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Lhasa  ་ས་ %0891 / POP 500,000 / ELEV 3650M

Why Go? . .78 Despite rampant modernisation and expansion, (the Monastery . .83 Place of the Gods) is still a city of wonders. Your fi rst view of the red and white soaring above the holy ...... 83 city will raise the goosebumps, while the whitewashed old Pabonka Monastery . .87 Tibetan quarter to the east continues to preserve the fl a- . . .89 vour of traditional Tibetan life. It is here in the , Drak ...... 92 an otherworldly mix of fl ickering butter lamps, wafting incense and prostrating pilgrims, and the encircling Bark- Drölma Lhakhang . . . .93 hor pilgrim circuit that most visitors fi rst fall in love with Shugsheb Nunnery . . .94 . These days the booming boulevards of the modern Chi- nese city dwarf the winding alleyways of the whitewashed Best Places to Eat Tibetan quarter but it is in the latter that you should focus your time. Hired transport is not required in Lhasa and » Snowland Restaurant most guides will let you explore the city by yourself. If (p 71 ) possible, budget a week to acclimatise, see the sights and » Woeser Zedroe Tibetan explore the backstreets before heading off on an overland Restaurant (p72 ) adventure. » New Restaurant (p 71 ) When to Go Best Places to Temperatures are comfortable during April to September, Stay with days surprisingly warm and nights pleasantly cool. » Y a b s h i P h u n k h a n g ( p 6 4 ) Sunlight is strong at this altitude so always wear sunscreen. The major festivals of Saga Dawa (spring) and » K y i c h u H o t e l ( p 6 4 ) (winter) bring huge numbers of pilgrims to the city, and » R a m a K h a r p o ( p 6 5 ) the August Shötun festival is also a major draw. Accommodation can be tight during the fi rst weeks of May and October and the months of July and August, when Chinese tourists fl ock to the city. :: :: ::

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LHASA tal to Lhasa and built a palace on the site sprawling Chinese-style western suburbs. now occupied by the Potala. It was at this The Tibetan quarter is now an isolated en- time that the temples of Ramoche and the clave at the eastern end of town, comprising Jokhang were founded to house the price- only around 4% of the city, and even these

less Buddha statues brought to Tibet as the lingering enclaves of tradition are under dowries of Songtsen Gampo’s Chinese and threat from the bulldozers, despite offi cial Nepali wives. protection. Lhasa has probably changed With the break-up of the Yarlung em- more in the last 20 years than in the thou- pire 250 years later, enjoyed a sand years before. gradual resurgence at monastic centres outside Lhasa and the centre of power Permits shifted to , Nedong (Ü) and then Shi- Lhasa is currently the only part of Tibet gatse (Tsang). No longer the capital, Lhasa that doesn’t require you to hire pricey languished in the backwaters of Tibetan transportation. The only time you will be history until the fi fth Dalai (1617–82) asked for your Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) defeated the kings with Mongol permit is when you check in to a hotel. No support. other permits are required for the city or The fi fth moved his capital surroundings. At the time of research you to Lhasa and started construction on his had to visit the main monasteries of Dre- palace, the Potala, on the site of the ruins pung, Sera, Ganden and the Jokhang (but of Songtsen Gampo’s 7th-century palace. not the Potala) in the company of your Lhasa has remained Tibet’s capital since guide, but other parts of the city were fi ne 1642, and most of the city’s historical sights to explore by yourself. date from this second stage of the city’s development. 1 Sights Modern Lhasa in many ways provides THE BARKHOR བར་འ ར་ 八廓 the visitor with both the best and the worst The fi rst stop for most newcomers to Lhasa of contemporary Tibet. Photographs of is the Jokhang in the heart of the Tibetan the city taken before October 1950 reveal old town. But before you even venture a small town nestled at the foot of the Po- into the Jokhang it’s worth taking a stroll tala, with a second cluster of residences around the Barkhor (Map p48 ), a quadran- surrounding the Jokhang, housing a popu- gle of streets that surrounds the Jokhang lation of between 20,000 and 30,000. To- complex. It is an area unrivalled in Tibet day the city has a population of around for its fascinating combination of sacred 500,000, and Chinese residents outnumber signifi cance and push-and-shove market Tibetans. economics. This is both the spiritual heart Shöl, the village at the foot of the Potala, of the Holy City and the main shopping dis- has long since disappeared, and the area trict for Tibetans. in front of the Potala has been made into The Barkhor is the one part of Lhasa that has most resisted the invasions of the modern world. Pilgrims from , Amdo and further afi eld step blithely around a PUBLIC TRANSPORT prostrating monk and stop briefl y to fi nger At the time of research, foreigners a jewel-encrusted dagger at a street stall; were not allowed to travel on public monks sit cross-legged on the paving stones transport out of Lhasa, with the pos- before their alms bowls muttering , sible exception of buses to the airport as armed police march by provocatively and the pilgrim bus to Ganden. Basic anti-clockwise in strict formation. It’s an ut- information is included here in case terly fascinating place you’ll want to come the situation changes. back to time after time. Barkhor Square MONUMENT For your fi rst visit to the Barkhor, enter from 43 Barkhor Sq (八角广场; Bājiǎo Guǎngchǎng; DANGERS & Map p48 ), a large plaza that was cleared in ANNOYANCES 1985. The square has become a focus for po- If you fl y straight into Lhasa, remem- litical protest and pitched battles between ber to take things easy for your fi rst Chinese and Tibetans on several occasions, day or two: it’s not uncommon to feel

notably in 1998 (when a Dutch tourist was LHASA

breathless, suff er from headaches SIGHTS shot in the shoulder) and most recently in and sleep poorly because of the alti- 2008. Look for the surveillance cameras re- tude. Don’t attempt the steps up to cording everything from the rooftops above SIGHTS the Potala for the fi rst few days, drink SIGHTS the square. The recent addition of a tacky lots of fl uids and read p 364 for details Dico’s fast-food joint at the west end of the on acute mountain sickness (AMS). square is a shame. At least the Chinese re- Take care also when re-opening sisted the temptation to plunk a Mao statue things such as tubes of sunscreen in the middle of it all, like in almost every after a fl ight in to Lhasa or even jars of other provincial capital. Coff ee-mate from a local shop, as the Close to the entrance to the Jokhang a change in pressure can cause messy constant stream of Tibetans follows the explosions of volcanic proportions. Barkhor circumambulation route in a On a more serious note, Chinese clockwise direction. Look for the two pot- armed police posts and riot squad bellied, stone sangkang (incense burners) teams currently occupy every street in front of the Jokhang. There are four al- corner in the old town. Most Tibetans together, marking the four extremities of ignore them but you should take care the Barkhor circuit; the other two are at not to photograph any military posts the rear of the Jokhang. Behind the fi rst or armed patrols. two sangkang are two joined enclosures. The northern stele is inscribed with the terms of the Sino-Tibetan treaty of 822. The of the , allegedly planted by Songtsen inscription guarantees mutual respect of Gampo’s Chinese wife, the borders of the two nations – an irony (Wencheng Konjo), and a stele erected in seemingly lost on the Chinese authorities. 1793 commemorating smallpox victims. The southern one harbours the stump of For your fi rst few visits to the Barkhor cir- an ancient willow tree, known as the hair cuit, it’s best to let yourself be dragged along

LHASA IN…

Two Days On arrival in Lhasa you need at least two days to adjust to the altitude and you can expect to be tired and headachey most of the time. We recommend adding an extra day and taking the fi rst day very easy. The fi rst item of business is for you or your guide to book a time to visit the Potala the next day. Then start off at Barkhor Sq, fi nding your legs on a relaxed stroll around the Barkhor circuit before visiting the Jokhang and afterwards grabbing lunch at nearby New Mandala Restaurant, Snowland Restaurant or Lhasa Kitchen. In the afternoon head to Sera Monastery to catch the monks debating. If your headache’s gone, round off the day with a cold Lhasa Beer at Dunya or the roof of Shambhala Palace. On day two visit the Potala at your allotted time and then spend the afternoon los- ing yourself in the fascinating old town on our walking tour. Four Days With four days you could leave the Potala until day three, and add on a stroll around the Potala kora, popping into the charming Lukhang Temple en route. On day four leave the city on a day trip out to Ganden Monastery, visiting the hermitage caves of Drak Yerpa on the way back. 1 2 3

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protector gods and the meditation cave of LHASA 1 Brahmaputra Grand Hotel...... G4 the chapel’s founder. Pilgrims ascend to the SIGHTS 2 New Summer Palace...... A3 upper fl oor to be blessed with a sprinkling 3 Norbulingka Ticket Office...... A3 of holy water and the touch of a holy dorje SIGHTS SIGHTS 4 Palace of the Eighth Dalai Lama...... A3 (thunderbolt). 5 Retreat of the ...... A3 Continue down the alley following the 6 Summer Palace of the 13th prayer wheels, then pass through a door- Dalai Lama ...... A3 way into the old Meru Nyingba Monas- . This small but active monastery is ÿ Sleeping tery a real delight and is invariably crowded 7 Four Points ...... E4 with Tibetans thumbing prayer beads or 8 Mandala Hotel ...... F4 lazily swinging prayer wheels and chanting 9 Oh Dan Guest House...... E2 under their breath. The chapel itself is ad- 10 St Regis ...... F4 ministered by Nechung Monastery, which ú Eating accounts for the many images of the Nec- 11 Norzing Selchung Tashi hung inside. The building, like the Yarphel Restaurant...... E2 adjoining Jokhang, dates back to the 7th century, though most of what you see today û Drinking is recently constructed. 12 Qīpíngmǐ Bar...... A2 On the west side of the courtyard up some narrow stairs is the small Sakyapa- ý Entertainment school chapel. Below is 13 Gyelpo's Nangma...... E3 Gongkar Chöde the , with a central 14 JJ Nangma...... D3 Zhambhala Lhakhang image of Marmedze (Dipamkara), the Past 15 Queen ...... B3 Buddha, and a small inner kora path. From 16 Shöl Opera Troupe ...... F4 here you can return north or head east to Information join up with the Barkhor circuit. 17 City People's Hospital...... F3 The eastern side of the circuit has more 18 Nepali Consulate-General ...... A2 shops and even a couple of small depart- 19 Tibetan Autonomous Region ment stores that specialise in turquoise. In People's Hospital ...... D2 the southeast corner is a wall shrine and a darchen (prayer pole), which mark the spot Transport where Tsongkhapa planted his walking 20 Air ...... B2 stick in 1409. The empty southern square of the Jokhang used to host annual teachings by the Dalai Lama during the Mönlam fes- by the centrifugal tide of pilgrims, but there tival. The circuit fi nally swings north by a are also several small, fascinating temples police station back to Barkhor Sq. to pop into en route. 大昭寺 THE JOKHANG  ་ཁང་ Barkhor Circuit PILGRIM CIRCUIT Also known in Tibetan as the Tsugl- As you follow the fl ow of pilgrims past sell- hakhang, the ers of religious photos, felt cowboy hats and Jokhang (Dàzhāo Sì; Map p48; h electric blenders (for yak-butter tea!), you’ll admission Y85; inner chapels 8am-12.30pm) is the most revered religious structure in soon see a small building on the right, set Tibet. Thick with the smell of yak butter, off from the main path. This is the Mani the murmur of mantras and the shuffl ing of , a small chapel that houses a Lhakhang wide-eyed pilgrims, the Jokhang is an un- huge set almost continuously rivalled Tibetan experience. Don’t miss it. in motion. To the right of the building is the The chapels can be very busy, with long grandiose entrance of the former city jail lines of pilgrims, so try to view the most and dungeons, known as the Nangtse Shar. popular ones just after the temple opens or entation, said to face towards to hon- 46 STREET NAMES our Princess . A few interior carved pillars and entrance arches remain from the In this edition we use Chinese street original 7th-century work of Newari arti- names, as that is what most locals sans brought from the Kathmandu Valley in (including many Tibetans) and almost Nepal to work on the construction. all taxi drivers use. The traditional Ti- In the early days of the Cultural Revolu- betan names are included in brackets.

LHASA tion, Red Guards desecrated much of the in- » Beijing Donglu (Beijing Shar Lam) terior of the Jokhang and it is claimed that » Beijing Zhonglu (Beijing Kyil Lam) a section was utilised as a pigsty. Since 1980 the Jokhang has been restored, and with- » Danjielin Lu (Tengyeling Lam) out the aid of an expert eye you will see few » Deji Lu (Dekyi Lam) signs of the misfortunes that have befallen » Jiangsu Lu (Chingdröl Shar Lam) the temple in recent years.

» Linkuo Lu (Linkhor Lam) GROUND FLOOR » Minzu Lu (Mirig Lam) In front of the entrance to the Jokhang is a » Niangre Lu (Nyangdren Lam) forecourt that is perpetually crowded with pilgrims polishing the fl agstones with their » Xiaozhaosi Lu (Ramoche Lam) prostrations. For information on the monu- » Yutuo Lu (Yuthok Lam) ments in front of the Jokhang see p43 . » Zangyiyuan Lu (Mentsikhang Lam) Just inside the entrance to the Jokhang » Zhisenge/Qingnian Lu are statues of the Four Guardian Kings (Dosenge Lam) (Chökyong), two on either side. Beyond this is the main assembly hall, or dukhang, a paved courtyard that is open to the ele- just before it closes around noon. The com- ments. During festivals the hall is often the plex is open in the afternoon via the side focus of ceremonies. The throne on the left entrance but most chapels are closed then wall was formerly used by the Dalai Lamas. and there are no pilgrims. Once you’ve left You’ll see a line of pilgrims fi ling past the the complex you can’t re-enter without buy- main Jokhang entrance as they walk the ing another ticket. Photos are not allowed pilgrim circuit around the temple. inside the chapels. The inner prayer hall of the Jokhang houses the most important images and cha- History pels. Most prominent are six larger-than-life Estimated dates for the Jokhang’s founding statues that dominate the central prayer range from 639 to 647 AD. Construction hall. In the foreground and to the left is a was initiated by King Songtsen Gampo to 6m statue of Guru . The statue house an image of Mikyöba (Akshobhya) opposite it, to the right, is of Jampa (Mai- brought to Tibet as part of the dowry of his treya), the Future Buddha. At the centre of Nepali wife Princess Bhrikuti. The Ramoche the hall, between and to the rear of these Temple was constructed at the same time to two statues, is a thousand-armed Chenresig house another Buddha image, Jowo Sakya- (Avalokiteshvara). At the far right are two muni (Sakya Thukpa), brought to Tibet more Jampa statues, one behind the other, by his Chinese wife Princess Wencheng. It and to the far rear, behind Chenresig and is thought that after the death of Songtsen facing the main Jowo statue, is another stat- Gampo, Jowo Sakyamuni was moved from ue of Guru Rinpoche, encased in a cabinet. Ramoche for its protection and hidden in Encircling this enclosed area of statues the Jokhang by Princess Wencheng. The im- is a collection of chapels, which Tibetan pil- age has remained in the Jokhang ever since grims visit in a clockwise direction. There (Jokhang, or Jowokhang, means ‘chapel of are generally long queues for the holiest the Jowo’), and it is the most revered Bud- chapels, particularly the Chapel of Jowo dha image in all of Tibet. Sakyamuni. Pilgrims rub the doorways and Over the centuries, the Jokhang has un- chain-mail curtains, touch their heads to dergone many renovations, but the basic lay- revered statues, throw seeds as off erings out is ancient and diff ers from that of many and pour molten yak butter into the heat other Tibetan religious structures. One cru- of a thousand prayer lamps. The hushed cial diff erence is the building’s east–west ori- atmosphere of respect is broken only by groups of tourists chattering into their - The Chapel of the Buddha of Infinite bile phones. Light (21) is the second of the chapels con- 47 The chapels, following a clockwise route, secrated to Öpagme (Amitabha), the Bud- are as follows. The numbers marked here dha of Infi nite Light. The outer entrance, refer to those marked on the Jokhang map. with its wonderful carved doors, is pro- Tsongkhapa was the founder of the tected by two fi erce , red Tamdrin Gelugpa order, and you can see him seated (Hayagriva; right) and blue Chana Dorje

in the centre of the (Vajrapani; left). There are also statues of LHASA

Chapel of Tsongkhapa SIGHTS & His Disciples (14), fl anked by his eight the eight . Pilgrims gener- disciples. The Chapel of the Buddha of ally pray here for the elimination of impedi- is usually closed. Just ments to viewing the most sacred image Infinite Light (15) SIGHTS outside is the large Tagba chörten (). of the Jokhang, that of Jowo Sakyamuni, The eight medicine buddhas in the Chapel which awaits in the next chapel. of the Eight Medicine Buddhas (17) are Outside the chapel to the right are stat- recent and not of special interest. ues of King Songtsen Gampo with his two The Chapel of Chenresig (18) contains wives, and of Guru Rinpoche (at the back). the Jokhang’s most important image after The most important shrine in Tibet, the the Jowo Sakyamuni. Legend has it that the Chapel of Jowo Sakyamuni (22) houses statue of Chenresig here sprang spontane- the image of Sakyamuni Buddha at the age ously into being and combines aspects of of 12 years, brought to Tibet by Princess King Songtsen Gampo, his wives and two Wencheng. You enter via an anteroom con- wrathful protective deities. The doors of taining the Four Guardian Kings, smiling on the chapel are among the few remnants still the left and frowning to the right. Inside are visible of the Jokhang’s 7th-century origins statues of the protectors Miyowa (Achala) and and were fashioned by Nepali artisans. This Chana Dorje (Vajrapani, blue). Several large and the next four chapels are the most pop- bells hang from the anteroom’s Newari-style ular with pilgrims and lines can be long. roof. The carved doorway has been rubbed In the Chapel of Jampa (19) are statues smooth by generations of pilgrims. of Jampa as well as four smaller bodhisat- The 1.5m statue of Sakyamuni is embed- tvas: Jampelyang (), Chenresig ded with precious stones, covered in silks (to the left), Chana Dorje (Vajrapani) and and jewellery, and surrounded by silver pil- Drölma (). Öpagme (Amitabha) and lars with dragon motifs. The silver canopy Tsongkhapa are also present here, as are above was fi nanced by a Mongolian khan. two chörtens, one of which holds the re- Pilgrims touch their forehead to the statue’s mains of the original sculptor. left leg before being tapped on the back by The image of Tsongkhapa in the Chapel a monk ‘bouncer’ when it’s time to move on. of Tsongkhapa (20) was commissioned by To the rear of Sakyamuni are statues of the subject himself and is said to be a pre- the seventh and 13th Dalai Lamas (with a cise resemblance. It is the central image on moustache), Tsongkhapa and 12 standing top of the steps. bodhisattvas. Look for the 7th-century pil- lars on the way out. The Jampa (, or Future Buddha) HAVE YOUR SAY enshrined in the Chapel of Jampa (23) is a replica of a statue that came to Tibet as a Found a fantastic restaurant that part of the dowry of Princess Bhrikuti, King you’re longing to share with the world? Songtsen Gampo’s Nepali wife. Around the Disagree with our recommendations? statue are eight images of Drölma, a god- Or just want to talk about your most dess seen as an embodiment of the en- recent trip? lightened mind of and who Whatever your reason, head to protects against the eight fears – hence lonelyplanet.com, where you can post the eight statues. There are some fi ne door a review, ask or answer a question on carvings here. As you exit the chapel look the Thorntree forum, comment on a for the unexpected statues of the Hindu blog, or share your photos and tips on gods Indra and Brahma. Groups. Or you can simply spend time In the Chapel of Chenresig Riding a chatting with like-minded travellers. Lion (24), the statue of Chenresig on the So go on, have your say. back of a sengye (snow lion) is fi rst on the 1 2 3 4 48 G LHASA 18 # ÿ # ð 67 # þ # ú 41

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Stand Songtsen Gampo, fl anked by images of King A Lugu Bus Trisong Detsen (left) and King Ralpachen (right). Pilgrims touch their head to the central pillar. On the wall outside the cha- To Bus 89 (50m); Train Station (50m) pel is a fi ne mural depicting the original ‚ 5 6 50 Barkhor & Old Town æ Top Sights 36 Tibet Kailash Hotel...... A2 Barkhor Circuit ...... C4 37 Trichang Labrang Hotel...... C6 Jokhang...... C4 38 Xiongbala Hotel...... D6 Lingkhor Pilgrim Circuit ...... E6 39 Yabshi Phunkhang ...... C2 40 Yak Hotel...... C2

LHASA æ Sights 1 Ani Sangkhung Nunnery ...... E5 ú Eating 2 Darchen...... D5 41 Alilang Korean Barbeque...... F2

3 Gongkar Chöde Chapel...... D4 42 Dunya Restaurant ...... C2 4 Gyüme Tratsang...... E2 43 Lánqíng Qīngzhēn Fànguǎn...... F2 5 Jampa Lhakhang ...... D4 44 Lhasa Kitchen...... B3 6 Karmashar Temple...... E4 Nam-tso Restaurant ...... (see 18) 7 Lho Rigsum Lhakhang...... C6 45 New Mandala Restaurant...... B4 8 Mani Lhakhang ...... D3 46 Pentoc Tibetan Restaurant...... B2 9 Meru Nyingba Monastery ...... D4 47 Shānchéng Chuāncàiguǎn ...... C2 10 Meru Sarpa Monastery ...... E2 48 Snowland Restaurant ...... B3 11 Pode Kangtsang ...... C5 49 Sun Tribe Restaurant...... G5 12 Rigsum Lhakhang...... B4 50 Tashi I...... B2 13 Shide Tratsang ...... B1 51 Tashi II...... E2 14 Tengye Ling...... A3 52 Tengyelink Café...... B3 15 Tsome Ling...... B1 53 Tibet Kun Phan Vegetarian Zhambhala Lhakhang ...... (see 3) Restaurant...... A4 54 Woeser Zedroe Tibetan Activities, Courses & Tours Restaurant...... B3 16 Without Borders Blind Medical Massage Clinic...... B2 û ü Drinking 17 Tenzin Blind Massage Centre...... B3 Dunya...... (see 42) 55 Makye Amye...... D5 ÿ Sleeping 56 Spinn Café...... B2 18 Banak Shol...... G3 Summit Café...... (see 33) 19 Barkhor Namchen House ...... E4 57 Teahouse ...... E5 20 Cool Yak Hotel ...... C3 58 Tengyeling Teahouse...... B3 21 Dhood Gu Hotel ...... C2 59 Teahouse ...... E5 22 Dongcuo International Youth Hostel ...... F2 Entertainment 23 Flora Hotel...... G5 Shangrila Restaurant...... (see 51) 24 Gang Gyen Hotel...... F2 25 Gorkha Hotel...... D6 þ Shopping 26 Heritage Hotel...... G5 60 Dorje Antique Shop...... C2 27 House of Shambhala...... E3 61 Lhasa Village Handicrafts...... F5 28 Kyichu Hotel...... B2 Kyichu Art Gallery ...... (see 28) 29 Lingtsang Boutique Hotel...... B5 62 Mani Arts...... B3 30 Phuntsok Khasang International 63 Norling Supermarket...... G5 Youth Hostel ...... A2 64 Outlook Outdoor Equipment...... E2 31 Rama Kharpo...... F5 65 Sifang Supermarket...... A2 32 Shambhala Palace...... F4 66 Snow Leopard Carpet 33 Shangbala Hotel ...... B3 Industries...... B3 34 Snowlands Hotel...... B3 67 Tanva...... F4 35 Thangka Hotel...... A4 68 Tromsikhang Market ...... D3

construction of the Jokhang (right) and the FIRST FLOOR Potala, alongside performances of Tibetan At this point you should return clockwise to opera, yak dances, wrestling, stone weight- the rear of the ground fl oor (if you did not do lifting and horse racing. so earlier) and climb the stairs to the upper fl oor of the Jokhang. The upper fl oor of the right. During Losar Tibetan families queue Jokhang’s inner sanctum is also ringed with up in front of the royal silver-embossed 51 chapels, though some of them are closed. animal-headed chang (barley beer) con- As you begin the circuit, you will pass by tainer outside the chapel to make an off er- several newly restored rooms that feature ing of their fi rst batch of home-brew. Sakyamuni (35, 37) accompanied by his Most of the other rooms are hidden be- two main disciples, and one featuring the hind grills, the main exception being the

