December 16-31, 2010 ISSUE 031

A bimonthly on-line newspaper by the Media Diversity Centre, a project of African Woman and Child Feature Service

Taita Taveta caves where Kenyatta consulted

the oracles Kino caves in Taita Taveta where the first Kenyan President Mzee Jomo Kenyatta (Inset) and other freedom fighters used to hide during the struggle for By BENSON MWANGA avoid arrest and strategise on how to wrest independence. The late Tanzanian President Julius Nyerere also used to visit the power from the colonialists between 1950s caves to strategize for independence of his country. Picture: BENSON MWANGA Not many Kenyans are aware that the amaz- and 1960s were the late Jaramogi Oginga ing and glamorous cave in Taita-Taveta Odinga, Tom Mboya, Achieng Oneko, Bil- County played a major role in the country’s dad Kagia and Mbiyu Koinange. a sorry state of neglect hence burying its Area residents, among them three local liberation struggle. past significance amid calls for its preser- MPs expressed their wish to have the site However, located in the sleepy village of Freedom fighters vation as a historical site. along with other caves on the Taita Hills Mwanguwi, Wundanyi Division, one will Local freedom fighters who hosted Once a popular hiding place for freedom documented and converted into a tourist find caves that once served as a secret hide- Kenyatta and fellow liberators were among fighters, the cave has been encroached on attraction. out for prominent freedom fighters includ- others Zephania Mkuji Nyambu on whose and its once flourishing vegetation cover The legislators who include Mwatate ing the late President Mzee Jomo Kenyatta. land the cave is located, Woresha Mengo, cleared to pave way for farming, beating its MP Calista Mwatela who is also Education It is unfortunate that Kino caves have Jimmy Mwambichi and Fredrick Maseghe. historical value. Assistant Minister, Dan Mwazo (Voi) and not been gazetted as a historical site even Today, they are all dead. It has now degenerated into a den for Thomas Mwadeghu (Wundanyi) are call- though they have a unique history. Nyambu was the Kanu chairman and wild animals like bats, squirrels and mon- ing on the Kenya Tourism Board (KTB) to Yet it is within these caves that impor- founder member of the Taita-Hills Asso- goose. Residents have accused successive identify and package rare features in the tant meetings which included intense strat- ciation. governments of neglecting the site despite picturesque Taita Hills. egies on how Kenyans would be free from The Kino Cave stands poignantly on its historical importance in the country’s They want KTB to include the sites in the colonial administration took place. one of the highest peaks of the idyllic, pic- liberation struggle. the tourism circuit as an initiative that will The deep natural hollow and spacious turesque Taita Hills. The Hills are home to “This is the place where Kenyatta and generate income for the local community. underground with an opening to the sur- several holy shrines of the Wataita, some his colleagues would hide when the colo- Other interesting sites include Wesu face inside of a cliff was the place where of them hidden in a labyrinth of caves. De- nial administration was after them,” says Rock, Shomoto Caves and Mbololo For- meetings took place. spite the impressive history, there is noth- Mr Scaver Kiwoi, 75, pointing the cave to est. Others include the one storey build- Besides Kenyatta, other celebrated free- ing to show for these important facilities. members of the Press who visited the his- ing in Voi town where the late Kenyatta dom heroes who frequented the cave to A visit by The Reject found the cave in torical site recently. Continued on page 2

Management and staff of African Woman and Child Read more Reject stories online at and Media Diversity Centre wishes all readers www.mediadiversityafrica.org a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 2 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Caves where freedom fighters consulted the oracles Continued from page 1 used to get accommodation in Majengo area as well as War Memorial Cemeteries in Voi, Maktau and Taveta. Others include churches like St Marks in Sagala location which has been converted into Rev Ray Memorial Church Museum and Mahoo ACK Church built by the early missionaries in Taveta town. The heroes would come to the district to seek among other things support from the local community and spiritual guid- ance from local traditional medicine men to overcome the colonial administration. Spiritual healing Though many Kenyans might not be aware of the long relationship Kenyatta had with the Taita community, the founding fa- ther of the nation is said to have occasion- ally frequented the district to seek spiritual guidance from traditional medicine men. Says Kiwoi: “At that time Taita Taveta District had become a place of pilgrimage for scores of leaders seeking traditional healing because the area produced seers and medicine men whose fame spread far Kenya’s freedom fighters who were detained in Kapenguria after they were and wide.” arrested during the emergency. From left: Kungu Karumba, Bildad Kaggia, He adds: “The area produced some of Achieng Oneko, Jomo Kenyatta, Moi (not among the Kapenguria 6 but in the the famous witchdoctors in Coastal region picture), Paul Ngei and Fred Kubai. Below: Local tourists enjoying the sights among them tribal leaders like Mwakisha- at the Kino caves. Pictures: Reject correspondent and Benson Mwanga luwa Mkamba and Richard Mwangeka.” The freedom fighters came to acquire goat’s meat that was coated with protec- Kenyatta is said to have had charms and consulted the oracle from time tive charms. Libation — a ritual pouring a soft spot for the community to time on various issues pertaining to their of a drink as an offering to a god or deity known for obedience as evi- welfare and unity of Kenyans including de- — was done using the local brew Mban- denced by the appointment of velopment matters. gara, to appease ancestors and gods in the late Dr Eric Mngola and Explains Kiwoi: “Kenyatta and other he- order to make the charms effective to the Mwatate MP Major (Rtd) roes sought protective charms from local user. Marsden Madoka as his per- witch doctors to avert arrests from the co- He says the intestines would indicate sonal physician and bodyguard lonial government.” when the mzungu (white man) would go respectively. back to his mother land (Europe) and leave The Kenyatta family also Cave life Kenya to Kenyans. owns the expansive Gicheha “The results would tell the truth about Farm in Taveta Sub-District. The freedom heroes also came to seek the government to honour the coun- what would happen to the enemy and Kenyatta High School in Mwatate was also support from the Taita Taveta community try’s heroes and heroines by improving would also give advice about the future,” named in his honour. in the quest for independence and fight for on their standards of livelihood as a way says Mulekenyi. Residents argue that despite the fact land rights. of appreciating their contribution to the He explains: “At one point, the tradi- that Taita Taveta played an important role Kenyatta and his colleagues would hide society. tionalist predicted that Kenyatta would at in the fight against colonial rule, the com- and sleep in the caves for fear of being ar- Presenting his views recently to the Task- one time be arrested and jailed for going munity has not benefited from successive rested by the colonialists. force on Criteria and Modalities of honour- against the British rule but would later be governments. “They would light fire in the cave at ing National Heroes and Heroines, Kayanda released and become the first President of They say preservation of the cave as a night and roast cassava and sweet potatoes said some people had sacrificed a lot for the the republic of Kenya.” tourist site would earn the residents rev- among other indigenous food to supple- country but had been neglected. The medicine men’s strange powers enue and uplift their standards of living. ment the little rations provided for them forced people of all walks of life to come “Despite the fact that Mzee Nyambu and by their hosts,” explains Kiwoi. Neglect to the district to consult the oracle and others hosted prominent heroes, their fami- Three women would cook and serve Families of most freedom fighters were also seek protective charms to overcome lies are still poor as a result of lack of educa- indigenous food to the heroes like maize, languishing in poverty despite their im- enemies. tion and employment,” says Julius Righa, 67, kimanga, maduma, pure and ndoto among mense contribution. He petitioned the “Kenyatta often consulted the tradi- the eldest son of the local hero, Nyambu. others. government to do something about their tional medicine men from time to time The family blames their woes on local Earthen pots and other utensils that welfare. on various issues pertaining to unity, land MPs during the Kenyatta regime for fail- were used to cook for the freedom fighters Kayanda decried the habit of honouring rights and the general welfare of Kenyans. ing to champion the interests of the local were reportedly taken away from the cave people after they are long dead saying this The power of the medicine man was in community. and preserved at the Kenya National Mu- reflected badly on the country but suggest- full control of almost every aspect of life “Kenyatta was willing to assist families seums of Kenya, Mombasa. ed that family members of the deceased be including development at that time,” ex- of heroes who assisted him in time of need “The heroes slept on dried banana assisted by the state. plains Mulekenyi. but the legislators then were not interested leaves and sometimes would take night “The government should also establish He says witchcraft and sorcery are still and instead pursued their own selfish in- walks where they were able to mingle with a heroes’ square at the district level in rec- very strong and held dear in spite of the in- terests,” says Righa. people,” say the area residents. ognition of local heroes who do not qualify digenous people having embraced Christi- The Mau Mau chairman in the district Those interviewed say traditional medi- to be national heroes,” Kyanda suggested. anity. Mzee Christopher Kayanda has asked cine men mixed charms and gave them In the past, the caves were used as holy to a goat before it was slaughtered. After shrines but today they have been rejected slaughtering the animal, the medicine man The founding father of the nation is said to have and some are used as criminal dens. At one would examine its intestines and release time a most wanted gangster was gunned predictive results to the heroes. occasionally frequented the district to seek spiritual down by police and several of his accom- One of Nyambu’s sons, Mr Charles plices arrested inside the Shomoto caves Mulekenyi says the heroes would eat the guidance from traditional medicine men. near Wundanyi town. ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth 3 AWC bags awards at KEMEP

Dr Kilemi Mwiria (third right), Assistant Minister By Mercy Mumo and for Higher Education joins the winning team from Florence Sipalla African Woman and Child (AWC) Abjata Khalif (third left), Coordinator Garissa Content Centre The African Woman and Child Features and Jane Godia (right), Managing Editor Kenyan Service (AWC) was shinning at the Kenya Woman for a photo session. They are also joined Mr Charles Kerich (left), chairman Kenya Media Media Network on Population and De- Network on Population and Development (KEMEP), velopment (KEMEP) fourth annual gala Mercy Mumo, sub editor (second left) and Florence award ceremony held in Nairobi. Sipalla, programme officer and sub editor at AWC. Abjata Khalif and Jane Godia bagged Below: Dr Kilemi Mwiria (centre), Assistant awards that included trophies, state of the Minister for Higher Education hands over the art laptops and mobile phones at gala cer- trophy, computer and mobile phone to Jane Godia emony held in Nairobi. who won in the special category of KEMEP Awards. Khalif who is coordinator of the Garissa Looking on is Mr Charles Kerich (left), chairman Content Centre won the best print journal- KEMEP. Pictures: Reject Correspondent. ist in the FGM category for the headline story ‘Horrors of the Wedding night’. The Godia, who is also the Managing Edi- retrogressive practices such as FGM be- on the need to involve men in the gender story which was published in the Reject tor of the said paper, was awarded for her cause they want to save votes. He argued: agenda. Khalif’s article on men protesting newspaper highlighted the plight of young contribution in highlighting gender and “Society must respect family values and the negative effects of FGM on women is men in northern Kenya who endure psy- development issues and particularly in practices that infringe on women’s rights an example of such efforts. Mwathe high- chological trauma from the effects of FGM pushing for women’s empowerment and should be discouraged as they interfere lighted the need for journalists to make on their brides which in turn affects their advancement. with progress.” the family recognised as a pillar of vision marriages. The event was graced by many digni- According chief judge, Ms Carolyne 2030. Nasra Hussein from The Star FM won taries and journalists who are keen to see Kwamboka the event was getting bigger Other dignitaries at the function in- the best radio journalist on FGM. Hus- issue of population and development high- with every subsequent year. “The entries cluded assistant minister Youth and sein and Abjata both come from north- lighted in the media. have grown tremendously from 15 media Sports Affairs Kabando wa Kabando, ern Kenyan and their stories were a clear Speaking at the function, Assistant houses in 2008 to 24 this year and we are Patricia Nyaundi CEO Truth Justice and indication that the practice is an issue of Minister For Higher Education, Dr Kilemi proud of the work Kenyan journalists are Reconciliation Commission and Dr Bon- concern in the area. Mwiria asked journalists to continue high- doing.” iface K’Oyugi, CEO National Coordinat- Godia won in the special category un- lighting population issues in their work She challenged development partners ing Agency for Population and Develop- der the KenyanWoman, an online newspa- because they play a role in determining in government and non-governmental ment. per published monthly by African Woman government budgets for essential services organisations to extend support on issue The award ceremony was officiated by and Child Feature Service. There were three such as schools and hospitals. based journalism. the KEMEP chairman Charles Kerich. winners in this category who included Mwiria said the war against FGM can Speaking on the need to involve men in Among the key sponsors were United Na- Njoki Karuoya (Gender Agenda) and Dann only be won if MPs stopped political reen- the fight for gender equality, Chair of the tions Population Fund (UNFPA), Safa- Okoth (Panorama) both of the Standard gineering of the practice. He admonished National Commission on Gender and De- ricom and German Foundation for World Group. politicians who do not speak up against velopment Dr Regina Mwathe emphasised Population (DSW). 4 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Art of dhow building threatened with extinction By KIGONDU NDAVANO

