Cairns Region – North Queensland (03/27/2017 – 04/05/2017) – Birding Report Participants: Corey Callaghan and Diane Callaghan Email: [email protected] Overview: This trip mainly came about because a) Diane has recently been getting into scuba- diving and b) I really wanted to see Buff-breasted Paradise-Kingfisher. Cheap airfare didn’t hurt either! So, we decided to take a little holiday up towards Cairns to explore the Great Barrier Reef, and the surrounding areas, in search of rainforest and wet season specialties. Our general route consisted of flying into Cairns where we spent the first night, followed by four nights in Port Douglas, two nights in Julatten, and two nights in Yungaburra. We finished the trip with 221 species, 74 of which were new for Australia and 68 of which were lifers! Out of the 68 lifers, two were heard-only (White-browed Crake & Rufous-tailed Bush-hen). The diversity and abundance of birds in the region is fascinating. Not to mention the plethora of other scenery, including the oldest rainforests on the planet, lots of mammals, reptiles, and the amazing Great Barrier Reef. The timing of the trip was abnormal, as it appears few birders venture up to this area at the end of the wet season. Most trip reports originate from the beginning of the wet season (October/November). We aimed for the end of the wet season, as we prefer to go when there are less people! There are 12 endemic species to the Wet Tropics region (not including Sooty Owl (lesser)): Tooth-billed Catbird*, Golden Bowerbird, Victoria’s Riflebird, Bridled Honeyeater, Macleay’s Honeyeater, Grey-headed Robin, Fernwren, Atherton Scrubwren, Mountain Thornbill, Pied Monarch, Bower’s Shrikethrush, and Chowchilla. We saw all but one! The only one we missed was Golden Bowerbird. In addition, we saw other localized species, that the region is known for such as Blue-faced Parrotfinch, Southern Southern Cassowary Cassowary, Yellow-breasted Boatbill, Papuan Frogmouth, and Red-necked Crake. Another highlight was the Great Barrier Reef trip where we had all of the possible/expected terns, in addition to three species of Booby (Brown, Masked, and Red-footed)! The purpose of this trip report is to summarize our general route/plan and findings for anyone who may be travelling in the region and want to embark on their own trip, without a guide. This website by Laurie Ross and this website by Tim Dolby, were both essential in planning our trip. Some of the information was outdated, but overall, critical to the trip planning. Dirk Hovorka also provided useful tips/information. Our trip was 10 days in length, 8 full days in the region. In total we drove ~1,200 km. Read below for day-by-day highlights, some photos, and various birding locations. Any hyperlinks should take you to the associated location and/or eBird checklists, which would provide precise coordinates. *Note: I follow the eBird/clements taxonomy, which differs in bird names from IOC. Day 1 (March 27, 2017): Flight from Sydney to Cairns We had a 6 AM flight out of Sydney and arrived in Cairns at 9:30 AM local time. Once we arrived, we found that my luggage made it, but Diane's was left behind. Her luggage 'was aboard the next flight', per the receptionist there. After that mess, we were off in our rental car from Thrifty. Given my effort in solidarity, and the fact Diane couldn't change out of her jeans, we both hit the Esplanade in jeans! As soon as we got out of the car Peaceful Doves were calling in abundance. A Gray Goshawk flew over. We marveled at the distinctly different Australasian Figbirds. Varied Honeyeater was the first lifer of the trip, as we saw one perched on a light pole, hawking insects. Eventually, we found some roosting shorebirds which consisted mainly of Bar-tailed Godwits, Red-necked Stints, and Great Knots. A Curlew Sandpiper, Red-capped Plovers, and some Sharp-tailed Sandpipers were mixed in as well as my lifer Greater Sand- Plover. Further along the Esplanade we picked up some Mangrove Robin Metallic Starlings, an exceptional looking bird. We made our way down to the north end (in our jeans, and profusely sweating...), but were rewarded with excellent looks at a Mangrove Robin feeding along the edge. In total, we ended our first stop with 34 species! Off to a great start. From there, we checked into our hotel and headed to the airport to pick up Diane’s luggage that arrived late. After a quick change, we were off to the Botanic Gardens and Centenary Lakes for more birding. Here, we continued to see some of the common birds around Cairns, many of which were new for us. Orange-footed Scrubfowl strutted about, the first of a ubiquitous bird of the trip. Helmeted Friarbird, Green Oriole, Black Butcherbird, Olive-backed Sunbird, and Yellow Honeyeater were all had as we walked around. We had a couple waterbirds; Magpie Goose, Australasian Darter, Pacific Black Duck, and Radjah Shelduck. The latter, a particularly stunning waterbird. