land Report 2017

Managing wild land for people and wildlife johnmuirtrust.org Pictured this page: Crossing the wire bridge at Steall Gorge with Trust land behind Opposite page: Dwarf willow, Sandwood

John Muir Trust gratefully Contents acknowledges support from 3 Introduction 12 Nevis Fire, footfall and flora 4 Sandwood On the tourist trail 14 Edited by: Rich Rowe, Nicky McClure Forest plans revealed 6 Quinag Design: Inkcap Design Photography: Don O’Driscoll, Lester A living landscape 16 Glenlude Standen, Romany Garnett, Sarah Lewis, A rewilding journey Stephen Ballard, James Brownhill, Blair 8 Skye Fyffe, Nicky McClure, Karen Purvis, People and place 18 Award Sandy Maxwell, Keith Brame and Kevin Lelland A powerful tool 10 Li & Coire Dhorrcail Cover image: Skye property manager Ally Macaskill collecting A recovering land 19 Special projects hawthorn seeds People power ©2017 y M a x well y and 2 | Land Report 2017 : S Ph oto Welcome

Welcome to the latest John Muir Trust Land Our small but dedicated team of land staff, contractors Report which highlights the range of work carried out and volunteers manage and monitor this land to ensure on the land we manage. Thanks to the generous support its wild land qualities are maintained and enhanced of our members, we own and care for almost 24,500 for the benefit of the landscape, its wildlife and people. hectares (60,500 acres) of wild land in the UK, ranging Between us, we plant trees, fix footpaths, monitor wildlife from , Sandwood Bay in the far northwest and vulnerable flora, cull deer to restore ecological Highlands, Schiehallion in , Quinag in , balance, aid habitat recovery, remove litter from coasts part of the on Skye, and Li & Coire Dhorrcail in and summits, and much more besides. remote to the far more accessible Glenlude in Managing such important areas of wild land is a the Scottish Borders. never-ending job, but it is a role we relish. And as you will Each area of land has its own distinct character. And read in these pages, our efforts to conserve and enhance each area is managed to both protect and enhance it, habitats and biodiversity for the benefit of all are reaping while also encouraging local communities and visitors to rewards at many of our properties. use and enjoy it to the full for their businesses, recreation, I hope you enjoy learning more about what we do on or through the John Muir Award. our land, and why. Our work is only possible with support In 2016 alone, more than 2,500 people achieved their from our members, volunteers and funders and we are John Muir Award as part of direct involvement with Trust very grateful for all they do to protect wild land. properties and partnerships. The following report, essentially a snapshot of our recent work, illustrates the huge variety of activities carried out on Trust land, and the breadth of people involved. For walkers, climbers, cyclists, musicians, artists, military personnel, hospital patients, local residents, tourists and many others, our land offers people of all ages and interests an opportunity to Mike Daniels experience some of the best wild land in the country. Head of Land Management r ap h: D on O’Dri scoll Ph otog

johnmuirtrust.org | 3 Sandwood,

On the tourist trail Fast facts > Sandwood covers 4,703 hectares (11,621 acres) of wild and crofted A bewitching place, Sandwood is an increasingly land just a few miles from Cape popular destination for tourists in the northwest Wrath, the most northwesterly tip of mainland Britain Highlands, explains Don O’Driscoll > The vast beach at Sandwood Bay is guarded on its south side by the sea stack Am Buachaille (the shepherd) The name Sandwood comes colour in summer. It is also home to from the Norse ‘Sandvatn’ meaning eight species of bumblebee including sandy loch, and refers to the land the rare great yellow which is now around the famous bay that draws confined to this very specific habitat. stoat, weasel, fox, mice and water visitors to this striking part of With machair-friendly grazing vole – although the latter is in Sutherland all year round. schemes in place, the health of decline. It’s a wild place. Just south of this important habitat is carefully We keep a close eye on seabirds Cape Wrath, Sandwood often feels maintained by crofters in nearby too, although our long-term the full force of the Atlantic weather townships. The Trust is working with monitoring continues to highlight a systems that roll in. The colour of one of the local grazing committees steady decline in numbers across a the landscape changes almost daily, and Scottish Natural Heritage to variety of species, including fulmar while the lack of light pollution instigate a land management scheme (see graph). There is more positive means that night skies can be designed to benefit crofters and the news for breeding pairs of raptors spectacular – particularly when the wider moorland environment. such as peregrine falcon, golden Northern Lights appear. We also work closely with local eagle, and sea eagle which are all Our Sandwood estate is a national schools, helping deliver rural skills holding steady. Site of Special Scientific Interest, programmes and educating pupils From the shore, common and grey with large parts also designated about issues such as marine litter. seals are often spotted, while lucky as a European Special Area of visitors can also catch a glimpse Conservation. It’s also a land of great Habitat monitoring of various cetaceans, sometimes archaeological interest. The Trust’s monitoring work extends including orca and bottlenose Almost half of the estate is covered beyond the machair to include dolphin. by blanket bog, although there are heather, blanket bog and juniper, Unsurprisingly, tourism is hugely also hills, lochs, dunes, weathered which are all checked for grazing and important to the area with the recent sea cliffs and machair – a flower-rich trampling impacts. With declining development of the North Coast 500 habitat found only in certain parts sheep numbers and red deer kept generating a considerable boost in of Britain and Ireland. Highly valued at around 150 animals (a density of tourist numbers across the North by crofters for the rich feeding it two/three per square kilometre), the Highlands, with around 15,000 provides stock, machair land was ground is lightly grazed. visitors now coming to Sandwood once also important for growing oats Sandwood is home to a healthy Bay each year. and potatoes. number of otters, a small but stable Acutely aware of the fine balance The machair holds more than 220 population of mountain hare, and between facilitating access and species of wildflower and is a riot of a range of other mammals such as limiting damage to this fragile landscape, the Trust has invested Sandwood Estate | Maximum fulmar numbers 1997-2016 heavily in upgrading the Sandwood 800 footpath, plus providing a car park

700 and toilets at the trail head.

