Foster Home Handbook

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Table of Contents

Foster Home Procedures About Our Foster Program ……………………………………………………………………………………………….… 2 Contact Information ...... 2-3 Program Procedures & Policies ...... 3

Foster Home Safety & Set-up Home Isolation Procedures ...... 5-6

Health & Medical Information Signs & Symptoms of Illness ...... 7 Common Medical Issues Seen During Fostering ...... 8-11 Kennel Cough ...... 8 Feline Upper Respiratory Infection (URI) ...... 8-9 Diarrhea ...... 9-10 Fleas ...... 10 Ear Infections and Ear Mites ...... 11 How to Medicate ...... 12 Hazards ...... 13-14

Growth & Development Feeding Schedules ...... 15 Exercise, Play & Socialization ...... 16 Growth Stages of Cats...... 17 Growth Stages of Dogs ...... 18 Puppies ...... 19

Training & Behavior for Cats A Social Schedule for Foster Kittens ...... 20 Kitten Proofing ...... 21 Getting Started: A Quick Checklist for Kitten/Cat Success ...... 22 How to Socialize your Kitten ...... 23-24 Getting Kitty Used to a Carrier ...... 25-26 Feline Body Postures...... 27 Toys for Cats ...... 28 The Definitive Guide to Saving your Couch from your Cat...... 29-30 Prevention of Litterbox Problems ...... 31

Training & Behavior for Dogs Socialization for your Puppy ...... 32-33 A Social Schedule for Foster Puppies ...... 34 Body Language ...... 35-36 Socializing Do’s and Don’ts ...... 37 Canine Body Postures ...... 38 Housetraining ...... 39 Submissive Urination ...... 40 Crate Training your Dog ...... 41-43 Fun and Creative Stuff for your Dog to Do ...... 44 Working with an Undersocialized Shy Dog in a Foster Home ...... 45 Shy Dog Do’s and Don’ts ...... 46 Separation Anxiety...... 47-48

Experiencing Loss and Grief Stages of Grief ...... 49 Getting Attached and Bringing Them Back ...... 50 2

FOSTER HOME PROGRAM PROCEDURES

Thank you so much for becoming a part of our foster team! Your willingness to bring animals in need of medical treatment, behavioral support, and general care allows us to fulfill our lifesaving mission. Fostering allows our shelter resources to serve more animals without exceeding our capacity for care in-shelter. Without your support we simply would not be able to help as many animals, so thank you for your ongoing commitment to our foster program.

Our foster program is managed by our Foster & Transfer Manager, Peggy Volkert. As her title implies, Peggy’s time is spent coordinating the transfer of animals into our care for local and regional sources, as well as managing the flow of animals to and from foster care. This work is supported by the incredible talents of foster administration volunteers - individuals who donate their time and talent to making placements, readying animals for foster, and supporting you! Additionally, a number of other staff throughout the organization support our foster work when time allows – it truly takes a village.

Together, we serve more than 2,000 animals each year – making us the largest foster network in the state.

As our program grows, we are often reassessing processes and looking to strengthen the program to make our work more efficient and impactful for foster volunteers and animals we jointly serve. If you have feedback, feel free to share it – we’d love to hear from you!

PROGRAM CONTACTS

Placement Inquiries, Recheck Information, Non-Urgent Questions:  Foster Direct Line: 414-431-6126  Foster Email: [email protected]

You are an incredible partner in our work and with 350+ active foster parents we must triage the return of messages. Please be patient and we will get back to you as soon as is possible – thank you as always for the time and care you devote to these animals.

Behavior Support & Troubleshooting:  Behavior Line: 414-431-6173, must leave a message

Additional Contacts: Milwaukee Campus: 414-264-6257, press 2 followed by 0 to reach a team member Ozaukee Campus: 262-377-7580, press 2 followed by 0 to reach a team member Racine Campus: 262-554-6699, press 2 followed by 0 to reach a team member

Foster & Transfer Manager, Peggy Volkert Phone: 414-431-6132 Email: [email protected]

Director of Animal Sheltering, Alison Kleibor Phone: 414-431-6108 Email: [email protected]

After-Hours Information As a nonprofit, we operate with finite resources and do not have veterinary and behavior staff available 2

24/7. We want to support the animals in your care as best we can while being mindful of our resource limitations.

If you are noticing changes in your animal's behavior or health, please contact us as soon as possible. If you contact us during normal business hours, we will be able to provide more support as staff resources are more abundant. If the concerns do not arise until after we are closed, please understand that we may not be able to respond until the following day. If you decide to seek out private/emergency veterinary services for your foster animal(s), WHS will be unable to cover the expense without prior authorization. We want to do all that we can for these animals, but it is our responsibility to balance the care of individual animals with all the animals in our care.

What to do if you have a concern or question about your foster animal(s) after-hours: 1. Call and leave a message on the campus main line voicemail: (414) 264-6257 MKE, (262) 377- 7580 OZ, (262) 554-6699 RAC. A staff member will call you as soon as possible the following business day. 2. Keep the animal comfortable. 3. If you choose to, you can seek private veterinary care at your own expense.

Pick-up and Drop-off The Foster Home Volunteer will be given full details regarding the level of care, medical treatment, and the approximate duration of time the animal(s) will be in foster care. Upon verbally accepting a foster home assignment, volunteers should report to WHS within 24 hours to pick up the animal(s). Please know that due to the needs of the individual(s) that immediate pick up may be necessary.

The team member releasing your foster animal(s) to you will explain what medicine is being given, if any. If you have questions on how to administer medications, please ask at this time. Upon pick up we will also establish a time for a re-check or return.

When you return the animal(s), please bring a completed animal return profile with you. The return profile helps WHS set the animal up for success.

WHS will provide all necessary food, medication, carriers, crates (when available), and vet care. Foster Home volunteers must provide treats, toys, cat litter, and a litter pan. Please note that kittens under 6 months of age should be given non-clumping litter.

WHS ONLINE COMMUNICATIONS/SOCIAL MEDIA POLICY

I. BACKGROUND The Wisconsin Humane Society (WHS) recognizes that online communication tools such as weblogs ("blogs") social networks (e.g. Facebook, Twitter) and other online channels (chat rooms, bulletin boards, etc.), and virtual worlds (collectively ―social media‖) increasingly serve as channels for direct interaction with community members, the media and other parties interested in our work. As an organization, WHS expects its employees and volunteers to exercise personal responsibility whenever they participate in social media. While WHS encourages its employees and volunteers to join in a global conversation, it is important for WHS staff and volunteers who choose to do so to know what is recommended, required, and expected when they discuss WHS, either at work or on their own time. WHS staff and volunteers are personally responsible for the content they publish on blogs, wikis, or any other form of social media. This policy will help provide the framework for such activities and will continue to evolve as new technologies and social networking tools become available.

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This policy applies to all employees, volunteers, and other representatives of WHS.

III. POLICY 3.1. Online Communications for work-related activities 3.1.1 Any new social media account on behalf of WHS (like Twitter, Facebook group, YouTube channel, for example) will be established through the WHS Communications Department. Setting up a social media account on behalf of the WHS as an individual is prohibited.

3.2.0 Code of Conduct in Online Communications 3.2.1 Blogging and Outreach Promoting the Wisconsin Humane Society’s programs, services, events, activities and fundraising, including use of Wisconsin Humane Society photos, logos or trademarks as replicated from WHS’s web pages or postings, is permitted providing it is compliant with this Policy. Any WHS employee or representative engaging in online activities, whether at work or on your own time, is expected to adhere to the following rules: • Be positive. • Be transparent: If you are communicating in a way that could be construed to represent WHS, identify yourself as an employee, volunteer, or representative of WHS and disclose your position. If you publish opinions or viewpoints about WHS, the work you do, any subjects associated with WHS or your opinion on animal welfare issues, please use a disclaimer that the views expressed are exclusively your own. The disclaimer can be posted on the profile page of a social media website or another page that posts your identification information. Your disclaimer could say something like ―I am an employee of WHS. However, the views I express on this site are my own and do not represent those of WHS.‖ Disclose any conflicts of interest. • Be accurate: Make sure you check your facts with a staff member who’s involved with the issue before posting. Take every precaution to gather the most current information available. Be the first to acknowledge and correct your own mistakes. Do not share statistical information without specific approval from senior level management. • Provide resources: Link back to our website whenever you can so that people can see where your information is coming from. • Be considerate: Do not use profanity, derogatory language, personal attacks, or engage in unlawful harassment or any other conduct that is not acceptable in the WHS workplace or that violates WHS’s personnel policies. • Be professional: Do not allow a legitimate online explanation of a position or debate to devolve into personal attacks, fights or flame wars that would reflect poorly on you or WHS. If there are any doubts about the appropriateness of your involvement in an online discussion, disengage or do not get involved in the first place. Pass along the link to your supervisor. • Protect sensitive information: Protect the Wisconsin Humane Society’s confidential and proprietary information as well as the personal information of others. Proprietary information includes photographs taken in or on areas of WHS properties not accessible to the general public. Any photographs posted that depict WHS animals, staff, volunteers or clients should be carefully chosen to protect the privacy of the individuals depicted and minimize the potential for the image to be taken out of context. Get permission to cite or reference our supporters, partners, or suppliers. Do not disclose or use any confidential or business information about WHS such as animal, client or donor information. Do not disclose any updates and information shared about animals who are not available for adoption, with the exception of foster animals in your care or animals publicized by the WHS Communications Department. Do not disclose personal information about coworkers, volunteers, clients, board members, donors, or former or prospective employees. Respect all copyright, trademark, confidentiality, and financial disclosure laws.

