Richard P. Stebbins, Ph.D
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
This text was translated and graciously contributed to the Sophie Library by Richard P. Stebbins, Ph.D. This text is copyrighted material, and is used by written permission of the author. Fair usage laws apply. © 2005 i BRUN95(2)FM ROMAN DIARY (Tagebuch fiber Rom) by FRIEDERIKE BRUN with Engravings (mit Knpfern) Second Part (Volume TwoJ Zurich OrelI, FOssli und Compagnie 1801 ii TABLE OF CONTENTS The original Table of Contents for Volume II of the German edition is printed on pp. 427- 436 at the end of that volume, but an edited version is placed at the beginning of this translated volume for greater convenience of reference. AJ:, in Volume I, page references to the German edition are given at the end of each chapter entry in the Table of Contents, followed by the corresponding page numbers of the English translation. In the body of the translated text, an English page number appears at the top of each page, while the corresponding German page numbers are shown in square brackets at the appropriate points within the text. I. Rome, March 28, 1796. Cold, snow, on blossoming trees. Angelica Kaufinann's childhood. Villa Lanti. St. Paul's Church. Casino Corsini, April 3. Feast of the Annunciation, and feast on the Palatine Hill, April 4. Gallery of the Palazzo Doria, April 7. Visit to the M.P. CI. (Museo Pio-Clementino), April 8. Spring of the Villa Pamphili, Aprill3. German, pp. 334; English, pp. 1-9. II. Trip to Frascati, Aprill3. Our dwelling; its view and neighborhood. Tusculurn; view from the mountain, April 15. Trip to Grotta Ferrata, April 16. Villa Mondragone; Monte Porcio, view, April 17. Villa Falconieri, April 18. Visit of the Roman mends, April 19. Birthday, April21. Camaldolensian Monastery, April 21. Trip to Lake Albano. Wood of Marino. View. Castel Gandolfo. Its situation and neighborhood. The Grottos of the Nymphs. The Emissary of the Alban Lake. Albano, April 22. Villa Aldovrandini. The monntain heights of Tusculum. Debris and ruins, April 24. Return to Rome, April 27. German, pp. 37-72; English, pp. 10-19. ill. May 2: Conversational matter in Rome. Palazzo Colonna. Paintings, statue. May 3: Sacristy of St. Peter's Church. May 4 (1): Corso to [Santa] Croce di Gerusalemme.. May 5-6: Approach of the separation from Rome. Snnset from the Maltese Priory. May 7: Trip to Grotta- Ferrata. Separation! May 8: Departure from Rome for Albano. The lake ofNemi. May 9: Ride to Pallazzuola. Nature. Situation of the Cloister. View. The way to Monte Cavo. Via Consularis. Ruins of the Temple of Jupiter. The beech tree. Villetri. Egyptian antiquities. May 10: Trip through the Pontine Marshes. Terracina. German, pp. 73-96; English, pp. 20-26. IV. May II: Trip from Fondi to Naples. Fondi, Mola di Gaeta, sea voyage. The Formian hills. Evening at sea. May 12: Departure. Capua. Nearing Naples. Naples. Dust. Noise. iii Strada di Toledo. The Mole. Chiaio. The sea. Vesuvius. Evening scene on the Bay of Naples. May 13: Morning. The Grotto ofPosillipo. The Vale ofPosillipo. View ofNisida and Pozzuoli. Trip to Portici. May 14: Virgil's Tomb and scenes nearby. May 15: My society in Naples. May 16: Trip via Portici Resina to Torre del Greco. Lava scenes there. Villa Mazzarine in Resina. The Favorite. The seashore below Portici. Trip home. Festival bustle of the Madonna del Largo. May 17: Sea voyage to Punto di Posillipo. Gaiolo. Clear sea. School of Virgil. Nisida. View. May 19: Trip onto the Vomero. Villa Patricio Heavenly situation. View. Gennan, pp. 97-138; English, pp. 27-38. v. Naples (continuation). May 20: Thompson. Caroline Filangieri. FuJI moon over the Bay. May 21: Enjoyment of nature in Naples. Amphibious life. My existence in Naples. Friendliness of the people. Cleanliness of the streets. Belvedere. The view downward. Sunset. May 22: Anxieties. Trip to Punto di PosilJjpo. Cave of the Tritons. Wilhelm Tischbein; his Helena; his Goethe; his art cabinet. May 23: Sea voyage on the Bay. The boat full of young fisher fellows. Evening at the palace of Queen Jobanna. May 24: Cabinet of Sir [William] Hamilton. His residence. View from the air-cabinet. May 25: Visit to the brothers Philip and George Hackert. Chamcter of the Hackert paintings. Evening scenes in the Vale ofPosillipo. Mergellina. May 26: Corpus Christi festival. Procession. Populace. Beau monde. Parallels. The King. Facial formations. Strange weather. Kniep; completeness of his works. Ride on the spine ofPosillipo. Disappointment. May 27: Thompson's cabinet. Trip to the Lake of Agnano. Sulfur baths. Dogs' grotto. Pisciarelli. May 28: Trip to Pozzuoli. Temple ofSempis. Bad air; its resuJts. Sea voyage to Misenum. Cave ofTmconaria. Sea voyage. Tavern. People of Pozzuoli. Trip to the Solfatara; view from thence. Descent. Amphitheater. View from the CathedralofPozzuoli. German, pp. 139- 186; English, pp. 