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American Cuisine Regional REGIONAL AMERICAN CUISINE MARCH/APRIL 2021 Chef Jason D. Hall, CMC VP of Research & Culinary Development at Southbend Through my time in the industry, from taking the Certified Master Chef Exam to practicing LET THE CUSTOMIZABLE daily for over three years on Culinary Team USA leading up to IKA, I have always needed the support of custom equipment solutions. SOLUTIONS OF A Now on the other side of those and many other industry endeavors, I am proud to provide my personal support to you as we design and build SOUTHBEND SUITE BE the cooking suite of your dreams. Contact me, Jason D. Hall, CMC Vice President THE HEARTBEAT OF of Research and Culinary Development at Southbend to have a consultation of your vision YOUR KITCHEN and how we can achieve your goals together. Open Top Burners • Manual/Thermostatic Griddles • Planchas • Induction Tops • Electric Tops Charbroilers • Broilers • Hot Tops • French Tops • Cheesemelters • Salamanders • Fryers TruVection • TruVapor • Convection/Standard Ovens • Cabinet Space • Refrigerated Bases • Shelving 919.762.1000 | www.southbendnc.com | FEATURE STORIES 28 Regional American Cuisine From the Wild West to the Deep South, we explore the foods of Arizona and Colorado and learn the differences between Creole and Cajun cooking. 36 Pandemic Pop-Ups Pop-up restaurants and menus are making a comeback as chefs find new ways to experiment. DEPARTMENTS 10 Management Leveraging new technologies — from software programs to kitchen equipment — enhances efficiencies during challenging times and beyond. 16 Main Course A look at lesser-known, lower-cost cuts of meat and ways to prepare them for maximum flavor. 20 On the Side Try these game meats on for size, courtesy of an Indigenous chef and ACF member. 22 Pastry Biscuits feature just a few simple ingredients, but variations abound by region and daypart. 26 Classical vs. Modern A study of classic manicotti and a modern, plant-based version. 44 Health Chefs offer tips on how to stress less and prioritize self-care. 46 Segment Spotlight Chefs in the hotels and resorts segment talk about the changes they’ve made in the past year, many of which have become permanent. IN EACH ISSUE 14 Chapter Close-Up 4 President’s Message 40 ACF Chef Profile 6 On the Line 42 Chef-to-Chef 7 News Bites 50 The Quiz WEARECHEFS.COM 3 | President’s Message | Un Mensaje Del Presidente | As I write this, there is still snow on the ground, so I’m looking forward to spring. This year, I’m even more eager for spring and summer to come, and perhaps you are as well. The past year has been tough, but the future looks bright. I say this as we are deep in the process of planning our annual convention Editor-in-Chief Amelia Levin in Orlando, Florida, in August, which we hope will Creative Services Manager “Ignite Your Passion.” David Ristau After spending so much time apart, we’re designing this year’s convention to Graphic Designer Armando Mitra be all about bringing the ACF family back together, reuniting with old friends Advertising and Event Sales Eric Gershowitz and connections, and hopefully making new ones. Of course, education is at Jeff Rhodes the core of what we do, so we can’t wait to share with you the final lineup of Director of Marketing and Communications Alan Sterling presenters and all the topics to be covered. The other core part of our convention is competitions. The structure of competitions — and other programming — American Culinary Federation, Inc. might look slightly little different this year as we take the necessary precautions to 180 Center Place Way • St. Augustine, FL 32095 ensure the safety of all of our competing chefs and attendees. But they will still be (800) 624-9458 • (904) 824-4468 • Fax: (904) 940-0741 [email protected] • [email protected] as exciting and enlightening as ever. www.acfchefs.org First and foremost, I want to thank you, our ACF community, for your unyielding support. It is your loyalty and commitment to our organization, as well Board of Directors as the camaraderie you share with your fellow chefs, that keep us moving forward, President Thomas Macrina, CEC®, CCA®, AAC® growing stronger, and able to give back to each other and our communities at National Secretary large. Also, thank you to the attendees of the first President’s Town Hall meeting. Mark Wright, CEC, AAC National Treasurer We will be hosting four more this month, featuring candidates running for James Taylor, CEC, AAC, MBA National Office, so be sure to tune in! We greatly value your feedback, comments American Academy of Chefs Chair Americo “Rico” DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC and ideas. Vice President Central Region I would also like to give a shout out to all of our allied partners, vendors and Steven Jilleba, CMC®, CCE®, AAC Vice President Northeast Region suppliers who support the ACF and our chef-members throughout the year. We Barry R. Young, CEC, CCE, AAC wouldn’t be able to plan a superior event without you, and we are so grateful. Vice