REGIONAL AMERICAN CUISINE

MARCH/APRIL 2021 Chef Jason D. Hall, CMC VP of Research & Culinary Development at Southbend

Through my time in the industry, from taking the Certified Master Chef Exam to practicing LET THE CUSTOMIZABLE daily for over three years on Culinary Team USA leading up to IKA, I have always needed the support of custom equipment solutions. SOLUTIONS OF A Now on the other side of those and many other industry endeavors, I am proud to provide my personal support to you as we design and build SOUTHBEND SUITE BE the cooking suite of your dreams. Contact me, Jason D. Hall, CMC Vice President THE HEARTBEAT OF of Research and Culinary Development at Southbend to have a consultation of your vision YOUR KITCHEN and how we can achieve your goals together.

Open Top Burners • Manual/Thermostatic Griddles • Planchas • Induction Tops • Electric Tops Charbroilers • Broilers • Hot Tops • French Tops • Cheesemelters • Salamanders • Fryers TruVection • TruVapor • Convection/Standard Ovens • Cabinet Space • Refrigerated Bases • Shelving

919.762.1000 | www.southbendnc.com | FEATURE STORIES 28 Regional American Cuisine From the Wild West to the Deep South, we explore the foods of Arizona and Colorado and learn the differences between Creole and Cajun cooking. 36 Pandemic Pop-Ups Pop-up restaurants and menus are making a comeback as chefs find new ways to experiment.

DEPARTMENTS 10 Management Leveraging new technologies — from software programs to kitchen equipment — enhances efficiencies during challenging times and beyond. 16 Main Course A look at lesser-known, lower-cost cuts of meat and ways to prepare them for maximum flavor. 20 On the Side Try these game meats on for size, courtesy of an Indigenous chef and ACF member. 22 Pastry Biscuits feature just a few simple ingredients, but variations abound by region and daypart. 26 Classical vs. Modern A study of classic manicotti and a modern, plant-based version. 44 Health Chefs offer tips on how to stress less and prioritize self-care. 46 Segment Spotlight Chefs in the hotels and resorts segment talk about the changes they’ve made in the past year, many of which have become permanent.

IN EACH ISSUE 14 Chapter Close-Up 4 President’s Message 40 ACF Chef Profile 6 On the Line 42 Chef-to-Chef 7 News Bites 50 The Quiz

WEARECHEFS.COM 3 | President’s Message | Un Mensaje Del Presidente |

As I write this, there is still snow on the ground, so I’m looking forward to spring. This year, I’m even more eager for spring and summer to come, and perhaps you are as well. The past year has been tough, but the future looks bright. I say this as we are deep in the process of planning our annual convention Editor-in-Chief Amelia Levin in Orlando, Florida, in August, which we hope will Creative Services Manager “Ignite Your Passion.” David Ristau After spending so much time apart, we’re designing this year’s convention to Graphic Designer Armando Mitra be all about bringing the ACF family back together, reuniting with old friends Advertising and Event Sales Eric Gershowitz and connections, and hopefully making new ones. Of course, education is at Jeff Rhodes the core of what we do, so we can’t wait to share with you the final lineup of Director of Marketing and Communications Alan Sterling presenters and all the topics to be covered. The other core part of our convention is competitions. The structure of competitions — and other programming — American Culinary Federation, Inc. might look slightly little different this year as we take the necessary precautions to 180 Center Place Way • St. Augustine, FL 32095 ensure the safety of all of our competing chefs and attendees. But they will still be (800) 624-9458 • (904) 824-4468 • Fax: (904) 940-0741 [email protected] • [email protected] as exciting and enlightening as ever. www.acfchefs.org First and foremost, I want to thank you, our ACF community, for your unyielding support. It is your loyalty and commitment to our organization, as well Board of Directors as the camaraderie you share with your fellow chefs, that keep us moving forward, President Thomas Macrina, CEC®, CCA®, AAC® growing stronger, and able to give back to each other and our communities at National Secretary large. Also, thank you to the attendees of the first President’s Town Hall meeting. Mark Wright, CEC, AAC National Treasurer We will be hosting four more this month, featuring candidates running for James Taylor, CEC, AAC, MBA National Office, so be sure to tune in! We greatly value your feedback, comments American Academy of Chefs Chair Americo “Rico” DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC and ideas. Vice President Central Region I would also like to give a shout out to all of our allied partners, vendors and Steven Jilleba, CMC®, CCE®, AAC Vice President Northeast Region suppliers who support the ACF and our chef-members throughout the year. We Barry R. Young, CEC, CCE, AAC wouldn’t be able to plan a superior event without you, and we are so grateful. Vice President Southeast Region Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC®, CCA, AAC Also, I am happy to report that since the start of the year, more chapters Vice President Western Region have been getting together with their own members and with other chapters Robert W. Phillips, CEC, CCA, AAC Executive Director — both safely in person as well as in engaging virtual meetings, the latter of Heidi Cramb which is thanks to the success of our online forum, Chef’s Table. Our new webinar series supports these efforts to keep you connected, engaged and The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), March/April 2021, Volume 45, Number 2, is owned by the American Culinary informed. And, stay tuned for continued programming through our Online Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced 6 times a year by ACF, located at 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. A Learning Center. digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® is included with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available In closing, I want to remind you that we at ACF here for your needs. Our to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; nonmember 90-day trial membership for new members and flexible payment plan have subscriptions are $40. Material from the National Culinary Review®, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without been working very well. We encourage you to take advantage of those options, written permission. All views and opinions expressed in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not should you need them, and feel free to share this information with potential necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers or members of ACF. Changes of mailing address should be sent ACF members. We’re also working on developing other exclusive benefits and to ACF’s national office: 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL opportunities for our members. 32095; (800) 624-9458; Fax (904) 940-0741. The National Culinary Review® is mailed and periodical postage Happy spring, and I can’t wait to see you all again! is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary Review®, 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095.

Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC National President American Culinary Federation Contact me at [email protected] or follow me on Twitter @cheftommacrina and Instagram @cheftommacrina

4 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 Mientras escribo esto, todavía hay nieve en el suelo, así que estoy deseando USPS® Statement of Ownership, Management and Circulation Publication Title: The National Culinary Review® que llegue la primavera. Este año, estoy aún más ansioso por la llegada de Publication Number: 0747-7716 la primavera y el verano, y quizás ustedes también lo estén. El año pasado Filing Date: December, 2020 Issue Frequency: Bi-monthly fue difícil, pero el futuro es prometedor. Digo esto ya que estamos inmersos Number of Issues Published Annually: 6 Annual Subscription Price: $35/$25 subscriber/member domestic, $85 international en el proceso de planificación de nuestra convención anual en Orlando, Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: American Culinary Federation, Florida para el mes de agosto, la cual esperamos “encienda su pasión”. Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 Contact Person: Alan Sterling, Director of Marketing & Communication Después de pasar tanto tiempo separados, estamos diseñando la Telephone: (904) 484-0247 Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: convención de este año para volver a reunir a la familia de ACF, para American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 reencontrarnos con viejos amigos y contactos y, con suerte, hacer Publisher: Alan Sterling, Director of Marketing and Communications, American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 algunos nuevos. Por supuesto, la educación está en el centro de lo que Editor: Amelia Levin, Editor in Chief, American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 hacemos, y es por eso que estamos ansiosos por compartir con ustedes Managing Editor: Amelia Levin, Editor in Chief, American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center la lista final de disertantes y todos los temas que se tratarán. La otra Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 Owner: Full Name: American Culinary Federation, Inc. parte fundamental de nuestra convención son las competencias. La Owner: Complete Mailing Address: 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095-8859 Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 estructura de las competencias, y otros eventos de la programación, puede Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None Tax Status: The purpose, function, and nonprofit status of this organization and the exempt verse ligeramente diferente este año, ya que tomamos las precauciones status for federal income tax purposes: Has Not Changed During Preceding 12 Months necesarias para garantizar la seguridad de todos nuestros chefs y asistentes. Publication Title: The National Culinary Review Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: Jan 2019 to Nov 2020 Pero seguirán siendo tan emocionantes e instructivas como siempre. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Educational Culinary Publication for Members and Subscribers En primer lugar, quiero agradecerles a ustedes, nuestra comunidad 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months de ACF, por su apoyo inquebrantable. Su lealtad y compromiso con a. Total Number of Copies: 2,945 nuestra organización, así como la camaradería que comparten con sus b1. Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions: 2,580 b2. Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions: 16 colegas, es lo que nos mantiene avanzando, fortaleciéndonos y capaces b3. Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS®: 0 de retribuir la generosidad que recibimos entre nosotros y a nuestras b4. Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS: 0 comunidades en general. También quiero agradecer a todos aquellos c. Total Paid Distribution: 2,596 d1. Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies: 0 que asistieron a la primera reunión del Ayuntamiento del Presidente. d2. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies: 0 Este año organizaremos cuatro reuniones más, con candidatos que d3. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS: 0 d4. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail: 105 se postulan para la presidencia a nivel nacional, ¡así que no olviden e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: 105 sintonizarnos! Valoramos mucho sus comentarios, sugerencias e ideas. f. Total Distribution: 2701 g. Copies Not Distributed: 15 También me gustaría agradecer especialmente a todos nuestros h. Total: 2,716 socios y proveedores aliados que apoyan a ACF y a nuestros chefs i. Percent Paid: 96.1% 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation durante todo el año. Sin ustedes no podríamos organizar un evento de No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date tan alto nivel, y estamos muy agradecidos. a. Total Number of Copies: 2,514 b1. Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions: 2,350 Asimismo me complace informar que desde el comienzo del año, b2. Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions: 16 b3. Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, más delegaciones se han estado reuniendo entre sí y con sus propios Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS®: 0 miembros, tanto de forma segura presencialmente como en reuniones b4. Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS: 0 c. Total Paid Distribution: 2,366 virtuales participativas, esto último gracias al éxito de nuestro foro en d1. Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies: 0 línea, Chef's Table. Nuestra nueva serie de seminarios web respalda d2. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies: 0 d3. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS: 0 estos esfuerzos para mantenerlos conectado, comprometidos e d4. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail: 110 informados. Y no olviden estar atentos a la programación continua a e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: 110 f. Total Distribution: 2,476 través de nuestro Centro de aprendizaje en línea. g. Copies Not Distributed: 15 Para terminar, quiero recordarles que en ACF estamos aquí para h. Total: 2,491 i. Percent Paid: 95.6% ayudarlos. Nuestra membresía de prueba de 90 días para miembros 16. Electronic Copy Circulation nuevos y nuestro plan de pago flexible han funcionado muy bien. Los Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months a. Paid Electronic Copies: 13,426 invitamos a aprovechar estas alternativas en caso de necesitarlas, y no b. Total Paid Print Copies + Paid Electronic Copies: 16,339 c. Total Print Distribution + Paid Electronic Copies: 16,443 dude en compartir esta información con posibles miembros de ACF. d. Percent Paid: 99.4% También estamos trabajando en el desarrollo de otras oportunidades y 16. Electronic Copy Circulation No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date beneficios exclusivos para nuestros miembros. a. Paid Electronic Copies: 12,810 ¡Feliz primavera y no puedo esperar a verlos a todos de nuevo! b. Total Paid Print Copies + Paid Electronic Copies: 15,406 c. Total Print Distribution + Paid Electronic Copies: 15,511 d. Percent Paid: 99.3% I certify that 50% of all my distributed copies are paid above a nominal price. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and Thomas “Tom” Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties). Alan Sterling, Director of Marketing and Communications Presidente Nacional American Culinary Federation, Inc. American Culinary Federation 18-Dec-20

WEARECHEFS.COM 5 | On the Line |

What’s Cooking on WeAreChefs.com Visit WeAreChefs.com, the official content hub for the American Culinary Federation, to read online exclusive articles, including industry trends, interviews, COVID-19 coverage, recipes and more. Dissecting the Dish In this ongoing series, we take a deep dive into the back stories and preparation methods of prized dishes from different chefs. Recent stories feature a catfish and crab stew developed by Chef Kevin Mitchell, CEC, and inspired by the historic cuisine of the Carolinas, as well as a goat cheese-crusted rack of lamb by Chef Eric Gillish, just in time for the spring. Holiday Meal Planning We’ve got some ideas to help you plan menus for Easter, Mother’s Day, Memorial Day and other upcoming holidays. Plus, catch up on a tutorial by Pastry Chef Will Racin, CEPC, who shared techniques for making molded chocolate truffles with all-natural, add-on flavors for Valentine’s Day. Mini Chef Profiles NCR’s ACF Chef Profile column regularly features member success stories, but there are so many more to share outside of the magazine’s bi-monthly issues. Visit WeAreChefs.com to read more about your fellow members and their work and careers. Ongoing COVID-19 Coverage Even though we’re so over this pandemic, our editorial team will continue to bring you the most up-to-date guidance, information and ideas to help you navigate this challenging time, including how to manage indoor dining restrictions, enhance safety measures and more.

The Culinary Insider, the ACF’s bi-weekly newsletter, offers timely information about events, certification, member discounts, the newest blog posts, competitions, contests and much more. Sign up at acfchefs.org/tci.