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100 Don O’Driscoll is the Trust’s Sandwood & Quinag Property 0 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 Manager

4 | Land Report 2017 an k T k ac

Sandwood perspectives r ap h: J Ph otog Graeme Smart Acting Head Teacher, Kinlochbervie and Durness Schools

We have always had a very good working relationship with the John Muir Trust and particularly with our local ranger who has worked in and out of school with a range of pupils on a variety of projects including John Muir Awards and our Rural Skills programme. I fully expect that to continue in the future, and our pupils will continue to benefit greatly from the experience.” ur e Pictured: Beach cleaning at Sandwood (main); machair in full flower

johnmuirtrust.org | 5 ky M c C l r ap h: Ni c ky Ph otog Quinag, Sutherland

Muir Award, while a Wildlife Watch A living landscape group also spent time with Trust staff finding out more about bugs and beasties. Working in partnership with local communities In 2016, adult volunteers from the surrounding area helped with is key to enhancing this particularly wild part of footpath repairs during a special Assynt, writes Romany Garnett footpath skills training day, while naturalist David O’Brien held an ID training day on Quinag looking at the many amphibians and reptiles that Assynt is a hill walker’s paradise, is also key as we help people to are found on the property. with Quinag one of the most popular reconnect with the landscape The Trust also recently teamed mountains of all. It’s easy to see why. through educational activities, with the Rotal Botanic Gardens, Kew With three summits – Sàil Gharbh, guided walks and volunteering in a project to collect tree seeds from Sàil Ghorm and Spidean Coinich – opportunities. our various properties. The project, striking ridges, and sweeping views, which aims to establish a national it’s a special place to be. Annual monitoring collection of native tree seeds for Up high, it’s possible to glimpse As part of our annual monitoring long-term conservation, saw us golden eagle, ptarmigan and ring programme in late-spring, we check collect seeds from birch, holly, ouzel, while on the shoreline the progress of 155 marked seedlings rowan, wych elm and honeysuckle sightings of seals and dolphins that are scattered over a range of at what is one of the most northerly are common. Bridging the two are habitats. Species include downy collection sites for the project. otters that hunt along burns, often birch, rowan, hazel, willow, aspen following them from the shore to the and holly. The average seedling Hill to grill bealach high above. growth in 2016 was 2.1 cm, with 67% In another exciting initiative, we are A small section of the north part of of seedlings taller than the previous working with the Coigach & Assynt the estate is designated as a Special year. While such results demonstrate Living Landscape Partnership on its Area of Conservation and also as some degree of regeneration there Outdoor and Woodland Learning a Site of Special Scientific Interest. is still a need to further reduce Project to deliver a programme with With such designations, we work browsing pressure. Ullapool High School called Hill to hard to ensure that nature is given At our dwarf shrub heath plots, Grill. the best chance to flourish. This the mean height for heather was Funded by the Heritage Lottery work includes reducing the grazing 19.8cm in 2016, slightly down on the Fund, the Scottish Wildlife Trust- pressure of deer, monitoring invasive previous year. In total, 85.3% of plots led programme sees pupils spend species such as mink, and repairing were lightly browsed, while 73.7% of three days on the hill learning about footpaths. plots had deer dung present, which everything from stalking deer with Working with the local community indicates prolonged browsing. cameras to butchering, processing, In terms of fauna, we also record cooking and eating wild venison. The butterflies – from the small pearl programme, which encourages the bordered fritillary to large heath and concept of eating sustainable local Fast facts an abundance of magpie moths – food, is just another example of how > Quinag covers 3,699 hectares plus birds such as stonechat, skylark, we help people connect with the (9,140 acres) of the Assynt- snipe and curlew. Water voles are land. Coigach National Scenic Area also monitored every year. > Quinag is an anglicisation of its Gaelic name, A’ Chuinneag Guided activities (meaning the milk pail) Our popular programme of summer > We maintain the mountain guided walks attracts locals and path to Quinag’s three summits, visitors alike. Walks vary from and also work to restore deer historic forays to learning Gaelic in populations to a sustainable the landscape and high mountain Romany Garnett is the Trust’s level treks. All offer a chance to explain Quinag Conservation Officer. > The Ardvar Woodlands on the north side of Quinag are one the Trust’s work and help bring the of the most northern remnants landscape to life for all ages. of native oak woodland in the We’ve hosted pupils from British Isles Lochinver, who learnt about ecological monitoring for their John

6 | Land Report 2017 Quinag perspectives Geopark.” impressive features of the North West is listed in the Local Geodiversity Action Plan as one of the most from school pupils to the international research community. Quinag behavior. many observable features which contribute to our knowledge of ice Quinag is a textbook example of a glaciated landscape and contains on palaeo-climatic events and the behaviour of ancient glaciers. sheet and stood proud for long periods of time, providing key data were once nunataks – mountains that poked up higher than the ice the observation that the mountains of the northwest as it was here that the investigation of frost-shattered rock led to glaciation. these rock types, but it also bears the scars from millennia of does the mountain provide insight into the relationships between gneiss, it represents three billion years of Earth’s history. Not only veneer of Cambrian quartzite and resting on a foundation of Lewisian Pictured: A group enjoying one of the Trust’s guided walks on Quinag West Highlands Geopark Geoarchaeologist, North Dr Laura Hamlet The mountain is frequented by geologists of every walk of life, Quinag has been of particular importance to quaternary geology mountains of Assynt. Capped with a thin Quinag is one of the great Torridonian

