TRAVEL

All Wight now Feeling free! Our travel editor makes her escape to the island where spectacular vistas, starry starry nights and the hottest gardens have her singing its praises

WORDS: Helen Werin PHOTOGRAPHY: Robin Weaver

Walkers on the coastal path at Brighstone Bay

42 outandaboutlive.co.uk February 2021 February 2021 outandaboutlive.co.uk 43 Isle of Wight TRAVEL

Cowes

ME AND MY ’VAN here’s no doubt that we made the far easier, encouraged by the Slow Wight Wight choice (if you’ll pardon my pun). ethos (see panel) to linger longer over all the Osborne› House

T As ‘great’ distancers, brought about scenic beauty.

from living in a touristy area overrun with Living as far inland as we do, I love to be Quarr Abbey

› › Ryde

too many carefree (rather, careless) visitors by the sea. Palm trees dot the esplanade at › for our liking, we really need an ‘escape’. Ryde, where we leave Roly, our motorhome, › Nodes Point We yearn for what we usually seek on our in an almost-empty seafront car park. A Holiday Park tours: being able to see for miles from hill or couple of hardy swimmers are taking a dip

mountaintops, bracing coastal paths, quirky (I’m assured that Ryde has some of the Carisbrooke Castle Havenstreet/ › castles and quaint villages and to sit outside warmest waters in the UK). Isle of Wight Steam Railway Down and watch the stars sparkling in the clearest Leafy Appley Park forms our landward skies. Most of all we need space. On the Isle border. Seawards, we squint across at of Wight we certainly get that, with miles of Portsmouth’s soaring Spinnaker Tower, Compton Bay The Needles › › golden sands, outstanding sunsets and which we’re to spot from many different › Brighstone Helen Werin... Shorwell Lower Hyde

is MMM’s Travel Editor and dinosaur footprints, too… perspectives throughout our trip.

Grange Farm Holiday Park Shanklin Our hour-long Red Funnel ferry crossing It’s just minutes from our pitch at Nodes › always looking for a great › › escape, as long as it is not to is a breeze. Actually, it’s calm and the sun Point Holiday Park down to Priory Bay and a RIGHT Sunset at Brighstone somewhere flat! deck lives up to its name. With passenger seamark tower, all that’s left of the twelfth Bay; Godshill Downs

numbers limited, a one-way system in place, century St Helen’s Church. As the BELOW RIGHT The pretty

well-spaced outside seating (there are designated footpath through village of Godshill › Ventnor interior lounges, too) and staggered looks a bit slippery, we stay on the coastal disembarkation, it’s a relaxing start. path towards Ryde and arrive at Seagrove I admit to a slight twinge of melancholy Bay where the glistening Spinnaker as a Brittany Ferries vessel skims across the dominates our view again. horizon, but am recompensed with the Like all the campsites we are to stay on, thought that, whilst we won’t be walking the Nodes Point is surprisingly quiet. With a INFORMATION 2002 Roller Team Auto-Roller rest of the GR34 path around the coast of couple of facility blocks to choose from, we 41 on a Fiat 2.3-litre diesel northern France as we’d planned, we can get don’t encounter anyone else; though, in the TRAVEL engine. Roly’s cosy layout, with those Channel views from the ‘other side’ on mornings, the clip-clop of horses’ hooves visitisleofwight.co.uk overcab double bed, Pullman parts of Wight’s coastal path. As we sail from nearby stables accompanies our English Heritage has five dinette and generous locker smoothly across the Solent, I flip through all leisurely breakfasts. properties on the island space suits our family perfectly the walks we’ve earmarked (see panel). There’s a notice near the site entrance english-heritage.org.uk And – ta da! – we’re going to be meeting urging us to look out for pipistrelle bats. 12 locations to choose from up with one of our children whom we’ve not They elude us, but we do spot our first red nationaltrust.org.uk seen for over eight months. This daughter squirrel of the trip nearby (the island is an For accessibility information if should have been on safari, but she’s happy important stronghold for this fast- you have mobility difficulties that she can see at least see some lions after disappearing native species). euansguide.com all, albeit at the Isle of Wight Zoo at Heading to Havenstreet next morning, EATING OUT Yaverland. It’s beneath the cliffs where we’ve where we’re going to board the Isle of Wight The Edulis restaurant in been fossil-hunting with her sister on a Steam Railway, the speed signs depict red Ventnor Botanic Garden serves food as fresh as it previous visit. squirrels dressed as lollipop ladies or gets. Here, food is measured BELOW Yaverland Beach and With our younger daughter, our trips are pointing speed cameras; amusing, but they in food metres, not miles Culver Cliff, Sandown always ‘go, go, go’. This time we’re taking it do carry a serious message. ➤ botanic.co.uk/eat-drink You’re spoilt for choice with incredible flavours, including 266 our daughter’s favourite garlic THE JOURNEY miles mayo from The Garlic Farm at In October, we took a return Red Funnel crossing from Newchurch... Southampton to East Cowes to spend 10 nights on the island. Our thegarlicfarm.co.uk costs include the ferry and fuel and attractions on the island only ...and deliciously moreish cheese curds from the Brixton THE COSTS and Badger Creamery... Fuel Average 30mpg...... £53.85 brixtonandbadger.co.uk Ferry Red Funnel – Southampton-East Cowes………...... £134.54 ...to Tipsy Wight liqueurs with Site fees...... £154 flavours sourced from the Attractions Two adults: Isle of Wight Steam Railway island (sold at the English and Ventnor Botanic Garden...... £46 Heritage sites) Parking Ryde, Landslip, Compton Bay, Brighstone Village Shop, near Sandown, The Needles...... £17 Grange Farm, sells a good As English Heritage members we got free entry into Osborne House variety of local produce, and Carisbrooke Castle including meats, sausages and bakery items Total costs...... £405.39 brighstonevillage shop.co.uk

