Taupo & the Central Plateau

TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU © LonelyPlanetPublications 288 float yourboat. the mountainsare dusted atTuroa withsnow:there’s fields. topskiing ski andWhakapapa touted Then asoneoftheworld’stopone-dayers. again,youcouldwaituntilwinter, when Circuit,oneofNZ’smostachievableGreat Walks,ortheTongariroAlpineCrossing, Northern River? Ormaybethisisyourchancetoskydive. Iframbling’syourthing,there’s alwaysTongariro Fallsgariro River, hooninguptoHuka inajetboat,orbouncingonbungyover theWaikato nature anddaredevil activities escapades. Perhaps youfancyfly-fishingintheworld-classTon- thatstretches toWhiteVolcanic Zone,alineofgeothermalsurfacings IslandviaRotorua. active, oftheTaupo withMtRuapehuoften havingahissyfit,thelastblastin2007.This isallpart shattered theislandandshookupworldmore than26,500yearsago. Andthearea isstill New Zealand’s largest Taupo, lake, avast, water-filled crater, thelegacyofavolcanicblastthat somethingfromanotherplanet.ThenTongariro, RuapehuandNgauruhoe,allsittinglike there’s ofTongariroNationalParkmiddle oftheplateau andtheheart are thethree massive peaksof willtellis whatthedictionary you),becausethisplacerocks. itain’tflat.Inthe Forastarter, Don’t thinkforaminute thatthisplateau issomeboringold elevated flatlandmass(which Plateau Central the & Taupo From mountainhightoplateau thisplaceisgonna low,andoutonthelusciouslake, But thedramadoesn’tstopthere, forthisarea back-to- nowrivalsRotoruaforspectacular

HIGHLIGHTS

TELEPHONE CODE: 07 Plunging 47mover River tothebaseof uptheWaikato Rocketing Rediscovering thestunning‘lostvalley’of Paddling Bagging amonster trouton onthe tillyourbumhurts Biking fresh powderat Carving from15,000ftat200km/h toearth Hurtling onthetopsover Trekking themagnificent Orakei Korako the modernMaoricarvings River or world’s skydivingcapital, strapped toacomplete strangerinthe Tongariro AlpineCrossing Traverse Whakapapa (p303) Lake Taupo ( p314)

( p302) Ski AreaSki Waikato RiverWaikato ( p294 ) tocheckout Turoa ( p311) Taupo (p309) Tongariro

Ski AreaSki www.laketauponz.com ( p292) 42 ( p292 ) ontheendofarubber band

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ Huka FallsHuka 42 Traverse Turoa SkiArea ( p300 ) onajetboat Whakapapa SkiArea Mt Ruapehu Tongariro AlpineCrossing ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Huka Falls www.visitruapehu.com Tongariro River Lake Taupo Taupo Orakei Korako Ὀ Ὀ there isasmallyear-round snowfield,whileJuly mum of around24°Cinsummer. Above 2500m ing fromaround3°Cinwinter uptoamaxi- generally coolclimate, withtemperatures rang- Plateau hasa Due toitsaltitude,theCentral Climate lonelyplanet.com rivals Rotorua astheNorth Island’sadrena- The increasingly excitingtown of Taupo now pop 21,040 TAUPO and independent travellers alike. of activitiesandfacilitiestocater forfamilies popular centre withvisitors andhasplenty action centring around Turangi. end (onoraround25April),withmuch of the Taupo annuallyon theAnzacDaylongweek- trout-fishing tournamentsare heldonLake the world’strout-fishing International capital. rounding waterways are tobe serene enough fascinating thermal areas. still volcanicallyactive and,like Rotorua,has activity, see p300 ). Thesurroundingarea is km) looklike apimple. (Formore onvolcanic of ashandpumice,makingKrakatoa(8cu 26,500 years ago,which thewout750cukm duringtheOruanuieruption,about a collapse 300,000 years ago. Thecalderawasformedby dera of avolcanowhich beganerupting about NZ’s largest lake, Taupo,Lake sitsinthecal- LAKE TAUPOREGION thesnowfields and serving in winter. operating aroundTongariroNationalPark, There are private shuttle-bus several services mostmajor routes. while Naked Busservices nect withmostmajor destinationsaroundNZ, Ohakune. FromTaupo, con- InterCity buses Wellington linestopsatNationalPark and trainonthe Auckland– Scenic Overlander Air.Island, runbyMountain TheTranz with anydestinationintheNorthandSouth are alsocharter linkingTongariro flights Taupo toAucklandandWellington.There hasregular from flights Air NewZealand Getting There&Around freezing temperatures canoccurat any time. stormsand on intospring.Onthemountains, and Turoa,insomeplacessnowcanlinger atWhakapapa to Octoberistheskiingseason Well positionedbythelake, Taupo isa Today the606-sq-kmlake anditssur- LAKETAUPO REGION••Taupo ered thelake andsleptbeside it,drapedinhis originates fromthestoryof Tia, whodiscov- (Resounding Footsteps). The modernname and causinghim todubitTapuaeharuru making himthink thegroundwashollow visited thisarea, hisfootsteps reverberated, When Maori chief Tamatea-arikinui first History for much oftraffic the season. high sible fortravellers, and packed withtransient middle of thetown,makingiteasilyacces- Auckland. of ing itsmaker onthewestcoastjustsouth theNorthIslandandmeet- ramble through before downforasedate settling Rapids, theHukaFallsway through andAratiatia the lake atthetownship,gate-crashing its est river, theWaikato,which flowsfrom Park. Taupo Lake istheoriginof NZ’slong- across tothepeaksof TongariroNational of thelake, enjoyingunrestricted views wonders. Itsitsonthenortheastern shores away. drive the lostworldof Orakei Korakei, anhour’s still more justalittlefurtherafield,such as morein thetownitself, onitsfringes, and blood pumping.There’s lotsof funtobe had jetboating andbungyjumpingtoget your withanabundanceofline capital, skydiving, State Hwy 1 (SH1) passes through the through Hwy1(SH1)passes State Taupo natural nestlesamongspectacular you’re camped in the right spot you’re campedintheright tural walks in Whirinaki Forest ( tural walksinWhirinaki p296 ) Ngauruhoe ( p309 ) starasMtDoom that isorangeandpointy( p318 ) Go green Carrot ( p318 ) Tackiest tourist attraction Festival Swim at Watch Listen to Read Drink Eat FACTS TAUPO &THECENTRALPLATEAU catch itfirst! as youbungyoverit( p292 ) story ofNZinexplosivedetail whichtellsthefascinatinggeological Hicks, Geoff Trout, preferably smoked. Butyou’llhaveto Trout,preferably smoked.

Awesome Forces, A mouthful of water from the Waikato River River AmouthfulofwaterfromtheWaikato The Ohakune’s CarrotFestival, Ohakune’s celebratingall Lake Taupo Lake –truly invigorating A kiwi callinginthenight,butonlyif Akiwi With Whirinaki Escapes,guidedecocul- WithWhirinaki Lord oftheRings byHamishCampbelland trilogy andsee Mt trilogy Ohakune’s Big Ohakune’s

289

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU (see theboxed(see text, p369 ) later that year. police remained untilthe defeat of Te Kooti a redoubt in1869,andagarrison of mounted ColonelJMRoberts built strategic base: military War (1868–72),whenitwasa Coast Land East (The Great Cloak of Tia). cloak, soitbecameknownasTaupo NuiaTia 290 (43km) To Wanganui Aramatai (88km) River Rd via Whanganui To Wanganui (125km) To Stratford Mokauiti Kaitieke Tuhua CENTRAL PLATEAU Mangaetoroa Raetihi Te Maire Te Kuiti 40 Hangatiki Europeans settled here Europeans settled inforceduringthe 43 ᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ Tohunga Waiteti Junction Aratoro 4 Mapiu Okahukura Mangatupoto AETUORGO • Tuo LAKE TAUPO REGION••Taupo (60km) To Hamilton Taumarunui 4

Makatote River Kopaki Ongarue

Whangaehu Kakatahi ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Mangamahu Ohakune Piriaka Horopito

River Benneydale Owhango Conservation Area Raurimu Tongariro Forest ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ National Park Ski Area Karioi Forest Park 30 Rangitoto Ranges Turoa Pureora Conservation Area 41 Otairi Mt Hauhungaroa Wairehu Barryville Forest Park Rangataua Canal 49 Moerangi Pureora 47 (1078m) Otamangakau Hauhungaroa Range (2797m) Mt Ruapehu Pureora (Kariori Lakes) Lake Rotokura Whakapapa Village Tangiwai Iwikau Village To Palmerston Lake National Park North (88km) Mt Pureora ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ Tongariro (1165m) Waipapa ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Junction Kuratau Titiraupenga 1 Waiouru Mangakino (1042m) Tokaanu 32 Mt Lake Desert Rd Kuratau

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Atiamuri 1 ᝲ ᝲ Rangitikei 30 Pukeokehu Airport peak holiday times, when New Zealanders peak holiday times,when NewZealanders the populationstill growsconsiderablyat from mostpoints intheNorthIsland.Today to alarge resort townthatcouldbedriven to from alakeside village of about 750people ownership of Taupo themotorcarsaw grow land fromMaori. Inthe20thcenturymass Orakei Korako Forest Park

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(20km) River tauponz.com; Tongariro St; tauponz.com; Tongariro Conservation (DOC) maps (DOC) Conservation and information. of hasafree townmapaswellDepartment activities; and foralllocalaccommodation,transport bookings Heu St)Forplaneandtrain tickets. transport. including St)Booksmostlocaltravellerservices Gascoigne Horomatangi St)Bookstrainandplane tickets. chures; also books tours. h traveller services andhas traveller services internet access. Booksmostlocal to7.30pmNov-Mar) 6.30pm Apr-Oct, St; lonelyplanet.com do in,on andaroundthem. Thefamousfa- beyondandallthethingsyoucan mountains Taupo’s mainattractionsare thebeautiful lake, Sights Taupo Centre Travel Taupo Smart Travel Taupo andcurrency exchangeattheKiwibank services outlet. Post office Log On House ofTravel Global Gossip TaupoExperience treats to sells British the homesick. Cybershed Association Automobile lakeshore. the and international visitors alike flockto 6000; 3Tamamutu St; 9920) Internet access. .experiencetaupo.com; 57 Tongariro St; .experiencetaupo.com; 57Tongariro Information h up closeandpersonalwiththestately mountainontheTongariroAlpineCrossing( p309 ). Museum ( below Bay( clifffacesatMine ) andcarved below Terraces), orvisitWairakei ( p302 ). Get Movement King (seeboxedas theleaderofWaikato-based text, p219 ). of TongarirotoNZin1887.The Tuwharetoa great-grandson ofTe HeuheuTukino (adescendentofNgatoro-i-rangi), whogifted themountains most sacred wasTongariro,seenastheleaderofallothermountains. explored thisregionoff theboatfromHawaiki, andnamedthemountainsthatremained. The see MtTaranaki’s sadtale, p254 ). oftheisland(forexample,of lustandbetrayal,endinginafew mountainsfleeingtootherparts Island’scentralregionThe North ishometoagroupofmountainsthatfeature in several legends MAORI NZ: CENTRAL PLATEAU NZ thathasretained anundisputed 8.30am-9pm) Has internet access and tourist bro- 8.30am-9pm) Hasinternetaccessandtourist To discover thestoriesoflocalMaoriandtheirancestors,visitmeetinghouse atTaupo The major Long after wasover, allthataction thechiefNgatoro-i-rangi (seetheboxed text, p307 ), fresh

9am-10pm) Offers IT services, internetaccessand ITservices, 9am-10pm) Offers i-SITE (Map (Map p292 ; (Map (Map p292 ; (cnrHoromatangi&RuapehuSts)Forpostal Mp p292; (Map (Map (Map p292 ; 11Tuwharetoa St; (Map (Map p292 ; iwi LAKETAUPO REGION••Taupo % (Map (Map p292 ; h (Map (Map p292 ; (tribe)oftheregion is (Map (Map p292 ; % 07-376 5901; 71 Tongariro St; 07-376 5901;71Tongariro 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri). % h (AA; Map (AA;Map p292 ; 07-377 4345; 115 Tongariro 07-377 4345;115Tongariro % 07-376 0027;www.lake 8.30am-5pm) Handles % 07-377 2700;17Heu % % 07-377 0704;www h 07-378 9028;28 07-378 9032;16 8.30am- % % ariki 07-378 07-376 (high chief). The current (highchief). Tuwharetoa ariki holdsasimilarlyrevered position inMaoridom Gallery Gallery perfect foradaytripon sunny days. rdcd price. reduced activitiesfora cial dealsthatcombine several Adrenaline addictsshould lookoutforspe- Activities which depictthesouthwindand a mermaid. twosmallerfigures design, of carved Celtic area over years athousand ago. Matahi also Tuwharetoa andTe Arawatribes totheTaupo visionary Maori navigator whoguidedthe late 1970s,anddepictNgatoro-i-rangi,the in the Matahi Whakataka-Brightwell carver Sports, p294 bymaster. Theywere carved Fishing&Cruising, see p293 , andWater carvings scene. lizard features over 1000native plantsandasteamy FlowerShow. It’squiteChelsea small,but gold medal–winningNZentryintothe2004 ofWellbeing Ora Garden Arecent additionisthe elaborate carvings. house, piece of thecollectionisaMaori meeting lar visitingartexhibitions,too. Thecentre- shop, andamoaskeleton. There are regu- ing industries,amock-upof a19th-century on thelocalforestry, nauticalandtrout-fish- has localhistoricaldisplaysincludingthose .co.nz; StoryPl;adult/child$5/free; Acacia Bay to Roturua. Tothewest,serene beaches of thermal regions, lienorthof townontheroad vourites, such however, asHukaFalls andthe

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CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU Skydive TaupoSkydive Freefall town pick-ups,video, photos and T-shirts. NZ. Alloffer similarpackages thatcaninclude the airportandoffer someof thebestrates in Three operators sitalongsideeach other at peaks –theysuddenlylooksomuch smaller! lake and thebrilliantwhite of thesnowcapped of whichour, thehighlights are blue thedeep together inabrilliantblanket of naturalcol- are fromgroundlevel patchworkedyou see beautifulplaces terrific spot todoit.Allthose of a skydiving capital theworld.It’scertainly jumps ayearfromTaupo, which makes itthe At lastcountthere were more than 30,000 SKYDIVING 292 .co.nz; from $220) Bay (3.4km) To Acacia CENTRAL TAUPO AETUORGO • ap LAKE TAUPO REGION•• Taupo

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S t ing.co.nz; St;gearhire from$10; 147Tongariro 5.30pm Mon-Fri, to4.30pmSat&Sun) 5.30pm Mon-Fri, lonelyplanet.com 5337; www.tauporodandtackle.co.nz; St; gear 7Tongariro Sun) p292; (Map Fishing and licencesforindependenttripsat maybe red herrings?). larly updated localguidetothebestspots(or on yourown,visitwww.taupo.com, aregu- and hopefullyafish. Tohelpyoutake apunt of localknowledge andindividual attention, are reasonable, given thatyou’re getting years will includeequipmentandlicence).Rates isareasonable ballpark,and for ahalf-day negotiate pricedependingonthetrip($250 Taupo andTurangi(see p303 ), mosthappyto Station. Power flowing intothelake fromtheTokaanu out ing isallowedontheWaikatoRiver (flowing 300m radiusof theriver mouths. Spinfish- all rivers flowingintothelake, andwithina Fly- fishing istheonly youcandoon region isjustifiably worldfamousfortrout. Anglers are this place,because intheright FISHING &CRUISING leap off together. the river, orstrapyourself toafriendand dunkin boat. Youcanalsooptforaslight 27 Gascoigne St;gearhire from$15; 27 Gascoigne ArtGallery...... House ofTravel...... Global Gossip...... (see45) Experience Taupo...... Cybershed...... Automobile Association...... Taupo Museum& Pointons SkiShop...... Marina...... (see 13) Life Cycles...... Launch Office...... Hunting &Fishing...... Greenstone Fishing...... Cruise Cat...... (see13) Chris JollyOutdoors...... Canoe &Kayak...... Travel SmartTaupo...... Taupo i-SITE...... Taupo TravelCentre...... (see50) Post Office...... Log On...... Kiwibank...... (see 6) SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION There are numerousfishing guidesaround You canarrange guidedtrips,or get gear of thelake) andontheTokaanutailrace, and