. The meditation cell of the LHASA

eight medicine buddhas (36) Chapel Chapel of Songtsen SIGHTS of Lhobdrak Namka Gyaltsen (34), or Gampo (46) near the fl oor’s northeastern Lamrin Chapel, near the southeast corner corner, which has an incredible carved features Pabonka Rinpoche, Sakyamuni, doorway smeared with decades’ worth of SIGHTS Tsongkhapa and Atisha (Jowo-je). The cha- yak butter. Murals to the right of the door- pel in the southwest corner is the Chapel way depict the Jokhang. As you walk back of Five Protectors (38) and has some fear- to the stairs look at the unusual row of some statues of Tamdrin (Hayagriva) and carved beams that look like half-lion, half- other protector deities, attended by Tantric monkey creatures. drumming in the anteroom. Next is the Back by the stairs, notice the round door Chapel of the Three Kings (40), dedicated frames of the Chapel of Guru Rinpoche to Songtsen Gampo, Trisong Detsen and (48) and the Chapel of Samvara (49), Ralpachen. Also featured in the room are showing Samvara with consort, which date the statues of Songtsen Gampo’s two wives, back to the 7th century. various ministers, and such symbols of roy- Before you leave the 1st fl oor by the stairs alty as the elephant and horse on either side. in the southeast corner, ascend half a fl oor Also worth a look is the Chapel of Song- up to two statues of the protectress Palden tsen Gampo (41), the principal Songtsen Lhamo (50), one wrathful, the other be- Gampo chapel in the Jokhang. It is posi- nign. There’s also a photo of the Nechung tioned in the centre of the west wall (direct- oracle here. You can sometimes gain access ly above the entry to the ground-fl oor inner to a Tantric chapel up on the 2nd fl oor. sanctum). The bejewelled king, with a tiny After you’ve explored the interior of the buddha protruding from his turban, is ac- Jokhang, it’s defi nitely worth spending companied by his two consorts, his Nepali some time on the roof, with its stunning wife to the left and his Chinese wife to the views and small teahouse. The orange

WALK LIKE A TIBETAN: LHASA’S PILGRIM CIRCUITS

For Tibetan pilgrims the principal points of orientation in Lhasa are the city’s three koras (pilgrimage circuits): the Nangkhor, Barkhor and Lingkhor. For the visitor, all the koras are well worth following, especially during festivals like Saga Dawa (p 22), when the distinction between tourist and pilgrim can become very fi ne indeed. The following routes hold the keys to the soul of the city. Remember always to proceed clockwise. » Nangkhor – this kora encircles the inner precincts of the Jokhang (Map p52 ). » Barkhor – the most famous of Lhasa’s pilgrimage circuits traces the outskirts of the Jokhang and is probably the best introduction to the old town for newcomers (Map p48 ). » Lingkhor – this devotional route (Map p 48 ) traditionally encompassed the en- tirety of the old city. Nowadays the Lingkhor includes a great deal of the modern city but it is still used by pilgrims. You can join the 8km-long circuit anywhere, but the most interesting section is covered in our Lingkhor walking tour (p 68 ). » Potala Kora (Tsekhor) – another popular kora encircles the Potala, passing by an almost continuous circuit of prayer wheels, chörtens (stupas), rock paintings and the Lukhang Temple (Map p54 ). » Other koras – there are also excellent koras at Drepung, Ganden and Sera Monasteries. The Jokhang Approximate Scale 0 25 m 52

43 Closed 45 Closed 44 Nangkhor 42 46 47 FIRST FLOOR 41 LHASA 48 40 39 49 38 37 36 35 34 50

51 Butter 17 18 19 20 Lamps 15 5 16 Inner Sanctum 21 1 14 Prayer 13 Wheels 3 7 22 52 Prayer Incense Forecourt 4 12 Poles Burners 6 11 3 8 10 31 9 23 2 32 33 Stairs to 24 Upper 30 Stairs to Floors 29 28 27 26 25 Upper Floors

Ticket Office

Stairs to Upper Shira Floors Side Courtyard Entrance

building on the north side holds the private fortress-like structure will be a magical quarters of the Dalai Lama. moment that you will remember for a long Finish off the visit with a walk around time. It’s hard to peel your eyes away from the Nangkhor pilgrim path, which encir- the place. cles the Jokhang’s inner sanctum. If you’re The Potala is a structure of massive pro- not exhausted, you can have a brief look at portions, an awe-inspiring place to visit, the Drölma Chapel (51), featuring Drölma but still many visitors come away slightly fl anked by her green and white manifesta- disappointed. Unlike the Jokhang, which tions and others of her 21 manifestations. hums with vibrant activity, the Potala lies Pilgrims sometimes pop into the Guru dormant like a huge museum, and the life- Rinpoche Chapel (52), a series of three in- lessness of the highly symbolic building terconnected shrines stuff ed with images of constantly reminds visitors that the Dalai Guru Rinpoche, at the back of the kora. Lama has been forced to take his govern- ment into exile. It’s a modern irony that the THE POTALA  ་ཏ་ལ་ 布达拉宫 Potala now hums with large numbers of do- Lhasa’s cardinal landmark, the Pota- mestic tourists staring with wonder at the la (Bùdálā Gōng; Map p54 ; admission Y100; building that the generation before them h9.30am-3pm before 1 May, 9am-3.30pm after tried to destroy. 1 May, interior chapels close 4.30pm) is one of the great wonders of world architecture. History As has been the case with centuries of Marpo Ri, the 130m-high ‘Red Hill’, which pilgrims before you, the fi rst sight of the commands a view of all of Lhasa, was the site of King Songtsen Gampo’s palace dur- The Jokhang 53 Entrance 28 Chapel of the Hidden Jowo 1 Sino-Tibetan Treaty Stele 29 Chapel of the Seven Buddhas 2 Smallpox Stele and Ancient 30 ChapeloftheNineBuddhasof Willow Tree Longevity (Tsepame) 31 Chapel of the Kings

Ground Floor 32 Songtsen Gampo Statue LHASA SIGHTS 3 Guardian Kings 33 Jowo Jampa Statue 4 Courtyard

5 Throne of the Dalai Lamas First Floor SIGHTS 6 Naga Chapel (Lukhang) 34 Chapel of Lhobdak Namka 7 Nojin Chapel Gyaltsen (Lamrin Chapel) 8 Jampa Statue 35 Chapel of Sakyamuni 9 Jampa Statue 36 Chapel of Eight Medicine 10 Jampa Statue Buddhas 11 Guru Rinpoche Statue 37 Chapel of Sakyamuni (Tupwang 12 Chenresig Statue Lhakhang) 13 Guru Rinpoche Statue 38 Chapel of Five Protectors 14 Chapel of Tsongkhapa & His 39 Anteroom Disciples 40 Chapel of the Three Kings 15 Chapel of the Buddha of Infinite (Dachok Lhakhang) Light (Öpagme) 41 Chapel of Songtsen Gampo 16 Chörten (Chögyel Lhakhang) 17 Chapel of the Eight Medicine 42 Chapel of Chenresig Buddhas 43 Chapel of Sakyamuni (Tairab 18 Chapel of Chenresig Lhakhang) (Avalokiteshvara) 44 Prayer Wheel 19 Chapel of Jampa 45 Chapel of Guru Rinpoche & 20 Chapel of Tsongkhapa Sakyamuni 21 Chapel of the Buddha of Infinite 46 Chapel of Songtsen Gampo Light 47 Zhelre Lakhang (Inaccessible) 22 Chapel of Jowo Sakyamuni 48 Chapel of Guru Rinpoche 23 Chapel of Jampa 49 Chapel of Samvara 24 Chapel of Chenresig Riding a 50 Statues Lion 25 Guru Rinpoche Shrine and Rock Other Chapels Painting 51 Drölma Chapel 26 Chapel of Tsepame 52 Guru Rinpoche Chapel 27 Chapel of Jampa ing the mid-7th century, long before the Red Palace, or Marpo Podrang, are sub- construction of the present-day Potala. ject to some dispute. It is agreed that the There is little to indicate what this palace fi fth Dalai Lama died in 1682 and that his looked like, but it is clear that royal prec- death was concealed until the completion edent was a major factor in the fi fth Dalai of the Red Palace 12 years later. In some Lama’s choice of this site when he decided accounts, the work was initiated by the re- to move the seat of his Gelugpa government gent who governed Tibet from 1679 to 1703, here from Drepung Monastery. and foundations were laid in 1690 (after Work began fi rst on the White Palace, or the fi fth Dalai Lama’s death). In other ac- Kharpo Podrang, in 1645. The nine-storey counts, the Red Palace was conceived by structure was completed three years later, the fi fth Dalai Lama as a funerary chörten and in 1649 the fi fth Dalai Lama moved and work was well under way at the time from Drepung Monastery to his new resi- of his death. In any event, the death of the dence. However, the circumstances sur- fi fth Dalai Lama was not announced until rounding the construction of the larger he was put to rest in the newly completed Entry Procedures 54 Red Palace. A quota system is now in place to cope with There is also some scholarly debate con- the huge numbers of domestic tourists try- cerning the Potala’s name. The most prob- ing to visit the Potala during the summer able explanation is that it derives from the months. From mid-April to November you Tibetan name for Chenresig’s ‘pure land’, or need to go to an office (h9am-6pm) at the paradise, also known as Potala. Given that southwestern gate by noon the day before

LHASA Songtsen Gampo and the Dalai Lamas are your intended visit. Present your passport believed to be reincarnations of Chenresig, and get a reservation slip detailing a time this connection is compelling. for your visit the next day. It can help to Since its construction, the Potala has have your guide with you. One person can

been the home of each of the successive Da- get slips for four people, so earn some good lai Lamas, although since construction of karma and take your friends’ passports. Af- the Norbulingka summer palace in the late ter 2800 slips have been allotted (only 700 18th century, it served as a winter residence of which go to independent tourists) you’ll only. It was also the seat of the Tibetan gov- be turned away, so start queuing early in ernment, and with chapels, schools, jails peak seasons. and even tombs for the Dalai Lamas, it was During the winter months (December to virtually a self-contained world. mid-April) you can just buy a ticket on the The Potala was shelled briefl y during the spot. Larger groups are offi cially limited 1959 popular uprising against the Chinese to just one hour inside the Potala, which but the damage was not extensive. The Po- really isn’t enough time. Individuals who tala was spared again during the Cultural book their own time slot at the western of- Revolution, reportedly at the insistence fi ce face no such time restrictions. of Zhou Enlai, the Chinese premier, who The next day head to the main southern is said to have deployed his own troops entrance 30 minutes before your allotted to protect it. The Potala was reopened to time (groups enter via the eastern gate) and the public in 1980 and fi nal touches to the then proceed through the rebuilt village of US$4 million renovations were completed Shöl up into the palace. Halfway up is the in 1995. offi ce where you actually buy your ticket. From the roof you wind down into the laby-

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66A 666666B 6C D 6 rinthine bowels of the Potala, before exit- ing at the rear of the palace and descend- THE SACRED GOAT 55 ing to either the Lukhang or the western entrance. Much of your visit will be in one When Princess Wencheng chose the huge shuffl ing queue. site of the Jokhang, she chose Lake Photography of the interior of the Potala Wothang (perhaps because she was is forbidden and all rooms are wired with still upset at having to live in barbar- ian Tibet). The lake was eventually motion sensors and video cameras. LHASA fi lled in, but it is said that a well in the SIGHTS SHÖL precincts of the Jokhang still draws Nestled at the southern foot of Marpo Ri, its waters from those of the old lake. the former village of SIGHTS Shöl (admission Y30) Over the years, many legends have was once Lhasa’s red-light , as well emerged around the task of fi lling in as the location of a prison, a printing press Lake Wothang. The most prominent of and some ancillary government build- these is the story of how the lake was ings. Reconstructed buildings include an fi lled by a sacred white goat (the Ti- inn supposedly favoured by the licentious betan word for goat, ra, is etymologi- sixth Dalai Lama (see the box, p 281 ), the cally connected with the original name residence of the monk police chief and an for Lhasa – Rasa). Look for a small exhibition hall. Most people give the build- image of the goat peeking out from ings a miss. the Chapel of Jampa on the south wall Entry to the Potala is up two steep ac- of the Jokhang’s ground-fl oor inner cess ramps that will soon leave you wheez- sanctum. ing in the oxygen-depleted air (Shöl literally means ‘at the base’). The stairs lead past the ticket offi ce to the large , the Deyang Shar external courtyard of the White Palace. At the top of the triple stairs leading up to the Around the Potala White Palace look out for the golden hand- æ Top Sights prints of the fi fth Dalai Lama on the wall to Lukhang ...... C1 the left, and murals to the north depicting Palha Lu-puk...... B3 Songtsen Gampo’s original Potala and the Potala Kora...... B2 construction of the Jokhang. Potala Palace...... C2 ROOF OF THE WHITE PALACE As you arrive on the roof, head right for æ Sights the private quarters of the 13th and 14th 1 Chagpo Ri Rock Carvings ...... A3 Dalai Lamas. The fi rst room you come to is 2 Chörten (Former West Gate) ...... B2 the throne room (Simchung Nyiwoi Shar), 3 Drubthub Nunnery ...... B3 where the Dalai Lamas would receive offi - 4 Eastern (Group) Potala Entrance...... C2 cial guests. The large picture on the left of 5 Gesar Ling ...... A2 the throne is of the 13th Dalai Lama; the 6 Golden Yaks Statue...... A2 matching photo of the present Dalai Lama 7 Kunde Ling ...... A2 has been removed. There are some fi ne 8 Nun's Chapel...... D2 murals here, including a depiction of Bod- 9 Phurbu Chok Hermitage Mani hgaya (where the Buddha achieved enlight- Lhakhang...... D2 enment), the Chinese Buddhist mountain 10 Potala Viewpoint...... B2 Wǔtái Shān and the mythical paradise of 11 Rock Paintings...... C2 Shambhala (north of the entry). 12 Stele...... C2 The trail continues clockwise into the re- 13 Three Chörtens...... C1 ception hall (Dhaklen Paldseg) from whose hidden balcony the Dalai Lama would have ûü Drinking watched festival dances performed in the 14 Bangda ...... A2 courtyard below. Next comes the medita- 15 Easy Day...... A1 tion room, which still displays the ritual 16 Teahouse...... D1 implements of the present Dalai Lama on 17 Teahouse...... C1 a small table to the side of the room. Pro- þ Shopping tector gods here include Nagpo Chenpo 18 Baiyi Supermarket...... D2 (Mahakala), the and Palden Lhamo. The fi nal room, the bedroom of 56 DEMONESS-SUBDUING TEMPLES

Buddhism’s interaction with the pre-existing Bön – a shamanistic folk of spirits, ghosts and demons – combined with the wild and inhospitable nature of the Tibetan terrain has led to many metaphoric fables about Buddhism’s taming of Tibet. The story of the early introduction of Buddhism to Tibet is represented by the story of a vast, supine demoness whose body straddled the entire plateau. LHASA It was Princess Wencheng, the Chinese wife of King Songtsen Gampo, who divined the presence of this demoness. Through Chinese geomantic calculations she estab- lished that the heart of the demoness lay beneath a lake in the centre of Lhasa, while her torso and limbs lay far away in the outer dominions of the high plateau. As in all such fables, the demoness can be seen as a symbol, of both the physical hardships of Tibet and the existing Bön clergy’s hostility towards Buddhism; both had to be tamed before Buddhism could take root here. It was decided that the demoness would have to be pinned down. The fi rst task was to drain the lake in Lhasa of its water (read life-blood of the demo- ness) and build a central temple that would replace the heart of the demoness with a Buddhist heart. The temple built there was the Jokhang. A stake through the heart was not enough to put a demoness of this size out of action, however, and a series of lesser temples, in three concentric rings, were conceived to pin the extremities of the demoness. There were four temples in each of these rings. The fi rst are known as the runo temples and form a protective circle around Lhasa, pinning down the demoness’ hips and shoulders. Two of these are Trandruk Monastery in the Yarlung Valley (p 122 ) and Katsel Monastery (p 106) on the way to Drigung. The second group, known as the tandrul temples, pin the knees and elbows of the demoness. Buchu Monastery (p 201 ) near Bayi in eastern Tibet is one of these. And the fi nal group, known as yandrul tem- ples, pin the hands and feet. These last temples are found as far away as Bhutan (Paro and Bumthang) and Sìchuān, though the location of two of them is unknown. You can see a representative image of the demoness and the temples that pin her down in the Tibet Museum (p 63).

the Dalai Lama (Chimey Namgyal), has principal Tantric deities of the Gelugpa or- some personal eff ects of the Dalai Lama on der. These are essentially three-dimensional show, such as his bedside clock. The mural versions of the you see painted on above the bed is of Tsongkhapa, the found- everywhere and act as meditation er of the Gelugpa order of which the Dalai maps for the mind. Unfortunately you can Lama is the head. The locked door leads no longer walk around to see the fi ne black- into the Dalai Lama’s private bathroom. ened murals near the throne of the seventh Dalai Lama. RED PALACE You can start the tour of the main palace The Chapel of the Victory over the building from the top. On the third fl oor, Three Worlds (Sasum Namgyal) houses a library and displays examples of Manchu the fi rst room is the Chapel of Jampa (Jam- khang), which contains an exquisite image texts. The main statue is a golden thousand- of Jampa commissioned by the eighth Da- armed Chenresig, while the main thangka lai Lama; it stands opposite the Dalai La- is of the Manchu Chinese emperor Qianlong ma’s throne. To the right of the throne is a dressed in monk’s robes, with accompany- wooden Kalachakra mandala. The walls are ing inscriptions in Tibetan, Chinese, Mon- stacked with the collected works of the fi fth golian and Manchurian. Dalai Lama. The chapel was unfortunately Next, the Chapel of Immortal Happi- damaged in a fi re in 1984 (caused by an elec- ness (Chimey Dedan Kyil) was once the trical fault) and many valuable thangkas residence of the sixth Dalai Lama, Tsang- (religious paintings) were lost. yang Gyatso, whose throne remains; it is now dedicated to Tsepame, the Buddha of Next, the Chapel of Three-Dimensional Longevity, who sits by the window. Next Mandalas (Loilang Khang) houses spectac- ular jewel-encrusted mandalas of the three to him in the corner is the de- ity (Tsechigma), with an ostrich- of coracle rafts halfway up the wall add feather hat and a single fang. an intimate touch. Below is a mural of the 57 From here a locked corridor leads off the Potala itself. There are also nine statues of main circuit to a gallery that overlooks the Tsepame here, as well as green and white tomb of the 13th Dalai Lama. You could Drölma. at one time look down on the chörten from Passing the closed Chapel of Sakya- above and then descend to look at it at muni (Zegya Lhakhang), continue to the

ground level, but the room has been closed northwestern corner where you’ll fi nd a LHASA SIGHTS for years. small corridor that leads to King Songtsen Also in the northwest corner is the Lha- Gampo’s meditation chamber (Chogyal and the golden Drupuk), which, along with the Chapel of ma Lhakhang tomb of the SIGHTS Seventh Dalai Lama (Serdung Tashi Obar Arya Lokeshvara on the 3rd fl oor, is one of Khang), constructed in 1757 and encased in the oldest rooms in the Potala. The most half a tonne of gold. To the right stands a important statue is of Songtsen Gampo statue of Kalsang Gyatso, the seventh Dalai himself, to the left of the pillar. To the left is Lama. his minister Tonmi Sambhota (said to have In the northwest corner, steps lead up invented the ) and to the right into the small but important Chapel of are his Chinese and Nepali wives. A statue Arya Lokeshvara (Phagpa Lhakhang). Al- of the king’s Tibetan wife (the only one to legedly this is one of the few corners of the bear a son) is in a cabinet by the door. The Potala that dates from the time of Songtsen fi fth Dalai Lama lurks behind (and also on) Gampo’s 7th-century palace. It is the most the central pillar. Also here is Gar Tsongt- sacred of the Potala’s chapels, and the san- sen, the Tibetan minister who travelled to dalwood image of Arya Lokeshvara inside the Tang court to escort Princess Wencheng is the most revered image housed in the Po- back to Lhasa. Queues for this chapel can tala. The statue is accompanied on the left be long. by the seventh Dalai Lama and Tsongkha- The last three rooms are all linked and pa, and on the right by the fi fth, eighth and are chock-a-block full of 3000 pieces of Chi- ninth Dalai Lamas and the protector Chana nese statuary, many donated by a Khampa Dorje (Vajrapani). Relics include stone foot- businessman in 1995. prints of Guru Rinpoche and Tsongkhapa. You can skip the fi rst fl oor, which has The last two rooms on this fl oor are the been closed to visitors for years and is un- towering, jewel-encrusted tombs of the likely to reopen soon. Eighth and Ninth Dalai Lamas, the former As you round the steps on the ground over 9m tall. fl oor, enter the beautiful assembly hall, If you’re exhausted already (not even half- which is the largest hall in the Potala and is way!), you can rest your legs at a reception its physical centre. Note the fi ne carved pil- area/teahouse in the middle of the second lar heads. The large throne that dominates fl oor. one end of the hall was the throne of the The fi rst of the chapels you come to on sixth Dalai Lama. Four important chapels the 2nd fl oor is the Chapel of Kalachakra frame the hall. (Dukhor Lhakhang), also known as the The fi rst chapel on this fl oor is the Chap- Wheel of Time. It is noted for its stunning el of . Lamrim means literally ‘the three-dimensional mandala, which is over graduated path’, and refers to the graduated 6m in diameter and fi nely detailed with over stages that mark the path to enlightenment. 170 statues. Access to the room is limited. The central fi gure in the chapel is Tsong- The Chapel of Sakyamuni (Thubwang khapa, with whom lamrim texts are usually Lhakhang) houses a library, the throne of associated. Outside the chapel to the left a the seventh Dalai Lama, eight bodhisattvas fi ne mural depicts the Forbidden City, com- and some fi ne examples of gold painted cal- memorating the fi fth Dalai Lama’s visit to ligraphy. the court of Emperor Shunzhi in 1652. In the Chapel of the Nine Buddhas of The next chapel, the long Rigzin Lha- Longevity (Tsepak Lhakhang), look for the khang, is dedicated to eight Indian teachers murals by the left window – the left side who brought various Tantric practices and depicts Tangtong Gyelpo (see p 279 ) and his rituals to Tibet. The central fi gure is a silver celebrated bridge (now destroyed) over the statue of Guru Rinpoche (one of the eight), near Chushul. The images who is fl anked by his consorts Mandarava Red Palace of the Potala Approximate Scale 0 50 m 58