3.2.2 Regardless of whether it is performed in an employee’s official or personal capacity, WHS will not tolerate online conduct that is unethical, illegal, harassing, or defamatory. In addition, it

4 is a violation of our policies to publish material which is critical of, or damaging to, WHS or its partners, affiliates, or donors. Public trust in WHS is critical to our goal of saving animals’ lives. Your relationship with your supervisor, conversations with senior management, and our whistleblower policy all provide ways for you to raise any concern you may have and be sure it is addressed; public criticism is not an appropriate way for employees or volunteers to raise concerns. Even well-intentioned posts can be misinterpreted or taken out of context, so be thoughtful and use caution when posting. Remember that any messages or information sent on WHS provided equipment via an electronic or social network may be labeled automatically as originating with WHS. You should not assume any posting by you is or will remain anonymous even if it appears to be. Also remember that any posting is visible and accessible to the public, so you do not have an expectation of privacy in your postings. If you have any questions regarding this policy and its application, or have any concerns about employee behavior that may violate this Policy, please contact either your manager or the Human Resources Department.

4.0 Respect Work Commitments and Resources Blogging / social networking for personal or leisurely activities should be done on your own time and not interfere with your daily work responsibilities. This is true whether you use WHS’s electronic equipment or your own. However, there may be opportunities to promote WHS and its activities during work hours at a manager’s permission or direction. Speak with your supervisor if you have a suggestion for utilizing social media at work for promoting WHS or any of its programs.

5.0 Compliance WHS employees who fail to comply with this Policy may be subject to discipline, up to and including termination of employment. WHS volunteers or representatives who fail to comply with this Policy may be subject to termination of their volunteer or representative status. In addition, depending on the nature of the violation, participants may also be subject to civil and/or criminal penalties.

ISOLATION PROCEDURES

Foster animals have the potential for being infectious to other animals. They may have been exposed to several pathogens while in the shelter environment. Most of the stray and unwanted animals at WHS have not received proper veterinary care and nutrition prior to entering the shelter; therefore, many have weakened immune systems. Their immunity may also be weakened due to stress, making them susceptible to things that apparently healthy animals may be carrying. Your foster animal may have been exposed to or infected with a disease while in the shelter, but may appear healthy and not show any signs of illness until they are in your home. For these reasons, it is very important that you use good quarantine procedures.

How to maintain a home isolation  We highly recommend that your own companion animals do not have contact with foster animals. If you would like to discuss this please contact the Wisconsin Humane Society.  If your foster dog is 8 weeks or older and is allowed outside to eliminate, all stool should be picked up immediately.  Exercise your pets at different times and in different places than the foster animals.  All litter pans must be scooped clean of fecal and urine material at least once each day.  In the case of severe diarrhea, the litter should be totally discarded as necessary (usually 1-2 times a day) and the pan bleached with 1 part bleach to 32 parts water solution once per day.

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 At no time should foster animals be allowed to share food/water dishes or litte rpans with resident animals.  Always wash your hands after handling your foster animals. Use an antibacterial soap.  An Upper Respiratory Infection (URI) may be aerosolized or carried in the air from one animal to another. Animals must be separated by solid doors and any space at the bottom of the door must be blocked by a towel or sweep.  Do not take your foster animal to any public places where other animals may be encountered.

How to clean & disinfect quarantine areas

 Disinfect all washable surfaces with a bleach/water solution. To be sure to kill all possible spores/viruses, use 1 part bleach to 32 parts water.  Wash all bowls daily and litter pans as needed.  Add color-safe bleach when washing bedding, rugs or towels. The room can also be misted with bleach solution, at the above dilution, using a plant-misting bottle.  Cleaning & disinfecting is vital and may need to be performed daily, weekly, or after a group of animals depending on the condition of the animals. Check with the Veterinary Department about special concerns.

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SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF ILLNESS

Unfortunately, foster animals may become ill during their time with you. It is possible that an animal may actually be infected with a disease and is not yet showing any signs while at the shelter. As thoroughly as the animals are examined prior to foster placement, we cannot detect illness that has not begun to present itself. You will want to watch your foster animal very closely so that you can detect subtle changes in behavior or health early on. Early detection is immensely important in successful treatment.

Signs of illness  Any change in attitude. For example, an animal who was previously very active suddenly becomes lethargic or inactive.  Eating habits—an animal begins eating less or not eating and/or drinking at all  Vomiting  Diarrhea  Sneezing  Nasal Discharge  Ocular (Eye) Discharge  Audible Wheezing or Congestion  Any Areas of Hair Loss

You will need to call us immediately to discuss the problem if any of the above occur!

The Veterinary Department may recommend:  You observe the symptoms and call the following day if there is no improvement or the condition worsens.  You pick up medication or bring in a fecal sample.  You bring the animal(s) in to be examined by a veterinarian. Depending upon the diagnosis: a) animals may be sent back to the foster home on treatment; b) animals may have to stay at the shelter for treatment; c) if the condition is too severe and cannot be treated, the animal may be euthanized as the only humane solution.

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Common medical issues seen during fostering

Kennel Cough Kennel cough is a very common and contagious respiratory infection in dogs. Several agents are involved in the development of kennel cough including viruses and bacteria. It spreads easily by sneezing and coughing and can also be spread by hands, cages, and food and water bowls. Symptoms of kennel cough are usually a dry, hacking cough. The cough may be followed by gagging or retching motions, which are sometimes mistaken for vomiting or choking. The coughing may be more frequent during exercise or excitement. In puppies and immunocompromised dogs, the infection may progress into pneumonia.

While fostering, watch for the following symptoms:  dry, hacking cough  gagging or retching motions  nasal discharge  decrease in appetite and fluid intake  decrease in activity level (lethargy)

Incubation Period: clinical signs may appear anywhere from 3-10 days after exposure

Treatment:  provide adequate fluids  rest  antibiotics when prescribed by Vet. Dept. for secondary infection. In some mild cases, antibiotics may not be necessary, as the infection may be self-limiting in 10-14 days.

Feline Upper Respiratory Infection (URI) Feline URI is a very common and contagious infection in cats. URI’s are similar to human colds in that they are caused by viruses and consequently must run their course. Respiratory infections are easily spread when cats sneeze and also by contaminated food and water dishes, human hands, and clothing. Young kittens and cats, stressed and housed in crowded environments, are the most susceptible to infection because their immune system is compromised. Cats with URI’s are generally not as active as normal and may not eat or drink well because they just don’t feel well. Again, this can be compared to how we feel with a head cold.

Medications are not routinely necessary for a sneezing cat, but there are some measures you can take to help minimize the symptoms and speed recovery. Avoid the following actions that could add to the stress of coming into a new home:

1. Do not over handle the cat at first, let him/her come to you on his/ her own terms. 2. Do not expose the cat to other cats in the home.

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While fostering, watch for the following symptoms of URI:  consistent sneezing  ocular discharge (conjunctivitis)  nasal discharge (change in color)  decrease in appetite and fluid intake  decrease in activity level (lethargy)

Incubation Period: clinical signs may appear anywhere from 1-5 days after exposure

Treatment:  provide rest and a warm, draft-free area  offer tasty, smelly foods to stimulate eating (may slightly warm moist food)  clean away the nasal and ocular discharge to help open up the nasal passages (this can be accomplished by wetting a gauze or paper towel with warm water and wiping/soaking the discharge.)  call us if you notice a decline in the foster animal’s condition  oral antibiotics and topical ointments are often prescribed by the Vet. Dept. to combat secondary infections

Diarrhea Diarrhea is one of the most common problems experienced with companion animals. Fortunately, most cases resolve on their own or with supportive care within a few days.

A passing viral condition or nutritional change in the animal’s diet usually causes diarrhea. Switching from one brand of food to another may cause diarrhea.

You can help to prevent diarrhea by changing your foster animal’s diet gradually, if a diet change is recommended by WHS staff. When you take your animal home from the Wisconsin Humane Society, you will probably change its routine. Unless noted or requested by WHS’ veterinary staff, feed only the food that was provided at pick up. If you run out of the prescribed food, more can be picked up from WHS at foster parent’s request. If your foster animal developed diarrhea within the first 24 hours, but otherwise seems healthy, the most likely cause is a change in diet. A bland diet will help to get your foster animal back to having formed stool. Equal parts of boiled chicken or drained, cooked hamburger mixed with boiled rice, fed in small quantities several times a day may cure the problem. Also, small amounts of white bread or cooked oatmeal mixed into your foster animal’s prescribed food will add needed fiber and help develop a solid stool. Please notify WHS as to any changes or issues with your foster animal’s stool. Before starting a bland diet, please call WHS’ vet staff who will recommend a bland or change in diet if necessary. Once the stools return to normal, you may wean your foster animal back to its normal diet. The weaning process for any change in diet should proceed as follows:  1st feeding: One part new commercial food to 3 parts current commercial food (or bland diet formula used to correct an already existing diarrhea condition)  2nd feeding: repeat 1st feeding formula  3rd feeding: ½ new food to ½ current food  4th feeding: repeat 3rd feeding formula  5th feeding: 100% new food

If at any point in the change of diet the stools become loose, go back to the previous stage formula for a couple of feedings. The entire process of switching foods for animals usually takes 2-3 days. Some animals have a very sensitive digestive process causing them to take different amounts of time to wean to a new diet or require them to be permanently fed a selective diet such as lamb and rice.

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In all cases, when a foster animal is experiencing diarrhea, plenty of fresh water should always be available. Diarrhea can cause dehydration and electrolyte loss and is especially dangerous and evenly deadly for young kittens and puppies. If your foster animal continues to experience diarrhea, please seek help through professional veterinary care at the Wisconsin Humane Society.

