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Feature Web 03-04 Northwest Explorer Washington’s Forgotten Mountains The open wildflower meadows of Snow Moun- tain are just one of the reasons to visit the Kettle Range in Washington’s OMANO Northeast corner. R RAIG C The Kettle Range overflows with beauty and solitude By Craig Romano gentle giants. green State that more closely re- But it’s not the Kettle’s soaring sembles Montana. Beyond the craggy and snow- peaks, among the highest summits in But once I get past the backcountry covered Cascades and north of the eastern Washington, that attract me to bovines, there’s nothing but pure arid Columbia Plateau lies them. It’s the pure wildness and eastern Washington wilderness. The Washington’s forgotten mountains, remoteness of this range that I find so Kettles run south from the Columbia the Kettle River Range. Named for a alluring. Located in rural Ferry River for approximately 75 miles, and major but little-known tributary to the County with a population of just over north to the Canadian Border, a Columbia River, the Kettle Mountains 7,000, the area is a far cry and a long transitional barrier between the are also a prominent natural feature ways away from sprawling and Cascades and the Selkirks. It’s a land unfamiliar to most Washingtonians. crowded Puget Sound. Over 100 miles of incredible biological diversity, for Rising in the sun-baked Okanogan of good trails traverse the Kettles, yet this is where east meets west in the Highlands to heights exceeding 7,000 I’ve rarely encountered a fellow Evergreen State. Southern slopes see feet, the Kettle Mountains are an human soul when I’ve taken to them. sage creeping skyward, while ravines impressive and imposing landmark. More often I’ve shared the lower in the shadows of northern slopes Lofty yes, but smooth contours and elevations with wayward cattle, for this shade dense stands of fir and cedar. rounded ridges make this a range of is range country, a part of the Ever- Sufficient snowfall buries the Northwest Explorer up the slopes—continuing to erode this special place. The Kettle Mountains need to be “discovered” by more people willing to protect them. Both east- and westsiders soon find that the extra time and effort needed to explore this obscure region is well worth it. Following are three introductory adventures you can take to get acquainted with Washington’s forgotten mountains. Then after your acquaintance has been made with this wild corner of the state, you can decide if you want to help make the Kettle Mountains one of Washington’s next federally-protected Wilderness areas. I’m convinced you will. Copper Butte There are several ways to get to Copper Butte, but none as breathtak- ing as the Marcus Trail. The Marcus Trail winds 3.5 miles to the Kettle Crest Trail where it’s an additional 1.25 miles to the 7,140-foot summit. Nearly 2 miles of the way is through some of the finest alpine meadows in On the Marcus Trail to the summit of Copper Butte, solitude reigns. the entire range. Lots of old-growth forest too. From the old lookout site, the highest point in the Kettles, a Kettles from November to April, while spirits in these mountains on numer- sparsely populated land of green blistering heat and sporadic fires ous occasions; through winds whistling slopes and yellow valleys spreads out scorch them in the summer months. in charred snags to thunderous clouds before you, including BC’s interior Wildflowers explode into bloom come swirling over peaks aimed high toward ranges, the Columbia Plateau, Idaho’s late spring, painting the alpine the heavens. Panhandle peaks, and the Tiffany meadows in a full spectrum of colors. Being an obscure mountain range Highlands. I’ve hiked to Copper on By late summer when the last of the has been both a blessing and a curse several occasions, always having this harebells parade their purples, larches to the Kettles. For while these special mountain to myself. Once, begin to light up the forest in a golden mountains are under no threat of however, a curious cougar cruised hue. over-use from hikers, mountain bikers, along my course. Upon my return Deer are found in profusion in the and equestrians, they are slowly being from the summit, her fresh tracks Kettle’s open pine forests and glorious besieged by logging, mining, and implanted in my boot prints gave meadows. Moose ply these mountains ranching interests. Dropped from the testimony that I wasn’t really alone on too. The Kettles act as refuge for