When observed at sunset from the Malindi Bay beach wall, shoreline waters are nor- mally interesting as several wind propelled dhows emerge from one side of the Vasco da Gama pillar with their white sails shin- ing through the winds at speed. Those watching are able to see tired fishermen doing their last manoeuvres with the large white sails to slow the dhows before bringing them to a stop. The dhows create an attractive im- pression of the coastal sea. The colour- ful wooden vessels dominate the shore- line and sandy beaches whether they are abandoned, floating, parked or undergo- ing repairs. Decline Today, however, there are not many dhows at the Coast. It seems that the tradi- tional dhow building industry, an art that has been historically popular among the Swahili communities in the Coast now faces collapse in Malindi and other parts of the region. Since the early 1960s, the Malindi shore- lines have for years rivalled Lamu Island when it comes to dhow building activities. There have been large yards up the beach plots of Watamu, Mayungu, Ngomeni and Malindi boat builders busy repairing a dhow at the Malindi Bay Beach. Since the government banned harvest of hard wood Malindi Bay. from Kipini Forest where the Mng’ambo tree, which is a major source of wood for boat building. Good wood shortages are also Presently silence pervades the shoreline. forcing many dhow owners to resort to cannibalising old boats to repair the serviceable ones. Picture: Kigondu Ndavano The sea has been eroding large sections of the coastline denying dhow builders and di coastline because repairs for the vessels four years ago. The vessel has remained in and orders for new vessels has reduced. fishermen space to park the vessels. The have become expensive due to the high disrepair at the Mbuyuni Beach for lack of Says Shari: “Young people who learnt largely growing tourism industry has seen cost and shortage of good timber. hard wood that is supposed to be used for the art from their fathers have turned to the beach plots owners opt to build hotels and Numerous makuti sheds which in the repairs. more lucrative openings in tourism contrib- villas up to the high water mark. past covered many a shoreline shield- Six years ago Malindi Bay Beach which uting to the sharp decrease in skilled dhow Marine environmentalist, Mr Athman ing dhows under repair from the sun are covers at least half a kilometre would have builders.” Seif argues: “Modern, lighter and more at- today few while many have collapsed on about 15 dhows under construction. To- A Malindi boat builder Mr Shafi Ali, 50, tractive fibre glass boats have gained pop- abandoned vessels. There are certain places day not even a single vessel is repaired. Few remembers learning the craft under the ularity drastically reducing the percentage where bushes have covered many of the dhow enthusiasts have been making fresh guidance of his late father, Mr Ali Ahmed of dhows built annually.” now rotting fishing dhows. orders for new boats. Fundi. Ali’s father earned the name ‘Fun- Seif, who owns two fibres glass vessels Malindi Beach Management Unit chair- “Many dhows have been abandoned di’ from his unmatched skills in building notes that large and small dhows in vari- man, Mr Yunus Aboud operates a single incomplete while some builders have re- dhows in Faza Island, Lamu District. ous stages of dilapidation litter the Malin- boat after his second dhow broke down sorted to building smaller ones which do “He was a master in boat building and not have the capacity to venture deeper the stories of some of the vessels he origi- into the waters of the Indian Ocean,” notes nally constructed using some of the best Mr Hassan Msham, a fisherman. woods suitable for dhows over 80 years ago Has National Museums of Kenya “Preference for modern vessels cou- are still being told,” explains Shafi. pled with low numbers of customers Notable among these are MV Tashrifa seeking to acquire Swahili dhows seems and MV Shamimu, huge dhows that were played a role in killing the dhow? to have conspired against the traditional specifically made for fishing. dhow building culture,” explains Mr Mo- Shafi says: “My father also worked with After years of appeal to the Govern- Then, Bita had admitted the dhow hammed Bakari. He says the unavailabil- a famous boat builder Mr Bilal Bakari to ment to intervene and preserve the dhow building faced death due to new types ity of suitable indigenous wood from the build huge vessels which would be ac- building art, the National Museums of of vessels in the market. He said as a first Msaaji, Mng’ambo and Mnguvi trees has quired by wealthy merchants. He adds: Kenya nearly succeeded in the task when step towards preservation of expert de- also affected the dhow building industry. “These would be used to ferry cargo be- it proposed a programme to preserve the tails, there was need to keep records of Forests in Lamu mainland normally tween Kenya and Arabian countries.” art by identifying the remaining artisans, the various types of dhows built in the provided timber for building the vessels. Shafi admits the art of Swahili dhow documenting their work and encourag- past and locations from which they were However, heavy harvesting of the trees has building has collapsed. Dhows damaged at ing passing of the skills to the present built. left little raw material for the dhow build- sea are being left to waste without repairs. generations of young interested people. There were even plans for an exhibi- ing. The situation has been made worse by Most beaches from Lamu to South Coast The programme, however, sadly died tion which would have acted as the first a government directive that outlawed log- are littered with abandoned vessels that are at research stage some four years ago af- window for young people to be identified ging as a conservation measure. now at various stages of disintegration. ter the then curator of the Malindi Muse- and trained in dhow making before the The few boat builders who still carry Says Shafi: “The old and abandoned um, Mr Caesar Bita who had done some art dies. out the art say the little good wood which dhows have been cannibalised to provide research on the issues was transferred. Among the type of dhows Bita felt reaches the market is too expensive and wood for the few vessels being built or those According to Bita, by then the Na- needed to be preserved was the “Mtepe”. many cannot afford to buy it. undergoing repairs. This is a bad practice Malindi dhow owners say building a sim- that has destroyed the art of dhow making.” tional Museums of Kenya had sent ex- This is a vessel that was once popular in ple medium size vessel takes about a year to Dhow owners indicate that while some perts to the coast of Kenya and Zanzibar the Kenyan coast but he traced the only complete because the amount of wood fil- 30 years ago Malindi had more than 15 boat to carry out research on the dhows. single relict in Zanzibar. The dhow was tering into yards is poor and unpredictable. builders, only three remain. Others have re- “Our aim is to eventually launch ef- unique in that it was built with curved The owner of two old dhows, Mr Ab- tired or abandoned the art out of frustration forts to record the art of dhow building wood through joinery and without any dalla Shari says boat building families in caused by lack of orders, raw materials and and preserve it through working with the nails. Malindi and Lamu have abandoned the good income from the vocation. present dhow builders,” explained Bita. Compiled by Kigondu Ndavano art as fishing has become less profitable Continued on page 5 ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth 5 Art of dhow building threatened with extinction

From left: Due to wood the shortage of good wood for dhow building, the number of Continued from page 4 on minor repairs,” explains Syengo. damaged dhows abandoned at the beach in disrepair has been on the on the increase Most boat lovers prefer the expen- Increase in road transport between while the size of boats has reduced as years go by. Pictures: Kigondu Ndavano sive, lighter and longer lasting fibre coastal towns has also reduced the pop- glass vessels unlike the aged Swahili ularity of dhows. A lover of dhows Mr dhows normally built with what is de- Ali Bakari says the continued opening scribed by many as cheap wood from up of the roads connecting South and Fishing vessels also face Neem trees. Vessels built with wood North Coast has eased road transport from the Neem tree last only five years. and led to lack of interest in the boats The lighter and engine installed which for centuries remained the only fibre glass boats done in modern fac- means of transport between coastal the death knell towns and the outside. tories owned by foreigners have been By KIGONDU NDAVANO plies for the Mitumbwi which for years were the Bakari recalls when he was growing gaining popularity in the fishing, gog- main means of ferrying cargo between Kismayu gling and leisure vessels industry. up as a young boy and Malindi was one Demand for vessels can at times turn out to be in Somalia and Kiunga in the North as well as to Four years ago, the Fisheries Depart- of the most popular ports with huge interesting because seasonal fish availability other coastal towns of the South Coast. ment acquired a small fibre glass boat at locally built vessels ferrying cargo be- in the sea can attract a sudden surge in build- Various cuts of timber suitable for boat and a cost of KSh9 million. According to tween Kenya and various Arab coun- boat builders, such an amount would tries. Cargo from Kenya comprised ing of dug out canoes and simple small ves- dhow building are selected directly on the tree have been adequate for acquisition of agricultural produce including millet sels. before they are cut hence according to the boat several wooden vessels with a sail and and sorghum. Such vessels gain popularity with the builders, the now collapsing industry has a spe- outboard engines. “Huge dhows, some built by experts number of fishermen venturing out in the In- cial way of conserving trees and discourages Shafi says that to build a medium in Malindi and Lamu were busy ferry- dian Ocean. cutting of entire trees. sized fishing dhow today would take ing large amounts of cargo to and from Compared to dhows which venture deep Although the story of low production of Swa- up to one year and cost between Kenya from the Malindi coastline,” ex- into the sea, fishermen say that simple dug hili boats could be the same in Lamu, Kiunga, KSh200,000 and KSh450,000. He says plains Bakari. He says vibrancy in sea out canoes which nearly faced extinction are Watamu, Kilifi, and South Coast among other when the industry was vibrant, such a transport has become history within making a come back because of the better coastal centres where numerous boats have been vessel would cost at least KSh35,000 less than 50 years and dhows are disap- catch they record while fishing in the safer built for centuries, Malindi has suffered some of and would take a mere two months to pearing. zones closer to the shoreline. the worst dhow shortages. construct. More than 200 dhows in Malindi A fisherman in Malindi, Mr Ali Mbwanadi The changing fortunes where the fish catch Shafi says boats built with the wood alone have been withdrawn from the says at least five canoes are built by boat builders has been going down for years has also affected from indigenous tree remain in the sea Indian Ocean yet some of the vessels along the Malindi bay beach every six months. investments into dhows with many fishermen between 20 to 25 years if they are prop- were so popular about 20 years ago that The smaller vessels are easier to build and abandoning the industry all together. Those still erly maintained. they even attracted Italian investors have gained popularity due to the ease through interested in the industry are being forced to who either acquired or hired them to which they are able to venture into shallow wa- consider acquisition of larger fibre glass vessels Preservation ferry tourists to various sea excursions. ters and catch shallow water fish species. which need powerful engines. Another boat builder Mr Hussein Investors Although the few boat builders still prac- The more than 60 Malindi marine park sail- Hamadi warns that unless the govern- ticing the art, they have discovered cheaper ing goggling boats are all built in the modern ment through the National Museum of Malindi tour guide, Mr Hakim wood which they get from the neem and the simple style and with marine plywood and other Kenya initiates campaigns to preserve Aidarus, who for years hired dhows to mango trees. However, these too are becom- treated woods. the art of dhow building and brings tourists for leisure excursions notes that ing scarce due to heavy harvesting by furni- A goggling boat owner for more than 20 together the remaining builders, the the vessels which were viewed as inter- ture makers in Malindi. years, Mr Abed Twalib, admits that the Swahili esting pieces of art by the Swahili are no art will die and there will be nothing to Acquisition of many plots which hosted vessels could soon be extinct because moderni- show future generations. longer popular among foreigners. large neem and mango trees by foreigners sation of boats has forced them out of business. The two builders say they have in Wealthy Italian hotel owners inter- who fence them and cut down the trees to cre- Even the skill of repair of the broken down the past talked to the National Muse- ested in sailing closer to the shoreline ate space for construction of private villas and dhows normally inherited from family elders um of Kenya officials who promised to to entertain their guests no longer use houses has worsened the situation. consider launching a project to revive these vessels as they did in 1970s. and builders has been dying as many a youth the dhow building industry. However, “Today foreign investors have ac- The once attractive Ngalawas (small dug lack interest in dhow building. eight years since the discussions noth- quired fibre glass modern outboard or out boats with two outriggers that help them When boat builders in Malindi and Lamu ing had been done. in board luxury items from their own balance) with their imposing outriggers were busy, each would have at least three train- A Malindi based builder, Mr Patrick local builders,” notes Aidarus. which could be seen sailing into the shoreline ees, but young men are also avoiding the art all Syengo of the wooden goggling boat Aidarus like many Malindi residents after fishing expeditions are a rare find in the together. who normally ferried tourists to the says the government and National beaches. The entire Malindi coastline extend- Mr Mohammed Shari who operates three Marine parks admits that dhow build- Museums of Kenya should consider ing more than 80 kilometres has only two ves- fishing dhows says: “Young men who used to ing has been falling. the Swahili dhows as an important art sels of this kind. admire and appreciate learning boat building “In 2006, I built 10 vessels for various faced with extinction. He warns: “Soon The Mutori fishing dhows — vessels with skills and protecting the industry from collapse investors but since then with the failing we shall be looking for old photographs long narrow front — which were known for are now avoiding it all together and opting for tourism we are forced to survive purely to put on Museum walls.” their speed have all disappeared. The same ap- alternative sources of income.” 6 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010