Mp p292; (Map Taupo Rod&Tackle % 07-378 4449;www.huntingandfishing.co.nz; LAKETAUPO REGION••Taupo % 07-378 3714;www.greenstonefish 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Mp p292; (Map B2 A4 A4 A3 A3 A4 B2 A2 B2 B2 A2 C2 B3 A3 B3 A3 , h Hunting &Fishing 8am-5.30pm Mon- Dunrovin...... Bella Visa...... Beechtree...... Taupo's Floatplane...... Taupo Rod&Tackle...... JapaneseRestaurant...... Fine Fettle...... Classic EspressoBakery...... Brantry...... Bodyfuel...... Beaut Bakery...... Tiki Lodge...... Taupo UrbanRetreat...... Suncourt MotorHotel...... BackpackersRetreat...... Lynwood Lodge...... Lake...... Go Global...... Hot PlateKorean& C2 YHA Taupo...... Rainbow Lodge EATING SLEEPING h % Greenstone Greenstone 8.30am- 07-378

17m Sun) 1-7pm climbing wall vate There’s mineralpoolsandsauna. alsoa pool withawaterslide, indoor kids’pool,pri- about 2kmeastof town,hasabig,heated $3/3; venues.co.nz; ACBathsAve; adult/child$6.50/2.50,sauna/slide The SWIMMING &BATHING individuals or groups. books formore than20boats,catering to 3pm dailyApr-Nov) .fishcruisetaupo.co.nz; Taupo Map (Lake Office; Charter p292 ; the ing orcruising–isthrough worthwhile. especially ern launch. Sundaybrunch trips($53)are (Map p292 $35; ; tickets with alittlemore zip,take the 1½and2½hours.between Forsomething alongthewayandtaketake inothersights ( ings atMineBay p291 boattrips ). Standard theMaoriMost willtake youtothesee carv- offering bothlake fishingtripsandcruises. i-SITE andlaunch office ( below ). available viatheoperators listed earlier,the andarecost $15.50/34/81perday/week/year as there are heftyfinesforviolations.Licences ing. Make sure youalwayscarryitwithyou, A licenceisrequired forlake andriver fish- hire $20-45; The bestplacetobooktrips–whetherfish- There are plentyof boat-charter operators h AC Baths AC 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 6am-9pm) . h C3 B2 B3 C3 A4 D1 C3 B3 C3 C2 C3 D4 A4 C3 C3 C3 A2 A4

(adult/child $10/6; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat,9.30am-5pmSun) Mp p301; (Map , located atthemarina,which Top Cabs...... Taupo TravelCentre...... Starlight Cinema Great LakeCentre...... (see7) Shed...... Mulligans...... Jolly GoodFellows...... Groove...... Finn MacCuhal's...... (see22) Bond...... Yama...... Woolworths...... Replete...... Plateau...... Pak NSave...... On Tap...... Lotus Thai...... TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING iets...... A3 Pimentos...... Centre...... at theTaupo Events Centre, h h 9am-5pm daily Dec-Mar, 9.30am- 9am-5pm dailyDec-Mar, 10.30am) % 07-376 0350;www.taupo h % , alarge, mod- 3.30-9pm Mon-Fri, 3.30-9pm Mon-Fri, 07-378 3444; www launch office Cruise Cat 51 50 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 49 293 A4 B3 A4 A4 C3 A4 A4 B4 B2 B4 B3 B2 B4 B2 B3

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU child $10/4,massageperhr$89,bodyscrubs$85; Taupo-Napierwww.taupohotsprings.com; Hwy(SH5);adult/ 294 tours andbooksother local activities. boats ($60to$70perhour).Italsoorganiseshelicopter hire (single/doubleperhour$15/20)andself-drive kayak including ofwater sports, outallsorts cansort marina; www.chrisjolly.co.nz; Rapid Sensations/Kayaking Kiwi Kiwi Sensations/Kayaking Rapid Purefun Safaris River Kiwi JollyOutdoors Chris &Kayak Canoe get your boat afloat. tuition, sothere’s absolutely notto noexcuse gentle river Localsoffer sections. rentals and are rafttripsonbothwhite-water rapidsand is popularonthelake andrivers, andthere to get wetandwildaroundTaupo. Kayaking not faraway),there’s plentyof opportunity andWairoaRivers (plus thewildRangitaiki Waikato andTongariroRivers ateitherend With thebiglake inthemiddleand WATER SPORTS picnicand pleasant barbecue facilities. There’s ahealth-food caféonsite aswell treatments such asmassage andbodyscrubs. ones. Adultscanenjoyawidechoice of body and agiantdragonwaterslide fortheyoung and outdoorthermalpools,freshwater pools 9.30pm) surrounds. natural a bridge where youcantake adipforfree, in right andwell-wornspotunder ), apleasant find theHukaFalls Walkwayhotsprings(see and a shorter trip (2½hours, $75)alonga trip and ashorter calmer section. (fivehours,$115) River ontheTongariro trips water rafting (twohours,$45).Italsorunswhite- River scenic Waikato (4½hours,$95)and agentlepaddlealongthe carvings totheMaori trips kayak Runslake noonApr-Sep) Oct-Mar, .com; 413 Huka Falls.com; 413Huka Rd; % ($125). river ($90)andafull-daywhite-water carvings Maori trip toseethe ($45),ahalf-daytrip River ontheWaikato trip atwo-hour edge inhighsummer),aswellguidedtrips: andboathire (fromthelake’s instruction 5.30pm) Offers cnrTaniwha.canoeandkayak.co.nz; &SpaRds; down the Waikato River River down theWaikato (adult/child $40/25). free pick-up fromTaupo tours andlunch.Italsorunskayak ($99),including Rivers ($99), Wairoa($109)andTongariro ontheRangitaiki trips rafting white-water two-hour Offers h Twenty minutes’ walkfromtownyou’ll Taupo Spa HotSprings 0800 353435;www.rapids.co.nz, www.kayakingkiwi summer only) Runs lake parasailing summer only)Runslake ($89). AETUORGO • Tuo LAKE TAUPO REGION••Taupo hasavarietyof mineral-rich indoor ( % 0800 867272;www.purefun.co.nz; (Map (Map p292 ; ( h % Mp p292; (Map h 9am-5.30pm) Locatedatthe 0800 7238577;www.krs.co.nz) departs 8am&1.30pm departs %

Mp p301; (Map 0800 529256;www % Mp p301; (Map 07-378 5596; % 07-377 6502; h h 9am- 7am- Heli-Biking around $25perday.Forluxuryroughriding, the linesof nachos and BLTs. up empoweringbreakfasts, andlunch along located inthemidstof theaction.Hubserves ($85). Italsooffers freedom rental (per day $60). (half-day$85),andasunsetpaddleonthelake ings trip half-day tomultipledays,includingthepopularrock-carv- froma www.wildernessescapes.co.nz) trips Runsvarious www.biketaupo.org.nz. fromYou candownloadmapsforthese Forest, WaikatoRiver andPureora Forest. systems just outof town,namelyWairakei gested cyclingand mountain-biking routes. Cycling AroundLakeTaupo, bikers. free Thei-SITEproducesauseful leaflet, regularly attracting more than3000mountain hour last SaturdayinNovember, andOctober’s 12- Cycle Challenge the160km annual cyclingevents: Taupo isalsothelocationof twoof NZ’sbiggest are bluebike town. Lake racksthroughout Heu Heu St,andshared paths elsewhere. There with dedicated Tceand cycle lanesalongLake TaupoExploring isfunandeasy, ontwowheels CYCLING &MOUNTAIN BIKING Wilderness EscapesKayaking Sailing Centre and Hikes leaflet DOC’s gnarly all-dayers. is Agoodplacetostart Taupo, amblestomore rangingfromsedate There are somegreat walksinandaround WALKING down. way the Kaimanawas, fromwhere youbike allthe and dropyouontopof pointin thehighest .co.nz; $345) 4hrride St; and ( p296) lunch) Falls8409; 415Huka Rd;meals$6.50-17.50; Wairakei Forest. Nextdooris full day$45/55) Falls.rapids.co.nz; hire half-/ 413Huka $75,bike Rd;guidedtrips ($60) insummer. are Rates per hour. ($35),catamarans($50)andsailboats ($35), windsurfers BaysouthofTaupo;Mile ($25),canoes hires outkayaks .sailingcentre.co.nz; Tce; Lake h Rainbow Lodge BackpackersRainbow Retreat There are goodmountain-bike several track Rapid Sensations Sensations Rapid a popularhang-outforcyclists,handily 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to1pmSat) 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, Day-Night Thriller

( ($2.50). % runs guidedthree-hour ridesinthe Life Cycles (Map (Map p301 ; (www.cyclechallenge.org.nz)

Lake Taupo –AGuide toWalks 07-384 2816;www.kaimanawahelibiking willpickyouupinahelicopter Mp p301; (Map

(www.eventpromotions.co.nz) % ( h % 0274-967 350;www 8.30am-8.30pm) AtTwo 07-378 6117;16Oruanui ( % % which hassug- lonelyplanet.com Hub Café Café Hub 0800 353435;www 07-378 3413; rent bikes for , held on the , heldonthe h Lake TaupoLake ( % breakfast & 07-374 , SH1, Wairakei; 9holes SH1, Wairakei; adult/child $12/$5.50). tre of Taupo. Toreach thewalkwayfromtown, are aboutaoneto1½-hourwalkfromthecen- river, crossing ahotstream enroute. Thefalls of theWaikatoRiver. Thetrackfollowsthe walk fromTaupo tothefallsalongeastbank lonelyplanet.com Resort Resort surroundings 1km uptheroadat insimilarlyverdanta nine-holecourse set wantinga morethose leisurely hit, there is within thetop100courses worldwide. For in450acresset of beautifulcountryside,rated 18holes$95-200) SH1, Wairakei; p301; (Map kilometres northof Taupo is course andtheotheraninlandlinks. Eight 60) .taupogolf.co.nz; 32CentennialDr;9holes$20-35,18$35- Taupo Golf Club GOLF p309). to walktheTongariroAlpineCrossing(see get backtoSH1,the lakeside road. (8km). Anywhere alonghere youcaneasily (4.2km southof Taupo) toFive MileBay the LionsWalk,goingfromTwoMileBay thewalkwayconnectswithTwo MileBay water At beach onthe waytoTwoMileBay. Heading southfromTaupo, there’s ahot- flat, easywalkalongpublic-accessbeaches. to thetop, walking slowly. side. Itwilltakeright-hand abouttwohours ofThe start thetrackissignposted onthe Rd. 6km alongSH5,turnleftintoMountain off, 2kmsouthof Taupo towncentre. About top. Take theTaupo–Napier Hwy(SH5)turn- p301 ), which hasmagnificentviewsfromthe and cross the bridge. walk thispart,drive outtothefallscarpark acrosstheriver.the powerstation Tojust are goodviewsof theriver, HukaFalls and 7km away(anothertwo-plushours). There Track Walking to AratiatiaRapids hill anddowntothehotspringsby the river. heads off totheleftof theendcarpark,upover a Spa ThermalPark tillthestreet’s end.Thepath Turn leftatCountyAve andcontinuethrough head upSpaRd,passingtheTaupo Bungysite. the Taupo lakefront toFive It’sa MileBay. hastwogood18-holecourses, oneapark The Another walk goes to Another walkgoes Taupo fromwhich asabase canalsoserve The pleasant onfromthefallsis Carrying Mp p301; (Map Huka Falls Walkway Huka % 07-374 8152; www.wairakei golfcourse.co.nz;07-374 8152;www.wairakei

% LAKETAUPO REGION••Taupo (Map p301 ; p301 (Map Great Lake Walkway Lake Great 0800 378 678; www.wairakei.co.nz; 0800 378678;www.wairakei.co.nz; , achallenging course is an enjoyable, easy isanenjoyable,easy % Mt Tauhara Wairakei 07-378 6933;www . Therapidsare goes from goes Huka Falls Huka

Wairakei Wairakei Golf Course (Map

Mo (p302). Moon est withgoodviewsover theCraters of the Porsche GT3 orGTOMonaro,anddriving ina fast rideswithaprointhedriver’s seat Car.V8 orFormulaChallenge Race Super- staged theA1GP. There’s often something to drag circuitwasrecently upgradedandhas St; snowboard hire $40, skis $40; St; snowboardhire $40, skis Tongariro and Tongariro Mt Ruapehu. Falls, Taupo,15 minutestoonehour, acrossHuka Lake taupo.co.nz; flights $70-230)Scenicflightsrangingfrom Air Charter Taupo Air Charter unless specified. The following are located atTaupo airport AERIAL SIGHTSEEING Tours permitting) at Park.Centennial $100) Club fully guided trips. off-road the turn-offtoOrakei Korako,which offers $79-189) 1-3hr trips Adventures or Motorsport tuition canbeorganised through ( can get outonthetrackwith on occasionthepolicetesting theirskills.You watch here, fromsidecarracesto‘drifters’ and Rd). p301; should headtothe Thrill-seekers withpetrol-head tendencies OTHER ACTIVITIES Oct-Mar). 9am-5pm Shop Ski andalsoat and upthemountain, hours toTuroa. There’s gear hire allaround being 1¼hours drive toWhakapapa,andtwo Taupo totheskifields, close istantalisingly SKIING $45/80) Rd;1/2hrrides 0356; www.taupohorsetreks.co.nz; Karapiti while treks over pasture, pineforest andriverbeds, $40-70) [email protected]; 73PoihipiRd;1-2hrrides Moehiwa HorseVentures HORSE TREKKING 595) % Safari onquadbike with For amore peacefulactivity, Track Drive This state-of-the-art 3.5kmracetrackand This state-of-the-art , which offers packages where youdrive a 0800 324685;www.fcr.co.nz; 1-3sessionsoflaps$290-

Mp p301; (Map glidesdailybyappointment(weather % conductstreks somefinefor- through Taupo HorseTreks 07-376 5033; www.tauporacetrack.co.nz; Broadlands 07-376 5033;www.tauporacetrack.co.nz;

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% ( % 021 962976;www.lestermotorsport.co.nz) , 24kmnorthof townopposite 07-377 6404;www.4x4quads.com; SH1; ( 07-378 5627;CentennialDr;flightsfrom % 027 288 9037; [email protected]). Taupo Motorsport ParkTaupo Motorsport % 07-378 5467;www.aircharter