Follow the ACF on your favorite social media platforms: @acfchefs

@acfchefs Twitter question of @acf_chefs the month: What is your favorite spring @acfchefs vegetable to work with? Sure, digital is environmentally friendly... American Tweet us your answer using the but paper smells better. Culinary hashtag #ACFasks and we’ll retweet A digital subscription to NCR is included with ACF membership, Federation our favorites. but members can now get a one-year print subscription for just $25! Visit acfchefs.org/ncr to get yours today.

6 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 | News Bites | NEWS BITES

and webinars, and in our online learning center. Visit acfchefs.org/Events to apply to be a part of this exclusive group and give back.

ACFEF Scholarships

Through support from the American Academy of Chefs, the American Culinary Federation Education Foundation (ACFEF) is pleased to offer a limited number of scholarships each year to students. The next scholarship deadline is April 30. Register Now for the ACF Apply at acfchefs.org/Scholarships. National Convention

We are so excited to welcome members back to the ACF 2021 National Convention, held Aug. 2-5, 2021, at the Orlando World Center Marriott in Orlando, Florida. Dates were moved forward by three weeks to allow more time for the COVID-19 vaccine to be distributed nationwide and travel restrictions to be lifted. Expect an exciting lineup of presentations, cooking demos, competitions and more. Save the date for the Board of Governors and American Academy of Chefs Dinner on Aug. 1. Register at www.acfchefs.org/Events.

New Town Hall Meetings

Join us for Town Hall meetings with the ACF candidates for National Office. The Town Hall will include statements from the candidates, followed by a question-and-answer session. Look for the registration link in the upcoming issues of The Culinary Chef & Child Initiative Grants Insider. Dates and details include: Under the Chef & Child Initiative, ACFEF is offering ACF • Thursday, March 4, 7:00 p.m. EST: All Vice Presidents chefs and chapters grant funding to support nutrition outreach • Thursday, March 11, 7:00 p.m. EST: Secretary activities in their communities. Grant deadlines are March 1 and Aug. 31. For more information and to apply, • Thursday, March 18, 7:00 p.m. EST: Treasurer visit acfchefs.org/Partnerships. • Thursday, March 25, 7:00 p.m. EST: President ACF Branded Goods Call for Presenters Show your ACF pride! Visit our new online store to check out Share your expertise! The ACF strives to enrich the culinary items such as shirts, caps, cutting boards, skillets and more, all community through cutting-edge seminars and demonstrations with the ACF logo proudly displayed. Visit acfchefs.org for that highlight the latest cooking trends and topics at ACF events more information and to shop.

WEARECHEFS.COM 7 | News Bites |

time, increase member participation and grow membership. These tools include turnkey chapter websites, platforms for event registration and e-commerce, email communication/ management tips, membership and board management resources, and more. ACF Chicago, ACF Columbus (Ohio) and ACF St. Louis are long-term users of the platform, and others are considering the switch. StarChapter is offering a 20% discount on its one-time set-up fee for chapters with more than 50 members. To learn more, visit starchapter.com.

ACF New Member Webinar

We’re committed to helping our new members get off to a great start. Our newly launched New Member Orientation Webinar helps members take full and immediate advantage of the benefits available to them. The webinar can also be enjoyed by existing members as a refresher. Stay tuned for day and time details on the acfchefs.org homepage. Chef’s Table Chapter Meeting Promotions 90-Day Introductory Offer ACF Chapters now can use Chef’s Table to promote upcoming for First-time ACF Members Chapter Meetings. Benefits of doing so include securing higher attendance; connecting with other ACF members throughout Individuals who have never been a member can now join ACF the region or country; and exposing potential sponsors and for a complimentary 90-day membership to enjoy all of the vendors to a larger audience. Email chapter meeting details to benefits of current members. When the 90-day period ends, new Joe Syrowik, [email protected], to post on the forum. members are invited to continue their ACF membership using the FlexPay option, which allows members to pay their yearly membership over the course of the year. Visit acfchefs.org for a link to the membership offer. The ACF Chapter of Cincinnati — led by board member Chef Nick Forrest, a lamb producer and a Become a Mentor Today! former 4-H advisor — called upon fellow chapter members to purchase hogs from FFA/4-H members More than 150 members have enrolled in Mentor Match, ACF’s showing at the Butler County (Ohio) Fair, after new mentorship program. pandemic shutdowns prevented the children from Enroll now and gain access to the Mentor Match Directory, completing the quality assurance program required where you can find the Mentee who is best suited for you. Your to sell the hogs. Chef Forrest and ACF chefs not only experience in the culinary profession is invaluable, and getting purchased the hogs; they bought them at double the involved is the perfect way to “pay it forward” in appreciation price per pound — and then partnered with a processor for and recognition of those who have helped you along the who donated their processing fee to the 4H program. way. Visit chefs-table.acfchefs.org/home to enroll, or call Joe The carcasses were given to local culinary schools and Syrowik at (904) 484-0210. culinary arts programs, including Butler Tech, Scarlet Oaks, Diamond Oaks and Live Oaks, where ACF chefs and students broke down the meat and donated ACF Partners with StarChapter more than 3,800 pounds of fresh pork to the FreeStore Foodbanks and La Soupe, a food-rescue nonprofit. ACF has collaborated with StarChapter to provide access to a variety of resources intended to help chapter leaders save

8 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 2021 American Academy of Chefs and Honorary AAC Tentative Inductees

The American Academy of Chefs (AAC), otherwise known as ACF’s honor society, represents the highest standards of professionalism in our organization and industry. The Academy’s primary mission is to promote the education of all culinarians through mentorship, student scholarships and grants for professional chefs looking to further their career. We are proud to present our 2021 tentative AAC and Honorary AAC candidates for induction. If there is any reason why you would not agree with these lists, please contact Americo S. DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC, academy chair, [email protected] or Karen Stamper, AAC administrator, [email protected].

Edward Adel, CEC 2021 Honorary American Academy of ACF Greater Kansas City Chefs Association Chefs Tentative Inductees: Sponsored by: Louis Perrotte, CEC, AAC, HOF and James M. Tinkham, CEC, CCA, AAC Christopher Blanchard, CEC Sponsored by: James V. DiMarzio, CEC, AAC Martin A. Gilligan, CEC, CEPC ACF Chefs de Cuisine Association of California Daniel J. Blanchard, CEC Sponsored by: Eric D. Ernest, CEC, CCA, AAC and Eloise Sponsored by: Denise S. Graffeo, CEC, AAC, HOF Fernandez, CEC, CCE, AAC Bertrand O. DeBoutray David A. Marcelli, CCE, CEC, PCC Sponsored by: Reimund D. Pitz, CEC, CCE, AAC, HOF ACF Honolulu Chapter Sponsored by: Stafford T. DeCambra, CEC, CCE, CCA, Thomas P. Ryan, CEC, CCA AAC and Jacqueline Hamilton, CEC, AAC Sponsored by: Elizabeth A. Bergin, HAAC

Vanessa N. Marquis, CEC J. Scott Youngman, CEC ACF Tampa Bay Culinary Association Sponsored by: John J. Hudak, CEC, AAC Sponsored by: Steven Jilleba, CMC, CCE, AAC and Thomas J. Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC

Michael J. Moench, CEC ACF Sarasota Bay Chefs Association Sponsored by: Michael S. Baldwin, CEC, AAC and Brian D. Knecht, CEC, CCA, AAC

Jeffrey A. Quasha, CEC, CCA ACF Chefs of the Low Country Sponsored by: Christopher F. Donato, CEC, AAC and Jeffrey Kraft, CEC, CCA, AAC

Michael R. Thrash, CEC, CCA ACF Tampa Bay Culinary Association Sponsored by: Stephen M. Afflixio, CEC, AAC and Reimund D. Pitz, CEC, CCE, AAC, HOF

WEARECHEFS.COM 9 | Management | MAKE YOUR KITCHEN SMART Back-of-house automation technologies maximize labor and throughput while minimizing costs | By Jody Shee

Imagine a ghost kitchen hub of 16 independent operators, each with their own menus, working from separate kitchens under one roof. A family calls in a single order for dishes from several of the operations. Each outfit prepares its dish, places it on a conveyor belt that runs down the center of the facility, and — despite the varying cook times — all arrive at the end of the belt at the same time, ready for bundling and delivery. This would have been impossible a few years ago, but it’s the reality for Crave Hospitality Group’s Boise, Idaho-based Crave Collective, largely because of its smart backend management program. And it sounds high-tech, but you don’t have to be a “techie” to grasp the value of advanced back-of-house equipment and software automation technology: They can make operations faster and smarter. Plus, many of these new systems offer improved accuracy and consistency with an added layer of monitoring, adjustment and general oversight. KITCHEN UPGRADES BOH automation options are endless. But if you could invest in only one automation upgrade, Jay Bandy (pictured right) — president of Goliath Consulting Group, Atlanta — suggests purchasing a system that ties in food preparation projections with labeling and food safety. “There are several systems out there that incorporate these three components,” he says. A good system indicates how much of any item to prep based on expected volume and product mix. After the food

10 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 is prepped, the same system can print number and variations of items to cook labels indicating who prepped it and at the same time, saving time while when, as well as the expected shelf eliminating the need for other equipment. life. Labeling automation ensures the One of Moeller’s clients, Super label is legible and eliminates human Sandwich in Shelton, Connecticut, miscalculations, enhancing food opened 10 years ago with fryers, a flat-top safety. This type of platform sometimes grill, a two-burner stove, a charbroiler includes Bluetooth cooler and freezer and a convection oven. Since it added monitoring, reporting, and alerting, two combi ovens, the sandwich, soup which also remove human error and and salad concept has eliminated the boost food safety. convection oven, flat-top grill and “QSRs have been using this charbroiler. Because of the oven’s temperature flexibility, the combi oven technology for some time; now does everything — it can make grilled it’s starting to become available to chicken, hardboiled eggs and cookies as independent operators,” Bandy says. well as toast sandwiches and make soup “That’s where tech has gone in 10 years stocks. “And they are looking to add ribs — from the big guys to the smaller guys.” and pizza to the menu,” he says. The oven For their flexibility as well as their has allowed about a one-third reduction monitoring and one-touch cooking in kitchen labor, freeing up existing staff capabilities, combi ovens are the BOH to handle other tasks. automation upgrade Mark Moeller Bandy believes grill station (above) suggests. He is owner of The automation will continue to grow in Recipe of Success, a national food popularity. Case in point: QSR White and restaurant consultancy based in Castle announced plans in a press release Westport, Connecticut. With one type last fall to test Flippy, a grilling-and- of combi, “you can put multiple items in frying robotic kitchen assistant from the chamber at the same time, and when Miso Robotics. you open and close the door, it adjusts the cook time and temperature,” he says. Each AI AND MACHINE LEARNING shelf operates with its own temperature Artificial intelligence (AI) will and humidity controls, allowing any take fryer and grill automation a long

WEARECHEFS.COM 11 | Management |

into account based on such variables as daypart, order velocity or day of the week, for example. The system IGNITE adjusts the expected cook time accordingly. When a customer orders items from various menus, the system computes cook times for each item and projects when the complete order will be ready for delivery or pickup. At the kitchen level, workers see YOUR the order on the screen, but don’t start the preparation until a green button lights up. They push the button as they begin the prep, then push the “complete” button when the item is done, thus allowing the machine to PASSION keep track of actual cook times. The software metes out the start way. For example, Bandy points out a times for each ordered item from each restaurant operation falafel-making machine may have output based on cook times in concert with other ticket items ordered. capacity for 300 pieces an hour, but if The first Crave Collective opened in Boise in October 2020, outfitted with AI capabilities, it can adjust REGISTRATION IS with 11 more planned to open this year. “All our expectations output based on customer counts and have exceeded our goals for attracting higher ticket averages and orders coming in, and thus only make the order frequency,” Wade says. actual number needed. Smart kitchen management software will be a pillar of the AI and machine learning, another NOW OPEN automated kitchen of the future. “You want it to track as much form of robotic processing, which allows data as possible [to] compile sales data, track inventory, store AI systems to continuously “learn” recipes and schedule labor, for example,” says Chef Kevin without being explicitly programmed, Villanueva (above right), R&D chef for San Francisco-based are largely behind the automation system consultancy The Culinary Edge and the firm’s quick-serve used at Crave Collective’s ghost kitchen concept, Starbird Chicken. The software he works with operation. Co-founder and CEO Devin performs all of these tasks, and also helps track ingredient costs Wade (above left) and his team developed per dish. It also evaluates anomalies if the dishes fail to match a proprietary software platform to run and the expected cost, tracking down culprit issues, which may be collate BOH operations for each of the 16 tied to inventory tracking, mix analysis and more. concepts housed in separate kitchen suites ACF National Convention Chef Villanueva admits that much of the current restaurant within the 15,000-square-foot facility. automation is focused on front-of-house, “but for BOH, Each kitchen runs off a kitchen software is getting better and better,” he says, especially for display system or screen that, for starters, online training programs that help cooks learn faster and more forecasts supply and volume needs based efficiently, without language barriers. Orlando World Center Mariott on orders, Wade says. While the system In the end, Crave Collective’s Wade says their BOH is capable of outputting a whole set of automation isn’t designed to replace kitchen workers, but August 2-5, 2021 analytics to help managers, what makes instead to make workers more efficient through space layout and the platform unique during service is organization combined with software, in a way that hasn’t been how the current work order flow ties in done before. Investing in these systems can not only reduce Board of Governors and AAC Dinner with the other restaurant units. inefficiencies; it also can lower costs over the long term. Cook times for each menu item for Jody Shee is a Kauai, Hawaii-based freelance writer and editor on August 1 each unit are input into the system. with more than 20 years of food-writing experience. She blogs at Likely time-fluctuation factors are taken sheefood.com. Visit ACFChefs.org/events today