Fleas Fleas are bloodsucking insects that feed on you and your pet’s blood. The first time you might notice fleas is when they bite you and your family. The bites show up as small, red, itchy bumps on the ankles and lower legs. Fleas will infest your home year round but are more of a problem in warm weather. Fleas can live from 18 days to 1 year and can survive without a meal for 4 months. Eggs are laid when the female starts feeding on the blood of you or your pet. These eggs fall off and into your carpet, furniture, etc. Some fleas carry tapeworm larvae, which can then infect you or your pet. All of the foster animals are given a flea preventative prior to foster placement, however it may take 24-48 for fleas to completely die off.

Prevention and Treatment  Keep your foster animal away from unfamiliar animals, especially wild animals.  Vacuum and clean the carpet, furniture, and the foster animal’s bedding repeatedly to remove fleas and eggs.  All animals in the home must be treated for fleas.  Fleas on your foster animal can be controlled with different treatments available from WHS, this will ensure that treatment is age and species appropriate before use.  Ask your vet or a pest control company for the best way to treat your home and yard for fleas.

Symptoms  Excessive biting, scratching, and rubbing by foster animal.  Small but visible brownish-black bugs. These are the fleas and they move fast, so make a thorough examination.  Multiple skin irritations caused by flea bites.  Noticeable ―flea dirt,‖ these are the small black feces of the flea.

To Test for Fleas 1. Moisten a sheet of white paper and hold it under your foster animal. 2. Briskly comb the pet’s fur. Any ―flea dirt‖ that falls onto the paper will produce a visible red bloodstain.

Ear Infections Ear infections are easily preventable with care and attention to the ears of your foster animal. There are many causes for ear infections such as excessive amounts of dirt, wax, hair, moisture, or debris in the ear canal. Ear infections are also caused by ear mites. The dogs that are most likely to get ear infections have long floppy ears or swim a lot. There is little danger of contracting an ear infection from your dog, but wash your hands thoroughly after handling your dog’s ears as a precaution.

Prevention  Dog with long, floppy ears should be watched closely for ear infections during warm summer months.

Symptoms  Hair around the ear will be wet or sticky from an unusual discharge with a distinct, abnormal color.  Your dog will be sensitive around the head.  Your dog may tilt its head and hold the infected ear lower.  Shaking, scratching, or rubbing the infected ear. 10

Treatment  To cure an infected ear and prevent relapse, repeated long term treatments are necessary. Use a medication made specifically for ear infections.  Ask a WHS veterinarian for advice.

Ear Mites Ear mites are insects that are too small to see with the naked eye. Use a hand lens to determine if your foster animal has ear mites or call the Wisconsin Humane Society. Ear mites do cause a secondary infection, which must also be treated. Ear mites are transmitted by direct contact between animals.

Prevention  Keep your foster animal away from other animals known to have ear mites.

Symptoms  Vigorous shaking, scratching, or rubbing of the affected ear.  Thick, black crust in the ear canal of the pet.  If you are unsure that your pet has ear mites, contact a veterinarian.

Treatment  The foster animal should immediately be isolated from other animals until completion of the treatment. Please consult the Wisconsin Humane Society if you are concerned that your foster animal may have ear mites.

HOW TO MEDICATE A CAT

1. With one hand, gently grasp the top of the cat’s head. The tips of your thumb and index finger should be positioned at opposite corners of the mouth on the cat’s upper gum line. 2. Gently tilt the cat’s head back so that its eyes are facing upward. 3. Insert the dropper between the teeth and cheek and, while tilting the chin upward, slowly dispense the medication. 4. Wrapping the cat in a towel like a burrito may make medicating the cat easier and less stressful for the cat.

HOW TO MEDICATE A DOG

1. If your dog requires medication in the form of pills, it is easiest to hide the pill in a tasty treat or soft food. 2. Offer the treat before the regular meal. Dogs usually will accept this treat without questioning your motives. 3. If you must give your dog a liquid medication, insert the dropper between the teeth and cheek and, while tilting the chin upward, slowly dispense the medication.

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DAILY AND HOLIDAY HAZARDS

DAILY HAZARDS  “People” Food: Excessive amounts of any non-pet food given to your animals are hard to digest and can cause an upset stomach or diarrhea. Do not offer people food for treats.  Bones: Real animal bones such as chicken or beef bones are dangerous to dogs and cats because they can splinter and pierce internal organs causing serious injury or death. Pieces of bones can also lodge in your pet’s throat and cause choking. Buy your dog safe, rubber, or nylon bones instead or hollowed out nylabones.  Chocolate: Chocolate contains theobromine, which is toxic to dogs and cats because their bodies are unable to process it. Even small amounts can be fatal.  Onions: Onions can lead to anemia in dogs.  Electrical cords: Since many dogs and cats like to chew, it is important to make sure they do not chew electrical cords—burns or electrocution may result. Prevention is key.  Household cleaners, medications, and chemicals: Many common cleaners, medications, and chemicals (including anti-freeze) can be toxic to dogs and cats. These should not be within easy reach of pets. Again, think prevention.  Household plants: Some common household plants may be poisonous to dogs and cats. Review the list of plants in this packet and make dangerous plants inaccessible.  Animals allowed to run loose: Dogs and cats who are allowed to run loose are in constant danger. They can easily get hit by a car, become lost or stray, be attacked by other animals, abused by cruel people, exposed to extreme weather conditions, and will eat garbage or poison. Loose animals are also a danger to other people. Dogs should be walked on a leash at all times, and cats should be kept indoors.

HOLIDAY OR SPECIAL EVENT HAZARDS  Mistletoe, holly, and poinsettias: Keep your foster animal away from these holiday plants because these are poisonous to pets.  Holiday trees: Make sure that your holiday tree is steady and secure so that it can’t be knocked over. If you have anything other than plain water in the tree stand, cover it so that your dog or cat cannot drink from it. Furthermore, tinsel, string, ribbon or angel hair can cause choking or intestinal blockage if swallowed by your foster animal. Sharp pine needles, bits of broken ornaments, and ornament hooks can cause intestinal as well as external injuries. Also, keep ornaments high enough on the tree to be out of reach.  Guests and gatherings: If you have guests, post a sign on both sides of your door so that everyone is careful to close it securely. A dog or cat can easily slip out and not be missed in the festivities. (Make sure that both your foster and companion animals are wearing up-to-date identification.) If you have people over, keep your pet in a quiet room during the festivities. This way, you won’t have to worry about them slipping out, and they won’t be frightened by the noise and commotion.

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TOXIC AND NON-TOXIC PLANTS

TOXIC PLANTS NON-TOXIC PLANTS Acorns* African Violet Aloe Vera (leaf) Air Plant Angel Trumpet (all parts)* Aluminum Plant Asparagus Fern (shoots, berries) Baby’s Breath Azalea* Boston Fern Buckhorn (all parts)* Cactus (most) Caladium (all parts) Coleus Castor Bean (all parts) Corn Plant Chinese Lantern (leaf, unripe fruit)* Dandelions Chrysanthemum (all parts) Dracaena (except D. marginata) Creeping Charlie (all parts) Ecxheveria Daffodil (bulbs) Forsythia Delphinium (all parts)* Gardenia Dieffenbachia (all parts) Gloxinia English Ivy (all parts)* Hibiscus Ficus (sap, peel) Hollyhock Foxglove (leaf, seeds)* Honey Plant Geranium (all parts) Impatients Gladiola (bulbs) Jade Plant Holly (all parts)* Kalanchoe Horse Chestnut (flower, sprout, seeds)* Mountain Ash Hyacinth (bulb) Norfolk Pine Iris (all parts) Palms (all) Jerusalem Cherry (lead, unripe, fruit)* Peperomia Lily of the Valley (all parts)* Petunia Mistletoe (all parts)* Piggyback Mushrooms (all parts)* Rose Narcissus (all parts) Rubber Plant Nightshade (all parts)* Sanseverria Oleander (all parts)* Sedum Peony (roots) Snapdragon Philodendron (all parts)* Spider Plant Potato (sprouts, vines, unripe tubers)* Swedish Ivy Pothos (all parts) Yucca Rhododendron (all parts) Zebra Plant Rhubarb (leaf, roots) Zinnia Syngonium (all parts) Trumpet Lily (all parts) Vinca Vine (all parts) Wandering Jew (leaf)

*These plants have caused fatalities.

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FEEDING

When caring for foster animals be aware that stress may reduce the animal’s appetite during the first 24 hours of adjustment. For adult foster animals, it is best to feed at set times. For young foster animals and moms with litters, it is best to free feed and take notes on how much they are eating throughout the day. By monitoring how much the foster animals are eating, you will be able to offer important feedback to our veterinary staff.

Puppies  may begin eating solid food at 4-5 weeks (food will be provided)  weaned at 6-8 weeks  should be allowed access to dry food at all times beginning at 4-5 weeks of age (may need to soak food initially for very young pups)  canned food can be offered to puppies (up to 6 months) 3-4 times throughout the day  should have a generous supply of water at all times

Adult Dogs  dogs (over 1 year) should be fed 2 times daily  dry food requirements approximately ½ to 1 cup per 10lbs body weight per day (food will be provided)  lactation significantly increases energy needs. Lactating moms with puppies should have dry food available at all times  dogs should have a generous supply of water at all times

Kittens  may begin eating solid food at 4-5 weeks (food will be provided)  weaned at 6-8 weeks  canned food can be offered to kittens (up to 6 months) 3-4 times per day  should be allowed access to dry food at all times beginning at 4-5 weeks of age (may need to soak or mix w/canned food for young kittens)  kittens should have a generous supply of water at all times

Adult Cats  cats (over 1 year) should be fed 2 times daily  dry food requirements approximately 1/3 cup per 10lbs body weight per day (food will be provided)  lactation significantly increases a cat’s energy needs. Lacating moms with kittens should have dry food available at all times  cats should have a generous supply of water at all times

NOTE: Watch for diarrhea, vomiting, decreased appetite, dehydration, and food guarding behaviors such as stiffening, growling, snapping at other animals or people. Refer to foster handouts or call the veterinary or behavior staff if you have any concerns.

