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Home , Slow fashion, Stewardship

Anti- in the Industry and its Influence on Brand Resonance

By:

Catharina Nilsson, Dajana Pjatakova, Sk Abtahiune Rashid

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2 Anti-Consumerism in the Fashion Industry and its Influence on Brand Resonance

Catharina Nilsson, Dajana Pjatakova, Sk Abtahiune Rashid

Abstract Purpose: Anti-consumerism and are two vital concepts that are prominent in society today, but have not been analyzed in terms of if they are a part of creating this brand resonance. A new framework, the Sustainable Brand Model, is introduced to determine if a sustainable brand is able to sustain long-term competitive advantages through enhancing brand resonance. : Mixed method research using primarily qualitative data, through case studies and a questionnaire, with quantitative data to support qualitative results Findings: The research conducted demonstrates that sustainable brands who promote this concept of anti-consumerism can enhance their brand resonance by adhering to the Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model. Contribution: This paper is one of the few to show the connection between sustainable fashion/anti-consumerism and brand resonance. Moreover, to the best of our knowledge, the creation of our Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model is also the first conceptualization of what constitutes a sustainable brand and how a brand may enhance its brand resonance with no other similar models created before this study. Keywords: sustainable fashion, sustainable brand, anti-consumerism, brand resonance, brand equity, Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model, CBBE pyramid, brand orientation, market orientation, Patagonia, Nudie Jeans, Uniqlo Paper type: Research Paper

environment and are taking some action in Introduction their daily lives to reduce and waste” (World Business Council for Throughout the world today, , 2008). consumers have begun shifting their Additionally, “nearly one in four US adults preferences from high consumption towards now subscribes to a new of values that a more durable and sustainable approach, typically includes ‘, due to considerable efforts made by , global issues and spiritual environmental companies and organizations. searching’” (World Business Council for While the point is not that all consumers do Sustainable Development, 2008). not want to consume anymore, the Organizations, especially those in the of owning and buying unnecessary items is fashion industry, have had to find ways to starting to change. In a 2008 study adapt to this phenomenon. While many conducted by the National Geographic firms have realized that by integrating Society and GlobScan on consumer choice corporate social responsibility (CSR) into and the environment across fourteen their business models, they can sustain long- countries, consumers in each country “feel term competitive advantages, not as many empowered when it comes to the have taken into account an anti-

3 consumerism approach. CSR is used most Literature Review effectively when it is strategic, by “choosing a unique position – doing things differently from competitors in a way that lowers costs Brand-Market Orientation or better serves a particular set of customer needs” (Porter & Kramer, 2006). While this The brand-oriented approach paper does not focus solely on CSR, it is illustrates that the brand acts as the main hub apparent that sustainable fashion, in this that the organization revolves around case reducing, reusing, and old (Gromark & Melin, 2011). However, it is garments, is an essential part of it. This has true that in taking this approach, brand given rise to the circular economy, which is equity is only produced when there are “an economic model based on ’ continued interactions with external and conservation and healthy consumption internal stakeholders (Gromark & Melin, behaviour” (Ghența & Matei, 2018). One of 2011). Therefore, the hybrid brand-market the ways in which to truly achieve a circular approach also takes into consideration the is to try to extend the life importance that brand image plays on the cycles of products by repairing, upgrading, perception of the brand (Urde, Baumgarth & remanufacturing, or remarketing them Merilees, 2011). It is vital that a brand (Ghența & Matei, 2018). For example, three considers both “inside-out” and “outside-in” corporate brands who use this concept in strategies so as to attract consumers through their own business models are Patagonia, its core values and unique proposition, Uniqlo and Nudie Jeans. These companies but at the same time, considers consumers’ have used their brands as strong forces needs and wants (Urde, Baumgarth & behind this circular business concept, which Merilees, 2011). has driven consumers to change their In addition, a key element of market toward consumption. However, driving firms is using innovation to change there seems to lack a connection between consumer behaviors by creating a new want this concept of sustainable fashion and anti- or a need that is not already present in the consumerism with enhancing brand market (Tarnovskaya, Elg & Burt, 2008). resonance in order to sustain brand loyalty, The market driving approach has been a commitment, community and attachment. strategy used by successful global The main aim of this paper is to companies, such as Amazon, The Body explore if it is possible for a sustainable Shop, and IKEA, which are characterized as brand to enhance its brand resonance strong brands in their respective markets, through promoting the sustainable fashion create a reputable brand image, and are able and anti-consumerism concepts. In order to to sustain their growth across international explore this issue, this paper will illustrate markets (Tarnovskaya, Elg & Burt, 2008). how a new model, that focuses on Market driving has been viewed as either sustainable brand stewardship, can enhance being a part of the existing market its brand resonance by analyzing three case orientation theory as an emerging concept, studies: Patagonia, Uniqlo and Nudie Jeans. while others see it as a completely new and different model altogether (Tarnovskaya, Elg & Burt, 2008). Therefore, firms that are both brand oriented and market oriented tend to exhibit the same characteristics of a market driving firm, due to the strong