12 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 IGNITE YOUR PASSION REGISTRATION IS NOW OPEN

ACF National Convention

Orlando World Center Mariott August 2-5, 2021 Board of Governors and AAC Dinner on August 1

Visit ACFChefs.org/events today | Chapter Close-Up |

ACF PITTSBURGH CHAPTER Members of this historical chapter led the creation of the ACF’s first-ever apprenticeship program and ACF Culinary Team USA

The ACF Pittsburgh Chapter has a long and storied history foods. Four years later, Chef Laesecke managed the American dating back to the 1940s and a robust list of alumni, including team that captured all of the competition's top honors. CAP the former ACF national and Pittsburgh chapter presidents chefs went on to compete in multiple domestic and international Chefs Paul Laesecke, AAC, and Ferdinand Metz, CMC, competitions in the late 1960s, earning top prizes each time. Also among other ACF leaders. during this time, Chefs Spielbichler and Metz both earned the The chapter’s story began in April 1944, when 12 Pittsburgh coveted ACF Chef of the Year title. chefs — hoping to recruit young chefs and expand skilled staff Chef Metz — along with Chefs Jack Braun; L. Edwin in the city’s professional kitchens — met at Chef Laesecke’s Brown, chairman of the American Culinary Federation home to discuss ways to grow local interest in the culinary Educational Institute; Chef Jerry Lawrence, apprenticeship arts. In addition to Chef Laesecke, the group included Chefs chairman; and Daniel Przybylek, dean of continuing Abel Bomberault, Lucien Chene, Albert Gasnier, Albert education — formed a partnership with the Community Guilloteau, Peter Massot, Dino Nardi, Edourd Panchard, College of Allegheny County and Dean James Evanko to Otto Spielbichler, William Wagner, Joseph Winkelman and develop the first chef’s apprenticeship program recognized Gaston Zimmerman. On June 24, 1944, the group held its by the U.S. Department of Labor. It served as the model for second meeting at the Schenley Hotel, with interim president subsequent programs throughout the country. Chef Laesecke leading the event, which was attended by 40 This program took shape as a 6,000-hour, three-year, people. By the next Chefs’ Association of Pittsburgh (CAP) on-the-job training program, augmented by 1,000 hours meeting, held at the H.J. Heinz Company in July that year, there of classroom activity that could help students earn both an were more than 100 professionals in attendance. Associate of Science in the Culinary Arts degree and Bureau In 1947, the CAP officially joined the ACF, primarily to of Apprenticeship and Training journeyman’s papers. Chef establish an apprentice training program. In 1949, the chapter Arthur (Art) Inzinga, CCE, CCE, AAC — an award-winning introduced its first training classes at a public trade school ACF Chef; active board member; chairman and former in a joint effort with the Western Pennsylvania Restaurant treasurer; chapter president; and frequent competition coach Association. The CAP was also at the forefront of planning — was one of the first graduates. He was named Apprentice of the ACF’s first national convention, held in 1950 in New York, the Year under the tutelage of former ACF President Richard which helped reunite the ACF and its national affiliate chapters Bosnjak, CEC, AAC, executive chef at the Oakmont Country for the first time since 1941. Club (Plum, Pennsylvania). Chef Inzinga recently returned At that convention, Chef Laesecke was elected president of the to the Community College of Allegheny County as associate ACF, and later helped to renew efforts to establish an honor society professor and culinary program coordinator and was named the for chefs — an idea that had been debated for years. During the first-ever L. Edwin Brown Chef Educator of the Year in 2019. 1955 ACF National Convention, hosted in Pittsburgh, the ACF The nationally recognized apprenticeship program attracted established the American Academy of Chefs, the membership of 218 applicants to its fall 1977 program and graduated many which would eventually include many chapter members. accomplished chefs over the years. These include (among Throughout the 1950s, Chef Laesecke participated in many others) Chef Frank Ruta, Pittsburgh apprenticeship graduate culinary competitions, which led to the formation of the first of ‘78, who was the White House chef for the Carter, Reagan American team to participate in the 1956 International Culinary and Bush, Sr. administrations; Chef Steve Fernald, another Olympics in Frankfurt, Germany. CAP Chefs Laesecke and Pittsburgh apprenticeship graduate, who later became the ACF Spielbichler were chosen to compete as part of the team of four. national apprenticeship director; and Chef Russell Scott, Each team member came home with a gold medal, and the team CMC, CHE, who went on to serve as a team member for the was presented with the highest award for preparation of hot ACF Culinary Team USA.

14 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 In the last 30 years, a Valentine’s Day pastry presentation by Culinary Olympian the organization — now Chef Susan Notter, CEPC. Other educational meetings called the ACF Pittsburgh Chapter (ACFPC) — has grown its included a virtual event with the Culinary Vegetable Institute membership, at one point topping out at 800 members. While at the Chef’s Garden in Huron, Ohio; a presentation from chapter membership has waxed and waned over the years, the Chef Edward Leonard, CMC, executive chef of The Polo chapter retains a respectable roster, including many newcomers, Club of Boca Raton (Florida), about maintaining a healthy thanks to the apprenticeship program and strong relationships brigade system; and some tips from an executive search with student-chefs and up-and-coming chefs. firm about how to prepare resumes, portfolios, and personal ACFPC has also grown its list of National ACF Chefs of websites for executive positions and career growth. the Year: Chefs Scott, Braun and Bosnjak, as well asChefs Through the years, ACFPC has also remained dedicated to Roland Schaeffer, Tim Ryan and Baron Galand, some of raising funds for scholarships and those in need. Last year, the whom served as chapter president at one point, and all of whom chapter recruited personal funds to put toward the Ferdinand have participated in the ACF National and Regional Culinary Metz/ACF Relief Fund for displaced hospitality workers in need. Olympic teams as either team members or coaches. The chapter also partnered with a local food pantry last fall to ACFPC Regional ACF Chefs of the Year have included Chefs donate meals to the community. When tornadoes ransacked Keith Coughenour, CEC, AAC and William Racin, CEPC. Nashville, Tennessee, in 2019, ACFPC chefs raised funds for the Chefs Byron Bardy and Scott are Certified Master Chefs. Many American Culinary Federation Education Foundation (ACFEF) Pittsburgh chapter members have also served as ACF Culinary Disaster Relief Fund Assistance. Annual galas held in the spring Team coaches and captains, including Chef Coughenour, during the last several years before the pandemic have raised executive chef at the premier Duquesne Club in Pittsburgh. money for the William Foust Education Scholarship. He was named captain of the 1992 and 1996 U.S. teams, which Looking forward, Chef Buskey says the chapter remains collectively won three gold and three silver medals in Frankfurt committed to recruiting and training budding chefs. “For us, it’s and Berlin, Germany. Chef Coughenour also served as coach for all about education and bringing up our young chefs,” he says. Team USA until 2003 and was involved in selecting members of “They are the future of our organization, and our industry.” the 2000 and 2004 U.S. Culinary Olympic teams. Chef Buskey also hopes, like many ACF Chefs, to be able Prior to COVID-19, ACFPC hosted regular educational to send members to the ACF National Convention in Orlando, and networking events with a focus on demonstrations and Florida, this summer. He also hopes to bring back the professional development. “We have an ongoing focus on keeping chapter’s annual — and always-anticipated — picnic, which everyone within their certification points,” saysChef Brian functions as both a social outlet and a recruiting element Buskey, current chapter president, and a culinary educator with for potential new members. There were about 150 people in the nonprofit Bidwell Training Center in Pittsburgh. attendance in 2019. By partnering with other ACF chapters in Philadelphia “While many of our members are club and healthcare chefs and Ohio via ACF’s Chef’s Table forum, Chef Buskey was who still have work, so many culinarians in our industry are able to continue meetings virtually last year on Zoom. “We hurting,” Chef Buskey says. “We have lost a lot of restaurants, didn’t miss any meetings this way, and at one point, had 260 and, as an industry, we are trying to rebuild. We’re hoping, members in a meeting,” he says. Most recently, the chapter as a chapter, to be part of those rebuilding efforts and put in hosted a chocolate demonstration by Chef Racin, followed by whatever hands and hours we can to make that happen.”

WEARECHEFS.COM 15 | Main Course |

Much Ado About Meat

Lesser-known cuts bring deliciousness to menus at a lower cost By Amanda Baltazar

Meat has a reputation for being supplier: “That can lead you to what expensive, but it doesn’t have to be you might be able to use, because you that way. In fact, some chefs believe can find out what has high supply and the more economical cuts are the best low demand.” ones. They can be just as tasty and Here are some economical cuts of tender, and some can be prepared meat for building budget-friendly yet in advance, just like other, more beautiful dishes. expensive cuts of meat. On top of that, says Chef Keith Sarasin — BEEF OR PORK CHEEK author of the upcoming “Meat: The AND JOWL Ultimate Cookbook,” and founder of “Jowl is the most flavorful part of a The Farmers Dinner in Milford, New pig by far, but it hasn’t caught on yet,” Hampshire, which hosts dinners in says Chef Sarasin, who likes to braise farm fields — using them helps the it. Both cheek and jowl, he says, are farmer move less-popular product “packed with flavor, which [comes from and honors the animal. He often asks the] muscle and fat. The muscles are farmers which cuts they can’t sell, then long and thin [there], and when you take plans meals around that. the time to braise, those muscles get Chef Adam Moore, corporate chef tender and then shred.” for True Aussie Beef & Lamb, advises He also likes to sous vide beef jowl having quarterly catchups with your “to get a beautiful [result] that resembles

16 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 shredded beef.” He uses it in variations meat works well for pasta dishes, such of carnitas, and likes making tacos with as a braised lamb neck and shoulder braised pork cheek. ragú with pappardelle and shaved In addition, Chef Sarasin likes to use parmesan, he says. pork jowl to make guanciale. “It sounds Chef Sarasin likes to cook lamb fancy, but it’s one of the easiest things to neck in advance, he says, because when do,” he says. He cures the jowl in a 2% it cools, it reabsorbs the liquids it loses brine with some fennel for a couple of during cooking. If he cooks lamb neck in weeks, hangs it for two more, then finely advance, he sears it just before serving. dices it and uses it like pancetta. BEEF CHUCK LAMB NECK Chef Moore likes to use chuck and Lamb neck has many vertebrae and chuck eye roll. These come off the front bones, but also lot of marrow, so it cooks of the animal, where the ribeye begins, beautifully, according to Chef Sarasin. and have good marbling, which “provides To cook it, he sautés mirepoix, wonderful, beefy flavor,” he says. These then deglazes the pan with red wine cuts work well for braising or sous vide and herbs. He adds the lamb neck and cooking, he says, “which allows the enough water to just cover it, and cooks natural collagen and muscle structure it low and slow for about three and a to become very tender and absorb the half hours. During this time, the meat’s fibers tear and become tender, so this flavors of your braising liquid.” He also likes chuck tender, calling it Above from left: Seared filet; Pulled pork jowl, one of the most flavorful parts of a pig, says Chef “an economical cut that resembles a luxury Keith Sarasin. cut.” His favorite method is to sous vide it

WEARECHEFS.COM 17 | Main Course |

for 48 to 72 hours and finish it on the grill. He often serves this over a grain salad. BEEF SIRLOIN CAP OR COULOTTE Beef sirloin cap, also referred to as the “Coulotte,” is a great cut for diners get some fat and some meat. It’s roasting, Chef Moore says. Because it’s nice this way on sandwiches, he adds. a larger cut at 1.5 to 2 pounds, it roasts Chef Moore doesn’t marinate this cut, in about 45 minutes, and, left whole, can “as the beef is already very juicy and tender be nice for family-style presentations. on its own from wet aging. I also find “There’s typically a decent fat cap, which marinades can really affect the natural inherently bastes the cut while it cooks,” structure and texture of meat when used he points out. improperly. Thus, I’d only recommend He’ll also grill it, which is how marinades on poor-quality meat, not it’s typically prepared in Brazilian necessarily ‘economical cuts.’” However, steakhouses. The cooked meat is then cut he adds, rubs or post-cook sauces can add into smaller medallions and seasoned visual appeal and flavor. “[Even] just a simply with salt and pepper. Sometimes, quick hit of citrus is nice to cut through Chef Moore slices it really thinly, so the fatty richness of steak,” he says. Spread from left: Middle Eastern-spiced, slow- LAMB SHOULDER roasted lamb ribs; Pub-style Irish stew with American lamb; Comfort food with a twist: Lamb Lamb shoulder works well for pot pie; Skewered spiced lamb kafta with chilled couscous salad and toasted pita. Photo credits: braising and stewing because it often American Lamb Board. contains the bone, and the lean-to-

18 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 fat ratio is about 75/25, says Chef Mark DeNittis, president of DeNCO Enterprises Special Operations Group and culinary education consultant for the American Lamb Board. Also, it has a lot of collagen, which gelatinizes during cooking, then reabsorbs the liquids and flavors when it’s reheated, “so these dishes are always better the next day,” he says. The collagen also gives the stew a lovely “textural mouthfeel,” he adds. Typically, he simply scores the top fat layer of the shoulder, seasons the shoulder, and roasts it at 450 to 500 degrees F for 20 minutes. He finishes it at a lower temperature for a couple of hours, then finishes it again with high heat to crisp the softened outer layers of meat. The fat, having been rendered away, “leaves an extraordinary crispy and flavorful dining experience.” BEEF SHOULDER CLOD Chef Brian Polcyn, CEC, professor of charcuterie at Schoolcraft College in Michigan and author of “Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing,” is a fan of the economical shoulder clod sub primal of beef, which includes the shoulder center, the teres major, and the top blade (and within this, the flatiron steak). “This cut is tasty because of the intra-muscular fat — the marbling — and it’s a little-known fact that it is the second- most tender cut on the animal, after the tenderloin,” he says. And preparing it is easy, Chef Polycn says — cook it like any steak: grill, roast or pan fry. Serve it with caramelized onions and mushrooms and a red wine demi-glace. But it’s also extremely versatile, he adds, and can be stir-fried or pan roasted, and it takes marinades exceptionally well. For recipes using these cuts, visit WeAreChefs.com.