hile Kenya has earned a lot of her for- Lake Alice at the foot of Mt Kenya, many Kenyans did the supplementary income? In addition, new routes eign exchange from tourism, the sec- not even know about this tourist site. In this issue, The are being created to open tourism space further. These tor remains unexploited. The country Reject team looks at various aspects of tourism which among others are ventures that many Kenyans could could gain more if it improved on the include the good the bad and the ugly. The Kino caves engage in. Wneglected historical sites that could earn the communi- of Taita Taveta where Jomo Kenyatta and other free- As Kenyans get into the festive season, communi- ties in the areas some income. dom fighters used to hide. The ranches of Laikipia that ties are asking that these historical sites be rehabili- When Prince William of Britain said he had pro- are denying the government the much needed income; tated to give them a chance to be part of the tourism posed to his fiancé at the Rutundu Log Cabins near In this issue, we also ask could wildlife farming offer sector. Councils engage in Government missing out joint action plans on revenue from ranches By HUSSEIN Dido

Last year’s performance of Samburu and Isiolo county councils was encouraging and more effort is being put to promote domestic tourism. To this effect Samburu and Isiolo county councils have formed a joint conservation area management plan aimed at increasing their earnings from the tour- ism sector. This will also spur the Northern tourism circuit. The plan will help in sharing resources and econom- ic benefits apart from conserving biodiversity of tour- ism in the sector. Addressing participants during the launch of the plan in Isiolo, Dr Philip Muruthi from the Africa Wild- life Foundation called on the councils to step up their marketing strategy to promote tourism products in and outside Kenya. He said: “The plans developed from the two councils by the Africa Wildlife Foundation will target tourism development as well as ecological, community part- nership, security and protected areas operation pro- grammes.” A local tourist feeding a rhino at a sanctuary. Speaking at the launch, Assistant Minister for Inter- Picture: Eliud Waithaka nal Security, Mr Simeon Lesirma said the Government By ELIUD WAITHAKA wild animals is supposed to remit Further, the letter claimed that the has put in place measures to promote and refocus do- The government could be losing mil- KSh500,000 annually while those that Conservancy had written several let- mestic tourism which contributes about 30 per cent to lions of money through illegal tourism concentrate purely on livestock are ters to the Council seeking clarification tourism revenue. in the country. charged KSh100,000. and it would not be forced into paying “The councils must work closely together so this can A survey conducted recently by Tourists from abroad book and fly mandatory invoices that it considers to be achieved through proper strategies and measures to Laikipia County Council revealed that directly to these ranches since some of be illegal as a result of intimidation by ensure the sector generates more income,” explained a majority of white settlers in Laikipia them have airstrips and they are said the Laikipia County Council. Lesirma. District carry out tourism activities to be “guests”. This was after a revenue officer He observed that some hotels in the region were re- without government knowledge. from the council and two police of- porting over 60 per cent in terms of bed occupancy. Out It was discovered that majority of Tussle ficers from Nanyuki Police Station il- of these, majority were local tourists. these ranchers who own thousands of legally entered the over 90,000 acre “With Kenyans developing interest in domestic tour- Laikipia County Council has of late acres of land have constructed lodges Conservancy demanding the payment ism, the obvious possibility is that this country may not been involved in a tussle between its in their farms where they conduct and outstanding arrears amounting to rely so much on international arrivals as is the case at revenue department and a conservancy tourism activities, denying the govern- over KSh1.2 million. the moment,” said Lesirma. over non payment of revenue. ment its due revenue. The County Council has now sued The growth of the domestic and international arriv- According to council chairman Mr Some of the over 20 conservancies the sanctuary which is best known als rose to 1,490,448 in 2009 up from 1,197,932 in 2008. Joseph Karonji, the conservancy has re- have even totally refused to remit re- for rhino breeding. However, there This translated to KSh62.5 billion in revenue. Records fused to obtain game ranching permit turns of conservancy fee and livestock are some ranches that have paid the for this year stand at 403,996, projecting a 0.3 per cent which is a requirement as per the Kenya cess to the county council. money. increase. gazette notice 2008. The notice issued In one of the ranches licensed to However, despite the tussles some Manager of Sarova Shaba lodge, Mr Robert Ondara by the Ministry of Local Government breed livestock (Sahiwals), a farmhand of these conservancies contribute a lot and Mr Abdi Boru, Isiolo County Council senior game dictates that Laikipia County Council who did not want to be named for fear towards community projects as corpo- warden said security had been restored in the region. collects revenue from private ranches of reprisal said tourists are charged rate social responsibility. They urged Kenyans take the opportunity of sampling and conservancies that hold wildlife. between KSh8,000 and KSh30,000 per Communities living around these diverse products offered in the northern part of the On that note, the management of night. conservancies especially the Maasai country. one the biggest conservancies in the It is believed that some of these lodg- complain of neglect by the manage- “Shaba is the jewel of northern Kenya. It is home to larger Laikipia has flatly refused to ob- es have been in existence for the last ten ment which they accuse of denying lioness Elsa and her cubs. This park is the Hollywood of tain the permit that cost KSh500,000 years, operating incognito. them job opportunities. Africa as many international films have been shot here,” annually. In another ranch that capitalises in They say people from other areas said Boru. However, the conservancy through livestock rearing, the manager is said are “imported” to work even as casual Among films shot at the Shaba are Born Free and To its chief executive officer has written to to be solely doing bookings for tourists labourers, a chance they feel should be Walk with Lions, all revolving around the life of Joy and the council demanding a clear explana- abroad and the workers, including the given to them as priority. George Adamson and the lioness Elsa and her cubs. tion of the fee being charged. assistant manager, are not involved. A resident of Daiga division in Others are Out of Africa and CBS’s TV series Survivor A complaint letter seen by the Re- The employees especially the en- Laikipia East District, Mr Charles Africa. ject and addressed to the Council with lightened ones cannot divulge any in- Mwangi complains that “wildlife from Ondara said the park and its adjacent Buffalo Springs a copy sent to the Permanent Secretary, formation concerning these conserv- these ranches destroys our crops and and Samburu parks offer exciting landscapes for tough Ministry of Local Government and the ancies’ and any effort to get insight into even getting work there for our chil- challenges. They also host the rare big five species — conservancy’s board claimed that “... what is happening becomes futile. dren is a nightmare. They should con- gravy zebra, reticulated giraffe, Somali ostrich, Beisa the Conservancy was not prepared to According to the government’s ga- sider our plight as neighbours and seek oryx and gerenuk. pay the invoices claimed as they were zette notice, a conservancy that keeps in dispute.” good relationships.” ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth 7

A rare bird sanctuary lies on the foot of Mt Kenya By JOSEPH MUKUBWA as well as the seasonally migratory Black Caps and Eurasian Bee Eaters. This is where you will find an oasis of The senior Gakunju named the Park peace while communing with nature. The Wanjii but residents nicknamed it Wajee, Park, situated about 110 kilometres from and this is the name that has been adopt- Nairobi via the Murang’a highway, is not ed. known by many. And sadly, the locals have not taken advantage of it. Nature park Wajee Nature Park, which includes a Gakunju is a man of multifaceted tal- nature trail and bird sanctuary is located in ents. He is a trained lawyer, an avid con- Mukurwe-ini District of Nyeri County. The servationist, an experienced mountaineer, mythical site of the home of Mumbi and a keen ornithologist and photographer. He Gikuyu, the first parents of the Agikuyu, was determined to maintain the forest and can be seen in the far distance on the left turn the facilities into a nature park and as you continue to Mukurwe-ini township camp. from the road to the park. Mt Kenya can be “The Park is mentioned on the endan- seen in the distance on a clear day. gered birds list as one of the few places in Kenya that harbours the rare Hinde’s Bab- Serene bler. Not only does the Park entice bird One can enjoy the nature trail accompa- lovers, it also attracts naturalists as ento- nied by the resident naturalist or even on mologists and lepidopterists who have ap- their own or explore the trails and tunnels preciated the wide variety of birds and but- through Wajee for a view of the local flora terflies found here,” says Edwin Kanake, an and fauna. The place also offers a peace- education officer with the Wildlife Club of ful site for picnic. The grounds can also be Kenya. used for a quiet moment of reflection or an Hinde’s Babbler is a bird endemic to organised worship service. Due to the low Kenya. Due to the cleaning of its natural temperatures, a camp fire is much appreci- bush habitat over the years caused by in- ated at night. tensive farming, the number of sites where An enormous grass thatched rondavel it can be found within the country have serves as a gathering place for meetings reduced to 71. It has been mentioned in and large group occasions. The area is also the ICBP/IUCN Red Data Book as being used for watching wildlife movies. on the endangered bird’s list. The Park started in 1992 was owned by The bird was initially only found in parts Jagi Gakunju, Chief Executive Officer of of Kitui, Mwingi but due to encroachment African Air Rescue (AAR) until two years of its habitat, it is now found in Wajee, parts ago when Wildlife Clubs of Kenya (WCK) of Karatina and lower parts of Mt Kenya in took over. This 20 acre gem was the inher- Kirinyaga district. itance Gakunju’s father bequeathed him. The Park is now being used as an edu- The old man had an unusual love for trees cation centre for environment and nature and preservation of the environment. conservation. It also hosts the Wildlife He maintained not only the indigenous Clubs Kenya central region office. Students trees found on the site but planted many from learning institutions visit the Park for exotic species, making it a forest retreat education programmes. Students take an educational walk in the Wajee Nature Park. The Park is home to a that has attracted over 126 species of birds. Wajee Nature Park set between Mt Ken- variety of bird species and offers peace and tranquility to the visitors. These include some of the world’s rarest ya and Aberdares is internationally rec- Pictures: Joseph Mukubwa birds such as the Hinde’s Babbler, a threat- ognised as an Important Bird Area (IBA). ened local species, the African Wood Owl The Park has one family of six birds out of ones including the more difficult to view equipped kitchen for those who want to the 2,000 found globally. Some birds mi- Pancake tortoise which tends to hide in the hire for KSh150 per day. The charges were grate from as far as Europe and Asia for rocks. recently adjusted slightly but are still af- “The Park is mentioned on breeding purposes. There is also a traditional Gikuyu home- fordable. An oasis of tranquillity, the park is also stead complete with a granary, separate Children will love the forest as tunnels the endangered birds list home to squirrels, velvet monkeys, civet huts for the wife and small children and a have been cut out of the undergrowth for cats, jackals, porcupines, hares, mongooses typical hut for the husband built by Bomas them to treasure hunt as well as special as one of the few places and bush backs. of Kenya. bird spotting walk. in Kenya that harbours It is planned that a small museum al- Many of the trees have been identified Accommodation ready built on the site will be opened later and labelled by the staff of the National the rare Hinde’s Babbler. The original family home built on stone once more artefacts have been acquired. Museums and the ornithological Depart- in 1941 provides three family size rooms for ment apparently makes several trips annu- Not only does the Park those staying over night. Two white washed Local tourism ally to ring and record birds. entice bird lovers, it grass thatched twin bedded rondavels are What makes Wajee Park unique is Several officers from the Wildlife Clubs also available, charmingly situated amongst the fact that it is embedded in the local- Kenya have been trained to guide groups also attracts naturalists flowering shrubbery, with bird baths and ity as part of the village scene, so visitors through the nature park. Visitors are en- feeding tables on the grass in front to facili- are treated as guests. There is virtually no couraged to support the conservation and as entomologists and tate more relaxed bird spotting. crime here and even if you wish to visit the ecological efforts by planting indigenous lepidopterists who have All rooms have electricity and running local market you will feel welcome. trees. The KSh300 fee includes a com- water is available including ablution rooms. The charges are pocket friendly. Resi- memorative plaque with one’s name and appreciated the wide A camping ground for up to 20 tents is also dents pay KSh200 and non-residents the future upkeep of the special tree. The available. Tents, mattresses, ground sheets KSh300 for the nature trail. For spending Wildlife Clubs Kenya is now planning to variety of birds and and camping stoves are available for hire. a night, visitors are charged KSh500 per build a modern hotel to cater for the visi- butterflies found here.” As we wandered around we discovered person, per night. tors, a hostel for about 50 students and a the Tortoise Sanctuary which is home of The facilities are basically geared to the conference hall. They hope this will pro- — Edwin Kanake several Leopard tortoise and other smaller self catering traveller but there is a fully mote domestic tourism. 8 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Waterfall in Eldoret cries for recognition By Chrispinus Omar

