MATEC Web of Conferences 154, 01118 (2018) https://doi.org/10.1051/matecconf/201815401118 ICET4SD 2017 The effect of microwax composition on the staining quality of Klowong Batik Wax Abdul Malik1,*, Fety Ilma Rahmillah2, Bayu Dwi Atmaja3, and Bilal Fatihul Ihsan4 1,3,4Department of Chemical Engineering, Islamic University of Indonesia, Jl. Kaliurang Km 14.5, Yogyakarta, Indonesia 2Department of Industrial Engineering, Islamic University of Indonesia, Jl. Kaliurang Km 14.5, Yogyakarta, Indonesia Abstract. Batik is one of the most highly developed Indonesian art forms that had been designated by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Batik wax is considered as the main material to make Batik, especially for handmade Batik in which the pattern and carve applied directly by the artisans. Melted wax (Malam) is made from a mixture of melted damar mata kucing, gondorukem, beeswax, and paraffin. This study aimed to substitute the beeswax which was difficult to find into microwax made from paraffin which is available in huge amount as well as easily searchable. Microwax varied as many as four samples with the equal variable. The samples were then tested used Spectrophotometer to test the colour difference, colour ageing test, rub test (wet, dry, and endurance soap). The results showed that microwax can be used to substitute the function of beeswax with appropriate composition. It is highly expected that the increasing of melted wax quality can increase the quality of Batik itself as well as the preservation of Indonesian Batik as a cultural heritage. 1 Introduction Experiences made people mix the pure malam or beeswax with plants such as Gondorukem and Damar In a piece of batik cloth, there are social, cultural, as well Mata kucing. Then, animal lard or palm oil can be added as economic values which promote the honour of to smooth and lower the melting point. In the last process Indonesia [1]. In addition, Batik had been appointed as the of making batik, the entire wax is removed with hot water masterpiece of an oral and intangible heritage of humanity added, so that the batik wax off and after water used to by UNESCO [2]. The batik method dyeing also has been remove wax becomes cold, it will be frozen and then it applied to tanned leather [3]. can be taken back. Wax derived from removal called used Batik wax is considered as the main material to make wax or black wax, because the colour is black. The former Batik, especially for handmade Batik in which the pattern wax mixed again in the manufacture of a mixture of new and carve applied directly by the artisans. Batik wax is the wax. Principally, the work process of malam and dye in material used to cover parts of cloth that are not to be making batik use two opposite materials like oil and dyed. Batik wax is not only composed of one material, but water. While the oil contains wax, the dye contains water. a mixture of several basic wax materials such as residue Certain parts waxed automatically cannot be penetrated of pine-gum distillation (gondorukem), Damar Mata by the dye [8]. kucing (Shorea javanica), paraffin (white and yellow), Research about Batik wax is rarely conducted. Scholar microwax, animal fat (Kendal, animal lard), coconut oil, [4] identify the effect of natural resin composition on beeswax, and lancing wax. Beeswax is used for its temperature of wax removing for batik natural dye, while malleability, paraffin is for friability, resins can be added [5] determine the composition of shorea javanica required to increase the adhesiveness, while the animal fats can on klowong batik wax, and [6] research about good make greater liquidity [8]. quality wax measured by ten testing items that become the All of the ingredients have different prices. Beeswax standard criterion which has to be done by batik artisans is the most expensive component which is usually used in who act as the raters. Study [6] conducted by using a the formula to produce the finest quality of batik. many-facet Rasch model (MFRM) which at the same time Beeswax or lancing wax has been used since the measures the quality of the batik wax, the quality of the beginning of creating Batik motive process. These animal testing items, and the severity level of the rates. Scholar wax usually called as “malam”, therefore it is common to [7] use another material to make wax, so called soy wax call “malam Batik”. At the earlier times, javanese people in which the number of material used and the ratio is tend to use beehive for batik, because there is a hexagonal varied depending on the use and the experiences of the structure made from a kind of wax which composed of artisan. ester fatty acid and long-chain alcohol compounds [8]. According to the literature, no study tries to substitute the beeswax which was difficult to find into microwax * Corresponding author: [email protected] © The Authors, published by EDP Sciences. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License 4.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/). MATEC Web of Conferences 154, 01118 (2018) https://doi.org/10.1051/matecconf/201815401118 ICET4SD 2017 made from paraffin which is availale in huge amount as well as easily searchale. Therefore, this paper aims to Dry & Wet Rub Test know the potency of microwax as a substitute of beeswax 5.0 and to know the influence of microwax composition 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 towards a staining uality of lowong Batik wax. 4.0 3.0 Index 2.0 2 Method 1.0 The tools used for the experiment are 0.0 a. To make batik patterns pencil and mori cloth A B C D commonly used for atik. Microwax Composition . o make the sample for experiments wok to heat the wax), stove, stirring tool, and mould to relocate the wax samples. Fig 1. Dry and wet rub test our samples with different composition of microwax A- r, B- r, C- r, and - r) were used. he 3.2 Color Fastness Test variations can e used to know its influence on the quality of wax. he experimental steps are making the sample and This test plays an important role because it assesses the pattern the process of making Batik colouring process fastness of the cloth dyeing as well as it can e used as a removal wax process; and oservation process. decision-making tool in dye selection. ompared to The colouring process for four samples was done by samples A and B, samples C and et a hiher value of the same treatment with small doses of the same naphthol, 4.5 which is just differ .5. soaking the same time and the same drying time. o, from four samples were obtained the results of the same colour and the same relative. After dyeing finished sample of sie Color Fastness Test 4.5 4.5 5x5 will be tested y firing spectrophotometer to test how 5.0 4.0 4.0 well the wax covers the staining of a pattern. hen, some 4.0 tests were done to the atik cloth such as dry and wet rub 3.0 test, colour fastness test, colour aeing tests, and colour Index 2.0 different test. he uestionnaire was used as a ualitative 1.0 analysis involving eiht respondents and three questions related to the quality of alam, Batik patterns, and 0.0 staining results. A B C D Microwax Composition 3 Results and Discussion Fig 2. Color fastness test This study uses microwax as the material to make Batik wax. icrowax is derived from refined paraffin wax) which is from petroleum refineries. he properties of Color Aging Test microwax resemble beeswax flexilelitheductile and easy to e removed. ts flexibility similar with eeswax 120 104.23 (kote, so that it can e used to substitute or reduce the use 100 of eeswax. icrowax properties are melting at 70 80 60 derees elsius, taking a long time to melt it easy off in 23.65 40 15.97 14.27 16.3 a water ath, hard to penetrate the faric, and resistant to Score (R%) 20 alkaline solution. f these properties, microwax was fit to 0 be the main material in this study which is to know the white A B C D effect of its composition on Batik staining. ere is the cotton results of the tests conducted toward four samples. Sample 3.1 Dry and Wet Rub Test Fig 3. Color aging test According to the analysis of colour fastness test shown in iure 1, all the varied experiments showed ood index and the different concentration of microwax does not give 3.3 Color Aging Test impact to the colour uality. The colour aeing test with various microwax variations can e seen in iure 3. he white cotton value 104.23 is used as a standard to e compared with the samples. The graph indicates that the smaller value, the darker the faric fires, inversely, the lihter the fires lead to white 2 MATEC Web of Conferences 154, 01118 (2018) https://doi.org/10.1051/matecconf/201815401118 ICET4SD 2017 colour in which the standard score of white cotton is 104,23 or called as “blanko”. The up and down of the Color Different Test Result score was due to the differing time of cloth dyeing. 100 80 3.4 Color Different Test (R%) 60 Score 40 Colour different test with microwax variations can e seen in ale . he value of * ets down from 6.19 until 20 68.97 as the smaller the microwax amount.