Amanda Baltazar is a freelance writer in the Pacific Northwest who writes about food, beverages, meat, and plant-based diets.

WEARECHEFS.COM 19 | On the Side |

GOING WILD

An ACF Indigenous chef discusses ways to use game meats

Chef Victoria Wells is a Native American chef based in Manistee, Michigan, and an ACF member who is planning to launch her own catering business. She’s a big fan of venison, she says; it’s a lot cheaper than beef, and has less saturated fat. The parts that tend to get ignored are the rump roast and sirloin, because they can be tough, she says, but she grinds them up and uses them for anything that would traditionally feature ground beef. She also likes to inject the meat with maple and molasses, which tenderizes it and minimizes the "gamey” taste, especially if she smokes it. For smoking wood, her preference is cherry or maple, but oak also works well — pretty much anything that comes from the area the animal lived in, she says. She smokes the meat for six to eight hours.

20 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 | On the Side |

Chef Wells also likes to grill venison, especially the neck and rump. She preps it overnight, marinating the outside and injecting the meat with marinade, too. “This leaves it flavorful on the inside with a slight crust on the outside that cuts back the gamey flavor,” she says. She likes a marinade with plenty of acidity to break down the flavor and the toughness, and grills only to medium to prevent the meat from becoming tough. Chef Wells thinly slices grilled venison and serves it with a wild rice- and-berry dish, or with mashed sweet Opposite: Chef Victoria Wells likes to inject venison with maple and molasses to tenderize it and reduce its gamey flavor; Above, from top to bottom: Venison is prized for its lower costs and fat or red potatoes. “The trick to venison is content compared with beef; Venison works well for grilling, especially the neck and rump parts. serving it with both a sweet and savory side. This allows the true flavor of the meat to shine,” she says. She makes wild- game tacos with any leftovers of the thin- sliced venison. -Amanda Baltazar

WEARECHEFS.COM 21 | Pastry |

BOUNTIFUL BISCUITS With its countless variations, the biscuit offers many dayparting possibilities // By Robert Wemischner

Whether mass produced for chain Family, a bakery café in Los Angeles, restaurants or lovingly made by hand says, “I am not a traditionalist when it at a diner or bakery-café, biscuits are a comes to biscuit making.” She’s a whole- perennial favorite at breakfast, lunch grain enthusiast, so using self-rising or dinner. And while they feature flour is anathema to her. “As a refined ingredients from just five categories and manufactured product, self-rising — salt, flour, leavening, fat and dairy — flour has been stripped of all fiber and variations in those ingredient categories nutritional value,” she says. “It has been vary widely from region to region. rendered flavor neutral — [it’s] a perfect Consider, for example, cathead canvas for butter, lard, or buttermilk, [but biscuits, which are growing in popularity, it] contributes no flavor itself.” according to a recent report from market Diverging from the traditional research firm Datassential. Named American style of biscuits, which calls because of their large size (“as big as a for soft flours, Jullapat sneaks about 10% cat’s head”) and common in many parts fine white cornmeal into the mix. “To me, of the South — particularly in Louisiana using a bit of fine corn flour adds character and Arkansas — die-hard fans of these and texture to the biscuit, making them biscuits swear by White Lily-brand wholesome without compromising their flour (a low-protein flour). And instead quintessential lightness,” she says. “Also, of being rolled and cut, handfuls of the I’m committed to using butter as my fat dough are simply dropped into a cast iron of choice, but the buttermilk is also key. skillet and then popped into the oven. Our biscuits are topped with shredded In other parts of the country — white cheddar and fresh thyme and served where specific strains of wheat and other on their own, and are almost a meal grains are locally available and milled themselves, without a need to turn them nearby — bakers are going hyperlocal into sandwiches. Whole-grain biscuits by using those flours, leading to heartier may feel a degree denser than white-flour and healthier results. Devoted to counterparts, but they’re packed with using heritage grains where possible, flavor, texture and nutrition.” baker Roxana Jullapat, author of Beyond such savory applications, “Mother Grains: Recipes for the Grain the simple addition of sugar transforms Revolution,” and owner of Friends and biscuits into a vehicle for a host of

22 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 desserts featuring seasonal fruit. Year Governor’s Mansion, she chose a blend round, biscuits can be a homespun of lard and butter for her biscuits. ”I liked and relatively easy-to-execute entry on to draw on local products, including dessert menus everywhere; think berry Virginia ham, butter shortcake enhanced with sweetened and honey, to serve crème fraîche whipped cream in spring, with cheddar biscuits,” BISCUITS ARE or topped with stone fruit in the summer. she says. “Biscuits are VERSATILE VESSELS versatile vessels that can " Fat and Dairy feature many amazing THAT CAN FEATURE Fat, the all-important component flavors, whether in the of the recipe, can be anything from biscuit itself or as its MANY AMAZING lard to shortening or butter, or even a accompaniments. At FLAVORS, WHETHER combination. The dairy used in biscuit the Mansion, we made a making varies widely, too; bakers can sundried tomato biscuit, IN THE BISCUIT choose from milk, buttermilk or heavy which straddled breakfast cream, as well as sour cream, yogurt, and lunch.” ITSELF OR AS ITS crème fraîche, or a combination of any She also likes to play ACCOMPANIMENTS. of these to achieve richness, a pleasingly with different types tart edge or a tenderness of crumb. of dairy in her biscuit - PASTRY CHEF STEPHANIE CHARNS" When ACF member and pastry Chef recipes, including “goat cheese, Stephanie Charns (now R&D Chef which lends a tang to the final product.” for Bimbo Bakers USA, a multinational Savory add-ins like these abound when baking and snacks company) was it comes to biscuits. “Biscuits don’t have executive pastry chef at the Virginia to be sweet; they can incorporate sweet,

WEARECHEFS.COM 23 | Pastry |

sour and salty in one delicious morsel,” breakfast tables in many parts of the U.S. says Chef Charns, who notes one of the and around the world. Oftentimes, they most popular versions on her former are served as a simple accompaniment to restaurant’s menu paired the flavor bacon and eggs, with just a pat of butter profile of a cinnamon roll (cinnamon and a touch of honey. In other cases, and sugar) with sundried tomato spread they are smothered in a gravy made from for a sweet and salty accompaniment to bacon drippings, flour and milk. poached eggs and ham. And then there are the endless applications of the biscuit as a Biscuit-Making sandwich base. From egg-and-meat Methods (sausage, bacon or ham) breakfast The right way to make a biscuit is sandwiches, to pulled pork and fried also a matter of opinion. Some swear by chicken sandwiches, these portable meals have been a popular menu item chilling the fat and cutting it into the dry nationally in the fast-food business for ingredients. Others grate the butter and years. Now, independent restaurants then freeze it, lightly mixing it into the are jumping on the bandwagon. While dry ingredients to ensure a flaky product. the popularity of biscuit sandwiches And then there’s the question of whether peaked in 2016 and waned slightly the butter should be reduced to pea-sized after that, Datassential research shows bits or left as larger flakes. they have maintained steady growth Once the dough is gently put in menu proliferation: about 1% each together, some wonder: Should it be year, for a total of just under a 6% folded upon itself at least three times to increase over the last four years. In build layers and strengthen the gluten, foodservice operations where staff is so the biscuit holds its shape? Some limited and baking prowess might be in bakers go a different route altogether and short supply, offering a personalized, flatten the dough into a rectangle, then homemade biscuit item on the menu roll it up, jelly roll-style, to create a spiral can become a draw for an operation layering that offers enhanced texture and that prides itself on homestyle foods. Instagram-worthy visual aesthetics in the Whether you’re serving them to-go finished product. Biscuit dough can also or for dine-in at your place of operation, be shaped into dumplings and plopped biscuits offer not just a comforting option into chicken broth as just one of many for diners, thanks to their flaky, buttery, non-baked, savory applications. melt-in-your mouth appeal; as a timeless Emily Elyse Miller, author of staple ripe for reinvention, they also offer “Breakfast: The Cookbook,” includes a blank canvas for creativity, no matter in her book two basic but iconic the time of day. biscuit-preparation methods. One uses Robert Wemischner is a longtime buttermilk, and is mixed like a pie dough instructor of professional baking at Los and cut using a round cookie cutter. Angeles Trade-Technical College and the author of four books, including “The The other relies on full-fat milk and is Dessert Architect.” soft enough to drop onto a sheet pan, leading to a craggy exterior — perfect for cradling lots of butter and honey. Between the Biscuit Biscuits symbolize comfort and tradition and appear in some form at

24 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 White Cheddar Cornmeal Biscuits

(Reprinted with permission from “Mother Grains: Recipes for the Grain Revolution." Copyright © 2021 by Roxana Jullapat. Photography copyright © 2021 by Kristin Teig. Published by W. W. Norton & Company. All rights reserved.)

Makes 8 to 10 biscuits 2 cups (280 g) all-purpose flour 2 cups (320 g) fine white cornmeal 2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder 1½ teaspoons baking soda 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 cup (2 sticks/225 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-​inch cubes 1½ cups (360 ml) buttermilk 4 ounces (115 g) white cheddar, grated 2 tablespoons thyme leaves

Method: 1. Place an oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 350ºF. 2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 3. Sift the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into a mixing bowl. Toss the cold butter cubes into the dry ingredients. Quickly cut the cold butter cubes into the dry ingredients by progressively pinching them with your fingertips until the mixture resembles a coarse meal with hazelnut-size crumbs. 4. Make a well in the center with your hands. Pour the buttermilk into the well in the dry ingredients. Toss gently with both hands (as if tossing a salad) until a shaggy dough forms. Transfer to a floured surface and shape by hand into a 10-by-5-inch rectangle about 1 inch thick. Fold the dough onto itself as if you were closing a book (this step helps create layers) and flatten by hand or with a rolling pin until the rectangle is 1 inch thick. Cut with a 2½-inch plain biscuit cutter. 5. Gather scraps to cut a few additional biscuits. Discard anything left afterward; the dough is overworked and will yield tough biscuits. Transfer the biscuits to the prepared baking sheet. Top each biscuit with white cheddar and a sprinkle of thyme. 6. Bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the baking sheet and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the biscuits are golden. Rotating the sheet halfway through the baking process will ensure that the biscuits bake evenly. The biscuits are delicious 20 to 30 minutes after coming out of the oven, but they will reheat very well the next day. Store leftovers in an airtight container and reheat at 350ºF for 6 to 8 minutes.

WEARECHEFS.COM 25 | Classical vs. Modern |

Classical Chef Lance Cook, CEC, CCA — executive chef at Hammock Dunes Club in Palm Coast, Florida — and Chef Kirk Kief, CEC, CCA, CPC — executive chef and culinary instructor at Reality House in Daytona Beach, Florida, founding president of the ACF Mid Florida East Coast Chapter — partnered up for a study of the Italian-American comfort food manicotti (“little sleeve,” in Italian), with photos by Chef Kief. For the classical version, Chef Cook starts by making an easy pasta dough based on a recipe from Chef Thomas Keller’s acclaimed restaurant The French Laundry in Napa Valley, California. After gently kneading the dough for about 15 minutes to develop elasticity, Chef Cook passes the dough through a pasta machine and then cuts it into 5-inch-by-4-inch pieces. The “little sleeves” are then stuffed with a whole-milk ricotta, Parmesan, and herb filling; rolled up; and layered with tomato sauce in a baking dish. Topped with shredded mozzarella and Parmesan cheese, the dish is baked for about 25 minutes covered, and then finished, uncovered, for about five minutes, or until the cheese is bubbling — so simple, yet so comforting during these crazy times. The slow-simmered tomato sauce used in the recipe combines carrot and just a hint of sugar for a little extra sweetness against the salty Parmesan.

