Baptist Youth Fellowship 1955 European Tour July 5 to August 20

July 31, 1955: Baptist Youth Fellowship Tour with their hosts in Cologne, Germany

First draft written by Jerry Abbott in 1955 and edited in 2014 Jerry is on left in the first row of picture.

.How did I become part of student tour traveling to Europe?

Joyce Parr, President of the Baptist Youth Fellowship (BYF), was a colleague of mine on the William Jewell College Debate Team. Her organization had planned a trip to the Baptist World Alliance Jubilee Congress in London for its national and state officers. The group was to tour Europe following the Congress. Although I was not a member of the BYF, Joyce invited me to participate as a guest. I am standing on the left in this photo of the debate team. To my left are Mary Jo Smith, Dr. Murray Hunt (faculty advisor), Joyce Parr, and Richard Byrne. It is interesting to note that each of these members of the debate team earned their PhDs after graduating from William Jewell.

The beginning of the tour include participation in the Baptist World Alliance Jubilee Congress held in Royal Albert Hall in London July 16 to 22, 1955.

Why am I preparing this album? Its purpose is to help my grandkids understand an important part of American history. The trip was only ten years after the end of World War II. Most of the debris of World War II had been cleaned up, and the reconstruction of Europe was clearly evident. The trip enabled me to talk to many people who had experienced the horrors of the war and were in the midst of helping to rebuild of their countries. Physical reconstruction and the healing of Wilhelm Keitel surrendering minds and bodies was well under way. One of my hosts in Germany to the Allies in Berlin had been a prisoner of war in England. Others had been youth leaders whose leadership was challenged by the attitudes of “Hitler’s Youth.” Many of these kids had been victimized by cruelty and suffering that impacted both sides of the conflict. One of the leaders reported his greatest challenge was to help kids “become kids again.”

One of the memorable moments of the tour came while sitting in the sanctuary of St. Michel’s Cathedral in Hamburg, Germany. As I listened to one of the speakers, I looked to my left to see a wall plaque that was similar to plaques on the walls of my churches at home. It included the names of dozens of German young men. Although I had not yet studied German, it was clear that the plaque was dedicated to those who had lost their lives in the war. I was emotionally stunned to realize that while I was praying for American soldiers in The First Baptist Church of Enid, Oklahoma during the war, German Christians were sitting in the same pew in St. Michel’s. They were praying for their sons and brothers. I took this picture of the St. Michel’s Spire that same day. My European tour was fun and informative. More important, it was an important part of my growing up to assume the responsibilities adult, parent, and colleague. 2

How was this written?

I took the calendar book on the left with me to take daily notes during the trip. When I returned home I used the calendar book as a source document to record my memories of the trip on a legal-sized yellow tablet (see photo on right).

I sat down at my computer in September 2014 to write this photo album. This photo shows what my desk looked like while I was reviewing the notes in the yellow tablet and editing them for inclusion in the family history. The notes are on the left of my Dell Inspiron 15R Laptop Computer. The source calendar is on the pullout platform below the computer.

The Adventure Begins: July 5, 1955

“Fasten your safety belts, please.” My nodding head snapped from a dozing position to an erect and alert position after a sleepless night. It was not unusual for me to have trouble sleeping the night before a family vacation; however, the anticipation of a trip to Europe had made it even more difficult to sleep. Visions of the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace, the sights of Tivoli in Copenhagen, the music and sights of a romantic gondola rides on the Grand Canal of Venice, and the beautiful mountains and valleys of the Swiss Alps bounced around in my head. Shortly after taking my seat on the 7:10 a.m. TWA flight to Washington D.C., fatigue overcame my excitement and produced a few restful moments before the flight attendant’s instructions awakened me. I was about to start one of the finest and most enjoyable trips of my life. Looking back, I realize that in addition to learning about European geography and culture, I had learned about leadership when I was assigned to lead five of the students on a side trip to Venice. I also gained understanding as I listened to leaders who had to deal with the conflict and horrors of the war.

Our plane stopped in Chicago where I made a hurried phone call to my parents who were at a Dale Carnegie convention there. “I love you…goodbye” and a chocolate milk shake later, I was on my way to Washington D.C. This picture was taken in the early 1950s in the living room of my parents’ home at Valley View Farm in Kansas City.

My parents

Although we weren’t to cross the Atlantic from New York to London until July 10, I wanted to spend some time with a good friend in Washington D. C. before going on to New York City. In addition to seeing my friend Harve, I wanted to see some of the attractions of our nation’s capital. Harve worked for the Associated Press (AP) in DC. It may be surprising that I decided to include so much information about Harve in this album. He was truly a remarkable person who had a significant influence on my life. He later earned his Ph.D. in psychology and became the Provost at Antioch College in Ohio. He and his wife, Joyce, traveled the world extensively. Harve wrote many books based on his travels in addition to Harve Rawson writing many academic papers and books. He also wrote a book about the history of Webb City, Missouri. I was born in Webb City, and lived there from 1945 to 1948. Friends have been very important for me. Four of my closest friends at William Jewell earned their doctorates. Of my two best friends in grade school and middle school, one (Harve) earned his Ph.D. and the other earned his doctorate in theology and became a “Little All American” at what later became the University of Central Oklahoma. In another part of the Abbott Family History, I wrote about how certain professors and friends played significant roles in my pursuit and achievement of a Ph.D. In writing about Harve and other friends and colleagues, I want to recognize and salute the role good friends played in my life.

Harve’s parents were good friend of my parents, and Harve had been a constant companion whenever our family visited my grandparents in Webb City, Missouri. Our friendship became even closer when we were neighbors on Madison Street, and attended the same schools in the sixth, seventh, and eighth grades. The Abbott family lived at 820 South Madison. My grandparents lived at 310 S. Madison. Harve’s family lived midway between our home and my grandparents’ home. Grandparent’s home at 310 S. Madison

My grandfather, Seth Thomas, was a barber and owned the OK Barbershop in Webb City. Although he had only an eighth grade education, he taught in the local school on occasion and was director of the choir at the First Baptist Church in Webb City. While serving as choir director, he wrote several hymns.

Seth Thomas My grandmother, Daisy Thomas, passed away in 1945. She suffered from arthritis and was unable to do such things as put on her stockings. When we visited her I took great pride in helping her with her stockings. After she passed away, our family moved to Webb City in order for my mother to care for my grandfather. Seth Thomas lived in our home during his last years.

Daisy Thomas

This was our Webb City home. This picture was taken in 2004 when we returned to Webb City to see friends. I was surprised to see that the address had been changed to 720 South Madison. We lived in this home from 1945 to 1948. My grandfather died in 1948.

Abbott family home in 2004 820 S. Madison Harve was waiting for me when our plane arrived in Washington. Online photo That night he fixed a superb dinner for me and his two roommates. The picture of Harve above was cropped from a photo taken during dinner. After dinner we enjoyed an outdoor concert by the U. S. Online photo Army Concert Band at Watergate Park. During our walk home, we walked by the Lincoln Memorial, Washington Monument, White House, Lafayette Square, and the Treasury Building. It is impressive to walk by these structures at any time, but the walk was spectacular on a moonlit night.

July 6, 1955: First Day of Sightseeing in Washington DC

The morning started with a haircut in the Supreme Court Barber Shop. The guide for our tour was black, and it was interesting to hear the questions asked by the foreigners in our group. They wanted to know more about the substance of our constitution, its importance in American life, and the power of the Supreme Court in the democratic process. As I walked through the Supreme Court Building, I was impressed with its structure. The marble used throughout the building was symbolic of the strength and influence of the men who interpret and breathe life into the constitution as a “living document.” [NOTE: When I wrote this paragraph in 1955, I referred only to the “men” of the Supreme Court. Today, I would write “men and women.”

I next walked to the Library of Congress. It is considered by some to be the largest and most international library in the world. When I edited this document in 2014, I read in Wikipedia that there are more than 32 million cataloged books and other print materials, more than 61 million manuscripts, and the largest rare book collection in North America. On display are the Gutenberg Bible and a rough draft Gutenberg Bible of the Declaration of Independence.

When I toured the library in 1955, there was a special display honoring U Nu of Burma. He was a leading Burmese nationalist and political figure, and became Prime Minister of Burma in January 1948. [The photo of U Nu was copied from Wikipedia in 2014.] U Nu was in the United States in 1955 for a diplomatic visit.

U Nu

As noontime approached, there was just enough time to stop at the office of my Congressman, Richard Bolling, for House and Senate passes. I must say I was disappointed at what I saw from the gallery of the House of Representatives. Chaos erupted simultaneously with the “amen” of the opening prayer: “Lord, help us not to legislate by law alone.” Cameras flashing and clicking, multiple Congressmen conversing, and people moving aimlessly about made it appear that no one was listening to the reading of the minutes. The legislative discussion that Richard Bolling followed was similar. Few representatives seemed interested in the speeches from the dais. The frequent banging of the Speaker’s gavel seemed to bring only brief pauses to the turmoil on the floor. I could only hear parts of what the gentlemen from Illinois was saying as he seemed to be talking about the need for organized control of the waters of Lake Michigan.

Before moving on to the Senate, I took this photo of the capitol with a 3-D camera. It was particularly beautiful in 3-D. The proceedings of the Senate were more formal than the Congress. The scattering of Senators present showed minimal interest in a discussion of the “Geneva Convention.” The United States had signed the Geneva Convention in 1949 and the discussion concerned its ratification1955. Some of the Senators had reservations about the use of capital punishment in certain cases and wanted to withhold the first part of the Geneva Protocol because it appeared to legitimize terrorist groups such as the PLO. I wrote in my notes that some American companies were concerned with protecting their right to use the International Red Cross symbol as a trademark for their firms. After a few minutes I headed for the Senate Snack Bar for a snack. The photo of the Senate is an online photo. Online photo

The rest of the afternoon involved a series of cursory glances as I hurried through the halls of the National Gallery of Art on my way to the FBI building and, the National Archives. The National Gallery of Art was established in 1937 by joint resolution of the United States. Initial holdings included an art collection of Andrew W. Mellon, who also National Gallery of Art donated funds for construction. The core collection of the Gallery included art donated by many collectors. The collection included the

only painting by Leonardo da Vinci in the United States. Had I done my homework before visiting the Gallery, I probably would have spent more time there. I was only twenty years old, and my taste for art had not matured. This is not the FBI Headquarters I visited in 1955. It replaced the one I visited in 1955. The construction of the new building has been the discussion of considerable controversy. Critics argue the site selection process was largely driven by factors unrelated to organizational efficiency. The headquarters I visited in 1955 was in the Department of Justice Building. This had been the headquarters of the FBI since 1937. I do not remember much about my visit, except that I enjoyed the exhibits and demonstrations. I also remember the clear efforts of our FBI Headquarters (Online photo) guides to let us know how great J. Edgar Hoover was.

What captured my interest at the National Archives were the exhibits of the Declaration of Independence, the Constitution, and the Bill of Rights. I don’t remember seeing it, but the Archives also hosts and original version of the 1297 Magna Carta. Other historical documents housed in the Archives are the Louisiana Purchase Treaty and the Emancipation Proclamation. I think Lindsay and Logan have already been to the Archives, but I am not sure about Jason, Patrick, Michael, The National Archives Matthew, and Peyton. I hope each of them will have the opportunity (Online photo) to visit this and the other attractions of Washington D.C. What I remember most about my visit was that when I was standing by documents like the Bill of Rights, I felt I was standing on hallowed ground.

My next stop was the Smithsonian. The following description from its web site describes what it offers:

The Smithsonian is a repository of America’s history, achievements, aspirations, and identity. It holds the artifacts of great leaders, and those of ordinary Americans. It houses scientific specimens and technological wonders. It is home to art, music, films, writings—a vast treasure trove of objects of extraordinary beauty and outstanding design. With a collection of some 137 million items in more than two dozen museums and research centers, the Smithsonian brings our national epic to life as nothing else can.

I wanted to spend more time at the Smithsonian, and returned the next day after visiting the White House. I don’t think you could ever have enough time to exhaust its opportunities. As I edit this document in 2014 it is difficult to separate the memories of July 6, 1955 from visits in later years. Online photos When I think about my visits, my first recollection is Lindbergh’s “Spirit of St. Louis.” The second is a space capsule that is one of artifacts of the U. S. space program. I doubt that any of the space objects were on exhibit when I was there in 1955.

After visiting the Smithsonian I walked by the Washington Monument on my way to see Harve Rawson at the Associated Press. My feet were aching and I was ready to sit down and tell Harve about my day. I found Harve in a large room filled with people and desks. Harve was seated at a teletype machine that was one of many such machines that filled the room with clatter. I am not sure what Harve was doing. It appeared he was typing. Paper rolled continuously out of his machine as he typed. Reporters Online photo walked by and tore pages from the teletype as Harve continued to type. It is possible that Harve was entering news stories being sent to reporters all across the country, and the local reporters were grabbing the documents for local publishing. I frankly do not know what was going on except to say the scene was chaotic and fascinating.

That evening we went to see “The Seven Little Foys” after pizza at Caruso’s Italian Restaurant. The film premiered in 1955 and starred Bob Hope, Milly Vitale, and George Tobias. The movie tells the story of how Eddie Foy incorporated his seven children in a vaudeville act after his young wife passed away. I don’t remember much about the story, but do remember the good humor and great dancing of the movie. Now at the age of eighty I marvel at the energy I had when I was only twenty. If I were to do the same thing today that I did on July 6, 1955; I probably would have a relaxing dinner and go immediately to bed. What a shame it is that so much of our energy was used up when we were young…just kidding!

July 7, 1955: Day Two in Washington DC

The day started with a visit to the White House. The line to the White House was long. I wrote in my notes that Ike could be re-elected by the number of people who took the tour with me. Unfortunately, I didn’t write many details about my White House visit. My notes did say I was fascinated with the “historic green, gold, charcoal, and pink rooms.” I have no memory of these room, and was unable to find any reference to them when I did a “Google Search.”

When the White House tour was over, I returned to the Smithsonian. In particular, I wanted to see the Lindbergh “Spirit of St. Louis.” My notes indicated I also saw models of early automobiles, gowns of our President’s “First Ladies,” exhibits featuring early to modern steamships, and other Online photo famous relics of “yesteryear.”

July 8, 1955: Day Three in Washington DC

July 8 was a cool, damp and overcast day, which added to the solemn atmosphere of our early visit to the Arlington National Cemetery. Shortly after we entered the cemetery we stopped to pay our respects as an honor guard in neatly pressed uniforms fired their weapons in salute to a fallen comrade. This added to the reverence of our experience as we continued farther down one of the rolling hills of Arlington.

Our first planned stop was the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, where we had the good fortune to witness the changing of the guard.

Online photo

Our next stop was to be the Robert E. Lee Memorial that was once the home of Confederate General Robert E. Lee. The home overlooks the Potomac River. When it was selected as the site of Arlington National Cemetery, the intention was to ensure that General Lee would not be able to return to his home. Over time, sentiments changed, and the mansion was designated as a National Memorial to Robert E. Lee. Just before we arrived at the Lee mansion, we were blocked by a horse-drawn cart and casket. Leading the funeral procession was a navy band.

In case you were wondering, I am the one leaning against the monument to the right of the mansion. There was a panoramic view of Washington D. C. from the Lee Mansion, including most its points of interest.

Perhaps the most impressive thing we saw at the Arlington National Cemetery was the Iwo Jima Memorial that featured five marines and a Navy corpsman who raised a flag on Mount Surabachi. President Dwight D. Eisenhower had dedicated the Memorial the previous year on November 10, 1954. The location and date of every major United States Marine Corps engagement up to the present had been inscribed around the base of the memorial. Harve Rawson is standing in the foreground.

Later in the day, I took a bus to New York City, where I spent the night at the William Sloane House, Y.M.C.A on 34th Street. The “Sloane House” was the largest YMCA building in the United States.

