1 CULTURAL HEARTLAND REGION • the Cultural

CULTURAL HEARTLAND REGION

• The Cultural Heartland is often referred to as “Lanatus” country because the Encephalartos lanatus, a species of cycads (some are more than 4 000 years old), is endemic to the catchments area of the Olifants River, where it grows wild. • More than half of South Africa’s coal supply is mined in this region and the area is the major power generating centre for almost all South Africa’s needs. o The coal-burning power stations are reputedly the largest of their kind in the world. o Recently, wet coal due to excessive raining, has caused a shortage of fuel at Eskom’s power stations and consequently, reduced electricity generation. Furthermore, an Eskom spokesperson, Andrew Etzinger, said that due to the amount of coal being consumed to run the stations at full capacity for the current high energy demand, the coal reserves will be depleted much sooner than anticipated. • Sekhukhune, the cross-border municipality between Limpopo and Mpumalanga, was incorporated into the Limpopo Province in 2005. Thus, towns that have previously been included in the Cultural Heartland, such as Groblersdal, Marble Hall, Ohrigstad and Roossenekal, now falls within Limpopo. • The Boer War also left its mark on this region.

The main route through this region is the N4. The N17 meets the N4 at Witbank.

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LOOPSPRUIT Population: Altitude: 1 140m/3 740ft Cultural Heartland Rainfall: Region On route R568 approximately 32 km north of Bronkhorstspruit towards Ekandustria/KwaMhlanga.

Origin • The Loopspruit vineyard and cellars: o Is the most eastern wine estate in South Africa, located on the banks of the Loopspruit River o It produces wines as well as the potent, but traditionally South African “witblits” (raw spirit/moonshine) and “mampoer” (home-made brandy).

Attractions and activities • Kgodwana (Loopspruit) Traditional Village: o An Ndebele Traditional Village and Museum. o The decorative house murals, beadwork and woodcarvings of the Ndebele people, all have a different story to tell. o The patterns and colours of the houses also have different significances. o The museum has a small, but significant collection of Ndebele beadwork and artifacts.

KWAMHLANGA Population: Altitude: 1 357m/4 452ft Cultural Heartland Rainfall: Region On route R568, approximately 60km north of Bronkhorstspruit. On route R573, approximately 50 km north east of Tshwane/Pretoria.

Origin • Originally built as the administrative centre for the Ndebele local government, • Referred as the spiritual centre of the Ndebele tribe who settled here during the early 1700s. • The traditional Ndebele houses in the village, are painted in bright colours and decorated with geometrical designs and patterns. • The patterns and colours all have symbolic meanings and are also reflected in the tradional clothing.. • Ndebele’s artwork has gained international recognition and various traditional villages all over the province allow visitors a glimpse into their lives.

Attractions and Activities • Ndzundza Mabhoko Royal Kraal - The leader of the Ndebele tribe is a descendant of the famous nineteenth-century Chief Mapoch (Mabhogo). - The royal kraal may be visited by appointment only and visitors are requested to observe certain cultural procedures.

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WITBANK Population: Altitude: 1 616m/5302ft Cultural Heartland Rainfall: Region On route N4 approximately 100km east of Pretoria and 108km west of Nelspruit. On route N12 approximately 120km east of Johannesburg to Nelspruit.

Origin • The village was established in 1903, on the farm Swartbos. • Coal mining history - The presence of the large deposits of coal was suspected as early as the 1880s, when travelers and transport riders used to pick up coal on the ground or streams. - Later, farmers from the district came with their wagons and collected coal, free of charge. - The first attempts to mine this wealth of coal failed due to inadequate transport facilities. - After the completion of the railway from Pretoria to Lourenco Marques, things began to change. - In 1896, the first shaft was sunk by Samuel Stanfield, who had bought the farm Swartbos (“black bush”) for that purpose. - The town’s motto explain the growth and prosperity of the city quite well: “Through coal and industry we flourish”

Name • “Witbank”/“white ridge” is derived from an outcrop of light sandstone near the railway station where transport riders used to camp in the old days. • Today, it is known as eMalahleni.

Claims to fame • The “coal capital” of Africa • Winston Churchill

Agriculture • Mixed farming: cattle, dairy, sheep, maize, potatoes and sweet potatoes.

Mining and industries

- There are 22 Colliers in an area of 50km by 40km. Coal - Accounts for about half of South Africa’s total coal production. mining - The coal occurs in seams of 3m to 6m, no more than 300m below the surface and is therefore easily mined by mechanical means.