26 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 Modern To make the dough for a plant-based, modern manicotti that is dairy- and egg-free, Chef Kief reaches for silken tofu and a little turmeric, adding red bell pepper powder or spinach-and-leek powder to make the dough more colorful as well as vitamin-enhanced. To make the vegan-friendly cheese topping, he soaks raw cashews for a few hours or overnight, then blends the softened nuts with nutritional yeast and plant milk to recreate the umami flavor of cheese. For the plant-rich “ricotta” filling, he uses tahini, nutritional yeast, firm tofu, fresh spinach and basil. A simple tomato sauce, spiked with a pinch of red pepper flakes, rounds out the dish. “I love Italian cuisine, and this is one of those Italian comfort foods that is easy to adapt, easy to prepare and very cost-effective, and still packs in all the flavors that we love,” Chef Kief says. “I recently converted to a whole-food, plant-based diet, primarily for health reasons. I have lost weight, dropped my cholesterol by 50 points, and feel better and more energetic than I have in years. There are several restaurants that I no longer visit due to a lack of choices like these. Restaurants that do not offer plant-based alternatives are needlessly losing business, when it is so easy and cost-effective to keep those dining dollars in their cash registers. There is no dairy or egg used in this [modern manicotti] dish, but it is still packed with flavor.” See the classical and modern recipes, as well as more photos, at wearechefs.com.

WEARECHEFS.COM 27

REGIONAL AMERICAN CUISINE

The rich diversity of our backgrounds, traditions and ingredients from coast to coast define our culinary culture

s ACF chefs and educators, our culinary fundamentals stem from classical French instruction, from knife cuts to soup- and A sauce-making. What’s more exciting to see, though, is how these fundamentals intersect with, and are transformed by, America’s culinary traditions, native ingredients and diverse methods of cookery — from region to region, city to city, town to town, person to person. This year, the ACF is looking inward, taking a deep dive into our past, our present and our future. We’re returning to our roots, and really examining what makes regional American cuisines so special — because by learning about others’ culinary traditions, practices and prized ingredients, we can become better cooks ourselves. So expect to see more stories throughout the year about cooking in different parts of the country. As a start, we go from the West, where we explore the cuisines of Arizona and Colorado, to the South, where we learn about the differences between Creole and Cajun cuisine. Read on, and enjoy. | Regional American Cuisine |

Sonoran Swoon Rooted in history, Arizona’s cuisine is built on the desert By Kelsey Casselbury If you ask someone to name the top culinary cities in the U.S., the responses are predictable: New York City (obviously), Chicago (naturally) and New Orleans (of course), to name a few. Culinarians will likely pick out additional smaller but thriving destinations: Charleston, South Carolina; Austin, Texas; or Savannah, Georgia. However, you’re unlikely to find a city in Arizona in the rankings — yet, in 2015, the southern metropolis of Tucson, with its population of around 550,000, was the first American city to be named a “City of Gastronomy” by UNESCO. The criteria to earn this designation require an abundance of local ingredients used in traditional cooking; a vibrant gastronomy community with numerous traditional restaurants and/or chefs; and local know-how of traditional culinary practices and methods of cooking that have survived technological cowboy cuisine as advancement, among other benchmarks. part of the culinary Arizona’s cuisine — often termed “Sonoran” after landscape. the desert that covers one-third of the state, including (Students in Tucson — doesn’t have the national renown of Arizona are still California’s coastal fare to the west or Tex-Mex cuisine taught “the five to the east. However, “there is a unique intersection of Cs” of Arizona’s food culture in Arizona that highlights Native American, economy; cattle is Mexican and American cuisines,” notes Chef Dina one of them.) Altieri, CEC, CCE, CHE (above), director of culinary Indeed, Arizona’s culinary traditions were firmly established enterprises for UMOM New Day Centers in Phoenix and by the time it became the last contiguous state to be admitted to president of ACF Chefs Association of Arizona. the Union on Feb. 14, 1912. More than a century later, modern- The state’s rich culinary culture has been built up, day chefs are still deriving inspiration from that alimentary piece by piece, over thousands of years of history. Its history to build a culinary scene, both in Tucson and in other foundation rests on the ingredients that thrive in the parts of the state, that is worthy of international attention. dry, hot desert and the traditions of the Native American tribes who have lived — and still live — there. Sonoran From Classic … cuisine has also collected impressions of those who came Spanish, Mexicans and 19th century ranchers may have later, such as the Spanish, who arrived with Marcos de influenced Arizona’s cuisine, but if you want to get to its heart, Niza in the mid-1500s. It’s influenced by Mexico, thanks you must focus on the land. “True Southwestern cuisine, to not only to its close proximity to the country, but also me, is looking at these foods that the desert has provided ... because the land was part of Mexico in the early 1800s. A the food that people have been enjoying here for hundreds of half-century later, ranching took off, cementing beef and years,” says Chef Danielle Leoni (opposite), executive chef of

30 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 Above: Kampachi crudo by Chef Danielle Leoni.

the chiltepin, which is native to Arizona and Mexico. A member of her kitchen staff brought it in and, using a hand-carved chiltepin grinder, Chef Altieri crushed The Breadfruit & Rum Bar in Phoenix. She focuses the peppers and added the powder to menudo. “What a on three ingredients: corn, beans and squash, which special little chile!” Altieri commented. are collectively known as “the Three Sisters” and have been a staple of the state’s agriculture as far back ... To Contemporary as 7000 BCE. While modern chefs may utilize an When a chef focuses solely on classic, traditional assortment of corns, including the sweet yellow and dishes and ingredients, there’s always a risk of developing white varieties, the type traditionally grown by Native a stale menu. Chef Altieri encourages chefs to showcase Americans is higher in protein, a bit nutty and — most their creativity by modernizing those classics. notably — blue in color. “Focus on one or two distinctive ingredients and Those three ingredients, although staples, aren’t the build the flavor profile from there,” she advises. “For only foods that the desert proffers a chef. “There is so example, consider creating a dish with tepary beans much to learn about indigenous ingredients in Arizona and pickled green chiltepins. Additionally, Mexican such as cactus, wild herbs, seeds, chiles, mesquite and specialties, such as tacos, tamales and pozole, are blue corn,” Chef Altieri says. “The foods that are growing celebrated on menus in the region, but switching wild here are truly unique and amazing.” up the classic garnishes, highlighting hyper-local Chef Altieri’s favorite type of chile — a ingredients, or bringing in new flavors can modernize predominant ingredient in Southwestern dishes — is these traditional dishes.”

WEARECHEFS.COM 31 | Regional American Cuisine |

maybe roasted or even smoked to give them a charred flavor. No matter what the final dish looks like, Chef Leoni, who always has sustainability top of mind, is committed to cooking with local and seasonal ingredients as well as respecting the traditions of the Arizonans who came before her. “I take a step back and take the time to think about and read about the people who were here way before us,” she says. “Those were the people who enabled us to be here today, and enabled this Southwestern culture to exist.”

Kelsey Casselbury is a freelance writer, editor and designer who grew up in Arizona but now lives near near Annapolis, Maryland.

These days, Arizona’s cuisine is continually affected by those who have migrated to the state over the past century. Colorado Cuisine According to data from the U.S. Census Bureau’s 2017 American A land-to-table approach Community Survey, only 23% of adults 25 years and older By Jennifer Olvera currently living in Arizona were born in the state. Additional data from the Cencus Bureau released in 2018 showed that Arizona Despite its dry climate and brief summer season, has taken in 2.2 million new residents from other states since Colorado’s culinary prowess shines. Whether it’s the Palisade 2010, while losing 1.7 million to other states during that time. peaches that grow on the Western Slope; the wild turkeys, “I don’t think that we as Americans take enough time to which were domesticated by the ancestral Puebloans; or the understand the culture that we reside in,” Chef Leoni says. “In melons of Rocky Ford, the state’s food history — and its bold, Arizona, most of us are transplants. If I wasn’t a chef, I probably local flavors — run deep. wouldn’t know anything about Southwestern cuisine.” While these ingredients are native to the state, Chef Leoni moved to Arizona when she was a teenager, but immigrants added to Colorado’s food history. From at Breadfruit & Rum, she takes her passion for Southwestern the late 1880s to the early 1900s, German-Russian cuisine and intersects it with her passion for Jamaican food. farm laborers brought their sugar beet expertise to the She has all sorts of ideas swirling around in her head for fields of Colorado. Japanese immigrants followed suit; potential Jamaican-Southwestern culinary marriages, starting the Bromley/Koizuma Hishinuma Farm in Brighton with a version of Jamaican rice and peas that uses a native — listed on the National Register of Historic Places Southwestern bean, such as tepary. Then, “in Jamaica, spice is — stands as a reminder of their role in the once- king, and anyone who thinks about Southwestern food is going flourishing beet industry. to think about chiles,” she muses. “We’re going to give that chile Naturally, agriculture didn’t stop there. Colorado’s experience, sourced from local farmers. It [might not be] just a sun-drenched San Luis Valley in the south-central hatch chile; it could be a red serrano.” part of the state remains one of the most significant Or, perhaps, she’ll braise a beef brisket from a local rancher potato-growing regions in the U.S., the result of land in northern Arizona with spicy chiles. “It’s what you might grants offered in what was then northern Mexico. Love think of as cowboy food, but it [will have] this Jamaican mushrooms? Between 2,000 and 3,000 varieties are overtone to it by adding Jamaican allspice,” Chef Leoni says. grown in the state; the forests near Telluride are stippled “We really like to put a lot of vegetables in [our food] — with varieties from porcinis to chanterelles. zucchini or summer squash, or acorn or butternut squash,” The list, as they say, goes on and on.

32 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 and Texas. “If I were to choose five words that embody Colorado’s culinary [influences], they’d be [green] chile, smoke, innovative, ranch, and local,” says Chef Matthew Richardson, CEC, executive chef of Cheyenne Mountain Country Club in Colorado Springs. “Mountain air, epic views and wildlife inform my cuisine.” His farm-to-table menu is a showcase of the state’s fresh, local ingredients. “As for flavoring and seasonings, Colorado — not surprisingly — goes in on big flavors,” he notes. “So you can expect a lot of spice rubs and smoked meat.”

An Outdoorsy Influence Long before “farm to table” became a buzzword, local Native Americans foraged the land for survival. It’s that spear-to-fire approach that laid the groundwork for one of Colorado’s most beloved pastimes: hunting. Though it was born from necessity, Left: Chef John Folse‘s Eggs à la Crème (credit: Ron Manville); Right: Pork the time-honored sport is more popular cracklins at Toups‘ Meatery in New Orleans (credit: Denny Culbert). than ever. In 2019, Colorado Parks and Wildlife saw a 20% increase in hunting and fishing license revenue, due to a change that simplified the The Ultimate in Colorado Fare process of procuring big-game licenses. Chef Richardson said while it’s hard to distill Colorado Not surprisingly, game is featured prominently on cuisine into a single dish, he considers elk the state’s fine-dining tables statewide. That includes at Denver’s quintessential ingredient, noting its rich gaminess pairs oldest surviving eatery: the taxidermy-trimmed perfectly with fruit — berries in particular. At Cheyenne Buckhorn Exchange, which dates back to 1893. In Mountain Country Club, Chef Richardson’s elk chops are addition to the ubiquitous Rocky Mountain oysters graced with blackberry-Cabernet sauce, and served alongside (which, of course, aren’t oysters at all), you’ll find smoked bison sausage atop a bed of red chile polenta and brioche bread pudding dotted with walnuts, dried cherries and boneless rattlesnake marinated in red chile and lime. It’s green chile. served atop a chipotle queso dip, with tortilla chips. Needless to say, Chef Richardson is in good company Fare from the “Centennial State” takes its cues with his love for elk. Whether it’s the blackberry elk filet with from surrounding states like New Mexico, California local Jumpin’ Good goat cheese-farro risotto at Hearthstone

