by Michael C. Gross 10t'S
robably the most sought-after folkway of the Volga Ger mans is the delightful, hearty German cuisine. Its narrow range of foodstuffs demanded an intuitive cook. The re cipes have retained rna ny original ingredients because Ised there were no better ways to obtain the fullest Oa vor and nutrition. Most of the dishes appear today under various lames and descriptions. However they may be named or described, they are still approached with reverence by the descendents of the or iainaJ settlers who brought this great cuisine to the plains of Kansas. One hundred years of living in Russia had served to modify the .food habits of the Germans. At first they had considered Russian food too unappetizing and craved the butter, eggs, and meat enjoyed in their old country. Through necessity they accepted Russian foods while retaining as many of the German seasonings and methods of prepara
( J. tion as possible. Common dishes were cabbage and meat soup, clab 'nee bcred milk or soured cream, potatoes, bread, cheese, butter, and eggs. Iga When they came to America, there was little pleasure for the ler- early setters. Their lives consisted of work from dawn until dusk. This necessitated everyone eating what and when they could. The fact that every iota of foodstuffs, what little there was, had to be stretched in bider to feed a lot of hard-working people was the principal factor !tlthe uniqueness of Volga German cuisine. Because I obtained my in formation by working around the problem of "if we had it to eat," itis obvious that the "hard times" tempered what we now call "that JOOd old German cooking." Grandmother tells of when her parents rigidly enforced frugality so much that even when the season was right and food and money a little more plentiful, wastage of any sort was considered a serious sin. When an animal was butchered, everything was used: the meat. the entrails for sausage casing, the hide for leather, the hooves for wursts and various gelatin salads, and the hair for stuff ing pillows, mattresses, or even a home-made doll for one of the child ren. The Volga German appreciated a good meal after a hard day of making ends meet in the early days of Kansas. He relished the most basic foods as though they were delicacies. In the earliest years of the settlements it was extremely difficult to obtain some of the spices, meats, and vegetables that had been eaten in the old country. 31 .....,
The Volga German settlers' cookery is marked by regional vari ation. They came from different parts of the Volga area of Russia. and during the century in Russia each part developed distinctive foods. Their recipes have been diffused regionally into folk-cultural provin ces. such as the Schoenchen area. Victoria area. Pfeifer area. Cath erine area. etc. The cookery complex. including attitudes, meal sys tems, and eating habits in the settlers' society, is largely dependant on the cultural areas of origin and on intermarriages. Because of the variations involved when two people from different communities mar ried, many of the decendants developed their own unique cookery. Many recipes since the original settlement have been diffused into our present culture. One reason for the survival of the old cuisine would without a doubt be the robust flavor and nutritional quality of the dishes prepared. Unlike us today. the settlers had no vitamin supple· ments to their diets. They relied solely on a balanced meal whenever possible. My ancestry holds the family unit the center of all activity. With a family clan of eight families of from three to seven children each, a lot of people had to secure an abundance of food when money was short. Much happiness came from seeing each other sitting together at the dinner table, all with admiration for each one's contribution to the reverent thanks-giving of food and togetherness.' There was an effort to make that very basic event of life one that was always looked forward to, no matter what the occasion. Holidays, weddings. or any other special occasion by tradition demanded more elaboration in the feast. For instance, the gesture of offering food in procession is a favor ite form of devotion with the people of my family and adds dignity and solemnity to a number of feasts celebrated throughout the year. Food is considered the most solemn offer of friendship and respect on any occasion good or bad. Food is always looked upon as the final result of many long hard days of toil and devotion to the security of the fam ily. The actual amount of food or the time and energy that went into it are seldom considered in the gesture itself. The offer also brings wide open opportunity to express the desire to excel and always show your best.' On any day, no matter how hard it was to get food. the cook of the house was busy prepari ng a meal. The most basic of all staple diets