Suggested Route

8 9 10 7

From Roof LHASA 6 To 2nd THIRD FLOOR 1 5 Floor

4 3 2

17

18 19 20

From 3rd Floor To Ground Floor SECOND FLOOR 11 12

16 15 14 13

26

From 2nd Floor 21 25 22 GROUND FLOOR 24

23

and Yeshe Tsogyel (with a turquoise head- In the west wing of the assembly hall dress), as well as statues of the eight teach- is one of the highlights of the Potala, the ers on his left and a further eight statues of awe-inspiring Chapel of the Dalai Lamas’ him in diff erent manifestations on the right. Tombs (Serdung Zamling Gyenjikhang). As you exit the chapel, take an up-close look The hall is dominated by the huge 12.6m- at the fi ne wall murals. high chörten of the great fi fth Dalai Lama, Red Palace of the Potala 59 Third Floor 13 Chapel of Sakyamuni 1 Chapel of Jampa (Jamkhang) (Thubwang Lhakhang) 2 Chapel of Three-Dimensional 14 ChapeloftheNineBuddhasof Mandalas (Loilang Khang) Longevity (Tsepak 3 Chapel of the Victory over the Lhakhang)

Three Worlds (Sasum 15 Treasures of the Potala LHASA SIGHTS Namgyal) Exhibition 4 Chapel of Immortal Happiness 16 Chapel of Sakyamuni (Zegya SIGHTS

(Chimey Dedan Kyil) Lhakhang) SIGHTS 5 Tomb of the 13th Dalai Lama 17 King Songtsen Gampo's 6 Lhama Lhakhang Meditation Chamber 7 Tomb of the Seventh Dalai Lama (Chogyal Drupuk) (Serdung Tashi Obar 18 Kunsang Jedrokhang Khang) 19 Lima Lhakhang 8 Chapel of Arya Lokeshvara 20 Lima Lhakhang (Phagpa Lhakhang) 9 Tomb of the Eighth Dalai Lama Ground Floor (Serdung Gelek Siber 21 Assembly Hall Khang) 22 Chapel of Lamrim 10 Tomb of the Ninth Dalai Lama 23 Rigzin Lhakhang (Serdung Sasum Ngongka 24 Chapel of the Dalai Lamas' Khang) Tombs (Serdung Zamling Gyenjikhang) Second Floor 25 Throne 11 Rest Area 26 Chapel of the Holy Born 12 Chapel of Kalachakra (Dukhor (Trungrab Lhakhang) Lhakhang) gilded with some 3700kg of gold. Flanking and an afternoon excursion to some of the it are two smaller chörtens containing the temples nearby. One of the best ways to 10th (right) and 12th (left) Dalai Lamas, visit the following sights is on our Lingkhor who both died as children. Richly em- walking tour – see p68 . bossed, the chörtens represent the concen- trated wealth of an entire nation. One of the Potala Kora WALK The pilgrim path that encircles the foot precious stones is a pearl said to have been of the Potala (Map p 54) makes for a nice discovered in an elephant’s brains and thus, walk before or after the main event. From in a wonderful piece of understatement, the western chörten (formerly the west ‘considered a rarity’. Eight other chörtens gate to the city), follow the prayer wheels represent the eight major events in the life to the northwest corner, marked by three of the Buddha. large chörtens. There’s a particularly nice The last chapel is the Chapel of the Holy teahouse here. (Trungrab Lhakhang). Firstly, in the Born The northeast corner is home to several corner, is the statue and chörten of the 11th rock paintings and a delightful prayer hall Dalai Lama, who died at the age of 17. There alive with the murmurs of chanting nuns. are also statues of the eight medicine bud- Just past here, spin the large prayer wheel dhas, a central golden Sakyamuni and the of the recently rebuilt Phurbu Chok Her- fi fth Dalai Lama (silver), and then Chenre- mitage Mani Lhakhang and then swing sig, Songtsen Gampo, Dromtönpa (founder past the Chinese-style square, where pil- of the Kadampa order) and the fi rst four grims often prostrate in front of the Potala. Dalai Lamas. Look out for the three 18th-century doring AROUND THE POTALA (stele); the two to the north side of the road A morning visit to the Potala can easily be commemorate victories over the Central combined with a circuit of the Potala kora Asian Dzungars (left) and Nepali Gorkhas (right). King Trisong Detsen is said to have erected the single southern obelisk in the The Lukhang is celebrated for its 2nd- 60 eighth century. and 3rd-fl oor murals, which date from the 18th century. Bring a torch (fl ashlight). The Drubthub Nunnery & Palha Lu-puk 2nd-fl oor murals tell a story made famous NUNNERY & TEMPLE by a Tibetan opera, while the murals on the Southwest of the Potala an unmarked road 3rd fl oor depict diff erent themes on each leads around the eastern side of Chagpo Ri, of the walls – Indian yogis demonstrating the hill that faces Marpo Ri, site of the Po-

LHASA yogic positions (west), 84 mahisaddhas or tala. Take this road past stone carvers and masters of Buddhism (east), and the life rock paintings to (Map Drubthub Nunnery cycle as perceived by Tibetan Buddhists p 54). The nunnery is dedicated to Tangtong (north), with the gods of , the Tibetan Gyelpo, the 15th-century bridge-maker, underworld, occupying its centre. Look for medic and inventor of Tibetan opera, who the wonderful attention to detail, down to established the original nunnery on the top the hairy legs of the sadhus and the pat- of Chagpo Ri. Gyelpo’s white-haired statue terns on the clothes. graces the nunnery’s main hall. The 3rd fl oor contains a statue of an After the nunnery, head next door to 11-headed Chenresig and a meditation the Palha Lu-puk (Map p54; admission Y20; room used by the Dalai Lamas. To reach h , where stairs lead up to an at- 8am-8pm) the 3rd fl oor, walk clockwise around the mospheric cave temple said to have been outside of the building and enter from the the 7th-century meditational retreat of back via a fl ight of stairs (access was closed King Songtsen Gampo. during our last visit). Finish off a visit with The main attraction of the cave is its re- a kora of the island. lief rock carvings, some of which are over a For a detailed commentary on the murals thousand years old, making them the oldest check out Ian Baker and Thomas Laird’s religious images in Lhasa. Altogether there coff ee-table book The Dalai Lama’s Secret are over 70 carvings of bodhisattvas in Temple: Tantric Wall Paintings from Tibet. the cave and on the cave’s central column; the oldest carvings are generally the ones Parma Ri TEMPLES lowest on the cave walls. Songtsen Gampo Several hundred metres west of Chagpo is depicted on the west side. Ri, Parma Ri (Map p 54) is a much smaller The yellow building above the Palha Lu- hill with a couple of interesting sights. At puk is a chapel that gives access to the less the foot of the hill, close to Beijing Zhon- interesting meditation cave (drub-puk) of glu, is one of Lhasa’s four former royal King Songtsen Gampo’s Chinese wife, Prin- temples, Kunde Ling (Map p54 ; admission Y10; cess Wencheng. h9am-7pm). The ling (royal) temples were appointed by the fi fth Dalai Lama, and it Lukhang TEMPLE was from one of them that regents of Tibet h (Map p54; admission Y10, photos Y50; 9am- were generally appointed. There are only a The Lukhang is a little-visited temple 5pm) couple of restored chapels open, but it’s a on a small island in a lake, behind the Po- friendly place and worth a visit. Look for tala. The lake is in the recently remodelled the upstairs mural of the original Kunde and very pleasant Zang Gyab Lukhang Park Ling, 80% of which has been destroyed. (Map p54 ). On the north side of Parma Ri is the The lake was created during the con- h , a Chi- struction of the Potala. Earth used for Gesar Ling (Map p54; 9.30am-7pm) nese construction that dates back to 1793 mortar was excavated from here, leaving a and was recently renovated. It is the only depression that was later fi lled with water. Chinese-style temple in Lhasa. The main Lu (also known as naga) are subterranean red-walled temple has a Chinese-style dragon-like spirits that were thought to in- statue of Guandi, the Chinese God of War, habit the area, and the Lukhang, or Chapel while a separate yellow chapel holds the of the Dragon King, was built by the sixth Tibetan equivalent, the mythical warrior Dalai Lama to appease them (and also to Gesar, along with statues of Jampelyang, use as a retreat). You can see Luyi Gyalpo, Chana Dorje (Vajrapani) and Chenresig. the naga king, at the rear of the ground fl oor of the Lukhang. He is riding an ele- Chagpo Ri Rock Carvings ROCK CARVINGS phant, and protective snakes rise from be- (Map p54 ; admission Y10; hdawn-dusk) This hind his head. The naga spirits were fi nally hidden corner of old Lhasa features over interred in the nearby Palha Lu-puk. 5000 painted rock carvings that were cre- ated on the back side of Chagpo Ri over the lower half of the statue was discovered in course of 1000 years. Pilgrims perform full 1983 in a Lhasa rubbish tip and the head 61 body prostrations in front of the images, was discovered in Beǐjīng’s Forbidden City beside several rooms full of glowing but- and brought back to Lhasa by the 10th Pan- ter lamps, while nearby stalls sell pilgrim chen Lama. accessories like butter lamps and tsa-tsas As you exit the Ramoche, look for a (stamped clay icons). At the far end of the doorway just to the right by a collection of

courtyard the trail is a collection of stone yak-butter and incense stalls, leading to a LHASA SIGHTS carvers and a large chörten, built entirely of delightful chapel, the Tsepak Lhakhang. the carvers’ mani stones. The central image is Tsepame, fl anked by Jampa and Sakyamuni. There are smaller SIGHTS RAMOCHE TEMPLE ར་ ་ ་ 小昭寺 statues of Dorje Chang () and The sister temple to the Jokhang, the Ram- Marmedze (Dipamkara), and a protector oche (Xiǎozhāo Sì; Map p44 ; admission Y20; chapel next door. This hidden corner is very h8am-4.30pm) was constructed around the popular with pilgrims. same time. It was originally built to house the Jowo Sakyamuni image brought to OTHER TEMPLES Tibet by Princess Wencheng but some- Down the alleys off Beijing Donglu are fi ve time in the eighth century the image was obscure temples, which can be visited if swapped for an image of Jowo Mikyöba (Ak- you’ve seen everything else: shobhya), brought to Tibet in the 7th cen- tury as part of the dowry of King Songtsen Tsome Ling TEMPLE One of the four ling temples of Lhasa (along Gampo’s Nepali wife, Princess Bhrikuti. By with Kunde Ling and Tengye Ling), this the mid-15th century the temple had be- small site (Map p 48) is the most interesting come Lhasa’s Upper Tantric College. It was of the three. To the east of the residential badly damaged by Red Guards during the courtyard is the Kharpo Podrang (White , but the complex has Palace), built in 1777, and to the west is since been restored with Swiss assistance. the Marpo Podrang (Red Palace), built at As you enter the temple, past pilgrims the beginning of the 19th century. Both doing full-body prostrations and the fi rst buildings have fi ne murals and are well fre- of two inner koras, you’ll see a protector quented by pilgrims who haul away day and to the left, featuring masks and chapel night on the rope-pulled prayer wheels. Of puppets on the ancient pillars and an en- equal interest is the small embroidery and cased image of the divination Dorje Tibetan mattress workshop on site. Yudronma covered in beads on a horse. The main chapel is full of fearsome protector Tengye Ling TEMPLE deities in yabyum pose, as befi tting a Tan- This obscure and rarely visited Nyingmapa- tric temple. temple (Map p48 ) is dedicated to the The fabulously ornate Mikyöba (Ak- central red-faced deity Tseumar, as well as shobhya) image can be seen in the inner Pehar (a protector linked to , right of Tsangkhang, protected by the four guard- the central statue) and Tamdrin (Hayagri- ian kings and a curtain of chain mail, which va). The crates of báijiǔ (rice wine) stacked pilgrims rub for good luck. The image rep- in the corner are there to refi ll the silver cup resents Sakyamuni at the age of eight. The in Tseumar’s hand; apparently he’s in a bet- ter mood if constantly plastered. The entire chapel smells like a distillery. Look for the RAMOCHE LAM wonderful old photo of the Dalai Lama’s pet elephant, stabled in the Lukhang be- Pedestrian-only Ramoche Lam hind the Potala. The chapel is hidden in the (aka Xiaozhaosi Lu) is probably the backstreets west of the Snowlands Hotel most interesting street in Lhasa, jam- and is hard to fi nd; enter through the gate- packed with teahouses, restaurants way marked by juniper and báijiǔ-sellers, and stalls selling everything from just south of the Tsen Bar. saddles, traditional clothes and Tibetan-style tents to handmade Shide Tratsang TEMPLE potato chips, top-grade tsampa Once one of the six principal temples encir- (roasted-barley fl our) and Tibetan cling the Jokhang, this badly ruined temple scriptures. It’s well worth a stroll. (Map p48 ) is connected to . It’s in a housing courtyard, down a back al- 1933) was responsible for the three palaces 62 ley near Tashi I restaurant, and remains a in the northwest corner of the park, and the rare example of what Lhasa looked like be- 14th (present) Dalai Lama built the New fore the renovation teams moved in. Look Summer Palace. for the brown walls. In 1959, the made his escape from the Norbulingka disguised as Rigsum Lhakhang TEMPLE a Tibetan soldier (see p287 ). All the palaces A small chapel (Map p 48) hidden in a hous-

LHASA of the Norbulingka were damaged by Chi- ing courtyard southwest of Barkhor Sq, this nese artillery fi re in the popular uprising is dedicated to the Rigsum Gonpo trinity of that followed. At the time, the compound Jampelyang, Chenresig and Chana Dorje was surrounded by some 30,000 Tibetans (Vajrapani). Look for the line of prayer determined to defend the life of their spiri- wheels disappearing down the alley. tual leader. Repairs have been undertaken Pode Kangtsang TEMPLE but have failed to restore the palaces to their Die-hards can track down this hard-to-fi nd full former glory. chapel (Map p48 ) in the south of the old PALACE OF THE EIGHTH DALAI LAMA town, with its old upper-fl oor murals and This palace (also known as Kelsang Po- large thangkas. It’s accessed from the south. drang) is the fi rst you come to. Every Dalai THE NORBULINGKA Lama from the eighth to the 13th has used 罗布林卡 it as a summer palace. Only the main au-  ར་ ་ ང་ཁ་ dience hall is open; it features 65 hanging The summer palace of the Dalai Lamas, thangkas and some lovely painted wood. the Norbulingka (Luóbùlínkǎ; Map p44 ; Minzu Lu; admission Y60, Tibetans Y3; h9am-6.30pm) NEW SUMMER PALACE is in the western part of town. It ranks The New Summer Palace (Takten Migyü well behind the other points of interest in Podrang) in the centre of the park was built and around Lhasa. The gardens are poorly by the present Dalai Lama between 1954 tended and the lifeless palaces themselves and 1956 and is the most interesting of the are something of an anticlimax, since most Norbulingka palaces. You can only enter rooms are closed to the public. Avoid the the walled complex from its east side. The fi rst of the rooms is the thoroughly depressing zoo (admission Y10). Dalai La- This said, the Norbulingka is worth a ma’s audience chamber. Note the wall visit if you don’t mind the entry fee, and the murals, which depict the park is a great place to be during festival in 301 scenes that fl ow in rows from left to times and public holidays. In the seventh right. As you stand with your back to the lunar month of every year, the Norbulingka window, the murals start on the left wall is crowded with picnickers for the Shötun with Sakyamuni and show the mythical festival, when traditional Tibetan opera beginnings of the Tibetan people (from the performances are held here. union of a and a monkey in the Sheldrak Cave), as well as the fi rst fi eld in History Tibet (representing the introduction of ag- The seventh Dalai Lama founded the fi rst riculture). The wall in front of you depicts summer palace in the Norbulingka (whose the building of the circular monastery of name literally means ‘jewel park’) in 1755. Samye, as well as Ganden, Drepung and Rather than use the palace simply as a other monasteries to the right. The right retreat, he decided to use the wooded en- wall depicts the construction of the Potala virons as a summer base from which to and Norbulingka. administer the country, a practice that was Next come the Dalai Lama’s private repeated by each of the succeeding Dalai quarters, which consist of a meditation Lamas. The grand procession of the Dalai chamber and a bedroom. The rooms have Lama’s entourage relocating from the Potala been maintained almost exactly the same as to the Norbulingka became one of the high- the Dalai Lama left them, and apart from lights of the Lhasa year. the usual Buddhist images they contain the The eighth Dalai Lama (1758–1804) ini- occasional surprise (a Soviet radio, among tiated more work on the Norbulingka, ex- other things). panding the gardens and digging the lake, The assembly hall, where the Dalai which can be found south of the New Sum- Lama would address heads of state, is mer Palace. The 13th Dalai Lama (1876– home to a gold throne backed by wonder- ful cartoon-style murals of the Dalai Lama’s more interesting third hall covers Tibetan court (left, at the back). Look out for British script (with some fi ne 11th-century birch- 63 representative Hugh Richardson in a trilby paper scriptures), opera masks, musical hat, and several Mongolian ambassadors. instruments, divination guides, medical The right wall depicts the Dalai Lamas. The thangkas and statuary. The next hall con- fi rst fi ve lack the Wheel of Law, symbolising centrates on thangkas. The fi nal hall has their lack of governmental authority. Last a good display of folk handicrafts, rang-

are the suites of the Dalai Lama’s mother, ing from coracle boats to nomad tents, LHASA whose bathroom sink overfl ows with off er- with some fi ne traditional Tibetan locks ACTIVITIES ings of one-mao notes. and leather bags used for carrying salt or South of the New Summer Palace is the tsampa. ACTIVITIES artifi cial lake commissioned by the eighth The top fl oor has an inappropriate col- Dalai Lama. The only pavilion open here lection of Chinese jade and a hall of stuff ed at the time of research was the personal Tibetan wildlife, with a collection of python retreat of the 13th Dalai Lama in the and leopard skins that were confi scated southwestern corner, featuring a library, a from local poachers. Photos are not allowed thousand-armed Chenresig statue, and a but everyone takes them anyway. stuff ed tiger in the corner! The seats over- looking the duck pond off er a wonderful 2 Activities spot for a picnic. Braille Without Borders Blind Medical SUMMER PALACE OF THE 13TH DALAI LAMA Massage Clinic MASSAGE The summer palace of the 13th Dalai Lama (Map p48 ; %632 0870; 3rd fl , Room 59, Door 42, (Chensek Podrang) is in the western section Beijing Donglu; h10am-10pm) This worthy en- of the Norbulingka, northwest of the awful terprise, set up by the Braille Without Bor- zoo. ders organisation (p 345 ), off ers hour-long The ground-fl oor assembly hall is stuff ed traditional massages (Y80 to Y100) by blind full of various buggies, palanquins and bi- therapists; it’s perfect if you’re recovering cycles. The fi ne murals depicting the life of from a trek or a long overland trip stuff ed in Sakyamuni are hard to see without a torch. the back of a 4WD. The centre is in a court- Nearby, the smaller Kelsang Dekyi Pal- yard, down an alley across from the Tashi I ace was also built by the 13th Dalai Lama Restaurant. Call in advance. Ask at the Ky- but is closed. ichu Hotel if you can’t fi nd it.

T I B E T M U S E U M Tenzin Blind Massage Centre MASSAGE % 藏博物馆 (Map p48; 634 7591; Zangyiyuan Lu/Men- འ མས་ ན་ཁང་ tsikhang Lam; h10am-11pm) A good private This grand-looking museum (Xīzàng Bówù- enterprise set up by a graduate of the guǎn; Map p44 ; Minzu Nanlu; %681 2210; admis- Braille Without Borders clinic. Choose be- sion free; h9am-6.30pm May-Oct, 10.30am-5pm tween Chinese (Y80 per hour) or Tibetan Nov-Apr), in the west of town just opposite oil massage (Y100), the former clothed, the the Norbulingka, isn’t too bad as long as latter naked (don’t be self-conscious, they’re you can fi lter out the blatant propaganda. blind). A useful audio tour (Y20) is available if you don’t mind the odd pronunciation (Da-lai z Festivals & Events La-maaarr!). If at all possible, try to time your visit to The halls start logically with prehistory, Lhasa with one of the city’s main festivals highlighting the Neolithic sites around (p 21 ). The Saga Dawa festival in particu- and rock paintings at Rutok lar sees huge numbers of pilgrims making and Nam-tso, mixed in with a few oddi- circuits around the Barkhor late into the ties (5000-year-old grain; 4000-year-old night. Follow the locals’ cue and change Y10 musk deer teeth…). The ‘Tibet is Inalien- into a fat wad of one-mao notes to hand out able in History’ hall is full of boring seals as alms during the walk. and misleading Chinese political spin, but A couple of months later, during the it’s worth seeking out the kingdom Chökor Düchen festival, Lhasa residents shields and the 18th-century gold urn and trek up to the summit of Gambo Ütse Ri, the ivory slips (exhibit No 310) that were used high peak behind Drepung Monastery. In by the Chinese to recognise their version of the olden days even the Dalai Lama would the (see the box, p144 ). The ascend the peak, riding atop a white yak. 4 Sleeping oKyichu Hotel HOTEL $$ 64 The Tibetan eastern end of town is easily ( 吉曲饭店; Jíqǔ Fàndiàn; Map p48 ; the most interesting place to be based, with %633 1541; www.kyichuhotel.com; 149/18 accommodation options in all budgets. Beijing Donglu; r standard/deluxe Y280/320; Apart from the hotels listed here there are aiW) The recently (2010) renovated Kyi- dozens of shiny, characterless Chinese-style chu is a friendly and well-run choice that’s hotels scattered around town. You might very popular with repeat travellers to Tibet.