H ighlands U NESCO Global H ighlands accommodation provider Hill walker and local Dave McBain Photographers will love it too.” at least a couple of dozen cracking routes in one self-contained range. great place to see ptarmigan, grouse, deer, eagles and buzzards. dumped on top of three stones with a stream running under it. around the northeast side, including a rock the size of a large shed reach the top! waterfall and cave right in the middle. And that’s before you even hid stolen cattle) which is just an amazing pasture with a hidden out of the there are three amazing lumps on Sail Garbh that look like something there are a couple of glorious waterfalls to enjoy. Perhaps best of all, after your climb. And if you follow the burn out rather than the path, Y day of it and climb the full set, with its mix of drops, bowls and ridges. down in three hours or so. Choose from one peak or make a whole walk in, with at least one peak just a steady trek, so you can be up and ou can’t ask for much more from a mountain. Much more than a mountain, Quinag is a walker’s playground with Of course if you’re a wanderer, there are fascinating erratics all There’s also a cracking loch at the bottom if you fancy a swim to climb their first mountain. I ’d recommend Quinag to anyone looking H obbit. Look out too for the cattle byre (where raiders once

I t’s an easy johnmuirtrust.org |7 I t’s a

Photograph: Romany Garnett Skye properties

People and place Fast facts > The Trust’s largest property, our three estates on Skye cover Full of mystery and variety, Skye is a place where a combined 12,000 ha (29,650 the land and its people are inextricably linked, acres) > Much of our Skye property lies says Sarah Lewis within the Cuillin Hills National Scenic Area > The farm at Strathaird has been under agriculture for possibly Combining rugged beauty has seen a sharing of knowledge and thousands of years with deep-rooted crofting traditions, the future promise of retaining local > The Trust is responsible for the Trust’s trio of adjoining estates skills to help with maintaining our around 60km of footpaths on on southern Skye – Strathaird, most heavily-used paths such as the Skye and Torrin – include most of main route up Blà Bheinn and the the Red Cuillin hills plus outliers to path from Sligachan to Loch Coruisk. the main Black Cuillin, such as Blà And our commitment to village of Keppoch is being harvested Bheinn. improving the footpath network and partially restocked with native This rich physical and cultural on our properties has not gone broadleaf species. The hope is that landscape is also a land full of unnoticed. “I’ve been up Blà Bheinn cultural heritage will find expression energy, with a growing number several times but stopped going again with the opening of access of local volunteers helping with because the path was so eroded,” to the ruins of the village, while everything from habitat monitoring commented one retired local a percentage keep of the harvest and footpath maintenance to native resident recently. “Now that it’s been will provide firewood for local tree seed collection and beach repaired, it’s much better.” communities. clearances. Other work on Skye includes Collaboration and engagement Wildlife and ecology efforts to improve the ecological and are at the centre of our work here. This is truly a place where the wild agricultural condition of the farm at This includes our involvement with things are: seals, basking sharks and Strathaird, which is used by a small the Rural Skills Course at the West a variety of other marine life are number of crofters for rotation of Highland College UHI which sees often spotted from the shore. There sheep, growing silage and other the Trust provide technical footpath are otters here too, while our Skye seasonal uses. training and upland path awareness properties are also in the heart of The management of the fields through our ongoing Skye Footpath both golden and sea eagle territory. here provides an example of the Project. The hope is that habitat for a symbiotic relationship between Similarly, our work with students variety of species will improve livestock use and ecological quality on the Rural College’s further following the establishment of worked land. Meanwhile, wild Countryside Management course of a range of tree seedlings across flower margins, created on once Glen Skaladel, and on bare ground, now attract pollinating towards the remote Loch Coruisk. insects and offer a seed supply for The fortunes of young rowan, aspen birds in the autumn. and birch have been improved by a Looking ahead, the possible reduction in grazing. development of the old kirk could Similarly, in the wilder and more bring further shape to the farm, remote areas of the Black Cuillin, with scope to communicate the the presence of new seedling growth fascinating history of the area and amongst the sub-alpine juniper its people to the growing number of heath is also encouraging. visitors to this part of Skye. Meanwhile, following replanting and natural regeneration, we are seeing new areas of native woodland covering much of the Faolin site at a r h L ew i s Strathaird, which is helping draw together the wider coastal woodland fringe.

r ap h: S Ph otog Elsewhere, the forestry Sarah Lewis is the Trust’s Skye A rowan ablaze with berries compartment around the old cleared Conservation Officer