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EXERCISE, PLAY, & SOCIALIZATION

Dogs

 Always exercise your foster dogs on leash walks or in secured fenced yards. Dogs must be leashed and wearing a sensible harness at all times when outside. Never leave a dog unsupervised outside. Depending on the foster dog, you may get additional instructions.

 Initiate positive interactions with adults, children, and people visiting your home to help socialize your foster dogs. Try not to overwhelm the animals during the first few days. Give the dog a chance to settle in before introducing new people or situations.

 Introduce appropriate toys and play activities to your foster animals. Games such as fetch or hide- n-seek are such fun! Training can be fun too! Teach the dog to wave, roll over or shake. Dogs love to learn new things, especially when they get treats for it! Puppies as young as 8 weeks can begin to learn cues. You’ll be surprised at how quickly they learn!

 Immediately discourage any rough play such as jumping up, mouthing, games of tug-o-war with toys or clothes or rough-housing. Redirect to appropriate toys or cues. See additional handouts or call the behavior line if you experience problems.

 Slowly begin handling your foster puppies/dog in relation to grooming activities. Touch and look at their ears, paws, tail, and in their mouth. Praise and reward animals during handling exercises. If dogs struggle, fuss, or in any way make you feel uncomfortable, do not push the issue. Note any areas of concern on the animal return profile and call the behavior line.

Cats and Kittens

 Foster cats and kittens should remain indoors at all times. Secure cats and kittens in appropriate kennels/carriers during transportation.

 Exercise cats indoors by playing with toys and offering opportunities for natural scratching instincts. Scratching posts are a wonderful and necessary element to good cat behavior. Do not encourage kittens to play with your hands. Use fishing pole style toys for the kitten to chase and pounce. They’ve got to practice their hunting skills, but not using your hands as the prey!

 Initiate positive interactions with adults, children, and people visiting your home to help socialize your foster cats. Try not to overwhelm the animals during the first few days.

 Slowly begin handling your foster kittens/cats in relation to grooming activities. When foster cats initiate interactions, offer plenty of love and affection. Hold and cuddle kittens often, attempt to brush daily, touch and look at their ears, paws, and tail. If cats struggle, fuss, or in any way make you feel uncomfortable, do not push the issue. Note any areas of concern on the animal return profile and call the behavior line if experiencing further problems. Also include any information regarding the cat’s individual personality.

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GROWTH STAGES - CAT

Kittens are born with their eyes and ears closed; these will begin opening between 10-14 days of age. From the time they are born until about 2 weeks of age, kittens cannot regulate their own body temperature and therefore need a source of heat. Newborn kittens should never be left unattended on electric heating pads as severe burns can result. During the first 2 weeks of life, the kittens will nurse several times a day and usually sleep when not nursing. For the first 2 to 3 weeks of life, kittens need to be stimulated to urinate and defecate by the mom licking the anogenital area.

If the mom is healthy and well nourished, the newborn’s nutritional needs for its first 3 to 4 weeks of life should be handled completely by the mother. Signs to watch for during this stage which may indicate problems include: the kitten crying constantly, the kitten does not nurse or is extremely inactive, and failure to gain weight.

By 3 to 4 weeks of age, kittens become more active and begin interacting with littermates. Kittens also become interested in food and water. Food can be left out free choice since housetraining isn’t a concern as it is in dogs. Kittens may start using the litterbox at this age also. Weaning usually takes place between 6-8 weeks of age.

Weeks 3-7 are considered the most important for kittens in terms of socialization. During this period, which is often termed the critical period for socialization, it is critical that kittens have contact with and are handled gently by people. Kittens also need stimulation and interaction with littermates to help develop coordination, strength and social skills.

Mothers with kittens may be overprotective! Moms may be more protective with people and other animals that they may see as a threat to their kittens. Always approach moms slowly and let them come to you. Keep the mother and her kittens isolated from other animals and ALWAYS use caution.

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GROWTH STAGES - DOG

Puppies are born with their eyes and ears closed; these will begin opening between 10-14 days of age. From the time they are born until about 2 weeks of age, puppies cannot regulate their own body temperature and, therefore, need a source of heat. Newborn puppies should never be left unattended on electric heating pads as severe burns can result. During the first 2 weeks of life, the puppies will nurse several times a day and usually sleep when not nursing. For the first 2 to 3 weeks of life, puppies need to be stimulated to urinate and defecate by the bitch licking the anogenital area.

If the mom is healthy and well nourished, the newborn’s nutritional needs for its first 3 to 4 weeks of life should be handled completely by the mother. Signs to watch for during this stage which may indicate problems include: The puppy crying constantly, the puppy does not nurse or is extremely inactive, and failure to gain weight.

By 3 to 4 weeks of age, puppies become more active and begin interacting with littermates. Puppies also become interested in food and water. Puppies can be given solid food mixed with water to form a gruel during this time. Food should be given 3 to 4 times daily and for about 10 – 15 minutes at a time. Both of these steps will aid in housetraining. Weaning usually takes place between 6-8 weeks of age.

Weeks 5 to 14 are considered to be the most important for puppies in terms of socialization. During this period, which is often termed the critical period for socialization, it is crucial that puppies have contact with and are handled by people. Puppies also need stimulation and interaction with littermates to develop social skills in order to relate to other dogs normally.

Mother’s with puppies may be overprotective! Moms may be more protective with people and other animals that they may see as a threat to their puppies. Always approach them slowly and let them come to you. Keep the mother and her puppies isolated from other animals and always use caution.

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Puppies When socializing young puppies, remember that every interaction is a training and socializing opportunity! Everything the pup learns about living in a human world will come from you, other littermates, or if you're lucky-the pup's natural mother. Many of our foster pups do not have the advantage of having a canine mom, so you may have to fill that position as well!

This may sound like a huge responsibility, and it is. It is also one of the most rewarding aspects of working with puppies. You have the opportunity to mold their behaviors and to introduce them to all of life's first experiences.

At approximately four weeks of age, puppies' senses are fully functioning. Gentle handling and a stable consistent environment are essential. Wait until the pups are at least five weeks old to invite people outside of your family to handle and coo over the little ones. Prior to five weeks of age, the puppies can be easily overwhelmed.

At five weeks of age, the fun begins! At this age, the pups begin their attachments to humans. The following are suggestions to encourage healthy social development:

. Initiate positive interactions with all types of people. Be careful not to overwhelm the pups, a very scary incident can make a negative impression that can last a long time. . Expose the pup to new situations by taking walks on different surfaces in your yard. . Introduce the pup to a crate. Please see handout for additional information. . Car rides are an important new experience but can also be stressful. Pups should be transported in a carrier at all times. Adults dogs should be leashed and attached to a secure object. If the pup is carsick, call the shelter for suggestions. . Gradually acquaint the pup with vacuum cleaner, baths, grooming tools, etc. . Begin housetraining. Please see handout for instructions. . Teach the pups to maneuver steps. Begin slowly by placing the pup on the bottom step first. As the comfort level increases, use a treat to lure pup down and continue to treat for each attempt. . Introduce a buckle collar and leash. Always supervise them while they are wearing collars and never keep the collars on inside the cage or crate. . Play is important! No rough and tumble or tug-of-war games. It is fun to watch two littermates play these games together but pups should never play these games with humans. Fetch and hide-n- seek are great games to introduce to a youngster!

Please take your time and enjoy introducing the young ones to life! If you have any questions at all, feel free to call the WHS Behavior Department at 414-431-6173.

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A Social Schedule for Foster Kittens

Socialization is the first step in raising a well-adjusted companion. During the first weeks of their lives, young animals go through a critical period of development. When a young animal is exposed during this period to new people, places, and situations in a positive way, there’s a good chance he will be accepting when he experiences these things again later in life. Socializing is seeing/meeting a novel thing and having a pleasant experience and that the reward we are offering (treat/praise) is actually reinforcing to the animal.

Socialization should always be positive. Although exposure to handling and new experiences is important, you don’t want to overwhelm young animals. Gently petting them for just a minute or two a couple of times a day is enough to develop their social skills. Likewise, even small amounts of auditory, tactile and visual input can increase coordination, problem-solving skills and sociability later in life.

Try introducing your new companion to as many of the following people/situations as possible:

General People: Different surfaces:  Adults  Stairs (up and down)  Babies  Wood  Toddlers  Ceramic tiles  Children  Carpet  Teenagers  Slippery surfaces  Seniors  Wet surfaces  Both genders

 Different ethnicities Home Environment: People Wearing:  Phone ringing  Raincoats  Doorbell  Umbrellas  Loud TV  Loud music  Sunglasses  Hair dryer  Hats  Vacuum cleaner  Beards  Dishwasher  Helmets  Washer/dryer  Costumes  Electrical appliances  Shaved heads  Sweeping  Unusual hairdos  Perfume  Crutches  Cooking smells  Legs in cast  Doors closing and opening  Walkers  Furniture  Wheelchairs  Looking out windows  Strollers  Timer beeping  Back packs

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Kitten Proofing – Home Essentials

Below is a list of steps to take in Kitten-Proofing your home:  Cords / Windows: Cat and kittens enjoy batting around cords from hanging blinds. The danger is that they get tangled up and choke. Be sure to either anchor the cords or tie them up out of reach.

 Decorations / Jewelry: Do not leave fragile items (vases, glasses, etc.) or jewelry (earrings, chains, etc.) sitting on the coffee table or counters accessible to your feline friend. Best care, you make a sacrifice to your new kitty’s exploration. Worst case, kitty swallows a sharp object and gets hurt.

 Garage: Unless it is a living area, the garage should be a ―Cat-Free Zone‖. Garages usually contain too many poisonous/hazardous materials. Anti-freeze is particularly deadly and is doubly dangerous because of its sweet taste. Clean up any spilled anti- freeze and keep the garage floor thoroughly washed if your cat has access to it.