LHASA fi nd yourself in one of these if you arrive on Rooms are simple but pleasant, with Ti- a tour or book a hotel online. betan carpets and private bathrooms, but Prices given here (and throughout this the real selling points are the location and excellent service. There’s also a good res- book) apply to the high season from May to October. We have listed the full rack rate, fol- taurant, a small library of English books lowed by the discount we were off ered dur- and – that rarest of Lhasa commodities – ing high season. Between mid-October and a peaceful garden courtyard (with wi-fi April you can expect still deeper discounts. and espresso coff ee). Ask for a garden-view Several new Chinese hostels and family- room at the back, as these are the quietest. run guesthouses, popular with the ever- Reservations are strongly recommended. increasing number of Chinese backpackers, Credit cards accepted. are giving the long-established Tibetan Yak Hotel HOTEL $$ places a run for their money. Note that ( 亚宾馆; Yà Bīnguǎn; Map p48 ; %630 0008; most of the budget places don’t accept res- fax 630 0191; 100 Beijing Donglu; dm Y30-40, ervations. Several more top-end hotels are d Y450-650, VIP Y880, discounts of 30%-50%; planned in Lhasa over the coming years, ai) The ever-popular Yak has matured with a Radisson and Hyatt mentioned. in recent years from backpacker hang-out

LHASA’S BOUTIQUE HOTELS

A welcome recent trend in the Lhasa hotel scene is the collection of new hotels that has restored and converted several of Lhasa’s crumbling historic courtyards into stylish atmospheric luxury lodgings. The following places ooze historic charm and traditional Tibetan decor.

oYabshi Phunkhang BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ ( 尧西平康; Yáoxī Píngkāng; Map p 48 ; %632 8885; www.yabshiphunkhang.com; Beijing Donglu; deluxe/ste Y1000/1800, discounts of up to 60%; aW) Architectural integrity is rare in Lhasa these days, which makes the four-year restoration of this mid-19th-century man- sion all the more special. The complex was built for the parents of the 11th Dalai Lama (yabshi is the title given to the parents of a Dalai Lama) and the collection of 21 large, well-equipped rooms linked by lovely courtyards and sitting areas is both stylish and very Tibetan. There’s also a good restaurant, cafe and cosy winter bar.

House of Shambhala BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ ( 香巴拉府; Xiāngbālā Fǔ; Map p 48 ; %632 6533; www.shambhalaserai.com; 7 Jiri Erxiang; d incl breakfast Y675-1015; i) Hidden in the old town in a historic Tibetan building, the romantic, boutique-style Shambhala mixes the earthy charm of the old town with good food and spa treatments, making it perfect for couples who prefer atmosphere over mod-cons. The nine rooms, decorated in natural wood and stone with antique Tibetan furniture, vary only in size. The spa even off ers a herbal bath in holy water blessed by a local lama, and the hotel’s soft furnishings are made in an on-site workshop by disad- vantaged Tibetans. The fabulous rooftop terrace is a great to place relax over a Baileys and masala chai cocktail and pet the resident huskies. Just don’t take it as seriously as the owners seem to.

Shambhala Palace BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ ( 香巴拉宫; Xiāngbālā Gōng; Map p 48; %630 7779; www.shambhalaserai.com; 16 Taibeng Gang; r incl breakfast Y765-1200, discounts of 10%-20%; iW) The House of Shambhala’s quiet to tour-group favourite, eschewing the beaten-up cheaper rooms and the beds in cramped dorm rooms (there are two left) for the otherwise good-value newer block. You 65 a range of comfortable en-suite rooms. Best can expect something in the room to be bets are the colourful Tibetan-style decor of non-functional but the cheery Tibetan fl oor the quiet back block (Y600); the larger but ladies do their best to help and off er cheap noisier deluxe rooms overlooking the main laundry. The simplest rooms without bath- street, which have better bathrooms (Y650); room suff er from paper-thin walls and are

or the plush VIP rooms (guìbīnlóu) – poorer value. LHASA all are currently discounted to Y380 to SLEEPING Y450. Reservations are recommended. The Rama Kharpo HOTEL $ 热玛嘎布宾馆 5th-fl oor breakfast bar off ers some great ( ; Rèmǎ Gābù Bīnguǎn; Map p48; % SLEEPING views of the Potala but foolishly closes at 634 6963; www.lhasabarkhor.com; 5 Ongto W Named the 6pm. Shingka Lam; dm/r Y25/150; ) ‘White Goat’ after the legendary founder Snowlands Hotel HOTEL $ of the city (see the box, p55 ), this easily ( 雪域宾馆; Xuěyù Bīnguǎn; Map p48 ; %632 missed place is hidden deep in the old town 3687; [email protected]; 4 Zangyiyuan near the Muslim quarter. Both dorm and Lu/Mentsikhang Lam; d/deluxe Y100/150, dm/d en-suite rooms are comfortable (check for without bathroom Y20/60; i) Snowlands barking dogs) and the dark but pleasant is another of Lhasa’s popular old-timers, cafe is a great meeting place, serving beer, largely because of the almost perfect lo- breakfasts and simple food. The knowl- cation beside Barkhor Sq. It’s now best edgeable owner holds occasional lectures viewed as a lower midrange option, with when in town. Vehicles can’t reach here so some of the best-value en suite rooms in you will have to carry your own luggage. town. Check the water pressure in the

17-room annex is hidden deeper in the old town, off ering identical styling but no spa. Avoid the smallest rooms here.

Gorkha Hotel HOTEL $$ ( 郭尔喀饭店; Guō’ěrkā Fàndiàn; Map p 48; %627 2222; [email protected]; 45 Linkuo Nanlu; r/ste Y280/300, tr per bed without bathroom Y50-80; i) This atmospheric Nepali- Tibetan venture is a nice blend of cultures, from the Tibetan-style entry murals and traditional architecture to the photographs of Nepali royalty and Nepali-style restau- rant on the roof. The creaking back block housed the Nepali consulate in the 1950s. Other rooms are set around a pleasant courtyard but vary considerably, so take a look at a few. Still, it’s a good choice and the suites are perfect for families. The hotel is in the south of the old town, near several lovely old temples and attached to a good Tibetan snack bar.

Trichang Labrang Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (Map p 48; %630 9555; www.trichanglabrang.com; 11 Luguwu Xinang; d & tr Y280-555, deluxe Y880) This new hotel occupies the former residence of Trijang Rinpoche, former tutor to the current Dalai Lama. Rooms are set around a charming courtyard garden and shrine and there is pleasant veranda seating. The building and rooftop are certainly charming, and a great place for dinner or a beer, but the rooms aren’t all that well fi nished, with crummy carpets, blasé staff and modern but small bathrooms.

Lingtsang Boutique Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ ( 林仓精品酒店; Líncāng Jīngpǐn Jiǔdiàn; Map p 48 ; %689 9991; s/d/ste Y1000/2000/3000) There are just nine rooms in this traditional and intimate courtyard, the former resi- dence of Nyi Rinpoche, a tutor of the Dalai Lama. The decor is a mixture of authentic architecture and modern stylish elements, with an open-plan wooden bathroom and dressed stone fl oors that add to the monastic feel. The suite occupies the former throne room. There’s a rooftop restaurant/bar with views of the Jokhang and a jarringly modern ground fl oor restaurant and lounge. Start Barkhor Sq 66 Finish Barkhor Sq Distance 3km 6 #3 Duration Three hours É #4 Kirey B #ÿ eijing Donglu Hotel (Beiji #2 ng East Rd) House of #ÿ

Lhasa Lhasa Shambhala É

#1 É  The Barkhor &~ #5 Square Jokhang É #8

'€ #6 É #7 MUSLIM QUARTER

#13 É #9 #10 khor (Ling anlu #11 nkuo N Rd) Li South #12 0 200 m e# 0 0.1 miles Jiangsu Lu

Walking Tour Old Town The fragile Tibetan old town shelters the Sera and Drepung. More than 500 monks soul of Lhasa, far from Chinese influence. were once in residence, and students of This walk takes in craft workshops, back- the college underwent a physically and street chapels and pilgrim paths, passing en intellectually gruelling course of study. The route some of Lhasa’s last remaining trad- college was thoroughly desecrated dur- itional architecture. ing the Cultural Revolution, but a growing At the first turn of the 1 Barkhor cir- number of monks are now in residence. The cuit take a left and then quick right, past main dukhang (assembly hall) has statues strips of dried yak meat and yellow bags of of Tsongkhapa, Chenresig and Sakyamuni. yak butter to the bustling 2 Tromsikhang Look for the monks’ alms bowls encased Market. After a quick look around the in crafted leather, hanging from the pillars. modern market (the original Tibetan-style Behind are huge statues of Tsongkhapa and building was demolished in 1997), head his two main disciples, and next door is a north to the main road, Beijing Donglu, and fearsome statue of Dorje Jigje (Yamantaka). then right to visit the 3 Gyüme Tratsang, The 2nd- and 3rd-floor chapels are some- Lhasa’s Lower Tantric College. It’s easy to times open. miss this working temple; look for an impos- About 50m further down the road, oppo- ing entrance set back from the road. It’s site the Kirey Hotel, are the deceptively long a surprisingly impressive place and little white walls of the small but active visited by foreigners. 4 Meru Sarpa Monastery. The building in Gyüme was founded in the mid-15th the middle of the traditional housing com- century as one of Tibet’s foremost Tantric pound has a traditional wood-block printing training colleges. In Lhasa, its importance press but doesn’t really welcome visitors. was second only to the monasteries of In the northwest corner is an atmospheric chapel with a statue of thousand-armed with wheeling-and-dealing yartsa gunbu Chenresig, an unusual frog-faced Palden traders (see the box, p294). Many women 67 Lhamo and the preserved jaws of a croco- here wear black-velvet headscarfs, charac- dile-like gharial. teristic of the Línxià region of China’s Gānsù Cross Beijing Donglu, take the alley down province. the east side of the Kirey Hotel into the old As you face the mosque, turn right and town and follow the winding branch to the head southwest past Muslim tea stalls and

 right, past the yellow walls of the House of butcher shops, branching along part of the Lhasa Sleeping Shambhala, which has a nice rooftop res- Lingkhor pilgrim circuit to the yellow walls taurant if you need a break. As you continue of the a Ani Sangkhung Nunnery (29 h

 south you’ll pass Tibetan craftspeople mak- Linkuo Nanlu; admission Y30; 8am-5pm). Sleeping ing statues, embroidery, cabinets, prayer This small, friendly and politically active wheels and Tibetan banners. At the junction nunnery is the only one within the precincts there’s the 5 Eizhi Thangka Shop to the of the old Tibetan quarter. The site of the left; you want to take a left at this junction nunnery probably dates back to the 7th but first look down the alleyway to the right century, but it housed a monastery until at to see the brassware shop and monk’s least the 15th century. The principal image, clothing store. upstairs on the 2nd floor, is a thousand- As you head southeast from the thangka armed Chenresig. A small alley to the side shop, past statue makers and a small mar- of the main chapel leads down to the former ket, curve right to the quiet but interesting meditation chamber of Songtsen Gampo, 6 Karmashar Temple, once the home the 7th-century king of Tibet. The busy nuns of the Karmashar, Lhasa’s main oracle. run a great teahouse in the courtyard, as Look for the Karmashar statue in the far well as a popular shop. right corner of the back chapel and for the Continue past a second mosque to spooky faded icon painted on a pigskin bag the b Lho Rigsum Lhakhang, one of in the main hall, pacified with offerings of four chapels surrounding the Jokhang at tsampa and barley beer. Enter from the cardinal points. The lovely chapel, almost southwest side. completely ignored by tourists, has a cen- Continue east to a T-junction past out- tral statue of Tsepame (Amitayus) flanked door pool tables, furniture shops and blar- by the four main bodhisattvas and its own ing video teahouses. At the T-junction take a inner kora. Monks from Ganden Monastery left to visit stylish 7 Lhasa Village Crafts, look after the site. A c prayer-wheel shop where you can watch local craftsmen from across the road offers the ultimate selection the 8 Ancient Art Restoration Centre of prayer-wheel accessories; perfect for the (h9am-1pm & 2-7pm Mon-Fri) across the pilgrim who has everything. Next door is a courtyard, as they grind up mineral paints prayer-flag shop, should you want to pick for thangka-painting and hammer away at up a string to leave at an upcoming pass metal sculptures in a corner workshop. Ask crossing. If you are in need of refreshment, to see the centre’s museum, which details the pleasant garden and rooftop restaurant the monasteries they have restored (every- of the Trichang Labrang Hotel is just 100m thing from Samye to Ganden). to the west. After loading up with souvenirs, head Take a right here headed north and then a south towards the 9 Muslim quarter, right, then a left. At the junction you can see the focus of Lhasa’s 2000-strong Muslim the d Rabsel Tsenkhang, a small temple population. During Friday lunchtime weekly affiliated to Sera Monastery. prayers and at dusk the quarter is full of The alley north takes you to the south- men with wispy beards and skullcaps (non- east corner of the Barkhor circuit, where Muslims are denied entry to the mosque you can continue clockwise to Barkhor Sq. itself). At other times the square bustles Start Deji Zhonglu (Dekyi Lam) 68 Finish Potala Palace 666666

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Walking Tour Lingkhor 6 This walk follows the most interesting Continue east to the 7 Golden Yaks section of the city’s main pilgrimage statue, erected for the 40th anniversary circuit, the Lingkhor. It’s best walked in the of the ‘liberation’ of Tibet, before reaching morning, when you’ll be joined by hundreds the former western 8 city gate (Daggo of Tibetan pilgrims. Kani). Black-and-white photos displayed in To start the walk, take a taxi to Deji the Brahmaputra Grand Hotel show Brit- Zhonglu (德吉中路; Dickey Lam in Tibetan). ish Army troops entering the city through An alley branches east of here to reach one the original gate during the invasion of of the city’s real gems: a lovely collection 1903–04. of painted 1 rock carvings centred on a Climb up to the 9 viewpoint (admission huge image of Tsepame. At the far end of Y2; h7am-7pm) just above the white chörten the courtyard the trail is a collection of for one of Lhasa’s classic photo opportuni- 2 stone carvers and a large3 chörten, ties. The hilltop behind you is Chagpo Ri built entirely of the carvers’ mani stones. (Iron Mountain) the site of Lhasa’s principal From here, return along the alley back to Tibetan medical college from 1413 until its Deji Zhonglu and head north. Just before destruction in the 1959 popular uprising. you hit Beijing Zhonglu (the second cross- Head down the nearby alley, past roads) follow the alleyway to the right to Drubthub Nunnery, to visit a Palha Lu- visit the friendly 4 Kunde Ling. Back at puk, the site of Lhasa’s earliest religious the intersection with Beijing Zhonglu, watch icons. If you have the energy, finish with a the pilgrims as they rub their backs, shoul- quick circuit of the Potala kora, stopping in ders and hips against a series of polished at the b Lukhang. Finish up with a well- 5 holy stones. Head east along Beijing deserved thermos of sweet tea at either of Zhonglu to the yellow walls of the Chinese- two nearby c teahouses in the pleasant style 6 Gesar Ling. park. tr/q without bathroom Y80/90/105/120; iW) This modern, Chinese-run hostel attracts 69 mainly Chinese backpackers, though a few Even if you’re not in the market for foreign travellers make it here. Rooms are showy fi ve-star digs, it’s worth in- smallish but well maintained, with wooden vesting Y10 in a cab ride out to the fl oors and crisp white sheets, though a few opulent Brahmaputra Grand Hotel don’t have any exterior windows. The bunk- (雅鲁藏布大酒店; Yǎlǔzàngbù Dàjiǔdiàn;

bed style dorms vary in size – the best deal LHASA Map p 44; www.tibethotel.cn; Section SLEEPING is a bed in a triple for Y35. Solar-heated hot B, Yangcheng Plaza, Gongbutang Lu) in water is available in the evenings in the the east of town. Occupying a space rooms with bathrooms, or 24 hours in the somewhere between Vegas theme SLEEPING common showers. Prices rise in July and hotel and ethnographic museum, you August. Bike rental (Y25 to Y30) and free could easily spend an hour wander- laundry are bonuses, as are the three (!) ing the hundreds of exhibits in the bars. free 2nd-fl oor museum, from antique opera masks to armour and historic Phuntsok Khasang International Youth B&W photographs. Amazingly, it’s all Hostel YOUTH HOSTEL $ for sale. Pick up a fl oor plan from the ( 平措康桑青年旅舍; Píngcuò Kāngsāng Guójì lobby. Qíngnián Lǚshè; Map p48 ; %691 5222; www.tibet inn.cn, www.lhasahostel.com; 48 Duosenge Lu; dm Y25-40, d Y110-170) Lhasa’s second Chinese- Dhood Gu Hotel HOTEL $$ run youth hostel feels a bit too much like 敦固宾馆 ( ; Dūngù Bīngǔan; Map p48 ; %632 2555; Cell Block H for us, with grafi ttied hallways www.dhodguhotel.com; 19 Shasarsu Lu; s/d/ste and rooms set around an echoey courtyard. Y280/300/520; i) If you’re looking for a Try instead for a room in the huge annex dash of style, this comfortable Nepali-run (known as Lhasa International Youth Hos- three-star place near the Tromsikhang mar- tel) across the road, which has the advan- ket is a good choice, with ornate Tibetan- tage of two nice cafes with wi-fi , a foosball style decor, a decent restaurant and a table and free breakfast (eight types of om- superb location in the old town. Breakfast elettes!). Useful perks include a laundry ser- is included and rooms come with modern vice and baggage storage. A YHA card (Y50) bathrooms, though the singles are cramped gets you a small discount. and some rooms lack views. The rooftop bar has fi ne Potala views. Credit cards are ac- Banak Shol HOTEL $ cepted. ( 八郎学旅馆; Bālángxué Bīnguǎn; Map p48 ; %632 3829; 8 Beijing Donglu; d Y100-120, Barkhor Namchen House GUESTHOUSE $ Once 八廓龙乾家庭旅馆 dm/s/d without bathroom Y20/40/70) ( ; Bākuò Lóngqían Jiātíng the place to stay back in the early days of Lǚguǎn; Map p48 ; %679 0125; www.tibetnam independent travel, the budget Banak Shol chen.com; dm Y25, s Y60-70, d Y70; i) This is looking pretty tired these days. It’s still small backstreet Tibetan-style guesthouse got several things going for it, including is a good budget choice. The old-town loca- the good Nam-tso Restaurant (p71 ), free tion just off the Barkhor is near perfect, the laundry and pleasant wooden verandas, staff are friendly, and the Asian-style bath- but the staff are jaded, the walls of the rooms and hot showers are super-clean. cheaper rooms are paper thin, and most Rooms are fairly small and some have lim- rooms look onto either the noisy main ited natural light (ask for an upper-fl oor road or a courtyard full of reversing 4WDs. room) but the lounge area catches the win- The doubles with a hot-water bathroom ter sun, or you can head to the good rooftop are among the cheapest of such rooms in restaurant for fi ne views. All rooms share Lhasa, though they have seen better days. the communal bathroom block. The majority of the guests nowadays are Dōngcuò International Youth Hostel Chinese backpackers. YOUTH HOSTEL $ 东措国际青年旅馆 Oh Dan Guest House HOTEL $ ( ; Dōngcuò Guójì Qīngnián ( 欧丹旅馆; Ōudān Bīnguǎn; Map p44 ; %634 % Lǚshè; Map p48; 627 3388; www.yhalasa.com, 4999; www.shangrilatours.com/ohdan.htm; oh in Chinese; [email protected]; 10 Beijing [email protected]; 15 Xiaozhaosi Lu/ Donglu; dm Y15-40, s/d/tr Y100/120/180, s/d/ Ramoche Lam; d with/without bathroom Y130/60; ai) One of several hotels owned by the Oh Heritage Hotel HOTEL $$ 70 Dan group, this is a good lower-midrange, ( 古艺酒店; Gǔyì Jiǔdiàn; Map p48 ; 11 Chaktsal- Tibetan-run choice with an interesting gang Lam; s/d/ste Y380/480/680, discounts of location on the pedestrian street leading 30%-40%; aW) Hidden in the old town and to the Ramoche Temple (taxis can’t go up part of the artsy courtyard holding Lhasa this street during the day). The rooms are Village Handicrafts (see p 75), the Heritage spacious and clean, though only the top- off ers 21 stylish rooms, with stone-walled