WEARECHEFS.COM 33 | Regional American Cuisine |

Restaurant in Breckenridge; Breckenridge’s Briar Rose Chophouse & Saloon, where elk medallions are offset by mushroom demiglace; or The Fort Restaurant in Morrison, which serves a duo of four-ounce, grilled, bone-in elk chops with wild huckleberry preserves, there is a common theme: Big game reigns, and inky berries provide a vibrant, silky foil that pairs exceptionally well with it. Of course, it’s not only the fine-dining establishments that are in the know. Chef and “Colorado sausage czar” Jim Pittenger of Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs left an indelible mark on the Denver street-food scene with his elk-jalapeno-cheddar sausage, which was topping of green onions and parsley, nowadays — because embellished with cream cheese and crowned with soda- of the blending of cultures and cuisines — you can’t always sweated onions — so much so that the dish earned him use those markers to definitively identify a Cajun dish. Plus, many food TV appearances, including on Chef Anthony Creole cuisine also uses the “holy trinity” in many of its Bourdain’s show, “No Reservations.” dishes. Confused yet? From four-star affairs to street eats, from the fields and orchards, it’s impossible to deny that sense of place plays a Modern Cajun and Creole Cuisine big role in Colorado cooking. “It’s that rustic, sort of upscale, The days of “proper Cajun” and “proper Creole” are Rocky-Mountain-cabin cuisine that we’re known for,” Chef waning, according to Chef Isaac Toups, owner of Toups’ Richardson concludes. Meatery in New Orleans. While he does prepare straight Jennifer Olvera is a cookbook author and travel writer who is long been Cajun dishes, such as boudin, cracklins, jambalaya, dirty drawn to regional cuisine. She recently returned from an epic, food-filled adventure through Colorado, Utah and Arizona. rice and Cajun (versus Creole) gumbo, Chef Toups also integrates other cuisines into his dishes. “There’s more crossover nowadays,” he says. “I don’t follow a lot of rules Defining Cajun and in my restaurant. I also use some Spanish, Mexican and Creole Cuisine Vietnamese techniques. I’m always branching out.” Two chefs guide us through the intricacies While many people associate Cajun cuisine with spiciness, history tells us that the Cajuns (or Acadians, of Louisiana’s most famous cuisines when they first arrived in Louisiana — more on that By Liz Barrett Foster later) ate simple food that used minimal ingredients. A visit to New Orleans is never complete without a sampling of Today, Cajuns still prefer to use simple ingredients and a its unforgettable cuisine. Walk into any restaurant in the Big Easy, limited number of spices, allowing the proteins in their and you can choose from a wide array of entrees that originated dishes to flavor the entrees. It’s within Creole dishes that in the area: turtle soup, boudin, gumbo, blackened shrimp. But if you’ll find longer, more sophisticated lists of ingredients, your goal is to figure out which dishes are “authentically” Cajun or with a stronger focus on herbs. “authentically” Creole, it may be a long night. Toups suggests rather than focusing on what’s While it’s true that Cajun cuisine will almost always feature the “proper,” look at the ingredients you have on hand and “holy trinity” of white onion, green pepper and celery, and a final be open-minded. “Feel free to throw in some ingredients

34 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 from your own background,” he says. “Cajun food is very forgiving. If you don’t have bell peppers, use poblanos; if you don’t have onions, use leeks. Experiment and go bold with your flavors, and you’ll be all right.” Today, Chef John Folse, CEC, AAC, chef and author of “The Encyclopedia of Cajun & Creole Cuisine,” believes Cajun food may be more sought-after than Creole because of the amount of publicity surrounding it. And, while many may believe you can separate Cajun and Creole by looking to see if there are tomatoes in the dish, Chef Folse says that’s largely a myth. “Instead, look at opulence versus simplicity,” he says. “Creole tends Opposite: Coconut panna cotta with hibiscus eau de vie, ginger to be a classier cuisine, using more meringue and beetroot cake by Chef Danielle Leoni; Above: Jerk shrimp with Southern-style johnnycakes in mango habanero sauce. tomato cookery and more of the world’s spices to enhance the final dish, while Cajun cuisine is simpler.” The Beginning culture introduced exciting new spices to the area that In the late 1700s, French settlers (known as Acadians) soon became available in the local markets. Chef Folse arrived in Louisiana after being exiled from Nova Scotia by the says that when the various Creoles combined their British, settling in the swamplands of Louisiana. The Acadian collective knowledge of cooking and spices, they ended culture gradually transitioned into the Cajun culture after the up with much more sophisticated recipes; dishes such French-Canadian settlers were introduced to a plethora of new as Oysters Rockefeller, Creole chicken fricassee and ingredients from not only Louisiana, but also the Gulf of Mexico shrimp Creole all come to mind. “Once Cajuns got into and the Mississippi River. “The cuisine of the Acadians, which the city, we started to see more spices show up in Cajun was traditionally very simple and seafood-based, grew in flavor pots,” he says, noting that Creoles primarily lived in the tremendously when they started to co-mingle with others who city and Cajuns in the outskirts, but “both influenced the had settled in the area,” Chef Folse says. “The swamp floor was cuisine of our city tremendously.” the Acadians’ pantry; they cooked one-pot, family-style, stick-to- Starting in the 1980s, Cajun and Creole cuisine both your-ribs stews with wild game and rice.” Instead of being spicy, arrived in the culinary spotlight when chefs such as Paul Chef Folse says, the cuisine in those early days was flavored Prudhomme, Emeril Lagasse and Susan Spicer entered naturally with smoke and common herbs, such as bay leaves. the picture. Dozens of world-renowned chefs now call New Orleans home, and the city remains a bucket-list Blending Cultures culinary destination for thousands of hungry travelers Most people living in New Orleans in the 1700s were looking to experience a taste of these famous cuisines. referred to as “Creole,” a term that encompassed anyone from Liz Barrett Foster is an award-winning B2B journalist, online food the descendants of the French colonists who founded the city in writer and editor of EatLikeaWriter.com, living in Mississippi. 1718 to the children of the first Africans in Louisiana. Because Creoles were a blend of so many backgrounds — including French, Spanish, Italian, African and Native American — each

WEARECHEFS.COM 35 | Pandemic Pop-Ups |

Pandemic POP-UPS

Chefs are trying new concept- and menu- testing tricks to make ends meet during a challenging time // By Samantha Lande

op-ups are a great way to road test possible new concepts or Pmenus. While making any pivot can feel daunting, pop-ups during a pandemic are an even heavier lift. Yet — faced with never-before-seen challenges — many chefs are throwing out a lifesaver for their business by trying a new concept or revamping a current one to meet state guidelines for COVID-19. We spoke with a few chefs who have been down this road to learn their suggestions for popping up new concepts. STAYING TRUE TO YOUR SOUL Chef Yia Vang is no stranger to pop-ups. He successfully hosted his pop-up restaurant, Union Hmong Kitchen, for the past few years at different locations in Minnesota before preparing to open his first brick-and-mortar concept, Vinai, this year. “The funny thing is, we were often looked at as the little guys [because we didn’t have] a brick-and-mortar [location], and now we are looked to for our expertise [with pop-ups],” says Vang, who named Vinai after the refugee camp he grew up in — located in present-day Laos — after his family fled the Vietnam War and violence against the Hmong people. At one point, Chef Vang’s pop-up took shape as a food trailer parked at Sociable Cider Werks, a cider brewery in Minneapolis. During the COVID-19 pandemic, when indoor Chef Yia Vang, Union Hmong Kitchen and Vinai. dining closed and it came time to shift entirely to carryout, Chef Vang knew he needed to remain true to the cuisine of

36 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 his home country of Laos and his Hmong background, and took the time to truly evaluate the meaning of his food. “I could have pivoted to burgers and tater tots, but I knew that wasn’t who I was as a chef,” he says. He encourages chefs to look inward when popping up another concept: “Is the food you make about a certain space and ambiance? How can we translate all of that into the food that we are having people come to Chef Genevieve Vang, Bangkok 96 Street Food. pick up?” That means thinking about every detail of the meal, not just the food: the packaging, the plating, how well it travels or reheats, and more. Chef Vang took a “deeper dive into his own culture” and decided that family meals most closely reflected the Hmong-Laotian ideology. “Our people will take care of each other, no matter what happens,” he says, thinking about how, while they were living in Laos, his mom would With all of the new things to worry about, she found it always have more than enough food on the table for guests was essential to change in other ways, especially with a 75% to take for what often was a half-day walk home. The four decrease in her staffing. Chef Vang asked herself, “What elements that were always on the table — protein, rice, can we do to simplify cooking in this small kitchen, and vegetables and hot sauce — are the backbone of his family how can we make things more efficient, even if it means we meals at Union Hmong kitchen. Of course, “doggy bags” pay a little more to stress less?” For Chef Vang, that meant will be provided for any leftovers. investing in pre-chopped vegetables, or trying to use a smaller ingredient list across all dishes, for example. NARROWING THE SCOPE If the ghost kitchen proves successful, she may When Chef Genevieve Vang (no relation to Chef Yia eventually open another one and rent out the space to Vang) was forced to shut down her restaurant Bangkok other vendors, or keep running both the ghost kitchen and 96 — located in the suburbs of Detroit — it was an easy food stall simultaneously. “The future is challenging; it’s pivot to takeout, which they had always done. But her newer important to keep thinking outside the box,” she says. location, Bangkok 96 Street Food, was housed in a popular new food hall, Detroit Shipping Company, in an area that REVAMPING YOUR CURRENT SPACE was very much destination dining in the heart of downtown. Many chefs right now are left with large, empty spaces With forced shut-downs by the state, Chef Vang decided to that can’t be used for their intended purpose, as is the turn her food hall stall into a ghost kitchen. case with Chef Mark Woinoski, CEC, CCA, executive She “put the panic and worry aside,” and started chef at the West Point Club, located on the U.S. Military intense research on how to open and operate a Academy campus in West Point, New York. ghost kitchen. “I had to take a different approach — His day-to-day usually consisted of catering or [considering] what packaging would keep my food fresh lavish events at the club, which all came to a halt for 45 minutes or more, [for example] — and I had to in March 2020, resulting in a loss of $5 million in really refine my menu without losing the soul of my revenues for the club. “I really missed fine dining,” says food,” she says. Chef Woinoski, who decided to temporarily turn the

WEARECHEFS.COM 37 | Pandemic Pop-Ups |

unused ballroom into a fine-dining restaurant to give the military officers and students the opportunity to A series of treats from Sugargoat, a pop-up bakery from Chef Stephanie Izard, where people can experience something different. “The grab pastries that feature innovative flavors. closest fine-dining restaurant is over an hour away,” he says. “This gives people a chance to have ‘date night’ and experience like pork shank or goat tacos to ship nationally, so people something other than takeout pizza.” Takeout menus across the country could cook her food at home. have included everything from fried oysters to bleu cheese-crusted filet and wine to go. AVOID COMPLACENCY Chef Stephanie Izard, chef/proprietor of Girl & The With many restaurants across the country shifting to Goat, Little Goat, and Duck Duck Goat in Chicago, has takeout and small businesses clamoring for support, it’s always had packed dining rooms in the past, but with the city’s restrictions due to the pandemic, she started to critical to stay focused. “It’s really important our to-go hits rethink her spaces. Inside her Little Goat Diner, which is the mark. We can’t be lazy about that,” says Chef Yia Vang, currently only open for to-go orders, she popped up a new emphasizing customers can truly see a difference. “Taking bakery concept called Sugargoat, where people can grab care of our customers is still key — and takeout right now pastries with innovative flavors, including one that tastes is the only way we can still communicate with people.” like French fries dipped in milkshakes. On that note, at a time when restaurant workers are “This past spring, I baked more than I have in years. often feeling defeated or afraid for their health, Chef Vang It’s such a comforting form of cooking,” Chef Izard says. also thinks it’s key to communicate with his staff often. “Faith [Taheny, Little Goat’s sous chef] and I started to “It’s important to keep iterating that we will take care think of all of our favorite childhood flavor combinations.” of each other and our guests,” he says. “We have to keep Sugargoat offerings include cakes, cupcakes, cookies, pies moving forward.” and ice cream. Samantha Lande is a freelance writer based in Chicago. Her And with a robust catering team already in place, it work has appeared in Food Network, AllRecipes, Real Simple, was a no-brainer for her to also shift into creating meal kits and other local and national publications.

38 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 Chef Yia Vang’s Top Tips for Planning and Perfecting Pop-Ups Pop-up veteran Chef Yia Vang — founder of Hmong Union Kitchen, which began as a series of pop-up dinners throughout Minnesota — offers his tips on how to leverage new or temporary concepts to set yourself up for future success. Keep your menu small. “Don’t try to to make money. When considering your impress people and overextend yourself. team, it’s better to look to a smaller, more Keep it delicious, simple and small.” efficient crew.”

Content, content, content. “Social media Put your ego aside. “These are strange is your only way to communicate with times, and now is not the time to be above people right now, so make sure your dishes the food you make. I don’t like that we have soul and a story to them,” and post have to do take-home meal kits, but the about that story on social media. “Anyone Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s and everyone is making tacos; what is the Eve kits are actually what is keeping us in reason you are? I recommend finding a business.” rhythm for posting. We will usually do one post mid-week, and then one the day of Throw everything you know out the [the pop-up] to remind people.” window. “Let’s not pretend we know what projections are going to look like. Be Labor is key. “It’s exciting to have a big honest: This is a weird time where we don’t team, but at the end of the day, you need know what’s happening.” Cuisine from Union Hmong Kitchen, a pop- up restaurant in Minnesota.

