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Notes of a Journey Through Canada, the United States of America, and the West Indies Library of Congress Notes of a journey through Canada, the United States of America, and the West Indies. NOTES OF A JOURNEY THROUGH CANADA, &c. &c. NOTES OF JOURNEY THROUGH CANADA, THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, AND THE WEST INDIES. BY JAMES LOGAN, ESQ. ADVOCATE. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CITY OF WASHINGTON 1871 EDINBURGH: FRASER AND CO. 54, NORTH BRIDGE; SMITH, ELDER & CO., AND H. WASHBOURNE, LONDON; AND W. CURRY, JUN. & CO., DUBLIN. M.DCCC.XXXVIII. msu LC E165 .423 PREFACE. The following Notes , made in the course of a ramble in Canada, the United States of America, and the Islands of Cuba and Jamaica, are submitted to the public, in the hope that, although brief and otherwise imperfect, they may be found in some degree useful, both as affording information to intending Emigrants, and as exhibiting the manners of the people to whom they refer, in the light in which they present themselves to a traveller. The Author begs leave to intimate, that the omission of detailed descriptions of scenery, towns, and institutions, has been intentional, these subjects having already received elucidation Notes of a journey through Canada, the United States of America, and the West Indies. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.26860 Library of Congress from able and experienced writers. The rapid manner in which he travelled prevented him from forming any decided opinion respecting the general society vi of the places which he visited; and, therefore, he has confined himself to a simple narrative of occurrences, and to remarks naturally elicited by them. Before leaving this country, the Author had planned a very extended route through South America, as well as a visit to Africa and several parts of Asia. As the countries lying to the south of Mexico are comparatively little known, he intended to devote a liberal portion of time to the study of every interesting object that might occur there; and for this reason, and because the northern parts of America are already well known, he limited his sketches of them to cursory observations, and hurried over them for the purpose of reaching as soon as possible a less trodden field. He was within three days' sail of Carthagena, a sea- port of the Republic of Columbia, where he meant to reside for some time, with a view of obtaining a practical knowledge of the Spanish language, and of studying the manners and customs of the inhabitants, as well as the natural objects that might seem most remarkable. He would then have advanced into the interior, and vii pursued his course alone; but events, over which he had no control, prevented him from accomplishing his undertaking, which he was most reluctantly compelled to abandon. The Author must acknowledge that he often felt the want of a companion, for many things escape the observation of one which attract that of another, and memory is often treacherous. Besides, the greatest pleasure is afforded by an evening conversation, beside a blazing fire, relative to the events of the day. But even a solitary ramble is not without its advantages, for it throws one upon his own resources; and enables him to elicit energies which otherwise might not have been called into action. The utility of travelling cannot be denied, for it affords a practical acquaintance with the ordinary affairs of human life, and a knowledge of human nature, which may be subsequently of much advantage to its possessor. Every young man who has the means of visiting foreign countries ought therefore to avail himself of them. But, surely, the object in leaving his native land ought not to be the enjoyment of loose pleasures, such as many of the more civilized viii Notes of a journey through Canada, the United States of America, and the West Indies. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.26860 Library of Congress countries of Europe so liberally afford, but the improvement of his mind by observation and reflection, and a liberality of sentiment which is best fostered by an extended acquaintance with men placed in different circumstances. Should he then visit other countries than those of Europe, he will have opportunities of comparing the condition of nations differently situated as to physical and mental powers, temperament, disposition, religion, and laws; and of contemplating the wonderfully diversified operations of Divine power and wisdom manifested in the phenomena of nature. Should the traveller be a Briton, he will find the love of his country strengthen as he proceeds; and, when he returns to the home of his youth, he will be grateful to Providence for having cast his lot in a land more highly favoured than any which he has seen, and commence the duties of active life with a resolution to acquit himself in a manner worthy of his station. Edinburgh, 1 st January, , 1838 CONTENTS. PAGE CHAP. I.— Voyage From Greenock To Quebec. Departure from the Clyde.—Adverse wind.—Sickness, listlessness, and amusements of the passengers.—Joseph and the Dominie.—Boarded by a Russian officer in the Atlantic. —Favourable weather.—Serious results of a frolic.