8 | Land Report 2017 Skye perspectives Mike Lates Hector Nicolson Heather McNeill Skye Guides Crofter and Course Leader, Chair of Sconser Crofting & We guide clients Management Countryside Skills, most days in Committee West Highland summer on Blà Bheinn College UHI and are blessed to As a fourth have a footpath, built generation and maintained by the Staff and crofter in Sconser, the environment, its John Muir Trust, that makes the approach students of West Highland College people and management of the land are far easier than it used to be. Some of our UHI’s National Certificate in Crofting & very important to me, and have been the guests want to take in what is considered Countryside Skills Course enjoy a strong focus of my time as Chair of Sconser the best mountain vista in the UK from the and rewarding partnership with the John Management Committee. summit, while the more adventurous tackle Muir Trust. As a committee we have enjoyed good perhaps the best scramble in the British The course is based at our Broadford working relationships with employees Isles – the traverse of Clach Glas. Ease of College Centre and is now in its fourth of the John Muir Trust down the years. access also makes it a prime venue for rock consecutive year. We encourage working Personally, I have engaged with schools, and ice climbing. with local land owners in order to enhance both primary and secondary, promoting the Walking through Trust land is a delight the students’ knowledge and understanding land and helping people achieve their John with eagles, deer and otters commonly seen. of the environment, compare land Muir Awards. This has been very rewarding Another route we frequently recommend management styles, gain practical skills, as, in my view, the future of crofting and and guide takes walkers into the bay at and introduce students to potential future land management will flourish through Camasunary before following the coastal employment opportunities. educating and encouraging youngsters for path south into the fishing village of Elgol. Working with the John Muir Trust has them to take it forward. The Trust does an amazing job of enabled us to gain insight into its ethos, Looking to the future, I believe it would running the Strathaird estate, keeping participate in habitat studies, and undertake be of benefit to both the John Muir Trust visitors and residents happy in a mutually tasks such as tree planting and footpath and the people living and working on the beneficial relationship. Preserving this building projects, all with the benefit of land to have consultation meetings with the landscape is key and the Trust gives having experienced Trust staff who are keen trustees on a more regular basis to discuss assistance to local people to work the land to share their knowledge and love of the local issues and policies.” in a sustainable manner.” countryside with our students.”

Pictured: Habitat monitoring high in the hills of Skye a r h L ew i s

johnmuirtrust.org | 9 r ap h: S Ph otog Li & Coire Dhorrcail, Knoydart

maintained by some neighbouring A recovering land sporting estates. The good news is that as the woodland develops, so the shelter and forage quality for Significant ecosystem recovery continues at the deer improves. Fences are a temporary measure Trust’s first property, writesMike Daniels but can only protect a limited area for a short period of time. Ultimately, deer numbers need to be controlled Rugged and remote, Li and Dhorrcail. With the facility now ready across the wider area by culling. Due Coire Dhorrcail within the Knoydart for use, we will plant thousands more to the remoteness of the property – National Scenic Area was the Trust’s trees in the years to come. an area accessible only on foot or by first land acquisition in 1987. Thanks Alongside the planting work, boat – culling is tough work made to 30 years of hard work, this once staff and volunteer work parties harder by the contentious issue of ecologically impoverished landscape have spent time clearing invasive reducing populations in an area continues to recover, with native species, repairing paths, maintaining where high numbers are sought by woodland spreading and the wider fencing to protect the seedlings, and some. ecosystem slowly returning to life. collecting birch seeds for further Overall, we are making good In 2015, we launched an appeal seedling production. progress in Knoydart – a property to raise £60,000 to continue As the woodland gradually that continues to showcase what can expanding coverage of native develops and expands, native be achieved over time and through woodland in Knoydart, and help wildlife such as pine martens, the dedication of Trust staff and regenerate habitat for a range of otters, bats and woodland birds are volunteers. plants, animals and insects. Our goal all beginning to return to the area. was to plant 50,000 trees over four The hope is that as the woodland years, increasing native tree cover continues to expand, more and more to over 10% and make a significant native wildlife will make its home in difference to the area’s biodiversity. Knoydart. Thanks to the incredible generosity of our supporters, we Browsing pressure managed to beat our fundraising Deer management is essential to the Ally Macaskill is the Trust’s property target, and since then our staff and re-establishment of woodland on manager for Skye and Knoydart. He volunteers have been busy planting, Knoydart. Planted and regenerating took over from the previous property weeding and growing. Over the seedlings are under constant threat manager for Knoydart, Lester last year, the Trust has planted from artificially high deer numbers Standen, in early 2017. 11,000 birch, hazel and alder trees, germinated 15,000 Scots pine seeds, and built a new tree nursery at Inbhir

Fast facts > Li & Coire Dhorrcail extends to 1,255 hectares (3,100 acres) on the north-eastern slopes of > A reduction in deer numbers has seen significant natural regeneration of birch, oak, hazel, rowan and Scots pine > With help from volunteers, we

also maintain the old stalker’s path alla r d into Coire Dhorrcail

> In 2015, the Trust’s work at Li & tep h en B Coire Dhorrcail was recognised by Scotland’s Finest Woods Awards as ‘an exemplar of

sustainable land management’ r ap h: S Ph otog Native tree cover returns to Li & Coire Dhorrcail

10 | Land Report 2017 ll hi wn o Br ames h: J ap r

Knoydart perspectives otog Ph Angela Williams Knoydart Foundation

The Knoydart Foundation and the John Muir Trust have had a close working relationship for many years now. The Trust was a key supporter of the buyout in 1999 and has played an active role on the board of the Foundation since then.

The Trust has also been a member of the Foundation’s land management group and, more recently, have helped establish the West Knoydart Deer Management group to cooperate on deer management planning. While the two organisations have different objectives with regard to deer management, there is still a close working relationship on the ground, with respect for the different approaches taken.

The Trust has also helped support Foundation activity through the conservation fund. Trust volunteers are warmly welcomed regular visitors to Knoydart, undertaking work that we would struggle with on our own.”