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295

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU Tarawera and White Island. NationalPark,over thegeothermalareas, Tongariro Mt www.aeroplaneadventures.co.nz; flights$95-450)Flights Taupo, mealsandcampingnecessities are included. from $155-745).Transport trips tothree-day Park (one- Forest cational ecoculturalguidedwalksintheWhirinaki Runsfascinatingandedu- www.whirinakirainforest.com) the Huka Falls Starcombo the Huka intheHuka Jet from $189. with CombineaHelistartrip Estateacrossthelake. Omori youto hours, includingthewineandcheesetourtaking ofscenichelicopterflights,from20minutestotwo variety oftown,Helistaroffers a Located about3kmnortheast www.helistar.co.nz; Falls 415Huka Rd;flights$99-599) andvolcanoes(minimum town, lake 10 minutes). scenicflightsover the visits andgolf,aswellshorter include groundexcursionssuchasflyfishing,vineyard .helinz.com; flights$99-995)Specialisesinheli-tourswhich cnrl options. central competitive backpacker scenethatincludes lots of Tce,anda itlining thebusyLake Taupo hasawiderange of accommodation, Sleeping Wilderness Escapes Experiences Rainforest Whirinaki from the i-SITE. neartheSuperloo,notfar from 10amto4pm,departing only,half-hourly bus. Toursrunholidayperiods decker tours ofTaupo double- inarefurbished 1950s British tours adult/child$5/2.50)Runs15-minutesightseeing Taupo Tours Paradise Tours OTHER TOURS Adventures Volcanic Aeroplane Taupo’s Floatplane Taupo AirServices Helistar Helicopters &Jolly Clarke 296 minute local look to a nearly two-hour trip to trip minute locallooktoanearlytwo-hour White Island. .co.nz; flights$85-450)Runsscenicfromthe15- Krk; $345). Korako; andawalkthroughOrakei followedbyajetboattrip trip, full dayout,itoffers theTaupo Combo(floatplane Trifecta over MtRuapehuandasfarafieldWhiteIsland.Fora andlongerones includingquickflightsoverthelake trips, of thefloatplanedoesavariety the entrancetomarina, www.tauposfloatplane.co.nz; flights$70-540)Locatedat Rotorua, Hawkes Bayand Rotorua, Hawkes Waitomo Caves. NationalPark,offers Korako, tourstoTongariro Orakei Falls. CratersoftheMoonandHuka Also Aratiatia Rapids, tourstothe .co.nz; tours adult/child$99/40)Three-hour rock climbingandabseiling(from$80), caving ($210). (from$85), kayaking $85) andotheroutdooractivities, essescapes.co.nz) ofwalks(from Organisesawidevariety AETUORGO • Tuo LAKE TAUPO REGION••Taupo ( % Mp p292; (Map ( % 07-377 0774;www.taupotours.com; ( (Map (Map p292 ; ( % 07-378 9955;www.paradisetours (Map (Map p301 ; % 07-378 5325;taupoair@xtra 07-378 3413;www.wildern % 07-377 8805;www % % ( % 07-378 7500; 0800 435478; ( % 0800 237675; 07-377 2363; clean roomsincludingensuite doubles.The Ross,offeringciable hostel runbytheaffable www.tikilodge.co.nz; 104Tuwharetoawww.tikilodge.co.nz; St;dmfrom$26, te beach. the it’s abusyroadonyourdoorstep instead of feel,design, withabeach-house although carefree style. It’srefreshingly modernin by ayounger inwithits crowdwhofitright pose-built hostel withapub-like hub,enjoyed www.tur.co.nz; 65Heu HeuSt;dm$22-26,d$65) roof terrace forbarbecuesor hanging out. counts: clean,secure, andalsosportingagreat basic facilities,butonthebuttonwhere it of town.Thisisalaid-back backpackers with if youwanttobesmackbanginthemiddle 25, s$53,d$53-58) &Tuwharetoa cnrTongariro Sts;dm$22- www.go-global.co.nz; road, sowatch this space. the promisingBurke’s Backpackers downthe cash-strapped. Ross intends toshortly revamp jobsforthe canhelpfindhospitality plus staff ers andstraighteners (!)insomebathrooms, bike hire, andfishing-tackle aswellhairdry- hostel guestscanshare. include Otherbonuses that gle). Thecottage’s lounge hasalarge TV themed décorintherooms(egretro andjun- andhomelywith cottage nextdoorissecluded St; dmfrom$21,d&tw$56-62; % Retreat LodgeBackpackers Rainbow BUDGET well-established treeswell-established andhedgerows between holiday parkfive minutes’ walktotown,with $30-40, cabinsfrom$55, unitsfrom$85; www.taupoallseasons.co.nz; St;sites2people 16 Rangatira hire. guitar a littlelimited, buttheymake upforitwith extensive DVDlibrary.Thekitchen spaceis trap deckwithbarbecues,barrel spapooland communal areas andaninternet lounge, sun- $26, dfrom$76; &Tamamutuyha.co.nz; cnrKaimanawa Sts;sites$30,dm evenings. cultural cluding artworkonthewallsandoccasional spa pooloutback.Lotsof Maori flavour in- spacious kitchen andcomfylounges, with lake viewsfromthebalcony, andmountain athome. Thisnewishhostelright hasgreat by localMaori hostswhowantyoutofeel d &twfrom$75; All Seasons HolidayPark All Seasons YHA Taupo o Taupo UrbanRetreat Go Global 07-378 5754;www.rainbowlodge.co.nz; 99Titiraupenga Tiki Lodge Tiki

Mp p292; (Map (Map (Map p292 ; pi pi Oneof thebest-located hostels Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ) Agoodhostel withcosy ) % Mp p292; (Map Agenuine articlerun

% Mp p292; (Map Mp p301 ; (Map 0800 464562,07-3770044; i 07-378 3311;yha.taupo@ ) Asolidandso- p % % % A pleasant Apleasant ) 07-377 4545;

07-378 6124; 0800 777272; Mp p292; (Map Apur- 332 121;www.taupotop10.co.nz; 28CentennialDr;sites$36- park thanaflashy resort, in thisparkisset pis Tce;d/f$90/160;238; www.chelmswood.co.nz; 250Lake Rifle Range Rd;s/dfrom$75/90; Range Rifle from downtownTaupo, thisisagreat op- cabins from$65,units$98; 5159; www.greatlake.co.nz; 406AcaciaBayRd;sites$32, and good kitchen facilities. sites. Playground,gamesroom,thermalpool lonelyplanet.com their own courtyardmineral pool.There’s a studios andlarger familyrooms,mostwith manor onthesouth sideof townhassimple pool. clean dodgy playgroundbutlovely Slightly tality. and homely,areal sliceof Kiwihospi- ny’s inresidence. It’sallshipshape though, andmadeuplikea smallhouse yourgran- pebble dashandconcrete, roomsasbig first motel, builtin1952.Sowhatyouget is about. often are surroundedbypretty gardenswithtui to theperiod(originallybuilt1962),and lick of paint.Functionalunitsremain true A chirpy old bird,recently given afresh taupo.co.nz; 140HeuSt;s/dfrom$75/80; Dunrovin MIDRANGE shop. It’sabout2.5kmfrom the i-SITE. swimming pool,tennis courtsandanonsite park hasallthemodconsincludingheated slickest of thelocalcampgrounds,this20-acre 44, cabinsfrom$70,units$120; home (see p294 ). indulgent Taupo HotSpringswhich shares its worth thehopforitspeacefullocationand five-minute drive fromdowntown,butiswell such asaplaygroundandtrampoline. It’sa units, andhasplentyof kid-friendly features accommodation, fromtent sites tomotel-style well-tended groundsandoffers arange of $80/110; 8559; www.taupodebretts.com; SH5;sitesfrom$32,d/ste basic but cheerful. Motel-styletheless unitsare wellmaintained. pricklygrass,thefacilitiesareslightly never- campground. Abitdustyinthesummerwith hubbub andare lookingforaclassicKiwi whoaretion forthose happyawayfromthe Chelmswood Motel Lynwood Lodge Taupo Spa Resort DeBretts Taupo Top 10 Holiday Resort Taupo Top10HolidayResort HolidayPark Lake Great pi Mp p292; (Map ) Thisunpretentious Tudor-style ) More of anupmarket holiday LAKETAUPO REGION••Taupo

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) One of Taupo’s oldestmotels, thisplacehas creating afeeling of andair,asdothe light décor isfresh andmoderninneutraltones, offers classy rooms atareasonable rate. The of thenewestmotels intown,theBeechtree 268; www.suncourt.co.nz; 14 Northcroft St;d/f$100/145; 14Northcroft 268; www.suncourt.co.nz; .wairakei.co.nz; Wairakei Park; Wairakei .wairakei.co.nz; d/stefrom$155/225; pis Resort Wairakei TOP END TVs. flat-screen amenities are allgoodquality,including patios andupstairs balconies. Fittingsand ceilings,largehigh windows,ground-floor Rd;dfrom$140; Range motel.co.nz; 56Rifle alternatives for larger groups. withthefourotherroomsabetteris tight, couches and sultrylava lamps.Thestudio of, curvaceous with1960sstylingstarring Austin Powersthat even wouldbeproud anaudaciousretropad pullsoff manoeuvre .co.nz; Rd;d$120-195; 63Mere to dojusthangingaround the motel. area, spaandswimmingpool,there’s plenty lakeside location.Combinedwithabilliard courtyardsandthe pleasant big-screen TVs, particularly whenyoutake accountof the slicklyrefurbishedbeen ensuringgoodvalue, www.oasistaupo.co.nz; Tce;dfrom$110; 241Lake can bookthe place out. regularideal forfamilies,though conferences rooms withverandas andfullkitchens are ing spapoolandkids’playground.Larger facilitiesinclud- unitswithuseful comfortable arangeThis ramblingcomplexencloses of oured Suncourt,sittingalongthelakefront. pis for asundownerof an evening. are welllocated awayfromtheroad–good Thegrassy area andbarbecue conservative. are wellappointed ifalittle andcomfortable, owners Aaron andTracey.It’snew,sorooms bywayof grass, andoffering personal service being immaculate downtothelastbladeof tels nationwide,thisonekeeps thebarraised mo- of Vista thegrowingnumberof Bella vistamotels.co.nz; 143HeuSt;d/f$98/180; for the littlies. andasandpit heated outdoor pool,sauna, Beechtree Beechtree Taupo Oasis Resort MotorHotel Suncourt Bella Vista Lake

Mp p292; (Map ) ) Roaming over 169acres, thisisa You can’t miss the brightly col- You can’tmiss thebrightly Mp p292; (Map Mp p292; (Map Mp p301; (Map %

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CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU walls adornedwithNZartworkandasnazzy town’s bestspots.It’saplush one,withthe balcony rooms,thishotel sitsinoneof the onthelakefrontRight withsuperviewsfrom % best hotels inNZ,HukaLodge basksinac- ad sushi. and with Japanese specialities includingtempura thentic barbecue-style Korean dishes,along 25; &JapaneseRestaurant Korean Hot Plate RESTAURANTS to dining,especiallyinthecafé division. Taupo punches above whenitcomes its weight Eating andgood contained for families. cottage sitsapartonthegrounds,entirely self- five-course dinnerandbreakfast. Theowners’ riverside include withviewsandprivacy.Rates Individual guestlodges are dotted alongthe shared dining andlounge areas, andalibrary. the homeof awealthyaesthete) and features dens, themainlodge hasahomelyfeel (albeit gar-Surrounded bylush bushanddelightful who mayhave Mum. includedtheQueen colades andaprocessionof famousguests pis Fallslodge.com; Huka Rd;s/d/cottagefrom$1045/1370/2780; restaurants. in-house a businesscentre, wi-fi hotspots,andtwo well equippedforbusinesstravellers, with outdoor poolarea. Millenniumisparticularly .manuels.co.nz; Tce;d&tw$190-360; 243Lake the gardens and bush. share awrap-aroundbalconywithviewsover themselves are sympatheticallydecorated and painting dotted about, whilethe20rooms with historicphotographs andtheoddfamous of itsheritage, comfort. Itboastsdeservedly tive of state old-worldcharm modern meets lovingly1889er hasbeen restored toanattrac- raceshotel.co.nz; SH5;dfrom$185; for anyoneof the indulgent persuasion. lers, theresort manages toretain broadappeal Popular forconferences andbusinesstravel- executive, allare although executive instyle. golf course. Roomsrange to fromstandard and restaurant, itsownnine-hole buteven swimming andhotpools,gymnasium,bar true resort, boastingnotonlytennis courts, 298 07-377 3344; cnr Roberts &Titiraupenga07-377 3344;cnrRoberts Sts;mains$15- Millennium Huka Lodge Huka Terraces Hotel h AETUORGO • Tuo LAKE TAUPO REGION••Taupo lunch &dinnerTue-Sun) ) Welcome to paradise. Oneof Welcometoparadise. the

Mp p301 ; (Map Mp p301; (Map Mp p301; (Map % % Thisplacehasau- % pi 07-378 5791; www.huka 07-378 5791;www.huka 0800 808228;www 07-378 7080;www.ter Thisdearold ) psi Mp p292; (Map

) ing numberof brewery-branded gastropubs, .co.nz; 45 Rifle Range Rd;mains$26-35; Range .co.nz; 45Rifle with itsearthyfit-outandatrendy Pacifica of which Plateau isanexemplar indeed, St; mains$25-35; wooden barandsmokers’ den out front. Modern-maninteriorthroughout. withbeaut bonanza toroundoffandabeer cheese steakswith patétostart, asbigyourfist, mains $24-34; dishesincludinggood tasty veggie options. its relatively shortmenuoffers other sufficient is thelegendary lambshanks andmash,but vivial environment.Oneof its claimstofame enjoy someof thetown’sbest foodinthiscon- favourite tobook thatyoumaywellneed St; mains$21-25; fare in plentiful portions. offering Thai trimmings throughout, standard warm andinvitingrestaurant withSiamese St; mains$16-20; of piquancyinanocean of jus. bitoverwee thetop,butstillawelcomepocket and noodlesallways.Flavoured allover anda tobento-box andsalads sandwiches lunches fromgourmet everything West eatery serving $15-37; organic, andGE- gluten-free options. The wholefoods, a quieter edge of town serving light meals$2-11; Fine Fettle CAFÉS menu($35or$45)is set a gift. cluding top-qualitycutsof andlamb.The beef meals of someof NZ’s finestingredients, in- in summer. Themenu makes formemorable the perfectly pitched canopy,orupper garden mate, unobtrusive surroundsinside,or outin minutes from thetowncentre. Dineininti- in theregion afew atthis1950stownhouse, run thebestandmostconsistent restaurant andsister FelicityPrue Campbell continueto other international offerings. and eyes onthehorizonwithcurrynights rump andrib-eye),Plateau clearlykeeps its key. Predominantly modernNZ(thinklamb (live musicThursday), butthefoodis twist. It’sagreat placeforadrinkortwo Plateau Pimentos Yama On Tap Lotus Thai Brantry h

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Mp p292; (Map Mp p292; (Map h h dinner) h h % breakfast &lunch) lunch &dinner) lunch Wed-Fri, dinnerWed-Mon) lunch Wed-Fri, dinner Wed-Mon) %

Thisplacepacksapaunch % % % 07-376 5759;43RuapehuSt;mains % % 07-378 0830;42Tuwharetoa St; 07-378 7674;39Paora HapeSt; 07-378 0484;www.thebrantry 07-377-2425; 64Tuwharetoa 07-377 4549;17Tamamutu 07-376 9497; 137 Tongariro 07-376 9497;137Tongariro Oneof agrow- Atrendy East– lonelyplanet.com Anairycaféon h Such alocal dinner) Chef A with a fantastically artfulcaféinanebullient with afantastically 10-minute drive fromtownwillreward you for the bacon and egg for thebaconandegg pie. Unsurpassable. most sophisticated bar,with astylishinterior, thisisTaupo’ssistible (abitlike 007 himself), is abudget diner’screamy dream, baking 15 Tamamutu St;lightmeals$3-11; and iced chai. pies andfresh plusjuices,smoothies salads, offeringshealthy andsatisfying includebig lonelyplanet.com but you may still see aQat but youmay stillsee the bar. drinks maycostyou apretty Money-Penny andDJsup late.European beers, tapas The $4-25; to read over your pint. of paytotake anewspaper theyear,itmight when thetownfillsupwithtravellers. Therest Things get lively of intheheight summer Drinking Bakery Pie-eaters should definitely headto Rd) Spa p292; (Map Pak NSave SELF-CATERING baking is a triumph. the must-have antipastoplatter. Thehome scratch here, including thepestothatsitson Lots of mouth-watering treats are madefrom sculpture garden withagalleryalongside. Bay; mains$10-25; and noodlesoup,aswella kids’ hamper. expensive mealssuch asscrambledeggs light commendable. Ablackboard menuoffers in- isparticularly Itspastryselection to sweets. tosalads ning thegamutfromsandwiches is packed fullof run- delights delicatessen as oneof thebestintown,Replete’s showcase mains $10-14; salad. Caesar andthatrare standards tasty beast:thequality and biscuits,whiletheblackboard menuoffers deli-style savoury snacksanddivinecakes top-notch caféhascabinetscrammedwith thislocated nearthei-SITEandmuseum, St; mains$6-16; people. gingerbread school treats like lamingtons,Ecclescake and likedaily delights piesandpastries,old- Bond o Replete Bodyfuel Classic Espresso Bakery Classic Espresso h Mp p9 Sa Rd; Spa p292; (Map (Map p292 ; p292 (Map Thu-Sun)