4 emphasis placed on creating value for brand awareness in crucial consumption consumers by focusing on the firm’s core moments, and maximize the possibility of a competencies and capabilities. particular brand being purchased over a Furthermore, an important element competitor’s (Keller, 2001). of a brand oriented organization is emotional One step above salience in the branding, or seeking to connect with CBBE pyramid, the meaning of the brand customers on a deeper level through its can be distinguished through the identity (Gobé, 2001). Strong brands contain performance and function of its products in this emotional component because they are conjunction with the brand imagery that is able to create a community that in evoked through the brand’s emotional what the brand stands for, which emphasizes aspects (Keller, 2001). These associations consumer loyalty and repeat purchase with the brand can be created either directly, (Kapferer, 2012). Organizations that through consumer’s experiences, or demonstrate emotional branding use indirectly, through or word-of- intangible and tangible kernel, or core, mouth (Keller, 2001). values as guiding that will lead to The next step in the CBBE pyramid emotional loyalty and engagement focuses on brand responses due to (Kapferer, 2012). In order to create a strong judgments and feelings that consumers have brand identity, companies need to produce a towards the brand; either the consumers use brand platform that crystalizes these core their “head” or their “heart” in making values, which should be valuable, important decisions about a brand (Keller, communicable, unique, and difficult to 2001). Therefore, it can be concluded that imitate (Gromark & Melin, 2011). “the true measure of the strength of a brand depends on how consumers think, feel, and act with respect to that brand” (Keller, Brand Equity 2001). The final step of the CBBE pyramid Brand equity seeks to evaluate brand is brand resonance, which is the extent to awareness, loyalty, market leadership, which the consumer feels that they can likeability, trustworthiness, uniqueness, identify with the brand and have a strong differentiation, and product associations emotional connection or relationship with it (Keller, 2006). The customer-based brand (Keller, 2001). Thus, brand resonance is equity (CBBE) pyramid model will be used accomplished through creating positive in order to show how essential brand associations with the brand, focusing on resonance is to brand equity. Keller argues product performance as well as emotional that “to create brand equity, it is important connections with consumers, so that they that the brand have strong, favorable, and may feel like they are apart of the brand and unique brand associations, in that order.” At the community it creates. the bottom of the CBBE pyramid, there is brand salience, whose main function is to strengthen these brand associations, increase

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Figure 1. Keller’s CBBE Pyramid Model

Introducing the Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model Heritage Brand Quotient, they rather focus on the sustainable stewardship that a brand A new model is being proposed that strives to nurture, maintain and protect. It is will be placed within the CBBE pyramid also important to note that the Sustainable model previously discussed. The model will Brand Stewardship Model represents brand distinguish how a brand that was created and market orientation and explains inside upon environmental and sustainable (brand) and outside (consumer) approaches. principles can sustain long-term competitive As seen in Figure 2, similar to Keller’s advantages through strong brand resonance. model, we distinguish between the elements The Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model which can trigger rational reasoning in is inspired by Heritage Brand Quotient. The consumers minds: track record, core values, latter one uses five major elements: track endurance, serviceability (on the left). On record, longevity, history important to the other hand, the elements on the right: identity, core values, and use of symbols storytelling, use of symbols, brand (Urde, Greyser, Balmer, 2007). However, in personality and history important to identity the Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model, represent elements which foster consumer's the elements are: storytelling, use of strong emotions towards the brand. Track symbols, brand personality, history record and core values represent important to identity, serviceability, judgements, while endurance and endurance, core values and track record. serviceability represent the cognitive image Although these elements are similar to the of the brand. On the other hand, storytelling and use of symbols represent feelings, while brand personality and history important to

6 identity reflect the emotional image. We image, feelings and emotional image, therefore divided our 8 elements into four respectively (please see Figure 2). category groups, with two elements each representing Keller's judgements, cognitive

Figure 2. Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model

Defining the Sustainable Brand Stewardship Quotient reflects the internal branding approach as well as consumers’ perceptions, therefore Brand and market orientation, or the aligning the two together. As a result, so called “inside-out” and “outside-in” Keller's pyramid core is merged with the approaches, have become a focal point for Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model, this paper (Urde, Baumgarth & Merilees, based on the Brand Heritage Quotient. 2011). In creating this model, it was Each of the elements of the concluded that in order for an organization Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model are to be successful, both approaches are paired with Keller's “head” or “heart” necessary. Therefore, a new brand-market elements and their description (Keller, orientation model has been defined, which 2001).

