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Is an Extensive Island, Rising to Over 300M, Its Central, Northern and Western Areas Provide Rough Walking

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Is an Extensive Island, Rising to Over 300M, Its Central, Northern and Western Areas Provide Rough Walking OUTER ISLES LEWIS SEA-CLIFFS, Scarp: Scarp (NA 970 152) is an extensive island, rising to over 300m, its central, northern and western areas provide rough walking. In normal weather expect much thrashing though heather and bog. All of the crags described are sea-cliffs and the best access is to stay close to the coast or to contour around the many bluffs above the lower ground. The authors made a landing on the beach opposite the small island of Cearstaigh on the north coast located at NA 964 167. This is a good landing and camping spot but far removed from some of the best areas. The rock is mostly Lewisian gneiss, with much quartz intrusion. Along the western and south-western coast there are several promising looking geodhas some with impending walls. The most extensive area with potential is from Tarta Geodha (as yet unexplored) through to the flat headland of Manais. The most convenient landing and camping place would be on the Manais headland (NA 969 140) which would give easier and relatively quick access to the main areas. There is naturally occurring water on the island but caution made us take our own. The island was abandoned in 1971, although some of the old houses in the village have been restored, and there is much evidence of previous occupation in many surprising areas, and of the hard and uncompromising life of the inhabitants. Manais Wall Area: This extends across three distinct areas, north, main and south. The main area is the most extensive. Manais Wall North (NA 958 140): Scramble down to the northern end of the tidal platform. Keys to the World 22m HVS 5b **. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 13 Jul 2012. Start from the platform at the far left end of the crag where the two small slabs meet. Climb the left-hand slab to the overhanging corner on the left; surmount this to the second overhang and on to the top. No Consolation 22m HVS 5a *. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 13 Jul 2012. From the same start as the previous route, climb the right-hand slab to the black overhang on the right side. Make unusual moves through to the upper cracks. Finish on the left headwall. Constrictive! Weymouth 22m VS 4c. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 13 Jul 2012. Starts where a step up needs to be made on the approach traverse. Go up over easy ground to the base of a slabby corner. Climb the short headwall above. Manais Wall Main: (NA 958 140) Non-tidal The first route starts at the left end of the crag, right of the brown wall. A Girl Called Cecil 17m VS 4c *. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 11 Jul 2012. Climb the right-facing corner at the left edge of a large scooped white triangular wall. Tide Turner 18m HVS 5a. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 9 Jul 2012. The scooped white triangular wall is followed in its centre until a move right to a short niche. An overhanging crack above is climbed on layaways. Cabbage, Sweat and Micturation 18m Severe 4b. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 10 Jul 2012. Climb the flake line which borders the right side of the large scooped white triangular wall. Hard Work Kills Horses 18m HVS 5b. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 10 Jul 2012. The double open-book corners. Start on the left and climb to a large ledge at the base of the first open book. Climb this to a second ledge and on to the top. Land of Milk and Honey 20m HVS 5b **. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 11 Jul 2012. Climbs the central right-facing corner of the imposing main wall. Solarized 24m E2 5b **. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 13 Jul 2012. Follow the broken fault-line slightly right of centre in the large imposing wall to an obvious small ledge below the headwall. Traverse traverse right under the headwall to the cracked depression leading to the top, sustained! Six Pence in the Pie 14m HVS 5a. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 9 Jul 2012. Climb through the X shaped cracks direct. Chapter 109 13m HVS 5a. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 9 Jul 2012. Start on the left corner of the light brown slab. Move to the centre and climb to the notch in the skyline. Calendar Girl 13m VS 5a *. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 9 Jul 2012. The bow shaped corner bordering the narrow slab of Rocket Ma-a-an. Climb the corner to the top. Rocket Ma-a-an 12m V.Diff. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 9 Jul 2012. Follow the laid back narrow slab on the left side of the first bay reached from the descent. Wicket Chronicles 12m VS 4b. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 9 Jul 2012. The in-cut crack on the right side of the first bay from the descent. Climb up ledges to the narrow crack. Climb this on big holds to the top. Manais Wall South: (NA 960 139) Non-tidal Abseil descent The first route starts in the black geodha to the left of the main wall. Donald John MacLennan 21m HVS 4c. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 11 Jul 2012. This route is located in the black geodha to the left of the main wall and is on its left wall. Climb the slabby wall of the black geodha following the line of “cemented in place” blocks. Good gear at half-height. The following climbs are located on the main wall to the right of the black geodha. Philosophy of Risk 12m H.Severe 4c. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 10 Jul 2012. Climbs the second crack along from the left arete climbed on ledges and finger jams. Whiff Away 12m Severe. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 10 Jul 2012. Climbs the third crack along from the wall’s left arete. Canal Dreams 12m Severe 4b. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 11 Jul 2012. Climb the fourth crack along from the wall’s left arete. Caolas Cearstaigh Crag: Lies directly opposite the small island of Cearstaigh, adjacent to the beach. Access is by walking down from either side. Caolas Cearstaigh Crag East (NA 962 168): Scramble down to the eastern end of the non tidal platform. Don’t Fake Life 9m E1 5b *. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 12 Jul 2012. The narrow in-cut recess at the left end of the crag, on superb light grey rock. Number 7 the Beeches 12m E2 5c **. Paul Headland, Keith Archer. 12 Jul 2012. Climbs the series of short slabs and overhangs in the narrow niche, above a shallow pool. Start on the undercut right side of the pool with a powerful move to start, then traverse the quartz band to the niche, climbed direct. Ticks R’ Us 17m Severe 4b. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 12 Jul 2012. The short recessed area immediately left of the central overhang. Start from the toe of the buttress and trend left towards a short head wall. Follow this to the top. Caolas Cearstaigh Crag West (NA 962 168): Scramble down to the western end of the platform. Jacaranda 24m E2 5b ***. Keith Archer, Paul Headland. 12 Jul 2012. Start at the weakness at the right end of the ledge that runs from the central corner. Pull through this, then traverse easily to the base of the overhanging corner. Move up to beneath the overhang, then move out left. Powerful layback moves on good holds lead to the final finishing corner. LEWIS SEA-CLIFFS, Painted Geo Area, Veinous Wall (NB 0102 3341): A topo was sent by Michael Hutton. This included 5 new routes. A Step in the Deep Blue 25m HVS 5a **. Martin Kocsis, Mike Hutton. May 2012. A swinging hand-traverse along the lowest quartz break (below Veinous Trap, 1995) with steep, hard moves to start and steeper, juggy ones to finish. Mysteries of the Deep 25m E1 5b **. Andy Turner, Mike Hutton. May 2012. Follow a vague crack in the left side of the recess up to a small roof. Turn this on the left with a difficult move, then climb the wall above to the top. Sea Shepherd 25m VS 4c **. Andy Turner, Mike Hutton. May 2012. Climb the crack on the right side of the recess, to the roof. Climb out on the right stepping onto the slab. Follow a right-facing corner to the top. Fishy 25m E4 5c **. Paul Mitchell, Mike Hutton. May 2012. Start 3m to the left of Peeping Reaper. Climb to the overlap and fix some dubious protection. Crux moves round the overlap lead to better holds and good gear. Follow the wall above on good crimps, then veer right towards the top on improving holds. A fine route despite the bold start. Peeping Reaper 25m E3 6a **. Andy Turner, Mike Hutton. May 2012. Make awkward moves off the ground into a left-facing corner, climbed to a good jug. Step rightwards into an obvious left-facing corner follow this pleasantly to the top. Ard More Mangurstadh, Eilean Geo (NB 0130 3345): A topo was sent by Michael Hutton with the following new routes and existing routes. A Crackwork Orange 20m E2 5b ***. Andy Turner, Martin Kocsis. Jun 2012. Follow a finger crack in the centre of the wall (well left of the following routes) with an awkward move at two-thirds height. At the top of the crack, step out right and follow a groove in the arete to the top. On the big slab to the right are Takeaway (2003) and Breakout (1997), then the following route. Wish You Were Here 20m VS 4b **. Martin Kocsis, Mike Hutton. Jun 2012.
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