LHASA fl oor rooms get much natural light. The showers, wooden fl oors and Tibetan wall English-speaking staff are helpful; for Y30 hangings. The good on-site Third Eye Ne- they’ll even teach you how to make momos restaurant solves the dinner dilemma. (dumplings)! The cosy Nepali restaurant is a Flora Hotel HOTEL $$ nice and serves good breakfasts (try 哈达花神旅馆 the breakfast burrito). The cheaper rooms ( ; Hǎdáhuāshén Lǚguǎn; Map % share common hot showers and clean squat p48; 632 4491; www.fl orahtl.piczo.com; He- balin Lu; dm Y35, d/tr incl breakfast Y180/210) toilets. The Flora is a well-run and reliable hotel Four Points HOTEL $$$ in the interesting Muslim quarter (it’s run ( 福朋酒店; Fúpéng Jiǔdiàn; Map p44 ; %634 by a Nepali Muslim). Nice touches include 8888; www.fourpoints.com/lhasa; no 5, 1 Xiang, a minibar at local-shop prices and a laun- Shengtai Lu; r Y1780-2580, ste from Y2880, dry service. There are three decent but discounts of 40%; aiW) A solid four-star slightly cramped three-bed dorms out the Sheraton property, this polished place back (with attached toilet and shared hot is cool and understated, with pleasant shower). Credit cards and bookings are courtyard seating serving everything from accepted. Lhasa Beer to Brazilian barbecue. Extra touches in the spacious rooms include a Shangbala Hotel HOTEL $$ 香巴拉酒店 % humidifi er against Lhasa’s dry climate and ( ; Xiāngbālā Jiǔdiàn; Map p48; 632 an emergency torch and panic button per- 3888; www.tibetshangbalahotel.com; 1 Danjielin Lu; r with breakfast Y680, discounts of 50%; aW) fect for travelling paranoids. Prices include Yes it’s bland and boring, but this marbly a breakfast buff et. tour-group blockhouse is also reassur- St Regis HOTEL $$$ ingly familiar and ridiculously close to the (Map p44 ; %630 5845; www.stregis.com/lhasa Jokhang and local restaurants. The carpet- resort; Jiangsu Donglu; ai) Six-star travellers ed rooms are clean and have decent bath- accustomed to uber-luxury, 24-hour butler rooms, and there are good views from the service and, yes, a gold-plated pool, can fi - 4th fl oor. It’s not interesting but you could nally consider a trip to the plateau. The new do a lot worse. hotel promises a fortress-like lobby, three Lhasa has lots of other decent modern restaurants, a spa, tearoom and the largest Chinese-style midrange choices with cen- selection of wines in Tibet (although any tral locations. Consider the following if collection of more than 10 bottles qualifi es you score a bargain on an accommodation- as this). Proximity to the old town is an un- booking website: expected bonus. If you have to ask the price, you can’t aff ord it. At least Richard Gere has Gang Gyen Hotel HOTEL $$$ 刚坚饭店 a place to stay if he’s ever allowed back into ( ; Gāngjiān Fàndiàn; Map p48 ; %630 Tibet. 5555; 83 Beijing Donglu; d with breakfast Y1280- 1380, discounts of 50%; aW) Modern and Cool Yak Hotel HOTEL $$ quiet four-star place. 酷牦牛酒店 % ( ; Kùmáoniú Jiǔdiàn; Map p48; 685 Mandala Hotel HOTEL $$ 6777; [email protected]; s/d/tr Y360/580/480, ( 满斋饭店; Mǎnzhāi Fàndiàn; Map p44 ; %636 discounts of Y30%-50%; a) The great location and the giant Tibetan thangka in the cen- 7666; Jiangsu Lu; s Y250, deluxe Y350-400, ste Y650-700; ai) New Nepali-run three-star tral courtyard are the most eye-catching place. things about this modern place. The rooms are fresh and comfortable, though there’s Tibet Kailash Hotel HOTEL $$ a defi nite lack of natural light. It’s hidden ( 凯拉斯酒店; Kǎilāsī Jiǔdiàn; Map p48 ; %675 down an alley off Zangyiyuan Lu (Men- 9999; www.kailash.com.cn; 143 Beijing Donglu; r tsikhang Lam). Y680, discounts of 50%-60%; i) Good loca- tion and lively bar. Xióngbālā Hotel HOTEL $$ cream-cheese momos and yak burgers, and ( 雄巴拉大酒店; Xióngbālā Dàjiǔdiàn; Map p48 ; the sunny roof seating is one of the few 71 %633 8888; [email protected]; 28 Jiangsu places in town to sit outdoors. The chicken Lu; r Y518, discounts of 50%; a) West-facing sizzler is a classic Lhasa meal. The restau- rooms offer views of the Potala from the rant’s breakfasts (muesli brought in from 5th floor. Kathmandu, among other things) have also achieved a devoted following. Thangka Hotel HOTEL $$$ LHASA ( 康卡酒店; Kāngkǎ Jiǔdiàn; Map p48 ; %630 New Mandala Restaurant NEPALI $$ EATING 8866; 38 Yuthok Lam/Yutuo Lu; r Y880-1280, ( 新满斋餐厅; Xīnmǎnzhāi Cāntīng; Map p48 ; ste Y1880, discounts of 50%; W) A modern %634 2235; west of Barkhor Sq; dishes Y20-35; and friendly three-star place with some E) This Nepali-run restaurant is defi nitely EATING Tibetan touches and a super-convenient a winner for its fi ne views over the Barkhor, location near the Jokhang. Standard either from the mural-fi lled 2nd fl oor or the rooms are best value, as ‘palace view’ sunny rooftop. Try the excellent Nepali set rooms don’t offer much extra. meal. It also sells packaged Nepali foods such as muesli and soup mixes. The owner 5 Eating runs the Tashi restaurants in Shigatse and As with accommodation, the best Tibetan, Tsetang. Nepali and Western restaurants are in the Lhasa Kitchen WESTERN $ Tibetan quarter around the Barkhor Sq 拉萨厨房 area. Almost all places off er decent break- ( ; Lāsà Chúfáng; Map p48; 3 Zangyiyuan fasts, perhaps the best being at the Lhasa Lu/Mentsikhang Lam; mains Y15-30, Nepali sets Y20-30; E) With a wide-ranging menu of Kitchen, Snowland and Nam-tso restau- Nepali, Indian and Tibetan dishes, good rants. All the eateries listed serve lunch and breakfast options, decent prices, pleasant dinner, but you will struggle to fi nd a meal seating and a great location, it’s no surprise after about 10pm. For the fl ashiest Chinese that this is a popular place with travellers restaurants you’ll have to head to the west- and locals alike. The menu covers every- ern districts. thing from vegetable dopiaza (onion-based With the arrival of half-a-dozen Nepali curry) to cheese and tomato toast. restaurants, Lhasa now rivals Kathmandu in its range of foreign foods (though prices Tashi I WESTERN $ are a bit higher). All off er a mix of Indian, (Map p48 ; cnr Zangyiyuan Lu/Mentsikhang Lam pseudo-Chinese and Western dishes for & Beijing Donglu; mains Y10-25; h8am-10pm; about Y25, with Indian veggie dishes cheap- E) Old Lhasa hands still like this unpre- er. If you’re hankering for a dal bhat (lentils tentious slice of old Lhasa, though other and rice), masala chai or banana lassi, make travellers may wonder what all the fuss is a beeline for these places. about, especially with the increased com- petition from slicker Nepali and foreign- Snowland Restaurant WESTERN $$ run restaurants. Still, we like it for the o 雪域餐厅 ( ; Xuěyù Cāntīng; Map p48 ; cheerful service, cheap prices and great lo- %632 0821; 4 Zangyiyuan Lu/Mentsikhang Lam; cation, even if the food itself can be hit and mains Y15-40; E) Attached to the Snow- miss. Try the bobis (chapati-like unleav- lands Hotel, this is a more upmarket and ened bread), which come with seasoned extremely popular place that serves a mix cream cheese and fried vegetables or meat, of excellent Continental and Nepali food or some fried apple momos washed down in very civilised surroundings. The Indian with a mug of sweet milky tea. Tashi II in dishes are particularly good, especially the Kirey Hotel on Beijing Donglu off ers the tasty chicken butter masala and giant an identical menu. naan breads. The cakes are easily the best in town and discounted after 9pm; give the Tengyelink Café NEPALI $ lemon pie our fond regards. (Map p48 ; %632 3866; Zangyiyuan Lu/Men- tsikhang Lam; dishes Y15-25; E) This warm and Nam-tso Restaurant WESTERN $ cosy restaurant is popular with both for- 纳木措餐馆 ( ; Nàmùcuò Cānguǎn; Map p48 ; eigners and Tibetans, so get here early for Banak Shol, 8 Beijing Donglu; mains Y20-30, set a good table. The Western dishes are joined breakfast Y27; E) This old-timer is still one by a few Tibetan, Indian and even Korean of the top hotel-restaurants, helped by jolly options. Service is good and it’s a well-run staff . Dishes stretch to vegetarian lasagne, place. Time your meal to fi nish just after 8pm and you can snag half-price baked Sun Tribe TIBETAN $$ 72 goods. (Nyima Ro Soltsek in Tibetan; 太阳部落藏餐; Map p44 ; Tàiyáng Bùluò Zàngcān; Linkuo Xilu; mains Dunya Restaurant WESTERN $$ Y25-50; E) This oddly named restaurant is % (Map p48; 633 3374; www.dunyarestaurant a defi nite notch above the other old-town .com; 100 Beijing Donglu; dishes Y30-65; Tibetan restaurants and is a good place to h E With sophisticated decor, 8.30am-10pm; ) splash out on top-end Tibetan cuisine. The excellent and wide-ranging food (from yak

LHASA decor is well done and the window seats are enchiladas to Indonesian noodles), this cosy particularly pleasant. Alongside the pre- Dutch-run place best captures Lhasa’s new dictable spinal marrow and fried lungs are tour-group zeitgeist, and is often packed such interesting dishes as mushroom pie with Dutch tourists and American school and that rarest of things, a Tibetan salad. groups. It’s pricier than most other places One nice touch is that the picture menu is in town but the food is authentic, from the divided into the regional cuisines of Tibet, oregano-fl avoured pizza crust to the im- so you can order Amdo-style yoghurt and ported Italian pasta. The homemade sand- mutton or sausage from Kham. The set wiches and soups are good for a light lunch meals (Y26) are good value. and it’s one of the few places on the plateau to get a decent glass of wine or pina colada Lánqíng Qīngzhēn Fànguǎn MUSLIM $ with dinner. ( 蓝青清真饭馆; Map p48 ; Beijing Donglu; dishes Y6-45) There are several Muslim restau- Pentoc Tibetan Restaurant TIBETAN $ rants in the old town but this one is unique E For something (Map p48; dishes Y10-15; ) in having cosy Tibetan-style seating in the more authentically Tibetan, charming side room. The Xīnjiāng specialty xiǎopánjī English-speaking Pentoc runs this local (小盘鸡; Y25) – chicken in a sauce with po- teahouse restaurant after working in tatoes and carrots on a bed of noodles – is Tashi I for many years. The menu includes bony but very tasty. The photo menu on the breakfast (eggs, Tibetan bread, pancakes, wall is helpful, even if the images bear only yoghurt) and it’s a good place to try home- a passing resemblance to the real thing. For made Tibetan standards, such as momos, lunch try one of the noodle dishes, such as thugpa (noodles), shemdre (rice, potato and chǎomiànpiàn (fried noodle squares) or yak meat), plus butter tea, chang and even gānbànmiàn (a kind of stir-fried spaghetti dal bhat. It’s 20m down an alleyway off Bei- bolognaise). jing Donglu, on the left. Shānchéng Chuāncàiguǎn SICHUANESE $ Woeser Zedroe Tibetan Restaurant ( 山城川菜馆; Map p48 ; Beijing Donglu; mains TIBETAN $ E You won’t have any problem fi nd- 光明泽缀藏餐馆 Y10-25; ) ( ; Guāngmíng Zézhuì Zàngcān- ing Chinese food in Lhasa. This is one of E This guǎn; Map p48; Danjielin Lu; mains Y6-28; ) several simple hole-in-the-wall Chinese is where visiting and local Tibetans come places on Beijing Donglu, but one we kept to fi ll up after a visit to the Jokhang. Add coming back to for its tasty and cheap Si- some pleasant traditional seating and a chuanese dishes like gōngbào jīdīng (diced perfect location to the Tibetan vibe and it’s chicken with peanuts) and yúxiāng ròusī a logical lunch stop. The momos are recom- (‘fi sh-resembling’ pork). mended, especially the fried yak meat or cheese varieties. Skip the boiled yak hooves Ālǐlāng Korean Barbeque KOREAN $ and the phenomenally expensive dishes ( 阿里郎烧烤; Ālǐlāng Shāokǎo; Map p48 ; Beijing made with cordyceps. Donglu; mains Y13-25, barbecue meat/vegetables from Y20/5) For something a little diff erent, Tibet Kun Phan Vegetarian Restaurant this Korean Chinese place is popular for its TIBETAN $ barbecue, which you grill up on hot plates

(Bozhang Guenpan Gartse Sutsikhang in Tibetan; at the table and then eat wrapped in lettuce

Map p48; Yuthok Lam/Yutuo Lu; mains Y10-18, buf- leaves. If that sounds like too much hard E Just to prove that vegetarian Ti- fet Y25; ) work, try the bibambap (rice, vegetables betan food isn’t a contradiction in terms, this and fried egg in a stone pot), potato pan- Buddhist place serves excellent, healthy all- cakes, kimchi soup or sushi-like rice rolls. veg dishes, including a nightly buff et (5pm The photo menu simplifi es having to order to 8pm). It’s a central place with a pleasant Korean food in Chinese. environment but no alcohol is served. Norzing Selchung Tashi Yarphel Spinn Café BAR Restaurant TIBETAN $ (Map p48 ; www.cafespinn.com; h2pm-midnight) 73 (Map p44 ; Xiaozhaosi Lu/Ramoche Lam; dishes This funky, tiny backstreet cafe/bar is a Y10-25) Super-convenient if you’re visiting hang-out for cold beer, fi lter coff ee, teas the next-door Ramoche Temple, this pleas- and snacks and is a good resource for travel ant upstairs Amdo Tibetan restaurant of- information (especially biking). It’s down a fers great views over the street below from back alley off Beijing Donglu. Contact Kong

the low Tibetan-style tables. Try the set or Oat. LHASA meal of shemdre for Y15 or choose some- There are several Tibetan teahouses DRINKING thing more adventurous from the photo around town where you can grab a cheap

menu, such as the tiger-skin chillies (虎皮 thermos of cha ngamo (sweet tea). Most of DRINKING DRINKING 青椒; hǔpíqīngjiāo; Y12). them are grungy Tibetan-only places, blast- ed by high-decibel kung fu videos, but there 6 Drinking are a few exceptions. The bustling local There’s not a great deal when it comes to Tengyeling Teahouse (Map p48 ; Zangyiyuan entertainment options in Lhasa. In the Lu/Mentsikhang Lam) beside the Tashi Takgay evening most travellers head to one of the Hotel is very central, though the teahouse restaurants in the Tibetan quarter and then in the Ani Sangkhung Nunnery (Map p48 ; retire to the roof of the Barkhor Namchen 29 Linkuo Nanlu) is probably the nicest for House or Banak Shol hotels for a cold Lhasa a quiet cup of tea. The two excellent tea- Beer. houses (Map p54 ) in Zang Gyab Lukhang Park behind the Potala are also well worth Dunya BAR the detour. (Map p48 ; 100 Beijing Donglu; beer Y12) The breezy upstairs bar at this popular restau- rant is a fi rm favourite of both local expats 3 Entertainment Unfortunately there is little in the way of and tour groups. There’s a nice terrace and cultural entertainment in Lhasa. Restau- a big-screen TV for major sports events. rants like the Shangrila in the courtyard of Makye Amye RESTAURANT/BAR the Kirey Hotel have free song-and-dance ( 玛吉阿米餐吧; Mǎjí’āmǐ Cānbā; Map p48 ; Bark- performances for diners (buff et Y50). For hor; drinks from Y15, mains Y25-60) The past authentic performances of Tibetan opera is tastier than the present at this watering and dancing you’ll probably have to wait for hole overlooking the Barkhor. If the stories one of Lhasa’s festivals (see p21 ). are to be believed, this was once a drinking For something a bit earthier there haunt of the licentious sixth Dalai Lama, are several Tibetan nangma dance halls who met the famed Tibetan beauty Makye around town, which off er a mildly nation- Amye here and composed a famous poem alistic mix of disco, traditional Tibetan line about her. Chinese tourists are drawn to dancing, lots of beer and a bit of Chinese the absorbing views of the Barkhor from karaoke thrown in for good measure. See the corner tables and fi ne rooftop terrace, the box, p74 , for some suggestions or ask a but the food is just so-so. Tibetan friend for the latest places.

Summit Café CAFE Shöl Opera Troupe OPERA ( 顶峰咖啡店; Dǐngfēng Kāfēidiàn; Map p48 ; www. ( 雪巴拉姆; Xuěbā Lāmǔ; Map p44 ; %632 1111; thetibetsummitcafe.com; 1 Danjielin Lu; coff ee 6 Linkuo Donglu) Performs a selection of Ti- Y14-25, desserts Y10-24; h7.30am-11pm; iW) betan operas nightly at 6.30pm at the Hi- With authentic espresso coff ee and smooth- malaya Hotel. Tickets for the 90-minute ies, sofas that swallow you up, free wi-fi show cost Y180 with dinner and drinks, and melt-in-your-mouth cheesecakes, this and there’s a small museum on site. American-style coff eehouse is a mocha- fl avoured for Starbucks addicts. It’s 7 Shopping in the courtyard of the Shangbala Hotel, You can get most things in Lhasa these a stone’s throw from the Jokhang, with a days, though water-purifying tablets, de- couple of less useful branches around town. odorant and English-language books and Other places for a real coff ee include the magazines are still not easy to fi nd. courtyards of Yabshi Phunkhang (Illy cof- For souvenirs, the Barkhor circuit is fee) or the Kyichu Hotel. lined with stalls selling everything a visit- ing Tibetan or tourist might possibly need. 74 MILA-RAPPER: MC TENZIN’S NIGHTLIFE GUIDE

We asked MC Tenzin, the creator of Tibet’s fi rst hip hop album, to give us the lowdown on Lhasa nightlife. Best Nangma? LHASA For nangma my favourite place is Gyelpo’s Nangma (雪域杰布; Xuěyù Jiébù; Map p 44 ; Beijing Donglu; h7pm-2am). The seating is good, the fl oorshow and singers are the best

in town and there’s never any fi ghting here. Gyelpo was a famous dancer on Tibet TV. It’s a great place to meet friends and it’s cheaper than the discos, but get a seat be- fore 9pm. Nearby JJ Nangma (Map p 44; Beijing Donglu) is fl ashier and has a younger crowd. Best Bars? Bars change really frequently in Lhasa. Easy Day (简单日子; Jiǎndān Rìzi; Map p54 ; Lawei Yangguang Cheng A-47, Deji Beilu; beer Y10-15; h5pm-6am) has a lounge feel with dim lights and some live jazz and blues, and there are half a dozen other bars nearby. Qīpíngmǐ Bar (7平米; Map p 44; beer Y8-10; Beijing Xilu; h4pm-4am) is a small, busy bar that has great music, from Chinese pop to the Eagles. Bangda (半打; Bàndá; Map p54 ; Beijing Donglu; h6pm-5am) is bigger and busier, with outdoor courtyard seating during the day. Best Club? Queen (皇后; Huánghòu; Map p 44; Deji Beilu; h10pm-5am) is the biggest and best disco and the bouncers keep things in check. It’s still known by its old name Bābǐlā (芭比 拉俱乐部; Bābǐlā Jùlèbù). It’s popular with young people and students and people here love to dance with foreigners! The music is mostly techno, Lady Gaga, Korean pop; you know, good beats. The people are very fresh. MC Tenzin is a former tour guide who raps about morality, regret and imperma- nence and gets his guidance from both Buddhism and Eminem (favourite track: ‘Lose Yourself’). ‘ is changing,’ says Tenzin, ‘we can’t live in the past; we should follow the world, not hide from it’. Check out www.myspace.com/tibetan- hiphopmctenzin and the album ‘One Day’, available in Lhasa.

Expect to be asked an outrageous initial fl awless; beware of a string of identically price and then settle down for some serious shaped and rounded beads – nature did not and persistent haggling. Popular purchases intend them to be this way. The fi nal test is include prayer wheels, rings, prayer scarves to scratch the surface with a sharp metal and prayer fl ags, all of which are fairly por- object; the fake turquoise will leave a white table. Most of the stuff on off er is actually line, the real stuff won’t show a thing. Take made in Nepal and sold by Chinese or Hui a close look at the stone to make sure it’s all Muslim traders. in one piece. Unscrupulous traders glue to- Items of Tibetan clothing, such as chu- gether tiny bits of turquoise to make larger bas (long-sleeved sheepskin cloaks), cowboy pieces of stone. hats, Tibetan brocade and fur hats, are good You’ll also see ‘Buddha eye’ beads, known buys. There are several Tibetan dress shops as dzi – black or brown oblong beads with on Beijing Donglu where you can get a for- white eye symbols. These are replicas of mal Tibetan dress made or buy off the rack. natural fossils found in rocks in the moun- One good place is opposite the Kyichu Hotel. tains containing auspicious eye symbols The majority of shops in the Barkhor sell thought to represent the eyes of the Bud- jewellery, most of it turquoise and coral (Ti- dha. The real things pass hands for tens of betans believe that turquoise is good for the thousands of dollars. liver and coral for the heart), but almost all Lhasa’s glittering new supermarkets now of it is fake. The fake stuff is bluer and is off er a staggering range of imported goods, from frozen squid to ripe pineapples, along- room can arrange free transport. Expect to side a bewildering array of dried yak meat. pay around Y4000 to Y5000 for a carpet, 75 Cheese-heads desperate for a lactose fi x can plus Y600 shipping. Credit cards accepted. try the Dunya (p72 ) and Nam-tso (p71 ) res- taurants for locally made ‘yak’ (actually dri, Snow Leopard Carpet Industries CARPETS 雪豹毯业有限公司 or female yak) cheese by the half-kilo. ( ; Xuěbào Tǎnyè Yǒuxiàn-

To fi nd basic items, such as thermoses gōngsī; Map p48; [email protected]; 2 Zangyiyuan Lu/Mentsikhang Lam) Next to the and water canisters, the best places are LHASA Snowland Restaurant, this place sells a col- SHOPPING the lanes that run from the Tromsikhang lection of high-quality carpets and yak-wool Market down to the Barkhor circuit. Cheap blankets at fi xed prices. At around Y160 pots and pans (ideal for instant noodles) SHOPPING per sq ft, a 4ft by 6ft carpet costs around SHOPPING are available at the stalls on the east side US$400. Credit cards are accepted and staff of the Potala. For hard-to-fi nd items such can arrange delivery abroad. Ask for friend- as sunscreen and deodorant, dig around in ly English-speaking Phurbu. The company the Nepali-stocked shops dotted around the uses some profi ts to fund a local orphanage. Barkhor circuit. There are now dozens of trekking shops Mani Thangka Arts THANGKAS on Beijing Donglu and Zangyiyuan Lu/ ( 嘛呢唐卡艺术; Mání Tángkǎ Yìshù; Map p48 ; Mentsikhang Lam, though most off er low- Zangyiyuan Lu/Mentsikhang Lam) Opposite the quality Nepali- or Chinese-made knock- Shangbala Hotel, Mani Thangka Arts fea- off s. tures thangkas made with mineral paints by local artist Phurbu Tsering. Most of oLhasa Village Handicrafts the other thangka shops on this street are HANDICRAFTS owned by Chinese traders who sell Nepali % (Map p48; 636 0558; www.tibetcraft.com; 11 imports. The small thangka workshops on h This impres- Chaktsalgang Lam; 10am-8pm) the south side of the Barkhor circuit and in sive nonprofi t enterprise (formerly known the surrounding backstreets are also worth as Dropenling) aims to bolster traditional checking out. Tibetan handicrafts in the face of rising For higher-quality items at higher prices, Chinese and Nepali imports. Products are try shops like the of high quality and employ traditional Dorje Antique Shop (Map , opposite the Yak Hotel, techniques (natural dyes, wool not acrylic p48; Beijing Donglu) and the etc) updated with contemporary designs. Kyichu Art Gallery (Map p48; 149 in the Kyichu Hotel. Prices are fi xed, with proceeds going back Beijing Donglu) to artisans in the form of wages and social Bǎiyì Supermarket SUPERMARKET funds. Artefacts for sale include woolly car- ( 百益超市; Bǎiyì Chāoshì; Map p54 ; Beijing Don- pets from the Wangden region of southern glu; h10am-9pm) Next to Lhasa Department Tsang, UNDP-supported weavings and sil- Store and boasting Lhasa’s best range of verware, Tibetan aprons, leather appliqué foodstuff s. bags, table runners and horse blankets. Ask Sìfāng Supermarket SUPERMARKET about its two-hour artisan walking tour 四方超市 of Lhasa’s old town. Foreign currency and ( ; Sìfāng Chāoshì; Map p48; Beijing Don- glu; h9am-10pm) This is the closest super- credit cards are accepted (the latter with a market to the old town. 4.2% fee), as are US dollars, and it can ar- range international shipping. See also the Tromsikhang Market MARKET walking tour on p66 . ( 冲赛康市场; Chōngsàikāng Shìchǎng; Map p48 ) This bazaar-style area in the old town has Tanva CARPETS the widest selection of dried fruits and nuts 毯华编织 ( ; Tǎnhuá Biānzhī; Map p48 ; www.tora and is the place to buy such Tibetan speci- nahouse.com; h9.30am-1pm, 3-7.30pm Mon- alities as tsampa and yak butter. Sat) After visiting Lhasa Village Handi- crafts head to this upstairs showroom in Norling Supermarket SUPERMARKET the corner of the courtyard for a selection ( 罗林超市; Luólín Chāoshì; Map p44 ; 20 Linkuo of Tibetan wool carpets given a modern de- Donglu) Located near the Muslim quarter, signer twist. All carpets are handmade lo- this Tibetan-run Nepali import shop sells cally from 100% Tibetan handspun wool. To everything from muesli and chocolate see the weaving process, pop into the work- spread to Indian spices, olive oil and roll- shop in Nam village, between Lhasa and the ing tobacco, though at prices higher than airport (kilometre marker 4671); the show- in Nepal. Outlook Outdoor Equipment OUTDOOR GEAR most centrally located ATM, outside Snowlands 76 (Map p48 ; 11 Beijing Donglu; h9.30am-9pm) Hotel. This reliable trekking shop across from the Kirey Hotel has Western-quality sleeping Post bags, Gore-Tex jackets and tents, plus hard- Main post office (中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóu- to-fi nd imported knick-knacks like altim- zhèng; Map p54 ; Beijing Donglu; h9am-8pm) eters, trekking socks and Primus cook sets. The counter in the far left corner sells stamps and packaging for parcels. Leave parcels