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped by the cemetery for the resident Bush Thick-Knees. The night was capped off with a couple of cold beers and some homemade sandwiches as we prepped for the following day. We stayed at the Belleview Motel, at a great price, and a stone's throw from the Esplanade itself. Day 2 (March 28, 2017): Cairns to Port Douglas The sunrise was spent on the world-famous Esplanade, where some of the first birds of the day were two Terek Sandpipers mixed in with the regular cast of roosting shorebirds. Many of the shorebirds from yesterday were gone, and it was mainly Bar-tailed Godwits and Great Knots. Quickly after the Tereks were spotted, they disappeared from the flock, probably to go feed near some mangroves. The true highlight of the morning walk were the large flocks of Torresian Imperial-Pigeons flying north, as the sun appeared on the horizon. I estimated at least 250 flew out of the trees. A single Tree Martin and a single Scaly-breasted Lorikeet mixed in with Welcome Swallows and Rainbow Lorikeets, respectively, added some variety to the walk. A Brown-backed Honeyeater in the north end of the Esplanade as well as Double-eyed Fig- Parrots capped off the morning bird walk. The morning walk yielded 38 species. Great Knot We then visited the Jack Barnes Boardwalk, near the airport with hopes of mangrove specialists. The mosquitoes were a slight annoyance, but as Diane was taking a photo of a Mudskipper, a very small, blue and white bird flew within inches of her head, and gave a piercing high-pitched call as it flew past. Little Kingfisher! - a main target bird of the location. Little else was had around the boardwalk. Next stop was the Cattana Wetlands. Waterbirds were non-existent, aside from some Comb- crested Jacanas. We did however, have some decent passerines, when we stumbled upon a flock which consisted of Spangled Drongo, Double-eyed Fig- Parrot, Rufous Fantail, Varied Triller, and Little Bronze-Cuckoo. The latter was the only one of the trip. Dusky Myzomela and Large- billed Gerygone were a couple more lifers at this location. A couple more Bush Thick- Knees, with a chick, was another highlight here. From there, we shot north to Mossman and Little Bronze-Cuckoo went to check out the Mossman Gorge. But, given the place was crawling with tourists we decided to find somewhere else to explore. Diane found Mowbray National Park on the map, so we headed that way. The place was quiet, just our style, and quite birdy (my style). We hiked a while down the road, where we had numerous Little Shrike-Thrush and Golden Whistler singing. A Fairy Gerygone was a splendid looking bird to come across. Eventually, while walking down the track, a bird flew up and landed over the track and we both got on it at the same time. Beautiful white-tail streamers, and a deep orange breast, with a bright orange bill: Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher!! We would see many, and they were numerous on our trip (I would wager I saw more Buff-breasted Paradise-Kingfishers than Laughing Kookaburras on the entire trip....), but you always remember that first view the best. We then walked along the bump track, a path cleared in 1877, where we had numerous Pale-yellow Robin and Rufous Fantail. Diane got looks at a male Victoria's Riflebird, while I only saw a female. Another highlight here was a Superb Fruit-Dove. From there, we headed back to Port Douglas to check into our AirBnB, our lodging for the next four nights. A quick bite to eat in town, and we were ready for bed. Sleeping was particularly difficult, not only for the impending excitement of the reef visit the following day, but also because of the insanely humid and hot temperatures. All the locals claimed it was 'unusually warm'. Day 3 (March 29, 2017): Great Barrier Reef – Agincourt Reefs We used Poseidon, out of Port Douglas, to go visit the Great Barrier Reef. They visit the Agincourt reefs, on the outer edge of the GBR. The weather was quite choppy when we visited the reef, thanks to cyclone Debbie, which was making landfall further south along the Queensland coast, but the birds and snorkeling were still incredibly memorable. Diane signed up for three dives, and thoroughly enjoyed them all. On the way, there were few birds, but we eventually saw some Brown Noddy and Sooty Terns flying past the boat.