7 Figure 3. Inside-out and Outside-in Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model

Furthermore, this new model themselves. They seek social approval by corresponds to all four of the core elements wearing the brand as a badge or symbol of within the CBBE pyramid model previously loyalty. On the other hand, core values can discussed: brand performance (cognitive), be seen as part of the judgements element imagery (emotional), judgements and because consumers need to be explicitly feelings (please refer to Figure 3). For shown and educated on what the brand example, use of symbols corresponds to the stands for and how these values are feelings element because consumers feel transferable to the brand’s products and like they are a part of something larger than services. Therefore, values such as quality,

8 superiority, consideration for the This paper seeks to analyze one environment, and also can be company who has been able to transcend all vital for the sustainable brand to continually others by creating a loyal community of use and promote to its consumers. Lastly, all consumers who believe wholeheartedly in of these elements are interconnected and its mission and vision: Patagonia. The new necessary to create a strong sustainable proposed model will be explained using brand. For example, the endurance element Patagonia, as well as will be explored using considers the durability and longevity of the two other companies, Uniqlo and Nudie brand’s products, but also relates to the Jeans, who have implemented ’s history as it ensures that its values into their business models. To supplement endure through time. these case studies, 100 responses were collected from consumers in order to garner imperative insights on sustainable fashion and anti-consumption. The sample size is Methodology small, therefore a generalization cannot be made, however, since this is a new area of An important aspect in our research study, it does give imperative insights. is that there is no model, explicitly for The qualitative research, supported sustainable brands, that can aid in by quantitative responses, was conducted as determining brand resonance. As we saw in it allowed for an in-depth look into the literature review, organizations that drive consumers perceptions of sustainable change in consumers behavior using their fashion and Patagonia. The questionnaire own distinctive core values exhibit a brand- helped to gauge interest in this anti- market orientation, or a market-driving consumerism concept through purchase approach (Tarnovskaya, Elg & Burt, 2008). intentions, awareness of the issue, These core values make up the brand’s habits, as well as future implications for identity, which help to guide its principles other businesses trying to promote this and decisions in regards to the market. The . To avoid potential biases, organization’s identity helps to strike a consumer insights were generated using connection between brand and consumer; if different genders, ages, and geographical the consumer feels strongly about the locations (America, Europe, and Asia). company’s core values, it will most likely lead to a sustained relationship between the brand and the consumer, and thus, increased Case Studies and Observation brand resonance (Keller, 2001). Brand resonance is the highest level within the Patagonia, along with Uniqlo and CBBE pyramid model and to attain this, Nudie Jeans, will be analyzed in regards to brand’s must first create salience and build the new proposed model, the Sustainable the brand’s image and responses, before Brand Stewardship Model within the CBBE creating a long-lasting relationship (Keller, pyramid model. It will be determined if this 2001). The inclusion of the Sustainable new mode can be applied to all sustainable Brand Stewardship Model within the CBBE brands and whether it will be a pyramid model is necessary to strategically predictor of enhancing brand resonance. distinguish what creates these engaged communities of followers.

9 Case Study - Patagonia on Patagonia’s commitment to sustainably Patagonia is an American sourcing its products: “As a management environmental brand whose mission is to team, we try to empower people to make “build the best product, cause no good, collaborative, and very transparent unnecessary harm, use business to inspire, decisions around the values of the company. and implement solutions to the It’s unique and unlike any company I have environmental crisis” (Patagonia, 2018, ever worked at in that we treat quality, best online). As was written in a catalogue on the product, the environment, and the social history behind its brand name, Patagonia: "it issues that affect the people in the supply brings to mind… romantic visions of chain, on an equal level as the business of glaciers tumbling into fjords, jagged the company” (O’Rourke & Strand, 2016). windswept peaks, gauchos and condors" Patagonia has always acknowledged that the (Patagonia, 2018, online).This depiction of organization itself is detrimental to the Patagonia evokes its personality traits of environment. Therefore, Patagonia has being adventurous, daring, rugged, and honed in on reversing or reducing the outdoorsy (please refer to Figure 4). The amount of impact that it has on the Earth, company’s core values stem from its and has done this by focusing on its supply mission, encompassing the fundamental chain, grassroots activists, repairing clothing beliefs of: “1) Quality: Pursuit of ever- for customers, advocating for change and greater quality in everything we do; 2) having a strong vision for a better future Integrity: Relationships built on integrity (Patagonia, 2018, online). and respect; 3) Environmentalism: Serve as On the other hand, Patagonia strives a catalyst for personal and corporate action; to make connections with consumers based and 4) Not Bound by : Our on its steadfast environmental activism success—and much of the fun—lies in within the community. Patagonia’s brand developing innovative ways to do things” platform is based off of its history of (O’Rourke & Strand, 2016). Through using activism. For example, Patagonia Action materials that support Patagonia’s of Works connects individuals with durability and longevity, this has led to organizations in the same community that increased customer satisfaction and has are fighting for the same environmental reduced costs by only producing products issues and allows them to donate money, that are simple in design, and versatile volunteer, sign petitions, and join in on local enough for different situations (Rattalino, events (Patagonia, 2018, online). Patagonia 2017). Patagonia also has created a “Worn also only gives grants to organizations that Wear” campaign that seeks to educate and are dedicated to solving an environmental interact with customers on a deeper level by issue, recognizing the root problem, and are repairing, reusing, or recycling old in it for the long-term (Patagonia, 2018, Patagonia garments (Patagonia, 2018, online). Also, through 1% for the planet, online). The company believes that using Patagonia begun to donate 1% of its total clothing for a longer period of time, thereby sales to environmental organizations lessening consumption, is better for the (O’Rourke & Strand, 2016). As stated by the planet and the environment as a whole. CEO of the company, Yvon Chouinard, Patagonia also places a strong “you have to get away from the idea that it’s emphasis on being transparent in all of the philanthropy. I look at it as a cost of doing activities that the company performs. Doug business. Every business should say, ‘We’re Freeman, Patagonia’s COO, has commented polluters, we’re using our nonrenewable