44 outandaboutlive.co.uk February 2021 February 2021 outandaboutlive.co.uk 45 Isle of Wight TRAVEL

TOP TIPS The soothing clickety-clack of the train Usually the National Trust offers tours; takes the strain of the last few months away. unfortunately, not at present. For ’vans up to 6m long and If ever a tourist attraction was designed for The island has a good bus service, a rail 2.699m high, Red Funnel social distancing, this heritage railway is it. line down the east side and such a dense offers touring packages from £99 (for three nights with Every carriage has individual network of footpaths and cycle routes that electric) at one of four sites, compartments, strictly for only one you could explore almost every inch of it by including crossing. Ferries run household group, and I can’t resist telling bike, on foot or using public transport. In all year, about every hour you how chuffed I am that we’re here on this current circumstances, we prefer to use our March – October and every delightful island as we unwind on the own ‘hotel on wheels’ so have booked two 1½ hours November – February 10-mile round trip. other sites from which to explore. Ventnor Downs redfunnel.co.uk We drive to Sandown to wander along the The touring area at Lower Hyde, with its prom. The late afternoon light shines like a rural outlook, is raised above the rest of the The Isle of Wight council WALK THIS WAY torch beam on the white face of Culver Cliff. holiday park so feels separate and it has its publishes a list of car parks There are more than 500 miles of rights of way, suitable for motorhomes We try, but fail, to spot fossils on own reception and facilities. It’s about 15 permissive paths and bridleways. We enjoyed iow.gov.uk/azservices/ Yaverland Beach (it’s helpful to go with an minutes’ walk to the much-photographed picking up parts of the 68-mile- long coastal documents/1905-22.11.18- expert from nearby Dinosaur Isle as we did thatched cottages in Shanklin Old Village. path. A ‘donate a gate’ has replaced many stiles Motorhome-Parking-v1.pdf on our last visit). No worries, we’re We’re headed for more history at (over 200 at the last count). Although dogs aren’t allowed confident of success later in our holiday. Carisbrooke Castle 20 minutes’ drive away. An easy stroll is through the tranquil woods on the main resort beaches This is the ‘dinosaur isle’ after all. Yet again, because of restricted visitor of Estate (from the free National from 1 May – 31 October, Parking next to our daughter on numbers and an online booking system, we Trust car park) to The Long Stone, the remains there are small coves and Bembridge and Culver Downs, we jump even feel confidently spaced enough to walk shorelines that do allow dogs of a 6,000-year-old Neolithic burial place, or all year. Dogs are free on all away when she gets out of her car. atop its 750-year-old walls. you can combine it with the Warrior Trail, a Red Funnel ferries and have a Walking on the downs (well apart) is even As I peer over the castle interior and the six-mile round walk that follows much of the designated lounge with water more uplifting than ever because of her chapel of St Nicholas – with its seventeenth exercise route of WWI ‘hero’, Warrior, aka the and complimentary dog much-missed company. I love being able to century organ and wooden pews made from ‘horse the Germans could not kill’. You can walk biscuits. Dogs do not need to see for miles and, with even more of these one of the last wooden warships – the parts – or all 19 miles – of The Yar River Trail. be pre-booked or have a Walks on Culver Down, and ticket. Buses and trains also high, expansive, beauty spots on our unmistakable bray of a donkey breaks my allow dogs, free of charge horizons I’m in my element. From way above reverie. Donkeys have been here since 1696, , with their spectacular views, visitisleofwight.co.uk/ Culver Cliff we look down to Yaverland, working the treadwheel in a little 1580s were particular favourites. At Egypt Point, the explore/holidays/dog- Sandown, Shanklin and beyond, then north stone building to draw buckets from the focus is on the Solent, which has the most friendly-ideas across Bembridge Harbour to Nodes Point water supply below (the donkeys still work, concentrated number of historic coastal defences in the UK. Guests at Lower Hyde Holiday and that Spinnaker Tower again. but only for a few minutes a day raising an Download a variety of walks, including each Park can also use all the I’m intrigued by the mounds under the empty bucket). facilities at its close-by sister section of the coastal path visitisleofwight. park, Landguard grassy ridge that mark a network of storage Exploring Carisbrooke Castle and, on co.uk/things-to-do/walking bunkers for Culver Battery, one of the another day, the extensive parkland and island’s WWI and II defences. Nodes Point gardens of Queen Victoria’s grand Italianate Holiday Park is built on the site of another private getaway, Osborne House, lifts our TAKE IT EASY The Slow Wight Travel Guide has eight routes BELOW LEFT Princess such battery. spirits. We can see places of interest without showing lesser-known places of interest, all with Beatrice Garden inside As we return to the Sandown Road, we getting wound up about the proximity of fascinating stories to tell and encouraging Carisbrooke Castle stop to circuit the large Bembridge Fort, others. Quarr Abbey (free) is a particular A couple enjoying the sunset at Ventnor visitors to ‘get under the skin’ of the island. BELOW RIGHT Isle of Wight originally built to counter the threat of joy, the woodland so pretty and peaceful slowwighttravelguide.co.uk Steam Railway French invasion. My curiosity is aroused. with red squirrels darting about (it’s ➤ BESIDE THE SEASIDE Ryde beaches have the warmest bathing waters. Freshwater Bay is one of the most picturesque and Sandown Bay has miles of soft sand and a pier with views across Totland Bay’s turquoise waters to the mainland. , with its beach huts and cafés, looks to Hurst Castle. Ventnor is very noticeably the warmest place on the island. Sitting near the Winter Gardens’ Art Deco pavilion, above the Cascade Gardens and tiny harbour, is another great sunset spot.