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WEARECHEFS.COM 39 | ACF Chef Profile |

CHEF EVA BARRIOS, CEC Executive Chef, Royal Oaks Country Club, Houston

By Amelia Levin

Chef Eva Barrios, CEC, is the embodiment of an ACF success story. She came to the a job at the Sea Island Resort in Sea U.S. at age 18 from Venezuela, not knowing the language and on track to become an Island, Georgia — but was not initially engineer. Now, at just 37 years old, she has garnered numerous competition medals, planning on going the culinary route. completed an apprenticeship, and risen through the culinary ranks to become executive “I never even thought about cooking chef of the Royal Oaks Country Club, a country club and subdivision in Houston. on a more professional level, but my Then, last March — just two days into her shiny new job — she faced an chef at the time — Sous Chef Linda unexpected challenge: the pandemic. Perhaps because residents can’t or don’t want to Mortensen from Denmark — was the venture into the world as the pandemic lingers, they’ve been relying on Royal Oak’s one who made me really appreciate foodservice amenities more than in the past. cooking as a craft, and the creativity and “From what I was told, it was busy before the pandemic, but now, we’ve been very artistic expression the career [offered],” busy every day, and we’re busier in different ways than in the past,” she says. she says. “I started to take the idea of A year ago, when the pandemic caused a complete shutdown of indoor dining becoming a chef very seriously.” in Houston from March through September, Chef Barrios didn’t have the luxury to Around that time, when she began ease into her new role and “observe how things are done,” as she says her mentors had planning to move to Houston to go to encouraged. Rather, she had to spring into immediate action, redeveloping her menus culinary school, Executive Chef Todd into takeout family meals and expanding the selection of a la carte items that would Rogers at Sea Island Resort suggested travel well. reaching out to Chef Fritz Gitschner, Chef Barrios was “lucky” in that she didn’t have to let any staff members go, but CMC, for a job at the Houston Country that didn’t mean she got a break; determined to serve her membership and keep things Club. “[Chef Gitschner] offered me interesting for them, she jumped in to do a lot of the cooking in addition to managing the chance to participate in the ACF her team and coming up with new menu items each week. Even the staff meals had to apprenticeship program at Houston be handled differently; because of safety precautions, Chef Barrios ensured the meals Country Club” instead of having to were wrapped individually and tasted great to keep bellies fed and morale high. attend culinary school, she says. Working under such pressure and urgency with limited resources, Chef Barrios “I am very grateful for the and her team had to come together — fast. Chef Barrios worked hard to send a apprenticeship program because you are message of togetherness and create a positive work environment, but she has also made not only learning constantly and gaining it her mission to keep the lines of communication open. “Everyone knows they can call or text me or email me if they need anything; I new skills each day; you are also working,” always make myself available,” she says. “I encourage everyone to not hesitate to Chef Barrios says. “By the time you have ask questions in the kitchen or let me know if they need help. We are all working completed the program, you are a well- really hard, but I have a great team of sous chefs and everyone seems happy, and our rounded chef with years of experience. It’s membership seems happy. Overall, we’re running a very good operation. We have a also an honor to learn from some of the good family, and I’m very proud of that.” best chefs in the industry.” Not only did the four-year BECOMING A CHEF apprenticeship program offer Chef Growing up, Chef Barrios says she enjoyed watching her mom cook homemade Barrios a deep dive into culinary desserts and savory Venezuelan meals (and then, of course, eating them). She was on fundamentals; it also gave her the chance track to become an engineer, having taken a semester of classes in Venezuela before to participate in both regional and moving to the U.S. with plans to continue on that track. To learn English, she took national cooking competitions. Coached

40 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 by Chef Gitschner as well as Chef Alex Darvishi, current executive chef at Houston Country Club, she competed in ACF-sanctioned competitions nearly every year from 2004 to 2014 while working at the club, first as an apprentice and later as sous chef. Her first ACF competition was at the student level in 2006 with her team from the Houston Country Club; she won first place in both categories K1 and F2. That year, she also took home a silver medal in the A2 category during an ACF cold-food competition at the Ben E. Keith Food Show in Conroe, Texas. In 2007, still at the student level, Chef Barrios again won first place in the K1 and F2 categories. As captain of the 2008 ACF Student Team under the tutelage of Chefs Gitschner and Darvishi, she led the team to several gold medals as well as the Student Team Championship title at the 2008 ACF National Convention in Las Vegas. At the Ben E. Keith Food Show in Chef Barrios says she has carried his guidance into her new role, turning to it 2012, she competed on a professional during the challenges of last year. She communicated with and kept members engaged level and earned a Category D gold by hosting bingo nights on Zoom and offering special holiday packages on Mother’s medal. In 2014, she competed in an ACF Day, Easter and Thanksgiving. She also regularly changed the menus. To dream up competition during the Texas Chefs new menu items and put a modern spin on classic dishes, Chef Barrios looks at her past Association Convention in Waco, Texas, notes and dishes, brainstorms with her staff, and does research using books and the winning first place in Category W: one- web. One of the more popular menu items has been the African adobo salmon, cooked pot cooking. with soy sauce, white vinegar, and fresh basil and mint, served over avocado-fried rice. And now that the Royal Oaks Club has reopened for indoor dining, Chef Barrios can AFTER THE COMPETITIONS again connect with members in person as well as online. In 2014, she landed a job as executive Outside the kitchen, Chef Barrios has remained committed to the growth of sous chef at Austin Country Club under apprenticeship programs, serving as certification and apprenticeship chair for the ACF Chef Robert Burns, CEC, AAC. “The Professional Chefs Association of Houston from 2011 to 2013. From 2013 to 2014, next six years were my best in terms of Chef Barrios served as vice president for the ACF Professional Chefs Association of my culinary growth; Chef Burns shaped Houston, and as director of the Texas Chefs Association, Austin Chapter, from 2015 me into the chef that I am now,” Chef to 2018. In 2015, she served as a Le Cordon Bleu culinary advisor committee member, Barrios says. “He taught me how to care and from 2017 to 2019, she was certification chair of the Texas Chefs Association at for people — not only in the kitchen, the state level. An active ACF member, she is also an ACF Certified Evaluator, an ACF but outside it as well — and to manage Site Evaluator, and an ACF National Apprenticeship committee member. by [finding] what motivates your team. When Chef Barrios isn’t at work, she enjoys spending time with her partner, Matt He also taught me how to talk to club Qualls; her 14-year-old son, Ethan; and her two fur babies, Bonnie and Clyde. But she members, and that I need to be in the also plans to continue her certification work and involvement with ACF, she says: “My dining room communicating with goal is to continue to grow professionally and personally. I would also like to inspire members. He’s also a great cook; he’s very others and have the opportunity to coach and motivate young chefs. I hope young passionate about what he does, and he culinarians find the time to network with other chefs and create a strong relationship always cooked with us in the kitchen.” from the early stages of their careers. Being connected is very important.”

WEARECHEFS.COM 41

| Chef-to-Chef | DOUBLING DOWN

Thinking about opening a second business? Don’t forget these important considerations By Chef John Reed CEC, CCA, AAC, owner, Custom Culinary Solutions

kits. Instead, we wanted to put high-quality, culinary-driven products in the hands of home cooks as they learned or continued to learn to cook for themselves, while also offering guidance along the way. Our company, Skokie Provisions, produces a line of spice blends, cocktail shrubs, hand-packed pickles, jams and preserves, and cooking sauces — all designed to encourage celebratory cooking, help home cooks create global flavors, and enhance simple yet elegant applications like charcuterie boards.

Without having a commercial kitchen to work in, and needing to manage extended shelf life for “grocery items,” Chef John Reed, CEC, CCA, AAC owner, Custom Culinary Solutions. we took a deep dive into what we could accomplish within our home under “cottage food” laws. Depending on your local health department, these laws allow you to make One year ago this month, when the coronavirus pandemic hit, certain products in your home for direct sale to a consumer everyone — including me — had to quickly shift gears. (at farmers markets, for example), once you have the After working as a chef-consultant for the last 10-plus years, appropriate certification and registration documents. It however, I was in the perfect position to not only help others does not allow online sales or the option to sell at another in the industry, but also support myself and my business. I retail location. realized the only way to help others, including my clients, was to care for myself and my company first. So how do you take By late September 2020, using our cottage food registration, care of a company teetering on a 75%-plus decline in sales, we started selling at two late-season markets, which would with only one type of revenue source, and the path back to take us into early December. But we knew we were going to normalcy projected to be a long one? need to also sell products outside a five- or six-hour window under a canopy in a parking lot. To be able to sell online, we I did what some others have done: I opened a second business, had to move into a commercial kitchen and get a retail food as risky as that sounds (and is). However, it was a clear and license. We quickly leased space that gets inspected by an conscious decision based on an understanding of the needs approved health department. This allowed us to sell directly to of the marketplace: Even if more consumers are cooking at consumers, including via online sales. However, most health home now, they still want the flavors and experience of the departments will require several other components, including professional chef. having one certified food safety manager on hand per shift, as Our rapid pivot was to create a product line that just didn’t well as documented Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point put a single, one-time solution on the table through meal (HAACP) Plans.

42 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 I had to go back to school to become HACCP-certified inventory before we even started producing our goods. I as well as to become a Preventive Controls Qualified strongly recommend finding reliable suppliers for your needs Individual (PCQI). I had to learn the difference between well in advance of preparing your first product. U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) food safety requirements, and Invest in solid product development. We tested every recipe four to five times before finalizing them. Production there are a lot more rules than you would think to be able to steps, textural quality, consistency and — above all manufacture wholesale products. — taste are all key. Good manufactured food must be If you’re looking to try to create new revenue streams by replicable and match the expectations you may have producing packaged goods, there is a lot to consider. Before already established in your other businesses or want to set you venture into this realm, let me offer some important steps for a new venture. to take. Get your products officially tested. All of our cooked Form a corporation. Our lawyer helped us form an LLC and products, pickles, and preserved items had to be tested by register our logo and business name for future investors and a qualified lab for validation of FDA requirements for pH product protection. As an LLC, we are a private company, and water activity. We researched both FDA resources and which limits the number of members (versus shareholders, as university extension programs to find qualified labs. would be the case for an S or C corporation). Logo design and branding is key. Your brand is everything, Get the right insurance. Having specific liability insurance so instead of just creating branding we thought looked good, for the sale of products is crucial, and this insurance is we hired local graphic designers who understood how our different from restaurant liability insurance. Your insurance customers make purchasing decisions. Apart from your name needs to protect you against others’ actions, not just your and logo, your labels must include some required information, own, as you are supplying an ingredient, not just a ready-to- including detailed ingredients; allergen declarations; eat or finished product. production and use-by dates; lot coding; production and contact location; and nutritional information as defined by Find the right packaging solution. There are plenty of FDA/USDA labeling requirements. packaging solutions from restaurant suppliers, but we had If you’re considering farmers markets, don’t forget about to focus on items that are both FDA- and USDA-approved, transportation and booth design. Farmers markets are and that allowed us to best present the quality of the product. similar to setting up action stations at an off-premise event. Because our products are considered “grocery” items, they Our biggest challenge was figuring out how much room must be proven to be food safe and be validated under a USDA we had in our car for all of our needs. Then, when you go Food Safety or HACCP Plan. to set up the booth, you need to consider lighting, weather Understand your local health department regulations. For protection, and the best merchandising design for your example, if you’re planning on selling your products at a products. We focused on informative signage and the use of farmers market, you must comply with local, county and/ natural light to showcase the beauty of the products. We also or state food safety guidelines, and in many cases, these invested in touchless solutions and technology for credit guidelines are not identical. As a result, you might need to cards, and learned how to sell products on our phones using apply for separate or additional licenses, certifications and/ mobile apps. or registrations, such as Cottage Food Law registration, All of the above will be a part of start-up costs; as with any Temporary/Seasonal Food License, and Food Product successful venture, you need to invest early without cutting Sampling Certification. The applications may ask for written corners. The right financing, time and due diligence will HACCP plans that identify the health risks of producing ensure the most reward while reducing risks. specific products.