Pictured: Staff and volunteers creating a tree nursery at Inbhir Dhorrcail (main); new Knoydart property manager Ally Macaskill and faithful friend

johnmuirtrust.org | 11 rAPh: LESTEr STANDEN otog Ph Ben Nevis, Lochaber

with GPS records. Fire, feet and flora A collaborative project between botanists, geologists and mountain guides, the survey was a resounding From fire to rockfall and 140,000 visitors, life is success and one we hope to repeat. A host of mountain guides have now rarely dull when working on the UK’s highest been inspired to share the hidden summit, writes Alison Austin value of some of these unassuming plants with a much wider audience. Lower down, in Glen Nevis, our monitoring of tree seedlings As befits the highest peak with 100 tonnes of rock smashing continues to highlight slow but in the UK, Ben Nevis is a hugely its way down the hillside above the steady signs of recovery, with an popular destination. More than Steall Path, damaging the woodland average increase in the height of 100,000 people walk to the summit and path below. We had to close the marked broadleaf seedlings of each year, while around 40,000 enjoy path for several weeks to enable a 22.8cm since 2008. This corresponds the rather less arduous route through rope access team to assess the fallen with monitoring carried out on Steall Gorge to the base of the Steall debris, move any remaining unstable neighbouring land which shows Ban waterfall. blocks, and cut broken trees that small but encouraging signs of A large portion of our work at were a hazard to walkers on the path. growth. Nevis sees us manage such visitor An expensive and time consuming Sadly, however, there is no sign impact by maintaining the upper operation, we are very fortunate to of any regeneration of Scots pine section of the Ben Nevis summit have such generous donors who gave seedlings. To remedy this, we are path, plus the trail through Steall to our Wild Ways Appeal and allowed planting a series of seedlings that Gorge. We also undertake regular us to move quickly to reopen the have been collected and grown on wildlife and habitat surveys, and path. in Glen Nevis by NLP’s Future Forest continue to restore the wider ecology Projects. The hope is that this will of the area, including expansion of Key partnership help re-establish a younger cohort native woodland. Beginning in 2013, our work of Scots pine alongside the ageing Sometimes, unexpected events alongside the Heritage Lottery- granny pines to ensure the future can have a major impact. Sadly, a fire funded Nevis Landscape Partnership survival of this vital component of that originated on the Steall path in (NLP) has been particularly the area’s native woodland. early 2016 damaged more than half important. As part of this One way that we are delivering of the marked tree seedlings planted partnership, the Trust carried out our message about the importance in 2008. Thankfully, in 2014, we extensive repairs to the base of the of these wild places is by forging ever established a further cohort of 100 cairn supporting the trig point on the closer links with the annual Fort seedlings to monitor into the future. summit of Ben Nevis in 2015. William Mountain Festival. In 2017, The same area was also hit by As well as general repairs of the Trust became the lead sponsor a major landslip in October 2016, the summit structures, the work for the festival’s prestigious film culminated in competition, which enabled us to re-surveying the height of Ben Nevis share our vision for wild land with a and realising that it was a little higher wide audience. Fast facts than previously measured! Thanks to > Our Nevis estate covers 1,761 the gaining of a few centimetres, the hectares (4,351 acres) within summit is now officially recorded as the Ben Nevis Special Area of 1,345m. Conservation Meanwhile, 2016 also saw the > As well as Ben Nevis, the estate third and final year of an NLP-led includes the summits of two project to re-survey the north face other : Carn Mor Dearg of Ben Nevis for rare arctic-alpine Alison Austin is the Trust’s Ben Nevis and Aonach Beag species. Previous populations of Property Manager. > We maintain 7kms of path on the mouse-ears, saxifrages, grasses and Nevis Estate various sedges appeared vulnerable, > We undertake litter clearances on the summit of Ben Nevis with many being damaged by every quarter (removing more trampling. However, the survey than 18 bin bags of rubbish on exceeded all expectations, finding one recent clearance) and doubling or more our record of many species, and mapping them

12 | Land Report 2017 Ben Nevis perspectives Mark Greaves Mike Pescod Ian Strachan Geodetic Fort William Botanist Consultant, Mountain Festival Ordnance Survey The Ben Nevis Fort William north face project The new height Mountain Festival has been an amazing of Ben Nevis relates to aims to help people experience, which the highest natural point understand the value allowed me and fellow on the summit and was of the beautiful wild botanists to explore measured as 1,344.527m. I double checked landscape surrounding Fort William by the awesome cliffs, crags and gullies of the everything and asked others to do so too. sharing films and hearing presentations north face of Scotland’s highest mountain What is amazing is how close the surveyors by people who engage with the landscape. in safety – getting to places I have only been in 1949 were. The measured height We aim to inspire people to take part able to look at from afar with binoculars. has changed by centimetres, but those in workshops and competitions so that Our climbing guides were superb and centimetres mean we now need to round up they can appreciate Ben Nevis and Glen took a real interest in the project, identifying rather than down. So that’s why Ben Nevis Nevis more through poetry, film making, likely locations for rare plants and even will now be officially known as 1,345m.” understanding Gaelic place names, spotting them! We have found numerous mountaineering and climbing. The John previously unknown sites for nationally Muir Trust has been a long standing and rare and scarce plants, such as Highland very supportive partner, for which we are saxifrage, hare’s-foot sedge, alpine very grateful. speedwell and even tufted saxifrage, which We now work closely with the Trust seems to be struggling elsewhere. to deliver the annual film competition We found the first sites for Ben Nevis which forms a central part of the festival. of alpine saxifrage and the largest known Film gives us the ability to reach people population in Britain of wavy meadowgrass. around the world and by supporting and This survey has allowed us to confirm encouraging film makers we will continue that the mountain flora of this SSSI is Pictured: Building materials being to demonstrate the importance of our wild in ‘favourable condition’ and to create a heli-lifted to the summit of Ben Nevis land and our engagement with it.” baseline for future studies.”

johnmuirtrust.org | 13 r ap h: B la ir Fy ffe Ph otog East Schiehallion, Perthshire

