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Home , Dunkeld, Dunkeld Cathedral, River Tay

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Dunkeld House Hotel

A short history & guide to walks on the estate

THE DEER ON HOUSE ESTATE. The Two species of deer can be found Dunkeld on the Estate – the Roe and the much Larches larger Fallow. The Roe are normally seen singly or in pairs, with the male buck having short antlers. Both the buck and The estate is noted for its fine examples of female doe are grey/brown in winter and foxy rare trees and particularly its collection of red in summer. The Fallow deer are normally seen in small Larches. herds their most distinctive feature being their nine inch Indeed, Dunkeld larches can be found in long tails which are black on top and white below. forest all over the world! The colour of the coat varies. On Dunkeld For here is an important piece of natural House estate it is dark brown in winter and in history which was fashioned on the estate. summer change to various shades of brown The first larch trees to be planted in with chestnut/white spots. were brought fir the Tyrol by Mr Menzies of Culdares and given to James, White Fallow are often seen on the the second Duke, who had them planted in estate although they are not true albinos. the west end of the Cathedral in 1738. The buck can carry splendid antlers which There they flourished and became the are cast in spring, growing again during the ‘parent’ larches to a large proportion of summer months for the ‘rutting’ or mating those now to be found all over season in late October. During this time the Estates. bucks advertise the presence by ‘groaning’. In 1883, Japanese larches were brought th This rutting call may be heard over half-a-mile away. back by the 7 Duke- and when crossed with one of the ‘parent’ larches a hybrid was produced. These proved extremely fast growing and this, as well as their THE AMERICAN GARDEN. other qualities, explains why Dunkeld larches have proved so

th popular worldwide. The garden was laid out in the mid 19 Century amid oak Eleven of the original ‘Dunkeld Larches’ may be viewed from and beech trees. Initially a variety of rhododendrons, the driveway leading to the hotel. The last remaining ‘parent’ azaleas and other flowering shrubs were planted. Tall larch, now 250 years old, may be seen within the grounds of hybrid rhododendrons now dominate. Varieties of conifers Dunkeld House estate, very close to the railings marking the were planted most since 1867 and today the large boundary with . specimens of silver and noble fir and west Himalayan spruce are of national importance. Dunkeld House estate lies at the gateway to ‘ ’. The home of the Earls of Atholl since before 1529. It is situated in an area rich in beauty, wildlife and history. Osprey majestically fish the for Salmon and THE STAINED trout – while Capercaillie, black cock & wildcat lurk in the GLASS WINDOW. surrounding forests and hills. Take a step back into the last century and rejoice in the The stained glass beauties of nature, the sight of mountains and the pure air by window shows the taking a walk, if you will, through the grounds of the estate Atholl Arms and using this booklet as your guide. motto – the origins of which go back to 1475 when King James III of …But first a brief history of Dunkeld Scotland sent Lord Murray to capture the rebellious Lord MacDonald, the Lord of the Isles. The King gave him a House. dagger to protect himself, fetters and a key with which to The first residence of the Earls of Atholl was blown up by lock them. Cromwell’s troops in 1654 and old Dunkeld House was begun in 1676 to replace it, situated in old Dunkeld , close Lord Murray succeeded in capturing the Lord of the Isles behind the Cathedral. A architect, Mr Hopper, reported on the dangerous condition of the and brought him back to the King. For this service he was th granted the Forest of Cluny and took as his motto ‘Furth, house in 1828 and persuaded the 4 Duke Fortune and Fill the Fetters’ In 1703, the Earldom of Atoll of the need to build another. At this time was altered to the Dukedom of Atholl. the Duke had bought and old Inn that was situated on the Cathedral lawn. In 1811 this was made into the dwelling house for Miss Ogg, the retired Governess . However, the Inn was now needed The second, third and fourth Dukes (the 4th being known as for the Duke himself to live in during the building of the new the planting Duke) planted an incredible 14 million larch trees house. Miss Ogg was sent to the Isle of Man then owned by the plus millions of other trees between 1738 and 1830. The estate Atholls! woods provide homes for both the native Red Squirrel, The Duke took up residence in the old Inn, which had been evidence of whose presence is easily seen in the form of freshly enlarged and renamed St. Adamnan’s Cottage. Queen Victoria stripped pine cones and also the Scottish Crossbill, a bird stayed there on more than one occasion – she describes in her species unique to Britain. journals.