Create your own reliable supply chain. For most of the latter half of 2020, we were competing for glass and plastic packaging due to production issues and greater demand. We had to buy in bulk from multiple sources and invest in

WEARECHEFS.COM 43 | Health |

STRESS LESS Simple tips to minimize stress and anxiety By Liz Barrett Foster

Over the past year, those working in the restaurant industry depression, diabetes and arthritis. Short sleepers were have persevered through layoffs, transitions of business models, also more prone to obesity, habitual smoking and dining room closures, stricter health guidelines, risks to their getting less activity. health, and — for some — business losses or even permanent Getting more sleep may seem impossible at first closures caused by the novel coronavirus pandemic. After for those working long or odd hours, but you can surveying 6,000 restaurant owners, the National Restaurant take small steps toward your goal. Start by winding Association Research Group estimated as of Dec. 2, 2020, down before bed, and avoid caffeine, large meals and roughly 110,000 eating and drinking establishments were electronics prior to bedtime. Create a comfortable completely closed, either temporarily or permanently. sleep environment with soft bedding and a sleep For many chefs and hospitality workers, stress begins the sound machine. Slowly train yourself to go to bed 15 moment they open their eyes in the morning. In an industry minutes earlier each night. Before you know it, you’ll that prides itself on taking care of others, those on the front be sleeping more and feeling better. lines often forget to take care of themselves. “Chefs have a 2. Take Control of Your Breathing tendency to feel lost when they aren’t pleasing someone,” says The Running NutritionistLisa Dorfman, a licensed mental One of the easiest ways to immediately reduce health counselor, educator, author and chef. “Chefs need the the feeling of stress in your body is to notice — and satisfaction that comes from feeding others.” correct — how you’re breathing. According to The pandemic has exacerbated anxiety, leading to the Ayurvedic Chef Nalini Mehta, our brain registers formation of hospitality-specific help groups such as “I Got Your short bursts of breath as anger and frustration, and Back” and “Restaurant After Hours.” Both long, deep inhalations as projects are aimed at helping chefs, servers relaxation. “Think of how you and others in the hospitality industry who feel when you’re in a beautiful may be struggling during the pandemic. place,” Chef Mehta says. “You Beyond collaborating with peers, take a deep breath and breathe creating a routine for sleep, mindful it in.” She says the human breathing, nutrition, movement and respiratory system is the only meditation is more important than ever. system in the body that is both Read on for simple ways to alleviate the involuntary and voluntary — compounding stresses of life in the kitchen. meaning, unlike the heart, we can control respiration. Next 1. Increase Your Zzzs time you notice that you are According to a study conducted by feeling frustrated or stressed, the Centers for Disease Control and or are taking short breaths, stop Prevention, those who sleep less than seven and take a few deep breaths, hours per night reported higher incidences breathing in through your nose of 10 chronic health conditions, including Lisa Dorfman, The Running Nutritionist. and out through your mouth

44 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 (you should feel your and stress. Whether you choose to walk around the stomach rising and block or sweep the front sidewalk, the benefits of falling, not your chest). moving your body and distracting your mind from Imagine you’re on a work remain the same. beach and breathing Chef Ledda says he works out in the morning to in the ocean air. Chef help set the tone for the day, create focus, get the blood Mehta says you can also flowing and establish a positive mindset for the rest try alternate- nostril of the day. “Exercise provides an outlet, [a method] to breathing, where you de-stress and a way to disconnect from the issues of breath in one nostril and the day, and helps inspire a healthier lifestyle,” Chef out the other. Ledda says. “Taking time out of the day is key, whether it's for an hour-long workout or a 20-minute walk.” 3. Feed Your Ayurvedic Chef Nalini Mehta. Body and Mind 5. Try a Simple Meditation Chefs love to feed people. However, when it comes to If you’ve never meditated before, it can feel feeding themselves, many chefs grab unhealthy snacks awkward the first time you try it. However, if you’re throughout the day while working, eat just one “family meal” the type that has a million things racing through your with the staff, or skip meals altogether. mind, meditation is a useful tool for finally calming Studies have shown our brain is directly affected by the those thoughts. food we put in our belly. Those who follow a traditional You can start slowly, with one or two minutes as Mediterranean diet, which replaces highly processed foods with you’re falling asleep or right when you wake up. Just healthy fruits, vegetables, whole grains and fish, reportedly have close your eyes and pay attention to your breathing. 25% to 35% less risk of developing depression. Dorfman says The more you’re able to focus on your breathing it’s important to slow down and eat mindfully. “Get consistent instead of random thoughts, the calmer you’ll become. meals and snacks, drink more water, and introduce more colors Once you get the hang of it, you can use meditation as to your plate,” she says. a daily tool, or whenever you become overly stressed. Chef Art Ledda, a “We must take control of our mental hygiene in the Food Fanatic chef for same way we take care of our dental hygiene,” says US Foods, says, “Eating Chef Mehta, who recently began an online program to foods that are high in help chefs meditate called "The Happy Chef Project." protein and have healthy The bottom line: You can control the levels of your fats, nutrients, vitamins stress and anxiety to some degree, using the tools you and minerals is key to already have at your disposal. And, at the end of the maintaining the level of day, Chef Ledda says, “It’s OK to not be OK. Chefs energy that one needs should not be afraid of ‘the mental health monster,’ but throughout their day in rather recognize it, welcome it and address it, with a the kitchen.” therapist, if needed.” According to Chef Chef Art Ledda, Food Fanatic. Avoid placing unnecessary stigmas on mental Mehta, it takes discipline health, and let someone know if you’re in distress. to eat right, but once you begin to feel more energized from the “We have to have more dialogue, support and foods that nourish you, you can be better equipped to nourish understanding that mental health is a real concern for others. “It’s about the ritual of cooking, eating and taking care our industry and our world as a whole,” he adds. “Seek of yourself,” she says. the help. We are in this together.” 4. Make Time for Movement Liz Barrett Foster is an award-winning B2B journalist, online food writer and founder/editor of EatLikeaWriter.com. When it seems there’s never enough time in the day, exercise may be the last thing on your mind. But just 15 to 20 minutes of regular activity has been shown to improve anxiety

WEARECHEFS.COM 45 | Segment Spotlight | Hotels & Resorts How lodging chefs are navigating COVID-19’s effects on their operations in 2021 // By Michael Costa

ince last March, the pandemic’s impact on foodservice has been S devastating. While freestanding restaurants were arguably hit the hardest by shutdowns and dining restrictions, lodging is another segment dealing with unprecedented loss of business — especially due to canceled meetings and events. Market research firm Datassential estimated that by mid-2020, the hotel industry experienced a 44% decrease in business, taking in approximately $23.4 billion less than during the same time period in 2019. The lodging industry relies on “heads in beds” to keep revenues flowing, and without guests booking rooms during the pandemic, the food and beverage operations suffer, leading to mass layoffs and chefs being forced to redefine what it means to be a leader in the kitchen. We spoke with three hotel chefs impacted by coronavirus to find out what areas of their operations have been altered by the pandemic, and what culinary goals they’ve set for 2021 amid continuing uncertainty about when business will fully return. Cross-Trained Staff Furloughs and layoffs for hotel employees were inevitable when business dropped in 2020. Some lodging operations stayed open with reduced capacity and numerous pandemic precautions in their restaurants and room service options, while others were closed completely for months. The chefs we talked to predict staffing levels likely won’t return to pre-pandemic numbers in 2021, meaning many employees will need to know Clockwise from top left: Grilled grouper from Seafire Steakhouse in Atlantis how to work in the kitchen, behind the bar and as Paradise Island, Bahamas; Chef Sean waitstaff, depending on business demand during a O'Connell; a banquet spread. given shift.

46 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 Left: After the hotel reopened in June, guests at SpringHill Suites by Marriott Las Vegas Convention Center were served buffet style, with chef-attendants at every station to plate food in a safe manner. Right: Chef James Pate.

“Before COVID-19, I had a staff of 15 people; today, my current staff is me, my sous chef, two bartenders and one server, and they alternate positions so they can do each other’s jobs,” “TODAY, WE’RE ASKING says Chef James Pate, executive chef of SpringHill Suites by OURSELVES IF WE REALLY Marriott Las Vegas Convention Center, and the 2020 Las Vegas ACF Chef of the Year. In normal times, Pate adds, 90% of his NEED A DEDICATED ICE hotel’s business comes from the convention center across the CARVER, OR IF WE CAN street, which closed for large events for most of 2020 and is gradually reopening in 2021. HAVE A GARDE MANGER Executive Chef Jeff Simms at The Breakers Palm Beach in Palm Beach Gardens, Florida, says his resort’s business “shifts CHEF HANDLE IT. WE’RE from week to week, day to day, and hour by hour, so we have to ALL WEARING MULTIPLE be able to mobilize our resources. If it rains on the pool deck and guests move into an interior dining venue, we must send cooks HATS NOW, AND I DON’T where they’re needed, and they must be trained in advance.” At Atlantis Paradise Island in the Bahamas, Executive THINK THAT’LL CHANGE Chef Sean O’Connell oversees 44 F&B venues spread across ANYTIME SOON.” five towers totaling more than 3,800 rooms. The entire resort was closed for nine months in 2020, with a limited, phased -CHEF SEAN O'CONNELL reopening beginning in December. In Q1 of 2021, only two towers and six restaurants are operating at Atlantis. “We’re looking at how we staff our kitchens differently this year,” says Chef O’Connell. “We’re re-mapping our kitchens and figuring out how many stations we actually need, which dictates how many cooks we have. We had a lot of luxury positions before, like a cake artist and an ice carver. Today, we’re asking ourselves if we really need a dedicated ice carver, or if we can have a garde manger chef handle it. We’re all wearing multiple hats now, and I don’t think that’ll change anytime soon.”

WEARECHEFS.COM 47 | Segment Spotlight |

Meetings & Events “We created a budget for 2021 that is actually quarterly All three chefs also oversee catering operations for in-house now instead of for the whole year, as we’ve traditionally groups. Last year, Chef Pate’s property was the host hotel for done, and we’re monitoring everything on a daily basis the visiting opponents of the Las Vegas Lights FC professional now,” Chef Pate says. soccer team. The hotel was closed from March to June, and after it At Atlantis, Chef O’Connell says CapEx budgeting is reopened, self-serve buffets were no longer an option. The teams done in September, approved by December and released to were fed buffet style, but with chef-attendants at every station F&B in February, “so our 2020 CapEx was released to us just plating food for the players in a socially distanced setting. as the pandemic hit and we shut down. We didn’t actually Across much of the hotel industry, self-serve buffets and spend that money, so it rolled over into 2021.” receptions for groups have disappeared due to the pandemic, Streamlined Menus replaced by the chef-attendant model used at Chef Pate’s property, or with grab-and-go appetizers and dishes in single- The combination of low business levels and fewer cooks serve containers. One-course plated events are also an option, in the kitchen has led many hotel chefs to reframe every item with pandemic precautions in place for service. on their menus through the lenses of profitability, inventory usage and labor utilization. “We reduced the size of our Annual Budgets menus by 30%,” Chef O’Connell explains. “We used to have It's safe to say some or all of the annual culinary capital items that enhanced menu variety, but sales were low, or expenditure (CapEx) budgets at many hotels went unused in people [only] periodically asked for them. Those dishes are 2020 due to drastically lower business levels, or because the gone now. If it’s not selling, it’s gone.” start of the 2020 fiscal year coincided with shutdowns. Chef Pate adds he’s been through four core menu changes since reopening, all based entirely on guest data and feedback. “Now it’s basically appetizers, sandwiches and four entrées, and many of our guests are opting for contactless in-room dining.” 2021 Goals All three chefs say their goals for 2021 include a dedicated focus on their employees’ health, and an improved guest experience, even during a pandemic. An accurate revenue forecast is a moonshot. “What’s a realistic revenue target now? We’re probably at 40% of our projected revenue in 2020, and [that’s continuing] into 2021 due to coronavirus, so one of our goals is to incrementally improve and focus on the guest experience, making it viable for them to come here and enjoy themselves,” Chef O’Connell says. Chef Simms advises other hotel chefs to “make the safety and well-being of your team your top priority in 2021. Your success depends on your people, so be sure to listen to their needs, ideas and suggestions, and more importantly, challenge them to do more.”

Michael Costa is the former editorial director of Hotel F&B magazine and a regular contributor to NCR.

Chef Jeff Simms at The Breakers Palm Beach in Palm Beach Gardens, Florida.

48 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 2021 ACF Event Sponsors

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PROMOTION INITIATIVE | Quiz |

NCR Quiz March/April 2021 By LeeAnn Corrao, CFC®

Which of the following is NOT an Where was the ACF’s first National economical cut of meat? Convention held? a. Pork jowl a. Florida b. Beef chuck b. New York c. Beef tenderloin d. Lamb shoulder c. Minnesota d. Pennsylvania Beef sirloin cap is also referred to as . What can be a benefit of implementing a. Coulotte new software automation technology b. Basses-côtes in the kitchen? c. Rumsteak a. Improved accuracy d. Flank steak b. Improved consistency Brazilian steakhouses typically use which c. Improved efficiency method to prepare beef sirloin cap? d. All of the above a. Pan-searing b. Grilling A combi oven can . c. Stewing a. Adjust the cook time and d. Roasting temperature when you open and Traditional American style of biscuits close the door call for . b. Lead to a reduction in kitchen labor e. Cornmeal/corn flour f. Soft flour c. Allow any number and variations of g. Whole-wheat flour items to cook at the same time h. Oatmeal d. All of the above

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, those who sleep less than seven hours per night reported higher incidences of depression, diabetes and arthritis. a. True b. False

Those who follow a traditional Mediterranean diet reportedly have less risk of developing depression. a. 15% - 20% b. 20% - 25% c. 25% - 35% d. 35% - 40%

When did the ACF Pittsburgh Chapter join the ACF? a. 1929 b. 1944 c. 1947 d. 1964

See the rest of the questions, finish the quiz and earn 4 CEHs toward your certification on ACF’s new Online Learning Center at acfchefs.org/olc.

50 NCR | MARCH/APRIL 2021 Policy & Regulations Personnel Nutrition Care Procedure Documentation Medical Nutrition Therapy Management Hiring Business Leadership Teamwork Operations Foodservice Sanitation Nutrition Ethics & Safety Collaboration Food Preparation Communication

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