Secret Lives of Male Models
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THE DRIES VAN NOTEN INSIDE AT HOME LAGERFELD, BROWNE, FORD, MAN SARTORI, VAN ASSCHE ON THE SUIT 2013 / SUMMER Secret Lives of Male Models PETE CAMPBELL! 2013 JAY!Z IS THE NEW SINATRA This is Alexander Skarsgård. He is the best- looking 6'4" Swede in the movies since Max von Sydow. If you want to see what he is made of—meet him on page 37. 0:&RYHULQGG 30 COM AR5004RT MOD. FRAMESOFLIFE. Luc WRITER Luc is a writer. His first novel has just been published. Discover moments of his life on framesoflife.com VinceCamuto.com rocca loafer, $159; the striker sport watch, $295 VinceCamuto.com rocca loafer, $159; the striker sport watch, $295 Page 8 : : summer 2013 !"#$%& XII '$%(&) * Contents for Su//er 2013 M+dern Suits: The F25t Pack: The Futur, L+oks Sharp ...............17 JT, Jay-Z, a1d Manh++d 2013? ........... 50 By Miles Socha By Frank DiGiacomo The Mu-t Li-t: The Secr8t Liv,s of Male M+dels: What .o Do, Who .o Be, This Su//er ... 24 Thr,e St0ds on .he Way Up ............ 54 By Mary Logan Bikoff By Erik Ma!a The Eq0,-trian Pri1ce of Paris: D,sert Wat9h ........................64 Pie2r, Guib3rt Lov,s les Chevaux ........28 By Kenji Toma By Alex Wynne Is Dri,s Van Noten Our Gr,at,-t The Old Man a1d .he Cu.ter: Men’s D,si61er? ...................... 66 Maria14 Riv,25 as Hemin6w5y Hero .....32 By Matthew Schneier By John Koblin P8te Campb3:l Isn’t So Bad: From Boyh++d .o Manh++d: The Mi1d of a Mad Men Scou1dr,l ......72 A Writer G+,s Ho/e .o New.own ....... 34 By Jim Windolf By Matthew Lynch A Bi:li4nair, K1+cks on .he Back D+or ... 76 xxx By Pola Debevoise In .he Ring Wi.h Alexa1der Skarsgård: So/eb7dy Up Ther, Lik,s Him .........37 By Matthew Brookes and Jim Windolf To subscribe or buy a single copy of M, visit classofman.com or call 800-289-0273. THE!COVER"!PHOTOGRAPHED!BY!MATTHEW!BROOKES"!STYLED!BY!ALEX!BADIA"!POLO!RALPH!LAUREN!LEATHER!JACKET!AND!ALTERNATIVE!APPAREL!COTTON!T#SHIRT 0:72&LQGG 30 ©2013 Cartier ©2013 BELISSIMO BELLAGIO MESMER EYES BELLAGIO OPTICAL WORLD LAS VEGAS, NV (702) 207-2041 LAS VEGAS, NV (702) 731-0300 AVENTURA, FL (305) 932-7373 MIAMI, FL (305) 662-7773 Page 10 : : summer 2013 TABLE OF CONTENTS “HE'S EVERY BAD THING YOU'VE EVER DONE ALL AT ONCE. HE'S HARD TO | 17 WATCH.” —Mad Men cr!a"or Ma""hew Wei#er ACHARD on P$te Campb%&l, ! “The cleanness of a black play!d by Vi#cent Kar"heiser silhouette is pleasing in a NOTEN: DELPHINE NOTEN: cluttered world.” Dior Homme wool suit, Thomas Pink | ! cotton shirt, Band of Outsiders tie. 72 — D I O R H O M M E ' S KRIS VAN ASSCHE "YOU"HAVE" TO"BE"THE" VAN TAKAY; MODELS: RDS; "IT!WAS!A!LITTLE! RECO SAME#"NO ! BIT!LIKE!AN! "MATTER" EXPERIMENT"! WHAT$" MUNRO/RCA BECOMING!A! $MARIANO! ! BELGIAN!FASHION! RIVERA"! BALLPLAYER#" DESIGNER#!STILL! STOIC VERY!ABSURD! IMAGES; TIMBERLAKE: TOM AND!QUITE! | ! SURREALISTIC#"! 32 !DRIES" LAHAM/GETTY VAN"NOTEN ! “The symbols of | 66 American manhood are behaving TRACHTENBERG; RIVERA: NICK like Teflon- ! coated teenagers: "Great face. Great walk. well-groomed, Great body. Masculine! eager to please, Athletic! GIANNONI; KARTHEISER: ROBERT Confident!" inscrutable.” ! —Calvin Klein Collection’s Italo Zucchelli | 50 ASSCHE: GIOVANNI on rookie male ! model Matt | VAN McGlone (right) 54 Louis Vuitton wool sweater, Kris Van Assche wool sweater, and Gucci cashmere sweater. 0:72&LQGG 30 Page 12 : : Summer 2013 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER PETER W. KAPLAN PAUL JOWDY ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER CREATIVE DIRECTOR PAMELA FIRESTONE NANCY BUTKUS ADVERTISING DIRECTOR JENNIFER MARDER FASHION DIRECTOR BRETT MITCHELL ALEX BADIA ADVERTISING MANAGER, M MAGAZINE EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INNERWEAR/LEGWEAR/TEXTILE JOEL L. 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WILDMAN ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR MARJORIE KEATING LUIS CAMPUZANO DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING JENNIFER PINCUS ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR FABIO SALLES LEXIE MORELAND COPY DIRECTOR JULIA DONAHUE DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR ALEXIS WARCHALOWSKI ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR ASSOCIATE MARKETING DIRECTOR BRIANNA LIPOVSKY JENNA GREENE SENIOR INTEGRATED MARKETING MANAGER JENNIFER BORCK CONTRIBUTING PHOTO RESEARCH EDITOR MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING MICHAEL FOUNTAS CARTER LOVE MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING JULIE JACOBY MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING ALISSA GROSS FASHION ASSISTANT ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING AMANDA MULLAHEY MERCEDES PSL BASS MARKETING COORDINATOR DANIELLE K. STEWART CONTRIBUTING WRITERS FOR THIS ISSUE PUBLIC RELATIONS ASSISTANT CHRISTINA MASTROIANNI POLA DEBEVOISE! FRANK DIGIACOMO! PRODUCTION JOHN KOBLIN! ERIK MAZA! MILES SOCHA VICE PRESIDENT, MANUFACTURING GENA KELLY CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS FOR THIS ISSUE GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR CHRIS WENGIEL MATTHEW BROOKES! STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE! PRODUCTION DIRECTOR KEVIN HURLEY TAKAY! KENJI TOMA! ROBERT TRACHTENBERG! ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER JILL BREINER ISA WIPFLI SENIOR B2B DISTRIBUTION MANAGER MICHAEL WAGNER FASHION INTERNS CONSUMER MARKETING LEAH HEFFERNAN! HYUNWOO KIM! SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR ELLEN DEALY MICHAEL ROBERTS PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR JOHN CROSS MARKETING DIRECTOR PEGGY PYLE EDITOR IN CHIEF, WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY MARKETING DIRECTOR ALISON EHRMANN EDWARD NARDOZA SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER SUZANNE BERARDI ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER ALISON CHRISTIE BUSINESS GROUP FINANCE DIRECTOR DEVON BEEMER BUSINESS MANAGER JANET JANOFF DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS RON WILSON PRESIDENT & CEO, GINA SANDERS EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, CRO WILL SCHENCK M is a registered trademark of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. Copyright © 2013 Fairchild Fashion Media. All rights reserved. Print- ed in the U!S!A! Volume XII, No. 2. M (issn 0746-5076) is published 4 times a year by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Ad- VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE & OPERATIONS SUZANNE REINHARDT vance Magazine Publishers Inc. Principal office: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief VICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL DAN SHAR Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration no. 123242885-rt0001. Send all editorial, business, and production correspondence to M, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER MELISSA*BRECHER Edit: 212-630-3500. Advertising: 212-630-4600. Single-copy sales: 800-289-0273. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact the YGS group at 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www. VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES NICOLE ZUSSMAN classofman.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the world wide web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. M is not responsible for the return or loss of, or for damage or any other injury to, unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited art work (includ- EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF ing, but not limited to, drawings, photographs, and transparencies), or any other unsolicited materials. Those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials for consideration should not send originals unless specifically requested to do so by M in BRAND DEVELOPMENT MICHAEL ATMORE writing. Manuscripts, photographs, and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. 0:0$67LQGG 30 Page 14 : : summer 2013 EDITOR'SLETTER M IS FOR MANHOOD By PETER W. KAPLAN IN THE SUMMER of F. Scott it is devoted to Manhood. But it is pointed Fitzgerald getting the hit 3-D mov- toward heroism. Manhood as an ideal adds ie that eluded him in life, it might be up to a kind of living twenty-first-century good to summon his old Paris buddy heroism. Being a man is a bumpy business Ernest Hemingway—who later on pretty with a certain amount of fun attached; much rolled him in A Moveable Feast. Nev- achieving manhood is another thing alto- ertheless there is nobody like Hemingway gether. It is rather hard. Every man in this and there never will be—and that does not issue of M is achieving a certain kind of ideal mean the Hemingway of caricature but the that adds up to Manhood. The easiest two to man who remade American writing—and point out are Dries Van Noten and Mariano he kicked things off for modern manhood Rivera—two men who have probably nev- when he wrote a letter to Fitzgerald in 1926 er been paired before. But Van Noten’s self- saying that “was not referring to guts but effacing brilliance and integrity as a designer something else. Grace under pressure.” It who has refused to sell out puts him squarely was later bastardized as “Courage is grace in the hero equation—at least two-thirds of under pressure.” Both are good. it. And as for Mariano Rivera—his general Twentieth-century men were very human goodness and his cutter make him a prone to manhood-defining adages. John baseball hero of the first order—a delayed F. Kennedy said the ancient Greeks had gift to Hemingway’s old fisherman who defined happiness as “the full use of your loved the great DiMaggio. powers along lines of excellence.” And we do The tall and rather beautiful Swedish not even have to bring up Vince Lombardi.