Except for first year students from Moi University and a handful of visitors being shown around, to those familiar with the site, Asururiet Waterfall is not a popular tourist attraction. The waterfall is located at Kes- ses, about 36 kilometres south of Eldoret town in Uasin Gishu county. The natural phenome- non, whose water levels increase during the long rain season has remained untapped for many years. Yet with its magnificent rocks that leave the water flowing along River Kesses with a refresh- ing look, the facility could turn around the region’s economy. The water fall whose Kalenjin name, Asururiet means flowing peacefully, originates from Kesses/ Lessos dam. It flows downstream through the Asururiet-Moi Uni- versity farms and is shared by Ketiplong, Kesses, Asururiet, Pen- dura A and B, Tulwet and Sambul farms. The water level reduces during the dry seasons, which falls between November and March. Gazetted University students who visit the area during their orientation and when on picnics as well as The Asururiet Waterfall is one of the untapped tourism attraction sites in the North Rift. some area residents now want the The Ministry of Tourism is yet to move in and gazette the Falls as a tourist attraction. Ministry of Tourism to move in Picture: Chrispinus Omar and gazette the falls as a tourist at- traction site. in terms of revenue, will improve living Area Assistant Chief, Ms Sally Birigen Agriculture. A spot check in the area revealed that standards of the people in the area. says unlike the popular Thompsons Falls “Let us not assume that the North Rift women from neighbouring communities He regrets that those who visit the site in Nyahururu that has claimed many lives, region is only good for crop production wash clothes on the banks of the river. usually carry packed meals and those with- Asururiet Waterfall has registered very few when we have unlimited options to diver- Youth and men in particular also drive out are forced to leave early because there deaths over the years. sify our financial sources,” says Simam. their animals to drink water as others graze are no food establishments. “For the last 22 years that I have been She cites Ngara and Sinap in the con- by the river banks. “Once the place has been fenced off, here, I have only heard of one case where stituency as other places worth mention- “The waterfalls is a great natural site and proper structures put up and security an adult drowned while trying to cross a ing when talking of propelling the tourism if protected and well publicised will see improved in line with the Government’s bridge that runs across the river,” explains sector in the region to great heights. many local and international tourists pitch requirements for any tourist facility, we Birigen. “Communities residing in these areas tent here,” says Mr Geoffrey Khalwale, a shall have tourists flocking to not only Another area resident, Ms Josephine are willing to invest in tourism if proper second year student. enjoy the waterfall but the serene cli- Chebet challenges the Government to measures are put in place so they are as- Khalwale says the university’s School of matic conditions of the region,” explains consider diversifying from wild animals sured of good returns,” explains Simam. Environmental Sciences has a duty to ad- Amukune. to other attractions that tourists would be Advocacy vice on how the place can be put into sus- He adds that other entrepreneurs will interested in. The legislator says there is need for ad- tainable use to the benefit of area residents move in to take advantage of the emerging “Our local breed of livestock is great for vocacy campaigns to be mounted in the and the country at large. business opportunities once the area is rec- some foreign tourists. The chilly weather area to sensitise area residents about how “Why should such a wonderful place be ognized by the Government and marketed experienced in this area during certain sea- well to utilise the natural resources avail- relegated for cattle grazing and washing of both locally and abroad. sons of the year can be fascinating even to able in their areas. clothes? This is not a common river that The river has not been of much help to some Kenyans especially those who come While launching the North Rift Tour- should pass unnoticed,” he says. the locals because they experience enough from dry areas,” she points out. ism Guidebook in Eldoret last year, Tour- Khalwale suggests that the university rainfall throughout the year and the water- Eldoret South MP Peris Simam says her ism Minister Najib Balala said the event in conjunction with the community can fall is the only unique feature that if well constituency is blessed with enormous re- marked a crucial milestone in the develop- solicit for funds and construct recrea- harnessed can be an income generating sources for tourism and all that is needed ment of tourism in the region. tional facilities like swimming pools and resource. is commitment without over-relying on The minister said the book was an hotels among others that can cater for important reference material for tourists tourists visiting the area. The facilities will keen to explore untapped sites in the re- further help create job opportunities for “Why should such a wonderful place be relegated for cattle gion, which is commonly associated with the locals. agriculture. Mr Evans Amukune points out that grazing and washing of clothes? This is not a common river The guide is available in the region’s the locals can be encouraged to invest in tourist office in Eldoret town and it also various businesses that will besides gen- that should pass unnoticed.” provides information to investors inter- erating additional income for the country — Geoffrey Khalwale ested with the tourism sector. ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth 9

Majestic Hell’s Gate remains forever amazing By GEORGE MURAGE 65 percent are local tourists. They hope herds of buffalo, zebras, eland and gi- this number will increase. raffes,” she says. Located about 90 kilometres from Nairobi, But what makes this park so unique? Deeper into the Park is the lower Naivasha town has become a hub of both Despite its name, the Park provides the gorge that offers an opportunity to ex- local and international tourists. ideal venue for a day trip for those from plore the long, winding, deeper curves From Lake Naivasha to the fascinat- Nairobi or even Nakuru. of the Ol Njorowa Gorge. In here, hot ing and breathtaking Hell’s Gate National “This is a truly panoramic picnic spot water springs which some claim are me- Park, Naivasha is a ‘home far from home’. and an evocative camping site located deep dicinal for those with skin diseases can A town associated with the horticultur- in the bushes,” says Palmeris. be found. The tour for the strong hearted al industry and mainly roses, many a time Located on the floor of the Rift Valley, is breath taking. the ‘thorns’ and not the roses have hit the the small park provides endless bio-diver- headlines. However, within the lakeside sity and it is one of the only two parks in Steam gorge town is beauty, breath taking sceneries, the country that allow one to walk or cycle The rising steam from various parts untapped geothermal power and a source without a guard. of the Park is a clear indication of the ge- of livelihood to thousands of families. othermal power. The Olkaria Geother- Naivasha, a corruption of the Maasai Beautiful scenery mal Station, the first of its kind in Africa, E-na-iposha (leaving waters) was found Some of the spectacular scenery in the was established in 1981 and generates in 1884 for the Western world by Joseph Park include the towering cliffs, water- geothermal power underneath Hell’s Gate Thomson. Between 1937 and 1950 this gouged gorges, stark of rock towers, scrub- from the hot springs and geysers. beautiful, peaceful fresh water lake was clad volcanoes and the rising plumes of The main road through the Park passes used as a landing place for plane passen- geothermal steam. the power plant and huge steam pipes are gers destined for Nairobi. On entering the Park, one is welcomed common in most parts. Today the lovely lake town, with its cool by the 25 metre high Fischer’s Tower rising There are also two nature trails at Hob- climate, has become a retreat for Nairobi high in the sky and is used by novices in leys Volcano and Ol Basta rock tower residents and tourists looking for peace. rock climbing. which are spiced up by beautiful picnic Next to the lake is the ever amazing Hell’s It is common to see both the young and sites at various points within the Park. Gate National Park located 100 kilometres old easily climbing to the highest point of The Park boasts of providing some of north-west of Nairobi. the tower with the help of trained guides in the best, secure, scenic, accessible and well- It is named after a narrow break in the a matter of minutes. equipped campsites in the country. The cliffs, once a tributary of a prehistoric lake The jugged volcanic plug is all that re- facilities include picnic benches, sheltered that fed early humans in the Rift Valley. mains of the ancient volcano named after picnic areas, shower blocks, water taps, pit Gustav Fischer, a German explorer. latrines and rubbish bins. Diversity According to the Maasai who claim that Those wishing to camp in the Park are Among the various national parks in the Park was their ancestral land, the rock advised to come with drinking water, pic- the country, Hell’s Gate is popularly known is a petrified figure of a chief’s daughter. nic items, walking boots, binoculars, hat, for standing in a class of its own. The story goes that the girl was on her way sunscreen and guide books. to getting married and had been warned The Park is accessible any time of the Visitors have the choice of driving, Visitors at the renowned Hell’s Gate walking, camping, cycling and rock-climb- against looking behind lest she would turn year. For those who love bird watching, an National Park pass through a gorge ing within the park while horseback safaris into a rock. incredible 103 species of birds have been which is a major attraction at the can also be arranged. And just like the biblical story of Lot, recorded here. game reserve. Below: Mother and son The Park with an area of 68 square kilo- she went against the community’s taboo The massive cliff in the Park is home for walk through the breath-taking gorge metres was gazetted in 1984 and was previ- and took one last glance at her home and thousands of swift birds. It also provides a during a tour of the Park. Pictures: ously used for grazing by members of the the tower is a reminder of what happened unique breeding ground for vulture, au- George Murage pastoralist community and wild animals. to her. gur buzzard, Verreaux eagle and the rare Its popularity is perhaps marked by the According to Palmeris, the rock offers Lamergeyer vulture. tionally close range. high number of visitors. excellent climbing and is home to a colony There is the Mervyn Carnelly raptor Examples of rarely seen wildlife in the According to the senior warden in of rock hyrax among other small animals. which is a unique bird viewing hide that park include lions, leopards, and cheetahs. charge of the park, Ms Nelly Palmeris, “The towering cliffs and undulating incorporates a one-way window. This al- Hyraxes, African buffalo, zebra, eland, about 100,000 local and international tour- grasslands provide one of the few remain- lows visitors to view and photograph the hartebeest, Thomson’s gazelle and baboons ists visit the Park annually. Of the number, ing places where one can walk alongside raptors, a breed of birds of prey at excep- are also common in the park. Elephant corridor offers sanctuary to the jumbo By Jeff Mwangi to be part of the initiative. cavating an area underneath the highway boundary of Mount Kenya Forest to reduce “The project aims at ensuring a long which allows elephants to walk through conflict between the farming communities The elephant population has been reduc- term survival of the elephant population in rather than crossing the busy highway. and elephants. But while fencing is an effec- ing at an alarming rate prompting efforts to the Mount Kenya region and around 2,000 Initial funds were contributed by Virgin tive tool for conflict alleviation, it further save the jumbo. elephants will benefit from this corridor,” Atlantic in November 2008. This allowed severs migration routes previously used by The elephant is at risk because of its explained Southern. the Mount Kenya Trust to have the road the animals. tusks that are popular for ivory. Save the She said there was need to protect el- surveyed for the elephant’s underpass and The Trust and its stakeholders seek to elephants in Mount Kenya region is a vital ephant species, along with villages, farms then designed and constructed. The con- avoid problems caused by creating an is- new elephant corridor. Located north of and people around them. struction is already over and the underpass land out of several protected areas and Mount Kenya, it will provide a lifeline for The Elephant Corridor — a 28km elec- is now ready to be joined to the corridor manage wildlife movements in a manner local communities and the elephant popu- trified game proof fence — will provide a fence. which minimises human-wildlife conflict. lation in the region. safe passage for elephants in Mount Kenya Virgin Atlantic country manager, Mr The movement of these elephants be- Virgin Atlantic airlines has contributed National Reserve to the north. This will David Rose said the company was delight- tween the highlands on Mount Kenya and between $250,000 to $1 million to the reduce the problems caused by human- ed to see the completion of the Elephant the dry low country to the north and west project which has been created between wildlife conflict and severed migration corridor. “We thank the Mount Kenya occurs for a variety of different reasons, the Mount Kenya National Reserve and routes. It will also create a continuous Trust and all the partners for giving the which includes seasonal feeding patterns Ngare Ndare Forest Reserve. This is ex- conservation area between Mount Kenya, organisation an opportunity to be part of and the need to seek out mineral supple- pected to enable elephants to benefit from Ngare Ndare, Borana Ranch, Lewa Con- such an unprecedented initiative, which ments lacking on Mount Kenya. the diverse resources offered by each habi- servancy and numerous protected area in aims at ensuring the longevity of the el- The re-opening of migration routes is tat. the northern rangelands. ephant population in the region,” said also significant in mitigating the inevitable During a visit at Borana Ranch, Chief A major part of the corridor is the com- Rose. destructive impact on fragile habitats that Commercial Officer for Virgin Atlantic, Ms pleted underpass beneath Nanyuki-Meru The Mount Kenya Trust and Kenya become isolated by fencing and the dense Julie Southern said the company was proud highway. The underpass was created by ex- Wildlife Services have been fencing the human population. 10 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010