L’Arte L’Arte

Mp p292; (Map

(Map (Map p292 ; Taniwha St) h Mp p292; (Map h breakfast &lunch) are both openuntilmidnight. Smooth, sexy andratherirre- Smooth,sexy h ( LAKETAUPO REGION••Taupo % % breakfast &lunch) 9am-4pm Wed-Sun,dailyinJan) 07-377 2434;40Tuwharetoa St;snacks 07-378 2962; 255 Mapara Rd,Acacia 07-378 2962;255Mapara %

% % 07-378 0606;45HeuSt;

Mp p292; (Map 07-378 9555; 67 Tongariro 07-378 9555;67Tongariro 07-378 8504) Widelyregarded h and Conveniently 8am-4pm) % , especially Woolworths 07-378 8757; This Beaut A

pub fare in man-size portions. DJs attheweekends. Foodispunter-pleasing to watch the world goby,orstrutyourstuff andcatchbeer thebiggame,sitoutsideand h ($60, five hours), Hamilton ($40,2¾ hours), toTurangi($25, 45minutes), Auckland buses services. following where youcanalsomake bookings forthe Centre The mainbusstopisatthe BUS connections. onward toAucklandand Wellington,withflights Air NewZealand AIR Getting There&Away to catch thelatest Hollywood blockbusters. $8) Starlight Arcade,offHoromatangiSt;tickets SITE forthe current programme. exhibitions andconventions. Ask atthe i- St) Centre Lake Great Entertainment mains $18-26; is agoodspotfor quiet Guinness. boozer offers heartymealanddrinkdeals St; at tap last visit. Speckled Hen, Tetleys andBulmers cideron especially whensmothered Old inmustard. bland stodge-fest butenjoyable nonetheless, humour addedtoitspubgrub,largely a with lashingsof culturalclichés andcheeky apublike thissinceoldBlighty, You ain’tseen Tce;meals$14-20; Lake things up a bit. while occasionallive bandsanddancingspice a balconyforenjoyingthesummerbreeze, DJs on Saturdays. There are soft-rock and videosmostnights sure thatthere willbeplenty of craichere. and abackpackers nextdoor,you canbe share of Irishephemeranailedtothewalls &TuwharetoaTongariro Sts;

Atheatre andhallhostingperformances, InterCity Starlight CinemaCentre Shed Mulligans Jolly GoodFellows Finn MacCuhal’s Groove h 10am-3am)

11am-late) Mp p292; (Map Mp p292; (Map

Mp p292; (Map

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Thiscavernous upstairs barhas % Mp p292; (Map Alocals’hang-out,thisIrish 11am-late)

( 09-913 6100) %

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h % Mp p292; (Map 0800 737000)

Mp p292; (Map 07-378 9032; 07-376 5393;18Tuwharetoa St; h 11am-late) % 07-378 3900;11Tuwharetoa St; A lively placetosupa Mp p292; (Map

11am-late) 07-376 9101; 15 Tongariro 07-376 9101;15Tongariro % runs several daily runsseveral 07-376 0340; Tongariro 07-376 0340;Tongariro % hasdailydirect % Corr,Guvnor!

16 Gascoigne St) 16 Gascoigne 07-378 6165;cnr Withitsfair % 07-378 0457;76 Taupo Travel Head here 07-378 7515; 299

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU ices toAuckland($43,five hours), Hamilton tions inand around Taupo. anhourlycircuitofdoes allthemajor attrac- St) water clear, and youcantake great iscrystal (Great Bodyof Spray). Onsunnydaysthe of thistorrent that theMaori calledHukanui thefullforce cross thefootbridge youcansee matic 10mdropinto asurging pool.As you slammed intoanarrowchasm, makingadra- Taupo bornfrom Lake has onlyjustbeen –is where NZ’slongest river, theWaikato –which stunning alongside, these falls are thespot Clearly signposted withacarparkandkiosk interesting spotsonyourwayback to town. north, atwhich youturnleft,topassother river SH1further andarches aroundtomeet be onHukaFalls Rd,which runsalongthe turnafter youcrosstheriverright andyou’ll as theHukaFalls TouristLoop.Take the first Wairakei Park (Map p301 north fromtownonSH1,you’llarrive atthe ) area, alsoknown Crossing theriver atTongariroStandheading Wairakei Park AROUND TAUPO ( and Taupo Taxis 10am-3pm Apr-Sep) hops $15-30; Taupo’s Hotbus Getting Around details. for deals forlifttickets andskihire. See p312 Ski Area (1½hours) andcanincludepackage runtoWhakapapa Park. Inwinter, services Taupo,tween TurangiandTongariroNational by booking in advance. hours). fare Substantial savings canbemade ($49, 3½hours) andWellington($49,5½ Palmerston North($34,3½hours), Waitomo ($7.50, onehour),Napier($21,twohours), hour), Tauranga ($39,6½hours), Turangi ($29, three hours), Rotorua($19,one hours). six North ($52,4¼hours) andWellington($81, hours), Napier($44,twohours), Palmerston Rotorua ($29,onehour),Tauranga ($51,2¾ 300 HK FALLS HUKA % . Segways canbehired from . Segways Shuttle services operate year-roundShuttle be- services Taxi inTaupo services are provided by Naked Bus Naked 0800 127341;www.segwayat taupo.co.nz). Top Cabs AETUORGO • Aon ap LAKE TAUPO REGION••AroundTaupo

( h %

(www.nakedbus.com)

Mp p292; (Map

( departs i-SITE hourly 9am-4pm Oct-Mar, i-SITEhourly9am-4pmOct-Mar, departs 07-378 5100) % is a hop-on, hop-off busthat isahop-on,hop-off 07-377 1967;www.hotbus.co.nz; 1-5 % , Go Cabs 07-378 9250;Tuwharetoa runsdailyserv-

% Segway TaupoSegway 07-378 5886)

.volcanoes.co.nz; Rd;adult/child $9.50/5; Karetoto &bookshop ity centre thermal activityinthearea? The Wondering whatthefussisaboutwithgeo- VOLCANIC CENTRE ACTIVITY trapeze. and beamThe comboincludestheswing,high a trickytwo-wire bridge andscalingropes. balancing inteetering ‘tree-tops’, negotiating challenging thatincludes course high-ropes adrenaline combo$40,half-day$65) $15, Rd;singleactivity 508; www.rocknropes.co.nz; Karetoto up honeyice cream too. and cosmetic–aswellmead.Thecaféserves manner of products–edible,medicinal bee viewinghive, andall enclosed honeytastings, admission free; % Helistar (see p296 ), isthe turn-off andbeyondtheHub(see p294 ) and thanakilometreLess beyond theHukaFalls ROCK’N ROPES&THEHONEYHIVE p294). (see rapids WalkingTrackto the or theAratiatiaRapids the longer HukaFalls Walkwaybacktotown, few shortwalksaroundthearea orpickup side of thefootbridge. Youcanalsotake a down tothe AratiatiaDam, allthewhiledodg- to thespray-filled footof theHukaFalls and 30-minute thrillridetakes youup theriver adult/child$95/55) trips 8572; www.hukafallsjet.com; for Further downtheFalls Looproadisthelaunch HUKA FALLS &PRAWNFARM JET the crater lake. Ruapehu eruptionandthe2007breach of A smalltheatre screens footage of the1995 a simulated above geyser andbelow ground. tornado thenwatch itwreak havoc, orsee shakes. Youcanalsoconfigure yourown with teeth-chattering shudders and sudden sit intoexperienceanearthquake, complete Simulator, alittleboothyoucan Earthquake activity, includinga working seismograph. displays onNZ’sgeothermal andvolcanic visitor centre hassomeexcellent,iftext-heavy, in thevolatileTaupo VolcanicZone,andthe monitors volcanicactivity This observatory 10am-4pmSat&Sun) 5pm Mon-Fri, photographs fromthelookoutonother A favourite exhibitwithkidsisthe nextdooris Right 07-374 8553;www.honeyhivetaupo.co.nz; Rd; Karetoto Huka Falls Jet Huka h 9am-5pm)

Mp p301; (Map Mp p301; (Map

Rock’n Ropes wih a a glass- a has which , % hasalltheanswers. , avertiginous and Honey Hive Honey Hive % 0800 4852538,07-374 lonelyplanet.com 07-374 8375;www volcanic activ-

( % Mp p301; (Map 0800 244 h . This 9am- p301; lonelyplanet.com $24; mains $13-30; $189/125). (adult/child with ahelicopter combo’ ridewith ‘hukastar port fromTaupo) andyoucanbundleitin turns. Tripsrunallday(priceincludes trans- ing daringlyanddoingacrobatic 360-degree (30km); Pureora L'Arte (3km) Bay (1.8km); (700m); Acacia Holiday Park To GreatLake (60km) Arataki 4 1 3 2 5 Acacia Bay Rd TAUPO &WAIRAKEI ὈὈ Just nextdoor,the To Nukuhau % 07-374 8474; www.prawnpark.co.nz; admission 07-374 8474;www.prawnpark.co.nz; Taupo Lake AC Map (p292) See CentralTaupo SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Mountain BikeTracks...... Huka PrawnFarm...... Huka FallsRiverCruise...... Huka FallsJet...... (see7) Hub Café...... (see3) Hot Springs...... Honey Hive...... Helistar Helicopters...... Craters oftheMoon...... AC Baths...... ohw os etrs...... A2 Moehiwa HorseVentures...... 8

To TaupoAirport(4km); h Rd Poihipi LAKETAUPO REGION••AroundTaupo Great Lake Walkway Wellington (375km) 9am-4pm, longer hrinsummer)

Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Turangi (45km); Lake Tce Lake

Hot WaterBeach Tongariro St Huka PrawnFarm Huka Taupo

Spa Rd 1 5 12 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B 5

B1 C1 D1 B2 C1 C2 B1 B3 25 26 Ave County Thermal 1 Two Mile Park 13 Spa Huka Falls Rd 22 Bay Wairakei GolfCourse...... Bookshop...... Taupo HotSpringsSpa...... Taupo HorseTreks...... Taupo GolfClub...... Taupo GlidingClub...... Taupo Bungy...... Sailing Centre...... Rock'n Ropes...... (see4) Rapids Jet...... Volcanic ActivityCentre& C2 Rapid Sensations/KayakingKiwi..

Gillies Ave (Map (Map

Spa

Taharepa Rd Taharepa 2 is

AC Baths Ave Baths AC Huka Falls Karapiti Rd Karapiti Tauhara Rd Tauhara 9 1 Lookout

Crown Rd Crown 24 Delany 27 adult/child $6/2.50). Best of isthe adult/child all,though, $6/2.50). Best experience, tours leave hourly(11amto4pm; over theprawnbeds.Foramore educational $10 for20),which allowsyou toshoot balls ‘fishing’ andKiller PrawnGolf(balls$1each, ing arrayof activitieshere, includingprawn freshwater prawnfarms.There’s asurpris- one of theworld’sonlygeothermally heated 16 15

Huka Falls Dr 29 4

Karetoto 19 3

10 Centennial 20 5

Rd Broadlands Rd Rd Rakanui 30 18 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

Moun Track toAratiatia Dr C1 C1 C4 C1 C3 D3 B3 B4 D1 t

ain Rd Mt Tauhara 1 7 arkiTemlVle...... C1 Wairakei ThermalValley...... SLEEPING Wairakei Resort...... Terraces Hotel...... Taupo Top10HolidayResort.... Taupo DeBrettsSpaResort...... Oasis ResortTaupo...... Millennium...... Huka Lodge...... Chelmswood Motel...... All SeasonsHolidayPark...... Wairakei Terraces...... Wairakei Resort...... (see30) Wairakei Wairakei Waikato Park (144km) Orakei Korako To TaupoQuad (37km); Hamilton Adventures (35km); (139km) To Napier 14

River 0 0 5

Aratiatia Rd Lookouts Aratiatia Walking Trail Cycling Trail Walking & D 6 (13km); Broadlands (40km); Rotorua Motorsport Park Adventure Park Aratiatia

Rapids Rd Rapids 0.5 miles View Rd View 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 To Taupo To Taupo 1 km (72km) (1km) 301

C1 C4 C3 C4 B4 B4 C2 B4 B3 C1

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU here, includingaconcertand 302 Rapids Rd,offSH5;adult/child $85/45) Rapids p301; points. vantage water thedamfromtwo good crash through the at 10am,noonand2pm.Youcan see 2pm and4pmfromApriltoSeptember from 1October to31March at10am,noon, completely, withthefloodgates opened hasn’t disappearedflow. Butthespectacle dam acrossthewaterway, the shuttingoff until thegovernment plonked ahydroelectric were partof aspectacular theWaikatoRiver Two kilometres SH5,the off Aratiatia Rapids ARATIATIA RAPIDS activity (one hour). interesting bushandthermal walkthrough a turn-off to geothermal areas them anduse in cooking. intohowMaorian insight peoplerevere the Experience Cultural famous PinkandWhite Terraces. The and geysers, re-creating, onasmallerscale,the h 378 0254;www.wairakeiterraces.co.nz; adult/child$18/9; it’s thesite of by thegeothermal powerproject, andtoday In 1958thevalleywassignificantlychanged 22 geysers and240mudpoolssprings. most active thermalareas intheworld,with Valley,as Geyser thisarea wasonceoneof the Known toMaori asWaioraValley andlatterly WAIRAKEI TERRACES &THERMAL VALLEY on SH1,about5kmnorth of Taupo. car park.Craters of theMoonissignposted by volunteers whokindlykeep aneyeonthe yond. There’s akioskattheentrance,staffed views downtothelake be- andmountains walk takes about great 45minutes andaffords pocking thelandscape. Theperimeter loop new steam vents andbubblingmudpools $5/2; adult/child p301; pressure shifted, the tion. Whenunderground water fell levels and ing of the1950sthatcreated thepowersta- to life asaresult of tinker- thehydroelectric This lesser-known geothermal area sprang CRATERS OFTHEMOON and nonprawndishesif you wish. restaurant where youcantryprawnsallways, Get anotherperspectiveGet from A few hundred metres northonSH1is 9am-5pm) % AETUORGO • Aon ap LAKE TAUPO REGION••AroundTaupo 0800 727437,07-3785828; www.rapidsjet.com; , man-madesilicaterraces, pools Wairakei Thermal Valley Walk Thermal Wairakei arki Terraces Wairakei h (adult/child $79/39.50; dawn-dusk) Craters oftheMoon Craters , a jetboat that appeared with Mp p301; (Map hangi, Rapids Jet Rapids h gives %