- Iron ore, Chromium, Manganese, Mica, and Cobalt. Fire-clay, including Other high-grade kaolin, used for production of a wide range of products, such as minerals refractory bricks and crockery.

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WITBANK Cultural Heartland continue… Region

Various - Most important is the Highveld Steel and Vanadium Corporation to the Coal west of the town. Related - Steel is produced by a specially developed electric smelting process of Industries which vanadium slag is a by-product.

Historical Sites and monuments

Anglo - Located at Balmoral, next to the N4 from Pretoria, about 25 km west of Boer Witbank. War Graveyard - Original - Located in the CBD of Witbank. Tin - Recently restored and houses an Attorney’s office, Funeral undertakers and Houses others.

Historical - Built with sandstone. Dutch - The original steel frame ceilings and stained glass windows are still intact. Reformed - A national monument. Church

Clewer - Located to the west of the CBD area. old - It was operated by the Nederlandsche Zuid-Afrikaansche Spoorweg Station Maatschappij (NZASM). - On 12 December, Winston Churchill escaped from the Staats Model School. - He hid in a coal train that was on its way to Lourenzo Marques (Maputo) in Mozambique. - There was a price of £27 on his head and the Boers were looking everywhere for him. - The following evening, the train stopped at the Clewer siding, near Witbank. Winston - In his desperate search for food, he knocked on a door. Churchill’s - Fortunately, it was the house of John Howard, an Englishman and escape manager of the Transvaal and Delagoa Bay Colliery. - After a good meal, he was hidden in the underground stables of the mine and later behind some packing cases in the office. - After six days, he got on a railway truck that was loaded with wool and on its way to Lourenzo Marques. - The train finally reached its destination on 21 December. - The British consul in Lourenco Marques initially doubted Churchill's identity, but eventually, after two days, a cable reached Howard at Witbank which read: “Goods arrived safely”.

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WITBANK Attractions and activities Cultural Heartland continue… Region

Attractions and activities

Sampioen- - An extraordinary “mushroom” rock formation. Rots - Located at Bakoondkrans just north of Witbank. (“Mushroom Rock”

Eskom - Located about 20 km from Witbank. Cultural - Provides several supervisory courses and cross-cultural education. Village - Traditional huts representing the different cultures of South Africa have and been erected on the site and are also used as accommodation facilities. Learning Centre

- Located in the CBD area. Witbank - It has become the main art and culture centre of the region. Civic - It is a modern, fully-equipped theatre which seats 502 people. Theatre - Hosts regular shows representative of all the disciplines of the performing arts.

- Located on the Olifants River east of town. o Doringpoort (“thorny defile”) / new Doringpoort Two o Witbank Dam and Pleasure Resort is one of the largest municipal Dams dams in South Africa. • Offers self service chalets camping, swimming pool, fishing, picnicking and boating facilities.

Witbank - Offers monthly steam train rides on a private line as a pleasant alternative Steam to exploring the region. Railway

Apple - An annual event, when athletes compete with the Apple Steam Train Locomotive, between Witbank and Middelburg. Marathon

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OGIES Population: Altitude: 1 603m/5 259ft Cultural Heartland Rainfall: Region On route N12, approximately 30km south from Witbank and also accessible from routes R545 /R555.

Origin • Developed around the railway station which forms the rail link between Springs and Witbank. • Established in 1928 on the farm “Ogiesfontein” (Fountain with many eyes) • Currently serves as a local trading centre for the Coal Mine and Power Station employees.

Name • Named after the fountain on the farm.

Mining and industries

• Ogies coal mine • Ogies Power Station

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MIDDELBURG Population: Altitude: 1 481m/4 859ft Cultural Heartland Rainfall: Region On route N4 approximately 22km east from Witbank and 87km west from Machadodorp and on route N11 on the banks of the Little Olifants (“little elephant”).

Origin • The site chosen for the establishment of a town, was on the farms Klipfontein (“rocky spring”) and Keerom (“about-turn”). • The area was part of the territory of the short-lived republic of Lydenburg during 1859, which broke away from the Transvaal in 1856, and rejoined in 1860. • Soon the local community did not like the site of the new village. • In 1864, Reverend Frans Lion Cachet, who also contributed to the founding of Amersfoort near Volksrust, moved the site to the adjoining farm, Sterkfontein ('strong spring'). • In 1866, a town was eventually laid out and was called Nazareth. • Following the fall of Pretoria in June 1900, Nazareth (Middelburg) served for a short while as the seat of the fugitive Transvaal government during the Anglo-Boer War. • During 1899 to 1902, the first negotiations for ending the Anglo-Boer War were held there. • During the 1970s, a railway line was finally built from Broodsnyersplaas ('breadcutter's farm'), about 35 km south of Middelburg, to join up with the line through Ermelo and Piet Retief to Richards Bay. - This line now carries some of the longest and heaviest coal trains in the world, transporting coal and anthracite for export to Richards.. • Currently, Middelburg served as a major commercial, communications and industrial centre.

