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Wine Tasting, Second Edition: a Professional Handbook

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Wine Tasting, Second Edition: a Professional Handbook Wine Tasting: A Professional Handbook Second Edition Food Science and Technology International Series Series Editor Steve L. Taylor University of Nebraska – Lincoln, USA Advisory Board Ken Buckle The University of New South Wales, Australia Mary Ellen Camire University of Maine, USA Roger Clemens University of Southern California, USA Hildegarde Heymann University of California – Davis, USA Robert Hutkins University of Nebraska – Lincoln, USA Ron S. Jackson Quebec, Canada Huub Lelieveld Bilthoven, The Netherlands Daryl B. Lund University of Wisconsin, USA Connie Weaver Purdue University, USA Ron Wrolstad Oregon State University, USA A complete list of books in this series appears at the end of this volume. Wine Tasting: A Professional Handbook Second Edition Ronald S. Jackson Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute, Brock University, St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada Academic Press is an imprint of Elsevier 30 Corporate Drive, Suite 400, Burlington, MA 01803, USA 525 B Street, Suite 1900, San Diego, California 92101-4495, USA 84 Theobald’s Road, London WC1X 8RR, UK Copyright # 2009, Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Permissions may be sought directly from Elsevier’s Science & Technology Rights Department in Oxford, UK: phone: (þ44) 1865 843830, fax: (þ44) 1865 853333, E-mail: [email protected] You may also complete your request online via the Elsevier homepage (http://elsevier.com), by selecting “Support & Contact” then “Copyright and Permission” and then “Obtaining Permissions.” Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data APPLICATION SUBMITTED British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN: 978-0-12-374181-3 For information on all Academic Press publications visit our Web site at www.elsevierdirect.com Printed in the United States of America 091098765432 1 Dedication To my wife, Suzanne Ouellet v This page intentionally left blank Table of Contents PREFACE .............................................................................................xv ACKNOWLEDGMENTS..........................................................................xix ABOUT THE AUTHOR ..........................................................................xxi CHAPTER 1 Introduction..................................................................... 1 Tasting Process...........................................................................1 Appearance ............................................................................4 Clarity ...............................................................................4 Color .................................................................................5 Viscosity ............................................................................6 Spritz ................................................................................6 Tears.................................................................................6 Odor ......................................................................................6 Orthonasal (in-glass) Odor...................................................6 In-mouth Sensations .............................................................14 Taste and Mouth-feel........................................................14 Odor—Retronasal .............................................................16 Finish ..................................................................................18 Overall Quality ..................................................................... 19 Postscript ............................................................................ 21 References ...............................................................................22 CHAPTER 2 Visual Perceptions.......................................................... 27 Color ........................................................................................27 Color Perception and Measurement........................................ 27 Significance in Tasting ......................................................... 32 Origin and Characteristics ..................................................... 34 Red Wines .......................................................................34 Rose´ Wines......................................................................40 White wines .....................................................................40 Clarity ......................................................................................41 Crystals ............................................................................... 41 Sediment............................................................................. 42 vii viii Table of Contents Proteinaceous Haze .............................................................. 43 Phenolic Haze...................................................................... 43 Casse .................................................................................. 43 Deposits on Bottle Surfaces .................................................. 44 Microbial Spoilage................................................................ 44 Viscosity ...................................................................................45 Spritz .......................................................................................46 Tears........................................................................................48 Suggested Readings ..................................................................49 References ...............................................................................49 CHAPTER 3 Olfactory Sensations....................................................... 55 Olfactory System .......................................................................56 Nasal Passages .................................................................... 56 Olfactory Epithelium, Receptor Neurons, and Cerebral Connections.....................................................................58 Odorants and Olfactory Stimulation ............................................65 Chemical Compounds Involved ...................................................68 Acids................................................................................... 69 Alcohols .............................................................................. 69 Aldehydes and Ketones .........................................................69 Acetals ................................................................................ 70 Esters ..................................................................................70 Hydrogen Sulfide and Organosulfur Compounds...................... 71 Hydrocarbon Derivatives........................................................ 72 Lactones and Other Oxygen Heterocycles ............................... 73 Terpenes and Oxygenated Derivatives .....................................73 Phenolics ............................................................................ 74 Pyrazines and Other Nitrogen Heterocyclics............................ 75 Sensations from Trigeminal Nerve ..............................................75 Vomeronasal Organ....................................................................76 Odor Perception ........................................................................77 Sources of Variation in Olfactory Perception ................................87 Odor Assessment in Wine Tasting ...............................................97 Off-Odors..................................................................................98 Acetic Acid (Volatile Acidity)................................................. 99 Baked ................................................................................. 99 Buttery ................................................................................ 99 Corky/Moldy ......................................................................... 99 Ethyl Acetate ..................................................................... 100 Ethyl Phenols..................................................................... 100 Table of Contents ix Fusel................................................................................. 101 Geranium-like .................................................................... 101 Light Struck....................................................................... 101 Mousy ............................................................................... 101 Oxidation........................................................................... 102 Reduced-Sulfur Odors......................................................... 103 Sulfur Odor........................................................................ 104 Untypical Aging Flavor (untypischen Alterungsnote, UTA)...... 104 Vegetative Odors ................................................................ 104 Other Off-Odors.................................................................. 105 Chemical Nature of Varietal Aromas......................................... 105 Suggested Readings ............................................................... 111 References ............................................................................ 112 CHAPTER 4 Taste and Mouth-Feel
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