"'lnfcldl. \11 .llld "lr~ \ J hr... L-'i!:ener.llHlll (lerm'lrl-Ru~"Ian-,\mef1~.ln~ \~e ...,"" .. nd "-l re"pe..:ll\ch Pa'lJllu! InfUIIt'k (i,lrhanl. )\i.ln ... a ... ~eplemher. 14 7 ':' Sccond-(I!eneralion German- RusMan·Amerlcan ~ (')Il ... en~u~ Inlcnle'A ,11 \~Jlh;j, Vh.:ke\ R,)heTl ('U"I&I, "')lephen, Denr1l .... (Jer' \,1kcll ,l\ \n')u ...l! i ... Im!l, Re-U111,)n lfl (/lHh,JnL t\.dn ... .l.... Juneb, l\}" 32 33 The Volga German settlers' cookery is marked by regional vari was handled with utmost care, for c ation. They came from different parts of the Volga area of Russia, and woman to express her concern for h' during the century in Russia each part developed distinctive foods. happy household and orderly life.) Their recipes have been diffused regionally into folk-cultural provin ing place in the home where everyo ces, such as the Schoenchen area, Victoria area, Pfeifer area, Cath the same time, which is thus the most erine area, etc. The cookery complex. including attitudes, meal sys On a typical day Mother and tems. and eating habits in the settlers' society, is largely dependant morning. Dad would go out and get on the cultural areas of origin and on intermarriages. Because of the Mother collected everything she nee, variations involved when two people from different communities mar est residing son would collect eggs ried. many of the decendants developed their own unique cookery. time everyone else, except the ver~ Many recipes since the original settlement have been diffused into morning chores before breakfast. Br 'I our present culture. One reason for the survival of the old cuisine eggs, potatoes, bread, and butter. If would without a doubt be the robust flavor and nutritional quality of brated, there might be some leftov the dishes prepared. Unlike us today, the settlers had no vitamin supple· wurst, or pastries of sort. When eve ments to their diets. They relied solely on a balanced meal whenever would be off to school while Dad an possible. and Mother stayed behind with t My ancestry holds the family unit the center of all activity. With household in order and readied thin a family clan of eight families of from three to seven children each, Lunch was usually a very casu a lot of people had to secure an abundance of food when money was of snacking on a sandwich of leftov short. Much happiness came from seeing each other sitting together milk or coffee. There were usually w at the dinner table, all with admiration for each one's contribution to serole made from them. This meal the reverent thanks-giving of food and togetherness.' There was an the amount of food needed for supper: effort to make that very basic event of life one that was always looked When everyone returned home forward to, no matter what the occasion. Holidays, weddings, or any handled first while preparation for other special occasion by tradition demanded more elaboration in the This was the largest meal of the da feast. gether longer to talk afterward. For instance, the gesture of offering food in procession is a favor scampering about getting cleaned . ite form of devotion with the people of my family and adds dignity and gather around a table set with beer.' solemnity to a number of feasts celebrated throughout the year. Food of vegetables and salads. The beef is considered the most solem n offer of friendship and respect on any the fowl was usually chicken which t occasion good or bad. Food is always looked upon as the final result fisherman and always had some catfi of many long hard days of toil and devotion to the security of the fam Many times these basic staple ily. The actual amount of food or the time and energy that went into it selves. Instead, much more zest was are seldom considered in the gesture itself. The offer also brings wide pared the old German way. Even th open opportunity to express the desire to excel and always show your diet was usually given a particular ta best.' tors. This German food flavor is 0 On any day. no matter how hard it was to get food, the cook of the dients as sour cream, vinegar, onion house was busy preparing a meal. The most basic of all staple diets salt. and a variety of mixed picklin ingredients. though seldom used all ties of retaining their flavors. Grand \')Ilteld\. "vtr ,ll1d \1r~ \.J Flr,t-F-ener.ltion (jerman·Ru ...... ian-Amerl..:an... ·\ge 7~ LInd 74 respectl\d~ Pen-cmul !/!/t'Tllt'l\ (i,)rh"m. Kan ... a.... Seplemher. 