Maori 6pm) (Map (Map (Map (Map , an

07-

areas. But,sincethedestructionof thePink remaining quarter is pretty amazing. beneath thedamwaters of Ohakuri,the Lake three-quartersin NZ.Although of itnowlies in 1886,itisarguably thebestthermalarea left and White Terraces bytheTarawera eruption 5.30pm) .orakeikorako.co.nz; adult/child/family$28/10/68; Park &Thermal Cave A bitoffthebeaten track, Orakei Korako BMX bikes, quadbikes and go-karts. park. Italsohasafew raceykicksincluding videogamesandananimal tag, maze, laser Wed-Sun) $5-30; activities www.taupoadventurepark.co.nz; Taupo Park Adventure from AratiatiaDamto Huka Falls. summer) $30/15; p301; (Map signpost totheNational Equestrian Centre. Rdandlookforthe lookouts. GodownRapids the endof theaccessroadtoAratiatia the HukaFalls trip.Theboatdepartsfrom 35-minute itrivals ride–somesay sensational shoots alongthelowerpartof the rapids.It’sa tween Rotoruaand Taupo,tween reached by turn- of WaikatoRiver themighty ishalfwaybe- This beautifuland often-forgotten stretch Broadlands along the Waikato River. NZ River Jet ( opposite ) willzipyouthere isonSH5,viaMihi.Alternatively,turn-off the signposted turn-off. FromRotoruathe for 23km,andthentravel for14kmfrom from Taupo. Take SH1towardsHamilton Ohakuri. Lake feature. Entryincludesaboatrideacross isanotherstunningearly morninglight, Terrace means ‘theplaceof adorning’).The prepared forritualshere (Orakei Korako asamirrorbyMaoriused womenwho has ajadegreen tohave pool,thought been Ruatapu Cave geysers and the parkisfamous,andpasses around thecolourfulsilicaterraces forwhich 1½ hours) largely followsaboardwalk It’s about 25minutes toOrakei Korako walkingtrack(allowA sometimes-steep Four kilometres furthernorthonSH1is For alessrapidride,try h gets fewer visitors thanotherthermal , arelaxed jaunt(onehour,25minutes) , which sparkleslike ajewelinthe , afamily-oriented parkwithminigolf, departs 10.30am,12.30&2.30pmplus4.30pmin departs % . Thisimpressive naturalcave 0800 278336;AratiatiaDam;adult/child

Mp p290; (Map

(off Map (off Map p301 ; Orakei Korako Thermal KorakoThermal Orakei Huka Falls River Cruise Falls River Huka % lonelyplanet.com % 07-378 3131;www 0800 4627219; h Emerald h 9am-5pm 8am-

375; www.riverjet.co.nz; Homestead Rd; 2½hr ride inclentry 375; www.riverjet.co.nz; HomesteadRd;2½hrride erwise purelyerwise naturalthermalspringinthe Pool Korakoadult/child/family$125/50/300) to Orakei of Reporoa(see Map p290 ). ing off SH5ontoHomestead Rd,justsouth lonelyplanet.com .com; Ohuanga Rd; The walking tracksof Tongariro National Park. ship provides ready access totheski-fields and white-water raftingandswimming.Thetown- can beenjoyedinmanyotherways, including the World’.TheTongariroRiver, however, of ‘TroutFishing Capital it proclaimsitself nowadays isundoubtedly itsfish, forwhich Turangi’s claimtofame tric powerstation, townforthenearbyhydroelec- Once aservice pop 3900 TURANGI officesinTaupoDOC and Te Kuiti. information ontheparkare available fromthe have campingareas. Pamphlets, mapsand hours respectively fromtheroad-ends,also Waihaha Hut,located 45minutes andthree $5).BogInnand fice ori-SITE(pernight of- to buyhuttickets fromthelocalDOC 32. Hwy Mt Titiraupenga off (1042m),allaccessed Pureora (1165m)andtherockpinnacleof park, includingtrackstothesummitsof Mt There are the longandshort trampsthrough regenerationthe subsequent isimpressive. and a longcampaignbyconservationists, was stoppedinthisforest inthe1980safter the huge Pureora Forest (Map p290 ). Logging Fringing thewestern edge of Taupo Lake is Pureora ForestPark driveway off to your left. 2km andlookforarowof trees liningagravel Reporoa, headsouth area andchanging sheds. Toget here from soothing dip.Alongsideisasmallparking middle of afarmer’spaddockthatmakes a again. back before bundlingbackintotheboattozoom gorges toOrakei Korako,which youcanvisit you downstream magnificentsteamy through a thrillingfashionwith Information To stay overnightTo stay inthepark youneed Near thetownshipof Reporoa is This stretch of theriver canbeexplored in

(admission free; Turangi i-SITE h LAKETAUPO REGION••Turangi h ( % 8.30am-5pm) daily) 07-386 8999;www.laketauponz on BroadlandsRdfor , abedecked butoth- NZ River Jet Jet River NZ isagood stop ( % , zooming Butcher’s 0800 748 386 8607; .greigsport.co.nz; 59TownCentre; .greigsport.co.nz; .nz.co.nz; half-/fulldayfrom $300/550) half-/full dayfrom $280/550) .co.nz; per hr $85) .com; per hr $57) Barry Greig’s Sporting World Sporting Barry Greig’s guides and charters. hire gear, andhandlebookingsfor andsell Tightline Charters John Sommervell Ian Jenkins Cameron Brett arrangement. by as welltransport,gear, licenceandmeals guide willgive yousomelocalknow-how, i-SITE. the carry. Licencesare or available fromDOC onyourlicence,whichis detailed youmust 45cm, dependingonwhere youfish–this bait (exceptflies),andaminimumsizeof cluding abaglimitof of three fish, nouse fishery isprotected by specialconditionsin- year-round ontheriver. ThisuniqueTaupo for browntroutbutrainbowfishingisgood mous TongariroRiver with fingerlings. (see p304 ), which regularly restocks thefa- them istheTongariroNationalTroutCentre around Taupo. Agoodplace tolearnabout rainbow troutof legalsizeare bagged yearly truth isthatmore than28,000brownand measuring thelengthof asurfboard.The moreweighing of thanasack spudsand Taupo in1898,there have yarnsof been fish Ever since trout were introducedintoLake TROUT FISHING Sights &Activities Naylor’s Booksinthe town centre. Kiwibank (forcurrency exchange) are in and SH1 andOhuangaRd.Thepostoffice The mainbusstop is outside. reliefdetailed modelof thenationalpark. tivities. Italsohasinternet facilitiesanda ings fortransport,accommodationandac- licences, andcanmake allmannerof book- hut tickets, huntingandfishing skipasses, snow androadconditions.Itissues DOC Kaimanawa Forest Park, troutfishing, and for informationonTongariroNationalPark, There are companies intownthat several If you’re notsure where afishing tostart, The localarea February andMarch are thebestmonths h ( % 8am-4pm) ( % 07-386 0840;www.troutfishingguides ( ( % % 07-378 8192;www.cpf.net.nz; DOC isnearthejunctionof 07-386 5931,www.nymphfish 07-386 0033;pamsteve@xtra

Visitor Centre Centre Visitor ( h % 9am-5pm Mon-Sat). 07-386 6911;www

( %

303

07-

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU is updatedregularly withthelatestfishing conditions. -turangi.co.nz; towncentre; admission by donation; DOC-managed About 4kmsouthof Turangi onSH1isthe TONGARIRO NATIONAL TROUTCENTRE per hr$35) fishing from youcanhireBay forlake aluminiumdinghies launch office ( p293 ). Fishing tripscanalsobebooked viaTaupo’s Life Sporting TackleCreel House 304 .nz; 183Taupahi Rd; National Trout Centre (4km); 4 1 3 2

To Tongariro Tukehu St TURANGI

41 Turanga Ten kilometres eastof TurangiatMotuoapa Park (47km) Tongariro National Whakapapa Village(47km); Waihi (10km); Adventures (5km); Wai MaonFreshwater To Tokaanu(5km);

Waiouru Ran

(62km)

AETUORGO • Trni LAKE TAUPO REGION••Turangi

6 Pl 1 gia mohia Rd mohia . These can be used inthe canbeused . These bay only. Atirau Rd 7 ὈὈ ὈὈ 1 A ( % Motuoapa Hire Boats Motuoapa Hire

Ohuanga

07-386 8996,www.sportinglife ( Tau trout hatchery

h % tah

8am-5pm). anga

Rd Rd 10am-4pm) Pl Tureiti 07-386 7929;[email protected]

h 2 Kutai St Kutai 17

18 Tongariro Rd Tongariro 4 0 0 14 5 8am-5.30pm) Itswebsite McLaren

Park Hinerangi St Hinerangi 11 Taupahi Rd 16 3

, which makes a Taiahi Arahori St Arahori Rangip 15 ( oia %

( Rd 12

% 9 Pl Ngawaka Pl

Tongariro B Motuoapa (10km) Tauta 07-386 8085;

River Licorice (8km); 07-386 7000; (3 Hours Walk Tongariro River 10 hanga Rd

way Lodge (1km); To Tongariro 300 m

Return) 8

0.2 miles Te Aho Te 1

13 Rd stops enroute, includinganunderwater view- gentle stroll,andthere are interesting several The landscapedwalkwaymakes forashort and west of Turangion SH47),afavourite for Rotopounamu Taupo, 12kmnorthof Turangi on SH1. Walk River SH41 (40minutes return); and Maunganamu 8km southof Turangi(15minutes return); Track (threeCentre hours return) and beyond. on which youcanwalktotheNationalTrout This trackjoinsthe ing viewsof MtPihangaandthevolcanoes. (one hourreturn), ariverside ambleafford- A favourite isthe There are short walksaroundtown. several WALKING showing a14-minute filmabout the river. a collectionof rodsandreels, andatheatrette volunteers, haspolishededucationaldisplays, picnic area. The ing chamber, hatchery, keeping pondsanda pleasant stop even ifyou’re stopeven pleasant notafish fanatic. Bus Station...... (see3) Thyme forFood...... Red CraterCafé...... (see9) New World...... Mustard SeedCafe...... Grand CentralFry...... Four FishSportsBar...... Sportsmans Lodge...... Riverstone Backpackers...... Parklands MotorLodge...... Judges PoolMotel...... Extreme Backpackers...... Creel Lodge...... Anglers ParadiseResortMotel...... Vertical AssaultClimbingWall...... (see9) Tongariro RiverRafting...... Sporting Life...... Creel TackleHouse...... (see8) Barry Greig'sSportingWorld...... Turangi i-SITE...... Post Office...... (see2) Naylor's Books...... Kiwibank...... (see 2) DOC...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Another nicelake stroll isat Other goodleg-stretchers include , nearthetopof Te PonangaSaddle, (30minutes), which atLake starts

(Greenstone 11km south- Lake, Track River Walk River , 4kmnorthof Turangion Tongariro River LookoutTrack River Tongariro Tongariro River Walkway River Tongariro visitor centre, runby lonelyplanet.com Turangi–Taupo Hinemihi’s Hinemihi’s 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Lake Lake B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B1 B2 B2 B2 B3 A3 A4 B2 B2 B2 A2 A3 ,

Whitewater Tongarirotrip(gradeIII)withan fers raftingandkayakingtripsincludingthe and Hikes the carpark,two hours around). ideal forpicnics(30minutes tothelake from alike. Ten are andLongBeach Minute Beach walkers, swimmers, twitchers andtree huggers Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels i Pl;dm$23-25,d&tw$56-66; backpackers.co.nz; 26Ngawaka Backpackers Extreme BUDGET Sleeping levels. skill child $15/11) Climbing Wall water tripsontheTongariroRiver (see p294 ). $40). There’s free pick-up from Turangi. the Tokaanustream (1½tofourhours, $30to hours, $75).Visitors canalsofreedom paddle more relaxed rapidswithtrout-feeding (three overhours, $99),ortheLowerTongariroRaft topped off byasoakinthermalpool(four optional waterfall jump(conditionspermitting) 203Puanga St,Tokaanu) 226; www.raftingkayaking.com; (two hours tofullday,$75 to $145). p314 ), Tree TrunkGorge andFishers Tracks unguided bikingtripsonthe42Traverse (see bikes (twohours, $20)andrunsguided quiry). Thecompanyalsohires outmountain day’s raftfishing(summeronly,priceonen- the gradeIITongariroortake youonafull youoff withathree-hourcan start tripon Rafting forbeginners.summer, suitable grade Istretches inthelower reaches during III rapidsforriver rafting,aswellsome The Tongariro River has somesuperbgrade OTHER ACTIVITIES and thermal springs. thesmallmudpools accessible) showcases minute stroll alongtheboardwalk(wheelchair stream, picnicarea, displaysandashop. A20- an unpretentious facilitywithhotpools,trout h pools20min$7/3; St; publicpoolsadult/child$8/4,private The TOKAANU THERMAL POOLS along withmanyothers around the district. Wai Maori Freshwater Adventures Adventures Freshwater Wai Maori For indoorfun,headtothe inTaupo Sensations Rapid alsorunswhite- The DOC ) 10am-9pm) Crafted frompine andcorrugated iron, Tokaanu Thermal Pools Thermal Tokaanu ( % toscalewallsthatchallenge all ($2.50) details mostof walks, ($2.50) details these 0800 101024;www.trr.co.nz; AtirauRd;$99) , 5kmnorthwestof Turangi,are ( Lake Taupo –AGuidetoWalks % 07-386 6558; 26 Ngawaka Pl;adult/ 07-386 6558;26Ngawaka

( % 07-386 8949; www.extreme 07-386 8949;www.extreme ( %

07-386 8575; Mangaroa 07-386 8575;Mangaroa LAKETAUPO REGION••Turangi Vertical Assault Assault Vertical Tongariro River Tongariro ( % 0800 865 of-

d $66-78; 222Tautahangawww.riverstonebackpackers.co.nz; Rd;s$27, set ingreenset and peacefulgrounds,backs s/d $95/110; All the ground-level suitesAll theground-level have theirown onto afinestretch of theTongariro River. honour of your arrival. hosts mayrunyourflagupthe pole,in abouttheonethatgot away.Kindlytalk nice newbarbecuearea isthebestplace to door decksforrelaxing the beers, although cleaning area. Allone-bed roomshave out- kitchenettes, newbathroomsandafish- older motel hastidy,spaciousroomswith motel.co.nz; 92Taupahi Rd; s/d/f$85/95/125; Judges PoolMotel MIDRANGE cottage three.sleeps well-equipped kitchen. Theself-contained its ownbalconyandalltheroomsshare the trout-fishing folk.Thelarger familyroomhas garden,isahiddenbargainwith asweet for ontotheriver,Backing thismotel-style spot, d/f/cottage$60/95/95; www.sportsmanslodge.co.nz; to Saturday(meals around $24). bar andrestaurant isopenfordinnerMonday sports are definitely onoutfront.Theon-site play area forthekids,whilefree-ranging ball presented units.There’s aswimmingpooland functional campingarea andsplayof well- campers andmotel-seekers withitssmallbut an epicfrontlawn,thismotorlodge serves ps St;sites$28,r$94; .parklandsmotorlodge.co.nz; 25Arahori activities. local help youget outof andintosome thehouse Robiseageraway fromhome,although to homeowner wouldbeproud.Atruehome yard (withpizzaoven) of which anyKiwi kitchen and lounge, andastylish landscaped cilities includingsports-gear storage, enviable reborn asabijoubackpackers. fa- Excellent lous, Rob’s refitted padisacleverly oldhome barbecue make thisarelaxing budget bet. fire, asunnycourtyardwithhammocksand are cleanandcomfy.Alounge withanopen pricier doubleshave ensuites, butallrooms have bunksandskipthecarpet,while eight climbing wallandcaféonsite. Cheaperdorms this modernbackpackers hasthebonusof a Creel Lodge Creel Lodge Sportmans Parklands MotorLodge o ) i On the main road but set backbeyond Onthemainroadbutset Riverstone Backpackers Riverstone ) ps Relatively newandlookingfabu-