LHASA Gear is also available for rent (Y10 to Y20 for a stove, Y25 to Y30 for a tent, per day). unsealed until you get here, as staff will want to check the contents for customs clearance. Express Mail Service (EMS) is here. Postcards

8 Information are sold in the shop to the east. Internet Access DHL (中外运敦豪; Zhōngwàiyùn Dūnháo; Map The most popular internet cafes are those at p 44 ; %635 6995, 800 8108000; www.cn.dhl. the Snowlands and Yak Hotels, where you can com; Room 4, 2nd fl, Back Block, Norpel Ling surf the internet (Y5) and burn CDs (Y15 to Hotel/Baofa Jiudian, 6 Hongqi Lu) Free pick-up Y20), from 9am to 11pm. If you have a laptop, and delivery service. the Summit Café and Rama Kharpo and Yabshi Phunkhang hotels off er free wi-fi . Local internet Public Security Bureau (PSB) cafes are cheaper, smokier and noisier. Lhasa City PSB (拉萨市公安局; Lāsà Shì Red Forest Net Café (红树村网城; Gōng’ānjú; Map p 44 ; %624 8154; 17 Linkuo Hóngshùcūn Wǎngchéng; Map p 48 ; Beijing Beilu; h9am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm Mon-Fri) Donglu; per hr Y3; h24hr) One of several Visa extensions of up to a week are given, but places opposite the Banak Shol hotel. only a day or two before your visa expires and only if you are on a tour. Medical Services Telephone Several hotels and pharmacies around town sell Tibetan herbal medicine recommended by The cheapest way to make an international locals for easing symptoms of altitude sick- call is through the various private telephone ness. The most common medicine is known booths (h8.30am-11pm), often advertised as 国际公话超市 as solomano in Tibetan and hóngjīngtīan (红景 ‘Telecom Supermarkets’ ( ; Guōjì 天) in Chinese, though locals also recommend Gōnghuà Chāoshì). Useful outlets are on Zangy- gāoyuánníng (高原宁) and gāoyuánkāng (高原 iyuan Lu (Mentsikhang Lam) and in front of the 康). A box of vials will cost you Y20 to Y35; take Kirey Hotel. Rates are Y2.4 per minute to the US, three vials a day. Y3.6 to Europe and Australia, or Y4.8 to other countries. Military Hospital (西藏军区总医院; Xīzàng Jūnqū Zǒngyīyuàn; Map p 79 ; %628 0557; Travel Agencies Niangre Beilu) Travellers who have received FIT Banak Shol Hotel (散客旅游管理接待中 medical attention confirm that this place is the 心; Sǎnkè Lǚyóu Guǎnlǐjiēdài Zhōngxīng; Map best option (if you have an option). p 48 ; %655 9938; [email protected]; Banak Money Shol, 8 Beijing Donglu) Contact Xiaojin. Good prices, reliable and fairly transparent. Bank of China branch (中国银行; Zhōngguó 高原散客旅游管理接 Yínháng; Map p 48 ; Beijing Donglu; h10am- FIT Snowlands Hotel ( 待中心 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3.30pm Sat & Sun) The ; Gāoyuán Sǎnkè Lǚyóu Guǎnlǐjiēdài most conveniently located bank changes cash Zhōngxīng; Map p48 ; %634 9239; www.tibet- and travellers cheques without fuss. It can’t fit.com; [email protected]; 2nd fl, Snow- give a cash advance on a credit card but the lands Hotel, 4 Zangyiyuan Lu/Mentsikhang ATMs normally work. It’s between the Banak Lam) Contact Lhakpa Tsering. Also goes under Shol and Kirey Hotels. the name Changtang. Bank of China main office (中国银行; Shigatse CITS (Map p 48 ; %691 2080; www. Zhōngguó Yínháng; Map p54 ; Linkuo Xilu; shambhalatour.com; tibetanintibet@yahoo. h9am-1pm, 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am- cn; Zangyiyuan Lu/Mentsikhang Lam) Contact 4pm Sat & Sun) West of the Potala. This is the Tenzin or Xiaojin. place to arrange a credit-card advance (3% Tibet Tourism Bureau FIT Travel Service commission) or a bank transfer (p 342 ). Take Centre (西藏旅游局; Xīzàng Lǚyóujú; Map p48 ; a number as you walk in the door. The ATMs %632 0200; [email protected]; Zan- outside the building are open 24 hours. gyiyuan Lu/Mentsikhang Lam) Contact Sonam. China Construction Bank ATM (中国建设 There are plenty of other travel agencies, though 银行; Zhōngguó Jiànshè Yínháng; Map p48 ; most cater to Chinese tourists, who don’t re- Zangyiyuan Lu/Mentsikhang Lam; h24hr) The quire travel permits. 8 Getting There & Away Zhōngdiān, Golmud and Xīníng. Private cars While there are a number of ways to get to also run from here and are more likely to take 77 Lhasa, the most popular routes are by air from foreigners but cost about double the cheapest Chéngdū (in Sìchuān), by train from Xīníng, and bus fare per seat. overland or by air from Kathmandu. For details Private buses to Shigatse, Nagchu and Damx- of getting into Tibet, see p 352 . ung (Dāngxióng) also run from between the Yak and Kirey Hotels on Beijing Donglu between Air 7.30am and 8.30am. LHASA Flying out of Lhasa is considerably easier than The Eastern Bus Station (东郊客运站; 8 fl ying in. No permits are necessary – just turn up Dōngjiāo Kèyùnzhàn; Map p 44 ; Jiangsu Donglu) to the Civil Aviation Authority of China offi ce has frequent minibuses to Lhundrub (Línzhōu)

中国民航 & AWAY THERE 8 GETTING (CAAC; ; Zhōngguó Mínháng; Map p 44 ; and Medro Gongkar (Mòzhú Gōngkǎ), from %683 3446; 1 Niangre Lu; h9am-6.30pm) and outside the main station, plus daily buses to buy a ticket. In August and around national holi- Drigung Til and Reting Monastery. days (p 343 ), you’d be wise to book your ticket at Lhasa’s chaotic Lugu Bus Stand (Map p 48 ) is least a week in advance. Ask about a free airport southwest of Barkhor Sq and has several depar- transfer if you buy your ticket here. tures daily to Chushul, Yangpachen and Nyemo, To book a ticket you need to complete a form, but timings are awkward and information hard get a reservation and then pay the cashier (cash to fi nd. only). You can buy separate onward tickets from Lhasa’s Northern Bus Station (北郊客运站; Chéngdū here, but not at discounted prices. Běijiāo Qìchē Kèyùnzhàn; Map p 79 ; Zaji Lu) has Air China (中国国际民航; Zhōngguó Guójì sleeper buses to Ali (Y650 to Y750, 60 hours) Mínháng; Map p48 ; %681 9777; www.airchina. in western Tibet, as well as buses to Zhangmu, com.cn; 48 Beijing Zhonglu; h9am-7.30pm) No Yadong, Markham, Zhōngdiān and Shigatse. credit cards. Rental Vehicles China Southern (中国南方航空; Zhōngguó Nánfāng Hángkōng; Map p48 ; %683 1868; Rental vehicles are currently the only way to get www.csair.com; 33 Beijing Zhonglu) around Tibet. Bus & Minibus Train TO/FROM CHINA It’s possible to ride the rails up onto the Ti- betan plateau all the way to Lhasa. There are The arrival of the train has pushed the sleeper daily trains to/from Běijīng, Xī’níng/Lánzhōu buses into irrelevancy. There are still daily and Chéngdū/Chóngqìng, and services either sleeper services to Golmud (20 hours), Xīníng daily or every other day to Xī’ān, Shànghǎi (2½ days) and even Chéngdū (three days and and Guǎngzhōu. See p 356 for fares and other four nights, via Golmud) but you’re better off details. All trains from Lhasa depart between taking the train. 7.30am and 1pm, while all trains to Lhasa arrive AROUND TIBET in the evening. The train station is 4km south- At the time of research foreigners were not west of town. A service to Shigatse is due to allowed to take bus services around Tibet and begin in the next few years. had to arrange their own transport (see p 29 ). In You can buy train tickets up to 10 days in ad- case this changes, the following public transport vance at the Lhasa train station ticket offi ce operates. (h7am-10pm) or the more centrally located Buses to popular pilgrim destinations leave city ticket offi ce (火车票代售处; Huǒchēpiào early in the morning from the west side of Dàishòuchù; Map p 44 ; Deji Beilu; h9-11.30am Barkhor Sq. Buses leave between 6.30am and & 1-5pm). Note that it’s generally much easier to 7.30am for Ganden Monastery, Tsurphu Mon- get tickets from Lhasa than to Lhasa. astery, Drak Yerpa, Tsetang (Shannan), Samye To get from the train station into town take bus and Dranang. Samye tickets are sold from a tin 89 to the centre or take bus 91 over the Lhasa shack just north of the square on Zangyiyuan Lu Bridge to the terminus near the Eastern Bus (Mentsikhang Lam). Buses depart when full, so Station and then hop on bus 97 to Beijing Don- expect lots of hanging around. glu. To get to the station catch bus 89 just south At the time of research the main Western of the Barkhor on Jiangsu Lu or take bus 91/97 Bus Station (西郊客运站; Xījiāo Kèyùnzhàn; in the opposite direction. Buses run every 20 Map p44 ; Jinzhu Xilu) wasn’t selling bus tickets minutes from 6.30am to 10.30pm. A taxi costs to foreigners. In case this changes there are around Y30. hourly services to Shigatse (Y54 to Y84), Tse- tang (Y33 to Y43) and Nagchu (Nǎqū; Y57 to 8 Getting Around Y84), plus a daily service to Gyantse (Y74) and For those travellers based in the Tibetan quar- long-distance services to Chamdo, Markham, ter of Lhasa, most of the major inner-Lhasa sights are within fairly easy walking distance. Pedicab 78 For sights such as the Norbulingka over in the There is no shortage of pedicabs plying the west of town, it’s better to jump in a taxi or rent streets of Lhasa, but they require endless hag- a bicycle. gling and are only really useful for short trips (around Y5). At least most are Tibetan owned. To/From the Airport Always fi x the price before getting in. Modern Gongkar airport is 66km from Lhasa, via the Gālá Shān tunnel and bridge. A new highway Taxi LHASA along the eastern side of the Kyi-chu river will Taxis charge a standard fare of Y10 for the further shave off some distance when it opens fi rst 5km (then Y2 per subsequent kilometre), in 2011. resulting in a Y10 ride almost anywhere within

AROUND LHASA Airport buses (%682 7727) leave up to 10 the city. times a day (Y25, 1¼ hours) between 7.30am and 1pm from beside the CAAC building and are timed to meet fl ights. From the airport, buses wait for fl ights outside the terminal building. Buy AROUND LHASA tickets on the bus. Within a short bus or taxi ride or easy cyc A taxi to the airport costs Y150 to Y200. ling distance of central Lhasa are the im- pressive Gelugpa monasteries of Sera and Bicycle Drepung. Both are must-sees, even if you Bicycles are a good way to get around Lhasa have only a brief stay in Lhasa. Current once you have acclimatised to the altitude. regulations require foreign tourists to visit Thaizand Bicycle Tours (泰山单车; Tàishān Drepung, Sera and Ganden Monasteries in Dānchē; Map p 48 ; %691 0898; thaizand@ the company of a registered guide. hotmail.com; Kirey Hotel, 105 Beijing Donglu) See the Ü map (Map p 96 ) for the loca- rents quality mountain bikes for Y40 to Y80 per tion of Drak Yerpa, Drölma Lhakhang and day, with a helmet and pads, and can advise on Shugsheb Nunnery. routes and tours. A couple of bike rental places (捷安特自行车 专卖店; Jiéāntè Zìxíngchē Zhuānmàidiàn; Map p48 ; h10am-9pm) opposite the Banak Shol Ho- Drepung Monastery tel rent decent Giant-brand mountain bikes for 哲蚌寺 Y30 per day. Bicycle theft is a problem in Lhasa, འ ས་ ང་ so be sure to park your bike in designated areas About 8km west of central Lhasa, Drepung (Y1). A lock and chain is a good idea. (Zhébàng Sì; admission Y50, h9.30am-5.30pm) was once one of the world’s largest mon- Minibuses & City Buses asteries. The word Drepung literally trans- Buses (Y1) and private minibuses (Y2) are fre- lates as ‘rice heap’, a reference to the huge quent on Beijing Donglu, and if you need to get numbers of white monastic buildings that up to western Lhasa this is the cheapest way once piled up on the hillside. It suff ered to do it. through the ages with assaults by the kings Useful bus routes: of Tsang and the Mongols, but was left Bus 89 From the train station to the Eastern relatively unscathed during the Cultural Bus Station, via the Western Bus Station, TTB Revolution and there is still much of in- office, Potala Palace, Lhasa Department Store terest intact. Rebuilding and resettlement and Jiangsu Lu. continue at a pace unmatched elsewhere in Bus 106 From Beijing Donglu to the Potala, TTB Tibet and the site once again resembles a office and Norbulingka. small village, with around 600 monks resi- Bus 109 From Beijing Donglu to the Western dent out of a pre-Liberation total of around Bus Station, via the CAAC office, Linkuo Xilu, 7000. Bank of China, Beijing Zhonglu and Norbul- The best way to visit the chapels is to fol- ingka; returning to Beijing Donglu via Luobu- low the pilgrims or, failing that, the yellow linka Lu. signs. Interior photography costs Y10 to Minibus 205 From Beijing Donglu to the East- Y20 per chapel. A restaurant near the bus ern Bus Station. stop serves reviving tea by the glass, as well Minibus 301 From the Eastern Bus Station as bowls of shemdre (Y6) and momos. to Beijing Donglu, CAAC, Zang Gyab Lukhang Park, Bank of China, Lhasa Hotel and the turn- HISTORY off to Drepung Monastery. Drepung was founded in 1416 by a charis- matic monk and disciple of Tsongkhapa 04 km Around Lhasa 0 2 miles A B C D 79 To Gare (Samdeling) 2 Nunnery 12 7 Gyaltsen Ri 1 9 8 1 1 Dode Valley 11 Keutsang Ruins LHASA AROUND LHASA 5 e Lhasa Military 13 d Hospital ) (Do d R Gephel Ri 10 eilu

i B 8 DREPUNG MONASTERY (5240m) orth N uod D Sela Beilu Qila Lu (Sera North Rd)

Niangre Beilu (Nyangdren 2 North Rd) 2 Cisongtan Lu Stadium Drapchi 4 Gymnasium Prison 8 3 6 Lhalu Drapchi Rd Wetland (Zaji Lu) Northern Bus Station

To Drak Yerpa Beijin (15km) (Beijing Xilu The Lin g West R Potala kuo Beilu (Linkuo North Rd) To Nam-tso d) (240km) The The 3 Norbulingka Chagpo Ri Jokhang 3 (3756m) To Ganden Monastery To Shugsheb To Lhasa Train (51km) Nunnery (40km) Station (3km) Bumpa Ri A B C D called Jamyang Chöje. Within just a year of Around Lhasa completion the monastery had attracted a population of some 2000 monks. æ Sights In 1530 the second Dalai Lama estab- 1 Chupsang Nunnery ...... C1 lished the Ganden Palace, the palace that 2 Dadren Ritrö Hermitage...... C1 was home to the Dalai Lamas until the fi fth 3 Drapchi Monastery...... D2 built the Potala. It was from here that the 4 Drepung Monastery ...... A2 early Dalai Lamas exercised their politi- 5 Keutsang Ritrö...... D1 cal as well as religious control over central 6 Nechung Monastery...... A2 Tibet, and the second, third and fourth Da- 7 Pabonka Monastery ...... C1 lai Lamas are all entombed here. 8 Phurbu Chok Monastery...... D1 9 Rakadrak Hermitage ...... D1 GANDEN PALACE 10 Sera Monastery ...... C2 From the car park, pass the woodblock and 11 Sera Ütse...... D1 juniper stalls and follow the kora clock- 12 Tashi Chöling Hermitage ...... C1 wise around the outside of the monastery 13 Viewpoint ...... D1 until you reach the steps up to the Ganden Palace. The fi rst hall on the left is the Sanga during the Shötun festival. The upper fl oor Tratsang, a recently renovated chapel hous- of the main building has three chapels that ing statues of the protectors Namtöse (Vai- make up the apartments of the early Dalai rocana), Nagpo Chenpo (Mahakala), Dorje Lamas. The second of the three chapels, to Jigje (Yamantaka), Chögyel (Dharmaraja), the right, is an audience room with wonder- Palden Lhamo (Shri Devi; on a horse) and fully detailed murals and the throne of the Dorje Drakden (the Nechung oracle; see fi fth Dalai Lama, next to a thousand-armed the box, p83 ), all arranged around a central statue of Chenresig. The third is a simple statue of the fi fth Dalai Lama. living room. Head up the stairs and then across the From here descend and cross over to a main courtyard, where performances of fi nal chapel whose entrance is defaced by cham (a ritual dance) are still performed a Cultural Revolution–era political slogan e# 0200m Drepung Monastery 00.1miles 80 A B C D

‚ To Drepung From Kora Kora 10 66‚ 1 1 9 14 LHASA 8 13 #Ú 11 12 AROUND LHASA 66 #æ 7 Thangka 5 6 15 #æ 16 Wall 4 2 #Ú 2

18 #Ú 3 17 22 #æ 23 2 #Ú 20 21 #Ú 1 19 24 Rock 29 Painting #æ 28 #æ 25 3 26 3 #æ #æ 27 30 #Ú White Chörten D r y C Ticket r Shop e Office #þ ek Tibetan #î # Clinic #› #ú Monastery 4 Restaurant 4 #þ #ñ To Nechung Shops Monastery

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A B C D

(Mao’s image was only recently removed). disciples, the Buddhas of the Three Ages, Signs lead past a refreshment stand and a and nine chörtens above. The walls and corner shrine to Drölma to the exit to the pillars are lined with statues of the eight north. bodhisattvas. To the front centre there is also a youthful-looking statue of Lam- MAIN ASSEMBLY HALL drin Rinpoche (a former abbot of Drepung The main assembly hall, or tsogchen, is the recognisable by his black-rimmed glasses); principal structure in the Drepung com- next to it is his chörten. To the east is Tsong- plex. The hall is reached through an en- khapa, the founder of the Gelugpa sect. on the west side, just past a kitchen, Sculptures of interest in the main hall whose medieval-looking giant cauldrons include a two-storey Jampelyang (Man- and ladles look like a set from the fi lm The jushri), accompanied by the 13th Dalai Name of the Rose. Lama; Sakyamuni; Tsongkhapa; Jamyang The huge interior is very atmospheric, Chöje, in a cabinet to the right; the seventh draped with thangkas and supported by Dalai Lama; and to the right Sakyamuni, over 180 columns, of which the ones near fl anked by fi ve of the Dalai Lamas. At ei- the western protector chapel are decorated ther end of the altar you will fi nd a group with ancient chainmail and bows. of eight (literally ‘worthy ones’). Pil- The back-room chapel features the pro- grims walk under the long cabinet on the tector deities Chana Dorje (Vajrapani, blue) eastern wall, which holds a huge building- and Tamdrin (Hayagriva, red), and con- sized thangka which is unveiled during the tains statues of Sakyamuni with his two Shötun festival. Drepung Monastery 81 æ Sights 15 Udu Kangtsang...... B2 1 Sanga Tratsang ...... A3 16 Tsor Kangtsang...... C2 2 Debating Courtyard...... B3 17 Loseling College ...... B2 3 Ganden Palace...... A2 18 Gomang College...... C2 4 Nyango Kangtsang...... A2 19 Deyang College ...... C3

5 Kitchen ...... A2 20 Lamba Mitze...... C3 LHASA AROUND LHASA 6 Main Assembly Hall...... B2 21 Jurche Mitze...... C3 7 Chapel ...... A2 22 Lumbum Kangtsang ...... C2

8 College...... A1 23 Hua Mitze...... C2 8 DREPUNG MONASTERY 9 Pindu Mitze ...... A1 24 Khamdung Kangtsang...... C3 10 Samlo Kangtsang ...... B1 25 Tsokha Mitze ...... C3 11 Jampelyang Temple...... B2 26 Small Debating Courtyard...... C3

12 Jamyang Chöje Meditation 27 College ...... B3 8 Cave...... B2 28 College ...... B3 13 Residence...... C1 29 Minyang Kangstang ...... B3 14 Main Debating Courtyard ...... C1 30 College ...... B3

Back by the main entrance, steps lead up NGAGPA COLLEGE to the 1st and 2nd fl oors. At the top of the Ngagpa is one of Drepung’s four colleges, stairs is the Hall of the Kings of Tibet, fea- and was devoted to Tantric study. The cha- turing statues of Tibet’s early kings, as well pel is dedicated to bull-headed Dorje Jigje as Lobsang Gyatso (the fi fth Dalai Lama), (Yamantaka), a Tantric meditational deity and then a chapel containing the head of who serves as an opponent to the forces of a two-storey Jampa statue. Pilgrims pros- . The cartoon-style Dorje trate themselves here and drink from a sa- Jigje image in the inner sanctum is said cred conch shell. to have been fashioned by Tsongkhapa Continue moving clockwise through the himself. Walking clockwise, other statues Sakyamuni Chapel, stuff ed with chörtens, include Palden Lhamo (fi rst clockwise, rid- and then descend to the Miwang Lha- ing a horse), Nagpo Chenpo (third), Drölma khang. This chapel contains the assembly (fourth), Tsongkhapa (fi fth), the fi fth Dalai hall’s most revered image, a massive statue Lama (seventh) and, by the door, the Nec- of Jampa, the Future Buddha, at the age hung oracle. Look for bull-headed Chögyel of 12. The statue rises through three fl oors to the side, his hand almost thrusting out of of the building from a ground-fl oor chapel the expanded glass cabinet. that is usually closed, and it is fl anked by To get a feel for what Drepung was like Tsongkhapa to the left and Jamyang Chöje before the renovation teams arrived, de- to the right. The chörtens behind the statue tour briefl y up to the Samlo Kangtsang, contain the remains of the second Dalai unrestored and surrounded by melancholic Lama and Jamyang Chöje. At the front ruins. right are statues representing seven of the As you follow the pilgrim path (clockwise) Dalai Lamas. around the back of the assembly hall you Descend to the Drölma chapel. Drölma will pass the small Jampelyang Temple, is a protective deity, and in this case the where pilgrims pour yak butter on the wall three Drölma images in the chapel (to the and then peer in to see a holy rock painting immediate right) are responsible for pro- and get hit on the back with a holy iron rod. tecting Drepung’s drinking water, wealth Just a little further, tucked in on the right, is and authority respectively. There are also the tiny meditation cave of Jamyang Chöje, some fi ne examples of gold-inked Tibetan with some fi ne rock paintings. scriptures here. The central stat- ue is a form of Sakyamuni, whose amulet LOSELING COLLEGE contains one of Tsongkhapa’s teeth. Loseling is the largest of Drepung’s col- Exit the building from the western side leges, and studies here were devoted to of the 2nd fl oor. logic. The main hall houses a throne used by the Dalai Lamas, an extensive library, 82 THE BUMPA RI TREK