Hidden away, lies a treasure in the Nairobi Railways Museum

By OMONDI AKUNO by the Queen of England on her royal train in East Africa in 1950s, bicycle and It is not often that one associates historical wheeled trolleys as well as trophies are also and touristic sites with a city like Nairobi. exhibited. However, in down town Nairobi lies one It also has in stock cutlery that was used significant building that is a quite spec- in the first coaches during the early 1900s. tacular hidden place, less frequented and Some of these are large plates that were one that not many people know about. used for serving meat and salads while An old steam carriage number 301 that was used to build the Tanganyika railway in 1923 outside the railway museum. Below: workers inside the museum. The If one is interested in the history of the the smaller ones were for vegetables. Salt, museum was opened in 1971 for the preservation of the history of the East Africa country’s railways or just wants a nice place pepper, mustard and oil servers are also on railways. Pictures: Omondi Akuno to visit then this is it. display. The Nairobi Railways Museum is easily There is a display of a menu typed on robi looked like during the 1900s. At one Perhaps this is why movie makers and accessible from the Nairobi Railway Sta- a piece of card paper that lists some of the point there was a railway line passing documentary producers from all over the tion entrance. It is rarely crowded as not meals which include celery soup, mashed across Kenyatta Avenue, which is a road world love this site. It is here where one many people visit it. potatoes and French beans, cabbage and today. of the coaches (No. 301) was used in the roasted potatoes, fried fish and tomatoes But one photograph that might attract shooting of the movie Out of Africa. First timers sauce, roast leg of mutton and stewed fruit. attention is one showing two lionesses There are people like Gabriel Anubi, 22, These were served in the early days when resting on a piece of rock, perhaps wait- Museum visit a resident of Kawangware who have never the train carried passengers from the Coast ing to pounce on their next victim. These Currently there is an ongoing con- even heard of it, leave alone visit the place. into the hinterland. wild animals were a major threat to rail- struction on the extension of the railway “I am here to have a look at what the way line construction workers and played building in Nairobi where a resource cen- Museum has in store as I have never seen a Photograph a big role in delaying the entire process. tre will be established so that scholars, coach before,” says Anubi. The Museum has a resource centre that Outside the museums main building is researchers, students among other enthu- The Railways Museum was opened in is an archive of black and white photo- a collection of locomotives, coaches, car- siasts can access information on the rail- 1971 for the preservation of the history graphs adorn the inside walls of the mu- riages and wagons. Some of these include ways history. of the railways of East Africa. It is cur- seum. Some of the photographs date back carriage Number 301 that built Tangan- For those who would love to buy some- rently stocked with photographs, relics to the early 1900s when the construction yika Railways in 1923 and was used be- thing from the museum, one can get a and records of events and facilities that of the railway line was taking place. tween Dar-es-salaam and Morogoro. An- variety of postcards, photographs, railway have been used since the beginning of the The pictures show how Africans and other is locomotive number 2401 built by video tapes, magazines and booklets at a railroad. Indians worked on the construction of the Vulcan Foundry in England in 1923. small fee. Inside the museum, under the main gal- the railway line while other photographs If you feel that you want a ride on a lery section, there is a collection of small show a variety of carriages that were used Exhibitions coach, there are refurbished ones that will items ranging from manual type writers, in the country at that time. Also exhibited is a coach Number 12 take you to your desired destination be it field compass, binoculars, cooking stove From the photos, one is able to tell that built in 1899. It is from this coach that from the coastal city of Mombasa or to and punch card time clock among others the work they were doing was difficult as a police superintendent Charles Henry Ry- the Rift Valley town of Naivasha. items. result of harsh climatic conditions, rough all was dragged while sleeping by a man- The museum is open Monday to Sun- In addition there are items that are terrain and wild animals. eating lion at Kima Station, 400 kilome- day including public holidays from 8.00am models of coaches and ship, the seat used Another photograph shows what Nai- tres from Nairobi on June 6, 1900. to 5.00pm. ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth 11 Kisauni’s forgotten pillar in a derelict state

By DIANA WANYONYI of Oman of Saudi Arabia who used stairs from the sea shore (now crumbled) to reach the house. Many years ago a pillar was constructed Mnyuchi “This pillar had stairs that could enable one to reach area, Mishomoroni in Kisauni District. Nobody seems its top to put up fire as a signal to give green light to to know much about the significant historical site that approaching ship to dock or leave the harbour,” ex- people hardly consider its importance. plains Sadhau. He adds: “But now the stair is worn The isolated pillar could be one of the oldest since down due to erosion and age.” it has an Arabic inscription which means it could have The Arabs used to trade in ivory, clothes, dates and been built in 1331 and used as a watch tower to keep farm products as well as exchange of goods. According enemies at bay and also direct approaching ships. to the Arabic calendar, this year is 1431 which means The ruin, situated near the Indian Ocean, opposite the pillar is slightly over 100 years old. the Tudor Creek, is marked with tightly knit roots of Chief Curator of Fort Jesus Museum, Mr Jimbi Ka- a tree on top of it although its white walls are cracked tana says there is need to carry out more research in and peeling. Mishomoroni area as it is rich with cultural sites. “We Mr Mohammed Kur Sadhau, 76, who found his need to carry out research on the pillar to know if it way to Mombasa from Faza in Lamu started seeing has any significance in the community,” says Katana. the pillar when he was 15 years old. The larger Kisauni District is rich with historical sites like the Free Town area where the slaves were re- Architecture leased during colonial area and intermarried to start A resident removes shrubs and Near the pillar there was a five bedroomed house their new life. twigs around the Mnara pillar in which was built by Arabs where Sadhau lived before it Katana says plans are underway to start deeper re- Mnyuchi area, Mishomoroni in was demolished a month ago following a land dispute. search and investigation in the area in order to know Kisauni District. Not many of the “I lived in this empty old cracked house with my if they are of historical significance. He adds: “If the area residents have paid attention family. Many people were afraid to come close to the research feedback will be positive, the National Muse- to this important historical site pillar and the house because it was bushy and it was ums of Kenya will make it part of our historical sites.” that could also pass as a tourist dominated with black monkeys everywhere giving it According to a resident of Mshomoroni, the oldest attraction. Inset: Mohammed the nickname mnara wa Manyani meaning pillar of men who could have told the story are all dead. Sad- Kur Sadhau, 76, who has lived in Mnyachu area for over 60 years. monkeys,” explains Sadhau. hau is the only one who has an idea about the forgot- Pictures: Diana Wanyonyi The house was originally owned by a great leader ten pillar in Mnyuchi area. Women to benefit Farmers urged to venture from tourism fund in wildlife farming By Rachel Muthoni “While the Koibatek project will be a pilot, others will follow in other By KARIUKI MWANGI ing in the wildlife sector.” He said Kws was Millions of shillings are to be spent areas especially Marakwet where we willing to guide the farmers on productive to boost tourism in Koibatek Dis- plan to market the people’s rich cul- Other than relying on agricultural and livestock wildlife farming. trict. ture,” explained Kibet. farming, farmers have been urged to venture Njue said that other parts of the country The Tourism Trust Fund (TTF) The project will mainly target wid- into other forms of income generation to help rely on the mountain conservation areas for will spend eight million shillings to ows, single mothers and housewives them improve their standards of living. hydro-electric power generation. He urged start tourism projects for women in from poor backgrounds. Beneficiar- This will enable them develop themselves the residents to focus on conserving and de- the district. ies will also be taught entrepreneur- economically and stop relying on foreign aid. veloping the area for the benefit of the coun- Acting Chief Executive Officer Mr ship and marketing through the in- According to an assistant director of the Kenya try. Sammy Kibet said the project, which ternet in a bid to boost tourism in the Wildlife Service on Mountain Conservation, Wildlife as a tourist attraction is an impor- has already kicked off will benefit region. Mr Robert Njue, there are many avenues that tant factor in the economic pillar of Vision more than 100 women. Said Kibet: “A cyber café will be farmers can explore and these include wildlife 2030 and KWS is reaching out to people to Already, the Fund has invested an- put up at every point to help the ben- farming. develop it to improve their economic status. other KSh4 million on a conference eficiaries access internet as a tool for “They can engage in chameleon and guinea Deputy Director of KWS, Dr Joachim Ka- centre as well as buying maps and a marketing their products.” fowl rearing as well as bee keeping among oth- giri urged the residents around Mt Kenya to vehicle at Mogotio. He added: “Besides carvings, the er areas that can earn them income as attrac- have a sense of accountability and responsibil- Speaking in Nakuru, Kibet said women will have a chance to market tions,” explained Njue. ity in dealing with wildlife and forest conser- the money which has been released natural honey which is also produced He said the mountain conservation area has vation since they are the major beneficiaries of will be spent in building stalls for sell- in high quantities in the area.” a high economic potential in extraordinary the forest. ing curios and possibly a guest house Meanwhile, Kibet has asked the flora and fauna that the residents can take ad- Kagiri said: “Everybody who lives around near the equator. government to make county’s more vantage of and use to generate income. that forest regardless of his/her status in so- By targeting women, the Fund cosmopolitan by settling people Njue was speaking in Embu during a wild- ciety has the responsibility of monitoring the will have gone a long way in reduc- from different tribes in same areas. life stakeholders meeting. He said mountain smooth running of the forest to prevent de- ing poverty levels in the semi arid He noted that tribalism had caused conservation is very critical in the country’s struction.” areas. violence in 2007 causing the tourism ecosystem. He added: “Residents have a bigger say in While places like Marakwet, Bar- sector to incur hefty losses. KWS intends to empower the residents on ensuring there are checks and balances in the ingo, Samburu and Keiyo had a lot to “Though the sector has gradually how they can conserve the area and also gen- way forests and wildlife are conserved.” offer for local and international tour- recovered, there is still fear over sub- erate income. Kagiri said that Kenyans should realise that ists, little had been done to market sequent violence and the solution He said: “The Kenya Wildlife Service will conserving forests is important as we rely on the area as a way of creating jobs for is to ensure different communities not put blocks for anyone interested in invest- the forests for many other resources. residents. learn how to co-exist,” he explained. 12 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Neglected Sector to get boost sites that through agro-tourism dot ridges of Murang’a By RYAN MATHENGE