 Home Electronics: Electrical cords are a hazard to cats, as they love to chew and play with them. Consider buying cord management systems or tape cords together and fasten them out of reach. The same goes for phone cords.

 Home Office: Rubber bands, paper clips, thumb tacks, broken balloons and other small articles are irresistible to cats. Put away anything you would not want a toddler to get his hands on.

 Kitchen / Bathroom: Kitchen cabinets are another danger zone. Be sure to place child- safety bands on cabinets where you keep bleach, detergent, cleaning supplies or personal hygiene products (including dental floss).

 Laundry Room: Clothes dryers are especially dangerous. Cats love to snuggle up in warm places. Because of that, be sure to always close the dryer door.

 Living Room: Kittens love to climb furniture and drapes. You might want to consider covering cloth furniture with a cover, blanket or bedspread.

 Poisons: Be sure to remove any ant/roach traps from places where kitty may find them. Cats love to chew and play with things and these items might deliver a dangerous dose to your cat.

 Safe Haven: Be sure to have a ―safe haven‖ within your house when you first bring the cat home. Stock this room with food, a litter box, toys, scratching post and a bed. This will help the cat acclimate to your home and you some time to cat-proof your house.

Copyright © 1999-2012, KittenCare.com LLC, All rights reserved.

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Getting Started – A quick checklist for kitten/cat success

Socializing kittens o Newborn kittens with mom - stick to very short handling sessions so the mother cat does not become anxious. o When kittens are between 3 and 4 weeks of age, handle the kittens daily so that they become very comfortable with being picked up, held and touched. o Expose the kittens to different walking surfaces such as carpet, linoleum, tile, etc.

Playing with kittens/cats o Have a variety of toys. Consider:  Cat Charmer (fishing pole type)  Cat Dancer  feather wand  glitter balls  Mylar balls  balls with bells in them  Refer to handout on toys for more information o Never use hands/fingers to during play. o Schedule at least 2 playtimes on most days. o Rotate playtime objects frequently so cats don’t become bored. o Make scratching posts available.

Tips for litter box success o Place litterboxes in quiet, private places that are easily accessible to the cat and where it will not be disturbed by children. o Limit kittens’ territory until they learn that the litterbox is the only acceptable place to eliminate. o Use non-clumping litter until the kitten is 4 months old. o NEVER place litterboxes near food and water dishes. o Use unscented litter in an open litterbox (no hood or liner). o Scoop out the litterboxes daily.

Please feel free to contact The Wisconsin Humane Society Behavior Line with questions or concerns about your foster animal’s behavior at 414-431-6173.

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How to Socialize Your Kitten Early Handling and Enrichment

If you have a mother cat and her litter in your household, you’re responsible for socializing the kittens. Get started as soon as possible! Substantial evidence indicates that handling and environmental enrichment starting shortly after birth is valuable for many young animals, including cats. Careful rearing early-on in life will help kittens mature into wonderful, well-adjusted pets.

Early handling

Studies show that the more human contact a kitten gets before seven weeks of age, the friendlier that kitten is likely to be toward humans when he grows up. Early handling not only vastly improves the odds that the kittens will like people, but it also speeds up their physical development. Kittens who are held and stroked for just a few minutes each day will open their eyes earlier, begin exploring earlier and be less afraid of strangers and other unusual things that they encounter later in life.

 If the mother cat doesn’t mind your presence, you can start handling even newborn kittens briefly every day. Pick them up one at a time, stroke them gently, turn them over for a couple of seconds, and then put them back with their littermates.

 Use caution—a little bit of stimulation goes a long way at this age. Handling kittens too much may backfire, especially if they’re very young or if their mother seems anxious about your interaction with them. So stick to very short handling sessions.

 Some mother cats can be very protective of their newborn kittens, especially for the first few days after birth. If this is the case, try to handle the kittens for a few moments while mom is out of the room, perhaps during her mealtime. If you find that mom’s too nervous to allow any contact with her newborn kittens, don’t fret—it’s most important to start handling them after they’re about two weeks of age.

Continued handling and enrichment

Once the kittens’ eyes and ears are fully functional and they’re capable of regulating their own body temperature (between three and four weeks of age), they can really start absorbing new experiences. In addition to continued handling, they need exposure to a variety of novel sights, sounds, smells and sensations.

 Continue to handle the kittens daily so that they become very comfortable with being picked up, held and touched all over.

 At four weeks of age, the kittens can eat solid food, and if their mom is a mouser, you may see her start bringing them prey. This is when most kittens start getting interested in chasing and pouncing on moving objects. (Kittens who are weaned early tend to start playing with toys a little earlier.) At this stage, you can provide valuable enrichment by introducing the kittens to interactive toys. Expose the kittens to different walking surfaces, including carpet, grass, linoleum, gravel and concrete.

 Provide objects for them to explore, such as cardboard boxes, paper shopping bags, packing paper and toys that encourage them to investigate various holes with their tiny paws. Rotate playtime objects frequently so that they don’t become bored.

 Make scratching posts available.

 Again, use caution. Although exposure to handling and new experiences is important, you don’t want to overwhelm the kittens. Gently petting them for just a minute or two a couple of times a

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day is enough to develop their social skills. Likewise, even small amounts of auditory, tactile and visual input can increase coordination, problem-solving skills and sociability later on in life.

Fingers Are Not Toys!

Three to four weeks of age is a great time to introduce interactive toys for your kitten to chase. Use toys attached to a string or a wand so that you can make them bounce and skitter around like mice or birds. Not only will tempting interactive toys entertain and exercise your kitten—they’ll also teach him a valuable lesson. It’s extremely important for young cats to learn early-on that human fingers and toes are NOT toys. Play biting becomes much more painful as cats get older. If your kitten scratches or bites your hands or ankles in play, make sure you have a toy handy so that you can distract him with it. Redirecting his attention to a toy gives him an appropriate outlet for his natural play behavior.

What If My Cat Wasn’t Properly Socialized? If you have an older kitten or cat who missed out on early socialization, don’t worry. The younger he is when you start working with him, the friendlier he’s likely to become, but even older cats can benefit from remedial socialization. All behavior can be modified, and while it’s much easier to teach a very young cat to accept humans, it’s not impossible to make an older cat more comfortable with his surroundings. Just remember that it may take a lot longer for an older kitten to come around.

Please feel free to call the Behavior Line with questions or concerns (414) 431-6173.

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Getting Kitty Used to the Carrier

Occasionally every cat guardian has to take their beloved companion on a trip. Usually this is to the veterinarian, although there are many destinations, such as a new home or the cat sitter. Whatever the destination, one problem is common to all trips – most cats simply don't enjoy cat carriers.

The great thing is that it doesn't have to be this way. With a proper introduction to the carrier, your cat may actually enjoy car rides. The principle is to try to make good things happen whenever the cat has an interaction with the carrier.

Follow these steps to get kitty used to the carrier:

Step 1 - Desensitize  Clean the carrier thoroughly using dish soap to remove any smells. Never use bleach or strong smelling chemicals to clean your cat carrier! Leave the carrier around the house at all times with the door wide open.  Allow your cat to ignore or investigate as she sees fit; just don't make a big deal out of it.  Silently observe your cat's reactions and interactions to the carrier. Maybe pick it up a few times and move it somewhere else, see if she gets nervous. If she seems nervous around the carrier, then stick with this stage for a while longer.  After a few days (possibly a few weeks) you should find that your cat is rather indifferent to the carrier, but possibly has now developed some level of interest.  Don't rush to the next step. Make sure your cat is comfortable with the carrier in the room before moving on.

Step 2 – Positive Association Once the previous step has been completed and any negative association has been removed, or at least lessened as much as possible, you can start to create a positive association much more effectively. If you have a top opener, you will need to place the carrier on its side, so that the opened lid lays flat to the ground, like a doorstep or porch. If you have a front opening carrier, prop the door open.  Food - Begin by putting some highly desirable food in the entrance of carrier, like chicken or tuna. If possible, try to make sure your cat is nearby and is aware that you are putting something in the carrier, but again, don't make a big deal out of it. If she ignores it, be patient and just keep trying. Gradually move the food further inside until it is at the back and she has to show a little courage if she wants the treat. If you've already gotten your cat to eat inside the carrier, then make sure you always feed her in the carrier for a while.  Toys – Try putting some toys in the carrier. Start leaving them right in the entrance, and work your way back.

 Sleep – After some success with the other two techniques, line the carrier with some nice soft bedding and leave it in some out-of-the-way nook that offers ―invisibility‖ for your cat, while also offering a good view of the surrounding area.

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Step 3 – Shutting the door  Once your cat is comfortable eating inside the carrier, try pushing the door closed while she’s eating. Don't lock it at this stage, and if your cat becomes distressed or agitated, open the door immediately and reassure her.  When you can do this without a problem, you can begin to lock the door. Start with just a minute or two, and if your cat becomes distressed, open the door immediately.  After a few days you should find that you can leave the door shut for several minutes without too much complaint from Ms. Whiskers.

Step 4 – Moving the carrier  Now that your cat is comfortable in the carrier, try feeding her inside it, about 20% of her food at a time. Put the food in the carrier and when Ms. Whiskers goes inside to eat, close the carrier. Then, simply carry her to another room. Set the carrier down and open the carrier, letting her jump out. Wait 30 minutes and repeat the process with another 20% of her food. Continue until all of her food has been served. Do this for several days until your cat is no longer nervous with being picked up in the carrier.