Forest plans Fast facts > East Schiehallion covers an area revealed of 871 ha (2,152 acres), including the quieter Gleann Mor to the south > Volunteers typically spend 650 While grazing pressure remains an issue, there hours a year helping us look after are high hopes for the new Heart of Scotland Schiehallion Forest project, as Dr Liz Auty explains upland specialist, and a species that is particularly vulnerable to climate One of Scotland’s most years. Sadly, this work demonstrates change. recognisable mountains, that the site is changing little, and Schiehallion is beloved by walkers, that the regenerating saplings close Inventing lines botanists and wildlife enthusiasts. to existing ancient woodland are Schiehallion was the site of More than 20,000 people climb to the simply not growing due to continued Reverend Neville Maskelyne’s 18th summit every year on a main path high grazing pressure from deer and Century experiment in ‘weighing that has been dramatically realigned sheep. the world’ – an endeavour recently and improved by the Trust since we The Trust has long worked in explored by installation and first took ownership of the property partnership with Kynachan Estate, performance artist Karen Rann. in 1999. Forest Enterprise and Highland For her Great Lines project, Karen Part of the appeal of Schiehallion Perthshire Communities Land Trust, investigated the work of Charles is the influence of the underlying but we are now also working with Hutton, the mathematician who quartzite and limestone on the area’s the Woodland Trust and the Scottish developed contour lines from the vegetation and habitat. Sited within Wildlife Trust on an exciting new measurements taken for Maskelyne’s the and Glen Lyon project – the Heart of Scotland Forest experiment. National Scenic Area, part of East Partnership. Together with Karen, we visited Schiehallion is also designated as a As part of this project, we plan to the site of the Southern observatory Site of Special Scientific Interest for fence some areas at East Schiehallion used by Maskelyne and saw how its geology and montane habitat. to exclude neighbouring sheep and surveyors had placed poles at We are pleased that this remains in encourage natural regeneration. In various points on the mountain and favourable condition. time, we hope to develop a woodland across Glen Mhor. It was fascinating corridor that links existing woodland to understand more about the Partnering for the future lower down the Keltneyburn valley work that was carried out in 1774, With the help of volunteers, we with that on Schiehallion and and the challenges of detecting a monitor the key habitats and species Kynachan. microscopic change in the direction present on Schiehallion. This Each year, we also count the of a plumbline using only the stars. includes monitoring dwarf shrub number of male black grouse The observatory was located more heath, tree seedlings and limestone displaying on leks as part of the local than 700m up the mountain, with flushes on an annual basis, and black grouse study group. We’re the work taking place in a summer measuring tree transects every five delighted that this vulnerable species during which Maskelyne described is doing well, with one of the largest “the badness of the weather, which leks anywhere in Scotland on the was almost continually cloudy neighbouring Dun Coillich estate. or misty”, which made work very In a perfect example of local difficult. Perhaps not much has partnership, we continue to run changed after all. black grouse walks each spring – with the lek site on Dun Coillich, the viewing spot at Schiehallion, and expert interpretation provided by the RSPB. As well as black grouse, we also record a breeding bird transect,

r ap h: P ete C a ir ns /2020V I S ON Ph otog plus transects to monitor the Dr Liz Auty is the Trust’s East Black grouse at the lek mountain ringlet butterfly – an Schiehallion Property Manager.

14 | Land Report 2017 instatement to a suitably high standard. a decision to remove the access tracks in full and to supervise re- Line was built through other, from conservation to agriculture. The recent Beauly-Denny objectives, both parties are able to exert genuine influence on each and is based upon mutual respect of different management delivers deer management holistically across both units. adjoins the Trust ground on Schiehallion and partnership was established in 2011. important and sensitive part of the partnership – one that will continue to deliver great benefits in an an enhanced landscape in the foothills of Schiehallion. also identifying other areas where planting can take place to deliver planting some five hectares of ground as part of the plan but we are to deliver the tracks for forestry access purposes. been at play, then the estate may have sought to retain some of the Kynachan Estate Jeremy Robinson Schiehallion perspectives Nevertheless, cooperation extends well beyond deer management Mutual respect has been at the heart of this successful Most recently, the John Muir Trust since an informal K ynachan Estate has worked closely with H eart of Scotland Forest. Not only is K ynachan entered into a partnership with the Trust K ynachan Estate and the Trust influenced H ighlands.” K ynachan H ad mutual influence not K ynachan now with these unique family fun days”. have been able to create lasting memories for our young patients a daily basis. Thanks to our partnership with the John Muir Trust we wonderful day out. welcome ensured that all of the children and their families had a enthusiasm of the staff, the adventurous activities and the warm present, who have spent time in the ward. perfect location to gather with patients and families, both past and for Children is known as Schiehallion, so the iconic mountain was the Charity. The oncology unit at the in partnership with Glasgow Children’s Pictured: A family enjoying fine views at Schiehallion Glasgow Children’s Hospital Charity Kirsten Sinclair Schiehallion symbolises the mountain that our patients face on The support that we received from the Trust was wonderful; the special family fun days on Schiehallion The John Muir Trust has hosted two very R oyal H H ospital ospital johnmuirtrust.org |15