10 resources’, and therefore we should tax marketing cost ” (O’Rourke & Strand, ourselves. Being part of [1% For the Planet] 2016). is also good for business….Think of it as a

Figure 4. Patagonia within the Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model

Case Study - Uniqlo innovation into clothing manufacture and Uniqlo is a Japanese fashion brand, design, creating unique clothing lines to with a comprehensive and strong corporate meet customer needs in new ways (Coban, social responsibility statement. Its Koch, Yoo, Zaheer, Zapata & Zormpas, sustainability mission statement is 2015). Due to this, Uniqlo focuses on four “Unlocking the Power of Clothing” (Uniqlo, main areas: products, supply chain, n.d., online), to change the world for the employees, stores and communities. better through its business (please refer to Uniqlo’s purpose is to produce non- Figure 5). In doing so, Uniqlo is in fact a disposable, durable and high-quality “Made technology company rather than a fashion for all” clothing, which is known for its company. It is determined to bring functionality (Aaker, 2015). While design plays an important role, the company does

11 not try to adhere to the trend-driven nature environmental practices. Partner facilities of . It has positioned itself as the are visited by Takumi experts, who have world's first and unique producer of over 30 years of textile industry experience, LifeWear (blend between casual and sports and contribute to knowledge transfer. This wear), HeatTech (fabric that turns moisture transfer of knowledge provides consistent into heat) and AIRism (silk-like fabric that technical support to improve the factory wicks away moisture) garments (Aaker, work and ensure top quality of the products 2015). Tadashi Yanai, founder and CEO of (Uniqlo, n.d., online). Uniqlo, often compares Uniqlo as following Uniqlo's stores play an incremental in the steps of Steve Jobs and Apple because role in sustaining its sustainable practices. he strives to continuously update the All of Uniqlo’s stores have recycling garments to create ever-better innovative programs in place. Collected (Uniqlo) clothing (Kansara 2013). Moreover, it garments are either recycled or reused. produced in a way that is harmonious with Unwearable items are recycled into refuse nature, without excessive burden on the paper and plastic fuel pellets for fuel. Items environment (Uniqlo, n.d., online). in good condition are delivered to people In order to reduce the organization’s around the world such as refugees, disaster environmental impact, Uniqlo has a victims, homeless people, single mothers thorough supplier system in place. Uniqlo and others, while paying attention to local was the first company in Japan to adopt the needs, climate, culture and . While SPA (Specialty store retailer of Private label doing so, Uniqlo works with the United Apparel) model. The business model allows Nations High Commissioner for Refugees central management to be involved in (UNHCR), NGOs and many other product planning, design, manufacturing and established partners in this field. As of the distribution to save costs and have a flexible end of August 2018, Uniqlo collected 77.57 production structure in place (Coban et al, million items from 18 countries and regions 2015). By establishing partnership-like out of which 30.29 million items were relationships with its suppliers, Uniqlo is donated to 65 countries and regions around able to control and influence its supply chain the world (Uniqlo, n.d., online). as well as implement ethical and

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Figure 5. Uniqlo within the Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model