Step 5 – Getting Ms. Whiskers used to the car Once your cat is happy enough to be inside the carrier for 7-10 minutes, you’re ready to try taking her out for a drive.  Line the bottom of carrier with something absorbent (such as newspaper) in case of an accident, and on top of that put something warm and soft (such as a towel or small blanket).  Encourage your cat into the carrier. If this is difficult, you may benefit from sticking with the previous two steps for a while longer.  Put the carrier securely on one of the car seats. The exact seat in the car is less important than making sure that the carrier is on a pillow to reduce vibration, and seat belted so that it doesn't go sliding off. Also, make sure that little (if any) direct sunlight gets into the carrier; this could be very unpleasant for the cat and may undo some of your hard work.  Go for a drive that lasts considerably less time than the cat's shortest comfortable time in the carrier so far. Even driving 200 yards up and down the road will be fine for the first trip.  Every day for the next week and regularly after that take your cat out for a longer drive. Eventually, going out in the cat carrier will be no stress at all. If Ms. Whiskers seems to get too stressed, then feel free to go back a step or two and come back to this part later.

Continue building positive associations and in no time you will find that you have actually trained your cat to love the carrier!

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Toys for Cats

Cats, like people and dogs, benefit from keeping fit and active, both mentally and physically. Exercise is essential for your cat’s mental and physical health because it relieves stress and boredom, improves circulation, builds muscle tone and can prevent or reduce behavioral problems. So, we need to get our cats up and moving, and there’s no better way to coax out their natural instincts to stalk and chase prey than by engaging them with toys.

Types of Toys for Fun and Games

Wand Toys A wand toy can be as simple as a stick with a thin piece of fabric or soft ribbon tied to it. You can wave, twitch, flutter and circle the wand around randomly so that the ribbon moves enticingly like an insect or bird or other prey. A key added benefit of the wand toy is that it lets you keep some distance between your cat’s claws and your skin.

There are hundreds of variations of the wand toy, and most are relatively inexpensive. The wand itself can be wire, wood or plastic. Anything pliable but firm will do. Many objects can be attached to the wand to attract your cat’s attention: feathers, strings or small stuffed toys. These objects can be accented with bells or electronic noises, or with catnip scent or fur that smells good to your cat. Feathers from peacocks or other large birds can be used as wand toys themselves.

It’s best to put the wand toy away after playtime for three reasons:  This toy should be available to your cat only when you’re playing with her, so you can build on your relationship with her.  When you put the toy away after a play session, it’s a good idea to make sure it’s still safe. Watch for pieces of string or other components that might fall off the toy and get swallowed by your cat. If you notice any loose toy parts, it’s probably time to retire the old toy and get a new one.  How many times have you seen mice or birds just hanging around a cat? By putting the toy away after playtime, it remains attractive and interesting when you begin the next play session.

Ball Toys Balls are also very attractive to many cats. Their movement along the floor mimics the movement of scampering mice or other prey animals, which will entice cats to chase. You can insert treats or catnip into some balls to make playing with them more rewarding and exciting for your cat. Other balls have bells or other small objects inside them that make noise to attract your cat’s attention. The only downside to ball toys is that they often end up under the couch or other furniture! Some ball toys you might like to try:  Wadded-up paper (experiment with different textures and sizes)  Mylar balls (crinkly and shiny)  Ping-pong balls (watch for wear)  Sponge balls (nice and quiet)

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The Definitive Guide to Saving Your Couch from Your Cat

This is not ―rocket science‖ and yet I am continually surprised by the number of feline behaviorists that have successfully kept kitty from urinating on the carpet, from biting the house guests, and cruising the countertops but when it comes to saving the couch, they go blank. On the contrary, the behavior consultants at Cats International consider this to be the easiest behavior problem to solve.

Think about it… If you had just gotten a new puppy and the puppy was digging up your expensive landscaping, would your first thought be to have your puppy’s toes surgically removed? I expect that you would naturally and intelligently opt to engage in a training program. Elective mutilation, also referred to as ―declawing‖ is never the answer. While some cat owners feel that they are solving the scratching problem with surgery, later they may discover that this choice may have pre-disposed their cat to avoiding the litter box, as well other problems such as shyness and biting problems. Take away one form of defense (the paw swipe) and the cat will use its teeth. This is just common sense.

Now some people don’t realize that cats are just as easily trained as dogs. The truth is that you may have already done an excellent job training your cat to scratch the couch.

Does this sound familiar?

Kitty starts tearing at the couch or your favorite chair… You and other family members run from all parts of the house to chase kitty away from the scratching target. From kitty’s standpoint, this event rates high as an ego-booster (one little scratch and the family is at his feet!) Now, if the family chooses to yell and chase the cat around the house, this game is now elevated to High Priority!

Now, time for the reconnaissance mission…or how to undo the damage we’ve done.

 Let’s start with an understanding that scratching serves many useful and healthy purposes for cats.  Cats need to stretch and exercise and condition their nails  Every cat household should have at least two cat-appealing scratching posts in high-traffic areas.  The post should be at least 32‖ high  It should be sturdy and unable to be tipped  Sisal material or rope are the preferred scratching materials (don’t use carpeting!)  Place the post in front of the problem area  Praise the cat every time he uses the post (positive reinforcement—works!)

Now we all know that cats are very territorial animals and marking is an important occupation for cats. In order to feel secure in their home territory, they routinely patrol the area and mark it by rubbing or scratching. The scratching post offers an excellent outlet for this natural behavior.

Now the cat is in love with the post. You may have rubbed some catnip on the sisal post or perhaps you just scratched the post with your fingernails to entice kitty. Don’t think for a moment that he hasn’t 29 forgotten his old haunts and he may be interested in re-visiting the old areas. (After all, he worked hard to mark them!).

This is our opportunity to prove that we can be just as clever as cats. We have a rather unfair advantage, however, as there are now a multitude of very effective deterrents to help us. When kitty checks out an old spot or a brand new one, we can go to our arsenal of deterrents. The best part is that there is no yelling or running around and it works when you are sleeping or out of the house.

These are our “Secret Weapons”

Feliway Spray If sprayed in problem areas on a regular basis, it will give the cat the impression that the area is already marked—no need to scratch. Can be purchased through the Doctors Foster and Smith Catalog (1-800- 826-7206)

Sticky Paws This clear, double-sided tape is inexpensive and can be applied to almost any surface. Cats dislike anything sticking to their paws. Can be found in most pet stores or in the Doctors Foster and Smith Catalog.

SSSCAT This motion detector hisses when the cat approaches the problem area. Even the most fearless of cats clear the area when it activates. This product can be purchased through the Doctors Foster and Smith Catalog (1-800-826-7206)

Vinyl carpet runner If the back-side of the vinyl carpet runner has a very prickly feel, it can be cut and placed in the area that you want your cat to avoid.

Solid Air Fresheners Cats dislike perfume. An air freshener may keep the cat away from an area until it has evaporated. (Never put it near the litter box or a feeding area). Scented dryer sheets may have the same effect.

Now that we have given you all our secrets of success, please share them with others. No cat should have to experience the pain and permanent mutilation that is the result of the declawing procedure.

Please feel free to call the Behavior Line with questions or concerns (414) 431-6173.

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Prevention of Litter Box Problems

10 essential steps

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A Social Schedule for Foster Puppies

Socialization is the first step in raising a well-adjusted companion. During the first weeks of their lives, young animals go through a critical period of development. When a young animal is exposed during this period to new people, places, and situations in a positive way, there’s a good chance he will be accepting when he experiences these things again later in life. Socializing is seeing/meeting a novel thing and having a pleasant experience and that the reward we are offering (treat/praise) is actually reinforcing to the animal.

Socialization should always be positive. Although exposure to handling and new experiences is important, you don’t want to overwhelm young animals. Gently petting them for just a minute or two a couple of times a day is enough to develop their social skills. Likewise, even small amounts of auditory, tactile and visual input can increase coordination, problem-solving skills and sociability later in life.

Try introducing your new companion to as many of the following people/situations as possible: General People:  Carpet  Adults People in Uniform:  Slippery surfaces  Babies  Police  Wet surfaces  Toddlers  Firefighters  Gravel  Children  Postal workers  Grass  Teenagers  Vet clinic staff  Cement  Seniors  Crossing guards  Tarmac (not hot)  Both genders  Meter readers  Mud  Ice  Different ethnicities Vehicles: mostly for puppies

Home Environment: People Wearing:  Car rides  Phone ringing  Raincoats  Motorcycles  Doorbell  Umbrellas  Bicycles  Loud TV  Sunglasses  Screeching brakes  Airplanes  Loud music  Hats  Hair dryer  Beards  Helicopters  Street cleaners  Vacuum cleaner  Helmets  Dishwasher  Snow plows  Costumes  Washer/dryer  Garbage trucks  Shaved heads  Electrical appliances  Car horns  Unusual hairdos  Sweeping

 Crutches Different surfaces:  Perfume  Legs in cast  Stairs (up and down)  Cooking smells  Walkers  Sand  Strollers  Wheelchairs  Wood  Back packs  Ceramic tiles

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Body Language: Do you know what your dog is saying? By Colleen Pelar, CPDT, CDBC www.livingwithkidsanddogs.com

Recognizing some common canine stress signals makes supervising the interactions much easier. If your dog shows one of these signals, it is time to intervene and suggest an alternate activity. Just because your dog is showing signs of stress, doesn’t mean that she’s on the verge of aggression. But all behavior deteriorates under stress – our own and our dog’s – so it is important for us to be able to recognize when our dogs need a little help.

Lip Licking When a dog is anxious, she will often quickly stick out her tongue and lick her lips. It’s usually just a fast, little flick. Watch your dog; this is one of the most common signals.

Shaking Off Compare this to a kind of reset button. The dog is doing a full-body shake- off, as if she were wet. It often happens just after a stressful interaction. Pay attention. It happens more often than you might think

Yawning This is often mistaken for contentment. The dog is surrounded by kids, and she lets out a big yawn. Isn’t that sweet? Nope, it’s a sign that she’s in over her head and would appreciate your help.