Photograph: Nicky McClure Glenlude, Scottish Borders

A rewilding journey Fast facts > Glenlude covers 149 hectares (368 acres) in the Scottish Five years in, we are now well down the Borders, on the edge of the road in our rewilding work at Glenlude, Southern Uplands > Over 6,000 trees have been explains Karen Purvis planted to date by volunteers > In 2016, over 570 people used and worked on the site, totaling over 600 volunteer days Surince o first official work Annual surveys party five years ago, Glenlude has Each year brings new learning at continued to go from strength to Glenlude. Our annual surveys of strength with a diverse range of fauna and flora continue to highlight area equipped with a fire pit and log groups now working with us to changes in the diversity of species benches, overnight bivouacs have rewild the hill. and habitat across the property. We become a firm favourite alongside In 2014, hardy volunteers levelled no longer have any grazing stock monthly visits by staff and service and built up a patch of ground apart from wild deer on site and this users. behind our hut and constructed has contributed to changes in the We also work closely with the a large poly-tunnel to serve as a habitat. Galashiels Focus project, a local tree nursery, plus outdoor staging Our second breeding bird survey branch of the UK-wide Tomorrow’s made from recycled pallets for the by local member John Savory (May- People charity that helps give young hardening off and growing on of June 2015) highlighted an increase people confidence and skills to gain seedlings. Three years down the of nearly 100% in bird numbers, with employment. Regular visitors, the line, we are now planting our first several new species spotted. We are charity has now adopted an area homegrown trees, with the seeds very hopeful that we now have black of Glenlude that they manage for having all being sourced locally. grouse and curlew nesting on the participants. Currently in year five of a 20-year open hill. This management of individual management plan, we continue to Other monitoring has highlighted areas by different groups has become restructure the plantations. Several an abundance of moths, plus several a real theme at Glenlude. The small coups have already been new discoveries of amphibians and Green Team, an Edinburgh-based felled, with the waste branches used reptiles in a basic survey of the four organisation that works with young to build three ‘mega’ brash hedges ponds on site, all of which have people to restore and conserve wild – the largest of which covers an proved to be in healthy condition. places, is another group that now area of 0.5ha – and several smaller manages its own corner of the site enclosures to protect the native trees Making a difference high up on the Glenlude Hill side planted within from browsing deer. As well as volunteers, our work with – an area known as Green Team Natural regeneration is also charities, local groups and the John Wildwood. occurring within the shelter of these Muir Award continues to be an It’s just another way in which we enclosures with blaeberry, greater important part of life at Glenlude. share a property that has already wood rush, bedstraw, tormentil and One example is Phoenix Futures, proved a fantastic asset for people birch seedlings all coming on well. a drug and alcohol rehabilitation from all walks of life. Out on the open hill, we continue charity that uses Recovery Through to plant each winter and are even Nature to aid service user recovery removing protection from some of from drug and alcohol problems. the first trees planted in 2012 as they As part of their programme, are now too high for deer to reach – a Phoenix Futures adopted a policy real milestone for our project. of planting a tree for every service In 2016, we secured a Postcode user who successfully completes a Lottery Grant to purchase a firewood treatment programme, but with the Karen Purvis is the Trust’s Glenlude processor and install secure nearest woodland site a long way Property Manager. storage – a used shipping container south in England, they were pushed disguised as a turf-roofed log cabin for time and resources. And so the with a wooden lean-to attached for Phoenix Forest was born at Glenlude, processed logs. The plan is to offer with more than 1,000 trees planted firewood for sale locally from the site in the area that Phoenix Futures on a small scale. now manages at Glenlude. With the

16 | Land Report 2017 Glenlude perspectives together.” with the John Muir Trust and look forward to our continued working organisation, we are very proud of the partnership we have developed working supports individuals in their recovery journeys. As an is a very powerful partnership that exemplifies how collaborative them more often. they love coming down and are always trying to persuade us to take problems. new people, take on new challenges and feel free from everyday areas that they currently work in. Scottish countryside rather than the suburban conservation tasks in a tranquil setting in the Phoenix Futures John Deeney The service users have adopted Glenlude as their second home; the opportunity to carry out practical Glenlude offers our service users I t is a very special place for everyone. To me, this I t’s a chance to explore, meet we like to call the Gala Wood.” come, along with the continuing addition of trees to the wood which society. We look forward to developing our relationship in the years to experiences, which help to move them towards a fulfilling role in experience for our young people, allowing them to gain positive Pictured: Volunteers plant saplings out on the open hill Borders Hub, Galashiels Focus project Tomorrow’s People Edinburgh and Mark Timmins Trust at Glenlude is an ever enriching Our partnership with the John Muir johnmuirtrust.org |17