The demanding but excellent fi ve-hour return trek up imposing Bumpa Ri, the holy peak to the southeast of Lhasa, is worth attempting if you’re fi t and acclimatised. It’s straight up and then straight down, but off ers unparalleled views over the Holy City, either from the top or just part of the way. From the Eastern Bus Station it’s a 10-minute walk south over the Lhasa Bridge to LHASA the base of the hill, where a path ascends to a chörten and incense-burning site. From here faint trails head straight up the hillside to the third small ridge, where a faint trail branches to the right. In general, aim for the pylon, to meet up with the main trail. AROUND LHASA After an hour you reach a ridge with views of the summit spires ahead. It’s another hour’s climb from here to the summit, following the trail to the right of the spires, over a spur and then up a gully to the two main summits, festooned in prayer fl ags. From the top it’s a two-hour descent back down the way you came.

and a long altar decorated with statues of DEYANG COLLEGE & OTHER the fi fth, seventh and eighth Dalai Lamas, COLLEGES Tsongkhapa and former Drepung abbots. The smallest of Drepung’s colleges, this one The two chörtens of Loseling’s earlier ab- can safely be missed if you’ve had enough. bots are covered with off erings. There are The principal image in the main hall is three chapels to the rear of the hall. The one Jampa, fl anked by Jampelyang, Drölma, the to the left houses 16 arhats, which pilgrims fi fth Dalai Lama and others. walk under in a circuit. The central chapel East of here is a cluster of friendly col- has a large statue of Jampa and a self-arisen leges that the tour groups never reach, stone painting of the Nechung oracle; the including the Lamba Mitze, Lumbum chapel to the right has a small but beautiful Kangtsang, Jurche Mitze, once home to statue of Sakyamuni. students from Inner Mongolia, and then On the 2nd fl oor you’ll pass a small print- round to the Khamdung Kangtsang, the ing press to enter a small chapel full of upstairs back hallway of which is defaced angry deities, and then you pass under the with faded Mao slogans and images. More body of a stuff ed goat draped with one-mao buildings sport English signs saying that notes before entering the spooky gönkhang visitors are welcome. (protector chapel). There are more protec- If you’re here in the afternoon, save some tive deities here, including the main Dorje time to watch the monk-debating (lots of Jigje (Yamantaka), plus Nagpo Chenpo shouting, hand slapping and gesticulation) (six-armed Mahakala), Dorje Drakden and between 2.30pm and 4.30pm in the main Dorje Lekpa. debating courtyard in the northeast cor- If you have time, pop into the small de- ner of the monastery (photos Y15). bating courtyard west of Loseling College. Monks sometimes do their music practise DREPUNG KORA in the garden here, blowing huge horns and This lovely kora climbs up to around 3900m crashing cymbals. and probably should not be attempted until you’ve had four or fi ve days to acclimatise GOMANG COLLEGE in Lhasa. The walk takes about an hour at Gomang is the second largest of Drepung’s a leisurely pace (it is possible to do it more colleges and follows the same layout as quickly at hiking speed). Look for the path Loseling. The main hall has a whole row that continues uphill from the turn-off to of images, including Jampa, Tsepame and the Ganden Palace. The path passes several the seventh Dalai Lama. Again, there are rock paintings, climbs up past a high wall three chapels to the rear: the one to the left used to hang a giant thangka during the houses three deities of longevity, but more Shötun festival (p 22 ), peaks at a valley of important is the central chapel, chock-a- prayer fl ags, and then descends to the east block with images. As at Loseling, there is via an encased Drölma (Tara) statue and a single protector chapel on the upper fl oor. several more rock carvings. There are ex- Women are not allowed into this chapel. cellent views along the way. 8 Getting There & Away the outer courtyard. Tantric drumming The easy way to get out to Drepung is by minibus booms from the depths of the building like 83 301, 302 and 303, which run from Beijing Donglu a demonic heartbeat. For images of Dorje to the foot of the Drepung hill. From here a coach Drakden, the protective spirit manifested runs up to the monastery (Y1). A taxi from the in the State Oracle, see the back-room cha- Barkhor is Y30. pel to the left of the main hall. The statue in the left corner shows Dorje Drakden in

his wrathful aspect, so terrible that his face LHASA AROUND LHASA Nechung Monastery must be covered; the version on the right 乃琼寺 has him in a slightly more conciliatory གནས་ ང་ ་ཚང་ frame of mind. The la-shing (sacred tree) in 8 NECHUNG MONASTERY Only 10 minutes’ walk downhill from Dre- between the two is the home of Pehar. pung Monastery, Nechung (Nǎiqióng Sì; ad- The far right chapel has an amazing mission Y10; h8.30am-5pm) is worth a visit and a statue of the Dzogchen de- for its historical role as the seat of the Ti- spirit trap

ity Ekajati, recognisable by her single fang 8 betan State Oracle until 1959. The oracle and eye and representing the power of con- was the medium of Dorje Drakden, an as- centration. On the 1st fl oor is an audience pect of Pehar, the Gelugpa protector of the chamber, whose throne was used by the Buddhist state, and the Dalai Lamas would Dalai Lamas when they consulted with the make no important decision without fi rst State Oracle. The 2nd fl oor features a huge consulting him. The oracle was not infal- new statue of a wrathful Guru Rinpoche. lible, however; in 1904 the oracle resigned Don’t miss the fi ne murals in the exterior in disgrace after failing to predict the inva- courtyard. sion of the British under Younghusband. In Nechung is easily reached on foot after 1959 the State Oracle fl ed to with the visiting Drepung, en route to the main road. Dalai Lama. A path leads past stone-carvers to the mon- Nechung is an eerie place associated astery (10 minutes). with possession, exorcism and other pre- Buddhist rites. The blood-red doors at the entrance are painted with fl ayed human skins and scenes of torture line the top of Sera Monastery  ་ར་ད ན་པ་ 色拉寺 Approximately 5km north of central Lhasa, THE NECHUNG ORACLE Sera Monastery (Sèlā Sì; adult/under 8yr h was one of Lhasa’s two Every New Year in Lhasa until 1959, Y55/free; 9am-5pm) great Gelugpa monasteries, second only to the Dalai Lama consulted the Nec- Drepung. Its once-huge monastic popula- hung oracle on important matters of tion of around 5000 monks has now been state. In preparation for the ordeal, reduced by 90% and building repairs are the oracle would strap on eye-shaped still continuing. Nevertheless the monastery bracelets and an elaborate headdress is worth a visit, particularly in the morning of feathers, so heavy that it had to be when the monastery is at its most active, but lifted onto his head by two men. also between 3pm and 5pm (not weekends), The oracle would then whip himself when debating is usually held in the monas- into a trance in an attempt to dislodge tery’s debating courtyard. Chapels start to his spirit from his body. Eyewitness close at 3pm, so it makes sense to see the accounts describe how his eyeballs monastery chapels before heading to the swelled and rolled up into his sockets, debating. and how his mouth opened wide, his Interior photography costs Y15 to Y30 tongue curling upward as his face red- per chapel; video fees are an outrageous dened. As he began to discern the fu- Y850. Near the monastery entrance there is ture in a steel mirror, the oracle would a simple but pleasant restaurant-teahouse. answer questions in an anguished, tortured, hissing voice, and the an- HISTORY swers would be interpreted and writ- Sera was founded in 1419 by Sakya Yeshe, a ten on a small blackboard. After the disciple of Tsongkhapa also known by the trance the oracle would faint from the honorifi c title Jamchen Chöje. In its heyday, ordeal and have to be carried away. Sera hosted fi ve colleges of instruction, but at the time of the Chinese invasion in 1959 and wearing a hat), alongside Dorje Jigje. 84 there were just three: Sera Me specialised Don’t miss the masks, iron thunderbolts in the fundamental precepts of Buddhism; and antique bows hanging from the ceiling. Sera Je in the instruction of itinerant Women cannot enter this chapel. To the monks from outside central Tibet; and Sera left of the entrance is a three-dimensional Ngagpa in Tantric studies. wooden mandala. Sera survived the ravages of the Cultural Continue to the central chapel, which

LHASA Revolution with light damage, although contains statues of the Past, Present and many of the lesser colleges were destroyed. Future Buddhas, as well as 16 arhats de- picted in their mountain grottos. SERA ME COLLEGE The next chapel is home to Miwang AROUND LHASA Follow the pilgrims clockwise, past the Jowo, a central Sakyamuni statue that Shompa Kangtsang and Tsa Kangtsang dates from the 15th century and is the most residential halls and several minor build- sacred of the college’s statues. At the back ings, to the Sera Me College. This college are Tsepame and eight bodhisattvas. The dates back to the original founding of the entrance to the chapel is guarded by the monastery. protectors Tamdrin (Hayagriva; red) and The central image of the impressive main Miyowa (Achala; blue). The last chapel is hall is a copper Sakyamuni, fl anked by Jam- dedicated to Tsongkhapa and there are also pa (left) and Jampelyang. To the rear of the images of several Dalai Lamas, as well as of hall are four chapels. To the left is a dark Sakya Yeshe, Sera’s founder and fi rst abbot. chapel dedicated to the protector There are two chapels on the upper of the east, Ta-og (in an ornate brass case fl oor. The fi rst, after you mount the stairs,

e# 0200m Sera Monastery 00.1miles

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A B C D is dedicated to Sakyamuni, depicted in deity of Sera, and there is often a long an unusual standing form. The second is line of shuffl ing pilgrims waiting to touch 85 a Drölma chapel with 1000 statues of this their – and especially their children’s – fore- protective deity. The third has 1000 statues heads to his feet in respect. Monks sell holy of Chenresig, as well as a huge brass pot in threads, protective amulets and sacred pills the corner. here, as well as red slips of inscribed paper, which pilgrims buy to burn for the recently SERA NGAGPA COLLEGE deceased. The ornate brass shrine recalls LHASA AROUND LHASA A Tantric college, Ngagpa is also the oldest the temples of the Kathmandu Valley. Take structure at Sera. The main hall is domi- a look at the weapons, hats and masks nated by a statue of Sakya Yeshe (wearing hanging from the ceiling. There is a second 8 SERA MONASTERY a black hat), behind the throne, surround- chapel for him on the upper fl oor, but there ed by other famous Sera lamas. There are he is in another aspect with nine heads. three chapels to the rear of the hall, the The fi rst chapel to the rear of the hall is fi rst featuring Jampa and thousand-armed

devoted to a lovely statue of Sakyamuni, 8 Chenresig, the second with 16 arhats and seated below a fi ne canopy and ceiling man- a large Sakyamuni statue, and the third dala. Pilgrims climb steps to the right to with a statue of the protective deity Dorje touch his left leg. The next two chapels are Jigje, as well as Namtöse (Vaishravana), dedicated to Tsongkhapa, with Sakyamuni the guardian of the north, to the right, who and Öpagme (Amitabha); and to Jampely- rides a snow lion and holds a mongoose ang, fl anked by Jampa and another Jam- that vomits jewels. There are also a couple pelyang. From here head to the upstairs of rooms upstairs featuring Tsepame and chapels. the eight medicine buddhas (Menlha). To the northeast of Sera Je is Sera’s de- After exiting, most pilgrims pay a visit to bating courtyard. There is usually debat- the Jarung Kangtsang residential college. ing practise here on weekday afternoons from around 3pm to 5pm, which provides SERA JE COLLEGE a welcome relief from peering at Buddhist This is the largest of Sera’s colleges, gener- . You will hear it (with much ally accessed from a western side entrance. clapping of hands to emphasise points) It has a breathtaking main hall, hung with as you approach Sera Je. Foreign photog- thangkas and lit by shafts of light from raphers circle the site like vultures at a sky high windows. Several chörtens hold the burial. remains of Sera’s most famous lamas. To the left of the hall is a passage leading, HAMDONG KANGTSANG via a chapel dedicated to the Past, Present Hamdong served as a residence for monks and Future Buddhas, to the most sacred of studying at Sera Je College. The back left Sera Monastery’s chapels, the Chapel of chapel contains a bearded image of a Sera Tamdrin. Tamdrin (Hayagriva) is a wrath- lama who died in 1962; in a case to the ful meditational deity whose name means right is an image of Drölma, who is said to ‘horse headed’. He is the chief protective protect Sera’s water supply. Look for three

Sera Monastery æ Sights 12 Hamdong Kangtsang...... B1 1 Mani Lhakhang ...... B3 13 Dema Kangtsang...... C2 2 Shompa Kangtsang...... B3 14 Drölma Rock Shrine...... C2 3 Tsomoling ...... B3 15 Main Assembly Hall...... C2 4 Chetsa Kangtsang...... B3 16 Kitchen...... C2 5 Sera Me College...... B3 17 Gyansok Khang ...... C3 6 Minor Debating 18 ...... B2 Courtyard...... B2 19 Printing Press...... B2 7 Sera Ngagpa College...... B2 20 Gongbo Kangtsang ...... C3 8 Jarung Kangtsang ...... B2 21 Thangka Wall ...... C2 9 Sera Je College ...... B2 22 Chöding Hermitage...... D2 10 ...... B1 23 Mani Lhakhang ...... C2 11 Debating Courtyard...... B2 24 Hermit Caves...... D3 86 DIY: TREKKING THE DODE VALLEY

From the Sera Monastery kora you can make a great half-day trek up to the Sera Ütse retreat above the monastery and then around the ridge to the little-visited retreats of the Dode Valley (Map p79 ). You shouldn’t attempt the trek until you are well acclima- tised to the altitude. From Sera the steep relentless climb up to the yellow-walled Sera Ütse retreat LHASA takes at least an hour (look up and see it high on the cliff above Sera; if that doesn’t put you off , you’ll be fi ne!). Take the path towards the Chöding hermitage (see p 87 ) and branch off to the left before you get there, climbing the ridge via a switchback AROUND LHASA path until you reach the yellow building perched high above the valley. Sera Ütse was a retreat used by Tsongkhapa (his drub-puk, or meditation cave, can be visited) and is currently home to two monks. You can also reach the retreat directly from Pabonka’s Tashi Chöling hermitage (p 88 ), but trailfi nding is harder. From the Ütse continue east along a level trail for 10 minutes to a superb view- point, probably Lhasa’s most scenic picnic spot. From here the main trail continues east down into the Dode Valley, though it’s possible for fi t climbers to detour straight up the hillside to the summit, a knob of rock covered in prayer fl ags. The main trail descends to the small Rakadrak hermitage, where you can visit three simple caves associated with Tsongkhapa. Five minutes’ walk below Rakadrak is the larger Keutsang Ritrö, a retreat complex home to 23 monks. The original hermitage lies in ruins in an incredible location on the side of the sheer cliff -face to the east. A painting inside the main chapel (to the right) depicts the original. As you leave the complex a path to the left leads to the dramatic ruins but the trail is danger- ous and ends in a sheer drop. The far section of the ruins can only be reached from the other side of the cliff . From the Keutsang Ritrö follow the dirt road downhill and after 10 minutes branch left for the short uphill hike to the Phurbu Chok Monastery and its hilltop Rigsum Gonpo Lhakhang (an hour detour in total from the road). You can spot two nunner- ies from here; Negodong to the east and Mechungri to the southeast. Back at the junction, descend to the main road to fl ag down bus 601 or 603, which terminates at Linkuo Beilu, just north of the Ramoche Temple. On the ride back it’s worth getting off at Zaji (Drapchi) Lu to visit Drapchi Monas- tery (扎基寺; Zājī Sì), an active and unusual monastery that is located near Lhasa’s most notorious political prison. Huge amounts of rice wine and chang (barley beer) are off ered continuously to the local protectress Drapchi Lhamo and the site has an almost animist feel to it.

photos of , the Japanese Of the three chapels to the rear of the monk who studied here in disguise in 1901. hall, the central is the most important, As you walk downhill, note the wonder- with its 6m-high Jampa statue. The statue ful rock paintings depicting Jampelyang, rises up to the upper fl oor, where it can also Chenresig, Chana Dorje (Vajrapani) and be viewed from a central chapel. Also on Green Tara. the upper fl oor (to the far left of the cen- tral chapel) is a highly revered statue of a MAIN ASSEMBLY HALL (TSOGCHEN) thousand-armed Chenresig. Pilgrims put The main assembly hall is the largest of their forehead to a pole that connects them Sera’s buildings and dates back to 1710. The directly and literally to the heart of com- central hall is particularly impressive and is passion. The pilgrim path enters the build- noted for its wall-length thangkas and two- ing from the back so this may be the fi rst storey statue of Jampa. He is surrounded by chapel you come across, before descending other fi gures, including Dalai Lamas on the to the prayer hall. right, while to the left is the large throne of the 13th Dalai Lama. Left of the throne PRINTING PRESS is a fi gure of Sakya Yeshe, recognisable by Before leaving the monastery it’s worth his black hat. having a look at the printing blocks in this new hall. Photos are Y5. Prints made on site The fi rst building you come across is are for sale. A small building to the side the Rigsum Gonpo Temple, jam-packed 87 holds a sand mandala. with shrines, whose most famous relic is the blue and gold carved ‘om mani SERA KORA padme hum’ (‘hail to the jewel in the lo- The Sera kora takes less than an hour and tus’) that faces the entrance on the far side is well worth the time. It starts outside the of the hall. The central shrine contains a entrance and heads west, following an arc 1300-year-old ‘self-arising’ (not man-made) LHASA AROUND LHASA around the monastery walls. On the east- carving depicting Chenresig, Jampelyang ern descent, look out for several brightly and Chana Dorje (Vajrapani) – the Rig- coloured rock paintings. The largest ones sum Gonpo trinity after which the chapel 8 PABONKA MONASTERY on the eastern side of the monastery are of is named. The stone carvings were buried Dorje Jigje, Tsongkhapa and others. Next to during the Cultural Revolution and only the rock paintings is a support wall used to dug up in 1985. hang a giant thangka during festivals.

Continue uphill, turn left at the row of 8 A path leads up the side steps of this wall chörtens, and follow the road clockwise to the Chöding hermitage. The hermitage around the Pabonka rock (said to represent was a retreat of Tsongkhapa, and predates a female tortoise) to the Palden Lhamo Sera. There is not a great deal to see, but it Cave on the west side, where King Songt- is a short walk and the views from the her- sen Gampo once meditated. Images inside mitage are worthwhile. A path continues are of Songtsen Gampo (with a turban), his south around the hillside past a holy spring two wives, Guru Rinpoche, Trisong Detsen to a point that has fi ne views of Sera and (in the corner) and a rock carving of the Lhasa beyond. protectress Palden Lhamo. 8 Pabonka Podrang sits atop the ancient Getting There & Away rock. There is nothing to see on the ground Sera is only a half-hour bicycle ride from the fl oor, but the upper fl oor has an intimate as- Barkhor area of Lhasa. Alternatively, head sembly hall with a picture of the current Pa- down to the intersection of Beijing Donglu and bonka Lama and a ‘self-arising’ Chenresig Zhisenge/Qingnian Lu and catch minibus 503 statue hidden behind a pillar to the right. (Y2, every 10 minutes) from just north of the intersection. Minibuses 501 and 502 also run to The inner protector chapel has a statue of Sera. A taxi costs around Y10. red-faced local protector Gonpo Dashey Marpa (second from the right). The four- pillared Kashima Lhakhang next door is Pabonka Monastery lined with various lamas, three kings and their wives. The cosy rooftop quarters of ཕ་ ང་ཁ་ད ན་པ་ the Dalai Lama have a statue of the medita- One of the most ancient Buddhist sites in the tional deity Demchok (Chakrasamvara), and Lhasa region, Pabonka Monastery (admis- an ancient dungkhar (conch shell) wrapped sion free; hdawn-dusk) is infrequently visit- in a kathak (prayer scarf), along with fi ne ed, but is only a one-hour walk (or short taxi views back towards Lhasa. ride) from the Sera Monastery turn-off and Further above the Pabonka Podrang are is worth the eff ort. the remains of 108 chörtens and the yel- Built on a fl at-topped granite boulder low Gyasa Podrang, or temple of Princess said to resemble a tortoise, Pabonka may Wencheng. The two ground-fl oor rooms are even predate the Jokhang and Ramoche. dedicated to fi ve manifestations of Tsong- King Songtsen Gampo built the monastery khapa and the medicine buddhas, and an in the 7th century and he, his Chinese wife upper-fl oor chapel has a small statue of Princess Wencheng, Tibetan king Trisong Wencheng herself in the far right, near an Detsen, Guru Rinpoche and Tibet’s fi rst image of (who reput- seven monks all meditated here at various edly invented the Tibetan here). times. The nine-storey tower was destroyed Songtsen Gampo’s Nepali wife Bhrikuti is in 841 by the anti-Buddhist King Lang- also present, as are images on the other side dharma and rebuilt in the 11th century. The of the room of Green and White Drölma, of fi fth Dalai Lama added an extra fl oor to the whom the two wives are thought to be ema- two-storey building. It suff ered damage in nations. Also present is Gar Tsongtsen, the the Cultural Revolution and has undergone Tibetan minister who travelled to the Tang repairs in recent years. 88 MONASTERIES IN TIBET

The great Gelugpa monasteries of Drepung, Sera and Ganden, collectively known as the densa chenmo sum, once operated like self-contained worlds. Drepung alone, the largest of these monasteries, was home to around 10,000 monks at the time of the Chinese takeover in 1951. Like the other major Gelugpa institutions, Drepung oper- ated less as a single unit than as an assembly of colleges, each with its own interests, LHASA resources and administration. The colleges, known as tratsang or dratsang, were (and still are) in turn made up of residences, or kangtsang. A monk joining a monastic college was assigned to a kangt- AROUND LHASA sang according to the region in which he was born. For example, it is thought that 60% of monks at Drepung’s Loseling College were from Kham, while Gomang college was dominated by monks from Amdo and Mongolia. This gave the monastic colleges a distinctive regional fl avour and meant that loyalties were generally grounded much deeper in the colleges than in the monastery itself. At the head of a college was the (abbot), a position that was fi lled by con- tenders who had completed the highest degrees of monastic studies. The successful applicant was chosen by the Dalai Lama. Beneath the abbot was a group of religious leaders who supervised prayer meetings and festivals, and a group of economic managers who controlled the various kangtsang estates and funds. There was also a squad of huge monks known as dob-dobs, who were in charge of discipline and admin- istering punishments. In the case of the larger colleges, estates and funds were often extensive. Loseling College had over 180 estates and 20,000 serfs who worked the land and paid taxes to the monastery. Monasteries were involved in many forms of trade. For the most part, these holdings were not used to support monks – who were often forced to do private business to sustain themselves – but to maintain an endless cycle of prayer meetings and festivals that were deemed necessary for the spiritual good of the nation.