Somewhere in the ridges of Murang’a lies a forgotten site. The few who know about it only associate it with traditional values for be- ing the cradle of Gikuyu community. Mukurwe wa Nyagathanga remains a for- gotten historical site due to poor publicity. Mukurwe is a tree at the Shrine where beauti- ful birds called Nyagathanga used to rest. There are people who associate the site with intro- duction of the Catholic Church at Tuthu area where the first mass was read. The site on the slopes of Aberdare Mountains is 110 years old and is currently referred to as the Millennium Shrine. While not regarded as a tourist attraction, it remains an important place where many of the Catholic faithful visit. UNEP global director Ms Tomoko Nishimoto is joined by traditional The tough female chief of Murang’a, Wan- dancers at the Kilimo Talii Project in Chogoria during a recent visit gu wa Makeri is claimed to have been buried where she called for promotion of agro-tourism. within this site. So was paramount chief Karu- Picture: Paul Mwaniki ri wa Gakure and the first Murang’a colonial By PAUL MWANIKI Tea is the unique selling point at Kili- the rich mountain biodiversity as well as DC Francis Hall. mo Talii as a destination besides other at- entry of the equally rich Laikipia plains At the historical site, lies incomplete build- When the word tourism is mentioned, the tractions. and northern Kenya eco-system as tourist ings that were abandoned by the County first thing that comes to mind is wildlife “It has a very strong connection with destinations. Council of Murang’a despite more than KSh17 and beautiful sceneries that comprise the hospitality. Offering a cup of tea at source The whole project is set to benefit the million being used to put them up. larger part of what the country has to offer can provide a yearning experience to visi- community who are expected to buy The site is currently under management of in this industry. tors,” said Mr Stephen Gitau from KEN- shares from KENFAP, who are the initia- Gakuyu village community, County Council Few Kenyans would really understand FARM. tors. of Murang’a and Green Belt Movement. In rural tourism, a product that is being de- “Tea is also associated with the distinc- “The community around Chogoria ushering the new millennium, many from veloped to tap into the industry through tive equatorial climate where the environ- and Meru will finally own this facility the community including Nobel laureate Prof day to day lifestyle of the communities in- mental conditions are crucial hence the by purchasing part of the shares which Wangari Maathai visited site. tending to feature in the business. focus on the project is tourism and con- are owned by KENFAP and we will leave In Chogoria, Meru South one such servation,” said Gitau. them to run it and only assist with some Set backs project being developed through a joint He added that the project site coincides logistics,” noted Gitau. partnership of Kenya Federation of Ag- with the Mt. Kenya climbing route known During a recent visit by former Na- A number of people are disadvantaged in ricultural Producers (KENFAP) and the as the Chogoria Route. tional UNDP coordinator Ms Tomoko visiting the site because reliable public service community. Nishimoto who has since then been ap- transport is not available. This is purely a community based rural Relaxation pointed as the global director with Unit- Murang’a county tourism officer, Mr Joseph project which was started in 2005 and is With this, most tourists can relax at the ed Nations Environmental Programme, Kung’u, says a lot of sensitisation is being done located along the equator on the wind- Kilimo Talii cottages before or after the the people were called upon to own the to create awareness on historical sites. ward side of Mt Kenya. adventurous journey on Africa’s second project and help in implementing the He says Murang’a has many of the histori- The most striking features to any visi- largest mountain. project. cal sites like Mau Mau caves in Wanjerere area tor are the well pruned green and lush This idea was hatched from the Com- Support which were used during the struggle for in- vegetation of tea plantations, scenic hills, munity Management of Protected Areas dependence. A British aircraft is said to have rivers, waterfalls and caves which combine Conservation (COMPACT), a project of Nishimoto said that she would be the dropped a bomb in this village killing hundreds uniquely with the imposing Mt Kenya. the Global Environmental Facility (GEF) first to camp and spend nights with her of people. Beyond the impressive landscapes and that aims at conserving Mt Kenya as a family and friends once the project is The British soldiers dropped high pow- rich biodiversity, this region is a water world heritage site. complete and even promised to bring dered bombs while pursuing tens of Mau Mau COMPACT project coordinator, Mr more visitors from Japan. catchment area for two of Kenya’s most fighters suspected to have been hiding in the Fred Kihara told the Reject that Kilimo The project also got a boost from the important rivers, the Tana and Ewaso caves and had declined to surrender. Talii at Chogoria is proving that agro- Nithi CDF kitty with Mr Kareke Mbiuki, Nyiro. “We have a lot of historical sites that people tourism is yet to be a ventured business. who is the area MP promising that by end Rural tourism “The project started just as a way of of the year it would be connected with can come and write about,” says Kung’u dur- ing an interview with the Reject. The project which has been dubbed showing tourists visiting Mt. Kenya the electricity. “Kilimo Talii, Swahili for agro-tourism way of life of those living around it but Kareke said the Government was Another attraction area is on the slope of the aims at providing alternative and ad- as days have gone by we find that these supportive of such initiatives. “The Gov- Aberdares where former Mau Mau Field Mar- ditional income through rural tourism people will even run it on its own without ernment is planning of how a place like shall Dedan Kimathi used to hide on top of a while at the same time promoting and depending on the mountain goers,” noted Kisumu can also benefit from tourism tree in Mwisho wa Raha area in Kangema. preserving the fragile eco-system of this Kihara. activities considering that we have the The tree was the watch tower he used to mountain region. He said that taking tourists through second largest fresh water lake but few monitor movement of the colonial soldiers Most people living around Meru are lessons of tea farming to the time it is tourists visit there,” he noted. before attacking them. The marked trees farmers and in rural tourism the proposed plucked and taken for processing leaves is It is with this much optimism that remains an attraction despite many people products need be linked to the lifestyle of a desired experience by the visitors. the community in this area is hoping to lacking information to link it with struggle the host community so it can create a de- Agro-tourism was being introduced as launch the first agro-tourism project in for independence. pendable product. a pilot project and others are expected in Mt Kenya region. ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth 13 Grave matter haunts martyr’s burial site