I CAN SEE FOR MILES Above Alum Bay (park at The Needles) we could see across the west of the island and to Lymington, with the Tennyson monument ahead of us in the other direction. From the headland’s tip, above the Needles Old Battery and New Alum Bay Battery, we had a great view of the chalk stacks.

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WE STAYED AT Nodes Point Holiday Park, Eddington Road, St Helens, Ryde PO33 1YA ☎ 03301 234850 parkdeanresorts.co.uk/ location/isle-of-wight/nodes-point  19 March – 31 October £ Two adults, pitch and electric: From £8.28 (depending upon number of nights) Lower Hyde Holiday Park, Landguard Road, Shanklin PO37 7LL ☎ 03301 234850 parkdeanresorts.co.uk/ location/isle-of-wight/lower-hyde  19 March – 1 November £ Two adults, pitch and electric: From £9 (depending upon number of nights) Grange Farm, Brighstone Bay, Military Road, Brighstone PO30 4DA ☎ 01983 740296 grangefarmcamping.co.uk  1 March – 1 November £ Two adults, pitch and electric: From £23

known as one of the best places to see them). At Bonchurch Landslip, tiny paths and Chocolate-box scenes of thatched narrow fissures through rock (which we cottages with roses around their doors bypass) and steps in places twist this way abound: Godshill, and Old and that through a lovely, heavily wooded Shanklin being the most famous places. area. On a couple of occasions I have my As we arrive at our third site, Grange face squashed against bushes in my efforts Farm, right above sandy Brighstone Bay, to avoid other walkers, though we see more we’re treated to the most brilliant sunset, a red squirrels than people. wonder that’s repeated evening after That’s the reason why I enjoy being high evening, along with the starriest of night above the coast or up on the downs: for the skies (there is very little light pollution on pure, exhilarating, sense of freedom it much of the island). brings. St Boniface Down may be the In the morning we wake to sparkling light highest point on the island in the factual highlighting the chalk cliffs of Freshwater sense – and with sensational views – but Bay further west. Grange Farm is such a every one of the downs has upped my mood. great site, with one main facility block, plus The walking has been superb, the two small toilets-only blocks, lots of water campsites perfect and I haven’t had to leap points and loads of space, making it easy for off pavements to avoid thoughtless cyclists, us to avoid anyone else. joggers or groups of tourists. Remains of fence posts that once Our daughter has gone home happy and bordered the adjacent coastal path, now refreshed, too. What a great decision we teeter on the cliff edge, making us very made by coming here. aware of erosion. Fittingly, our last day is one of the best. The force of nature really hits home Closing my eyes and breathing in the scent during our quest for dinosaur footprints at of the thousands of sub-tropical plants at Compton Bay. Once a helpful local shows Ventnor Botanic Garden, with the photographer, Robin, what to look for, I find comforting warmth of bright sunshine on about 10 fossilised prints of what look like my face, is sublime. The gardens are those of giant chicken feet. I have one wary eye on a former Victorian chest and respiratory the cliff and another looking out for fossils. disease hospital where patients would come ABOVE Osborne House; Minutes later, Robin yells as a hail of rocks to be treated and recuperate in the oh-so- Helen finds a dinosaur plunges onto the sand. It’s frightening to see pleasant coastal climate. We’ve certainly footprint fossil at the size of the fallen boulders where we, and been ‘treated’ by the Isle of Wight; it’s been Compton Bay others, had been standing. just the cure for my Covid blues.

This feature was written between coronavirus lockdowns. We are publishing it for your enjoyment and to help you plan future trips. Readers must follow the latest government advice before leaving their homes gov.uk/coronavirus

48 outandaboutlive.co.uk February 2021