WWD intimates A Supplement to WWD July 2009 n RomanticR i ffantasiesi come true with spring’s Victorian- infl uenced lingerie. wINTa001B;9.indd 1 7/17/09 4:27:54 PM WWD intimates ®The retailers’ daily newspaper Published by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10017 EDWARD NARDOZA Editor in Chief BRIDGET FOLEY Executive Editor JAMES FALLON Editor RICHARD ROSEN Managing Editor DIANNE M. POGODA Managing Editor, Fashion/Special Reports MICHAEL AGOSTA Special Sections Editor BOBBI QUEEN Senior Fashion Editor KARYN MONGET News Editor, Intimates WWD.COM AMY DITULLIO, Managing Editor Bruno Navarro (News Editor); Véronique Hyland (Associate Editor, Fashion); Lauren Benet Stephenson (Associate Editor, Beauty/Lifestyle) CONTRIBUTORS LOUISE BARTLETT JESSICA IREDALE ART DEPARTMENT ANDREW FLYNN, Group Art Director SHARON BER, AMY LOMACCHIO, Associate Art Directors Courtney Mitchell, Kim Gilby, Designers Eric Perry, Junior Designer Tyler Resty, Art Assistant LAYOUT/COPY DESK PETER SADERA Copy Chief MAUREEN MORRISON Deputy Copy Chief LISA KELLY Senior Copy Editor Adam Perkowsky, Kim Romagnuolo, Sarah Protzman Copy Editors PHOTOGRAPHY ANITA BETHEL, Director John Aquino, Talaya Centeno, George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Kyle Ericksen, Stéphane Feugère, Giovanni Giannoni, Thomas Iannaccone, Tim Jenkins, Davide Maestri, Dominique Maître, Robert Mitra, David Sawyer, Cliff Watts, Kristen Somody Whalen PHOTO CARRIE PROVENZANO, Photo Editor Lexie Moreland, Ashley Linn Martin, Photo Coordinators BUSINESS JOHN COSCIA, Editorial Business Director PATRICK MCCARTHY Chairman and Editorial Director 732-935-1100 | www.hanro.com wINTa_masthead;5.indd 2 7/17/09 1:57:21 PM IN0727_p004_0CA90.indd 1 7/17/09 2:06:43 PM Introducing CONFIDENTIAL by O Lingerie. The newest product category in the O Lingerie family. CONFIDENTIAL offers merchandise for every special occasion. View this new collection at the O Lingerie showroom: 358 Fifth Avenue Suite 800 New York, NY 10001 Please call 866-226-8246 for an appointment or email: [email protected] WWD intimates ®The retailers’ daily newspaper Published by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10017 WWD CHRISTINE GUILFOYLE Publisher ADVERTISING JOEL FERTEL, Executive Director, Innerwear/Legwear/Textile DALE REICH, Executive Director, Media & Trade Shows DEBRA GOLDBERG, Executive Director, Beauty JANINE MARKS, Account Director JENNIFER MARDER, Executive Director, Accessories ELIZABETH DETMER, Beauty Director TRACY HADEL, Account Director BRETT MITCHELL, Executive Director of International Fashion REGIONAL OFFICES RON TROXELL, West Coast Director, 323-965-7285 SUSAN SMITH, 770-992-3259 INTERNATIONAL OFFICES GUGLIELMO BAVA, International Advertising Director, 011-3902-6558-4225 OLGA KOUZNETSOVA, Account Manager, Italy, 011-3902-6558-4224 GIULIA SQUERI, Account Manager, Italy, 011-3902-6558-4236 ODILE EDA-PIERRE, Account Manager, Paris, 011-331-4451-1290 MARKETING/PROMOTION JODI MARCHISOTTA, Associate Publisher DANIELLE MCMURRAY, Creative Services Director KATIE MCKENNA, Brand Development Director JAIME HOLLANDER, Senior Marketing Manager BRIDGIT KEARNS, Marketing Manager HILLARY TOWNSEND, Online Marketing Manager TING WANG, Events and Promotions Manager BENJAMIN GELINAS, Design Director MARK RAMEL, Design Manager DIANE HUNTLEY, Copy Director CARA CLINTON, Promotions Editor STEPHANIE BROWN, Marketing Coordinator BUSINESS GROUP PRIMALIA CHANG, Senior Vice President, Finance and Planning GREGORY REMILLARD, General Manager, Fairchild Online DREW DIX, Executive Sales Director, Classified, Fairchild Fashion Group KAREN CHIU, Business Manager, Fairchild Fashion Group JANET JANOFF, General Manager, WWD RON WILSON, Director of European Operations WWD.COM STEVEN SOTTILE, Digital Director CRAIG BAILEY, Digital Account Executive ADVERTISING ASSISTANTS Nicole Doucette, Rebecca Buckley, Irene Eng, Tina Schlissel, Michele Sutton, Joyce Graham, Pascale Rajac, Emanuela Altimani PRODUCTION GENA KELLY, Executive Director, Manufacturing and Distribution CHRIS WENGIEL, Group Production Director KEVIN HURLEY, Production Director JILL BREINER, Associate Production Manager MICHAEL WAGNER, Senior B2B Distribution Manager CIRCULATION AP DUFFY, Circulation Marketing Director JOHN CROSS, Fulfillment Director JAMES ROSSI, Marketing Director RICHARD FRANZ, Circulation Sales Director TO DIAL DEPTS. DIRECT AREA CODE 212 News: 630-3500 Fashion: 630-3535 Display Advertising: 630-4600 Classified Advertising: 630-4610 Individual Subscriptions and Single Copy Sales: 800-289-0273; Foreign Subscribers (outside the U.S.) 818-487-4526 Fax number 818-487-4550. Group Subscriptions: 790-4457; Subscription orders can be faxed to 790-1868 Production: 630-4475 Editorial Reprints: SCOOP Reprint Source, 949-453-4680 FAIRCHILD OFFICES ATLANTA 30305: 3500 Piedmont Rd., N.E., Suite 505, 404-926-3535. CHICAGO 60611: 875 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1410, 312-649-6539. DALLAS 75207: 2730 Stemmons Fwy., Suite 211, 214-630-5461. LONDON WC2: Samantha Conti, 20 Shorts Garden, WC2H 9AU, 441-0171-240-0420. LOS ANGELES 90048: 6300 