July 9, 1955: Sightseeing in Manhattan

By the time I awakened on July 9, it was clear that my European holiday was going to be much more than a vacation. It was going to be an important complement to my education. Yes, I had heard of the United Nations. I knew something about world history, and I had some sense of the geography of outside the states of Missouri, Kansas, and Oklahoma. Today opened my eyes to the potential of learning in unexpected venues. Today my schools were the United Nations, Horn and Hadart’s Automat, an unconventional movie theatre featuring a Cinerama movie, and Greenwich Village. When Dorothy arrived in Oz with her dog, Toto, she looked around and was awed by its beauty and splendor. She said, “Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore.” I had arrived in New York and I realized I wasn’t in Kansas anymore.

Walking through the UN Headquarters, left a deep impression on me. I felt privileged to stand on international ground. This was the only place within the territorial limits of the United States where our flag stands side by side with the flags of the other members of the United Nations. The online photo on the left shows Dag Hammarskjold, who was Secretary General of the UN in 1955. He served from 1953 to 1961 when he died in a plane crash en route to negotiate a cease fire in Northern Rhodesia. U. S. President John Kennedy called him the “greatest statesman of our century.” Dag Hammarskjöld UN headquarters

At this point you may be wondering how a Horn and Hadart could have been an educational venue for me. Lunch time at the Automat introduced me to a culture I had never encountered. For a moment, visualize the hustle and bustle you have seen or viewed in movies or on TV of New Yorkers on subways or in the streets of Manhattan. Imagine this scene in the context of a confined space filled with people rushing to have their lunch and return to work. Online photo Unlike my cafeteria experiences in Kansas City, there was no orderly line of people calmly selecting their entrees from the cafeteria line. It was a madhouse of ravenous eaters forcing their way in to open small windows to remove their selection of the food that rested behind the windows. In the original automats, the windows were opened by inserting nickels provided by a cashier who sat in a change booth in the center of the restaurant. My memory has been dimmed by the passing of almost sixty years; however, I believe I purchased tokens that I used to open the glass windows. Before this experience, I had avoided the rush of commuters on the subways at the rush hour, so this was my first experience of competing with seasoned New York veterans of the Automat technology. For the first time in my life I was experiencing the crushing of humanity in the context of too many people in too little space.

After lunch my education continued when I went to a movie theatre to see “Cinerama Holiday.” This was not my first experience with Cinerama. I had previously seen “This is Cinerama.” The photographic system used for Cinerama movies used three interlocked cameras that photographed one third of the picture by shooting in a cross-cross pattern. The camera on the right shot the left part of the scene being recorded. The camera on the left shot the right part of the scene. The middle camera captured the middle part of the scene. This technology enabled the cameras to capture 146 degrees of arc, which is very close to the human field of vision, including peripheral vision. The movie theatre where Cinerama films were shown used three projectors Online photo that were arranged in the same crisscross pattern of the cameras. They projected their images into a deeply curved screen. I remember seeing the seams where the three sets of images came together, but this didn’t distract from my enjoyment of the film. The technology evolved into projection systems that used only one camera and one projector like “Todd-AO.” This technology was developed by Mike Todd, a Broadway producer. He developed a high definition single camera widescreen process to compete with Cinerama.

Unless you have experienced 146 degrees of visual arc, it will hard to explain the effect. All I can say is that when the scene featured the view of a person riding in a roller coaster, or a passenger in a plane flying and turning through a canyon, I felt sensations very much like those I felt when I actually rode a roller coaster or made a sharp banking turn in a Cessna 150. In “This is Cinerama,” the movie opens with Rockaway Playland Roller Coaster; and continues with the Temple Dance from ‘Aida,” views of Niagara Falls, the Long Island Choir, the Canals of Venice, the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, a bullfight and musical performance in Spain, Act II finale of ‘Aida’ at La Scala Opera House in Milan, and Cypress Gardens (Florida) water skiing scenes. The second half of the movie was filmed from the nose of a low flying B-25 plane. Cinerama produced for me an experience that left more vivid impressions on me than those of the times when I actually when I actually observed a Military Tattoo in Edinburg and a presentation of Aida in Rome. 11

I saw “Cinerama Holiday” in the afternoon after visiting the UN and having lunch at the Automat. The film shows an American couple traveling in Europe and a European couple traveling in the United States. Like its Cinerama predecessor, “Cinerama Holiday” featured spectacular scenery, and rapid movement and turns. When the European couple experienced the sensation of a point-of-view landing on an Aircraft carrier, I felt the sensations I might have felt Online photo had I been at their side. When the American couple took their bobsled ride, I once again experienced the sensation of not “being in Kansas.” Like the European couple, I learned something about the United States and its geography. Like the U. S. couple, I experienced things I had never experienced living in the U.S.

After the “Cinerama Holiday,” I went to the orientation for our European Tour at the Judson Memorial Church. The church had been founded in 1890 by Edward Judson as a memorial to his father, Adoniram Judson, who was the first American Protestant foreign missionary. The church was dually affiliated with the American Baptist Convention and the United Church of Christ. I did not know then, but when I did the editing in 2014 I learned that the church had been backed by John D. Rockefeller. I was a bit nervous as I entered the church. The only person I knew in the tour group was my friend, Joyce Parr. I was one of the last ones to arrive, and when I entered the church the group was singing. The song leader was Ike Strain. When the music ended, an imposing six-foot figure stood and introduced himself as Forest Fordham. Forest was the Director of the Baptist Youth Fellowship that sponsored our tour. I had made my Online photo arrangements for the tour through him. Forest told us that we were to be Christian Ambassadors of good will as members of the tour. After a review of the important details of our tour, the orientation ended with a discussion of the work of the Judson Memorial Church with juvenile delinquents of New York City.

Following the orientation we walked through the streets of Greenwich Village. It is an understatement to say “You aren’t in Kansas anymore.” In my notes I had written, “You haven’t seen anything until you have seen Greenwich Village on a Saturday night.” It is known as an artist’s haven, and is referred to by the locals as “the Village.” I saw people elegantly dressed, girls dressed like fellows, boys in hoods, artists, and “bums.” You are likely to see almost any type of humanity. I had heard about Greenwich Online photo Village for many years…probably through references in movies, but I was not prepared to “experience it.” Looking back, I consider my walk through the “Village” as one of my more “educational experiences.”

July 10, 1955: Flight to London

I went to Sunday services at the Marble Collegiate Church. Its pastor was Dr. Norman Vincent Peale, noted author of The Power of Positive Thinking. Lucille Ball married her second husband, Gary Morton, in this church. I had taken a cab from the YMCA to the Prince George Hotel, and walked from there to the church. The church was organized in 1628 and is the oldest Protestant denomination with a continuous ministry. It also has the distinction of being the first corporation in the United States. The cornerstone of the current structure was laid in 1851, and the church was dedicated in 1854.

After church I returned to the Automat for lunch before going back to the Prince George Hotel. This is where we met prior to going to Idlewild Airport for our 4 p.m. Transocean Airlines charter flight to London.

My seat companion for the flight was Bob Washer. Two rows in front of me were Marion Pember and Jackie Lowe. Directly in front of me were Phil Cline and Keith Davis. Across the aisle was Jeanne Wolfe. I am not sure where we are in this photo.

Our first few hours in flight seemed like only a few minutes as the time was filled with singing and laughing until many of us dozed off. Marion Pember, who was two rows in front of me is the one peeking out from behind the seat on the left. Looking at him is Joyce Parr. Across the aisle are Ike Strain and B. J. Carpman.

We landed at Gander, Newfoundland at 10 p.m. Mechanical problems delayed us several hours, which gave us time to wander around from group to group to get acquainted. Some had worked with others on the flight; however, for me and many others most of the tour members were strangers. I learned that some of the group thought I was Catholic. They knew I was a guest, but mistook an emblem I wore on my lapel as a Catholic emblem. I had Online photo received the lapel pin when I was a Camp Counselor for the American Youth Foundation at Camp Miniwanca in Michigan.

We re-boarded our plane at 1 p.m. I was tired enough to be able to fall asleep. When I awakened at dawn, I could see a sunny view of Ireland below. We landed at Shannon for refueling. The men’s room attendant spoke Gaelic and sounded very much like Barry Fitzgerald. Unless you are of my generation, you probably don’t remember who he was. He was an Irish actor who often played the role of an Irish Priest. I tipped the attendant and decided to shave in anticipation of arrival in London later that morning. The continuation of our flight to London took us over Wales and western England. The distinguishing characteristics of the countryside were the dark green hedges that divided up the lighter-shaded countryside.

July 11, 1955: Arrival in London

Bill Hammond, our tour guide, met us at the London Airport. Clearing customs took a surprisingly short time and soon we were on our way in the “Cream Coaches” provided for our travel in England.

We stopped for lunch on our way to our hotel at a small English café. We CLOSED hadn’t been inside five minutes when the proprietor put a “Closed” sign in the window. Apparently our group of hungry Americans had eaten him out of house and home. When we went to pay for our lunch, we had our first experience with a foreign currency. If it weren’t for Stan and John, our amiable bus drivers, I don’t know what we would have done. On several occasions during the trip I took a bunch of coins from my pocket and placed them in the palm of my hand. “Here,” I said to the clerk “You take what you want,” and let the clerk pick up the coins and then made change. I was not very fond of the “pound,” Shilling,” and “pence.” 14

Our First Diplomatic Challenge

When we arrived at our London lodging, the Grange Farms, we encountered a problem. We had awakened the inn keeper from a deep sleep. In his anger, he threatened to boot us out on our ears. The following statement was copied from my notes:

Fortunately, he cooled down as he gradually awakened. After a five minute walk and a brief welcome by her majesty’s servant, we barged in on a small crude dormitory already occupied by several sleepy-eyed Swedes who were not too happy to be awakened by us.

I don’t know what I meant by “her majesty’s servant.” Perhaps the dormitory was operated by the government. I don’t remember. I was starting to realize why the cost of our tour was so low. The total cost of the tour was approximately $900, including our air fare and bus transportation, lodging expenses, and most of our meals. This was cheap even in 1955. At least the dormitory was clean and sharing it with some Swedes added to our educational experience. Our Swedish roommates spoke English. After a friendly explanation of our situation, smiles replaced frowns and peace prevailed. Our first and venture into international negotiations proved to be reasonably successful.

July 12, 1955: “Cream Coaches” Bus Tour of London

The only smiling faces this morning were those of our bus drivers, Stan and John. Their attitude was contagious. By the time we reached our first stop at the John Wesley Chapel House we were all smiling and ready to begin our London sightseeing.

Once inside the John Wesley Chapel House, we listened to an elderly English gentlemen explain in great detail every memento in the House connected with the lives of John and Charles Wesley. His comments did make it more meaningful for me when I got to sit at the desk where Charles Wesley composed many of his 6500 hymns, and see the place where John Wesley did much of the preparation Online photo of his 40,000 sermons and 400 books. This chapel was built by John Wesley and is a Methodist church in London. John Wesley was the founder of the Methodist denomination. The chapel opened in 1778 as a replacement for an earlier London chapel.

Knowing more about John and Charles Wesley made it even more enjoyable to listen to Tom Tibbett and Lyla Wyss play the organ used by Charles Wesley. After their music, we listened to remarks by Forest Fordham, Phil Cline, and Joyce Parr. I took this photo of Joyce Parr while she spoke to our group. The light coming through the stain glassed windows made it difficult to show Joyce’s face.

Our next stop was St. Paul’s Cathedral, which was a sharp contrast to the Wesley Chapel. It was built by Sir Christopher Wren as part of the re-building program after the Great Fire of London in the 17th century. This fire gutted the medieval city of London inside the old Roman Wall. The Romans built this wall to protect their strategically important port town on the River Thames. An estimated 70,000 homes of 80,000 inhabitants were destroyed by the Great Fire. St. Paul’s is a Church of England Cathedral. It sits at the top of Ludgate Hill, the highest point in the City of London.

The guide who directed us through the Cathedral gave special attention to Hunt’s ”Light of the World.” Here is how Wikipedia describes the artist and his painting:

The Light of the World (1853–54) is an allegorical painting by William Holman Hunt representing the figure of Jesus preparing to knock on an overgrown and long-unopened door, illustrating Revelation 3:20: "Behold, I stand at the door and knock; if any man hear My voice, and open the door, I will come in to him, and will sup with him, and he with Me". According to Hunt: "I painted the picture with what I thought, unworthy though I was, to be by Divine command, and not simply as a good Subject." The door in the painting has no handle, and can therefore be opened only from the inside, representing "the obstinately shut mind".

Online photo

The Tower of London is a historic castle on the north bank of the River Thames in central London. Construction of the Tower of London started in 1078 and was not completed until 200 years later. Only the Roman remains in London have an earlier history. While we were there, we learned that an excavation the day before uncovered new information about the Online photo history of this ancient structure. We were not told what the discovery was. Today, I did a Google search and learned that the excavation revealed prehistoric pottery shards and flint that led to the excavation of a new length of moat.

The Tower’s use as a prison peaked in the 16th and 17th centuries. It was often referred to as the “Bloody Tower” because of the people who were beheaded here; including Sir Thomas More, Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard, Lady Jane Grey, Elizabeth I, and Sir Walter Raleigh. I took this picture from inside the Tower where many of the prisoners were kept.

Sir Thomas More. Known as “Saint Tomas More” by Catholics, was opposed to the Protestant Reformation and to the theology of Martin Luther. He opposed the King’s separation from the Catholic Church and refused to accept the King as the Supreme Head of the Church of England. He also opposed King Henry’s marriage to Ann Boleyn. He was convicted of treason and was beheaded in the Tower in 1535.

Anne Boleyn was Queen of England as the second wife of King Henry VIII. Anne’s marriage to King Henry and her subsequent beheading in the Tower in 1536 made her a key figure in the political and religious upheaval that led to the English Reformation in the 16th century. The events of the Reformation were connected to the Protestant Reformation and led to the Church of England breaking away from the authority of the Pope and the Catholic Church.

Catherine Howard was the fifth wife of Henry VIII, who referred to her as his “rose without a thorn.” As his wife, she was queen from 1540 to 1541. She was convicted of treason and beheaded in the Tower on the charge of committing adultery while married to the King.

Paul Delaroche painted this painting of “The Execution of Lady Jane Grey. Lady Jane Grey was known as the “Nine Days Queen.” She was deposed as Queen in 1553 only nine days after her coronation and later executed in the Tower of London in 1554.

Elizabeth I was imprisoned one year in the Tower by Queen Mary before Elizabeth became Queen. Queen Mary was Catholic and Elizabeth was suspected of supporting Protestant rebels. Elizabeth I was also known as “The Virgin Queen.” Some referred to her as “Good Queen Bess.” She served as Queen from 1558 to 1603.

Sir Walter Raleigh was an English aristocrat, writer, poet, soldier, politician, courtier, spy, and explorer (Wikipedia). He was a remarkable person and accounts of his life make for very interesting reading. For example: He participated in suppressions of rebellion, confiscation of property in Ireland, and played an important role in the English colonization of North America. He was imprisoned on the Tower of London more than once. His first imprisonment there was for secretly marrying Elizabeth Throckmorton, one of the Queen’s ladies in waiting without the Queen’s permission. He was imprisoned once again in the Tower for his involvement in a plot against King James I. While in the prison Raleigh's cell in Bloody he did considerable writing, including his HISTORY OF THE WORLD. Tower, Tower of London After his release in 1616, he led an expedition in search of El Dorado, the CITY OF GOLD.

The expedition was unsuccessful. To make things worse, men under his command ransacked a Spanish outpost. He returned to England, and to appease the Spanish he was arrested and executed in 1618. Only this time he was imprisoned in the Palace of Westminster and beheaded in the Old Palace Yard in 1618. He asked to see the axe used to behead him. His last words provide some insight into his personality and character. When he saw the axe, he said “This is a sharp Medicine, but it is a Physician for all diseases and miseries. His final words as he lay ready for the axe to fall were: “Strike, man, strike.” 18

This is a courtyard inside the Tower Walls. I learned that the Tower has had many uses: grand palace, royal residence, protection from invaders, home for “Crown Jewels,” home for Royal Mint, and office for public records. While editing my 1955 notes, I read that the Tower was used as a military prison during World Wars I and II. Twelve German spies were executed in the Tower after being convicted of espionage.