Name • Initially named Nazareth in 1866. • According to one tradition, President T.F. Burgers decided on the change because the name Nazareth reminded him of leprosy! • In 1874, the government renames it to Middelburg as it was halfway (“in-the- middle”) between Lydenburg and Pretoria.

Claims to fame • Known as the ”Stainless Steel Capital of Africa”.

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MIDDELBURG Agriculture Cultural Heartland Continue.. Region

Agriculture The vegetation of the northern part of the region is on the southern edge of the Transvaal Bushveld: - Cattle ranching - Tobacco, wheat and vegetables are cultivated on a modest scale.

The southern part of the district is typical Highveld country: • Maize, wool and potatoes. • Khanhym Farm: Mix farming - Main supplier of pork for all meat industries all over the country - Cattle ranching - Mealies/maize, wheat and vegetables.

Mining and industries

Boasts seven coalmines in this region, including: o Middelburg Mine (bhpbilliton mining company) Mining o Bank Mine – located at Broodsnyersplaas. o Optimum Mine – located at Pullenshope on the N11 from Middelburg to Hendrina - It is a relatively recent addition to the many industrial plants in the Industries Middelburg area. It exports more than 80% of the stainless steel it produces to more than 30 Columbus - Stainless countries. Steel Plant - Together with other Mittel Steel plants, this makes South Africa one of the major producers of stainless steel in the world - Boasts three major power stations in the area. o Arnot –located between Middelburg and Belfast on the R104. Duvha –located between Witbank and Middelburg on route R544 and Energy o the N4 from Johannesburg. o Hendrina Power – located at Pullenshope between Middelburg and Hendrina on the N11.

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MIDDELBURG Historical sites and monuments Cultural Heartland Continue.. Region

Historical sites and monuments

Archeo- KwaSimkhulu Ethno-Archeological terrain: logy - Recently discovered, situated in close proximity of the N4 between And Middelburg and Belfast. Paleonto- - Located in the crater of an extinct volcano. logy - It relates to the culture and history of the Ndzundza/Ndebele people

Middelburg Historical Route includes the following sites (Loskop Leisure Route): - Built by the British to get to their garrison. English There are two in Middelburg: Bridges - o One with two arches as you enter the Middelburg Country Club o The other, with only one arch.

- Dates from 1896 and is one of several fine stone bridges built by the Transvaal Republic. - It used to be the only crossing over the little Olifants River. Meyer’s Cattle auctions normally took place here. Bridge - - From the bridge the road split in two, one towards Groblersdal and one towards Belfast. - A national monument.

- A distinctive drift runs through the park on the corner of Luttig and Vos streets. Drift - It used to be the path that the woman walked from the station to the concentration camp.

- Located on the R555 (Stoffberg road), about 1km outside town on the Old left-hand side of the road. Canon A beacon is situated on top of an old blockhouse that has been filled with Block - house rocks. - Legend has it, that a canon mounted inside, is “watching” over the town.

Block - Still in fairly good condition. House

- There are two at different locations National Erected to commemorate those who fought and died in the Anglo Boer Monuments - War.

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MIDDELBURG Historical sites and monuments Cultural Heartland Continue.. Region Historical route continue.. - This used to be a light tower looking over the camps. The “Eye” - The nickname, “The Big Eye”, was given by children playing there.

- A true landmark of Middelburg due to its size and architectural design. White - British soldiers used it during the 2nd Anglo Boer War and this explains Church why it was not damaged like so many other churches during the war. - Proclaimed as a historical landmark.

- An initiative of the women who decided to erect a church after the war, in memory of the women and children who were held in the concentration Old camps. Church - In the earlier days, this building was used as a hospital. - The Technical High School maintains it now and uses it for services

- The concentration camp was moved to this location. Concen - 922 children died in the Middelburg area during 1899-1901. tration - In the Boer women's diaries, black concentration camps are mentioned. Camp - The pile of rocks lying north of the graves, is a black cemetery and is Cemetery known to be the only black graveyard in South Africa, which is within walking distance from a white one.