39-52. VL May 30: Trip from Naples to Vietri and La Cava, and sojourn there. Dust, heat. Lava streams. Antique; old, new. Past Pompeii. ViewofStabio. ValleyofScaffaca. Noondayrest of the travel society. The good woman. The fine eyes. Nocera. Beauty ofthe locality. La Cava. Don Giovene. The way to Vietri; the tavern; embarrassment; help. May 31: Nature of the Valley of La Cava. Customs and education of the inhabitants. June 2: Corpus Christi festival of La Cava. A ride on the Ajutore hill; night testival of St. Ajntore of La Cava. June 39: Quiet stay in La Cava. June 10: Valle Molare. June II: Don Carluzzi. Grotta di Ponega. June 12: Long ride through Grotta di Ponegra, over the hill ofTraonea and down to Vietri. June 13: Sea voyage on the Bay of Salerno, Vietri, Liberatore. Moonlight over La Cava. June 14: Trip to the Abbacy of La Cava. Situation of the choister. German, pp. 187-258; English, pp. 5373. iv VII. Continuation of the stay in La Cava. June 15: trip via Vietri and Salerno to Torreone. June 17: Ride on the Liberatore mountain. June 19-20: Friendly visit. Evening scene on the Gulf of Salerno. June 21-23: Culture; industry; popular customs of Cava. June 26: Vineyard of Don Giovene. June 29: Departure from La Cava. Return journey. Arrival in Naples. Festival evening of Sts. Peter and Parn. Modern weight of Gallic swords. German, pp. 259-290; English, pp. 74-82. Vill. Naples in the first half of July 1796. Art works in Naples. Studios. The Maimon skeleton. Muse Umnia, Hercules Farnese. Collection of Mr. Rainer, Secretary of the Queen. Theseus and Pluto, busts. Paintings ofDomenichino and Titian. Campanian vassels. View. Porcelain manufactury. Venus, Agrippina, and the captive kings. Statues: Indian Bacchus, Euripides. Marcns Brutus, Homer, etc., busts. San Carlo Theater. The Todi. ~ The museumof Portici. Room of the ceramic vessels. Lectisternium, sacrificial table, watering pot, basin, tripod, etc. Room(s) oflamps, of the libmry, of weights, of busts, of candelabra. Kitchen of Pompeii. Room of foods. Room of Mercury; of the Sleeping Faun. Room of the masks and of Isis. Orestes and Iphigenia, a sketch. Helena. The Nolensian Vase. - Portici. Antique fresco paintings from Herculaneum and Pompeii. Model of the ancient theater of Pompeii. ~ Capo di Monte. Paintings by da Vinci, del Sarto, the Carmcci, Titian, Raphael. Sketch of the Last Judgment of Michael Angelo. Campanian vessels, gems, intaglios, coins, closed. View from Capo di Monte. - Scene of the Chiaio in Naples. Character of the social tone there. Filangieri; the fate of his mends. July 12: Excursion in the city. The Mole. Popular paintings. The fish market. Concert at Lady Hamilton's. German, pp. 291-334; English, pp. 83-97. IX. The Hermitage on Vesuvins. Jrny 14, 1796: Flight from Naples. Route viaPortici; situation; the way farther upward; contrast of Vesuvius and Somma. A look backward on the sea, Naples, and the islands. View of the seven new cmters of Atrio del Cavallo. The hermitage. Sunset over Campania Fe lice. The sea, the coasts and islands. July 15: Stormy morning; volcanic valley of Vetrano. Vegetation. View. The hermit, Father Domenico from Genoa. Afternoon: ride to Atrio del Cavallo. Burial place of the hermits. Evening observance. Jrny 16: Morning scene. Ride to the Bocce nuove. View from the edge of the cmter. Return to Naples. German, pp. 335-358; English, pp. 98-104. x. Extract from the diary of my sojourn on the island of Ischia. July 18, 1796: Departure from Naples. The Castell del Uovo. Scene of the Bay. PosiJIipo. Nisida. Clear sea. Bridge of Caligula. Cape Misenum. View of Capri. Cape Martino. Bay of Gaeta. Vivam. Procyta v [procida]. Ischia. Lava surf The Castello. Borgo d'Ischia. Landing between Castiglione and Lacce. View from my accommodations. July 23: Pictures of Ischia. My life on the island. July 25: Continuation; complete solitude. Ride to Casamiccia; popular festival there. Return via Lacce. July 26: Villa of Prince Aqua-Vita; dryness; morning hours on Ischia. July 27: Sea voyage to Furia d'Ischia. View ofthe eastern part of the island; volcanic ruins. Jrny 28: The fleet. - August 5-6: Unusual drought. Tide on the Epomeo; view downward on the island; evening scene. August 7: Raindrops. August 8: Rain. Tasso. Morning; day; evening. August 10: Continuing the description of the island. August 11: Sea voyage to Borgo d'Ischia; description of the Lago del Re coast. The lava stream. Splendid sea views. Borgo d'Ischia. View from the platform of the Castell. Return home in the twilight. Observations. August 16: Temperament of the Ischians. August 17: Apearances of aerial and linear perspective. August 19: Seclusion. Trip to Furia d'Ischia; the village; the chapel. The ride back; cultivation ofthe land. August 20: Uncertainty. August 21: Thundery atmosphere; unusual light reflections; a little pilgrimage. August 22: Dolce far niente.