Here is Joyce Parr shaking hands with a member of the “Queens Guard. The “Guard” includes contingents of both infantry and cavalry, and is charged with guarding the official royal residences in London. The role of the Guard is more than “ceremonial.” It provides “sentries” both day and night. Sentries were stationed outside the walls until 1959 when a guardsman inadvertently kicked a tourist in the ankle as he marched. The tourist complained to the police, and the sentry was confined to the barracks for ten days. Shortly after this the sentries were moved inside the walls. Some thought the kick may have been in retaliation to harassment from tourists.

The Tower Bridge is along the River Thames and in the shadow of the Tower of London. The bridge was built in response to the commercial development of the East End of London. Access to the Port of London required a structure that could accommodate tall-masted ships. The two towers of this “bascule bridge” were built on piers. The central span was designed to be raised to allow river traffic to pass below.

After leaving the Tower of London, we walked along the Thames and stopped to eat a box lunch. The lunches were not exactly tasty. I desperately wanted a beverage to help me swallow the food. I walked into a small shop and asked for an “iced cola.” The clerk without smiling reached behind her and took a bottle of coke off the shelf and placed it in a cooler for a few moments. With an absolutely straight face, she handed me a still very warm bottle. I dutifully handed her the change and walked from the shop without complaint.

On the way back to our group, I encountered a group of “laborers” around three men shouting at each other. One yelled that Churchill, Roosevelt, and Stalin were all the same. A second admitted to being a communist, but defended Churchill, Roosevelt, and Churchill. The third obviously knew little about any of the three political leaders. Some of the laborers noticed my presence and by their glances let me know they resented my intrusion, so I continued on to rejoin my group.

Another short bus ride took us by “The Discovery,” the ship that took Sir Walter Scott to the Antarctic. The purpose of his 1901-04 “Discovery Expedition” was to conduct scientific research and geographical exploration of the Antarctic. It launched the careers of many leading Antarctic researchers.

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Our first stop was Westminster Abbey where I took this photo of a statue of King George V that is just outside the Abbey.

Once inside Westminster Abbey, I walked by “Poet’s Corner,” so named because of the many poets, playwrights, and writers buried or commemorated there. Geoffrey Chaucer was the first poet interred in Poet’s Corner in 1556. Since that time many have been interred there as a way to memorialize people for their contribution to British culture.

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As we exited the Abbey, Big Ben was directly ahead and to the left. Big Ben is the nickname for the clock tower at the north end of the Palace of Westminster. The clock tower was renamed the Elizabeth Tower in 2012 to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II. The clock itself is 23 feet across and weighs thirteen tons.

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To the right of Big Ben are the Houses of Online photo Parliament, also known as the Palace of Westminster. This is where the House of Lords and the House of Commons conduct their sittings. The laws governing Great Britain are debated and passed in the Houses of Parliament. The name, Palace of Westminster, originated from its use as the royal home of the Kings and Queens of England from the middle of the 11th Century until 1512.

The second stop on our bus tour was St. James Palace, the official residence of the Royal Family. This is confusing in that no sovereign has lived in St. James for almost two centuries. Nonetheless, it is still the official residence of the Royal Family, and is the oldest of the palaces in London. I learned some interesting things about St. James Palace in Wikipedia: The Declaration of St. James Palace was signed here in 1941 and was the first of six treaties that established the United Nations and compose the Charter of the United Nations. The coffin of Princess Diana was kept for a few days in the Chapel Royal of the Palace before taken to Kensington Palace on the eve of her funeral at Westminster Abbey in September 1997. Online photo

We proceeded from St. James Palace to Buckingham Palace. It is the London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy of the United Kingdom. It serves as the venue for state occasions and a place for royal hospitality. The core building of the palace was built for the Duke of Buckingham in 1703, and was acquired by King George III in 1761 as a private residence for Queen Charlotte. The last of several structural additions were made in the 19th and early Online photo 20th century included the familiar balcony where the royal family stands to greet the crowds below.

While I was taking these photos, some members of our group were fortunate enough to see the “Queen Mother” entering her residence for a tea party at her home. No! I didn’t get a picture of her!

Our bus tour ended with tea at Lyon’s Corners. The day had been filled with “history” and “activity.” By “Tea Time” we were tired and ready for refreshments. The Lyons Company had started a teashop in Piccadilly in 1894, and in 1909 started a chain of teashops known as Lyons’ Corner House that stayed in business until 1977. When I returned to London in the 1990s while I was doing consulting work for Frost and Sullivan, I tried to find the Lyon’s Corner Tea Shop. Now I know why I couldn’t find one. I was very disappointed. The food hall was filled with counters for delicatessen, sweets and chocolates, cakes, fruit, flowers and other products. A very fine orchestra played while we were enjoying the food. I don’t remember enjoying any restaurant in London as much as I did Lyon’s Corner.

The evening’s activities were at our residence at Grange Farms. We watched people playing soccer and tennis, and there were a few swimming in a pool. Terry Olsen and I enjoyed playing ping pong with a couple of Danish men, who surprisingly did not speak English. This was very unusual, for the only other Danish people we met spoke excellent English. When there confusion about the score, we used our fingers to indicate the score.

July 13, 1955: Bus Tour of Southern England

After eight hours of solid sleep, and I do mean “solid,” we boarded our Cream Coaches for a tour of Southern England. I don’t think the English have ever heard of springs. My bed was very uncomfortable.

We had a brief glimpse of Eaton College as our bus took us to Windsor Castle. Eton College is informally referred to as “Eton,” and is one of nine English independent schools that are known as “Public Schools.” It is widely considered one of England’s most prestigious independent secondary schools. Nearby is Windsor Castle.

Eton College in 1690 Engraving by David Loggan

Windsor Castle

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The following information about Windsor Castle is from the official Website of the British Monarchy:

Windsor Castle is an official residence of The Queen and the largest occupied castle in the world. A Royal home and fortress for over 900 years, the Castle remains a working palace today. The Queen uses the Castle both as a private home, where she usually spends the weekend, and as a Royal residence at which she undertakes certain formal duties. Windsor Castle is often used by The Queen to host State Visits from overseas monarchs and presidents.

The people walking in the street in this photo were members of our tour group. We were headed for Windsor Castle. According to my notes, they were Bob Washer, Everett, and Jean Smart.

Apparently, the Queen was in residence the day we visited the Castle. We had the opportunity to watch the colorful spectacle of the Changing of the Guard. My understanding is that this takes place only when The Queen is in residence.

The British military really know how to put on a show!

I took this picture of the Windsor countryside from the Castle. The Changing of the Guard was impressive, but was secondary to the fascination of seeing the magnificent old living quarters in a structure resplendent with lovely old tapestries, paintings, and furnishings. Walking through the castle was truly a walk through history as we passed by the shiny suits of armor, the historic coats of arms, and other ancient relics associated with the age of chivalry.

The afternoon of July 13 was the occasion for the running of the Ascot races at one of the leading race courses in the United Kingdom. They are attended by the Royal Family and many members of the English nobility. We were disappointed that the tour schedule did not include an opportunity to watch one of the races. Had we been able to watch a race that afternoon, we would have missed by a day a tragic event that took place the following day.

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Around the time of the 3:45 p.m. race on July 14, there was a violent thunderstorm. There were three flashes of lightning that were grounded on a metal fence near a place where many of the crowd had taken shelter. When the lightning struck, race-goers dropped to the ground, many of whom experienced temporary blackouts. Forty-two people were injured and eighteen were hospitalized. Two of these died, including a pregnant mother and an evangelist. . Instead of seeing the races at the Ascot Race Track, we stopped to see Stonehenge, a prehistoric home of the Druids. This is one of the most famous sites in the world, and is one of the favorite spots for tourists to visit in England. Archeologists believe it was built between 3000 BC and 2200 BC.

Our afternoon drive took us through an area in Online photo of White Cliffs of Dover Southern England called “The Weald.” The Weald crosses the counties of Sussex, Hampshire, Kent, and Surrey. “Weald” is an Old English word that signifies “forest.” In prehistoric times the area was heavily forested; however, early inhabitants of the land turned to farming and began clearing the forest. Deforestation accelerated over time as the wood from the forest was used for shipbuilding, charcoal, forest glass, and brickmaking. These industries left only remnants of the forest cover. Remaining are the eroded remains of a geological structure of Cretaceous rocks cut through by weathering to expose layers of sandstone ridges, clay valleys, and chalk. One of the distinguishing characteristics of Southern England and the “Weald” is its chalk. The area around Stonehenge is one of the best known areas for chalk formation. Perhaps the best known example of chalk formation for many Americans are the white Cliffs of Dover.

We walked in groups through the Oxford streets in the evening without our guide. My group got lost and was having difficulty finding our way back to the tourist home where we were to spend the night. Fortunately, a likeable Englishman named Charlie Robertson agreed to show us the way home. We talked as we walked, and Charlie asked us how Americans celebrated July 4th. This resulted in a very interesting conversation. Sam Wilcoxin, Dean Dixon, Frank Herrod, Stan Pottinger, Phil Cline, and I stayed in this home. Phil and I stayed in the Online photo daughter’s room. No, the owner of the home was not a farmer.

July 14, 1955 – Oxford University

The tourist home where we stayed was Mrs. Bell’s Home. I wrote down the address because if I ever returned to Oxford, I would want to stay there. The address of the home was 24 Alma Place. Our breakfast the next morning consisted of two eggs, Canadian bacon, potatoes, stewed tomatoes, and tea. We showed our appreciation for the fine service and food by leaving our host a pair of nylon hose and a tip. I downloaded a map of Oxford and marked Mrs. Bell’s Home with the arrow. Note: the home is very near the center of Oxford.

This photo shows the courtyard behind an Oxford Hotel. I remember talking to one of the employees about the courtyard. We were impressed with the quality of the grass and the color of the flowers. He told us that grass had been grown there for hundreds of years, and that the color of the flowers helped him keep his sanity during dreary and sunless days.

After breakfast our group visited St. John’s College, one of 38 Oxford University colleges. The college was founded in 1555 for the purpose of educating Roman Catholic clerics to support the “Counter-Reformation” under Queen Mary. The date of the origin of Oxford University is unknown, however there evidence of that it existed as early as 1096, which makes it the oldest university in the English speaking world, and the second-oldest in the world. .

After a brief stop at Blenheim Palace, Winston Churchill’s birthplace, we drove on to Evesham,

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When we arrived in Evesham, we received a warm greeting from a group of kids from a local school.

While at the school, our bus driver, Stan, demonstrated the techniques of cricket with some of the boys.

After lunch, a few of us went canoeing on the Avon River.

We arrived at Stratford-on-the Avon at 4 p.m. This gave us time to visit Shakespeare’s birthplace and Anne Hathaway’s Cottage in the nearby Village of Shottery. Anne Hathaway was the wife of Shakespeare, and lived in this cottage as a child. The oldest part of this cottage was built in the 15th century. In more recent years it has been open to visitors as a museum.

Here are some more of the pictures I took while in Stratford-on-the Avon:

After dinner at the Royal Hotel, a group of us went canoeing once again on the Avon River. Included in the fun were Ike Strain, Jean Smith, Jackie Lowe, and me.

Our evening also included a walk through Shakespeare’s Holy Trinity Church. This is the church where Shakespeare was baptized and buried. According to Wikipedia, more than 200,000 tourists visit the church each year. Our group of tourists left the church in time to make our 11:15 curfew.

July 15, 1955

Today, we drove by Warwick Castle on our way to Kenilworth Castle. The original structure was built on high ground above the Avon River by William the Conqueror in 1068. The present structure is the product of rebuilding done during the Hundred Years War, and is an excellent example of 14th century military architecture. The flow of the Avon River below has eroded the rock on which the castle was built, and has formed bluffs that enhance the natural defense of the castle. Its location has made it strategically important for defenses against rebellion in the area.

Kenilworth Castle was made famous by Sir Walter Scott’s book of the same name. Much of the structure was in ruins, but enough of it remained to capture the imagination of anyone who was fortunate enough to see it.

From Kenilworth Castle, we ventured on to Coventry, England. Coventry, the 10th largest city in England. The city is 95 miles northwest of central London. On November 14, 1940 the city was struck by a massive Luftwaffe air raid known as the “Coventry Blitz.” Only a shell of the former structure and its spire survived. Three quarters of Coventry’s industrial area was destroyed, and more than 4,000 houses were damaged or destroyed. Eight hundred people were killed.

While walking through the grassy area inside the shell of the Cathedral that remains, I took this picture of a photo of the Cathedral sanctuary before it was destroyed in 1940. I stood in awe as I stood in the shadows of the Cathedral Spire. It has become a symbol, not only of the stubborn resistance to tyranny of the people of Coventry, but to their Christian spirit as well. The people of Coventry, victims of some of the most destructive bombing of the war was the first English Parish to suggest aid to German refugees. Our guide told us that Coventry Cathedral was considered the leading center of Christian Spirit in England.

This is the Cathedral that replaced the one destroyed in World War II. The new Cathedral had not been built when we were in Coventry in 1955. It is noted for its modern architecture. Although we were not privileged to see it, we did see an example of the recovery underway in 1955 when Jackie Lowe, Ike Strain, and I had lunch in a modern cafeteria that was typical of the up-to-date construction replacing the debris from the war.

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Our bus took us along the streets where Lady Godiva made her historic ride to save the people from the harsh treatment of her husband, Lord Leofric. The legend of Lady Godiva dates back to the 11th century. According to the legend, Lady Godiva was a noblewoman who rode naked through the streets of Coventry to protest the decision of her husband, Lord Loefric, to raise taxes. Later versions of the legend include the legend of “peeping tom.” According to the later legend, Lord Leofric ordered the populace not to look when his wife rode through the streets. Only one person disobeyed, a local tailor named “Tom.” When Tom looked at Lady Godiva, he paid a high price for his moment of pleasure and was blinded. Several enterprising artists have sculpted statues of the legendary “Peeping Tom.”

That afternoon we went to Kettering, England where we saw the room where William Carey and friends planned their first missionary effort. A few moments were spent on the Fuller Church where Carey received his inspiration. Andrew Fuller was an early pastor of what became the Fuller Baptist Church. Fuller was credited with bringing life and vigor to the church, and was best known for his role in the establishment of the Baptist Missionary Society in 1792. William Carey was impressed with Fuller’s work and became the first missionary of the Baptist Missionary Society.

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Our next stop was in Bedford, England where we saw the place where John Bunyan was imprisoned. John Bunyan was a noted Christian writer and preacher. His most famous publication was Pilgrim’s Progress. As a “dissenter” who frequently challenged English authorities, he refused ordination in the Church of England. He was unlicensed and chose to endure twelve years of imprisonment rather than give up preaching. Although many identified him as a Baptist and Congregationalist, he described himself simply as a “Christian.”

Dinner was at St. Albans Cathedral where a few of us took a quiet walk through its old churchyard before boarding our buses for the drive back to our lodging at Grange Farms in London. We were told that its nave is the longest of any Cathedral in England. It became a Cathedral in 1877 and is the second oldest Cathedral in the United Kingdom.

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July 16, 1955

Today marked the official opening of the Baptist World Alliance (BWA). I saw many friends this morning: Dr. Nelson, former pastor at Calvary Baptist Church; Dr. Conrad Willard, current pastor at Calvary Baptist Church and his wife, Lena Mae; Dr. Walter Pope Binns, President of William Jewell College and his wife; Minetry Jones, Vice President of William Jewell College; and Ed Gaul, friend and colleague on the William Jewell Debate Team.

The first session at 2:30 p.m. featured the roll call of half the nations represented at the BWA, including the USSR. One of the “welcoming addresses” was given by The Reverend Henry Cook, who had been awarded an Honorary Doctor of Divinity Degree by William Jewell College earlier that morning. Another welcoming address was delivered by the Archbishop of Canterbury, who was President of the British Council of Churches. He spoke in behalf of the ecumenical movement. He urged “not uniformity” but fellowship and cooperation of the churches of Christ.

The motto of the Alliance was, “Jesus Christ, the same yesterday and today and forever.” The Keynote Speaker, Rev. Lawrence A. North of New Zealand, interpreted this as being “The changeless Prince in a changing world.” One of the better addresses was given by The Rev. Herbert Gezork, PhD, D.D. of Andover Newton Seminary. The title of his message was “Our Baptist Faith in the World Today.”