Old - Contains the graves of Henry Slegtkamp and Jack Hindon who played Cemetery key roll players during the Boer war.

- Many graves of children, women and old men who died during the war are located in the old part of the cemetery. New There was a concentration camp right next to the cemetery. Cemetery - - A monument nearby, lists the amount of people who died in various concentration camps nationwide. - Running along Robertson Street.

The canal used to get water from the Rietfontein to Kruger Dam, which Canal - was sufficient to supply the town with water until 1967.

- Located on the corner of McDonald and Hospital Street. Tree Lane - Trees, over a 100 years old, have been planted in a fairly straight line. Park - This used to be the lane leading to the English Garrison. - There is still uncertainty about the purpose of the two structures nearby.

Old - In 1884, Paul Kruger and Portugal, entered into an agreement to develop a Middelburg railway line between Pretoria and Delagoa Bay.. Railway - The Station was already in use by 1890, but was finally completed in Station 1894.

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MIDDELBURG Attractions and Activities Cultural Heartland Continue.. Region

Attractions and activities

Mhluzi - Offers a visit to a squatter camp shack, a shebeen (township pub), Township traditional healer (sangoma) and a private home in the Mhluzi Township. Tours

Micro- - Offers tours through the premises and trips with prior appointment. Lighting Training School

- Hosts the Little Elephant/Ndlovu Encane, which is an art and crafts Midway market. Inn Hotel

De Oude - Offers a wide variety of art and local crafts. Werf Craft Market

- Offers various hiking Trails: o Cycad Bobbejaan Hiking Trail (nine-days) Hiking The Cycad Trail Trails o o Cycad Suikerbos Trail o Cycad Tarentaal Trail

Kruger - Located at the entrance of the R35 inside town. Dam - Offers recreational facilities. Resort - Currently part of exclusive housing development.

- Located on the farm Rondebosch, on the Little Elephants River. Middelburg - It is bout 3 km outside town, between the N4 to Nelspruit and the R104 to Dam Arnot and Belfast. - The main entrance to the dam is situated on the R104. - Offers overnight camping facilities, fishing and boating activities.

Pienaars - Located next to the N4 to Nelspruit on the R35 to Bethal. Dam - Offers chalets, camping and caravan sites, game viewing, fishing and Resort other watersport.

Middelburg - Offers marked hiking trails, game viewing. Nature Reserve

- Located about 93km north of Middelburg on the N11 to Groblersdal bordering Loskop Dam. - Used to be part of Mpumalanga Municipality but is recently re-integrated as part of the Limpopo region. Loskop - It is home to various species of birds, antelopes, ostriches, leopards, Dam buffalo’s and rhinoceros. Nature - History was made at the Loskop Dam Nature Reserve in 1964 when a Reserve white rhino calf was born there. The white rhino became extinct in this area in 1896. - It is also famous for its herd of buffalo that have been certified free of foot-and-mouth disease, tuberculosis and corridor disease. - Offers guided game-viewing trips, wilderness trails by boat and then on foot.

- Located on the shores of Loskop Dam adjacent the Nature Dam Reserve. Forever - Offers attractions such as a heated pool, splash pools and water slides. Resort Offers boating and fishing activities. Loskop - Dam - SWIMMING IS PROHIBITED IN LOSKOPDAM AS IT IS FULL OF CROCODILES.

Kranspoort - Located near Loskop Dam. Holiday - Offers all the usual recreational activities. Resort

Loskop - Annual event held between Middelburg and Loskop Dam. Marathon - It is one of the qualifying marathons for the Comrades Marathon.

Loskop Dam Irrigation Scheme - Investigations into the feasibility of a dam on the Olifants River started in 1905. - Eventually, the farm Loskop, about 50km north of Middelburg, was chosen as the site. - The name of the farm and dam was derived from a lone hill in the otherwise open veld. The hill has now disappeared under the water and is visible only when the level drops markedly. Fact file Construction commenced in 1934. Completed: 1938 Dam wall height : 45 m, later raised by 9m Capacity: Initially 178 million m³, then 360 million m³ after the increase in dam wall height.

- After completion of the dam, work then began on the two main canals with a total length of 148 km on either side of the river below the dam. - These canals, together with a network of subsidiary concrete-lined furrows, irrigate some 28 000 ha of land. - It is the second largest irrigation settlement in the country. (After the Vaal- Harts Scheme (Northern Cape), which is the largest.