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 720, 323-965-7280. MILAN 20121: Piazza Cavour 2, 011-39-02-6558-4201. PARIS 75008: 9 Rue Royale, 331-4-451-1300. WASHINGTON 20036: 1050 17th St., N.W., Suite 600 202-496-4975. wINTa_masthead;5.indd 3 7/17/09 1:57:29 PM IN0727_p006_0CA90.indd 1 7/17/09 2:09:46 PM No Panty Line Promise® Shaper Inspired by the beauty of your natural form. Inspiring a new attitude in shapers. V-Neck Camisole Mini Brief Hi-Waist For more information contact Milou Gwyn at Jockey International, Inc. (212) 840-4900 Ext. 4904. © 2009 Jockey International, Inc. World Rights Reserved. Jockey Swirl Icon and No Panty Line Promise are trademarks of Jockey International, Inc. undercurrents Delicate Matters AS MUCH AS UNDERWEAR IS AN EVERYDAY ESSENTIAL, AS Susan Nethero of Atlanta-based Intimacy says, “it’s also, along with swimsuits and jeans, one of the most dreaded products women have to buy.” Indeed, BY TYLER RESTY ILLUSTRATION there’s nothing like trying on a skimpy bra to bring out body issues, and the thought of asking for assistance in front of a store full of strangers only compounds the anxiety. None of this is news to lingerie shop girls, who are trained to take a sensitive approach to the sales floor. “All customers desire a different amount of assistance,” says Melissa Silvetti, of Journelle in New York. “When someone is shy or a little conservative, we tone down our energy so as not to attract attention from fellow shoppers.” Whether a woman is in the market for basics or something that skews sexy, maintaining a level of discretion is key. At Intimacy, known for its bra-fitting specialists, customers can reserve appointments in advance online in an effort to avoid the discomfort of having to ask. Once there, “we don’t think any woman wants to be measured or weighed,” says Nethero, who tries to tailor appointments to the individual. “If it’s a young, teenage girl, we might pair her up with a younger fitter.” Regardless of age, most women — exhibitionists aside — consider privacy an essential part of the shopping experience, particularly when it comes to dressing rooms, which are often designed accordingly. “It’s a little nerve- racking sometimes when it’s a very small store and the only thing dividing you and shoppers is a small curtain,” says Silvetti, adding that Journelle’s dressing area features sturdy doors. Privacy isn’t the only issue: Dressing rooms are notorious for unflattering lighting, a problem Kiki de Montparnasse has solved by installing dimmers in the dressing rooms of its New York and Los Angeles stores. “People love it,” says Ashley Blanch, who manages the New York store. “You feel like you’re at home.” Yet for all the polite and studied sales approaches, nothing sells lingerie like confidence. Silvetti recalls a customer who, though skinny and stacked, was too timid to try sexier styles. After “a lot of gentle persuasion,” Silvetti persuaded her to buy a Cadolle corset, which she flaunted on the inaugural ball circuit. Seems the corset boosted her confidence, among other things. — Jessica Iredale Lingerie looks throughout the years. Atta Boy IN BETWEEN STYLING TOURS FOR BRITNEY Spears and Kylie Minogue, William Baker has been hard at work as creative director for B*boy Underwear, the dance-inspired men’s innerwear line. Its two new ranges for fall include the boldy colored Icon, and Active, with a high Lycra spandex content. “What inspired me,” says Baker, “was the very classical aesthetic in Calvin Klein ads from the Seventies and then again in the Nineties, with these pillars of masculinity.” — Katya Foreman Packaging from B*boy Underwear’s PANTY PARADE new Active range. LONDON’S FASHION AND TEXTILE MUSEUM GETS RACY FOR ITS LATEST exhibition, “Undercover,” which explores the changing shape of underwear since the early 20th century. Highlights include the world’s first patented bra, the Caresse Crosby, designed by the American socialite Mary Phelps Jacobs in 1914; a bodysuit worn by Sarah Jessica Parker in “Sex and the City,” and a white nylon Trade Secret bra from the Fifties with inflatable cup pouches for cleavage enhancement. The show runs through Sept. 27. — Louise Bartlett 8 WWDINTIMATES wINTa008(10)a;19.indd 1 7/17/09 4:30:15 PM INNOVATION YOU WILL LOVE. LYCRA® 2.0 GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Only from INVISTA: a new family of LYCRA® 2.0 tape and film products with unprecedented stretch and recovery. A desire for the sleek, smooth aesthetic of bonded garments and the value of the superior-fi t promise of LYCRA® fi ber combine beautifully in LYCRA® 2.0 garment technology. Nothing supports design innovation like LYCRA® 2.0 tape and fi lm, a growing family of patented technology that furnishes exceptional stretch and recovery to bonded hems, seams, and bands. LYCRA® 2.0 tape and fi lm is now available through a select group of garment manufacturers, and a growing collection of brands and retailers worldwide. Contact Roseann Beutell at 212-512-9213, or e-mail [email protected]. LYCRA® tape and garment technology is a trademark of INVISTA. ©2009 INVISTA. undercurrents Pink Power HOLD THE LACE.