July 17, 1955 - Sunday

In the morning, overseas delegates preached at thirty-two London churches. The BWA opened at the Royal Albert Hall at 2:30 p.m. with the singing of the Atlanta, Georgia Baptist Associate Choir. The BWA Jubilee Address was delivered by The Rev. Townley Lord, D.D., D. Litt., president of the BWA: “The Baptist World Alliance in Retrospect and Prospect.” Perhaps our proudest moment of the BWA came later in the afternoon when one of our own, Phil Cline, delivered his personal testimony.

July 18, 1955

At the 9:45 session, Dr. H. Guy Moore of Fort Worth, Texas; delivered a Devotional Address: “I will draw all men unto me.” (John 12:32). His son, David, was a Kappa Alpha (KA) brother at William Jewell College. At the afternoon YOUTH CONFERENCE, our own Joyce Parr read the scripture. The address of this conference was delivered by The Rev. Joel Sorenson of Sweden. His topic was “Lengthen the Cords, Strengthen the Stakes! Review and Preview of BWA Youth Work.” The President of my college, Dr. Walter Pope Binns spoke during the evening session. His topic was “Christ and Freedom.”

July 19, 1955

As part of the YOUTH CONFERENCE in the afternoon, Joyce Parr and Forest Fordham were elected to the Youth Committee of the BWA. The Atlanta Baptist Association Choir sang again at the evening session. Dr. W. A. Criswell, pastor of the First Baptist Church in Dallas Texas, was on the evening program. Although I did not know him other than by reputation in 1955. We later got acquainted when he was Summer Pastor at Tremont Temple Baptist in Boston, and I took him on a tour of MIT.

July 20, 1955

In my 1955 notes I wrote that I missed the 9:45 session because I needed rest and wanted to “sleep in.” I also used some of this time to catch up on my laundry. I did arrive in time to hear and address by Robert Denny of the Southern Baptist Association. I had meet him when I was in high school in Shreveport, Louisiana and attended the Ridgcrest Baptist Encampment in North Carolina. I knew he was a good speaker. One of the week’s highlights was a pageant during the evening session. The Pageant was entitled “And there’s another country. It included scenes from Baptist history.

July 21, 1955

Once again, one of the highlights of today’s sessions was the singing of the Atlanta, Georgia Baptist Association Choir. One of the speakers spoke about Jamaica, another spoke about “The Cry of Africa,” and a third spoke about “The Challenge of Asia.”

July 22, 1955

We left our quarters at Grange Farm at 7:15 in order to board the Ferry that was to take us to Holland at 10:45. We missed the final sessions held at Royal Albert Hall during the day. We were particularly disappointed to miss the closing rally of the BWA held that evening at the “Arsenal Football Stadium.” The President-Elect of the BWA, Theodore Adams, was to be introduced. The Coronation Address was to be delivered by The Rev. Billy Graham. We knew he would deliver an outstanding address.

Highlights of the Baptist World Alliance in London, 1955

My personal highlights for the BWA were:  Hearing testimony of our own Phil Cline  The Address of William Jewell’s President, Dr. Walter Pope Binns  The singing of the Atlanta, Georgia Choir  Pageant depicting the history of the Baptist movement  Election of Joyce Parr and Forest Fordham to the Youth Committee of the BWA

Highlights of informal events outside the formal agenda of the BWA.  Impromptu gathering of students from several countries on hillside near Grange Farm  Hymn sing at midnight participated in by students from several countries Singing of hymns on subway by international students on way to BWA. Next day a sign was posted that read “No Street Singing Allowed.”

Miscellaneous Photos Taken in London This Week

There were no formal tours planned during the BWA, so I didn’t take many pictures. I did, however, take a few shots on my way to and from the BWA.

Opening Session of the BWA Waiting for bus near Royal Albert Hall

Puppet Show at Selfridges Department Store

Strand Circle Side Street near Strand Circle

July 22, 1955 Sail to Holland

We left the Harwich International Port at 10:45 a.m. The port is in Essex, England. Our destination was Hook of Holland. Our scheduled arrival in Holland was 5:45 p.m. We were crossing the North Sea, and the breeze was brisk and cool. We spent some time looking out from the decks. The name of our ship was the “Mecklenburg Vlissingen.”

When we weren’t outside on the decks, we relaxed in the lounge quarters inside. Thirty-one of the forty-one students on the tour were female. Only ten of the students on the tour were male, and of these only two of us showed any particular interest in the forty-one females. Marion Pember and I enjoyed the odds. In this photo, Joyce Parr is on my right. Jackie Lowe is on my left. Jeannie Wolfe is standing by the window behind me. I gave most of my attention to Jackie and Jeannie.

We arrived at 5:45 in the afternoon at the “Hook of Holland.” The name refers to a geographical location in the southwestern corner of Holland. We were met by Jean Marie, who was to be our driver for the next 27 days. His bus was designed for 49 passengers, but was temporarily swelled to accommodate the 51 members of our tour group.

The bus ride that followed took us through a beautiful Dutch countryside dotted with windmills.

We arrived for a 7:45 that evening at the First Baptist Church in The Hague, Holland. Pastor Harkema welcomed us in his native tongue, (interpreted by J. Buitenhuis). Here you see us enjoying a feast of ham, cheese, bread, and tea. While eating, I enjoyed a conversation with a young Dutch teacher, Peter Borst. After the choir sang, we all joined in to sing some hymns.

Following the singing, one of the church deacons spoke to us in Dutch. The interpreter told us what he said:

We have difficulty with our languages. For you and me to understand each other, we need our interpreter. But two words you have spoken this morning I always understand, “Jesus Christus,” both here and in my heart. When you return to the United States, he will be both in your heart and ours. For us, Jesus Christ is the interpreter.

The evening ended with the singing of “Spirit of the Living God” and “Blessed be the tie that binds.”

July 23, 1955 in Holland

The next morning our double decker bus picked us up at the Woodschoten Hotel, and took us to The Hague. I am not sure if this is a photo of the hotel where we stayed. I found it during a “Google Search.” It is located near where we stayed and has the same name. In my 1955 notes, I wrote that the Woodschoten was built in 1932 and was used by the Germans during the Online photo war

The first place we stopped today was at the Houses of Parliament in The Hague. The Hague is the seat of the Dutch government. The photo on the left is a 2014 photo of the buildings of the Dutch Parliament. The photo on the right is a photo of one of the buildings of the Houses of Parliament. I am not sure which one. 2014 online photo

According to my notes this is a photo of the thrones of the Queen and Princess of the Netherlands. I’m not sure, but I believe this is inside the building in the photo in the previous paragraph.

There was considerable enthusiasm among the members of our group to buy wooden shoes. The overhead racks of our bus was filled with wooden shoes for the remainder of our trip. This picture shows some of our group outside the store where we purchased the shoes.

Our next stop was Madurodam. Madurodam is a miniature park in The Hague, Holland. Displayed are model replicas of famous Dutch public buildings, castles, and industrial projects. The park was only three years old in 1955.

Madurodam was named after George Maduro, a member of the Dutch resistance. He was a Jewish law student from Curacao before the war. He died at the Dachau Concentration Camp in 1945. He received the highest and oldest military decoration in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. He had distinguished himself in repelling a German attack on The Hague. He was released after being captured by the Germans in 1940, but refused the wear the Star of David required by the Nazis and joined the Dutch resistance. He was captured again while helping Allied pilots escape to the United Kingdom. He escaped again and rejoined the resistance only to be re-captured after betrayal by a collaborator. He died at Dachau only three months before the Online photo camp was liberated by American troops.

One of the more impressive Madurodam models is the Peace Palace. The original purpose of the Peace Palace was to provide a symbolic home for the Permanent Court of Arbitration that was created to end war by treaty at the 1899 Hague Peace Conference.

Muiderslot is a well-known Castle southeast of Amsterdam at the mouth of the River Vecht, The River Vecht flows into what used to be the Zuiderzee. If you were to visit it today, you would see an interior that has been restored to appear as it did in the 17th century.

After visiting Madurodam, we arrived in Online photo Amsterdam at 3 p.m. Although The Hague is the seat of the Dutch government, the Constitution of the Netherlands mandates Amsterdam as the capital city. Germany invaded the Netherlands in 1940. Of more than 100,000 Dutch Jews sent to concentration camps, 60,000 were from Amsterdam. Many Amsterdam citizens risked imprisonment for sheltering Jews. The young Jewish girl, Anne Frank, was one of these.

One of the places we visited in Amsterdam was Rembrandt Square to see the famous statue of Rembrandt. The square is in the center of Amsterdam, and is close to Rembrandt’s home from 1639 to 1656. The statue is Amsterdam’s oldest surviving statue in a public area.

There are more than one hundred kilometers of canals in Amsterdam that divide the city into approximately 90 islands. The city is a seaport and many refer to Amsterdam as the “Venice of the North.” Much of what we saw of Amsterdam was from this boat. We were told that we were aboard its “maiden voyage.”

Our evening back at Woodschoten provided us an opportunity to learn more about our hosts, the Dutch Student Christian Movement (SCM). Our lodging also served as the SCM’s headquarters. We met with the leader of the Dutch SCM, who told us about the work of union. He said, “Our witness is not by large groups [rallies], but comes in our everyday actions. We do sponsor various summer camps though.” He also told us about one of their early leaders, William Adolph Visser’t Hooft, who became the first secretary general of the World Council of Churches. During World War II, he was part of the resistance against Nazism, and Online photo his apartment in Geneva was used as a meeting place for members of the German Resistance.

July 24, 1955 along the Zuiderzee to Hamburg, Germany

Most of our day today will be spent in a bus as we drive from Woodschoten to Hamburg.

We started by driving twenty miles along the dike that separates the Zuiderzee from the North Sea. Before the dike was built, the Zuiderzee was a shallow bay of the North Sea in the northwest area of the Netherlands. It extended about sixty miles inland and was about thirty miles wide. It had an overall depth of thirteen to sixteen feet. The structure in this photo is a Memorial to Casualties from the flooding of this area.

Online photo We stopped for lunch in Groningen. When we arrived in town, it seemed every kid in town had heard about the Americans in the big bus and wanted to come see us. Groningen is the capital city of the Eponymous Province of the northern Netherlands. It is a university city and in 2014 the school had about 38,000 students.

Hamburg, Germany at Night

We arrived in Hamburg late in the day. It was very quiet in the bus as we entered the city and drove through the streets of Hamburg. The wartime destruction we had seen in England had bothered us, but this was something very different. One of our students broke the silence by saying, “We did this!”

Our route took us through a bombed-out area that had been heavily populated before World War II. Although much of of the rubble had been cleaned up, many of the buildings had not been rebuilt. There were many vacant lots separated by what remained of crumbled walls. Before we left Hamburg, we saw Online photo other areas where the structures had been rebuilt and reconstruction seemed well underway.

After walking Jerry Staley to the train at 12:00, Marion Pember, Pat Kinsella, Jackie Lowe, and I got a cup of coffee at a German restaurant. In the background was the music of a three-piece ensemble.

That night half of us stayed at the Hotel Edel, located in the heart of the Hamburg red light district. Some of the girls borrowed Marion Pember’s binoculars to sit up half the night to watch the local frauleins operate.

July 24, 1955 in Hamburg, Germany

As we walked the streets of Hamburg, we found many “Kodak Moments.” This photo of Hamburg business houses across the Elbe River shows the post-war progress of Hamburg. Today, Hamburg touts itself as one of the most dynamic economic regions in Europe. While walking along the Elbe, I was captivated by the beauty of the river and stopped along the banks of the river to write post cards. Later, we stopped for lunch in a modern cafeteria where lunch goers in a hurry could eat standing up at a counter.

Our first stop after lunch was at the German Baptist Seminary, where we learned the following facts about the seminary from Gunnar, one of the students.

1. It was founded in 1885. 2. It consists of two schools, one for pastors and one for youth work. 3. Course of study lasts for four years 4. It was completely destroyed during World War II by three bombings. 5. John D. Rockefeller donated land for the seminary. 6. It cost 150,000 to rebuild the seminary. Half of this came from foreign countries, including Southern and Northern (American) Baptists.

The work of the 100,000 Baptists in Germany is stronger in Eastern Germany than in Western Germany. Gunnar offered this explanation:

In the west the people are more independent. They have a car, a bike, a home, etc. In the East the Church is the only hope. Baptist work is stronger in the East because there is a greater need.”

When asked about the destruction of the city, Gunnar replied

“That is over. I think that it is better not to talk about that.”

The remainder of the afternoon was free for shopping and sightseeing. A group of us went with Gunnar to a camera store where he worked. He sold me an automatic light meter. One of the places I wanted to visit was St. Michel’s Church. Its spire was so prominent on the Hamburg skyline.

I am very proud of this picture of the Spire of St. Michel’s Church. According to Wikipedia, St. Michel’s is one of five Lutheran main churches, and is the most famous church in the city. In terms of architecture, it is more “Protestant,” and is a sharp contrast to other churches in Hamburg that were originally built by Roman Catholics.

Sailing vessels on the River Elbe use it an easily recognized Hamburg landmark.

The present structure of St. Michel’s originated in 1786. It has been reconstructed twice in the 20th Century. The first was after a fire in 1906. The second was after the bombings of 1944 and 1945. One of the more famous persons baptized in St. Michel’s was the composer and pianist, Johannes Brahms.

I was told I should climb to the upper level of St. Michel’s Church. It was not an easy climb, but view from the spire made it well worth the effort.

The view of the business district and the Elbe River was spectacular.

We could see evidence of the bomb damage and the progress being made from the reconstruction.

Evidence of the bomb damage is clearer in this photo. It shows the shells of buildings that remain. I was surprised at the quality of these photos. They were copied from one frame of photos taken with a Kodak 3-D camera.

July 26, 1955 Boat Ride to Denmark

The highlight of our boat trip from Germany to Copenhagen, Denmark was our breakfast. I described the breakfast as “American Style” in my notes; however, chef may have resented this designation. I have no idea the ethnic origin of the chef who may have considered it as traditional Danish? Dutch? German? Remember that World War II was only ten years behinds us, and conditions in Europe were still in the “recovery stage.” The skies were “clear and sunny.” The ship was more comfortable than any of our previous lodgings.

This was my first opportunity for a haircut. This Online photo is not me in the picture, nor was it taken on our ship. I borrowed the photo from the web. It felt so good to sit in the barber’s chair. I couldn’t resist getting my first “barber’s shave.” My barber was German and frankly I think he still had a personal grudge against Americans. In my notes I described my shave as “blood-letting European style. It was painful. In fairness to my barber I should say I had never been shaved “against the grain” before. Years later when I had another barber shave, and once again experienced an against the grain shave. It was also uncomfortable, but I was less wimpish about the pain.

It was a pleasure to look over the stern and think about our visit to England, Holland, and Germany. I was also looking forward to seeing Denmark, more of Germany, Switzerland, and Italy.

Minus a few whiskers and a pint of blood, we landed in Denmark. Our bus had boarded the ship with us, and was waiting for us at the dock as we disembarked. Our bus ride to Copenhagen took three hours. We had lunch in Copenhagen before going on to the First Baptist Church where we were greeted by pastor Wimpleman.

We met with him in the sanctuary where he told us about the churches in Denmark. Ninety-seven percent of the Danish people belong to the state church. The Baptist movement began in 1839 as an objection to infant baptism. Worship began there in small informal groups. In 1955 there were 7,300 Baptists in Denmark, he said. Baptists sponsor three areas of education: Five months of junior college, adult education classes, and theological training for pastors. Only one and one-half of the people attend church on Sunday, but one-third of these attend the free churches. This does show some progress, he observed.

Following dinner at Lido’s, most of our group went to Tivoli Gardens. The photo is of the main entrance. Wikipedia describes this Online photo entrance as a “World Famous Entrance.” The park started in 1843, and is the second oldest amusement park in the world. Georg Carslensen. Tivoli’s founder, persuaded King Christian VIII to grant him a charter by saying, “when the people are amusing themselves, they do not think about politics.”