Case Study - Nudie Jeans to Levi's or Wrangler’s image, Nudie Jeans' Nudie Jeans is a Swedish denim brand personality is also based on life-long brand which focuses on sustainability and attachment to the “second skin” pair of jeans transparency in every step of its production (Nudie Jeans, n.d., online). process. In the interview by Engels-Zadén & Since it was founded in 2001, the Hansson, 2015, one of the owners stated: “It company has been focusing on transparency has always been central for us [i.e.., the at all levels of production and set high owners] to be able to go to sleep at night sustainability standards. The company knowing that those who work and produce implements sustainable solutions from the for us are doing well”. Nudie Jeans' tagline, materials throughout the production to the “The Naked Truth About Denim”, is final product “This is Nudie Jeans” connected to its transparency, storytelling, (Hedman, 2018). Nudie positioned itself as and rebellious nature to search for better the only producer of 100% organic cotton ideals and functional features of the denim with an aim to becoming the most garment. Similarly

13 transparent company in the world (Egels- It can also be perceived as a means to reduce Zandén & Hansson, 2015). As a result of its environmental impact by lowering the water transparency project launched in 2013, and washing detergent use (Nudie Jeans customers can trace the origin, sustainable Sustainability Report, 2016). practices and production facilities of their The second step in the eco-cycle is jeans on the company's website. repair. All of the company's stores serve as Nudie Jeans has always been Repair Shops and offer free repairs on Nudie determined to prolong the life of its products for life (please refer to Figure 6). products, to produce slow fashion and to Given the fact that customers might not be contribute to the circular economy (Hedman, able to visit one of these stores, the company 2018). In doing so, one of the most also provides the “Nudie Jeans Repair Kit”, distinctive features of Nudie Jeans is its so- which contains patches and a few additional called “eco-cycle”: “we do not believe in items to help consumers repair garments ‘throwaway’ and ‘jeans’ are words that themselves (Nudie Jeans, n.d., online). The belong together and our eco-cycle is a good circular lifecycle of Nudie’s jeans is example of how we practice the idea. The envisioned in this reuse program. When eco-cycle is always with us, from decision- used and/or repaired jeans have been given making in the design process to the choice the eco label “Good Environmental Choice”, of material,[...]. It is everything we do.” they can be returned to its stores as second- (Nudie Jeans Sustainability Report, 2016). hand articles. For example, as of 2017, Nudie's eco-cycle can be defined in the around 44,021 jeans were repaired and out following steps: break-in, repair, reuse and of 5,099 reused jeans, 804 were sold as recycle. Break-in is a form of craftsmanship, second hand items (Nudie Jeans a sport, a challenge, which takes 6 months. Sustainability Report, 2017).

14 Figure 6. Nudie Jeans within the Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model

15 Analysis alter its practices when they become unsustainable. Lastly, Patagonia has always been an Analysis of Case Studies environmental brand at its core, but only recently started to follow the sustainable

fashion trend. While its products have Patagonia has been able to create always been durable and functional, it high brand resonance among its customers wasn’t until 2017 that the brand followed in through its evocative storytelling ability and other companies’ footsteps to institute its strong promotion of its environmental “Worn Wear” campaign. Due to its long- activism. Through the niche market that standing history of being an upstanding Patagonia targets, the outdoorsy and athletic organization in regards to CSR and its segment, it has manifested a community that strong vision for its future, it has been able believes in the environmental issues that it to successfully promote this trend and actively works towards solving. The enhance its resonance with its customers. company began with a very inspiring and Although it didn’t have the first mover sentimental story that has resonated among advantage in promoting the reduce, reuse, this group of people because they too feel recycle phenomenon with its products, its the same way about the environment, as it is strong community of followers have a huge part of who they are. In this way, remained loyal. Because of this, Patagonia Patagonia truly is a brand-market oriented has sustained long-term competitive brand, as it has built up its brand platform on advantages by staying true to its core environmental and sustainable core values, identity by promoting sustainable brand all while communicating with and involving stewardship. its customers in every change or innovation that the company strives to make. It also uses emotional branding in order to convey While Uniqlo has strived to be a its identity through sustainable means to purely technology driven organization and is preserve, protect, and nurture the currently the fourth largest fashion retailer in environment. the world, it has fallen short in producing While Patagonia has tried to be as enhanced brand resonance among its transparent as possible since it was first customers. It is true that the organization is founded, in 2015, it was exposed by PETA sustainable in its supply chain processes and that it was sourcing wool from farms that seeks to create a better world based on its were found guilty of mistreating the lambs core values of quality, universality, and (O’Rourke & Strand, 2016). Doug Freeman, simplicity in its products, but this is not Patagonia’s COO, stated in response to the enough in order to create a loyal community. crisis that “we have a toolbox and we Uniqlo does not possess a distinct identity, opened it up to the industry, but it’s naïve to as its core values are not unique and can be think we have everything figured out” imitated by competitors (Gromark & Melin, (O’Rourke & Strand, 2016). However, the 2011). This can be explained by a lack of company has a track record of being symbols in their strategy. extremely honest and open about its supply To illustrate, Uniqlo has struggled in chain and never has sought to hide or deny being successful in creating brand resonance any of its transgressions. Therefore, internationally, especially in America, due Patagonia consistently seeks to improve and to its laser focus on producing the most