th THE EAST GROTTO In the 4 Duke began to build his new house. In fact it was referred to as the Palace and was large enough for a coach The east Grotto – buried into the wall dates and four to turn in the hall. It is widely believed that the idea of about the same time as the west grotto – building so large a house as ‘The Palace’ was a result of a wager although it is more closed in. between the Marquis of Breadalbane and the Laird of as to who could build the largest house. The only one finished was , near Kenmore, built by the Marquis of Breadalbane. The Murthly Laird died before completion of the WADE’S ROAD new castle there, leaving the estate in debt with no money to finish the building. General Wade’s Military road to The also died having spent between £20,000 was built because of the government’s and £30,000 – but his palace, with its desire to keep peace in the Highlands by 96 foot gallery, vast staircase and allowing its troops to move freely. elegant chapel, was only half finished and his successor did not have the Wade started his road from Inver and money to continue the building th crossed the river by the old west project. In October 1897 the 7 Duke ferry. The old wall retaining the bank decided to build a new house is a later addition and now provides a home for lichens and between the King’s Seat and the mosses. Wood sorrel grows in its cracks and, in summer, its American Gardens. This was to be base has blue splashes of colour from speedwells and forget- the present Dunkeld House, me-nots. situated a mile further up the river This is also a good place from which to see the Red Breasted from the original houses. In May 1899 St. Adamnan’s Cottage, Merganser and the Goosander, both of which dive in search of the unfinished Palace and the Brick Buildings were demolished small fish. The Goosander is one of the few ducks to nest in and the stone used to build the new house. tree holes.

As you look out across the 280 acres of Dunkeld estate pause THE OLD BOAT HOUSE for a moment and savour the surroundings as many of the great characters from Scotland’s past have done. Malcolm Canmore, The small sandy beach below the ruins of the son of King Duncan, used branches from Birnam Wood to old boat house provides a good opportunity conceal the size of his army as he marched against – to spot the footprints of Fallow Deer after an event that influenced many centuries they have come down from the woods later. to drink. The woods behind the boat house comprise of young birch, oak and beech and, in late , King of Scots, rested in the estate woods spring, are carpeted with bluebells, primrose and celandine after his followers were annihilated at the battle of Methven in giving way in late summer to wood sage and devils bit scabious. 1306. And that luckless lass, Mary, Queen of Scots, dismounted Semi-natural woodland such as found on the estate is the richest for refreshments here on her way to visit the Earl of Atholl at habitat for bird species because of the variety of available food the Castle of Blair in the summer of 1564. and nest sites. During spring and summer the extra effort of a Bonnie Prince Charlie’s Highland Army twice rested near the pre-breakfast walk will be well rewarded by the wealth and hotel. Firstly, on September 3rd 1745 during their triumphant beauty of birdsong. march south to Derby – whilst their commander, Lord George Murray, sent the traditional ‘fiery cross’ into the nearby glens to recruit more men. They rested here again – this time en route THE BISHOPS WALK for defeat at the Battle of Culloden where on April 16th 1746 the hopes of the Roman Catholic Stuart succession came to a This wood, next to the Cathedral, has bloody end. many fine trees such asthe Douglas The beauty and enchantment of Dunkeld has fir, beech and yew. The most note inspired many authors, William and worthy is close to the Cathedral (identified by Dorothy Wordsworth visited the area in a notice at its base)- the one remaining of 1803 and 1814. , the the group of ‘parent’ larches planted in 1738 by author and naturalist and the artist, John the second Duke of Atholl. From Everett Millais, have provided us this source cam the seeds for the with beautiful and long lasting memorials of their affection for great larch plantings for which Atholl estates became famous. this area. Several noted Millais works were painted around schist, which lies in the field behind Polney Lodge some 300ft Dunkeld. above sea level. The Romans were here in 138AD.

Watercolour studies of fungi by Beatrix Potter can be viewed at Perth Museum, by appointment. ST. COLME’S WELL On Tuesday September 6th 1842 Queen Victoria and her entourage first encountered Perthshire. Queen Victoria St. Colme’s Well is found nearby. St. recorded her impressions of Dunkeld. The peeps of Dunkeld, visited Dunkeld on his way to convert the with the river Tay deep in the bottom, and the view of the and rested beside the well. St. Columba’s bridge and Cathedral surrounded by the high wooded hills as importance to Dunkeld is such that he is you approach it were lovely in the extreme. depicted in a scene in Dunkeld Cathedral in It is claimed that Dunkeld was at one time the capital of the a stained glass window. The summit is best Pictish Kingdom and called Caledon. approached through the woods from the West and the short walk results in spectacular views North up the Tay valley to Ben Vrackie (841m) and South overlooking the whole estate with Dunkeld village and Birnam hill beyond. Scan the skies as well for Buzzards or, in the Winter months, even a Golden eagle.

THE WEST GROTTO

This is an unusual domed chamber with a Gothic THE KING’S SEAT: arched frontage thought to be the design of Robert Morris in 1756. It is an excellent spot to King’s seat is the name given to this small hill said to have been rest awhile with views over the River Tay towards the site of a Bronze Age Fort rebuilt 2000 years ago by the Picts the forest covered slopes of Craigvinean (468m) to command this route to the Highlands. It was a safe natural The River provides good feeding for many birds stronghold known in Pictish times (443AD – 843AD) as including the Dipper, coloured brown with a conspicuous white Dunghaildhuin – the name of course being changed and known front and a habit of constantly bobbing up and down when as the village of Dunkeld. Dunkeld is thought to have been the standing on rocks. The Grey Wagtail, in spite of its name has home of a Neolithic race of copper skinned, dark haired locals bright yellow under parts, which contrast boldly with its blue- who probably erected the standing stone, an oblong slab of grey back and long black tail and it is frequently seen at the water’s edge.