Nazi sympathizers burned many of Tivoli’s buildings in 1943. Temporary buildings were constructed and the park was back in operation in only a few weeks.

Many compare Tivoli and its founder with Disneyland and Walt Disney. Georg Carslesen, is quoted as saying in 1844, “Tivoli will never be finished.” This sentiment was echoed more than a century later when Walt Disney asserted, “Disneyland will never be completed. It will continue to grow as long as there is imagination in the world.” The photo is of Tivoli’s pirate ship built in 1900. Doesn’t it remind you of Disneyworld in Orlando? When Online photo Walt Disney visited Tivoli Garden, he is quoted as saying Disneyland should try to emulate its “happy and unbuttoned air of relaxed fun.”

The park offers a variety of theatres, fountains, ponds, and amusements. At Tivoli you can see vaudeville acts or ballet, or listen to fine symphonic orchestras. You may enjoy opera singers or choose to dance to the music of a fine dance orchestra. It is best known for its wooden roller coaster that is one of the worlds oldest. This roller coaster can be seen in the background of this photo of Dragon Boat Lake.

Online photo

July 27, 1955 in Copenhagen

This was a day for sightseeing and the enjoyment of the beautiful city of Copenhagen. I spent the day with two local Danes, Svend A. Rasmussen and Kay Stansten. They took us to see the Royal Sailors Church, the Parliament Building, the National Museum, and the City Hall. In the afternoon, we saw the statue of Hans Christian Anderson, The Mermaid, as well as the Rosenborg Castle before traveling north to the International People’s Folk School. We could see Sweden on our right as we traveled north. Christiansborg Palace is the seat of the Danish Parliament, and houses Denmark’s Online photo three supreme powers: The executive power, the legislative power, and the judicial power.

The National Museum is Denmark’s largest Online photo museum of cultural history. Its exhibits include the histories of foreign cultures as well as Danish cultures.

The City Hall Square is a public square in the Online photo center of Copenhagen. It is a popular placer for a variety of events, including celebrations and demonstrations.

Rosenborg Castle was originally built as a Online photo country summerhouse in 1606. The castle was used as a royal residence until about 1710. Its museum exhibits Royal Collections and artifacts of culture from the late 16th century to the 19th century, and is open to the public.

This is a statue of Hans Christian Andersen, the Danish author who wrote plays, travelogues, novels, and poems. He is best known for his fairy tales that have been translated into more than 125 languages. They include such classics as “The Little Mermaid,” “The Snow Queen,” “The Ugly Duckling,” and “The Emperor’s New Clothes.” Danny Kaye had played the role of Hans Christian Anderson three years earlier in a film inspired by Andersen’s life. The film opened by saying “This is not the story of Andersen’s life, but a fairy tale about this great spinner of tales.” While in Denmark, I learned that some Danes resented his comedic characterization of Hans Christian Online photo Andersen; however, others admitted they enjoyed the movie.

The sculpting of this statue was based on Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale about “The Little Mermaid.” I took this photo of the statue of “The Little Mermaid” in 1955. Since that time I have been saddened many times by efforts to disfigure or destroy the statue. Although the statue has been vandalized many times since the 1960s by vandals and political activists, it has been restored each time. The head was replaced by a new head after it was cut off in 1964. In 1984, the right arm was returned in two days by the young men who had cut if off. The culprits who decapitated the head again in 1998 were never found, but the head was anonymously returned to a nearby TV station. It was reattached on February 4, 1998. The statue was knocked off its base with explosives in 2003, but was found in the harbor’s waters. After a fine dinner at the International People’s Folk School, Peter Mennegan told us about the work of the school. Mr. Mennegan is the author of the book, Living Democracy. The book and the work of the school is based primarily on the cooperative association of farm groups. He explained that cooperative associations were necessary for Danish farmers to compete for the English market. When I did the research for my editing of my 1955 notes, I was unable to find anything about Peter Mennegan or his book. I did find this information about “The Danish Cooperative Movement” in Wikipedia.

The Danish cooperative movement was a means of economical organization under leadership of consumer- or producer-controlled corporations, where each individual member owned a part of the corporation. The type of organization was especially used in the farming industry and in consumer organizations in Denmark from the 1790s to the 1960s. The members of the corporations sought to share the economic stress of producing or buying goods, and divided the eventual end-year financial surplus amongst them. The type of ownership rules varied greatly between individual corporations, as some divided the financial risk equally, while others gave more power to the most financially involved individuals.

During our trip back to Copenhagen our guide Online photo pointed in the direction of Kronburg Castle, where Shakespeare’s Hamlet walked the ramparts while he bemoaned his fate. The castle is on the southeastern tip of the Island of Zealand, the sound between Denmark and Sweden. In Shakespeare’s Hamlet, the castle was immortalized as “Elsinore.”

July 28, 1955 – Return from Denmark to Germany

We checked out of the Hotel Minde at 6 a.m. Instead of sleeping in private rooms, we had slept in a dormitory room. The hotel is a memorial to Danish seamen. I am not sure about this, but my memory is that Danish sailors can stay at this hotel for free or at a minimum charge. We caught a 9:30 a.m. ferry back to Germany. The name of our ferry was “King Frederick.” In addition to our bus, the ferry also carried a train aboard.

That night we stayed at the Hotel Koch in Hamburg. Part of our group had dinner with Dr. Michaltschaff, Chairman and General Secretary of the War Resisters International. A Google search failed to find any information about Dr. Michaltschaff. I did find a list of chairmen for WRI. Harold Bing was listed as chairman for the years 1949 to 1966. Wikipedia described WRI as an “international anti-war organization.” It headquarters are in London and has members and affiliates in more than thirty countries. Its fundamental belief is “War is a crime against humanity,” and its members are pledged to not support any kind of war and to “strive for all causes of war” The logo of the organization is the broken rifle shown in the image that opened this paragraph.

PERSONAL NOTE: When I graduated from William Jewell in 1956l, I considered two options after graduation. One was to pursue a Ph.D. in economics. The other was to become a naval intelligence officer. These options are described in greater detail in the Abbott Family History account covering the years 1956 to 1960. The Naval Intelligence option required a top secret clearance. When I was interviewed for the United States Navy at Olathe Naval Air Station in 1956, I discovered the navy was aware of my trip to Europe in 1955 and was particularly concerned with the background of William “Bill” Hammond, our tour guide. The naval officers who interviewed me told me Mr. Hammond was a well- known pacifist, and wanted to know my views towards pacifism. I had not given much thought to Bill Hammond’s pacifist views prior to the interview; however, on reflection I was not surprised learn he was a pacifist. May of our hosts on the tour had expressed anti-war sentiments, but this seemed natural given their recent experiences with the horrors of World War II. Many of these experiences will be documented later events of the tour. The most forceful of the anti-war views were expressed by Dr. Michaltshaff of the WRI. I apparently satisfied the Navy with my answers. I was approved for the United States Naval Intelligence program, but decided to pursue a Ph. D. in economics at M.I.T. instead.

July 29, 1955 – Travel south from Hamburg

Our bus left Hamburg at 7:15 a.m. Our route took us by Hannover and the River Leine on our way to Buckeburg, Germany. A tourist attraction that we did not see was the Buckeburg Palace. It was the residence of the Princes of Schamburg-Lippe. Although the family still lives in the Palace; parts of it are open to the public. We may have seen the palace from the road, but if we did I do not remember it, and did not find anything about it in my notes. We did have lunch at the Online photo Ratskeller (City Hall) with some city officials before going on to our next stop.

Our next stop was Freundschaftsheim, a Christian Peace Center where German and foreign youth work, study, pray, and play together under the leadership of Pastor Wilhelm Mensching. Although I am not a pacifist and was able to convince the United States Navy that my European trip did not convert me to pacifism, I must confess that developed great respect for Pastor Mencsching and his principles and values. Pastor Mensching is on the right in this picture. With him are Gunnar Sandberg & Miss Kirkwood. I found Pastor Mensching to be charismatic and inspirational; however, I must confess I had no idea how great he was until I did my research in 2014. Unfortunately, most of the sources were written in German. Although I had to pass an exam in 1958 to demonstrate my ability to read German text, I have not used this ability since and unable to read German text today. What I did read in English made me realize what a great person he was.

One source referred to him as “The saintly Pastor Mensching.” Other sources reported that he had been nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize in 1951 and 1955. The source that said he was nominated in 1955 was Embers of War by Grigor McClelland. The book was out of print and unavailable for purchase. Otherwise I would have ordered it. The publisher’s description of McClelland’s book included this statement:

Pacifist minister Wilhelm Mensching openly spoke for peace and against Nazi racism; he was protected from imprisonment by the resourcefulness of his congregation.

Pastor Wilhelm’s house at Freundschafscheim is dedicated to the youth of all nations who died in war. He told us that his oldest son was blinded by war, his second son was maimed by war, and a third was imprisoned in Russia. His daughter suffered a nervous breakdown. He was very proud to tell us about a former Nazi and a Jew who were at the school at the same time. At first the two did not get along, but after a time they did. When asked about the change in their relationship, the Nazi replied, “The Jew, he is not such a bad fellow.”

I wish I had taken more copious notes, but I didn’t. I spent considerable time during the writing of this section to attempt to learn more about him and his work. I will continue to do so. When Pastor Mensching finished talking to us, he took us on a tour of the school. Once outside, he pointed to the skyline to indicate where the Americans had crossed the mountains to enter the area. The road that passed the school was used by the Americans to transport tanks and artillery. He showed us a place where six German soldiers were killed while hiding in an overgrowth overlooking the road. The ground where the school is now was once used by the Luftwaffe. 50

It was necessary to hurry on to Online photo Gottingen, Germany in order to arrive in time for an appointment with Pastor Olaf Brennhand, a Norwegian who was persecuted by the Nazis during the German occupation of Norway. He founded Nansen House as a student center dedicated to his friends who died during the war. It was his hope that Nansen House, a student center for students of all nations, might bridge between his native Norway and Germany. Pastor Olaf explained to us the difficulty his school had teaching democracy to the German students. “The Germans,” he said,” thought that freedom meant the right to do as they pleased.” The younger people were hardened beyond their years, lacked leadership, and generally were difficult to reach. .

He told us a story of a night when the boys snuck out of their beds and set off firecrackers.in the middle of the night. In his anger he yelled at the boys and expelled them from school. Later, he and his colleagues realized this was the first time the boys had acted like boys since the end of the war. He then reinstated them only if they agreed to practice more such tricks.

On the international scene, Pastor Olaf felt that Russia wants war less than anyone. Russian can gain in many other less dangerous ways. “Germany is the real enemy of Russia,” he asserted. “Russia wants security, and fears a re-armed Germany.” He also felt it was too soon to rearm Germany. “They have not yet learned from their mistakes”. When asked if this meant he was a pacifist, he answered, “I can’t accept pacifism, I will try to solve all the problems in a peaceful way, but I will fight for my country if attacked.”

PERSONAL NOTE: Until I reviewed my notes in 2014, I had forgotten Pastor Brennhand’s statement. I had concluded each of our speakers and hosts had been pacifists. Clearly each of them had been touched by their recent wartime experiences and harbored antiwar sentiments. Pastor Brennand was clearly not a pacifist.

Nansen House was named after Odd Nansen; a Norwegian Architect, author, and humanitarian. He was responsible for many humanitarian acts on behalf of Jews in the early years of World War II, and was a co- founder of UNICEF. His father, Fridtiof Nansen, was a scientist and explorer, and was High Commissioner for Refugees during the time of the League of Nations (prior to World War II). He founded Nansenhielpen in 1939 to assist Jews who were fleeing Nazi persecution in central Europe.

Online photo

He later returned to Norway where he joined the Norwegian resistance. He was captured by the Gestapo and imprisoned at the Grini Prison Camp near Oslo Norway. It was used by the German occupying forces for prisoners of war, including many members of the Norwegian resistance. Almost twenty percent of those imprisoned at the camp were deported to prisons and Online photo of Grini concentration camps in Germany. Odd Hansen was one of these, and was sent to the concentration camp at Sachsenhausen. Nansen kept a diary while at Grini and Sachsenhausen. Somehow or other he was able to hide and preserve these diaries. After the war (1946) his diaries were published in a three-volume book that provided an in-depth account of life and death in Nazi concentration camps.

While reading online accounts, I found a transcript of an oral history video at the University South Florida Library that provided an insight into the caring nature of Odd Nansen. It was recorded by Thomas Buergenthal, a Jew who was also imprisoned at Sachsenhausen. Hansen came to visit him while he was in the camp hospital. Buergenthal had this to say about Nansen:

….. he would come and visit various Norwegians in the hospital, and that's how we met. He was writing a diary in the camp -- I, of course, didn't know about it at the time; I found out after the war. So he came by, talked to a lot of people, and then when he found that I was there and that I've come from Auschwitz, he befriended me and came and visited almost every week, or maybe even more often, and would bring me cookies and try to make sure that I was all right, and brought me -- as a matter of fact, brought me paper and a pencil to draw. And what I, of course, didn't know was that he wrote down a lot of things about my experiences at the time.

Nansen survived captivity at the camp and returned to Norway after the war to continue his architectural career and his humanitarian efforts. Thomas Buergenthal tried to find Nansen after the war to thank him, but couldn’t remember his name. Two or three years later his mother read about Nansen’s book, and he wrote Nansen to ask him if he might know the person who had helped him in the camp. Four to six weeks passed without hearing from Nansen. Keep in mind that the mail was slow and food was still very scarce. One day someone knocked on the door of Buergenthal’s home in Gottingen, Germany. There was a military truck outside, and the soldier who had knocked on our door told us he had a package for us. We replied,

"Well, give it to us." And he said, "No, no, we need to carry it." And they -- then a group or Norwegian soldiers jumped out of the car and brought this tremendous crate, a wooden crate of food that had been collected by Norwegian children, with a letter from him.

Nansen was the one who had befriended Buergenthal at the camp. Later, Nansen himself came to visit and took Buergenthal to Norway for a few weeks. Nansen had thought Buergenthal had died in the camp, and had dedicated his book to Buergenthal and others at Sachsenhaousen. 52

July 30, 1055 Kassel, Germany

We had a great “American Style” breakfast at the Brethren House in Kassel Germany. After breakfast we were shown through the service offices that operate at the Brethren House. Many volunteers from the Church of the Brethren did relief work in Germany to alleviate the devastation and misery created by the war, and deal with the influx of refugees. Kassel served as a learning center for American volunteers who receive two months of training before service project placement. Through channels provided by the World Council of Churches, the House assisted refugees in registering and finding sponsors in order to emigrate to other countries. Many families were continuing to receive aid from the Brethren Service Commission. Brethren House also played a large part in the student exchange program.between Germany and the United States. The House also sponsored work camps and seminars attended by young people from many countries.

Hercules Castle is a Kassel landmark. I do not remember seeing it, nor did I mention it in my notes. I included this online photo of the castle for those who may someday want to visit Kassel.

Online photo

From the Brethren House we went to the Publishing House of the German Baptists, where we met Eberhardt Schroder.

During our drive, we came across this scenic view of the Lech River. The river flows is in Austria and Germany. Its source is located in the Austrian state of Vorarlberg. When it crosses the German border it forms a 39’ waterfall. Online photo

At 10:00 we arrived at Wilhelm Castle, scene of the surrender of Napoleon III. On the grounds can also be seen an ancient Roman Aqueduct.

A few minutes later, we visited a horticulture exhibit where “the most beautiful flowers in Europe” were displayed.

That afternoon we drove through the Ruhr Valley (steel area) where we experienced our only flat tire of the trip. This made us late for our scheduled meeting with Dr. Ehlers, founder of Settler’s Village. Dr. Ehlers explained his work among refugees. According to Dr. Ehlers, “Only about 20% of the Germans own their own homes. “This leads to communism,” he said. “We wish to change that.”

So far Settler’s Village has built 250 houses, one family per house with each house having 1000 to 2000 square meters of land. Adequate lane for a large garden is vital to the program of Settler’s Village. The people build the houses themselves.” They have no money, but they have strong arms. The father works eight hours at his job and four hours on his home. The work is financed by the worker for a period of thirty years.