( %

) ( Thisheavenly hideaway, % ( 07-386 8081;183Taupahi Rd; % 07-386 7892;www.judgespool 07-386 8150;15Taupahi Rd; ( % 0800 456284;www

( % 07-386 7004; p ) This 305 p

)

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU prevails. Roomsare trimmedinsumptuous in aone-hectare leafypocket where privacy something outof TwinPeaks, thisplacesits Rd; mains$8-18; This bottle shopandbarhas acafétoo,with Ohuanga Rds;pizzas$17, mains$26-33; meals includingsoup and nachos. snacks,breakfast, andlight Backpackers serves loungy outdoorarea, thiscaféinsideExtreme $9-16; cakessandwiches, and good espresso. breakfast offerings like benedict, eggs modern caféwithagardenarea hasstaple day brekkie, burgers and milkshakes. good forfastandsimplefare such aspies,all- $8-16; fryable. else top fishandchips, plusburgers andanything meals $6-9; Courtyard and ice cream. cheap mealsandlovely light homebaking. 8km northof Turangiforexcellentcoffee, lunch) $4-13; o Eating rything fromfishing guidesto horse riding. willhappilyassistwithbookingsforeve- Staff the bar,restaurant, tennis courtorinthespa. private getaway, butsocialisingcanbehadat rounded byindividualwoodenchalets. It’sa some mainlodge withidyllicdeckarea, sur- this luxurycomplexiscentred uponahand- drive fromtownon9hectares of parkland, .co.nz; GraceRd;s/d$550/1046; Lodge Tongariro TOP END fare. standard only) hasacracklingfireplace andamenuof site. Therestaurant (meals$20to$30,dinner guides happilyarranged andasmokehouse on superking beds.It’sgeared upforanglers, with dark woodandfeature and bigtelevisions d from$115,ste$150-175; St; www.anglersparadise.co.nz; cnrOhuangaRd&Raukura gardens. attractive kitchen facilitiesandabalconyoverlooking 306 Four Fish Sports Bar Four Fish Sports Café Crater Red Café Seed Mustard Fry Grand Central Thyme forFood Thyme Motel Anglers Paradise Resort . It’sworthholdingoff forthispitstop OGRR RUD • ogrr ainlPr NationalParkTONGARIRO &AROUND••Tongariro h h h Licorice breakfast &lunch) breakfast &lunch) 7am-5pm Mon-Sat,9am-4pmSunbreakfast & h 11am-8.30pm) h

( ( % % (

% ( breakfast &lunchWed-Mon) % 07-386 5551;SH1atMotuapa;meals

07-386 7946;www.tongarirolodge ( 07-386 6553; 26 Ngawaka Pl;mains 07-386 6553;26Ngawaka % 07-386 0552;TownCentre; meals

(

Bright andcheery witha Bright % pis ( A local legend serving Alocallegend serving Apopulartearoom, % 07-386 5344;8OhuangaRd; 07-386 6340;cnrPihanga & p 07-386 7377;Ohuanga )

( Five minutes’ % h Lookinglike ) 0800 500039; lunch &dinner) panini, This

Tongariro isdefinitely one of NZ’smost shiny Alpine CrossingandtheNorthernCircuit. Whakapapa ($30,15mins)fortheTongariro ($35, 45mins),Taupo ($49,1¼hours) and gariroexpeditions.com) min). 40 Alpine Crossingthree timesaday($35, TurangiandWhakapapa/Tongariro tween Palmerston North($29, 3½ hours). 5½ hours) viaallmajor stopsincluding runtoWellington($49, Going south,buses 6½ hours) viaRotorua($19,twohours). hours) andAuckland($43,($39, seven ices toTaupo ($7.50,onehour),Tauranga from Taupo allstop at Turangi. along theeastern sideof thelake toand thattraveland Rotorua–Wellingtonbuses from thei-SITE.TheAuckland–Wellington ( Both Getting There&Away Rd; available. pizzas with fish,steak, hotpot-typefare. Takeaway álacarte theplacegoes while intheevening lunches for$15,orchoices fromthecabinet, Rings as MordorinPeter Jackson’s parks,bestknownforitscameo spectacular of spiritual significance. anarea the actasonlywaytopreserve to NZfromthelocal (carried away).Thethree peaks were a gift and comesfrom andRuapehu) park (Tongariro,Ngauruhoe originally covered thethree of mountains the first nationalpark.ThenameTongariro in 1887, Established Tongariro was NZ’s TONGARIRO NATIONALPARK TONGARIRO &AROUND Whakapapa SkiArea in winter ($40). return) and NorthernCircuit($40),and tles fortheTongariroAlpineCrossing($35 Shuttles departat6.20am and 7am. % With itstowering active volcanoes, Mountain Shuttle Bus Naked and willenjoythebright Self-caterers Tongariro Expeditions Tongariro Extreme Backpackers alsoprovides shut- h 09-913 6200) trilogy, filmed 2001–2003. Insum- 8am-8pm). InterCity New World

(www.nakedbus.com)

buses arrive buses atanddepart ( % runsshuttlesfromTurangi tonga

09-913 6100) ( % ( %

( iwi % (southwind)and 0800 117686) 07-386-8780; Ohuanga 0800 828763;www.ton (tribe), whosaw runsdailyserv- lonelyplanet.com and Lord of the runsbe- Newmans riro

Crossing. Inwinter it’sabusy ski area. Northern CircuitandtheTongariroAlpine longer theTongariro tramps,mostnotably mer itoffers excellentshort walksand lonelyplanet.com eruption, accompaniedbya smallearthquake, Thelatest the1996 skiseason. sky, writingoff intothe groaned andthrust ashcloudshigh rumbled,the followingyear themountain of ashandsteam. FromJune toSeptember volcanic rockandcloaked thearea inclouds lar 1995eruptions,whenRuapehu spurted were precursors justtame tothespectacu- 1988 thevolcanospewedhotrocks. These hiccups of 1969and1975,inDecember sprayed withhotmudduringthe volcanic Theupperslopeswerepark’s volcanoes. andmostactive(2797m) isthehighest of the The long,multipeaked summitof Mt Ruapehu Mt Ruapehu them in advance. you upagain(see p313 ). Make sure youbook willing totake youtotrailheads andpick on tracksafety, see p81 . tentions witharesponsible person. Formore safety precautions, includingleaving yourin- erly equippedandtake allothernecessary Tongariro NationalPark, youmustbeprop- arefatalities) notuncommon.Whenvisiting quickly thanyouexpect,andrescues (and Theweathercanchangemountains. more mation, orbookonline (www.doc.govt.nz). centres forinfor-around thepark;askatDOC excellent guided-walksprogrammeinand late Decembertolate January offers an DOC Ohakune ( p316 ) andTurangi( p303 ). From walks in the park. produces anumberof handybrochures onall ($19) isworthbuyingbefore tramping.DOC The detailed small shop:theperfect placeforrainydays. area includinganaudiovisual display,anda on thegeological andhumanhistoryof the conditions. Italsohasinteresting exhibits huts andcurrent skiing,trackandweather on allcorners of thepark,includingwalks, western sideof thepark.Ithasmapsandinfo nounced ‘fa-ka-pa-pa’)Village, onthenorth- to5pmApr-Nov) Dec-Mar, The Information There are plentyof transportoperators theparkare in centres serving Other DOC Many visitors toNZcomeunstuckinthe DOC Visitor Centre DOC Visitor Tongariro NationalTongariro Park TONGARIRO & AROUND •• Tongariro NationalPark TONGARIRO&AROUND••Tongariro isinWhakapapa(pro-

( % 07-892 3729; h 8am-6pm map nificent walk, passes besidethe lakes, nificent walk, passes right Tongariro Alpine Crossing( p309 ), amag- springs gushingout of itssideatKetetahi. The lakes summitaswell ashot dottingitsuneven erupted in1926.Ithasanumber of coloured Tongariro (1967m).ItsRedCrater last Another oldbutstillactive volcanois Mt Mt Tongariro infrastructure. to one wasinjured andthere waslittledamage lahar sweptdowntheWhangaehuValley. No- 2007 theywere triggered whenamoderate up atthecrater lake’s edge, andinMarch again tocatastrophe. Alarmsystems were set foreseen thatamajor laharcouldleadonce 1995–96 eruption.As itwas rose, thelevels lost their lives. arrived. Thetrainwasderailedand153people just moments before acrowdedexpress train Tangiwai OhakuneandWaiouru), (between andtookoutarailwaybridgemountain at mud (knownasalahar)sweptdownthe 1953 thedamburst andthefloodof volcanic blocked theoverflow. OnChristmasEve dramaticallyaseruptions Crater rose Lake est naturaldisasters. of From1945thelevel ofRuapehu wasthecause oneof NZ’sdeadli- mountain. the inahuton ously injuringaclimbersleeping came outof 2007,seri- theblueinSeptember Worse events have events Worse occurred. Infact,Mt The crater lake wasblocked again,bythe medicine andrituals. dyes,around themare usedforcooking, reverence forthesesites, andwhythepools of Tongarirotowarmthechief. inthevolcanoesfore finallyburstingforth Island), thenexplodedoutatRotoruabe- (Whitetheir headsupfirstlyatWhakaari tofindNgatoro-i-rangi, butstuckHawaiki help. The godsroared underground from on thefire gods,Te Pupu andTe Hoata,for couldn’t findhiswaybackdown.Hecalled amateur navigatorandasnightfell hestill claimed asawarrior,Ngatoro-i-rangi wasan in searchofmore landforhistribe. Whileac- Ngatoro-i-rangi, whoclimbedMtTongariro Maori legendtells ofthegreat chief HOTHEADS TOTHERESCUE This explainsMaori divineintervention

307

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU 308 Wanganui (99km) To Raetihi(5km); Taumarunui (35km) Whakahoro To 4 6 1 3 2 5 TONGARIRO NATIONALPARK&AROUND Auckland (296km) ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ (10km); 49A Horopito Owhango OGRR RUD • ogrr ainlPr rud NationalParkTONGARIRO &AROUND••Tongariro &Around Forest 4 National Park Pokaka To Erua Raurimu 49 ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ Discovery Lodge...... Blyth Hut...... Mountain Air...... Adventure Headquarters...... (see 14) SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Main Trunk AC 4

Auckland– Railway Erua Stream Whakapapanui Ohakune Makatotoe River

Wellington Waikurie ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ Rangataua Conservation Area 11 Tongariro Forest Hauhungatahi (1521m) Circuit Tongariro Northern Tongariro Crossing

Ohakune Lake Surprise Matariki 3 7 ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ Mountain Falls

Old Blyth 1 Toakakura Track Whakapapa 3 2 1 Conservation Area Falls Mounds Lake Rotokura (Karioi Lakes) The B3 B4 B3 48 Rapids Rangataua Karioi 16 Village 9

Rd Silica Waitonga Falls

Rapids Mahuia Pukepoto Mangawhero Falls B Top of the of Top Forest Mangaturuturu Shelter...... Mangaturuturu Hut...... Mangatepopo Hut...... Mangahuia CampingGround.... Mangaehuehu Hut...... Ketetahi Hut...... Dome Shelter...... Falls Tawhai ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ

Caves Okupata Taurewa Mangatepopo

Village 2 Iwikau Whanganui River

Turoa SkiArea 47

10 Bruce 49 Rd 6 4 Mt Tongariro (1692m) Mt Pukekaikiore National Park Te Porere (2797m) Mt Ruapehu Redoubt Ski Area Whakapapa

Crater Lake (1967m)

Tongariro Taranaki Rd

Falls Rotoaira Tokiahuni Stream Ski Area Tangiwai Round Mangatepopo Tukino Springs 8 Soda - North Crater Rotoaira Karioi

Forest the-Mo 13 Hot Springs Forest 14 Saddle Lower Tama Lake Ketetahi

Mt Ngauruhoe Wahianoa River Wahianoa un Upper Tama

Ohinepango Rd

tain Tongariro

Track Lake (2287m) 10 Springs South Crater

Whangawhu River Ketetahi

9 8 7 6 5 4

Otamangakau Lake Track Wairehu ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ Rangipo B4 B4 C2 B3 B4 C2 B4 Desert Red Crater

Emerald Lakes Otukou Tukino Waiouru 5 Blue Lake Taumarunui (57km)

1 Wellington (261km) To PalmerstonNorth(140km); Canal Whakapapaiti Hut...... Waihohonu Hut...... Tongariro HolidayPark...... Rangipo Hut...... Oturere Hut...... Ground...... Mangawhero Camping 12 Lookout (1km);

Central Crater

15 Rd 47 Te MariCrater 0 0

To Scenic severe conditions Desert Rd (4WD) Rotoaira Desert Rdmay Lake be closedin WARNING Moawhango Opotaka Historic Lake Place Army TrainingArea Restricted Entry Tokaanu 46 Rotopounamu 41 Rotoaira Lake Forest Mt Pihanga (1325m) lonelyplanet.com

Three Rangipo Desert Rd D 16 15 14 13 12 11 Tongariro Kaimanawa B3 C3 C2 C4 C3 A5 Forest Kings Lake Taupo Park To Taupo

River Puketarata Turangi (45km)

Range 6 miles Falls 10 km 1 Ruapehu andTongariro,which have multi- formed inthelast2500years. Incontrastto (2287m)isestimated tohaveMt Ngauruhoe Much younger thantheothertwovolcanoes, Mt Ngauruhoe lush native forest. craters, several anddownthrough through lonelyplanet.com tickets are available fromDOC visitor centres. is allowednearall of and thehuts.Hutpasses cookers insummer,toilets andwater. Camping Waihohonu. Thehutshave mattresses, gas huts: Mangatepopo, Ketetahi, Oturere and byfourwell-maintained track isserved the trackisfromDecembertoMarch. The The safest andmostpopulartimetowalk WALKING THETRACK Springs fromWaihohonu Hut (30 minutes). Crater (twohours) orwalktoOhinepango is alsopossibletoclimbTongarirofromRed summit (three hours),to Ngauruhoe’s butit most popularsidetripfromthemaintrackis that take fromafew hours to overnight. The including cones,lava flowsand glacial valleys. Springs Tama Lakes Emerald Lakes liantly colourfulvolcaniclakes including the South Crater volcaniccraters, several through includingthe Tongariro Alpine Crossing. to complete. Thewalkcovers thefamous Whakapapa Village, three taking tofourdays at Mangatepopo carparkandconcludedat thewalkisbegun Track.Generally Mountain RdandbycontinuingtheRound Desert including WhakapapaVillage, Ketetahi Rd, cuit, there andfinish are points, start several around, particularlyof MtTongariro. As acir- viewsall spectacular andaffords Ngauruhoe Northern Circuitcircumnavigates Mt Tongariro NorthernCircuit asoneofClassed NZ’sGreat Walks,the mountaineers. experienced snow) thissteep climbisdefinitely onlyfor be climbedinsummer,butwinter (under asMtDoomin star volcano andthereason to whyitwaschosen the onlyoneof thethree thatlookslike a volcano withperfectly symmetricalslopes– isaconical,single-ventple vents, Ngauruhoe There are possibilitiesforsidetrips several of thecircuitincludetramping Highlights ; and various other volcanic formations ; andvariousothervolcanicformations ; thecold , Central Crater Central , Blue Lake TONGARIRO & AROUND •• Tongariro NationalPark TONGARIRO&AROUND••Tongariro Soda Springs Lord of the Rings andthe and Red Crater Red Upper and Ohinepango Ohinepango and . Itcan ; bril- Lower Lower the endof the track. as youdescendfrom Ketetahi Huttowards vegetation atall, tothelushpodocarpforest altitudeswhereplaces athigher there isno ranging fromalpine scrubandtussock, to side tripstokeep it interesting. prefer todoitintwodays,throwing inafew you’re notintopwalkingconditionyoumay make sure youare adequately equipped. If Weather canchange withoutwarning,so is exhaustingandshouldn’tbetaken lightly. Rd off SH47. Crossing canbereached fromMangatepopo ends of thetrack.TheTongariro Alpine there toboth are plentyof shuttleservices ofthe Ketetahi itspopularity, track.Because day,withtheextrawalkalongtheir second onNorthern Circuitcomplete thissection and Ketetahi Huts.Trampers the tackling theMangatepopoNorthern Circuitbetween featuresthe mostspectacular of theTongariro lakes. Andtheviewsain’tbadeither. Itcovers ter to steaming vents andbeautifulcoloured ular volcanicgeography, fromanactive cra- 3hr 1½hr Tongariro AlpineCrossingtraverses spectac- 5½hr Reputedly thebestone-daywalkinNZ, 1½hr Tongariro AlpineCrossing 3½hr Village Waihohonu HuttoWhakapapa HuttoWaihohonu Oturere Hut HuttoOturere Ketetahi 3-4hr Hut toKetetahi Emerald Lakes HuttoEmeraldLakes Mangatepopo Hut VillagetoMangatepopo Whakapapa TimeRoute walking time,ornotattempt it at all. tofactorinsignificantextra You mayneed alpine trek requiring iceaxes andcrampons. it iscovered insnow,andbecomesatough inwinter,this trackisquite when difficult huts $5/10)should However, bepurchased. or ordinaryhuttickets campsites/ (pernight months. these HutPassBackcountry during cannotbe used beside them.Ordinaryhuttickets and the inthehutsorcamp advance, whetheryoustay $20/10) isrequired in and mustbebought October toearlyJune)a night, campsitesnight, adult/child $15/7.50,huts During the summer season (fromlateDuring thesummerseason The track passes through vegetation zones through The trackpasses inoneday,but The Crossingisachievable Estimated walkingtimesinsummer: HutPassAt othertimes,theBackcountry Great WalksPassGreat