197~ (,lIhen ... u ... lrtler\le\\. llt ·\,I.!.lLh...l. V " .. ke\, Roher!. (jU-'I.l\. Slerhen. Dennl .... Genal ... e Vonfeldl. Pef.l'OIwllnter\'Wk Se(nnd-fleneration German-Ru'isian lakel1dl \rlllULtll-dmlh ReUllldll In (lilfh.Jnl. Kan ... a.... June h. I'n~ 32 3 ~----- l\ was handled with utmost care, for cooking was the favorite way for a woman to express her concern for her family's welfare, to maintain a happy household and orderly life.' The dinner table is the one meet ing place in the home where everyone is together in the same place at the same time. which is thus the most cherished. On a typical day Mother and Dad would be the first up in the morning. Dad would go out and get wood for the stove and oven while Mother collected everything she needed to prepare breakfast. The old est residing son would collect eggs in the chicken house and by that time everyone else. except the very young. would begin with their morning chores before breakfast. Break fast usual Iy consisted of bacon. eggs. potatoes. bread, and butter. If recently a holiday had been cele brated. there might be some leftover dawgen, or mflultaschen. liver wurst, or pastries of sort. When everyone ate their fill. the youngsters would be off to school while Dad and the oldest children went to work and Mother stayed behind with the very young. Mother kept the household in order and readied things for lunch and supper. Lunch was usually a very casual affair that most often consisted of snacking on a sandwich of leftover beef. tomatoes. lettuce. catsup. milk or coffee. There were usually warmed up leftovers or a quick cas serole made from them. This meal was usually kept simple because of the amount of food needed for supper. When everyone returned home for the evening. the chores were handled first while preparation for supper was nearing completion. This was the largest meal of the day, and everyone would remain to gether longer to talk afterward. Members of the family would be scampering about getting cleaned up for supper. Everyone would gather around a table set with beef, fowl. or fish. and various kinds of vegetables and salads. The beef was bought or bartered for. while the fowl was usually chicken which the family raised. Dad was a great • fisherman and always had some catfish from the creek. Many times these basic staple foods were not prepared by them selves. Instead. much more zest was added to the meal when it was pre pared the old German way. Even the most basic of foods in our family diet was usually given a particular taste that was favored by our ances tors. This German food flavor is obtained by the use of such ingre dients as sour cream, vinegar. onions. mustard, pepper. yeast. allspice. salt, and a variety of mixed pickling spices. It is noted that all these ingredients, though seldom used all at once, have characteristic quali ties of retaining their flavors. Grandmother tells of when not only the \ec\ll1d-.'!t"lleraU\)I' CH:rm.\r-Ru~~l.ln \merll...ln \flt" "0 PeTl()!/ullll/t'TI/t'''' fL\ .... I\..tn"...I" 33 flavor qualities of the ingredients were considered but also their cook vorite. The ingredients are the sa ing compatabibity and preservative qualities. She often prepared var days: ious stews and fruits and vegetables for canning. It is important that the food retain the nutrition and personally favored taste as it did when 2 lbs of boiling beef prepared. Also, conventional canning and preserving methods were 1/, cup of mixed pickling spi not yet prasticed in the early days. Only the most natural and effective with emphasis on the fav traditionally proven methods were employed. Grandmother did not 2 medium sized onions want to take even the smallest chance that someone might get sick 8 medium sized potatoes from bad food. Moreover, there was a note of pride involved in doing Ih cu p (or more to taste) of vin something the way the old folks used to do.' :2 cups sour cream (not comm My own parents did not have to cook for their family out of the clabbers smoother) same hardships. When their generation was maturing, they ate those Butterballs. They are made as old German foods because of their practical values and because that 7 cups bread crumbs was the way Grandmother knew best how to cook. However, when 1/2 t. ofsalt hard times became more relaxed at the end of the Depression, many 1/, t. of allspice women were more relaxed in their responsibilities. The transportation I to 1- 11.1 sticks ofsoften of food by rail and truck in bulk made it possible to buy food as cheap 5 eggs as you could grow it, in terms of energy.' These ingredients a There are a variety of meals and snacks that have special taste a large mixing bowl. W appeal to me. Except for a few elaborations here and there, the old marble-sized portions. ideas and values still remain. I think perhaps the older generations are containers and frozen for a bit prouder of their heritage than we in later 20th century. The facts of life still remain to dominate subsistance, and the old German Place the pickling spices ont "waste-not" continues to feed its people. into a pouch. Place thebeef and t Many of us who are descendants of the Volga Germans hope to water and cook just until the meat see a rebirth of the cookery of this great and strong ancestry. Folk bite-sized pieces, and place back cookery has