BOTSHABELO Population: Altitude: 1 453m/4767ft Cultural Heartland Rainfall: Region On route N11, approximately 20km north west of Middelburg and 40km south of Loskopdam

• Situated on the banks of the Little Olifants River within the Botshabelo Nature Reserve.

Origin • In 1865, it was founded by the Berlin Missionary Society, on the farm Boschhoek. • Reverend Alexander Merensky established it as a haven for converted Bapedi refugees who had fled from their chief, Sekhukhune. • He built a church and a school: - A school for the children of converts in 1871. - A training school for the catechists and evangelists in 1878. - A teacher training college in 1906. - A secondary school with a hostel in 1940. - These schools and training institutions were c1osed down in 1969 in terms of the Nationalist government's apartheid policy. • Fort Merensky - The place of refuge. - In 1873, a stone fort was built to protect about 3 000 people who were living at the mission. - The German style fort was first called Fort Wilhelm for Prussian King William I. - The stronghold measured 90 m by 45 m with walls 3 m high and a turreted tower of 8 m. - A good example of Sotho stonework, the fort has fallen into disrepair by 1960, when it was presented to the Simon van der Stel Foundation for restoration. - Most of the funds for the work were donated by the Hans Merensky Trust, which had been established by Hans Merensky, celebrated South African geologist, who was born to Alexander Merensky and his wife at Botshabelo in 1871 and spent his childhood here. - The fort was then renamed Merensky. - Proclaimed a national monument in 1962. The community made its own bricks, cultivated its own food and even had its own postal service, bakery, school, church, blacksmith shop, bookbindery and mill.

Name Botshabelo means 'the place of refuge'.

BOTSHABELO Claims to fame Cultural Heartland continue… Region

Claims to fame Famous South Africans associated with the mission - Geologist Hans Merensky was born here. o He later became one of the most important South African geologists who discovered many important mineral reefs. - World-renowned artist Gerard Sekoto, whose work can be seen in galleries throughout the world. - Internationally renowned Ndebele artist Esther Mahlangu lived here for a period of time. o One of her achievements was establishing herself as the first woman in the list of international Art Car artists being commissioned to a BMW. o Within a week, she transformed the 5 Series into a masterpiece of African Ndebele art.

Historical sites and monuments

- It is situated on the original wagon trail from Pretoria to Lydenburg within the Botshabelo Nature Reserve. - The inhabitants are mainly descendants of the refugees who sheltered at Botshabelo Bothsha- - Recently the historic buildings such as the Merensky fort, the parsonage, belo old mission houses, the church and the old dining hall were restored. Historical o The second church, which was consecrated in October 1873, was for Village many years the largest church building in the Transvaal. o Both this and the first, temporary, place of worship still stand - The entire Village is now proclaimed as a national monument/museum - Guided tours are available to discover the development of Ndebele architecture, art and culture.

Attractions and Activities

Botshabelo - Hosts several common species of antelope. Nature - Olifants River cycads (Encephalartos lanatus) are endemic to this area. Reserve - Offers three hiking trails through the reserve.

STOFBERG Population: Altitude: Cultural Heartland Rainfall: Region

On route R33 approximately 118km north of Belfast and on route R555 approximately 63km north east of Middelburg.

• Lies in the upper reaches of the valley of the Steelpoort (“defile of thieving”)

Origin

• The branch rail line from Middelburg reached Stoffberg as terminus in 1927. • The siding was built on the farm Springboklaagte (“springbok flats”) of Dirk Stoffberg, a wagon maker from the town of Wellington in the Western Cape ho had settled in these parts. • Currently, it serves as a commercial centre for an area where mixed farming is practiced

Name • Named after Dirk Stoffberg.

Agriculture

• Mixed farming activities which include cattle, wheat, maize, groundnuts and vegetables.

Resources and further reading

Erasmus, BPJ. On route in South Africa. Jonathan Ball Publishers. 2004.

Ferrar, S. & Ferrar, T. Inside Mpumalanga – A Guide for Guiding. Institute for Tourism and Leisure studies (North West University – Potchefstroom Campus. 2004. First edition.

Van Dyk, P. Explore Mpumalanga. Izimpilo C & S Publishers. 2003.

Visit and Explore South Africa CD version 2.3 www.saesenegal.info/wine

Visits and photos

Exploration-research Field Trips. Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd. 2007

Oral Resources

Forever Resorts Central Booking and Information Center