Half-Moon Eye When a dog is calm and relaxed, you don’t usually see much white around her eyes. The ―half-moon‖ refers to the white arc that is often seen when a dog is stressed and trying to hold it in.

Turning Away Often guardians think a dog turning away is ―blowing them off‖ and they intensify their demands on her, which is exactly what the dog is trying to avoid.

Freezing Watch out! Dogs typically freeze right before they snap or bite.

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Socializing – Do’s and Don’ts

Do…  Do make sure that each of the following events are pleasant and non-threatening. It’s better to go too slow and assure your puppy is not frightened or injured than rush and force your pup to meet new things and people.  Do invite friends over to meet your pup. Include men, women, youngsters, oldsters, different ethnic backgrounds, etc…  Do invite friendly, healthy, vaccinated dogs or puppies to your home to meet and play with your puppy. Take your puppy to the homes of these pets, preferably with dog- friendly cats.  Do take your puppy to shopping centers, parks, school playgrounds, etc. Places where there are crowds of people and plenty of activity.  Do Take your pup on car rides through different neighborhoods, drive-thrus, car washes, and out into the country where he’ll see and smell a variety of farm animals.  Do encourage your puppy to explore and investigate (with supervision of course). Introduce him to everyday objects like boxes, bags, vacuum cleaner (not on), broom, umbrellas, etc.  Do introduce your puppy to new and various sounds; such as traffic, children playing, vacuum cleaner, and trains (start from a far distance and gradually go closer)  Do Examine your puppy’s feet, teeth, and ears to have them become accustom to this so they are more relaxed at the vet. Don’t forget to have them become accustom to being brushed, bathed, and nails clipped as well.  Do introduce your puppy to stairs. Even if you do not have stairs it is important for all puppies to become familiar with them since you never know when he will run across them.  If your puppy is small enough, do carry him around town and left strangers pet him and give him treats.

Don’t…  Don’t soothe, encourage or calm a puppy when they appear frightened. Instead remove him from the situation while staying calm and upbeat.  Don’t force or rush your puppy. Let your puppy take things at his or her own pace.  Don’t expose him to too much at one time. It is more productive to have frequent and brief exposures. Puppies can tire quickly and need lots of sleep.  Don’t put your puppy in a position in which he feels threatened. Remove your puppy from an experience that is harmful, painful or excessively frightening. This can cause phobias in your puppy.  Don’t wait! Every day provides an opportunity to socialize your puppy. Socializing your puppy right away will help him become a healthy social dog.

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HOUSETRAINING

The following general guidelines will help you get through the housetraining/adjustment period.

1. You should start over as if the dog was never trained in the first place. Use preventative measure to establish good habits—you should not wait for the dog to signal! Most puppies/dogs will have to eliminate in the morning when they wake up, 15-20 minutes after eating, after any vigorous play period, and after napping. Keep a calendar and record the time of each success and mistake. You may notice a pattern that will help you to plan.

2. Feed at set times; adult dogs two times per day, puppies three times a day. Do not vary the schedule. Place the food down for 15 minutes. The dog should be fed in a quiet atmosphere with no interruptions. If the dog does not eat, remove the food. The dog will be hungry at the next feeding. It is very normal for a dog to miss a feeding or two. If you are concerned, you should contact a veterinarian for further advice regarding feeding.

3. Feed a high quality pet supply food and do not vary it. Food purchased at a pet store may seem more expensive, but are most cost effective in the long run. Higher quality foods are more digestible and have less filler. This means they won’t have to eliminate as often and there will be less to pick up.

4. The dog should be taken out to the same place at set times. You should stay out with him and chant in a soft voice, ―go potty‖ over and over until the dog starts to eliminate. When the dog starts to potty, be quiet. As soon as they finish, praise and give 3-4 small tasty treats right then and there. You should only stand outside with the dog for 3-5 minutes.

5. If the dog does not go while outside, he should not be given free run of the house unless you have your eyes on the dog 100% of the time. If the dog cannot be watched he should be confined to a small area or placed in a crate. You may also tie the dog to your belt so that the dog has to follow you wherever you go. This is called umbilical cording. If the dog starts to eliminate you will be right there to take him outside. (More information can be found under crate training.)

6. Clean up accidents with a product designed to remove urine odor. NEVER scold or take the puppy/dog to that spot and shove his nose in it.

7. You should be very vigilant with their routine. The dog has not earned the right to have freedom unsupervised in the house. Crate training and umbilical cording will help them establish communication. If you can be very consistent for two weeks, you should notice a dramatic improvement.

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Submissive Urination

Submissive urination can be a problem for guardians, but keep in mind, that in dog language the dog is doing everything he can to convey the message ―I am no threat‖. The problem usually disappears as dogs mature, gain confidence and become comfortable in their surroundings. It is very important that you DO NOT PUNISH the dog. Submissive urination is a separate issue from housetraining.

Submissive Urination is likely to occur when:  the guardian comes home and greets the dog with lots of attention  the dog is disciplined  the dog is a somewhat anxious, shy or timid dog  the dog has a history of receiving punishment after the fact  the guardian is arguing with another human  guests greet the dog on the guardian’s territory

Here is what you can do if your dog has a submissive urination problem:

1 NEVER CORRECT or PUNISH a dog that urinates submissively. Just avoid eye contact and ignore the dog. You need to help build the confidence of your dog. 2 Go to your veterinarian to ensure there is not an underlying medical condition. 3 Clean up the urine with a product designed to remove pet odors and stains. Ignore your dog while you are cleaning up the urine. 4 Enroll your dog in an obedience class that utilizes positive reinforcement. Practice training for five to ten minutes each day. You can offer him cues that he knows during times when he is likely to submissively urinate. When he responds correctly you can reward him. This will give him something to do besides urinate and will help build his confidence. 5 Vigorously exercise your dog for at least fifteen minutes twice a day. 6 Avoid long affectionate departures and arrivals. When arriving home acknowledge your dog with a soft hello. Then avoid eye contact and ignore the dog for the next 15 minutes. When you and your dog are calm get down on the dog’s level and softly call the dog to you. Let your dog approach you. 7 Avoid approaching him with postures that he reads as dominant. *Avoid direct eye contact. Look at his back or tail. *Pet under the chin instead of on top of the head. *Present the side of your body rather than your full front. 8 Ask guests to ignore the dog when they first enter your home. After they have been in the home for a short period of time they may greet the dog in the same manner described above.

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Crate Training Your Dog

Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but it is worth the investment. Crate training provides several of the following advantages:  Limits access to the house while your dog is learning the ―house rules‖  Prevents your dog from chewing inappropriate things and from ingesting harmful items  Allows your dog to feel he or she has his or her own personal space or den  Allows you to have a safe way to transport your dog in the car  Provides a safe retreat when your dog feels afraid or experiences stress  Aids in housetraining your dog

Crate training is a unique tool. It is important to note the following about use of a crate:  Crates are not a substitute for training your dog  They are only to be used for short periods at a time  A crate should not be used for punishment or behavior modification  Always associate the crate with something pleasant  Crate training should take place in a series of small steps – don’t go too fast

Selecting a Crate Crates may be plastic, often called flight kennels, or collapsible, metal pens. Collapsible fabric kennels are designed for use when the owner is present and may not contain a dog for long periods while unsupervised. Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be large enough for him to stand up, lie down and turn around.

The Crate Training Process Starts Immediately Completely crate training your new dog may take days or weeks, depending upon your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. If your new dog is not yet ready for the crate, he should be contained in a safe room that is easy to clean. Chewable or breakable items as well as electrical cords should be out of reach. You may use a baby gate or keep the dog connected to you on a leash. Your supervision is critical and when the dog is loose in the house, never let him out of sight. The steps, begin as soon as your new dog arrives home with you. Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate • Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened open so it won’t hit your dog and frighten him. • To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop small high-value food treats like small pieces of hotdogs or cheese near it, then just inside the door and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay, don’t force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. • Repeat these two exercises about five times. Make sure to praise the dog gently while he or she is in the crate and then take a short break. Repeat this procedure several times the first day. Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate • While introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. • Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too

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quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine and he’ll keep doing it. • Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog to the Crate for Longer Time Periods • After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a cue to enter, such as, ―kennel up.‖ Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate. • Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. Step 4: Part A – Crating Your Dog When Left Alone After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular cue and a treat. You will also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. Stuffed Kongs give him something to do while you are away. Then leave quietly. You’ll want to vary at what point in your ―getting ready to leave‖ routine you put your dog in the crate. You can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone. Part B – Crating Your Dog at Night Put your dog in the crate using your regular cue and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer.

Potential Problems

Too Much Time in the Crate A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. It is not recommended to crate a puppy under 6 months old for more than 3-4 hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer periods. Do not be surprised if the puppy has accidents in the crate, if left for longer than 3-4 hours at a time.

Whining If your dog whines while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining. If your dog is testing you, he’ll stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re sure that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, do

41 not acknowledge the whining, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

The Dog Isn’t Ready for the Crate If your new dog is not yet ready for the crate, he should be contained in a safe room that is easy to clean. Chewable or breakable items as well as electrical cords should be out of reach. You may use a baby gate or keep the dog connected to you on a leash. Your supervision is critical and when the dog is loose in the house, never let him out of sight.

Separation Anxiety Crate-trained dogs do not develop separation anxiety as a result of being crated. Separation anxiety is an emotional state intrinsic to the dog. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety will not solve the problem. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. Should you suspect your dog has this condition, you should consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

If your dog truly seems to panic while in the crate by excessively drooling or trying to chew through the crate, please contact the Wisconsin Humane Society’s Behavior Line at 414-431-6173 for assistance.