It was 10:00 p.m. before we arrived in Cologne where we were scheduled to stay in a private home. We had arrived much later than scheduled because of the blowout of a tire on our bus. Our group was led into a war-scarred church where we were assigned to the hosts who would take us to their homes. My host drove a VW, which was my first experience in a Volkswagen Beatle. My host was Herman Lullau who lived in Cologne-Flittard), Paracelsusplatz 9 Germany. His wife had prepared a bed for me on a studio couch and before I climbed into bed I asked Mr. Lullau if he spoke English.

“A little,” he said. “I was a prisoner of war in England during the war.”

Apprehensively, I turned out the light, but in spite of my apprehension I soon fell asleep. 54

July 31, 1955 Cologne-Flittard

The next morning at 7, I was awakened by the playing of German polka music coming from the kitchen. A few minutes later I joined the family at the kitchen table. After Herman Lullau led in prayer, I was introduced to the Lullau’s daughter, Helga. The family was very friendly and quickly overcame my apprehension from the night before. By the time the breakfast was over, I felt very comfortable. Mrs. Lullau kept speaking to me all through the meal even though she only spoke German and at that time I had not studied German. Even when I learned to read German as part of my graduate studies at MIT, I was unable to speak German. Mr. Lullau spoke to me slowly in broken English, but his daughter, Helga, spoke English very well. I was surprised when she told me she had only started speaking English two weeks before when she attended the Baptist World Alliance in London. However, she had studied English at school for two years.

Here I am with Helga and Marion Pember.

After breakfast, Helga and I walked to the station where we caught a train to the Baptist Church in Cologne-Flittard. There church there was in the heart of an area that was hit hard during the war. The people had been able to repair the church to the point where the damage was not visible.

This picture was taken of our group on the front steps of the church. After the photo was taken, we went inside where Pastor Grim and other members of his church talked to us. Pastor Grim told us about the first American he had ever met. It happened when he was a young man traveling through Europe on a bicycle. One night he noticed an American kneeling praying beside his bed at a youth hostel. The two became acquainted, knowing they had Christ in common. A member apologized for having to use an interpreter, but added, “There is the one interpreter, Jesus Christ.” He thanked us for the parcels that Americans had sent after the war. Each parcel had the same label, “In the name of Jesus Christ.” He closed by saying, “We all have the same label, “Jesus Christ.”

Others told of their experiences with American Soldiers after the war. One told of his eighty-six-year- old who returned to his Online photo home one evening to find an American Negro there. The older man asked the soldier, “Do you love Jesus”? The reply, “Yes, I am a Baptist.” They became well acquainted because they had Christ in common.

Herr Zimmerman told us of hiding in a cellar during the first day of the Americans entry into their area. He glanced outside where he saw an American reading his bible. No longer afraid, Mr. Zimmerman approached the American and struck up a friendly conversation. The same man went on to tell of a group of German Baptists gathered in his home for an hour of devotion and singing when the American soldiers came through searching homes. The American sergeant in charge entered, recognized the nature of the service and removed his helmet. After he ordered his men to put away their guns, the sergeant and his squad joined in with the gathering. When it was time to go to bed, the American who had the right to commandeer the beds, instead chose to sleep on the floor. “Now,” Mr. Zimmerman said, “We return the favor; you sleep in the beds and we sleep on the floor.”

The afternoon was spent sightseeing through the City of Cologne. We were told that there wasn’t a building in town that didn’t receive some damage from the war. This was not difficult to believe as we were constantly aware of the ravages of war as we drove through the historic streets.

The principle point of interest was the Cologne Cathedral where we spent an hour climbing the 500 steps to the height of its ornate spire. According to Wikipedia, the Cologne Cathedral is Germany’s most visited landmark. It is the largest Gothic Church in Northern Europe and has the second tallest spires. Ulm Cathedral has the tallest.

PERSONAL NOTE: While I was working on this section of the photo album, I came across a U.S. Army Orientation film that was produced in 1945. It was designed to discourage fraternization with Germans by soldiers while in Germany. The film describes Germans as warlike and untrustworthy. I watched it right after writing the previous section that describes American soldiers fraternizing with German Christians immediately following the end of the war. Frankly, I was shocked by the film. The film, I thought, was an unfair depiction of the German people. Then I realized that the film had been produced in 1945 immediately following a horrific war. I have pasted a hyperlink below in case you want to view the video. I have not included it justify or to criticize the thinking that went into the production of this video. I have included it to demonstrate how significant it is to understand the feelings of Americans and Germans after the war, and how these feelings were evolving. I also hope it will help us appreciate what we have learned about war and its effects on the people who are caught up in the conflict. I doubt that it will be sufficient for you to click on the hyperlink below to watch to video. You may have to copy and paste it in your web browser.

The title of the video is “Your Job in Germany.” It was produced as part of the orientation of soldiers who were part of the occupation of Germany. To watch the film, copy the hyperlink below and paste it in your web browser.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvcf9DKSpPw

We were guests of the Baptist Church for dinner. After dinner it was a short drive to Dusseldorf 57

August 1, 1955 Dusseldorf

The skyline of Dusseldorf looked quite different from this online photo when we arrived in Dusseldorf last night. Today Online photo (2014), it is an international financial center and is well known for its fashion and trade fairs. It is also known for its academy of fine arts, it pioneering in electronic music, and a large Japanese community. This is quite a contrast to the city we saw in 1955.

This is the city I saw through the lens of my 3-D Kodak Camera. I was looking at a reconstructed historic building through the gap created by World II bombing.

At 9:15 a.m. we had a conference with German Labor Leaders of the D.G.B. (Confederation of German Trade Unions). The DGB coordinates joint demands and activities of the German trade union movement, and is not directly involved in collective bargaining. Our meeting with the labor leaders gave us an interesting insight into the problems of German labor. We were told that German industry had been turned over largely to the same men who controlled German industry before the war. German labor was seeking to have some voice in the policies of German industry along with the industrialists. This program is called co-determination. I asked if co-determination might not render the union less necessary. Ludwig Rosenberg (online photo on right) responded to my question, and said that “Co-determination would not weaken the union.” He did believe that it has given and will continue to give new tasks to the union. The industries that have co-determination also have the largest percentage of union members. Online photo

From Dusseldorf, we went to Bonn Germany, the capital city of Western Germany. Bonn is on the banks of the Rhine River and is one of Germany’s oldest cities. When we were in Bonn in 1955, it was the provisional capital of West Germany. It served as the seat of the German Federal Government from 1990 to 2000 when the government moved to Berlin in 1999-2000. It is also the birthplace of Beethoven. To give you some idea about the distance we have Online photo 58

traveled, Bonn is only fifteen miles south of Cologne where we were yesterday. At 12: 30 we went to Bonn University where we had lunch in the student common. When the Nazis took power in 1933, the university was transformed into a Nazi educational institution. The university suffered heavy damage and was closed during the war. It was reopened in 1945.

After lunch there was time only for a short walk through the campus and by the Beethoven House, home of the famous composer.

Online photo of Beethoven’s piano

At 3 p.m. we had an interview with W. G. Middleman, Associate Minister of Refugees of the West German Republic. Herr Middleman told us the three basic problems facing the Republic:

1. To rebuild. 2. To make a new economic unit out of West Germany 3. To provide housing for 11,000,000 new people.

Herr Middleman is in the center. To his left his our tour guide, Bill Hammond. At 5:30 the tour assembled at the American Embassy. The embassy occupies the same facilities used by the occupational government following the war. It was really a magnificent and beautiful structure. I couldn’t resist the thought that it was an example of the lavish spending of our taxpayer dollars. Of course I was not much of a taxpayer at that time, so I didn’t get too upset.

We boarded our bus after an interesting and informative day in Dusseldorf and Bonn and headed for Koblenz where we spent the night.

August 2, 1955: Koblenz, Heidelberg, and Stuttgart

Koblenz is a picturesque town nestled in a valley alongside Online photo the Rhine River. In fact, the city is on both sides of the river. Medieval fortresses dot the hillsides all around the city, giving it a distinct air of a community bypassed by time. Many of Hitler’s outdoor rallies were held here.

We spent the morning motoring through the ancient Rhine Valley. On either side of the hills forming the valley we could see occasional castles as well as the famous Rhine vineyards. These vineyards were located on hillsides which seemed impossible to cultivate, yet our eyes told us this was so.

I don’t remember where I was when I took this picture. It may have been from our bus. It may have been taken during one of our stops along the Minz River near where it joins the Rhine.

Wikipedia: “If German Cities were schoolchildren then Darmstadt would be top of the class. Highly educated, well read, cultivated, immaculately groomed and with a range of interests. Through science, literature, art and architecture, Darmstadt has developed a wholly unique appeal that has earned it much acclaim.” Its recovery after World War II was stimulated by the development innovative organizations, including many publishing houses and graphic design studios. Online photo of The Mathildkenhohe artists colony also played an important Mathildenhohe artist colony role the city’s rise to prominence

Another remarkable development of the post-war period was the revival of the Heinerfest, held annually during the first weekend in July. We just missed the fifth post-war Heinerfest resumed in 1951. The Baptists of the BYF were probably happy that we weren’t around when the erudite people of Darmstadt were letting their hair down during Heinerfest.

We arrived in Darmstadt in time for our 1:30 p.m. appointment with the American Friends Service Committee (AFSC), where we were briefed on their aid programs. The AFSC works for peace and social justice around the world. During the 30s and 40s, AFSC helped refugees escape from Nazi Germany, provided relief for children on both sides of the Spanish Civil War, and provided relief for refugees in Vichy France. It received a Nobel Peace Prize in 1947.

That afternoon we journeyed on to Heidelberg where we saw the Heidelberg Castle. We also saw the famous fraternity houses of the “Student Prince.” Heidelberg Castle is one of the most often visited castles of Europe.

From the high promontory of the castle, there was an excellent view of the valley formed by the meandering of the Neckai River.

Although Heidelberg Castle is considered one of the best preserved castles in Europe, this photo shows there is still evidence of the ruins of time.

The castle gardens date back to 1616 to 1619. They were commissioned by Prince Elector Friedrich V for his wife, Elizabeth. They were designed and built by garden architect Salomon de Caus, and were considered masterpieces of their time. They were built on several terraces.

That night we had dinner in a suburb of Stuttgart and stayed at the Schirovien Hotel. We ate in the café decorated like the cave of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. After dinner, Jeanne Wolfe, Terry Olson, Frances Gibson and I walked through the darkened streets of the village. Most of the homes there had a barn attached to the house. The streets followed no set pattern, making it easy for us to get lost. We kept our bearings by keeping our sights on a very visible church steeple near our hotel.

August 3, 1955: Ulm Minster, Ottobeuren Abbey, and Mittenwald

We arrived at Ulm Minster, the tallest church in the world, at 10 a.m. Many refer to it as Ulm Cathedral because of its size, but it is not. Once a Roman Catholic Church, it is now Lutheran. If you are willing to climb 768 steps, including the final stairwell that barely accommodates one person, you will reach a panoramic view of the Alps that makes the climb worthwhile.

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We arrived at Ottobeuren Abbey at 11 a.m., just in time to hear the monks recite their morning prayers. We were then conducted through the monastery by a 19-year-old monk, who for 50 pfennigs ($0.125) was very anxious to explain the history of the Benedictine Order. The most interesting rooms of the monastery were the Emperor’s Hall, the Library, and the Museum.

The Sanctuary of the Benedictine Ottobeuren Abbey is the most beautiful sanctuary I have ever seen. Even though this picture was taken with relatively inexpensive camera, I think it provides some sense of how beautiful the sanctuary is. The young monk who hosted us during our visit claimed the music program of the Abbey is one of the finest in Bavaria. He spoke with pride about its organ, which Wikipedia stated is “one of the most treasured historic organs in Europe.”

We arrived in Mittenwald, Austria at 7 p.m. where we visited a violin museum, famous for making fine violins for 500 years. Mr. Baader a descendant of the original family explained how it took 140 hours to make a violin. He told us they export a large number of violins each year to Wurlitzer in New York. Historically, Mittenwald was on a trade route between Venice and Aufsburn and became one of the most important centers in Germany for making bowed and plucked stringed instruments. Online photo

1. We drove on later that evening over the Austrian Alps to Online photo Innsbruck. The river in the photo below is the Lech River. To give you some idea about where we were, Innsbruck is half way between Munich (Germany) and Verona (Italy). Most of us know about this being a renowned sports center. We watched the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics at Innsbruck. When we arrived at Innsbruck we found we had no rooms reserved. The local tourist office was not expecting us until the next night. We were fed supper at 11 p.m. while the tourist office tried to locate accommodations for us in tourist homes. I was the only one in our group who knew we didn’t have rooms. It was humorous to hear various members of the group say how anxious they were to go to bed when I knew we were not sure of having beds. Marion Pember remarked that he wished he had a sleeping bag so he could go right out and sleep on the sidewalk. Little did he

know! We did finally get some sort of accommodations. We followed the local tourist representative who led us by bicycle to our tourist homes. Jean Marie, Marion Pember, Frank Herrod, and I all slept in one bed that was just a little larger than a normal Online photo full-sized bed.

August 4, 1955: Innsbruck to Zurich

We left Innsbruck at 8 a.m. Our route took us through the Arlberg Pass. Arlberg is a mountain range between Vorarlberg and Tyrol in Austria. This photo is a winter photo. We only saw snow on distant mountain tops and nothing like the snow this this photo. One of the interesting sights of the day was an Austrian funeral. The procession was afoot. Each mourner carried an umbrella to shield him or her from the elements.

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We arrived at Feldkirk at 1 p.m. where we did some shopping before eating lunch at a second-floor café. Feldkirk is on the border with Switzerland and Liechtenstein.

An impressive site in Feldkirck is Schattenburg Castle.

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After lunch we traveled through Liechtenstein, a former Austrian Dependency, but completely independent since 1918. Liechtenstein lies between Austria and Switzerland. It hasn’t had an army since 1868. As an economist, I was impressed to learn that Liechtenstein has the highest gross domestic product per capita in the world. With such a high GDP per capita, it wasn’t surprising to be told it has a strong financial center.

That evening was a milestone for the tour. We enjoyed on of our finest meals of the trip at the Kongress House in Zurich. For the first time in many moons we could eat anything we pleased. The steak was delicious, but even the steak had to take a backseat to the water and the salad. I

Online photo don’t remember the Kongresshaus looking anything like this online photo. It is reasonable to expect the facilities have had significant facelifts since 1955.

August 5, 1955

We left Zurich at a 9 a.m. This is Lake Zug near Zurich. Jean Marie’s wife was now with us. I don’t remember why she was so late in joining our group.

That afternoon we reached Gotthard Pass, a high mountain pass that connects the German- speaking part of Switzerland in the north with the Italian-speaking part. We were now above the timberline.

Online photo from Gotthard Pass 66

While we were stopped for road construction, the engine of our bus overheated and our radiator blew up. It is hard to believe, but according to my notes, there was no permanent damage to the radiator or engine, except for the scalding of nearby motor cycle riders. We must have been able to get the motor running again by adding water to the radiator. While we were waiting for the road to clear, some of us climbed on top of the bus to enjoy the view. Marilyn Hetherington and Sandra Schoeninger are the persons with me on the rooftop.

I thought this was one of my better pictures. It shows beautiful rapids as the water flows down from the pass.

The lighting for this photo wasn’t so good, but I wanted to include it because it shows the beauty of the green grass that covers much of the Alps.

There were so many Kodak moments as we drove through the Alps.

This was no exception.

Online photo from Gotthard Pass

Although beautiful, there was no impulse for me to jump into the water.