16 affordable but high quality clothing for the Nudie Jeans is a force to be reckoned price conscious consumer. While Uniqlo has with in the sustainable fashion world, as it “a distinct Japanese flavor that other can enhance its brand resonance due to its companies [are] not in a position to copy”, strong sense of brand identity, core values, giving it an advantage, these ideals may not and personality. From the very beginning, have translated well across cultures (Coban the company has had a strong environmental et al, 2015). After failing to open a few , which led it to use only 100% stores on the east coast the first time around, organic cotton in its products. Nudie Jeans US CEO Shin Odake stated that in an effort took this as an opportunity to incorporate to re-introduce the brand to the US market raw, untreated material as part of its identity, that “"flagship stores on high-profile streets even though this concept “wasn't sought are extremely important to the brand outside after by the public” (Nudie Jeans, 2018). of Japan… They make a statement” (Coban Because of its need to be unconventional, et al, 2015). Thus, Uniqlo had to rethink its Nudie Jeans has been a frontrunner of the strategy and re-define the brand for the sustainable fashion concept since it started American market, since its identity wasn’t to turn all of its stores into “repair shops” in understood by Westerners. 2013, offering repair services to preserve Lastly, Uniqlo also uses its and care for all Nudie clothing. Due to this, “LifeWear” philosophy to recycle and it is very differentiated from competitors as donate clothing that is still wearable, but this it has believed in its sustainable fashion seems to merely follow the sustainable mission from the start. fashion trend. Norms, rules and humility are Furthermore, Nudie set a lofty goal important in Japanese culture and in 2012 to become the most transparent sustainability, as part of a CSR initiative, company in the world by showing how and seems to be an item that needs to be checked where its products were being created off on a list, rather than an added emotional (Nudie Jeans Sustainability Report, 2017). element to Uniqlo’s identity. Additionally, Even after it set out to accomplish this, “as Uniqlo only focuses on its innovation, of 2013, Nudie had not fully realized its technological advancements, and sustainable vision, but was still arguably more product creation through its “Unlocking the transparent about its supply chain than, for Power of Clothing” story. As stated by example, transparency frontrunner Kapferer, “unlike a network of cognitions, Patagonia” (Zanden & Hansson, 2015). brands are emotional bonds. If they do not Transparency has become a for drive emotions, they are just the name of a organizations that wish to sustain product and not a brand as shown by competitive advantages. While Nudie’s neurosciences” (Kapferer, 2012). The emphasis on transparency may be too sustainable aspect of the organization hasn’t strong, it should strive to create an been readily communicated or promoted to emotional connection with its customers, its consumers as much as Patagonia has otherwise it may take away from the done, for instance, but it still is a strong core company’s ability to enhance resonance. value of the brand. Besides the challenges When Nudie's transparency project, known that Uniqlo may have, the company does as its Production Guide was launched, have the capacity to produce brand company representatives noticed a lack of resonance with its customers if it strives to customer response, explaining that build up its brand internally and become a consumers are mainly interested in the look, market-brand oriented organization. fit and quality of the product (Engels-

17 Zandén & Hansson, 2015). It has also been received, with a few qualitative open-ended argued that this research had been done responses, from participants that were shortly after the launch of the Production located in Europe (51%), America (27%), Guide in mid-2013 (Engels-Zandén & Asia (11%), and other countries (11%) in Hansson, 2015). order to better understand their perceptions Lastly, Nudie Jeans has created its about sustainable fashion. When asked what business from the inside-out, or rather from companies come to mind when consumers a brand-oriented perspective, and has left think of sustainable fashion, the responses out the vital aspect of appeasing the wants were overwhelming and the most common and needs of its consumers. The creative company named was ‘Patagonia’ (23%). director of Nudie Jeans, Maria Levin, has Additionally, 52% of respondents stated that commented that “since starting up back in they have heard of Patagonia before. The 2001, we have remained focused on issues second most commonly named company around sustainability and the environment was H&M (12%) and then Nudie Jeans regardless of the demands of the market or (8%). However, interestingly enough, 23% our customers, in a time when price has of respondents also said that they either been a key factor” (Nudie Jeans, n.d., could not think of a company that promoted online). However, Nudie has capitalized on sustainable fashion or just could not think of the shifting mindset of the consumer and any off the top of their head. Uniqlo was was one of the first companies to foresee a only mentioned once. new trend that is here to stay. If Nudie is Furthermore, consumers were asked able to continue moving in a direction if they prefer durable and timeless fashion to towards brand-market orientation, and trendy, of the moment fashion and 51.5% of remember to keep the consumer in mind, it consumers said that they choose durable can sustain long-term competitive clothing most of the time, with 23.2% advantages. saying that they always prefer it. When As seen in these case studies, each consumers were asked about Patagonia brand has struggled with at least one offering repair services and whether it was element of the new model. This does not an added value or not, a common comment mean that they are not strong brands that are was, for example: unable to produce brand resonance, but there are different emphases placed on each “I think it's an important added element. Each brand either places value to its brand, because they are importance on certain elements in their disrupting the disposable fashion strategy and not others. Overall, if the phenomenon and doing things company utilizes all eight elements differently” and “it fits the brands effectively as a part of their branding values and further strengthens its strategy, it can be characterized as a positioning as sustainable and eco- successful sustainable brand. The stronger friendly outdoor fashion”. the emphasis on each element, the stronger the brand resonance. Other consumers commented on the fact that other companies are also using Analysis of Questionnaire Results repair services as an added value, such as by saying:

