present and future. Olivares wrote, "and nowhere else."" landscape Steven Spielberg uses for the Not only has this urban design principle setting of his films about exploding been lost, but the urban spaces that exist San Antonio is a city with character. As Following the land contours that slowly houses and alien infestation. Today's are, for the most part, woefully neglected southwestern cities go, it is an old town. dropped from litile hills in the north and suburb-sprawling San Antonio looks on Brackenridge Park, a splendid, heavily- While Texas noisily announces its 150th west to the flat lands of the east and planning as antithetical to growth, a used, 370-acre city asset, is heartbreak- anniversary this year, San Antonio is south, the colonists laid out a water rather ironic situation considering that, ingly tattered and strained. Not only is quietly celebrating its 268th birthday. It is system that, when completed, consisted of without careful planning, there would be the city failing to perpetuate the tradition a century older than most Texas cities, seven canals and a number of dams and no city to grow. of good urban design, it is, through and the difference does not end there. aqueducts. It watered several thousand neglect, eroding the quality of the good What makes the place distinctive? For acres. The land was divided into long Spanish city-making skills extended urban spaces it has inherited. me, the answer lies in three elements and narrow lots called merles, which ran beyond the water engineering learned their pattern of continuous interaction: between the canal and the river or creek. from the Moors As designers, the The River Walk itself is in danger of the physical form of the city, its history As a property right, each suerle carried Spanish were particularly sensitive to the being loved to death. Now that it is and heritage, and the fact thai its with it a water allotment to be used in a integration of the natural and built recognized as a priceless asset, it is being population has always been diverse, never designated time period. The watercourses environments. This principle of a exploited without mercy or thought. First, homogenous. influenced the land patterns, and the planned, harmonious, interactive a pond-like extension was made into the irregularly shaped lots resulted in relationship between inside and outside, HemisFair grounds in 1967. Devices To discuss San Antonio, one must always winding, twisting roads In San Antonio, between what is growing and what is installed to keep the water moving go back in time. In fact, it sometimes the grid pattern of Spanish colonial towns built, has continued as a motif in the through this still channel either do not seems that the past is the best thing about was modified by the primacy of water design of San Antonio residences from work or there is no money to maintain the city. San Antonio has a rich and varied needs. the earliest houses to the most recent. them. Hence the natural movement of the history, the stuff of song and myth, and This same principle is apparent in the river's current has been slowed. Soon after traces of those lost days still linger in the From the city's founding in 1718 until city's early urban design where this construction, a flood retainer gate was streets. It is possible to sit on a river bank 1899 when the city abolished the office of development was densely clustered around reltxrated so the tourist boats could make a that looks as it did when nomadic Indians canal commissioner and established the large open spaces. This design concept complete loop without turning. This camped there; enter simple houses built office of street superintendent, the has endowed the city with a number of resulted in more slowing of the river's and used by the first settlers; worship in canals - together with the river and creek plazas and parks in the downtown and movement. Famed for more than 200 old Spanish missions; explore the fort that fed them • were the most prominent center city. Downtown contains Main years as a source of clean water, the river where Geronimo was held prisoner; visit physical feature of the city. Except for a Plaza. Military Plaza (although City Hall now moves too slowly to cleanse the a parish church which Colonel Robert E. few stray remnants around town, the was built in its center), Alamo Plaza, water as it once did. And this is occurring Lee helped to build; stroll through the canals are no longer visible, but the city Romana Plaza, Travis Park, Milam Park, at a time when urbanization and ever- plaza where the first cattle drives were form still reflects their existence. Columbus Park, and Maverick Park. The building river use is increasing the dirty organized; see the spot where barbed center city has additional open space in runoff into the river Recently, a teacher wire, the invention that would change the Because of this unusual development King William Park, Mahncke Park, showed his seventh-grade class a river face of the west, was first demonstrated; concept, San Antonio is not an easy city to Madison Square Park, Crockett Square, film made some years ago. The youngsters order a beer where Teddy Roosevelt comprehend. It is physically complex, and the larger Roosevelt and were convinced the filmmaker had ' drank with his Roughriders; and gaze revealing itself in stages and providing Brackenridge parks. doctored the film. "The water looks too down on the river from a bridge that unexpected vistas, arresting spatial clean," they protested. served O, Henry as the setting for a story. sequences, surprising points of visual While the design principle of contextual The city's history cannot be denied. terminus. It is a city of complexity, and environmental integration has At this moment, another pond-like ambiguity, and subtlety, attributes that endured in the design of residences, it extension is under construction, financed When first confronted with San Antonio's derive from its original plan. seems to have been abandoned in recent by the city through an Urban Cite Spring 1986 11 JBBffiT * n • uz... 1 ••••• •••••[•••«"•• mi . pn ALAMO FABRICS .' .,,.. ..•«•! •••-,>•• TtPB: DfcT ^£,^,7. ™ III"" FABR.C5 A GIFTS III UK _——- ~~ «-B .tf» li U II HHH HUH 000 nun ODD 0 fl li l> >l I - I I . I :i; | ,iu.r Top: Sleeh suburbs and glass lower*: dell) Houston Street vignettes, clockwise from lop: Reunion Square, Skidmore, Owings and Merrill, RepublicBank Plaza incorporating lacade of 19S6 and (right) Airport Center. Harwood K. Smith demolished Texas Theater. Ford. Powell and and Partners, 1986. Bottom: San Pedro Avenue Carson and Fisher and Spillman, 1985; view Irom and Loop 410. (center) Two SASA Cenler, Lloyd Houston Street Bridge toward River Walk and Jones Brewer and Associates, 1983 and (right) Holiday Inn construction site; view south on SASA Cenler, Hellmuth, Obata and Kassabaum, SI. Mary's Street toward octagonal Smith-Young 1980 Tower; and Frost Brothers, Harvey L. Page, 1930 • It lit the Old Town Photography by Paul Hester Development Action Grant from the Convention and Visitors Bureau says that The story goes on.