President Southeast Region Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC®, CCA, AAC Also, I am happy to report that since the start of the year, more chapters Vice President Western Region have been getting together with their own members and with other chapters Robert W. Phillips, CEC, CCA, AAC Executive Director — both safely in person as well as in engaging virtual meetings, the latter of Heidi Cramb which is thanks to the success of our online forum, Chef’s Table. Our new webinar series supports these efforts to keep you connected, engaged and The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), March/April 2021, Volume 45, Number 2, is owned by the American Culinary informed. And, stay tuned for continued programming through our Online Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced 6 times a year by ACF, located at 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. A Learning Center. digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® is included with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available In closing, I want to remind you that we at ACF here for your needs. Our to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; nonmember 90-day trial membership for new members and flexible payment plan have subscriptions are $40. Material from the National Culinary Review®, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without been working very well. We encourage you to take advantage of those options, written permission. All views and opinions expressed in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not should you need them, and feel free to share this information with potential necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers or members of ACF. Changes of mailing address should be sent ACF members. We’re also working on developing other exclusive benefits and to ACF’s national office: 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL opportunities for our members. 32095; (800) 624-9458; Fax (904) 940-0741. The National Culinary Review® is mailed and periodical postage Happy spring, and I can’t wait to see you all again! is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary Review®, 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC National President American Culinary Federation Contact me at [email protected] or follow me on Twitter @cheftommacrina and Instagram @cheftommacrina 4 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 Mientras escribo esto, todavía hay nieve en el suelo, así que estoy deseando USPS® Statement of Ownership, Management and Circulation Publication Title: The National Culinary Review® que llegue la primavera. Este año, estoy aún más ansioso por la llegada de Publication Number: 0747-7716 la primavera y el verano, y quizás ustedes también lo estén. El año pasado Filing Date: December, 2020 Issue Frequency: Bi-monthly fue difícil, pero el futuro es prometedor. Digo esto ya que estamos inmersos Number of Issues Published Annually: 6 Annual Subscription Price: $35/$25 subscriber/member domestic, $85 international en el proceso de planificación de nuestra convención anual en Orlando, Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: American Culinary Federation, Florida para el mes de agosto, la cual esperamos “encienda su pasión”. Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 Contact Person: Alan Sterling, Director of Marketing & Communication Después de pasar tanto tiempo separados, estamos diseñando la Telephone: (904) 484-0247 Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: convención de este año para volver a reunir a la familia de ACF, para American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 reencontrarnos con viejos amigos y contactos y, con suerte, hacer Publisher: Alan Sterling, Director of Marketing and Communications, American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 algunos nuevos. Por supuesto, la educación está en el centro de lo que Editor: Amelia Levin, Editor in Chief, American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 hacemos, y es por eso que estamos ansiosos por compartir con ustedes Managing Editor: Amelia Levin, Editor in Chief, American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center la lista final de disertantes y todos los temas que se tratarán. La otra Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 Owner: Full Name: American Culinary Federation, Inc. parte fundamental de nuestra convención son las competencias. La Owner: Complete Mailing Address: 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 estructura de las competencias, y otros eventos de la programación, puede Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None Tax Status: The purpose, function, and nonprofit status of this organization and the exempt verse ligeramente diferente este año, ya que tomamos las precauciones status for federal income tax purposes: Has Not Changed During Preceding 12 Months necesarias para garantizar la seguridad de todos nuestros chefs y asistentes.
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