preserved some of the old methods of food preparation. to make back up to 6 cups of b The most popular methods are pickling, souring, drying, and smoking. cook in the broth until nearly do The real pleasure of eating German cooking must be experienced to be cooking until they are done. This throughly enjoyed and appreciated. tenderness of the butterballs while Most German dishes demand care and a certain unexplainable Now add the vinegar and stir in w knack of knowing how to obtain just the right taste. I have eaten many cream slowly. Continue cooking German foods taken from the same basic recipes by several different ture until it starts to clabber. Rem cooks and have discovered that each preparation claims its own part gar may be added at the table to ta icular difference in taste. This is undoubtedly my favor We all have our personal favorites, just as our ancestors had it contains all the basic nutritional theirs. One of mine is sour soup, or German wedding soup as it is also the favored meat used in this sou known. This is a dish that requires preparing a good number of times better beef-tasting broth. This r before the right taste is attained. There are a number of ways of pre Many vegetables may be used in a paring this dish, but the way my grandmother fixes it is still my fa This dish was originally used new bride and groom at their w remember when sour soup was cast-iron pots over a large fire in '\ (lflfeldl \ (llltelJI made, the better it tasted. 34 vorite. The ingredients are the same as used by her mother in the early days: 21bs of boiling beef 1/, cup of mixed pickling spices (this is a combination of spices with emphasis on the favored taste) 2 medium sized onions 8 medium sized potatoes lie cup (or more to taste) of vinegar 2 cups sour cream (not commercial because natural soured cream clabbers smoother) Butterballs. They are made as follows: 7 cups bread crumbs 112 t. of salt 1/, t. of allspice 1 to 1- \/4 sticks of softened butter 5 eggs These ingredients are all mixed well together at once in a large mixing bowl. When the mixture is consistent, form marble-sized portions. These butterballs may be placed in containers and frozen for convenient use. Place the pickling spices onto a square of cloth and tie securely into a pouch. Place the beef and the pouch of spices in about 6 cups of water and cook just until the meat is tender. Remove the meat, cut into bite-sized pieces, and place back into the broth. Add enough water to make back up to 6 cups of broth. Chop onions and potatoes and cook in the broth until nearly done. Add the butterballs and continue cooking until they are done. This may require frequent checking of the tenderness of the butterballs while cooking. They should be fairly firm. Now add the vinegar and stir in well. Next. while stiring, add the sour cream slowly. Continue cooking without stirring and watch the mix ture until it starts to clabber. Remove from heat and serve. More vine gar may be added at the table to taste. This is undoubtedly my favorite food. Not only is it delicious, but it contains all the basic nutritional staple foods as well. I may add that the favored meat used in this soup is beef heart. It seems to make a better beef-tasting broth. This recipe is not limited in its ingredients. Many vegetables may be used in addition to the ones suggested. This dish was originally used as a processional food offering to the new bride and groom at their wedding feast. In my own generation I remember when sour soup was prepared in 5-15 gallon quantities in cast-iron pots over a large fire in the yard. It seems like the more you made, the better it tasted. 35 Another favorite is called dawgen. It is a spicy, tasty way of mak Pinch corners of dough squares to ing potato pancakes in sauce. This was many times prepared with Boil these pouches in salt water fl roast beef, hamburger, or fish, and is prepared as follows: the cream and butter over the p 6 cups of grated potatoes (squeezed dry) (Cottage cheese may also be seaso ., III cup grated onions At times, labeshka, a fried 4 eggs night or as a part of lunch or brl I t. salt that can be made from any whit '14 t. pepper the bread dough and let it rise' '12-2 cups sour cream (again it is preferable to use natural sour dough and stretch them over the cream) or shortening and brown on both 51 Start by placing the grated potatoes in a cloth bag and squeeze 2 inches deep in the pan.) Remo out the liquid until the potatoes are quite dry. Save the liquid and let towels. Serve hot with honey, syru the starch settle while mixing together the potatoes, onions, eggs, salt, This last treat was usually pepper, and enough milk to make a consistency similar to pancake rahm noodles (cream noodles). batter. Pour the potato liquid off the starch and add the starch to the recipe for any biscuit dough. Ad potato mixture. Pour into a buttered