That night we arrived in Milan at 11:15 p.m. We Online photo of Piazza Duomo with Milan Cathedral were originally scheduled to go on to Venice. We and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, were told before arriving in Milan that the Venice the world's oldest shopping mall. excursion had been canceled. Our tour guide had been unable to get reservations for our group. Many of us were very disappointed and protested this news. Our adult leaders decided to let those of us who chose to do so go onto Venice on our own. I don’t remember how many decided to take this option, but a fairly large group of us gathered for a briefing by our Online photo of Milan Train station tour Guide, Bill Hammond. He carefully outlined the risks involved, and cautioned us about our decision. We were told we would have to find our own accommodations and would be responsible for our expenses. The majority of the group was discouraged by Hammond’s briefing and decided against Venice. Only Marion Pember, Pat Kinsella, Jackie Lowe, Gloria Glass, Colleen Wilkinson, and I decided to go to Venice. I was put in charge of our small group and given instructions for my responsibilities. A quick change into our suits and we were ready to head for Venice. My only luggage was a small toilet kit, and was I thankful for this later. I must have at least taken a change of underwear, but my notes were not clear about this.

We were dropped off at the Milano Centrale Railway Station. I was understandably nervous as I led our small group into the station. Purchasing second-class tickets for a 12:40 a.m. train was not difficult, but finding our train was. We were directed to a particular platform but the area was crowded with trains and people. It was difficult to make our way through the crowd. I kept saying, “Venezia… Venezia…Venezia,” and people would point us towards our train. When we finally reached our train, the scene was cartoon Online photo of Milano Centrale Train Station like. The train cars looked like pin cushions because of the images of people hanging out of the windows to talk to those saying goodbye outside. We climbed on the train to find all of the seats taken and little room to stand. We learned there was a second train alongside the one we were on, so we moved to the second train. The second train was almost as crowded. The only difference was there was a bit more room to stand in the aisles.

We were bemoaning the prospects for standing all night. Someone overhead our concerns and told us many of the seats were filled with people with third-class tickets. They would vacate their seats when the conductor came. We should be alert to grab seats when they were vacated. As the conductor approached, a nearby compartment cleared and all six of us were able to find seats in one compartment.

August 6, 1955: Milan to Venice, Italy

There were at least ten seats in our compartment. I was seated in the middle of the row on the left. Across from me and sitting next to the window was a casually but well-dressed blonde-haired gentlemen with a teen-aged boy. Except for our group, all the others appeared to be Italian Across and to the right from me were two very unsavory looking characters that made me nervous. One was wearing a t-shirt with wide horizontal colored bands that reminded me of one of the characters in a Joe Palooka comic strip. This particular character was always hanging around at the gym where Joe worked out. As the leader of a small group Online photo that included four young ladies, I felt the need to be protective.

It was late and there was very little conversation. Pat Kinsella decided this might be a good time to practice some of the French she had learned in college. The blonde gentleman across from me could not keep from laughing at her feeble attempts, but he was nice about it and apologized. Very little was said after that and most of those in our compartment went to sleep…except for me. As the “responsible person” in our group of six, I felt the need to stay alert and watch for the well-being of my group. I stayed awake until about 3:30 a.m. and kept my eye on the unsavory looking characters in our compartment.

People in our compartment began stirring around 5 a.m., and soon everyone was awake. The blonde-haired gentlemen led the way to help us to get acquainted. We learned that he was an executive with the Boy Scouts in Switzerland. The Swiss Guide and Scout Movement (SGSM) was founded in Switzerland in 1912 and was among the charter members of the World Organization of the Scout Movement in 1922. He spoke excellent English and served as the interpreter for everyone in our compartment. The two unsavory characters across from me looked quite different when they smiled and joined us in our conversation. They actually walked with us from the railway station to a center where we found transportation to San Marco Square. They recommended a place for breakfast and suggested some hotels.

We had breakfast at the Hotel Luna. According to my notes, the Hotel Luna could not offer us a room “even for $10 a night.” I must have thought $10 was a lot of money to pay for a room. In 2014, advertisements for the hotel described it as “historic Venetian hotel…housed in a magnificent aristocratic Venetian palace and offers its guest an intimate, welcoming atmosphere combined with Online photo impeccable service.” 70

We were able to find a room at the Metropole Hotel for $3.50 per night. An advertisement in 2014 described it as a 5-star hotel. I don’t remember it as being this nice; however, it was clean and comfortable.

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Marion Pember and I were checking out our room when Colleen Wilkinson asked us to come to their room to talk to the bell captain who was willing to arrange a gondola tour for us. I was immediately suspicious, but agreed to listen to his proposal. It turned out to be a good one. The total cost was $3 per person for a two-hour hour gondola ride. Our rooms had balconies that looked out on one of the canals that flows into the Grand Canal. I took this picture of Jackie Lowe from our balcony as she watched activity on the canal below us.

At 10:30 we took our gondola ride to a Venetian Glass Factory. Murano glass is glass made on the Venetian island of Murano. The artisans of Murano employ centuries-old technologies to make fine crystal ware and tourist souvenirs. From left to right are Gloria Glass, Colleen Wilkinson, Jackie Lowe, Jerry Abbott, and Pat Kinsella

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After lunch we walked around San Marco Square feeding the pigeons and taking pictures.

One of the important pictures to take was the “Lion of Venice.” This is an ancient bronze winged lion sculpture in San Marco Square that symbolizes the city and its patron saint, Saint Mark. The sculpture was brought to the square in the 12th century.

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We could see Santa Maria della Salute from San Marco Square. I am not sure if I took this photo from San Marco or from our gondola.

We rested from 3:30 to 5:30 before having a fine steak dinner at 6:30. Our gondola picked us up at our hotel in time for a 9 p.m. ride down the Grand Canal. All of the gondolas gathered around a barge that carried an orchestra with three vocalists. This was a particularly beautiful time when the sun went down and the lights of the assembled gondolas reflected on the water. In the dark, I exchanged seats with one of the members of our party. As I stood to clear my seat, Pat Kinsella lit a cigarette that lit up my face for a brief moment. A few moments later we heard a voice across the water,” “Is that Jerry Abbott over there”? The voice was from a friend from Simpson College in Iowa. In that brief moment of light, she was able to see and recognize me among the thousands of people in gondolas on the Grand Canal.

At 11:30 we were back at our hotel. It had been a great day…well worth the all night train ride after an exhausting all day bus ride. I wrote a few post cards before falling to sleep.

August 7, 1955: Venice to Rome

We caught a 9:35 train to Rome the next morning. Alongside of our train we saw numerous old cities set on a hill. Sometimes they seemed to be mostly in ruins. Other times there was evidence of inhabitation. Most of the farms were primitively cultivated, while a few seemed to be very up-to-date. Economically, Italy had enough land to support only half her population.

We had inadvertently seated ourselves in the First Class Compartment reserved for Parliament members on their way to Rome. We became aware of our error when everyone who passed our plush red compartment stared in wonderment. One fellow walked back and forth five or six times. We then investigated the sign outside our door, which was enough like French to get a rough translation. At that time I was able to read French text after two years of college French. We had come early to get good seats. A trainman had directed us to the first class car. By the time we discovered we were in the wrong car, we decided to “stick it out.” After all, it was the trainman’s error. Had he shown us to the right car, we would have had seats.

It was 10:30 before the conductor came around to check our tickets. We pretended not to understand what he was saying when he told us we were in the wrong seats. Somewhat dismayed, the conductor left to find an interpreter. Two or three trips later he found a lady from New York who spoke Italian. We explained what had happened, and she passed this on to the conductor. Faced with the prospect of going to the second-class car where there were no seats left, we continued to plead our case. “Had the trainman taken us to the correct car, we would have found vacant seats.” Our pleadings fell on deaf ears. We were moved to the second-class compartment. Ironically, thirty-five years later Vicki ran into a similar situation. Only she had gotten onto a first and second-class only train with a third-class ticket. Vicki and her friend were kicked off the train in the middle of the night. This was a very scary situation. You may want to ask her about this sometime.

Fortunately, we were able to find vacant seats on one of the second-class compartments. The unusual thing about this compartment was everyone spoke English. There was a couple from Sydney, Australia; and a mother and daughter from California. The California travelers were family members of a film director shooting a movie in Italy. The daughter was attractive who seemed interested in dramatics.

We arrived in Rome at 6 p.m. After some difficulty with the telephone, we were able to make contact with our tour group. They had arrived at the Baptist orphanage in Rome at six that morning. We were picked up by a small panel truck that took us to the orphanage where we were reunited with our BYF friends.

August 8, 1955: Rome, Italy

We started our sightseeing of Rome at the Coliseum at 9:30 a.m.

Photo on left shows a street in Rome, including the Victor Emmanuel Monument at the end of the street on the left, was taken through one of the arches at the Coliseum. Photo on right shows interior of the Coliseum through one of its arches.

From there were moved past the Arch of Constantine through the Temple of Venus to the Roman Forum. The Arch is located between the Coliseum and the Palatine Hill, and was erected by the Roman Senate to commemorate Constantine’s victory over Maxentius in the 312. It is the latest of the existing triumphal arches in Rome. Online photo of the Arch of Constantine as seen from the Coliseum

The Temple of Venus, thought to be the largest temple in Ancient Rome, is dedicated to the goddesses “Venus the bringer of good fortune” and “Roma Aeterna (“Eternal Rome”)

Online photo of the Temple of Venus as seen from the Coliseum

Our wanderings that day took us through 2000-year- old tunnels, courtyards, palaces, and gardens. Quite by accident we ended up on the Palatine Hill, home of most of the Roman Emperors’ palaces. The two figures on the path were monks.

Then we made a careful study of the Roman Forum proper before going on to the Temple of Antonio and Faustina, the Temple of the Vestal Virgins, the Basilica of Maxentius, and the Roman Senate. My photo of the Roman Forum didn’t turn out well. The lighting was not the best for this picture.

The Temple of Antoninus and Faustina was converted to a Roman Catholic Church around the seventh century. According to Wikipedia, the deep grooves in its columns (not observable in this photo) are said to result from earlier attempts to either destroy the pagan temple or deface it.

Temple of the Vestal Virgins: According to Wikipedia, the Vestals were “regarded as fundamental to the continuance and security of Rome.

The Basilica of Maxentius was the largest building in the Roman Forum. The meaning of the name was “new basilica.”

Rome Arch of Septimus Severus & the Curia (Seat of the Roman Senate). The arch commemorates of Septimius Severus and his two sons in campaigns against the Parthians in the second century.

The Roman Senate was the most powerful branch of government. Its control of money, administration, and the details of foreign policy gave it the most control over everyday affairs of Roman life. Members of the Senate of the Roman Republic were not elected but were appointed.

Once outside the Roman Forum we crossed the street to see Mamertine Prison, the place claimed to be the prison where Peter and Paul were imprisoned.

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That afternoon, we parked our bus on the Appian Way and walked a mile or so down the Appian Way to the St. Sebastian Catacombs.

At 4 p.m. we were shown through the various subterranean passages.

In the catacombs below we saw the bones of early Christians. Our guide was a priest who would wanted to quit the priesthood, but couldn’t. If he did he could never work again at any job in Italy, and it is impossible for an ex-priest to leave Italy.

That night at 7:30 we had dinner at the orphanage where we were extended an official welcome by Rev. Ronchi, the President and General Secretary of the Italian Baptists, Mr. Sachomonte, the Director of Youth Work, and Mrs. Moor, a Southern Baptist missionary.

‘ August 9, 1955: Rome, Italy

We spent the morning at Vatican City, where we saw St. Peter’s Cathedral.

One of the more impressive works of art we saw at St. Peter’s Cathedral was Michelangelo’s Pieta. The sculpture depicts the Online photo body of Jesus on the lap of his Mother Mary.

The use of the word, “impressive,” has to be one of the highest forms of understatement you are talking about the Pieta and the Sistine Chapel. The Sistine Chapel is in the Apostolic Palace in the Vatican City. This palace is the official residence of the Pope. The main tourist attractions of the Sistine Chapel are the frescos that decorate the interior.

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The most famous of fresco in the Sistine Chapel is the frescoe on its ceiling, Michelangelo’s “The Last Judgment“

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After an enjoyable Ravioli lunch, we walked by San Angelo Castle down to the Fountain of Trevi (“Three Coins in the Fountain”). Marion Pember, Jackie Lowe, Frank Herrod, and I then we went on to see the Memorial of Victor Emmanuel and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. There we saw the balcony from which Mussolini made many of his addresses to the crowd on the square below.

The Fountain of Trevi

Who is the couple sitting on the front wall of the fountain (to the right of center)?

It is Jackie Lowe and me. Yes, we each threw three coins into the fountain. I don’t know if Jackie ever returned; however, I did several times.

The Victor Emmanuel Monument was built to honor the first king of a unified Italy

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Online photo We went to Teatro Dell’ Opera to see Aida in the evening. The opera played in the ruins of the Terme di Caracalla in Rome. The outdoor setting of the Baths of Caracalla enhanced the performance in ways I cannot describe. Try to imagine a parade of elephants, camels, chariots and a large cast of opera singers marching and singing to the music of the Triumphal March of Aida. It is the best known of many triumphal marches written by such composers such as Beethoven and Grieg. Most would agree with me that the Triumphal March written by Giuseppe Verdi for Aida is the finest. If you can visualize such a scene, you will have only a slight insight into this grand evening of music and drama.

August 10, 1955: Rome to Leaning Tower of Pisa

We left Rome at 8:30 a.m. and drove along the Italian Riviera to Santa Severa Italian Baptist Work Camp, Villagio della Gioventu. The camp had been built the year before in 1954.

To read more about the history of Baptists in Italy, go to this web site: http://www.bwa-baptist- heritage.org/s-italy.htm

We arrived at the San Severa Work Camp at 10:30. Young people work in the camp eight hours each day without wages. Their day also included devotional periods, seminars, and recreation. We sang a few camp songs before being serenaded by the Italians. The Italian Youth Director, said to us, “We love you not as Americans, but as brethren in Jesus Christ. In Christ, there is no race or nationality.”

At 11 a.m. the combined groups of Italian and American students enjoyed a refreshing swim in the Mediterranean Sea before going on to the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Regrettably, I read a paper this morning (written by Anna Mafei in 2002) that this camp had been closed by the authorities and would require expensive renovation before it can be reopened. You can read more about this on page 8 by pasting this address in your computer’s browser: http://www.bwa-baptist-heritage.org/s-italy.htm

We arrived at the Leaning Tower of Pisa at 6 p.m. The Tower of Pisa is a freestanding bell tower of the Cathedral of the city of Pisa. The tower is well known for its unintended tilt to one side. The tilt began during construction and was caused by an inadequate foundation on ground too soft for the tower’s weight.

From Pisa we continued north to La Spezia. The city has an important Italian military and commercial harbor on Florence and south of Milan. That night in La Spezia, Marion Pember and I caught up on the notes we were taking about our trip. Soon we were drifting off to sleep, dreaming of the Italian Riviera where we had been that afternoon. We were also excited about the itinerary that would take us north to Genoa the next day.

August 11, 1955: Italian Riviera and Genoa, Italy

Today, Marion Pember and I rode all morning on top of the bus where we had an excellent view of the Italian Riviera and the Western Alps. We also had a nice vantage point to take this picture of an old woman feeding her fowl.

Genoa is a historical port in northern Italy. It is the birthplace of Christopher Columbus and is an important trade center. I read one tourist brochure that described Genoa as “one of the world’s best kept travel destinations secrets.” It has many famous landmarks and tourist attractions, and “enjoys a pleasant, mild climate.” Part of its attraction is its convenient Online photo access to the South of France.

We had dinner in in Turin, Italy where Marion Pember, Jeanne Online photo Wolfe, Carolyn Cummings, Judy Barnes, Diane Gray and I had dinner at a sidewalk café, C’est Bon. Turin is an important business and cultural center and boasts a rich culture and history.

Turin is surrounded by the Western Alpine arch. The peaks and mountain passes of the western Alps are higher compared to the Eastern Alps, and the range itself is more arched.

Online photo of western Alps

We arrived at 9:30 p.m. at the Italian Baptist Seminary in Online photo Rivoli, Italy. Rivoli is in the Province of Turin, and is nine miles west of the City of Turin. The seminary began in 1948 when Italian Baptists purchased a building built in 1790 from the nephew of the Pope. The local priest threatened the nephew with hell if he sold the building to the Baptists. Certain of the sacraments in the private chapel of the building had been blessed and the sale of such to pagans would bar one from purgatory. The nephew removed the articles in question and proceeded to sell to the Baptists.