(per 309

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU Mt Ngauruhoe and MtTongariro.Mt Ngauruhoe Mt track includeascentstothesummitsof at anumber of points depending onwhere You canget trail tothe RoundtheMountain WALKING THETRACK beginners or the unprepared. andnot recommendedparticularly tough for remote BlythHutorTama Thistrailis Lakes. estimate ifyou’re includingsidetripstothe complete thishike, withsixdaysarealistic moors tomajestic views. mountain sity of country,fromglacialrivers totussocky around MtRuapehu, thistrailtakes inadiver- the busyTongariroAlpineCrossing.Looping 1½hr but isknownasbeingaquieter alternative to formoresuitable experiencedtrampers – 1½hr – hike isdifficult This off-the-beaten-track Round theMountain Huttoroadend 1½-2hr Ketetahi Hut toKetetahi Emerald Lakes 1½hrreturn SaddletoEmeraldLakes Mangatepopo summit(sidetrip) Craterto Tongariro Red Saddle toMtNgauruhoe Mangatepopo 1½hr Saddle HuttoMangatepopo Mangatepopo 15min Hut RdendtoMangatepopo Mangatepopo TimeRoute kitchen crowded, especiallyat peak times. ties (exceptforbunks),which canmake the allof canuse Campers case. thehutfacili- tobringcampinggear, justin it’s advisable basis, are claimedonafirst-come, first-served year (summerandschool holidays).As bunks andatthebusiesttimesofSaturday nights therehas 50to60peopletryingstay on park. Ithasbunksfor24people,butregularly you musthave aGreat WalksPass (see p309 ). atorcampbesideeitherhut In summer,tostay Ketetahi Hutisacoupleof hours before theend. ofpopo Rd,isnearthestart thetrack,and The Mangatepopo Hut,reached viaMangate- WALKING THETRACK by apoledroute from Red Crater. climb. Thesummitof Tongariroisreached beginning of thetrackafter thefirst steep the Mangatepopo Saddle,reached nearthe canbeascendedmosteasilyfrom Ngauruhoe 310 umt(ieti) 2hr return summit (sidetrip) Ketetahi Hutisthemostpopularin Worthwhile sidetripsfromthemain You shouldallowatleastfourdays to Estimated summerwalkingtimes: OGRR RUD • ogrr ainlPr NationalParkTONGARIRO &AROUND••Tongariro April) lt u sd rp 1hr 1½hr 2-3hr Blyth Hut(sidetrip) 6hr 5-6hr 4-5hr Tama (sidetrip) Lakes 2-3hr 5-6hr Village HuttoWhakapapa Whakapapaiti Hut HuttoWhakapapaiti Mangaturuturu 5-6hr Hut HuttoMangaturuturu Mangaehuehu Hut HuttoMangaehuehu Rangipo Hut Waihohonu HuttoRangipo 3-4hr HuttoWaihohonu Oturere Hut HuttoOturere Mangatepopo Hut VillagetoMangatepopo Whakapapa TimeRoute track (see p309 ). aGreatyou’ll need Walkspassforpartof the camping. Fromtheendof October toJune, adult/child forabedinhutand$5/2.50 on thismultidaytrack,andcosts$10/5per ble person andcheck inwhenyou get back. plans andintended return date witharesponsi- sureadequate toleave foodsupplies.Be your carry clothingforallclimesandmore than No 273-04 maps(such detailed as sufficiently the trackyoushouldprepare Take thoroughly. clothing)isarequirement.cialised Totake on full alpinegear (iceaxe, cramponsandspe- bysnow,and and walkingismadedifficult of avalanche. Atothertimesof year,navigation when there is littleornosnow,andlesschance Village andreturn there tofinish the loop. Hut. Mosttrampers atWhakapapa start RdorWhakapapaiti tion, OhakuneMountain Whakapapa Village, Waihohonu Trackjunc- from andend;choose you wanttostart to Crater leave Lake daily at9.30amfrom the ( chairlift You cancutthree hours off itbycatching the at IwikauVillage attheTopof theBruceRd. walkbeginsity. Thismoderate-to-difficult strictly off limitswhenthere’s volcanicactiv- theacidiclake butthiswalkis upclose, see hours return) isagoodone,allowingyouto and weather conditions. and longwalksinthepark,aswelltrack maps andinformationoninteresting short Whakapapa, OhakuneandTurangihave andi-SITEvisitorcentres atThe DOC Other Walks % The walkuptoRuapehu’s The trackissafest from December toMarch Estimated summerwalkingtimes: inhutsorcampingisnecessary Sleeping reservations 07-892 3738; adult/child incl lift pass$90/55) 07-8923738;adult/child incllift reservations fromWhakapapa SkiArea.

(adult/child $20/10; ), check onthelatest conditions,and h 9am-4pm, mid-Dec–end lonelyplanet.com Crater Lake Crater Guided walks Parkmaps (seven (seven

excavations of a pre-European Maori village Maori excavations ofapre-European site. Taranaki Falls onWairere Stream. tracks start fromtheroadleading tracks start you’re a mountaineer. ing outanddon’tattempt itinwinter unless tocheckyou’ll need conditionsbefore head- chairlift. Like mostof thewalksinTongariro, Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels for, with gear hire, skischool, goodlearner arealtitude of wellcated 2300m. Beginners field each, youuptoamaximum bothtaking offer similar skiing: around400hectares of the Area The twomain ski areas are the Skiing Rapids from SH47about200mtheMahuia car park. Falls Matariki just below the rapids. Stream SH47crossestheWhakapapanui to Whakapapa, Rapids Mahuia Rotoaira Lake following: the the nationalpark’snorthside,including Still more trackstake offfromSH47,on NORTH OFWHAKAPAPA VILLAGE and gardenstypicalofthepark’s vegetation zones. visitor informationcentre andpassingthroughbeechforest suitable forwheelchairs,beginningabout200mabovethe Walk Nature Whakapapa Taranaki Falls (beware ofwindson Tongariro the saddle). affordsfineviewsofNgauruhoeand swim. Theupperlake and Ngauruhoe,theTama are great forarefreshing Lakes six hoursreturn). Onthe Tama SaddlebetweenRuapehu Tama Lakes Silica Rapids Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe. areas forviewsof through beechforest to alpine-shrub Track Ridge centre, including the following: listswalksfromthevisitor lished byDOC, Nationalaround Tongariro Park Mapleading uptoit(see p312 Whakapapa visitorcentre andfromtheroad A numberof finewalksbeginnearthe FROM WHAKAPAPA VILLAGE Ohakune totheTuroaSkiArea (see p316 ). Top oftheBruceRdabove Village. Whakapapa ing alpinefeatures and,inthefinal2.5km,passesdown Stream. Thetrackpassesinterest- by therapidsonWaikare namedforthesilicamineraldepositsformedhere Rapids, In addition to those below, several good below,several In additiontothose Turoa Ski Area Turoa Ski (1630m),above WhakapapaVillage, and A17kmtracktotheTama (fiveto Lakes A30-minutereturn walk, whichclimbs A2½-hour,7kmlooptracktotheSilica A 20-minute return track to the falls starts A20-minutereturn tracktothefallsstarts A two-hour, 6kmlooptracktothe20m Atwo-hour, On the shores of Lake Rotoairaare Ontheshores ofLake About 2km north oftheturn-offleading About2kmnorth , tothesouth.The twofields A15-minutelooptrack TONGARIRO & AROUND •• Tongariro NationalPark TONGARIRO&AROUND••Tongariro ).

Walks inand Whakapapa Ski Ski Whakapapa ($3), pub- www.whakapapa.net.nz; sites$34,dm/cabins/units$25/70/99; www.whakapapa.net.nz; tween NationalParktween andtheSH48turn-off mountain andorganise forthemtobereadymountain grounds: couples. for units beautiful bushland andself-contained ers lodge, campsites perched ontheedge of tion options,includinga32-bed backpack- the village hasawiderange of accommoda- p door. next andAdventureCafé Headquarters (skihire) unitsare fresh andlight. New self-contained communal facilitiesmore thanadequate. are with basic whilecampingispleasant ongoing renovations bykeen owners. Units is anoldKiwiclassicontheupswing,with Park (approximately 24kmfromeither),this TurangiandNational SH47 halfwaybetween family cabin4people$150; www.thp.co.nz; SH47;sites$28-30,cabins/d$30/50,new HolidayPark Tongariro greater a offer range (p305) of options. Turangi and ( p318) NationalParkski season. ( p314 ), Ohakune rates are generally duringthe much higher tion, andpricesquoted here are forsummer; Whakapapa Village haslimited accommoda- well ashuts,accessibleonlybywalkingtracks. park (nearNationalPark andOhakune),as runstwocampinggroundswithinthe DOC Sleeping www.mtruapehu.com. when youarrive, which canbedoneonlineat board gear$63/49) gearadult/child$55/39,1-daysnow- 1-dayfullski Resort; ( Ohakune, oratWhakapaka Ohakune. or Whakapapa Village, NationalPark township is inprivate lodges, somostskiers at stay p88. also which covers WhakapapaandTuroa. See Ruapehu website (www.mtruapehu.com), conditions andcurrent liftrates attheMt accessible bya4WDroad.Youcancheck BUDGET BUDGET % Area areas andsomeniceeasyruns.The There camping are twobasicDOC HolidayPark Whakapapa You canhire gear inTaupo, NationalPark, The onlyaccommodationattheskifields ) This well-maintained and popularparkin Thiswell-maintained 0800 800754;www.edgetoedge.co.nz; SkotelAlpine , ontheeastern sideof Ruapehu, isonly Mangahuia Mangahuia . Youcanalsohire skisonthe (Map (Map p308 ; SH47;sites $20)

p Mp p308; (Map (Map p312; (Map ) Handily located on

% % Edge to 07-386 8062; 07-892 3897; Tukino Ski Ski Tukino , be- 311

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU p308 MountainRd;sites$20) ; Ohakune Both have coldwater and pit toilets. crowd, the complexhasan alpinefeel with a and hotel. Withtimbered décor andaski hotel: three-bed backpacker rooms,chalets optionsavailable hereseveral inNZ’shighest $40/55, chalets$150,hotel s&d$170; s/d Villagebackpackers 3719; www.skotel.co.nz; Whakapapa AlpineResort Skotel MIDRANGE &TOPEND Backpackers ( p315 ) in National Park. Howard’s Lodge ( p314 ) andNational Park hut tickets andGreat asdoes Walkspasses, are both accepted otherwise. Oturere. HutPass Backcountry andhuttickets huts: Ketetahi, Mangatepopo, Waihohonu and the popularfourTongariroNorthernCircuit aGreatmer season Walkspassisrequired for the hutsfor$5to$15perperson. Inthesum- $10 to$20perperson. Youcancampbeside butrange from according tohutandseason, tracks are ninehuts(Map p308 ). Pricesvary heading toWhakapapa;and 312 To SilicaRapids (2.5 hours)

WHAKAPAPA VILLAGE

All parkvisitorinformationcentres sell Scattered aroundthepark’stramping Whakapapanui

Tussock Park

Bus Track Top of the Bruce Rd Bruce the of Top NationalParkTONGARIRO &AROUND••Tongariro National Park(16km); Top Turangi (47km) To MountainAir(2km); Nature Walk

Whakapapa

Whakapapa SkiArea(5.5km) To IwikauVillage(5.5km); of the Bruce Rd Bruce the of Tennis Courts Hepi Fergusson's Holiday Park Whakapapa Tce Whakapapa Camp Store Cafe

Mp p312; (Map

Whakapapanui Stream Whakapapanui Pihanga Café Room & Tongariro, Ruapehu Bayview Chateau Fergusson 0.1miles 100m 0 0 Villas Shelter Public Whakapapa i-Site 48

Ngauruhoe Course Golf % Skotel Alpine To TaranakiFalls(2hours); Edge to , nearOhakune. pi Mangawhero Mangawhero 0800 756835,07-892 Mangatepopo (3hours)

Resort &

Pl Ridge There are

Waihohonu Hut

) (No Exit) Clearing Rd Lodge Track (2.5-3 hours); To Taranaki Tama Lakes (5.5 hours) (2 hours); (Map (Map Falls and occasionallive inwinter. entertainment foot of thevillage, garden,views hasabeer h a beer outsidein a beer the sunshine. the T-bar, acosyspotforwinter warmeror cier fare such asossobuco. Nexttothecaféis meals alongthelinesof andfan- soup,salads dinner) h the elegantàlacarte diningoptions: The Chateau hastwoin-house Eating &Drinking below. plateau of viewsof course, aft,sweeping mountains nis court,nine-holepublicgolfcourse and, boasts acinema,restaurant, barandcafé,ten- and dramaticsnooker-room styling.Thehotel itretain anopulentold-worldcharmseen Opened in1929,itsrefurbishments have grandeur.classic Europeanmansion-house Chateau harksbacktoarefined erawith mark of thevillage, themajestic 106-room d from$190,ste$250-475; Village; 832, 07-8923809;www.chateau.co.nz; Whakapapa Tongariro. Chateau Booking andcheck-in theBayview isthrough with kitchens, andsmalldecksforrelaxing on. lets are goodforfamiliesorsmallgroups, $155/175; Village;1-/2-bedroomchalets .chateau.co.nz; Whakapapa hire on site. bar.and, mostimportantly, Edge toEdge ski restaurantski shop,gamesroom,licensed www.tranzscenic.co.nz) t Whakapapa Village. Park, from where youcanget ashuttle to InterCity Getting There&Away up en route. catering, you’re though better off stocking Holiday Park, basic groceriesforself- sells ner) www.skotel.co.nz; mainsaround$15-20; AlpineResort Skotel wiches, cakes andcoffee. profferinggood outdoortables, pies,sand- h few spapool,gym, luxuriesincludingsauna, The Store,The WhakapapaCamp inWhakapapa Tongariro Bayview Chateau summer 3pm-late dinner, extended hrwinter) summer 3pm-latedinner,extended Across theroad, Fergusson Villas also has a licensed restaurant alsohasalicensed and bar. dinner) breakfast &lunch) , aconsistent performerwithgood-value Tranz Scenic

p ( ; and % ) These small, self-contained cha- small,self-contained These 09-913 6100) Pihanga Café

isacasualtearoom, with Mp p312; (Map

rains on theAuckland– ( Overlander Fergusson’s Café % Ruapehu Room buses stopatNational buses pis 0800 756835,07-8923719; (mains $14-22;