pan so the mixture is 1'/2 inches and cinnamon. deep in the pan. Bake for I hour in a 350" pre-heated oven. (When Make the biscuit dough and automatic temperature cooking was not available, the heat was cal and the thickness of your thumb. culated as about normal for most baking purposes.) Pour the sour in a buttered baking dish. Pour cream over the baked potato mixture for the last 15 to 20 minutes of rolls. Sprinkle lightly with sugar' baking. When cooking time is completed, remove from heat and serve until biscuits are lightly browned hot. the dough. Serve them hot. Desserts were of course a favorite but were seldom eaten right The selection of foods presen_o after a meal. In our family, we saved the dessert until we were comfor simplicity and wholesomeness of table and could enjoy it. There was one food, however, that was a des uine old dishes are definitely cons sert and sometimes eaten as a complete lunch. It is called maultaschen cular sour German food taste tha (pockets) and is a kind of fruit pastry smothered in sweet cream. The remember sitting at the table lis favored fruit used was schwarzenbeeren. or blackberries or lone contents of a particular food ite berries as they are called now. They are a fast-growing, abundant elusion that it surely will be a go bearing plant that is found in most gardens in Ellis County and are it is. also found along the river banks. To make schwarzenbeeren maultaschen assemble the following ingredients: 2 cups tlour I t. sal t 1 cu p sugar I quart of berries '/2 cu p bu tier I cu p sweet cream I cup browned-in-butter bread crumbs I egg Mix the flour, salt. and egg with water to make a stiff dough. Rollout to 11K inch thickness. Mix the berries, sugar, and a little flour. Place a tablespoon of berries on center of dough cut into squares. 36 I I Pinch corners of dough squares together over berries to make a pocket. Boil these pouches in salt water for 10 to 15 minutes, then drain. Pour the cream and butter over the pockets and top with buttered crumbs. (Cottage cheese mal' also be seasoned and used in the pockets.) At times. labeshka, a fried bread. was served as a snack before night or as a part of lunch or breakfast. This is a very simple snack that can be made from any white bread dough recipe. Mix together the bread dough and let it rise as for making bread. Pinch balls of dough and stretch them over the hand into thin circles. Place in hot oil or ",hortening and brown on both sides. (Have oil or shortening at least 2 inches deep in the pan.) Remove the fried bread and drain well on towels. Serve hot with honey, syrup, cinnamon, or sweet cream. This last treat was usually in competition for popularity with rahm noodles (cream noodles). Rahm noodles are made by using the recipe for any biscuit dough. Additional ingredients are cream. sugar. and cinnamon. Make the biscuit dough and form into rolls about 2 inches long and the thickness of your thumb. Place side b} side (barely touching) in a buttered baking dish. Pour sweet cream over it all to cover the rolls. Sprinkle lightly with sugar and cinnamon and bake In 350" oven until biscuits are lightly browned and cream is nearly all absorbed by the dough. Serve them hot. The selection of foods presented is not large. but it represents the simplicit\ and wholesomeness of whatever we had to eat. Most gen uine old dishes are definitely considered delicacies because of a parti cular sour German food taste that not many seem to agree on. I can remember sitting at the table listening to everyone debating on the contents of a particular food item. and alwa}s coming to the con clusion that it surely will be a good eating experience no maller what it is. 37 Volga Ger by Marj n 1972 students in m booklet of the recipes the introduction to t by the students: During harvest ti children (schoolage), 4:30 a.m. to begin the preparatio Not only did bread have to be ba ed, house put in order, etc., but 0 ing the feeding of the horses. H nor a 4 o'clock lunch; they were 51. Joseph's Church, Hays. time for a good morning meal, as imals. In an interview with Mrs. J to when she and her husband wo Since there were fourteen childre ful crop each year. She also refe members of the family took care and the boys worked long hours' forgotten was that when Mrs. A make eight loaves, which did not 1 Mrs. Domatilla Pfannenstie fresh bread (sliced) and sliced raw coffee, and schviele mouldosh of a folks came in to the house at no fried potatoes, schviele mouldosh gar water; and Mrs. said it's ver onion in vinegar, custard, or sc butter, and coffee. Chicken and potato meals on some days. (F pepper was only placed on table fl In summer, when eggs were she used five or six egg yolks in them richer and a very stable fo teen or so hours a day. (In win 51. Joseph', Church. Liebenthal. fewer, and winter noodles for the. two egg yolks.) For present-da 38