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Fun & Creative Stuff for Your Dog to Do

While you are away… If you are crate training your dog give him something to do in his crate. Provide your dog with something delectable – something he only gets while in his crate. 1. Hard, sterilized beef bones stuffed with a bit of liver sausage, cheese, peanut butter, or a few doggy treats. (If using human food, the bone should be cleaned and sterilized after each use.) 2. Kong toys come with recipes for stuffing. Their shape allows them to bounce and roll in unpredictable directions. 3. Leave a radio or TV on while you are away. The familiar sound will make your dog more comfortable in your absence.

While you are home… Provide your dog with interactive, challenging and fun things to do. 1. Teach your dog to use an enrichment feeder. These come in a variety of shapes that can be filled with treats or kibble. As the dog maneuvers the feeder around by shoving, tossing, and rolling it a piece of kibble falls out. He is actually rewarded for playing with his toy! 2. Activate your dog’s chase instinct by playing a good game of fetch! Never assume he will always return to you. Keep him on a very long line or inside a fenced in yard. If your dog doesn’t fetch – throw his toy anyway. When it hits the ground, chase after it yourself – laugh and pretend to enjoy the game. Soon your dog will chase after the toy after you throw it just to beat you to it! 3. Instead of leaving lots and lots of toys out all of the time, provide your dog with only three to four toys at a time. Pick them up every few weeks and exchange them with others after their novelty has worn off. A few weeks later get ready to exchange them again and your dog will have the thrill of always having interesting toys. 4. Teach your dog a trick or two! Visit the library or Animal Antics to pick up some good books on teaching tricks. 5. Try playing catch in the dark! Many pet supply stores and catalogues sell glow-in-the- dark Frisbees and balls. Dogs don’t see well in dimly lit areas so make sure you play in an area where your dog won’t run into anything. 6. Celebrate special occasions by giving or making your dog a treat. Visit a dog bakery, get a pet treat cookbook, or check the freezer section of the grocery store for frozen pet treats!

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SEPARATION ANXIETY

Many dogs exhibit some form of anxiety. Separation anxiety in true form does not occur very often. It is a condition in which the dog cannot cope with the absence of his owners. The dog has a physiological and behavioral response when separated from his owner, resulting in panic and destructive behavior. Dogs are pack animals and enjoy the company and attention of their owners. They may show their anxiety by whining, barking, howling, destructive behavior like chewing or digging, escaping, house soiling, dilated pupils, panting, drooling, and sweaty pads. Some people think the dog is ―getting even‖ with them for leaving them alone, or that the dog is being disobedient, but this is not the case.

How do you know if your dog has separation anxiety? There are several different behaviors that can be associated with separation anxiety. If you answer yes to most of the statements below there is the possibility that your dog may have a separation anxiety problem.  When your dog is left alone with free access to a room or the entire house does he scratch, chew and paw at the doors and windows?  When you are home does your dog follows you from room to room?  When you arrive home is your dog frantic with excitement?  As you prepare to leave the house does your dog becomes nervous or excited by actions you perform- put your shoes on, put your coat on, pick up your keys, etc.?  When you come home from short outings is there a puddle of saliva in the crate where your dog was left?  Does your dog try to escape from the crate he is in?

Recommendations  Keep your arrivals and departures as low key as possible. When you come home, calmly and quietly greet your dog, them ignore him for a 10 minutes or so. If you get very excited about coming and going, your dog will too.  Interact with your dog only when you choose, not because your dog demands it. This is a leader of the pack program. Spending quality time with your dog is essential.  Work with your dog on basic manners for fifteen minutes daily to build the dog’s confidence and provide quality time. One exercise is to practice sit-stays or down-stays. The goal is for you to distance yourself while your dog remains in that position and is relaxed. After your dog is consistent with a ―stay‖ while you are at the opposite side of the room, begin moving toward a door. Remain in the doorway several times before attempting to step out of sight. When you do step out of your dog’s sight, keep the duration very short. You want your dog to build confidence in knowing that you will return and there is no reason to panic. By practicing with your dog, you are also providing some one on one interaction with him.  If one event seems to trigger your dog’s anxiety, begin desensitizing him to that trigger. For example, if picking up your keys causes your dog to become anxious, periodically pick up your keys and move them around the house throughout the day when you are going to be home. You can also pick up your keys and give your dog a yummy treat. This will signal to him that bad things don’t always come from keys clanging. Keep track of what triggers your dog to become anxious. Randomly desensitize your dog to each of the triggers.  Practice mock departures of varying duration (from 1 minute to 10 minutes). Use different stimuli such as grabbing your keys or starting your car. You need to let him know that when you leave it’s not forever. Also establish a ―safety‖ cue that will help

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your dog identify that you will return. This can be turning the radio on a soothing station right before you leave. It can be leaving a special toy (one that is safe for your dog to play with alone). During the practice sessions you can turn the radio on, tell your companion ―I’ll be right back‖ then leave. When you return ignore him for a couple minutes, the calmly greet him.  Vigorously exercise your dog for at least fifteen minutes, twice daily. The most important time to exercise is in the mornings before you leave. Exercise alone will not cure separation anxiety, but it can save your house from a bored dog with lots of energy.  Provide your dog with a special toy when you leave- such as a Kong stuffed with yummy treats and a bit of peanut butter. Begin by giving you dog the toy then walking out of the room. Before he can get all of the treats out, come back in and pick up the Kong. (Do not try this if your dog has resource guarding issues.) The goal is that you dog will want you to leave so he gets the yummy treat back.  Use pet sitters, doggie day care, neighborhood friends or a teenage boy or girl who can be trusted to play, exercise and let the dog out during the day. This can provide your dog with a situation in which he is not alone.

What won’t help separation anxiety?

 Punishing and/or correcting a dog that exhibits separation anxiety will not help the issue. When you come home and punish your dog for something that he did earlier, such as chewing personal items or soiling in the house or crate, he is likely to associate the punishment with his enthusiastic greeting. Therefore, punishment only increases his anxiety. Just forget it! Focus on the positive and reward your dog using verbal praise, treats, or petting. You need to build the confidence of your dog.  Getting another pet may not help an anxious dog. Often separation anxiety results from being separated from the owner. Another animal means more work for you and there is a chance the animals will not get along.

What about crating my dog? Putting a dog that has separation anxiety in a crate may have more disadvantages than benefits. Doing so will minimize damage to the house, but the other manifestations of anxiety, such as vocalization and inappropriate elimination, often occur. Many dogs destroy the crate and injure themselves. Although behaviorists do recommend crates for certain purposes, such as housetraining, none suggest a crate should be used for long term confinement. The exception is when the dog has been taught to accept the crate as its den and can derive a sense of security from occupying it. A dog must be introduced to a crate gradually. Anxiety in a crate can occur when the dog is put into a newly purchased crate, but not acclimated to it ahead of time.

If the dog does not show anxiety in a crate, you can prevent problems by confining him with plenty of water when you are not able to supervise (see material on crate training), and by providing toys that satisfy the chewing instinct (stuffed bones or Kong toys are great!)

A great resource to learn more about separation anxiety is ―I’ll Be Home Soon!‖ by Patricia B. McConnell, Ph.D., and can be found in Animal Antics at the Wisconsin Humane Society.

If you have questions or need further assistance please contact the Wisconsin Humane Society’s Behavior Line at 414-431-6173.

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STAGES OF GRIEF

The goal of the foster program at the Wisconsin Humane Society is to help as many animals find permanent homes as we can. Sometimes the animals come in to us with illness, injury, debilitating fear or behavior issues, or all of the above. We do our best, between the staff and the volunteers, to help the animals recover, grow, heal and thrive.

There are times, despite our best efforts, that an animal does not make it. This can be a heartbreaking experience. There are many thoughts and feelings that may pass through you. There are elements of grief and loss that are commonly experienced.

Guilt Did I make the right decisions? What could we have done differently? Was euthanasia the right thing to do?

Denial Is s/he ―really gone‖? Am I disloyal if I decide to foster again?

Anger At the vet who treated the animal At anyone you believe is responsible for the death At family/friends/staff who do not seem to understand At self for feeling you haven’t done enough or the ―right things‖

Depression Depression is a natural extension of sadness and often occurs following a loss. Mental health professionals refer to depression following a loss as ―circumstantial depression‖. Symptoms may include change in appetite, change in sleep patterns, lack of sense of pleasure from normally enjoyable activities, lack of interest in usual activities, persistent crying spells that do not diminish over time.

Resources for Counseling  Barb Lucius, Volunteer Grief Counselor at WHS: (414) 431-6182  Therapist available through your insurance plan  Family physician

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GETTING ATTACHED…AND BRINGING THEM BACK

Fostering animals can be an intensely rewarding experience, but sometimes can be very difficult as well. You will be bringing animals into your life that depend on you for their care and then at the end of a span of time, will return them to the shelter to go into a permanent home. You are one important step in their journey. It can be hard to turn the animal back in, because you care and you’ve given so much of yourself. You’ve come to know their individual personalities, and often come to love them. You may consider the possibility of adopting each one of your foster animals, or you may not. Keep in mind that there are many people who adopt, and very few who have what it takes to foster…to offer animals a chance at life. It does take a certain strength of spirit to be able to give them what they need and to let them go, knowing there is so much more work to be done.

During this difficult time, keep in mind that everyone has the best interest of the animals in mind. The adoption screening process at WHS is thorough and designed to place animals into a home where they are likely to be happy for the rest of their lives.

We do provide adopters with a letter explaining that their animal has been in a foster home for several weeks. The letter asks the new adopter to please take a moment at some point to send in a photo and a short note about how their new companion is doing. This information will then be placed in the volunteer newsletter that is mailed every 2 months. In this way, you will be able to have a glimpse into what you’ve made possible.

Foster care would not be possible without foster caregivers. The difficulty you experience can be far outweighed by the joy of saving lives.

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