the 1984 Washington Wilderness Act Copper after all. occasional BC grizzly, and the lynx because of opposition from these and the wolverine still call these resource groups, the Kettles still lack mountains home. Both black bear and formal protection. However, owing to Snow Peak cougar roam freely within this wild the popularity of these mountains with range. local horseback riders, Colville The trail to Snow Peak traverses To the Colville Nation the Kettle National Forest rangers have at least one of the eeriest landscapes in the Mountains are a sacred place—a kept motorized users out. But, for how Kettles. In 1988, over 20,000 acres of sanctuary for young warriors to engage long? And each passing year sees Kettle Mountain high country went up in vision quests. I too have felt the another road being punched further Northwest Explorer Protecting the Kettles Perhaps no group of people would like to see the Kettle Mountains added to the federal wilderness system more than the Kettle Range Conservation Group (KRCG). Founded in 1976, the KRCG has been unrelenting in their efforts to protect this special region. Under executive director Tim Coleman, the Republic-based organization would not only like Hiker Heather Scott treks through remnants of a 1988 forest fire. Fire is to see a Kettle Mountain an integral part of the Kettle Range’s desert-steppe ecology. Wilderness, but full protection for one-third of the Colville in flames. The Snow Mountain Trail The trail to this summit travels just National Forest. Currently only 3 runs its course entirely within the under 3 miles and 2,000 vertical feet percent of the Colville is classi- burn zone. It is one of the most starkly via an open southeastern slope. fied as wilderness. The KRCG beautiful trails I have ever hiked. This Translated, this means early snow has identified several areas in is forest fire country, and the Kettles melt and early wildflower blossoms. the northeast corner of the state are shaped and defined by fire as First among them, arrowleaf worthy of wilderness status. In much as the Cascades are by water. balsamroot screams out: there’s gold addition to the Kettles, the group Fire doesn’t destroy life here in the in them thar hills! Wapaloosie Moun- seeks protection for the follow- highlands, it renews it. tain is a great peak for viewing desert- ing areas: the Abercrombie- Weaving in and out of ghost forests, steppe plants. The summit contains Hooknose Roadless Area (RA), the Snow Peak Trail ascends to the old-growth groves of white bark pine, Quartzite RA, Grassy Top RA, Kettle Crest. Lupine, fireweed, and subalpine fir, lodgepole pine and and the Hoodoo Canyon RA. The pearly everlastings contrast nicely with Engelmann spruce. Fires haven’t KRCG also is advocating for charred stumps, blackened logs, and scorched this peak yet so it’s a climax expansions of the Salmo-Priest silver snags. New understory greenery ecosystem you’ll be trekking through. Wilderness and of the Wenaha- is profusely blanketing the exposed Range cattle are rare on this peak too, Tucannon Wilderness in the soils. A new and regenerating forest is so plenty of native fescue grasses sway southeast corner of the state. claiming the mountain. And an open in the warm breezes . One warning: in Coleman points out too that a forest means non-stop views. This hike early summer you’ll be greeted by a reduction in ranching and a can be downright hot in the summer profusion of mosquitoes at the trailhead.! move toward more sound forest and downright nerve-wracking in an For more trail information, visit the fire policies must also be electrical storm. On a calm day be Colville National Forest website at implemented to restore integrity sure to make the scramble to the www.fs.fed.us/r6/colville to the greater ecosystem. The 7,103-foot summit. KRCG is also working with Freelance writer Craig Romano of mountain bike groups to create Wapaloosie Seattle enjoys seeking out the wild new trails from old roads should places of eastern Washington. His new wilderness areas displace Mountain upcoming book with fellow WTA these recreationists. For more member Alan Bauer, Best Hikes with information contact the Kettle Dogs Inland Northwest (Mountain- Range Conservation Group at One of the Kettle’s loftier peaks, eers Books) contains some of his (509) 775-2667, or visit this 7,078-foot mountain packs a favorite Kettle Mountain hikes. www.kettlerange.org. panoramic punch that’s hard to beat..
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