From left: Hannington’s gravestone which is 200 metres from Anglican Church Mumias By PAUL HALISI town. Bishop and martyr James Hannington and the tomb in Uganda where he was first buried before the remains were exhumed. ACK members Hannington Mutere 88-year-old Hannington Mutere remem- (left) and the church lay reader John Mbati outside the Mumias diocese offices. They bers how when as a young boy the place call for renewal of the grave’s significance. Pictures: Paul Halisi and internet was held with reverence and awe. “Before we entered or left the church It was because of the celebrations that a On October 12, 1885, Hannington who area, we would go to the grave spot, kneel wire mesh cage was erected around the spot was posted as the first Bishop of the region then pray to God to intervene in solving and a new gravestone built and inscribed. arrived in Busoga after spending two weeks our pressing problems,” he recalls. But now the cage is often smothered with on the way. But there was trouble. The Bish- This trend changed slowly until now bush to the chagrin of those who saw it hon- op together with his party were arrested by when no one no longer visits the spot that oured as a holy ground and a historical site. Chief Luba of Busoga on instructions from is almost forgotten. This is the burial spot Dr William Mukhwana, a church histo- Kabaka Mwanga of Buganda because they of James Hannington in Mumias town, the rian says if interest in the burial was reju- approached the area from the East. man whose legacy defines martyrdom. venated, it could attain the status accorded Hannington and his entourage except He is a historical figure as well as an Namugongo Grounds in Kampala, Uganda four who escaped were arrested and burnt icon of the Anglican Church in East Afri- where Hannington and 45 other martyrs, alive at Namugongo Grounds, near Kam- ca. So for many years, the church faithful died after they were burnt alive. pala town. Those who escaped were hidden that the surrounding one acre land be de- visited the site in his memory to pray to “Thousands travel to Namugongo by an old Busoga woman. Thus, the killed veloped with infrastructure in honour of God to fill them with the spirit of sacrifice Grounds every year for pilgrimage but the lot entered the annals of Christian church the slain bishop. for the sake of others as Jesus Christ dem- same does not happen for the Mumias site history as martyrs who died in the course of For the next three decades, the place at- onstrated”, says Ms Maria Nekesa, 74, a anymore yet it has the same significance,” spreading the gospel. tracted the church members who regarded member of Anglican Church in Mumias. explains Mukhwana. Soon after the killings a serious famine it as a holy shrine. Traditionalists also use was experienced in Buganda and fortune the place to perform rites. However, there Commemorate His arrival tellers told the Kabaka that it would not are others who just treat the site as a tourist Now a section of the church’s faithful According to church records availed end unless the bones of the white man they attraction. are calling for the reawakening of the Han- by the Bishop of Mumias ACK Diocese, killed were exhumed and taken away. As people remember Bishop Hanning- nington grave in his honour. They want its Beneah Salalah, Hannington arrived in Otsialo Lukuru, one of the escapees was ton, some radical ACK members such as profile and image raised through building Mombasa in 1885 before moving to Ugan- released from the hideout by the Busoga Maria Nekesa are toying with the possibil- a shed around it. They would also like to da which was the mission’s station for the woman. He went to receive the remains. ity of bringing back his remains from Eng- see a pillar erected and landscaping done. new Eastern Equatorial Africa diocese. Otsialo and three others who were in the land for re-burial. The faithful also want periodic church In September the same year, he arrived at hideout brought the remains to Nabongo Some old men also remember the place activities to be held at the grave and a day Elureko village in the present Mumias Dis- Mumia in the presence of a missionary, Rev with nostalgia as it was where circumcision named for celebrations in his honour. trict where he met Nabongo (King) Mumia. William Jones. ceremonies were held before it was aban- Mutere remembers that the trees and The Nabongo received him well together Mumia then buried the remains of doned. Christians blame the neglect on flowers which were at the site were cleared with 50 of his helpers. They stayed at the Hannington near a tree known locally as subsequent church leadership. Traditional- some 20 years ago. palace for one more week before leaving for omutseso under whose shade traditional ists blame it on the kings who came after “This place should be our spiritual shrine Uganda. rites are performed. Mumia. and not an abandoned bush,” says the octo- On his departure, Bishop Hannington Succession A clan elder from the region, Mr Osun- genarian, who was named after the martyr. is said to have promised Mumia that the dwa Mukoya; wants another omutseso tree, The spot is now covered with bush British government would protect him in Hannington was succeeded by Bishop planted to replace the fallen one and the where cattle graze and children play. The case of attacks from the enemy tribes. In Alfred Tucker in 1890 who later arranged traditional rites resumed. lush green field where Christians used to return for the goodwill, Mumia gave him for the remains to be exhumed and sent to He says: “Traditional and religious func- hold spiritual retreats has now been turned additional helpers and advised them not to England for final burial. Twenty years lat- tions should be performed together for the into a football pitch. Owing to the changes, enter Uganda from the eastern side because er, Anglican church members in Mumias interest of peace and unity for God is for us tourists and researchers also rarely visit. local residents regarded those entering traced the spot where Nabongo had buried all.” The only recent high profile interest in from that direction as enemies. In addition, the remains and a missionary from ACK Bishop Salalah concurs that it is im- the spot was 16 years ago in 1994 when the the Nabongo also wrote letters introducing Maseno North diocese Den-Helda Hol- portant to raise the profile of the site. He then Archbishop of Canterbury Dr George Hannington to the Kabaka of Buganda. land, built a concrete grave and declared reiterates: “Hannington’s martyrdom is Carey visited the site and unveiled a plaque the seed on which the Anglican Church to commemorate the death of Hanning- in East Africa has grown and he should be ton. He was accompanied by the then ACK “This place should be our spiritual shrine and not honoured in the best ways possible.” Archbishop Manasses Kuria. This was dur- an abandoned bush.” Already Bishop Hannington Memorial ing the celebration of 150 years of Anglican Cathedral and a primary teachers training Church’s presence in Kenya. — Hannington Mutere college have been built in his honour. 14 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Promoting Africa through art By KIGONDU NDAVANO who has also borrowed heavily from Tan- zini has seen what may have appeared as Malindi based Italian art promoter Ar- useless ordinary objects being turned into mando Tanzini has for years made Ma- money. lindi-Kenya and Africa popular through a Form four graduate Bernard ‘Marshall’ slogan “Do not forget Africa”. Rambo has for the last one year adopted an He does this through art in which he art where a cross-section of what could be promotes his pieces by sending them to easily ignored as useless is converted into international exhibitions and art collectors marketable piece of art. in Europe by use of a Map of Africa made Using broken pieces of glass, plywood, from various African raw materials. dry dark Casuarina tree seeds, dry coconut In the art gallery within his house near fronds and a number of different colours the Vasco da Gama Pillar, Tanzini guides although he prefers the golden coloured Artist Bernard Marshall poses nest to his impression of the map of Africa made with casuarinas seeds. He uses materials such as dry coconut fronds, broken pieces many artists into producing original, paint more, he is able to make beautiful of glass, plywood to make beautiful artwork. Picture: Kigondu Ndavano sometimes crude pieces of art. artwork. Due to the huge number of pieces sent Rambo has been making good sales. ury private villas and cottages.” adds: “One piece takes between two to to Europe, art collectors have started get- He explains: “The pieces retail at between Rambo explains: “The time spent mak- three days.” ting privately interested in “Africa” making KSh10,000 to KSh20,000 and are quite ing such pieces of art depends on the Rambo displays his work along the Ma- the map marketable as a piece of art. popular with Italian tourists and residents amount of raw materials to be stuck to- lindi Bay Beach Road where he attracts Today, great innovations by a local artist who buy them as decoration for their lux- gether and collection of such items.” He both customers and art admirers. The great Vasco da Kitui yearning to exploit Gama pillar slowly its natural resources By BONIFACE MULU Professionals Forum meeting held at the Ki- tui Multi Purpose Development Training In- Kitui and Mwingi Districts want to start ex- stitute. The meeting was chaired by Mr Temi being eaten away ploiting coal deposits in the region. Mutia, Strategic Planning Consultant. The According to Kitui County professionals forum was recently launched officially at the By KIGONDU NDAVANO for those entering the area where the the area has enough coal deposits that if ex- same venue. pillar is situated. ploited can help lift standards of living. Nzomoi said professionals from the county Historical sites are meant to be protect- The chairman of the Malindi Green According to Dr Joseph Nzomoi, acting should offer civic education to the people to en- ed and taken care of as they not only Town Movement Mr Godfrey Karume chairman Kitui Professionals Forum, there able them be part of the nation’s level of 85 per remind a people of their history but is now calling for urgent measures to are vast coal deposits in Mwingi and Mutitu cent resources. He urged that this participation they also act as an income generating be taken to protect the pillar which has Districts within the vast county. should also go to the international level. activity. been attracting about at least 10 buses “The county has deposits of other minerals However, the same cannot be said of full of domestic tourists including stu- that include limestone in Mutomo District. Civic education the Vasco da Gama Pillar in Malindi. dents from upcountry schools in the Iron ore and several others are to be found in He reiterated that the District Develop- Years after the government promised recent past. the county,” Nzomoi explained. ment Plans (DDPs) in Kenya have been pre- to rehabilitate the pillar and protect it A lawyer from the region, Mr Eric Kyalo pared since 1974 as a means of implementing from erosion, the historical site which Erosion Mutua said there are laws and policies that the National Development Plans into district remains the greatest marketing tool The coral rocks holding the pillar govern operations of the coal industry. specific projects and programmes. The dis- for Malindi’s hospitality and tourism have been heavily eroded and cracks “Although Kenya intends to engage in coal trict development programmes are a mirror remains unprotected. It is now under have developed less than one metre to mining soon, it lacks adequate policy and le- image of Vision 2030. threat of total destruction by strong the pillar. The path leading to the his- gal frameworks to direct the industry,” Mutua “In 2008, during the preparations of the tidal waves. torical site, now managed by the Na- explained. current District Development Plans, Kitui This despite the fact that scientists tional Museum of Kenya, and where He listed the seven types of coal which are County had four districts which included Ki- warned that climate change is now tourists are charged to enter has about peat, lignite, sub-bituminous coal, bitumi- tui, Mwingi, Mutomo and Kyuso. Since then causing a rise in sea levels that could a metre completely eaten by ocean. nous coal, steam coal, anthracite and graphite. additional districts have been created in the destroy huge investments along the This means the pillar could end up be- Mutua revealed that in 2006 the world faced county by the government including Mutitu, Kenyan Coast. ing an island. a shortage of coal with about 6,743,786,000 Katulani, Ikutha, Muumoni and Nzambani,” Environmentalists in Malindi have The pillar, which is more than 500 tonnes. Nzomoi explained. called for immediate campaigns to pro- years old, was built by the Portuguese In reiterating the need to exploit coal, Mu- He said agriculture dominates the county tect the historical Vasco da Gama Pillar explorer Vasco da Gama and remains tua said 40 per cent of the world’s electric- since 80 percent of the people depend on it which is facing the risk of collapse due the most important tool in marketing ity comes from coal. “About 68.7 per cent of for their livelihood. The climate of the county to erosion from heavy waves. Malindi as a tourist destination. This is China’s electricity comes from coal; 53 percent is arid and semi-arid with very erratic rainfall. Six years ago, the Public Works De- because the coastal town hosted Vasco for South Africa and 49 per cent for the US, “The annual rainfall ranges between 500 partment placed estimated protection da Gama long before tourism became explained Mutua. -1050 millimetres with 40 per cent reliability. cost at KSh17 million after the Malindi popular. It was partially protected South Africa is the fifth largest coal pro- The long rains come in March-May and short Green Town Movement, an environ- through concrete pillars in the 1970s. ducer in the world. Due to use of coal as fuel rains come in November-December,” Nzo- mental lobby raised alarm over the The corals which were intact five for power generation, electricity in South Af- moi explained. heavy erosion towards the pillar. The years ago have been eaten from under- rica was four times cheaper than in Kenya. All the six constituencies in the county National Museums of Kenya under neath by the rising sea level and strong Coal is also used in the smelting industry to had been represented at the function. The whose docket safeguarding the pillar waves and a narrow path leading to make iron and steel. professionals asked the local Members of falls, insists that it has no funds to pro- the pillar has less than one metre re- In 2001, the Government started exploring Parliament to cooperate and work with them tect the pillar. The NMK charges a fee maining. coal in parts of Kitui and Mwingi districts. towards progressing the Kitui County for the The two were speaking during the Kitui benefits of the local people. ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth 15 Manga Escarpment: A mark of cultural history

Unknown to many Gusii residents, there By BEN OROKO is a unique cultural cave locally called En- goro A-Mwaga (an insatiable cave) at the The Western Kenya tourist circuit is en- Manga Escarpment which has cultural dowed with rich historical sites which have significance to the community since this cultural significance to the local commu- was the only point where they would seek nities. However, majority of them seem to cleansing intervention to start a new life af- have been forgotten and underutilised for ter burying their evil past at the site. the benefit of the immediate communities. Previously no one could visit the site One such important historical site that without collecting and tying firewood to- seems to have been forgotten to the disad- gether with traditional thatching grass (ob- An area resident points at ‘Ngoro’A vantage of the local community is Manga onyoru) and then throwing it into the cave mwaga’ (insatiable cave) where the Escarpment. This site has great cultural sig- after saying their problems that needed the Gusii people would go for prayers and nificance to the Gusii community. spirits’ intervention. It was only after this cleansing. ‘Igena Monto’(Human being- that the cleansing would be done. shaped stone) at the top of Manga Rich culture “If one had problems in his/her life, they Escarpment Pictures: Ben Oroko The Escarpment, said to be the commu- would collect firewood and tie with tradi- nity’s umbilical cord, is situated in the newly tional thatching grass before visiting the site from the evil past and new beginning.” created Manga District within Nyamira for cleansing,” explains Mugoya. If a woman had a problem giving birth, County. Mzee Peter Mugoya from Kian- she could collect firewood and tie them goso sub-location says Manga Escarpment Cleansing with green traditional thatching grass in has both historical and cultural significance Mzee Nyakundi Masankwa concurs three knots before visiting the site to an- to the community. with Mugoya saying one could not visit or nounce her problems. “The Escarpment has a rich cultural his- face the cultural site without the firewood “If the woman’s prayers were accepted tory and significance to the community since it was a sacred place. and she ended up conceiving, she would since it is culturally believed to be the origin The site was not for offering sacrifices later collect firewood and accompany it of the Gusii community,” explains Mugoya. but was purely a cultural site where Gusii with the first hair shaven from the child He regrets that though the Government people sought forgiveness and cleansing she was blessed with and take it to the site on the stone as they basked in the sun,” ex- and other stakeholders have not played a through intervention of ancestral spirits as thanksgiving,” explains Masankwa. plains Masankwa. significant role in the preservation of the believed to have lived at the site and were At the top of Manga Escarpment is Ige- Another significant point at the Manga Escarpment as a tourist attraction, the local directly linked with God. na Monto (human being-shaped stone) an Escarpment is a copter-shaped giant stone community has taken a leading responsibil- “The cultural cave could not be filled historical stone that resembles a seated per- locally identified as Rigena ria Menge ity in ensuring the community’s rich history with firewood thrown into it by those who son when viewed from a distance. Though (Menge’s stone) named after a local musi- is not interfered with. sought cleansing at the site. Immediately the physical features of the historical stone cian who could climb on the stone when Mugoya wants the ministries of National after one threw the firewood into the cave, have been altered through weathering and composing Kamba Nane or Obokano Heritage and Tourism promote Manga Es- it would disappear as the ancestral spirits human activities, formerly it resembled a songs meant to educate local community carpment as tourist attraction in the West- would take it to God,” explains Masankwa. human being seated when someone ap- members moral values in the society. ern circuit. He reiterates: “If the firewood disap- proached it from a far distance, terrifying On some occasions Menge would be However, there are plans by the Govern- peared immediately after it was thrown into some passersby who had no knowledge forced to stand on the stone and compose ment to rehabilitate Manga Escarpment’s the cave, it was believed the ancestral spirits about it. songs mocking women who did not want 50-year-old Baraza Hall with a bid to trans- had taken the firewood to God signalling “Old men from the community liked to get married and men who feared to be forming it into a community museum. acceptance of one’s prayers for cleansing taking traditional beer (Busaa) while seated circumcised. New route to Mt Kenya set to expand tourism By DAVID KIARIE growth,” explains Kibet.Climbers who use opportunities to the youth who will get The new route is an initiative by the this route that has been identified as eco- jobs as tour guides and porters. Embu County Council assisted by Runy- As the residents of the various counties nomically viable will be able to clearly see “There are many talented youths who enjes Member of Parliament Ms Cecily strategise on how they will harness the un- the Lenana peak as they ascend. will earn income through selling carvings, Mbarire, who is also an Assistant Minister exploited and underutilised resources avail- Presently, over 40,000 tourists who climb drawings, acrobat performances and danc- for Tourism. able in their areas, residents of Embu and the mountain annually use Chogoria, Naru es,” explains Wachira. He adds that this will The local authority has teamed up with Mbeere who form the Embu County are Moru and Sirimon routes in Meru and keep the young people engaged and free the Tourism Trust Fund, Kenya Wildlife exploring possibilities of venturing in the Nanyuki respectively. With the new route, from criminal activities. Service and the Kenya Forest Service to en- lucrative tourism sector. the tourist load will be distributed to the sure the new climbing route is a success. The community, which largely depends communities around the Embu area. Growth The business community is also expect- on agriculture for livelihood will soon get a “The Tourism Trust Fund will establish Clerk to the Embu County Council Sam- ed to reap from the venture. The Kenya Na- share of the tourism revenue following the an information centre at Irangi area in Mt. uel Kibaara is happy that the new route will tional Chamber of Commerce and Industry launching of a new route to climb Mount Kenya Forest and an eco-lodge facility at earn the local authority revenue running branch chairman, Mr Johnstone Nyaga says Kenya from Embu. Thambana, both of which are meant to serve into millions of shillings. “We shall collect traders in the area will now get a share of the The route, which was launched recently tourists who will be climbing the mountain revenue at entry points and from the tourist tourism income. by the Tourism Trust Fund, is set to be in from the Embu route,” explains Kibet. lodge which we shall construct and lease to “Tourism is one of the major sectors operation within less than two years. The new climbing route whose feasibility a private entrepreneur,” says Kibaara. that is driving the economy of this country study has already been funded to the tune of The route will spur growth in the area as and we now have an opportunity to bite Benefits KSh1.5 million by the Fund is expected to local farmers will get tenders to supply food the cake,” says Nyaga said. He reiterates According to the Fund’s acting chief ex- promote domestic tourism, market the lo- that will be used in lodge along the route to that traders in Embu town who normally ecutive, Mr Sammy Kibet the new route will cal community’s culture, help in forest con- the mountain while others will be employed depend on coffee and tea as well as civil enable climbers to approach the mountain servation and create job opportunities. in the hotels to serve the tourists. servants will have an alternative source of through Kianjokoma market, some 17 kilo- The climbers will also be able to visit Farmers, residents and matatu operators income. metres from Embu town. Mau Mau caves, watch birds and engage in are also set to benefit as the roads to the The business community has already “It will then meander into Mt Kenya activities like sport fishing and avi tourism. route will be all weather enabling smooth formed a group known as the Embu Tour- Forest through Thambana and Irangi spur- Martin Wachira, a local youth group transportation of farm produce, goods and ism Development Organisation whose ring major development and economic leader says the new route will offer great tourists. members have an interest in tourism. 16 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Self help group reaps the fruit of hard work