From the questionnaire, 100 quantitative consumer insights were

18 “Yes, this is a nice idea that quite a as people have purchasing power few brands are trying to implement”, however, they will go and buy the whereas others have never heard newest best thing. The focus must be about it before: “I've never heard on the timelessness of the product, about that in other clothing and the product cannot fall into the companies. It's really [an] important trendy trap, only being worn for a value... because of less waste”. few months then disposed of for something newer”. Overall, a vast majority of consumers said they think it is important, This is a mindset that we are seeing and even when price is at a premium, this as being created by these sustainable fashion respondent finds it worth it to still purchase: companies, and that needs to be addressed by other brands, in order to stay ahead of the “It is kind of a preventative means to competition. make you buy less. However, what you buy really lasts and you try to preserve it, cause it was expensive. Discussion and Conclusion Also, as you build the attachment to the clothes, it is hard to throw it The aim of this paper was to explore away and that's when the repair if it is possible for a sustainable brand to service comes [in] handy”. enhance its brand resonance through promoting the sustainable fashion and anti- Overall, 83.3% of consumers would consumerism concepts. Our findings show like to see more companies that promote this that brands who can successfully deploy and sustainable fashion/anti-consumption trend. implement the sustainable elements outlined When asked if they believe that we should in the Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model consume less as a society, a great response can be used to enhance brand resonance. As received was: seen in the case study, these companies, Patagonia, Uniqlo and Nudie Jeans, “[I] completely agree but I also implemented new practices in the era of think that the whole idea of being mass production and consumption. eco friendly/ does not start Patagonia and Nudie Jeans were found to with buying all the eco friendly stuff incorporate each element of the Sustainable but with minimizing your own Brand Stewardship Model into their consumption and thinking twice branding strategy. This is exemplified whether you really need what you through introducing the need for repair, are buying”. reuse and recycle programs as part of the circular economy, which help to increase Also, another consumer gave their customer engagement and eventually lead to own definition of what sustainable fashion enhanced brand resonance. Consumers are should become: growing more concerned with the wellbeing of our planet and want to contribute by “Sustainable fashion has to go purchasing products that are produced safely mainstream/into big-box stores if we and sustainably, with no additional harm to are, as a society on the whole, society and the environment. As a result, focused on consuming less… as long these programs make customers feel involved, engaged and are contributing to

19 preserving and nurturing the environment, states that customers needs and wants should creating a brand-consumer community. be satisfied within the limits of the However, although these brands company's brand identity. Because our were the first movers in creating durable resources are limited, but there is a need to products that last, realizing the importance produce, it is essential to have limits. This for the environment, not all of the paper specifically exemplifies brands who companies fully implement and promote imposed limits on themselves to satisfy sustainable practices. A key finding is that consumer needs and wants within their Patagonia and Nudie Jeans are utilizing each brand identities - in this case, sustainability. element, particularly emotional storytelling They do this by promoting the concept of and their identities as part of their history, to anti-consumption, but produce products of alter consumer behavior towards anti- higher quality and endurance. In this way, consumption. Patagonia and Nudie Jeans are higher prices do not only serve as a more brand-oriented in this way, whereas preventative means to purchase multiple Uniqlo is more market-driven. While Uniqlo products, but also supplement this idea to has been analyzed as a sustainable brand, a buy less and increase products’ longevity, so better distinction is that it is merely a brand as not to consume unnecessarily. that uses sustainable solutions. The brand therefore, does not promote this anti- consumerism approach, but produces Theoretical Implications fashion in a sustainable way. From analyzing the brand through the model, it The new proposed Sustainable Brand does not have an emotional storytelling Stewardship Model describes the internal element or unique core values related to (brand strategic action) and external sustainability that would create a clear brand (possible consumer reactions) that a brand identity that is needed to enhance brand can create to enhance brand resonance. resonance. Uniqlo does not use symbols According to Keller, “the strongest brands (logo as a badge for consumers to wear), excel in all six of [the CBBE] areas… With therefore it is hard to identify its products. the CBBE Model, the most valuable brand- The brand may be using sustainability as a building block, brand resonance, occurs prerequisite CSR practice, in order to build when all the other brand-building blocks are up a clean track record and appease completely synchronized with customers’ consumers who are concerned with the needs, wants, and desires. In other words, environment. An important aspect that brand resonance reflects a completely Uniqlo seems to lack is the repair service, harmonious relationship between customers which does not help in engaging customers and brand” (Keller, 2001). The Sustainable as it does with Patagonia and Nudie Jeans. Brand Stewardship Model contributes to the In this way, Patagonia and Nudie Jeans can field of brand equity in that it focuses solely sustain competitive advantages with on a sustainable and/or environmental brand enhanced brand resonance due to the and how it may enhance its resonance combination of both the “heart” and “head” through specific elements, in order to satisfy elements found in the Sustainable Brand customers within the confines of the brand’s Stewardship Model (Keller, 2001). identity. While Keller’s CBBE pyramid Lastly, an authentic sustainable model is more static, the Sustainable Brand brand incorporates all of these elements, but Stewardship Model proposes that each of the also uses brand-market orientation, which elements are interrelated, which makes it