Chinese court to escort Princess Wencheng from the nunnery to the main road into back to Tibet. Lhasa. An alternative route from Tashi Chöling WALKS AROUND THE MONASTERY is to hike for 40 minutes northeast up the A few intrepid (and fi t) travellers use Pa- ravine to the cliff side hermitage of Dadren bonka as a base for walks further afi eld. Ritrö. You can see the hermitage from the The half-day kora around Pabonka, Tashi trail. From here, trekkers can follow trails Chöling hermitage and Chupsang Nun- across the ridge for an hour or two to Sera nery makes a nice addition to a visit to Monastery or Sera Ütse (see the box, p86 ). Sera Monastery. Midday can be hot here, so Gare (Samdeling) Nunnery is a tough bring enough water. four-hour trek from Tashi Chöling or Pa- For those who aren’t so fi t, an easier bonka (allow around two hours for the de- 20-minute walk from Pabonka leads up scent). This is a serious day trek and should to Tashi Chöling hermitage. There’s not not be attempted until you are well adjusted a lot left to see at the hermitage, but it of- to the altitude. The faint trail heads north- fers good views. Pilgrims drink holy spring west from Tashi Chöling and follows a steep water from the upper chapel before making ridge. The nunnery, home to more than 80 a kora of the hermitage. To get here from the nuns, is at an altitude of over 4200m. back of the Pabonka kora, follow the path diagonally up the hillside, following the 8 Getting There & Away electricity poles. To get to Pabonka, take minibus 502 or 503 to From Tashi Chöling, the trail drops into a the Sera Monastery turn-off on Nangre Beilu. ravine and follows this down for 30 minutes A paved road branches left before the military to Chupsang Nunnery. There are some 80 hospital and leads all the way to the monastery, nuns resident at Chupsang and it’s a very eventually branching right. You’ll soon see friendly place. It’s about 40 minutes’ walk Pabonka up ahead to the left, perched on its granite boulder. The ‘monastery’ to the right is actually Chupsang Nunnery. A ride from the junction in a rickshaw costs Y5 per person, or police station and military barracks were Y20/30 for a van/taxi. built at the monastery following the riots 89 of 2008. Interior photography fees are Y20 per Ganden Monastery chapel; video fees are an amazing Y1500. 甘丹寺 For details of the trek from Ganden to Sa- དགའ་ ན་ mye, see p237 . ELEV 4300M LHASA AROUND LHASA Just 50km northeast of Lhasa, Ganden NGAM CHÖ KHANG (Gāndān Sì; admission Y45; hdawn-dusk) was The fi rst chapel you reach from the parking the fi rst Gelugpa monastery and has been area is Ngam Chö Khang. It is built on the the main seat of this major Buddhist or- site of Tsongkhapa’s original dukhang, and 8 GANDEN MONASTERY der ever since. If you only have time for has a small shrine with images of Tsong- one monastery excursion outside Lhasa, khapa. On the left is a gönkhang that hous- Ganden would probably be the best choice. es four protective deities. The largest image 8 With its stupendous views of the surround- is of Dorje Jigje. ing Kyi-chu Valley and fascinating kora, Ganden is an experience unlike the other DEBATING COURTYARD major Gelugpa monasteries in the Lhasa Southeast of the Gomde Khang residence is area. the debating courtyard. You should be able The monastery was founded in 1409 by to hear the clapping of hands as you pass if Tsongkhapa, the revered reformer of the there is a debate in progress. Gelugpa order, after the fi rst Mönlam fes- tival was performed here. Images of Tsong- TOMB OF TSONGKHAPA khapa fl anked by his fi rst two disciples, The red fortress-like structure of Tsong- Kedrub Je and Gyatsab Je, are found khapa’s mausoleum, also known as the throughout the monastery. When Tsong- Serkhang, is probably the most impressive khapa died in 1411, the abbotship of the of the reconstructed buildings at Ganden. monastery passed to these disciples. The It’s above the prominent white chörten. post came to be known as the The main entrance leads to a new prayer and was earned through scholarly , hall with a small sand mandala and an not reincarnation. It is the Ganden Tripa, inner Sakyamuni chapel. The protector not, as one might expect, the Dalai Lama, chapel to the right is the domain of the who is the head of the Gelugpa order. three main Gelugpa protectors: Chögyel Ganden means ‘joyous’ in Tibetan and (far right), Dorje Jigje and Palden Lhamo. is the name of the Western Paradise (also Women are not allowed into this chapel. known as Tushita) that is home to Jampa, Exit this building, turn to the left and the Future Buddha. There is a certain irony take the stairs leading to the upper fl oors. in this because, of all the great monasteries The holiest shrine here is the Yangpachen of Tibet, Ganden suff ered most at the hands Khang (or Serdung) chapel, which houses of the Red Guards, possibly because of its Tsongkhapa’s funeral chörten. The chapel political infl uence. is named after the stone in the back left, Today it is the scene of extensive rebuild- covered in off erings of yak butter, which is ing, but this does not disguise the ruin that said to have fl own from India. Red Guards surrounds the new structures. In 1959 there destroyed both the original tomb and the were 2000 monks at Ganden; today there preserved body of Tsongkhapa inside it. are just 360. The destruction was caused The new silver-and-gold chörten was built by artillery fi re and bombing in 1959 and to house salvaged fragments of Tsong- 1966. New chapels and residences are being khapa’s skull. The images seated in front opened all the time, so even pilgrims are of the chörten are of Tsongkhapa fl anked sometimes unsure in which order to visit by his two principal disciples. The room the chapels. also holds several holy relics attributed to Ganden was temporarily closed to tour- Tsongkhapa. Pilgrims line up to buy vo- ists in 1996 after violent demonstrations tive inscriptions written in gold ink by the against the government’s banning of Dalai monks. Protective amulets and incense are Lama photos. There were further scuffl es in sold outside the chapel and one-mao notes 2006 when monks smashed a statue of the are stuff ed in the grill outside as off erings. controversial deity . A new e# 0200m Ganden Monastery 00.1miles 90 A B C D

1 12 1 15 17 14 LHASA 13 16

7 9 AROUND LHASA 6 11 #æ ‚ From 8 10 Low 2 2 18 Kora #Ú 5 19

23 20 3 4

25

21 2 22 24 3 3 26 1

To Low ‚Kora Police Station 4 #ñ #þ 4 Monastery Shop

& Guesthouse To Lhasa

(50km) #› ‚ Buses to Lhasa Monastery Guesthouse #ú

& Restaurant 5 ‚ ‚ 5 To Ruins To High Kora & (300m) Ganden–Samye Trek

A B C D

You can sometimes climb up to the roof (Ser Trikhang), which houses the throne of for good views. Tsongkhapa, where pilgrims get thumped on the head with the yellow hat of Tsong- CHAPEL OF JAMPA khapa and the shoes of the 13th Dalai Lama. This small chapel (Jampa Lhakhang), just There are two entrances on the north side across from the exit of the Tomb of Tsong- of the building. The west one gives access to khapa, holds two large images of the Future a 2nd-fl oor view of two Tsongkhapa statues, Buddha, plus the eight bodhisattvas. and the east one houses a library ( Lhakhang). ASSEMBLY HALL The recently renovated assembly hall has RESIDENCE OF THE GANDEN TRIPA statues of the 16 arhats and two huge stat- To the east of the Golden Throne Room and ues of Tsongkhapa. Stairs lead up to the slightly uphill, this residence (also known inner sanctum, the Golden Throne Room as Zimchung Tridok Khang) contains the arisen) and sumjung (with the power of Ganden Monastery speech) stone representation of Drölma. 91 æ Sights The other two main buildings are the 1 Ngam Chö Khang ...... C3 Jangtse Tratsang, an active college with 2 Debating Courtyard...... C3 an impressive main prayer hall, and the 3 Gomde Khang ...... C3 Shartse Tratsang, both large, recently 4 Nyare Kangtsang...... D2 reconstructed colleges. In the early after-

5 White Chörten...... C2 noon (1.30pm to 3pm) listen out for debat- LHASA AROUND LHASA 6 Tomb of Tsongkhapa ...... C2 ing in the enclosed courtyard south of the 7 Chapel of Jampa...... C2 Shartse Tratsang. Nearby is the interesting Barkhang printing press. 8 Assembly Hall ...... C2 8 GANDEN MONASTERY 9 Golden Throne Room...... C2 Below the main assembly hall, the ra- 10 Kitchen ...... D2 ther innocuous-looking Nyare Kangtsang 11 Residence of the Ganden houses a controversial statue of the deity

Tripa...... D2 Dorje Shugden. Worship of the deity has 8 12 Samlo Kangtsang ...... C1 been outlawed by the Dalai Lama (for its 13 Shartse Kangtsang...... D1 alleged dangerous Tantric practices) and 14 Lhowa Jikhang ...... C1 in 2006 monks stormed the building and 15 Lumbung Kangtsang...... C1 smashed the statue, leading to the arrest 16 Zingjung Kangtsang ...... C1 of two monks. The statue was replaced in 17 Serkong Kangtsang...... B1 2007 with the support of a Chinese govern- 18 Tsar Kangtsang ...... A2 ment, seemingly more than happy to fan 19 Dora Kangtsang...... A2 the fl ames of a sectarian split between local 20 Hamdong Kangtsang ...... A2 monks and the Dalai Lama. The standoff re- 21 Dehor Kangtsang...... A3 mains tense and on our last visit we found 30 Chinese soldiers barracked in the main 22 Barkhang (Printing Press)...... B3 chapel here. The statue is in the third cha- 23 Jangtse Tratsang...... B2 pel, in the far right corner, with a red face 24 Debating Courtyard...... B3 and third eye, wearing a bronze hat and rid- 25 Shartse Tratsang...... B3 ing a snow lion. 26 Debating Courtyard...... B3 GANDEN KORA The Ganden kora is a simply stunning walk living quarters and throne of the Ganden and should not be missed. There are su- Tripa. Other rooms include a protector cha- perb views over the braided Kyi-chu Valley pel, with statues of Demchok, Gonpo Gur along the way and there are usually large (Mahakala) and Dorje Naljorma (Vajray- numbers of pilgrims and monks off ering ogini); a Tsongkhapa chapel; and a room prayers, rubbing holy rocks and prostrating with the living quarters of the Dalai Lama themselves along the path. (note the photo of the 13th Dalai Lama). To There are actually two parts to the walk: the right is the ‘Nirvana Room’, which has the high kora and the low kora. The high a large shrine to Kurt Cobain (only kidding, kora climbs Angkor Ri south of Ganden and it’s Tsongkhapa again, who is said to have then drops down the ridge to join up with died in this room). The upper-fl oor library the lower kora. has a round platform used for creating sand To walk the , follow the path mandalas. high kora southeast of the car park, away from the monastery. After a while the track splits – OTHER BUILDINGS From here, the pilgrim trail winds through the left path leads to Hepu village on the various renovated kangtsangs (residences), Ganden–Samye trek; the right path zigzags which off er some good opportunities to up the ridge to a collection of prayer fl ags. meet the local monks away from the tour- Try to follow other pilgrims up. It’s a tough ist trail. 40-minute climb to the top of the ridge, so don’t try this one unless you’re well accli- Lumbung Kangtsang is also known as the Amdo Kangtsang. Tsongkhapa himself matised. Here, at two peaks, pilgrims burn was from Amdo (modern-day Qīnghǎi), juniper incense and give off erings of tsampa and many monks came from the province before heading west down the ridge in the to study here. Look for the rangjung (self- direction of the monastery, stopping at sev- eral other shrines en route. The low kora is an easier walk of around 8 Getting There & Away 92 45 minutes. From the car park the trail Ganden (Y25 return, 1¼ hours) is one of the few heads west up past the new police station sights in Ü that is connected to Lhasa by public and then around the back of the ridge be- transport. At least one bus leaves from in front hind the monastery. The trail winds past of the Barkhor Sq sometime between 6am and several isolated shrines and rocks that 7am, returning between 12.30pm and 1.30pm. are rubbed for their healing properties or A new paved road switchbacks the steep fi nal 12km to the monastery. LHASA squeezed through as a karmic test. At one point, pilgrims all peer at a rock through a Foreign tourists are currently required to visit clenched fi st in order to see visions. the monastery with a guide but you should be A (dürtro) is reached able to take the pilgrim bus as long as your guide AROUND LHASA sky-burial site shortly before the high point of the trail. comes with you. Some pilgrims undertake a ritual simulat- On the way back to Lhasa, the pilgrim bus nor- ed death and at this point, rolling mally stops at Sanga Monastery, set at the foot around on the ground. of the ruined Dagtse Dzong (or Dechen Dzong; dzong means ‘fort’). Towards the end of the kora, on the east- ern side of the ridge, is A 4WD for a day trip to Ganden costs around Tsongkhapa’s her- Y400; a taxi might be cheaper. mitage, a small building with relief images of Atisha, Sakyamuni, Tsepame and Palden Lhamo. These images are believed to have the power of speech. Above the hermitage is Drak Yerpa  ག་ཡར་པ་ 叶巴寺 a coloured rock painting that is reached by ELEV 4885M a narrow, precipitous path. From the her- For those with an interest in Tibetan mitage, the kora drops down to rejoin the Buddhism, Drak Yerpa (Yèbā Sì; admission monastery. Y20) hermitage, about 16km northeast of Lhasa, is one of the holiest cave retreats 4 Sleeping & Eating in Ü. Among the many ascetics who have The simple Monastery Guesthouse (dm/d sojourned here are Guru Rinpoche and Y20/200) is occasionally used by trekkers Atisha (Jowo-je), the Bengali Buddhist who headed to Samye. The better quality double spent 12 years proselytising in Tibet. King rooms are above the well-stocked mon- Songtsen Gampo also meditated in a cave, astery shop just down from the car park. after his Tibetan wife established the fi rst The monastery restaurant has low-grade of Yerpa’s chapels. The peaceful site off ers thugpa (Tibetan noodles) and some fried lovely views and is a great day trip from dishes. Lhasa.

VISITING MONASTERIES & TEMPLES

Most monasteries and temples extend a warm welcome to foreign guests and in remote areas will often off er a place to stay for the night. Maintain this good faith by observing the following courtesies: » Always circumambulate Buddhist monasteries and other religious objects clock- wise, thus keeping shrines and chörtens (stupas) to your right. » Don’t take prayer flags or mani (prayer) stones. » Refrain from taking photos during a prayer meeting. At other times always ask permission to take photos, especially when using a flash. The larger monasteries charge photography fees, though some monks will allow you to take a quick picture for free. If they won’t, there’s no point getting angry; you don’t know what pressures they may be under. » Don’t wear shorts or short skirts in a monastery. » Take your hat off when you go into a chapel (though there’s generally no need to remove your shoes). » Don’t smoke in a monastery. » Be aware that women are generally not allowed in gönkhang (protector chapels); always ask before entering. At one time the hill at the base of the have taught. Further east is the holy moun- cave-dotted cliff s was home to Yerpa tain of Yerpa Lhari, topped by prayer fl ags 93 Drubde Monastery, the summer residence and encircled by a kora. of Lhasa’s Gyutö College at the Ramoche There are several caves and retreats Temple. The monastery was destroyed in higher up the cliff -face and some fi ne hik- 1959. Monks have begun to return to Yerpa ing possibilities in the hills if you have time. but numbers are strictly controlled by the A guesthouse is currently under construc-

government, which carries out regular pa- tion and simple food is available. LHASA AROUND LHASA triotic study sessions. 8 Getting There & Away THE CAVES A daily pilgrim bus leaves from Barkhor Sq at From the car park, take the left branch of around 7.30am for the caves, returning around 8 DRÖLMA LHAKHANG the stairway to visit the caves in clockwise 1pm. Bus drivers often call the site ‘Drayab’. fashion. The fi rst caves are the Rigsum The paved road crosses the prayer-fl ag-draped and the , 3980m Ngachen-la before turning into the side

Gompo Cave Temjl Drubpuk 8 the cave where Atisha (shown in a red hat) valley at Yerpa village and passing two ruined meditated. Look for the stone footprints of dzongs and a large disused dam en route to the caves. The bus does a fi nal circuit of a large Yeshe Tsogyel in the former and the fi fth ruined chörten before screeching to a halt in a Dalai Lama in the latter. At one nearby cave great cloud of dust. pilgrims squeeze through a hole in the rock wall; at another they take a sip of holy water. The yellow Jamkhang has an impressive Drölma Lhakhang two-storey statue of Jampa fl anked by Cha- na Dorje (Vajrapani) to the left and Namse  ལ་མ་ ་ཁང་ 卓玛拉康 (Vairocana) and Tamdrin (Hayagriva) to the This signifi cant although small monastery right. Other statues are of Atisha (Jowo-je) (Zhuómǎlākāng; admission Y30; hdawn-dusk) is fl anked by the fi fth Dalai Lama and Tsong- jam-packed with ancient relics and hidden khapa. The upper cave is the Drubthub- treasures. It’s only 30 minutes drive south- puk, recognisable by its black yak-hair west of Lhasa and is worth a stop for those curtain. Continuing east along the ridge a interested in . detour leads up to a chörten that off ers fi ne As you take the Lhasa–Tsetang road out views of the valley. of Lhasa, you’ll pass a blue rock carving Climb to the Chögyal-puk, the Cave of Sakyamuni Buddha at the base of a cliff of Songtsen Gampo. The interior chapel about 11km southwest of town (it’s easily has a central thousand-armed Chenresig missed coming from the south). Nyetang (Avalokiteshvara) statue known as Chak- village and the monastery are about 6km tong Chentong. Pilgrims circle the central further on, between kilometre markers rock pillar continually. A small cave and 4662 and 4663 (see the box, p149 ). statue of Songtsen Gampo are in the right- Drölma Lhakhang is associated with hand corner. the Bengali scholar Atisha (982–1054). Ati- The next chapel surrounds the Lhalung- sha came to Tibet at the age of 53 at the puk, the cave where the monk Lhalung invitation of the king of the Guge kingdom Pelde meditated after assassinating the in western Tibet and his teachings were anti-Buddhist king Langdharma in 842. A instrumental in the so-called second diff u- statue of the monk wearing his black hat sion of Buddhism in the 11th century. Dröl- occupies the back room. ma Lhakhang was established at this time The most atmospheric chapel is the by one of Atisha’s foremost disciples, Dröm- Dawa-puk (Moon Cave), where Guru tonpa, who also founded the Kadampa or- Rinpoche (the main statue) is said to have der, to which the monastery belongs. It was meditated for seven years. Look for the here at Netang that Atisha died aged 72. painting of Ekajati (Tsechigma) and other The 11th-century monastery was spared rock carvings in the left corner of the an- desecration by the Red Guards during the teroom and the stone footprint of Guru Cultural Revolution after a direct request Rinpoche in the inner room, to the right. from Bangladesh (which now encompasses Below the main caves and to the east is Atisha’s homeland). Apparently, Chinese the Neten Lhakhang, where the practice of premier Zhou Enlai intervened on its behalf. worshipping the 16 arhats was fi rst intro- The fi rst chapel to the left is a gönkhang, duced. Below here is where Atisha is said to decorated with severed stags’ heads and arrow holders. As you enter and exit the Sì; admission free), set in a large natural bowl 94 main monastery building look for the two about 65km south of Lhasa and home to ancient guardian deities, which may even over 280 nuns. The region is a favourite of date back to the 11th-century founding of bird-watchers. the monastery. An inner kora surrounds the From the end of the drivable road it’s a main chapels. steep 45-minute hike up to the village-like From the entry, pass into the fi rst chapel, nunnery. The central hall contains a three-

LHASA the Namgyel Lhakhang, which contains dimensional mandala of Drölma and statues a number of chörtens. The black-metal of Guru Rinpoche, Dorje Semba (Vajrasat- Kadampa-style chörten to the right reput- tva), White Tara and several old lamas. edly holds the staff of Atisha and the skull of Both and Dzogchen schools are AROUND LHASA , Atisha’s teacher. Statuary includes represented here. Stairs to the right lead Atisha and the eight medicine buddhas. upstairs to a chapel with a statue of Machik The eponymous middle Drölma Lha- Labdronma (holding a double drum), the fa- khang houses a number of relics associated mous 11th-century adept who opened up the with Atisha. The statues at the top include valley. There is also a B&W photo of one of an 11th-century statue of Jowo Sakyamuni her reincarnations. and statues of the 13th Dalai Lama (left), You can hike up the hill, following the Green Tara, and Serlingpa (right, with a electric poles, for about 45 minutes to the red hat), another teacher of Atisha. The Gangri Tokar shrine (Drubkhang), where lower central statue behind the grill is an , an important 14th-century image of Jampa that was reputedly saved Dzogchen lama, once meditated. The chapel from Mongol destruction when it shouted has a cave shrine and a sacred tree stump in ‘Ouch!’. There are also 21 statues of Drölma, front of a rock image of the Dzogchen deity after whom the monastery and the chapel Rahulla. are named. From here fi t and acclimatised hikers The fi nal Tsepame Lhakhang has ori- can climb for a couple of hours up past ginal statues of Tsepame, cast with the meditation caves (marked by prayer fl ags) ashes of Atisha, fl anked by Marmedze (Di- to the ridgeline behind. The views of the pamkara), the Past Buddha, Jampa (the Kyi-chu Valley are fantastic from here and Future Buddha) and the eight bodhisattvas. if the weather is clear you’ll get views of The small central statue of Atisha in a glass snowcapped 7191m Nojin Kangtsang and case is backed by his original clay throne. As other Himalayan peaks to the south. From you leave the chapel, look out for two sunken the ridgeline you can continue northwest white chörtens, which hold Atisha’s robes. across a boulder fi eld for 15 minutes to Upstairs is the throne room and living a small hill (5160m) topped by a chörten room of the Dalai Lamas, and to the right that off ers epic views northwards as far as a library. Lhasa. Alternatively you can continue east along the ridge to summit the bowl’s main 8 Getting There & Away peak. Any bus heading to/from destinations south of If regulations change it might again be Lhasa (eg to Shigatse, Samye Monastery, Tse- possible to overnight at the nunnery guest- tang) will take you past the entrance to Drölma house. The small teahouse below the main Lhakhang, if you can get on it. Otherwise the complex off ers simple meals. temple is easily visited on a 4WD trip to or from Lhasa. 8 Getting There & Away Access to the site will change once the new east- bank airport road is fi nished in 2011. Until then Shugsheb Nunnery a nunnery bus leaves at 7am from Lhasa’s Bark- 雄色尼姑寺 hor Sq on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday,  ག་ག བ་ཨ་ ་ད ན་པ་ returning to Lhasa around 5pm. The bus passes ELEV 4410M Trekkers and anyone who likes to get well the picturesque cliff side Samanga Monastery en route and stops briefl y at the small Öshang off the beaten track will enjoy this excur- Lhakhang on the way back. sion to Tibet’s largest nunnery (Xióngsè Nígū ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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