By GILBERT OCHIENG

Started six years ago, a community based organisation that was nurtured amid chal- lenges has every reason to smile. They are now reaping the fruits of their labour as the project has started to bear fruit. Members of Bumanyi soap processing self help group from Nasira sub-Location, Busibwabo Location, Matayos Division of Busia County have every reason to wear a smile on their faces. Bumanyi Community Interest Group was formed in 2004 with only seven members. It was officially registered with the Department of Social Services on April 7, 2005. The group’s chairperson, Ms Alice Nyongesa says the members’ main objec- tive was to establish a foundation of self reliance by engaging in income generat- ing activities so as to bring the dependency syndrome to its death bed. “The Department of Agriculture identified our village, Bumanyi, as one of the focal areas and gave us a grant of KSh120,000 under a programme known as ‘Njaa Marufuku Kenya’ in 2006,” ex- plains Nyongesa. She adds: “We withdrew KSh75,000 that was spent on a three day training workshop conducted by field of- ficers from the Department of Agricul- ture.” Soap making The group was trained on soap making as well as Tie and Dye. The membership has since increased to 22 —five men and Members of Bumanyi self help group display some of the products they 17 women. The members unanimously mary Nyongesa was all smiles saying they make. Apart from soap making, the group also bakes cakes and scones for agreed to contribute KSh500 each total- have been supported with hybrid seed and sale. Picture: Gilbert Ochieng ling KSh11,000 to facilitate further training fertilizers that have enabled them reap a in Uganda where they were subsequently higher agricultural turnover. taken through the soap making process and She says: “The group has enabled me to how to manufacture cassava starch for iron- provide for my family, pay tuition fees and ing clothes. also buy learning materials for my chil- “Apart from soap making as well as Tie dren.” and Dye, the group undertakes several ac- Diarrhoea continues to tivities like scones and cake baking. We sell Better lives these to local shop owners and individu- A village elder known as Dismas Odhia- claim the lives of children als,” says Nyongesa. The group also engag- mbo says the group has brought the com- munity together and uplifted their stand- es in table banking and farming. They also By Titus Maero conditions alone will not be enough as ards of livelihood. He can pocket between carry out livestock spraying at a fee of five long as children continue to remain sus- KSh200 and KSh300 per week from sale of shillings per head. As the world leaders prepare to take ceptible to diarrhoea. soap as well as cakes and scones which have Originally the group planned to manu- stock of the progress on the Millennium He was speaking during the launch a ready market. facture bar soaps but was forced to change Development Goals (MDGs), the battle of the Policy Guideline on the Control “Our first customer is our stomach. Dur- to liquid soap whose raw material was lo- of reducing child mortality by 2015 is and Management of Diarrhoea Disease ing the agricultural field days, we grab the cally available. With the bar soap they had yet to be won. in Children below the age of five years opportunity to sell our products to par- to travel all the way to Eldoret or Nairobi to “Diarrhoea remains the second in Western Province at the Kakamega ticipants and members of the public,” says purchase the chemicals. They also faced the leading cause of death among chil- Golf Hotel. Dismas ... He says their products are in high challenge of having small-scale machines dren under the age of five years,” said Onyango said evidence had shown demand. that could not produce adequate soap. Dr Godrick Onyango, Western Pro- that children with poor health and nu- Nyongesa underscores the importance “Our main objective is to transform the vincial Director of Medical Services. tritional status are more vulnerable to of the group’s activities. “Our mission is to group into a cottage industry that will pro- Onyango pointed out that the disease serious infections like acute diarrhoea work extra hard as a team, focus on the fu- vide employment opportunities especially is second only to pneumonia as the and also suffer multiple episodes every ture and that of our families in collaboration among the jobless youth in the area,” says cause of death among children even as year. with the relevant government departments Nyongesa. the MDGs call for drastic reduction in “Acute and prolonged diarrhoea ex- to eradicate poverty,” she concludes. An active member of the group, Rose- child mortality. acerbates poor health and malnutrition He said diarrhoea is more prevalent in children thereby creating a deadly cy- in Western Province due to poor sanita- cle,” he explained. “Our main objective is to transform the group into a cottage tion facilitated by among others lack of The launch of the guidelines at the clean safe drinking water which allow provincial level marked the first step industry that will provide employment opportunities diarrhoea causing pathogens to spread in rolling out the policy at the grass- especially among the jobless youth in the area,” more easily. roots level where the disease burden is The medic said improving sanitary greatest. — Alice Nyongesa, Chair Bumanyi Community Interest Group ISSUE 031, December 16-31, 2010 Unfiltered, uninhibited…just the gruesome truth 17 ACK gets set for its own varsity

By ERIC MUTAI “The church should be- come the cornerstone of the The Anglican Church of Kenya (ACK) in- value systems that will see the tends to build a church university at Kany- country achieve industrializa- uambora in Mbeere North district. tion by 2030,” said Wabukala. According to ACK archbishop Eliud The varsity will sit on a 100 Wabukala, the university will be opera- acre piece of land where the St tional before August next year before it John the Baptist Kanyuambora takes the first load of students. ACK Church, Kanyuambora Speaking at the proposed site when he Boys’ secondary school and received 100 acres and a conceptual paper Polytechnic currently stand. from the ACK University steering com- The other facilities in the mittee, Wabukala said that the church will compound will continue offer- also set up campuses in other parts of the ing their services and will form country. a part of an integrated institu- tion. Expansion Wabukala called on area “This main campus is just the beginning residents to ensure their as we will expand theological colleges to children get education and prepare them to become campuses of the benefit from the facility. He ACK archbishop Eliud Wabukhala receives the concept paper for the proposed ACK University,” he explained. He said the said young people should be university with bishop Masamba and Siakago MP Lenny kivuti (in white) as a university will help absorb hundreds of stu- encouraged to attain qual- member of the clergy (right) looks on. Picture: Eric Mutai dents who seek varsity education in foreign ity education and shun miraa countries. business that is common in Chairman of the steering committee, to have a university we own in entirety,” Kenyan students have been flocking the area and has seen many boys drop out Rev Dr Gideon Githaiga who also dou- said Githaiga. into Ugandan and Tanzanian universi- of school. bles as the director of the provincial board Area MP Lenny Kivuti presented the ties after they fail to secure places in the of education for the Anglican Church said conceptual paper and the land title deed public universities. Wabukala said that Opportunity other churches had established universi- which was transferred from the Embu the idea of a fully fledged Anglican Uni- “You are also going to benefit from this ties in different regions and the Anglican County Council to the university. versity has been long overdue and that the university as a market for your produce. I felt left out. Kivuti is also the chairman of Embu and church will put in place mechanisms that urge you to go into agro-economics and “As you know, we have a 50 per cent Mbeere leaders who have been agitating for will see its realization within the stipu- vegetable farming,” he urged the resi- stake at St Paul’s University and other de- the Embu Agricultural Staff Training (East) lated timeframe. dents. nominations own the other 50. We wanted to be upgraded to a university. Poor roads puts travellers Residents want electricity at mercy of rain to enable them go green By PAUL KIMANZI tain point. So every member has to By PAUL KIMANZI “Earlier in the month, my brother was draw the water from that point. forced to spend a night at Makindu as he If residents of Kitise, Makueni Dis- “A generator would have made it If vehicles headed for lower part of Makindu travelled from Mombasa to our home in Ka- trict were to get electricity today, they possible to pump the water to our would paint their land green. district will reach the upper parts, rain will tell. thonzweni when they received a call that the homesteads, making the water cheap- The residents say they have relied A matatu driver puts it, ‘when it rains, we will river was flooded,” recalls Janet Ndunge. er and enable us do irrigation,” said so much on relief foods but would not cross over’. Drivers from Wote have to confirm that the Mrs Nelly Nzioki, a project member. now like to invest in agriculture. This grim picture paints the poor road in- river has not flooded before they can proceed A 20-litre jerrican costs seven shil- lings, which is often beyond their frastructure that travelers in Makueni have to with the journey once they arrive at Mbuvo. Water project endure particularly when it rains. The same applies for vehicles coming from the reach given the poor economic back- The worst point is at River Kiangini, which opposite side. The community is running the ground of the land. connects Makueni and Kibwezi constituen- A business man identified as Ken Kilonzi Kitise Water Project which may col- Commitment cies. What could have saved the situation is from Kitui County admitted he withdrew his lapse because there is no electricity to a bridge that was being constructed but was vehicles from using the road due to its poor pump water. They currently rely on a Those involved in the projects have never completed. state as one of his Nissan Matatus nearly small generator which may not sur- vowed that if they were to get electric- Vehicles which use Wote-Makindu road, broke down after using the road for barely a vive for long due to too many break- ity, they would change the history of about 24 kilometers, are forced to take a ‘U month. downs. The water is pumped from the area and the negative perception turn’ when they reach the bridge after down “If this situation continues, we will forever Athi River which passes through that they cannot produce agricultural pour. This road passes along various stages remain underdeveloped,” said Paul Nzioki, Ukambani. products. like; Mbuvo, Kitise, Athiani as well as lower from Kitise location, who is a part time lecturer. The project is based in Kitise Lo- “We are suffering amid plenty,” said parts of Makindu and Kathonzweni loca- Area residents are calling on the government cation but members of the group a local resident Paul Nzioki, as he re- tions. to address the matter. running the project say the generator ferred to plenty of water around their cannot pump the water beyond a cer- area but was of no use to them.

Executive Director: rosemary Okello-Orlale Write to: Programme Coordinator: Wilson Ugangu Editor: Jane Godia [email protected] Sub-Editors: Florence Sipalla and Mercy Mumo Designer: Noel Lumbama Contributors: Benson Mwanga, Hussein Dido, Eliud Waithaka, Kigondu Ndavano, George Murage, Jeff Mwangi, Joseph Mukubwa, Chrispinus Omar, Omondi Akuno, The paper is produced with funds from Diana Wanyonyi, Rachel Muthoni, Kariuki Mwangi, Paul Mwaniki, Ryan Mathenge, Paul Halisi, Boniface Mulu, David Kiarie, Ben Oroko, Gilbert www.mediadiversityafrica.org Ochieng, Titus Maero, Paul Kimanzi and Eric Mutai.