Photograph: Karen Purvis John Muir Award

Awards during the year. A powerful tool > Ingrid & Chris Todd joined a Trust work party to repair damaged footpaths and beach clean as Across the UK, the John Muir Award is used by part of their self-guided Explorer Award. thousands of people to connect with and care for > Pupils from George Watson’s nature. Rob Bushby and Toby Clark highlight how College took part in a wild camp the Award was used on Trust properties in 2016 and beach clean. Skye > The University of Highlands ThJM e ohn uir Trust has long they took part in pond dipping, and Islands, Broadford Campus positioned itself as very much part invertebrate classification, and achieved 12 Explorer Awards of the communities on and around guided walks with the Highland through its Further Education our properties, with the John Muir Council Ranger Service, as well as Outdoor Adventure Unit. Award a particularly valuable tool creative work with local artists. for reaching people of all ages. > Comunn na Gàidhlig youth Li & Coire Dhorrcail In 2016, more than 2,500 people workers undertook a day-long (Knoydart Foundation) achieved their John Muir Award as John Muir Award training course. > Pupils and teachers from George part of direct involvement with Trust Watson’s College carried out a properties and partnerships. East Schiehallion beach clean. The reaction of trainee volunteer > Pupils from High School > Pupils from Inverie Primary rangers at the Nevis Landscape went on a guided walk and planted School achieved their Discovery Partnership is typical: “We feel native trees on the neighbouring Award working with the Knoydart volunteer involvement has increased Dun Coillich Trust estate. Foundation Ranger. community engagement in local > Pupils from George Watson’s conservation, and we hope this College took part in a guided walk Glenlude leaves a legacy.” and brash hedging. > Phoenix Futures, a respected We hope so too, not just at Nevis, drug and alcohol rehabilitation but across Trust properties where we Quinag (Coigach–Assynt service, established a ‘Phoenix work with many partners and local Living Landscape Forest’ partnership with the Trust, communities. Partnership) with more than 60 service users > For the fourth year running, pupils achieving their Award. Ben Nevis from Ullapool High School took > Following a 12-week employability > Seven volunteer rangers from a residential trip to the island of programme for young adults with the Nevis Landscape Partnership Tanera to work with Summer Isles Galashiels Works!, more than achieved their John Muir Award Enterprises Ltd and Highland 20 young people and three staff as part of their Nevis Training Ranger Service. Senior pupils achieved their Awards. Programme placement. also enrolled on an employability > Y oung people and volunteer leaders > Outward Bound Loch Eil worked programme, while S3 pupils on a on a Green Team Green Volunteers with Trust staff andH ighland broader outdoor learning course programme took part in woodland Rangers in and around Glen Nevis took part in the Award. management activities. throughout the year, delivering > Before stepping up to Ullapool High > Pupils from All Saints Primary 1,260 Awards. School, pupils from local feeder School Airdrie and parent helpers > George Watson’s College, primaries completed a three-month achieved their Explorer Award, Edinburgh took part in a Discovering Wild Places project which included a three-day wild residential trip that included with the Coigach-Assynt Living camp at Glenlude. practical footpath conservation Landscape Partnership. work as part of a wider outdoor > Pupils from George Watson’s learning expedition programme College took part in a day of that has used the Award for the conservation work with Caithness last 13 years. In 2016, 135 pupils and Sutherland Countryside achieved their Award, with Rangers. time spent across various Trust properties. Sandwood Bay Rob Bushby is the Trust’s John Muir > Pupils from Spean Bridge Primary > Long-standing Provider Ridgway Award Manager, while Toby Clark is School visited Glen Nevis where Adventure Ltd delivered 178 John Muir Award Scotland Manager

18 | Land Report 2017 Special projects

Work parties People power Meanwhile, the Trust’s conservation work parties remain as popular as ever. In 2016, we had 32 organised The Trust is fortunate to be able to call on an work parties, plus a wide range of volunteering by individuals and local army of volunteers, helpers and contractors members groups. to assist with footpath and conservation work, Work parties mostly take place on Trust properties, although visits write Chris Goodman and Sandy Maxwell were also made to partners such as CALLP, community-owned estates that the Trust is involved with, Th e apPOINTMENT of a on Skye every autumn and winter plus like-minded estates where dedicated footpath officer in 2012 since 2014. the Trust assists with conservation saw a step change in the Trust’s With the scale of the path work management. approach to managing footpaths. It increasing over the next two years, During 2016, we saw 659 days began with an audit of the more than the Trust has employed local path of volunteering provided by 150 120kms of footpaths on Trust land consultant Donald Mackenzie to different people across the main that helped identify, prioritise and project manage the work on Skye programme of work parties. It’s cost up the path work needed and and help develop opportunities an impressive figure that excludes provide a more strategic approach to for training and volunteering. The volunteering done by John Muir our work. project will focus on the paths from Award participants on Trust Since March 2012, we have Sligachan to Coruisk, and the route properties, and volunteers with local invested £374,000 on capital repairs up Mheadhonach in the groups away from our properties. and maintenance undertaken Red Cuillin. From path resurfacing and beach by contractors across a variety of Meanwhile, in Assynt, we are cleans at Sandwood and species properties. Around £320,000 of project managing a two-year monitoring at Nevis to removal of this has gone into contractor’s staff footpath restoration project on invasive species from places such wages, helping to support rural jobs Suilven. One of Britain’s most as Knoydart, Quinag and Corrour as well as providing trickle down majestic mountains, Suilven is Estate, teams of dedicated volunteers benefits for local economies. owned and managed by the Assynt continue to make an invaluable As home to more than half of the Foundation, a community land contribution to wild places. Trust’s path network, Skye is a major group with which the Trust works Tree planting and preparation focus. Here, the impact of boots on in partnership as part of the wider has been a particular theme of late, the ground and extremes of weather Coigach & Assynt Living Landscape with many days work carried out at mean that the paths that have evolved Partnership (CALLP). Glenlude nursery processing seeds, over the years are prone to erosion. We’ve been busy elsewhere too. pricking them out and weeding. At the time of our footpath audit, Nevis saw major repair work on the Between Glenlude and Li & Coire the worst cases of path erosion were path through Steall Gorge following Dhorrcail, we planted around 4,500 on Skye – especially on Blà Bheinn a massive rockfall in October native trees in 2016, while a further and Druim Hain which had become 2016, while we have committed to 10,000 trees were weeded around at metres-wide gullies of scree. We are substantial work on various sections our Knoydart property – also now now working our way through the of path at Quinag over the next five home to a tree nursery at Inbhir major repair work required, with years, again through the CALLP Dhorrcail. contract path repair teams in place Scheme. ll hi wn o Chris Goodman is the Trust’s Br Footpath Project Officer, while Sandy ames Maxwell is the Trust’s Volunteer h: J ap Coordinator. r otog Ph Footpath restoration

johnmuirtrust.org | 19 Conserving wild places

Photograph of the Trust’s Nevis Manager, Alison Austin, at Ben The John Muir Trust thanks Mountain Nevis taken by Lukasz Warzecha for Equipment for supporting our land team Mountain Equipment. out in the field as they work through all seasons to maintain mountain routes and expand wild habitats.