The Italian Constitution provides for freedom of religion. This provision was influenced by the Waldensian movement in the Piedmont area around the seminary. The Waldensians were organized by Peter Waldo in the late twelfth century. They were declared heretics when their beliefs came in conflict with the Roman Catholic Church. The Waldensians embraced the Protestant Reformation in the 16th century and became a Protestant denomination. We were told that in sixty cases before the Italian Supreme Court against evangelicals, the lawyer hired by the Baptists, Methodists, and other evangelicals had won every case.

Online photo of Peter Waldo Statue Luther Memorial Worms, Germany.

August 12, 1955

The next morning at 6:30 a.m. we left Rivoli headed for Agapi, an ecumenical work camp. A narrow bridge was too narrow for our bus, so we detoured to Souza, Italy where we had lunch. Souza Pass, through which we were driving, was the pass which Hannibal, Charlemagne, and Caesar used to cross the Italian Alps. I tried to find information about Souza, Italy and Souza Pass when I did my research in 2014. I could find nothing. I could not find a town named “Souza,” nor could I find a pass named “Souza.” It is possible that I misspelled “Souza” in my 1955 notes, so I searched for similar names by reading about Hannibal marching through the Italian Alps. All efforts were unsuccessful, so I shall move on.

August 13, 1955

We arrived in Geneva at 12:30 a.m. on the 13th. Our first stop that morning was at the Federation of United Nations Organization Headquarters (WFUNA). The WFUNA coordinates more than 100 national United Nations Associations. Their mission is to “work and build a better world by strengthening and improving the United Nations through the engagement of people who share a global mindset and support international cooperation-global citizens.”

Right across the street was the Palais des Nations.

Above is a photo of the Armillary Sphere presented to the United Nations by the Woodrow Wilson Foundation. This sphere is a spherical framework of rings centered on Earth that represent lines of celestial longitude and latitude and other astronomically important features.

We had a conference with Mr. Wilde, Chief Information Officer of the World Health Organization at 9 a.m. I am writing this particular part of the album on October 24, 2014. The WHO is an important part of the daily headlines as we deal with the threat of EBOLA from Western Africa. I hope by the time you read this, EBOLA will have been a minor threat to the United States. At the moment, citizens of our country are very concerned. While we were with Mr. Wilde, there was an “Atoms for Peace Conference” in the same building. Attending were 2,000 delegates using 1200 documents on 50 tons of paper. The conference was working with atomic energy uses: 1. Use of radio isotopes in cure of cancer 2. Genetic effects of radiation and the international control of radiation 3. Exchange of findings in research in various countries The budget of the WHO at that time was $10 to 12 million.

We met with Mr. Allen, Chief Information Officer of the International Labor Organization (ILO) at 11:15 a.m. The ILO is the only surviving organization of the League of Nations. It has no legislative power. Mr. Allen felt Westbrook Pegler had not been fair to ILO. The ILO has had 1,511 ratifications of its recommendations. This includes: 1. Provide $2 million per year for technical assistance program 2. Improve unemployment agencies who work underdeveloped areas. 3. Develop industrial and economic reform for countries who have gained independence.

I took these pictures of Geneva as we left the ILO Headquarters.

Geneva was one of my favorite cities visited during our tour. My only regret is I have never had the opportunity to return to Geneva. It was clean and attractive. After a lunch, I went shopping for a watch for me and a doll for my niece, Sherry.

After dinner, we visited the Atoms for Peace Conference. “Atoms for Peace” was the title of a speech delivered by U. S. President Dwight D. Eisenhower to the United Nations General Assembly in 1953. Following this speech, the United States launched an “Atoms for Peace Program” that provided information and equipment to hospitals, schools, and research organizations around the world. Ironically, according to Wikipedia, the first nuclear reactors in Iran and Pakistan were built under this program.

After dinner we went to an exhibit of The First International Conference on Peaceful Uses of Atomic Energy. This was part of President Eisenhower’s “Atoms for Peace Program.” You can read details about this by inserting the following web address in your computer’s browser:

http://web.ornl.gov/info/ornlreview/rev25- 34/chapter4sb2.htm

The picture on the left shows a small nuclear reactor built for display at Online photo the Conference. It was described as a “swimming pool” type reactor that served as a prototype for research reactors overseas that could be fueled with low-enrichment fissionable material contributed by the United States.

More than 2000 people stood in line to “see the reactor’s blue glow” during the two weeks of the conference. Among those viewing the reactor were kings, queens, and presidents. One of the presidents was Dwight D. Eisenhower himself. He was there OOnlinenline photo photo in July 1955, one month before we were there (see photo on right). 88

After breakfast at the railway station in Geneva, we drove through the Loire Valley and French Chateau Country. The Loire Valley is often referred to as the Garden of France because of the vineyards, fruit orchards, and artichoke and asparagus fields that line the banks of the Loire River.

We had a sack lunch on our bus in order to arrive at Chateau Chenonceau in time for a “light pageant” that evening. The chateau is one of the most well- known chateaus in the Loire River Valley, and is famous for its beautiful arches on the River Cher. Its reflections on the water of the river makes it particularly photogenic. In the summer there are evening performances of a sound and light show called “In the Time of the Ladies of Chenonceau.” According to my memory and “my notes,” the show was spectacular.”

After the light pageant we went on to Tours, France where we arrived after midnight. There was “no room at the inn.” I really don’t know what happened. Perhaps our tour guide failed to call to tell our hotel we were to be late. Perhaps he hadn’t guaranteed our reservations. It is possible he failed to make the reservations. All I know is that we had to drive on to Paris. Bummer!

August 15, 1955

We drove all night and arrived at Versailles at 6 a.m. Versailles is located in the western suburbs of Paris, and is marked on this map by the red area. In the 15th century Versailles was a country village. Today, it is a wealthy suburb of Paris.

We visited the Palace of Versailles in the afternoon. For Americans, one of the more important events at the Palace was the signing of the Treaty of Versailles. This treaty as one of the peace treaties at the end of World War I. The Armistice of Compiegne signed on November 11, 1918 in Compiegne, France ended the fighting. The Treaty of Versailles signed on June 28, 1919 ended the state of war between Germany and the Allied powers. The four photos below were taken at the Palace of Versailles Gardens.

August 16, 1955

Believe it or not, we saw both the Eiffel Tower and the Statue of Liberty this morning. No, the supersonic jet Concorde was not flying in 1955. We did not do a quick flyover to see the Statue of Liberty. 90

Three years after the French gave the Statute of Liberty to the United States, they erected a miniature version on an island in the Seine River. This is quite a picture. In the background to the left is the Eiffel Tower. To the right is the Statue of Liberty. In the foreground is Jeannie Wolfe.

After lunch with Jean Marie, we did some shopping on our way to Notre Dame and the Palace of Justice. Notre Dame Cathedral is a historic Catholic Cathedral and is considered one of the most well- known church buildings in the world. It was one of the more interesting and beautiful structures we saw as we walked along the Seine River.

The Palace of Justice is a museum now, but was once a prison. Marie Antoinette was imprisoned here before she was executed on the guillotine.

When I took this picture of the Place du Chatelet Square, I had no idea what it was. While I was doing my research in 2014, I found a similar photo, and used Google to learn the square was named after the Chatelet fortress built here in the 12th century. The fortress played an important role in the defense of “The Ile de la Cite,” the historic center of Paris. At one time the fortress was one of the most dreaded prisons

in Paris where prisoners were subjected to “some of the worst tortures known to mankind.”

While we were walking, I couldn’t resist taking this picture of Jeannie Wolfe doing a visual check of a Paris Convenience Station. I’m not sure if her friend, Janice Gibson, is embarrassed or amused.

After the previous “fun photo,” I returned to taking more serious photos like this one of a bridge on the Seine River.

After dinner and a meeti ng with Bob Somerville of the French Baptists, we enjoyed a buggy ride on the Champs Elysee. From the comfort of our buggy we saw the Place des Concorde, Arch de Triomphe, Place D’Etoile, and Arch Carrousel. True to Paris tradition we had a 92 Online photo of Champs Elysses

snack at 12:45 a.m., wrote cards at 2:45 a.m. and went to bed at 5 a.m. The military parade to celebrate Bastille Day each year takes place on the Champs Elysees.

The Place de Concorde is the largest square in Paris and is at one end of The Avenue des Champs- Elysees. In the square is Cleopatra’s Needle, one of three Egyptian obelisks re-erected in Paris, London, and New York. Each is named “Cleopatra’s Needle;” however they have no connection with Queen Cleopatra of Egypt. They were more than one thousand years old when she was alive.

At the other end of the boulevard is The Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile. It is located in the Place de l’Etoile that was renamed Place Charles De Gaulle after the death of Charles De Gaulle in 1970. Charles De Gaulle was the dominant military and political leader of France from 1940 to 1969. He fled France when the Germans invaded in 1940 and operated from London during World War II. He organized the French Resistance and created Online photo of Place “D’Etoile the “Free French Movement.” He is considered by many to be the greatest of French leaders since Napoleon.

August 17, 1955

We packed our bus at 9:30. At 10:30 a.m. I went shopping for a gift for my mother after a trip to the American Express Office. Jeanne Wolfe and Janice Gibson joined me for more shopping after lunch.

At 2:20 p.m. we renewed our sightseeing. Our plans were to see the Louvre, Tuilleries, Place de Concorde, and Les Invalides (Napoleon’s Tomb). The Eiffel Tower was visible from many vantage points. It holds such a prominent place on the Paris skyline.

The Eiffel Tower is such an impressive and eye catching structure on the Paris skyline. According to Wikipedia, it is one of the most recognizable structures, and is the most-visited paid monument in the world. I was surprised to learn that some of the leading French artists and intellectuals had initially criticized its design. It is the equivalent of an 81-story building, and is the tallest structure in Paris.

The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel is in the Place du Carrousel and was built to commemorate Napoleon’s military victories. According to Wikipedia, it is less famous than the Arc de Triomphes de l’Etoile (renamed Place Charles de Gaulle).

I took this picture of the Louvre through the arch of the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel. The “Louvre” is located on the right bank of the Seine River, and is the world’s most-visited museum. It is housed in the Louvre Palace initially built as a fortress in the 12th century. One of its more famous exhibits is the Venus de Milo, a famous ancient Greek sculpture.

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As we walked along the Seine River, I couldn’t resist taking this picture of one of the oldest bridges in Paris. Jeannie Wolfe was nice enough to pose in the foreground.

We wanted to see Les Invalides because we knew it to be the place where Napoleon was buried. I thought I had taken a picture of Napoleon’s tomb, but I could not find one. Les Invalides is a complex of buildings relating to the military history of France.

The Tuileries Garden is a public garden between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. It was originally created as a garden for the Tuileries Palace in 1564. The Seine River is to the south, and the Place de la Concorde to the west.

The Tuileries Palace where the Tuileries Garden was built no longer stands. It was burned by the Paris Commune in 1871. Before it was burned it was used by most French Monarchs from Henry IV to Napoleon II. The Paris Commune was a revolutionary and socialist government that ruled Paris for only two Online photo months in 1871.

We boarded our bus for the drive from Paris to Dieppe at 7:30 p.m.

We left Dieppe at midnight for our cruise to England. Dieppe is a port on the English Channel with ferry service to Newhaven in England.

Dieppe

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It was an eight-hour cruise across the English Channel. Yes, that is me asleep on the lower bunk.

August 18, 1955

We arrived at Newhaven, England at 8 a.m. and enjoyed a breakfast of bacon, eggs, tea, and toast. The Port of NewHaven accommodates international ferries that run between Dieppe and Newhaven.

Our bus arrived at the airport at 1:30 p.m. where we saw a show, “White Feather,” at 6:30 p.m. “White Feather” was a 1955 western film directed by Robert D. Webb and starred Robert Wagner. The film was filmed in Durango, Mexico. At 9:30 p.m. I had a spit bath at the airport, and used the waiting time to write notes in my diary. We had a snack at the airport at 10:45 p.m. and our plane departed at 1:20 a.m.

I took this photo while we were waiting to board our Transocean Airlines Plane. The looks on our faces reveals the fatigue of a long trip and the boredom of several hours of waiting in the London Airport.

It wasn’t long before most of us were sound asleep aboard our plane.

In the words of Sergeant Schulz of TV’s “Hogan Heroes,” “I know nothing.” At least I knew nothing about Transocean Airlines when l flew to London in 1955. Had I known then what I learned in 2014, I might not have slept well while we were crossing the Atlantic. Transocean Airline reorganized only two months after our tour in October, and by the end of 1959 was in its final days and in need of financial life-support. It owed the IRS for unpaid taxes, was deeply in debt to its suppliers, and was on the verge of collapse. Time Magazine had written a story about a time when a Transocean Captain had to use a passenger’s credit card to buy fuel to continue a flight. Employee paychecks had been missed, and many of the airline’s employees worried about getting paid. The customer whose credit card was used to buy fuel was reimbursed, but the company’s financial troubles continued, and Transocean terminated operations in 1960 and declared bankruptcy.

Throughout Transocean’s history it had suffered from governmental restriction on non-scheduled carriers. Transocean’s CEO, Orvis Nelson, was an audacious and charismatic leader, but he had a very difficult time with government regulators. His strategies between 1946 and 1960 were considered by some to be flashy and brilliant. Others assessed his efforts as reckless at best. Some accused him of running on the edge of safety, flying old and inefficient war surplus aircraft. The airline suffered a series of high profile accidents that subjected him to industry criticism. Despite remarkable achievements after World War II, he fought a losing battle to get necessary government certifications and sufficient private financing. Nelson admitted the company was rarely far from bankruptcy and was often forced to live a hand-to-mouth existence on government defense contracts.

You can read one of my better sources for information about Transocean Airlines by pasting this address in your computer’s browser: http://www.taloa.org/end.html.

August 19, 1955

We enjoyed a beautiful sunrise and arrived at Keflavik, Iceland where we had breakfast. I purchased another doll for my niece, Sherre. Her last name was “Abbott” then, but now is “Lane.” Keflavik is the main hub for the country’s international flights. We left Iceland at 9:30 a.m. My notes read “sleep, sleep, sleep” after this. At 12:30 p.m. we had a box lunch on the plane. It tasted real good. In the afternoon we enjoyed more sleep. We were exhausted.

At 5:30 p.m. we spotted two icebergs. Online photo

We arrived in Gander, Newfoundland at 6:10 p.m. and left Gander at 7:50 p.m. My grandkids are probably wondering why we had to make so many stops. Remember that these were “prop” (propeller) planes with limited range.

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At midnight we saw what was left of Hurricane Diane.

Weather map of Hurricane Diane on August 17 as it neared North Carolina

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Our pilot told us the clouds we could see through our windows were what was left of Hurricane Diane as it moved northeast. He was nice enough to let me in the cockpit to take photo on left.

We arrived at Idlewilde Airport at 2 p.m. This was 9 a.m. New York time. The airport was dedicated as New York International Airport in 1948. It was more commonly known as Idlewild Airport until 1963 when it was renamed in memory of John F. Kennedy. Now we know it as “JFK.”

We cleared customs at 2:20.

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After clearing customs I saw my Dad who had come to the airport to pick me up. This picture was not taken at Idlewild; however, it was taken in 1955 at Union Station in Kansas City.

We took a bus to Prince George and then took a taxi to the Plaza Hotel. Our room faced out onto Central Park. The Plaza Hotel is recognized as a Historic Hotel of America by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The Plaza is a luxury hotel by almost any standard. Compared to our lodgings in Europe, it was unbelievably luxurious.

August 20, 1955

“Rise and Shine” at 6 a.m. We took a taxi to the air terminal at 6:30 a.m. where we had breakfast; however, our plane had been canceled. I mailed my film home for developing

The cancellation of our flight gave us the opportunity to take a ferry to the Statue of Liberty. I couldn’t resist taking this picture of the New York skyline. It looked a bit different in 1955.

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We saw the Statue of Liberty at 9 a.m.

Dad and I had a steak dinner near Radio City Music On line photo Hall at 11:30.

At 1:20 we took a bus from air terminal to our plane to catch TWA Flight 83 to Kansas City. It was a great way to end a great trip…to fly home with my Dad.

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