20 more dynamic. It also can be used outside of and aligned within the model successfully the CBBE model as a way to define and and as part of a cohesive branding strategy. align the sustainable brand. A sustainable Additionally, this is only one model that can brand can define its internal strategy using be used in determining whether a sustainable the eight elements, which can then be placed brand has the elements necessary to achieve within the CBBE model. Therefore, in brand resonance, and how these elements combination with consumers perceptions can work together to enhance brand and the internal brand’s strategy, the brand resonance, thus leading to sustained can enhance its brand resonance. competitive advantages for the company. Furthermore, Keller describes that a brand derives its power and value directly from customers themselves (Keller, 2001). Future Research In this way, the Sustainable Brand Stewardship Model can be applied to any The results from this research sustainable brand, but can only truly create indicate that further development and wider- brand resonance when it is combined with scale studies are needed in order to make a consumer perceptions. Since this new model generalization. Furthermore, future research takes into consideration brand and market would benefit by testing the Sustainable orientation, or “head” and “heart” Brand Stewardship Model. Moreover, it components, it helps in determining brand would be interesting to see this research resonance. To further this point, Keller says reach other industries. that “strong brands blend product performance and imagery to create a rich, varied, but complementary set of consumer References responses to the brand” (Keller, 2001). Aaker, D. (2015). American Marketing Finally, it takes time for brands to Association, Why Uniqlo is Winning, create awareness amongst consumers so that Available through: LUSEM Library website, they can understand and formulate their own http://www.lusem.lu.se/library [Accessed 12 beliefs and attitudes towards the brand October 2018] (Keller, 2001). The history is important to identity element is therefore imperative to Åslund Hedman, E. (2018). Comparative include in the new model as a basis for what Life Cycle Assessment of Jeans: A case the sustainable brand is built on. The time study performed at Nudie Jeans, Skolan för spent to build the brand correlates with the industriell teknik och management, KTH strength of the resonance that can be created. Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm, Available through: http://kth.diva- Managerial Implications portal.org/smash/get/diva2:1221104/FULLT EXT01.pdf [Accessed 12 October 2018]

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Gromark, J. & Melin, F. (2011). The underlying dimensions of brand orientation Keller, L.K. (2006). Measuring Brand and its impact on financial performance, Equity, in Handbook of Marketing Research Journal of Brand Management, vol. no.6, - Do's and Don'ts, eds. Rajiv Grover and pp. 394–410, Available through: LUSEM Marco Vriens, pp. 546-568. Library website, Nudie Jeans Marketing AB. (2018). http://www.lusem.lu.se/library [Accessed 12 Available Online: October 2018] https://www.nudiejeans.com/ [Accessed 12 October 2018] Gromark, J. & Melina, F. (2011). The underlying dimensions of brand orientation Nudie Jeans Sustainability Report. (2016). and its impact on financial performance, Available Online: Journal of Brand Management, vol. no.6, https://cdn.nudiejeans.com/dist/files/Nudie- pp. 394–410, Available through: LUSEM Jeans-Sustainability-Report-2016.pdf Library website, [Accessed 8 October 2018] http://www.lusem.lu.se/library [Accessed 12 October 2018]. Nudie Jeans Sustainability Report. (2017). Available Online: Ind, N. (2007). Living the Brand: How to https://cdn.nudiejeans.com/media/files/Susta transform every member of your inability-Report-2017-Nudie-Jeans.pdf organisation into a brand champion, London [Accessed 8 October 2018] & Philadelphia: Kogan Page Limited

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23 Appendix – Online Questionnaire

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