—Death of children.—St Paul's Island. —Entrance of the Gulf of St Lawrence.—Pilgrim's Island.—Crane Island.—Quarantine station.—Land on Grosse Island.—Harshness of the Commandant.—Scenery of the St Lawrence.—Quebec, 1 CHAP. II.— Quebec And Montreal. Lower Town of Quebec.—Upper Town.—Narrowness and neglected state of the streets.— London and Albion Hotels.— Theatre.——Convicts sent to Britain.—Falls of Montmorenci. Notes of a journey through Canada, the United States of America, and the West Indies. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.26860 Library of Congress —French and Irish inhabitants contrasted.—Indian village of Lorette.—Plains of Abraham. Fort, Government-house.—Museum, Assembly Rooms.—Indian Encampment.—Voyage to Montreal.—Lumberers.—Montreal much larger than Quebec, its streets wider, and the buildings superior.—Cathedral, Nunneries, Exchange Coffeehouse.—Scenery.—St Helen's Island.—Excursion to Three Rivers.— Races.—English travellers.—Politics of the Canadas, 20 x CHAP. III.— Upper Canada. Route from Montreal to Lachine, Cascades, Coteau de Lac, Cornwall, Prescott, Kingston, and Coburg on Lake Ontario.—Newcastle District.—Account of a “Logging-bee.”— Toronto.—Hamilton.—Dundas.—Mode of Reaping.— Wooden Fences.—Disease in Pigs. —Roads.—Game.— Comparative advantage of Passage from Great Britain by Quebec and New York discussed.—Remarks on Emigration to Canada.—Sum necessary to a Settler.—Progress of Cultivation.—Discouragements.—Certainty of ultimate Success.— Guelph, Waterloo, Goderich.—Passage from Goderich to Detroit on Lake Huron, 41 CHAP. IV.— State of Michigan. The Lakes. Detroit.—Incivility of the people.—Unsocial habits of boarders at the Inns.—Unprosperous state of Sandwich on the Canada side.—Passage to Mackinaw in a schooner.—Accident by the way.—Character of the Crew.—Difficulty of finding accommodations at Mackinaw —Kindness of General Swartz.—Passage to Sault St Marie in the Packet-boat.— The country unfavourable to grain.—Visit to Mr Jacob, an Indian Methodist Missionary.— Mr Bingham's School.— Rise of the River.—Maria Monk's statement supposed to be fabricated for party purposes.—General Dickson's scheme of conquering California.— Sail from Sault St Marie to Gros Cape on Lake Superior, and return.—Anecdotes of Mr Johnston and Mr Deer.—Account of the Indians of the Columbia River, 66 xi Notes of a journey through Canada, the United States of America, and the West Indies. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.26860 Library of Congress CHAP. V.— Excursion to the Western States. Chicago.—Country on the route to Joliet.—Land Speculators injurious to Emigrants.— Ottawa.—Scenery on the Illinois.—Peoria.—The Mississippi.—Mouth of the Missouri.— St Louis.—Scenery on the Mississippi.—Difficulties of its Navigation.—Mouth of the Ohio River.—Louisville.—Peculiarities and inquisitiveness of Americans.—Scenery of the Ohio. —Prevalency of Fogs there.—Wooding for the Steamer.— Crossness of American Morals exemplified.—Advantages of a Trade.—Expediency of Practical Mechanical Institutions discussed.—Cincinnati.—Wheeling.—Fatigues endured in Steamer.—Wellsville.—Its scenery.—Pedestrian Tour.— New Lisbon.—Farms and Houses in the State of Ohio.— American Hospitality contrasted with that of other Countries.—Ashtonburgh.—Ashtabula. —Erie.—Buffalo.—Canadian Inhospitality.—Chippewa, 103 CHAP. VI.— The Eastern and Middle States. Falls of Niagara.—Buffalo and Genesee.—Mr Wadsworth's farm Auburn.—Utica.—Albany. —New York.—Boston.— A Funeral.—Return to New York.—Porters.—Philadelphia. —Ladies.—Baltimore.—Washington.—Congress.— Conversation with a Deist.— Fredericksburg.—Petersburgh.—Bakely.—Halifax.—Raleigh.—Fayetteville.—Altercation with a fellow traveller.—Columbia.—Milledgeville, 137 CHAP. VII.— The Southern States. Travellers assailed by a Thief.—Montgomery in Alabama— Passage on the River to Mobile.—New Orleans.—Loose xii Morals and Insecurity of Life.—Texas, its present condition.—Anecdotes exemplifying the Corrupt State of the Legislature in the Southern States.—Remarks on the Present State of the Americans.—“Liberty and Equality” mere words.—Wandering Propensity of the People.—Character of the Ladies.—Appearance of the Men, 174 Notes of a journey through Canada, the United States of America, and the West Indies. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.26860 Library of Congress CHAP. VIII.— Island of Cuba. Passage from New Orleans to Cuba.—Havannah, Hotels, Depravity of the Inhabitants.— Improvements of the present Governor.—Passage to St Jago.—Visit to the Copper Mines at Cobre.—Observations on the Slave Trade.—Perversion of Justice in Cuba.—Character of the Country.—Sugar and Coffee chiefly cultivated.—Importance of this Island to the British, 198 CHAP. IX.— Jamaica. Passage to Jamaica.—A Shark caught.—St Domingo.—Port Royal.—Kingston.—Spanish Town.—Excursion to Roxburgh Castle in the interior.—General account of the Island, management of Estates, cultivation of Coffee, Character of the Negroes.—Abolition Act.— The late Governor.—Return to Kingston; visit several Establishments there; Remarks on Improvements.—Voyage along the Coast to Black River.—Pirates.—Passage to England, 216 CHAPTER I.
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