Mp p312; (Map % Tussock

lonelyplanet.com

0800 242832;www ( h % ) Theland-

(meals $12-20; (mains $25-28; breakfast &din- 0800 872467;

(mains $4-10;

% h , atthe 0800 242 lunch & Cosn ($30). Crossing tothe VillageandOhakune shuttles fromWhakapapa guided trips and guided trips gear hire. ($25).Italsooffers AlpineCrossingtransport pre-arranged Runsscheduledand .adventureheadquarters.co.nz) five-day trampsinthe five-day national park. to Alpine Crossingshuttle($25)aswellguidingone- RunsaTongariro 374, 07-8922751;www.adriftnz.co.nz) port bywayofon-busgearhire and port chocolate sales. staffwilloffer moralandphysicalsup- $49). Experienced Taupo, Turangi, andNationalPark ($14to Whakapapa CircuitandWaihohonuTraversefrom Crossing, Northern RunsshuttlestotheAlpine .tongariroexpeditions.com) ($35). day Turangi Crossingthree timesa andWhakapapa/Alpine $100 fromAuckland or Wellington. daily DecembertoApril.Itwillcostup from FridaytoSundayMay toNovember, and runsinboth directions Ohakune. Theservice Wellington linestopatNationalPark and lonelyplanet.com tain totheWhakapapa SkiArea.tain Ohakune Village, continuing furtherupthemoun- the parkisSH48, which leads toWhakapapa SH49 alongthesouth. Themainroadupinto SH46 andSH47cross thenorthernsideand totheeast,SH4west, being sandless) Rd, despiteroads: SH1(calledtheDesert Tongariro NationalPark isboundedby CAR &MOTORCYCLE VolcanicAdventures Tongariro Expeditions Tongariro Mountain Shuttle Shuttles Matai Howard’s Lodge Headquarters Adventure GuidedOutdoorAdventures Adrift ings. Pricesfollowing are return. bus inadvancetoavoid unexpected strand- winter most offer ski-field shuttles. Bookyour summer, trampingtripsare theirfocusbutin is alsoavailable fromOhakune(see p320 ). In Taupo, TurangiandNationalPark. Transport Crossing andotherkey destinationsfrom Whakapapa Village, theTongariroAlpine toThere are numerous shuttle services BUS Getting Around ing ($25),42Traverse($25)andFishers Track ($20) .co.nz) RunsshuttlesfromNationalPark totheAlpineCross- most necessary equipment. ($20) andotherlocationsbyarrangement.Italso hires out Area Ski Crossing ($25),42Traverse($30),Whakapapa fortheAlpine www.npbp.co.nz) Runs ashuttleservice ( % ( % TONGARIRO&AROUND••NationalPark ( % 06-385 9169;0800462824)Runs 07-892 2827;www.howardslodge ( 0800 117686)Runsbetween % ( % 0800 828763;www 07-386 0969;www ( % ( 07-892 2870; % 0800 462 Traverse mountain bike trail. national parktramps ( p306 ) andthe42 to otherexcitements such astheskifields, its major enticementbeingitsproximity There’s littletodoinNational Park itself, Activities dubious slightly convenience food. groceries,gear hire, anATMservices, and Alley onthemainroad.It’sgotfuel, postal ether. gotoGasoline else, Foreverything www.nationalpark.co.nz forinfoover the There’s noi-SITEinNationalPark, sovisit Information see). to hell they’re looking atit(there’s notmuch trainspotters will probably wonderwhatthe whilenon- ‘spiral’. Trainspotters willmarvel, of masterpiece theengineering thatis from NationalPark, isevidence atRaurimu, tothisday).Fivethrough kilometres north and Wellingtonin1908(thetrainchugs on Auckland Linebetween Main TrunkRailway the spike thatmarked thecompletionof the Spike, Horopito isamonumenttotheLast around here. About 20kmsouthonSH4at the Whanganui River. for otheradventures, tripson such ascanoe Ohakune andnearbyTuroa. Itisalsoabase fields, it’sonlyashort drive furtheronto ter. twoski Ifyoucan’tdecidebetween Village insummer,andtheskiarea inwin- Tongariro AlpineCrossingandWhakapapa park. the a great foractivitiesinandaround base –despite beingbut insummerit’ssleepy Village. thetownshipispacked, Inskiseason and SH47,15kmfromthehubof Whakapapa this tinyoutpostliesatthejunctionof SH4 Named fornearbyTongariro National Park, pop 460 NATIONAL PARK keep out everything of sight. both ends:don’tleave valuablesinthecar,or Theft fromparked vehicles isaproblem at National Park SH1andSH47). Rd(between and SH46fromtheendof Ketetahi Rdoff is fromtheendof Mangatepopo RdoffSH47, Ohakune. from RdleadsuptotheTuroaSkiAreaMountain And asyou’lldiscover, it’srailwaycountry Daily shuttles leave fromhere tothe For theTongariroAlpineCrossing,access

313

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU offers packages andskihire, forliftpasses Roy Turner will notonlyputyouupinitstidylodge but canoe tripsontheWhanganuiRiver (onecanoe Buddo St) to five days$130 to$890)aswell freedom 374, 07-8922751;www.adriftnz.co.nz) /full-day $195-295). trips NZ Biking explored withrelatively with littleeffort around thelittletownof Owhangocanbe Rings covering lakes thevolcanoes, and tours, rangingfrom15to35minutes, and toWhakapapa,offersturn-off three standard .mountainair.co.nz; flightsfrom$95) mountain. the sparing youthesteeper pricesfurtherup .co.nz; CarrollSt). ( see p88 hire. Gear isavailable from onskiingWhakapapaandTuroa,For details OTHER ACTIVITIES opposite ). (see only National Park Backpackers offers transport ( right ) provides transportandbike hire, while grind. gruelling the loopbacktoNationalPark viaafairly up atthenadir. Others, continue however, toget choose picked– andsomelightweights ismainlydownhill–forabout 21km itself fromNationalPark,ride. Starting thetrack vehicle ($30) ordropoffs for $50. do transfers usingyourown tothetrackstart Rd;s/d$30/55; .forest-lodge.co.nz; 12Omaki at you canstay gnarlytwo-tofour-hourtotally loop).There ofthe ridefinishes (andthestart ashorter but 24km northof NationalPark, which iswhere downs aslongyoustart from SH47. there are plentyof upsanddowns–more ing forrelatively dependablegoing,although areUnder thewheels tracks,mak- oldlogging most popularone-dayers intheNorthIsland. theTongariroForest,trail through oneof the a three- tosix-hour,45kmmountain-bike This area ismostfamousforthe MOUNTAIN BIKING 314 % The 50km forthe42Traverse A goodbase isOwhango, Adrift GuidedOutdoorAdventures Adrift AreaTongariro Forest Conservation Mountain Air From NationalPark, Howard’sLodge 07-892 2843; www.nationalpark.co.nz/eivins; SH4) 07-892 2843;www.nationalpark.co.nz/eivins; OGRR RUD • ainlPr TONGARIRO &AROUND••NationalPark sites. and ( % ( % 07-378 8349; www.quadbikingnz.co.nz; half- 07-378 8349;www.quadbikingnz.co.nz; Most accommodationintown Ski Biz Ski Fishers Track

Forest Lodge Forest 07-892 2757;www.snowzone.co.nz; Mp p308; (Map ( % 07-892 2717;www.skibiz % is anotherrevered , onSH47nearthe ( % 0800 922812;www runsguided 07-895 4773;www i

( % Lord of the 42 Traverse ) , which 0800 462 Eivins Quad , , Park Backpackers, which offers 55different they increase somewhatintheskiseason doors. Welistsummerpriceshere; bewarned spend mostof yourtime in thegreat out- asyou’llprobablyend. Thismakes sense, range accommodation,withlittleattheluxury National Park isatownof budget andmid- Sleeping hole. hobbit 255) ( Gorge. Whakapapa can findspotsnearManataupo Valley and climbs. Outdoorclimbers withtheirowngear Finlay St;adult/child$15/10; indoor p305). sider white-water raftingoutof Turangi(see hire and transfers (including jetboat). $115-220) day trips ( Whanganui River is Park. National and one-tofive-day guidedtrampsinthe a TongariroAlpineCrossingshuttle ($25) hire transfers.canoe andnecessary Italsoruns the pool table, while on chillythe pool table, the evenings with alogfire andclinks withthesoundof ciable. Alarge alpine-style lounge crackles lodge-cum-backpackers isfriendly andso- An oldiebutagoodie, thiscosywood-cabin St; dm$22,sitesunpowered/powered $24/30,d$60; here. ferries p313 andinterisland). BookIntercity buses aroundthePark (see runs shuttle services bikesand mountain forhire. Howard’salso plenty of skis,snowboards,trampinggear or fourbunks.Foroutdooraction,there are Dorms are relatively roomywithonlythree and spotless,well-equippedkitchens. TVs, loungesspa, twocomfortable withsupersize in thislarge, freshly decorated lodge with Howard’s moved on,buthe’slefthislegacy .co.nz; CarrollSt;dm$22-25,d$60-90,ste$115-145; Howard’s Lodge BUDGET essential. are andbookings when accommodationistight % % Forest Lodge runs rainydaysthere’s For those an8m-high If youlike river action,youcould alsocon- tripsontheAlso offering guidedcanoe Ski Haus Ski 07-895 5995,0800226631;www.whanganui.co.nz; 1-6 07-895 4773;www.forest-lodge.co.nz; 3-8hr$125- exploring every orcfootprintandexploring every climbing wall

( % , which also offer freedom kayak

07-892 2854; www.skihaus.co.nz; Carroll 07-892 2854;www.skihaus.co.nz; ( % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ( 07-892 2827;www.howardslodge

% Wade’s LandingOutdoors h 07-892 2870;www.npbp.co.nz; Lord of the Rings Tours Lord oftheRings 9am-8pm) at National pi pi

) ) .npbp.co.nz; Finlay St;dm$22,sites$28,d$59-77; crossers, offering accom- crossers, cosy,comfortable p .mountainheights.co.nz; dfrom$105, d B&Bfrom$140; on SH4, 2km southof NationalPark, has .adventurenationalpark.co.nz; CarrollSt;dm$25,d$60-80; .adventurenationalpark.co.nz; open. cracks cheerful meals,includingroasts,whilethebar thecasualrestaurant makesseason cheap and spa poolthawsoutfrostyskibunnies.Inhigh lonelyplanet.com Mountain Heights Lodge MIDRANGE getaways forupto four people. areCabins basic,butlarge chalets are great raftershas exposed andadefinite alpinefeel. lounge. Theblonde-woodlodge building of Ruapehu,plusthere’s abarandcomfy ($5) andrestaurant bothhave excellentviews NationalParktween andWhakapapa. Thespa Handy forskiers, thislodge isonSH47,be- .discovery.net.nz; cabins/d/chaletsfrom$40/123/149; of thatbecause just saying the beer). (andwe’respired barisahighlight not house la blackboard for$12to$16.Therailway-in- dinnerá Spiralcafédoes while thein-house Conveniences are modernandhardwearing, micro-apartments. doubles andself-contained surrounded by200beds’worthof dorms, withalaid-backand comfortable, courtyard packers onthemainroad.Insideit’s smart There’s nowayyoucanmiss thisbigflash- St;dm/d/stefrom$30/70/120; Millar -park.co.nz; around thenationalpark (see p313 ). folkalsorunshuttle services minton. These ties includeabarbecue,spaandindoorbad- forguests),butotherfacili- discounted use climbingwall(see is the8m-high opposite ; and toastypurpleradiators. Thebigattraction basic rooms,manyincludingensuite facilities of thisfamily-ownedYHA hostel, which has peckthegrounds Giant kiwiandmoastatues with en suites. and abarbecue. More expensive doublescome facilities includingrelaxing lounge, spapools $149 to$185).Forhomebodies,there are good lunch,(two nights, dinnerandtransportfor as partof agoodvalueall-inclusive package They’ll alsomake youdinner,which comes modation, transport,lunch andaT-shirt. pi Adventure Lodge&Motel Adventure Park Travellers’ Lodge Park Travellers’ Discovery Lodge Discovery National Park Backpackers ) ThisfriendlySwiss-chalet-style lodge ) Thisplacecaters toTongariroAlpine TONGARIRO&AROUND••NationalPark

Mp p308; (Map (

% ( %

(

( % % 07-892 2748;www.the % 07-892 2833;www 0800 122122;www 07-892 2991;www 07-892 2870;www pi pi pi )

) ) chicken real live kiev, localshaving afew mixedone toboot.Pooltables, grilland boozer intownandagoodold-fashioned St; mains$11-22; mains $8-28; h cèe caramel. crème á lacarte menuof evening filletsteak and lunch, coffee and cakes, plusanimpressive brunch, eggy ingly restored and nowserving alongtheline,alovelystation olddearlov- your blessingsyewhofindthislittle railway Sts; lunch$7-14,dinner$23-31; bythe quart quiet ones,andbeer or jug. tummy-filling grubfor hungry ski-folk. fired pizza,gourmetburgers andother h gear. snowboarding options, too. Thecaféalsohires skiand burgers meals.Children’s andmeatyevening year-round such standards aspasta, fortasty the placeoutonwintry Saturday nights. vegetarian dishof theday),andbandspack average pubfare (thinklambshanks and pizzas, generous burgers, andbetter-than- still goodfoodto be had. there’stions dryupalthough undoubtedly planahead:op- however, ski fieldsclose, youmeals.Whenthe which willlikely serve cluding thekitchens of accommodation, options willbeopenmostof thetime,in- whentownisfull,all In thewinter season Eating &Drinking arrangement). (by the lodge offers B&Bwithoptionaldinner rooms thatincludeafullkitchen, although doubletolargera standard self-contained bling bloomsinsummer. Roomsrange from weatherboard withbaby-blue trim,andram- 159; 37CarrollSt;d$139- 2688; www.tongarirocrossinglodge.com; hire (from$20for two hours). arrangement, andthere’s archery andbike ing facilities.Othermealsare available by andtea-mak- able ensuite roomswithTVs uptosixpeople;andB&Bincomfort- sleep motel unitsthat good-quality, self-contained o National Park Hotel Basekamp Eivin’s Café Schnapps o 4.30pm-late winteronly) dinner) pi This popular pub does excellent Thispopularpubdoes Station Tongariro CrossingLodge Tongariro ) h As pretty asapicture inwhite

( ( % % ( 4pm-late) % h 07-892 2788;Finlay St;mains$7-20; 07-892 2872;CarrollSt;mains$9-18;

( % 07-892 2844;cnrCarrollSt&SH4; 10am-11pm) 07-892 2881;cnrStation&Finlay

Basekamp does wood- does Basekamp ( A dependableoption % h 07-892 2805;61Carroll TheonlyKiwi 10am-11pm) ( % Count

07-892

315

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU www.tranzscenic.co.nz) t depart from,outsideSkiHaus onCarroll 0010; Ohakune MountainRd; 0010; Ohakune accommodation. The make bookingsforactivities, transportand .visitruapehu.com; 54 ClydeSt; The of the action. tion, knownastheJunction,is epicentre winter thenorthernendaroundtrainsta- butin mercial hubstringsalongthehighway, themselves). carrots, theynodoubtlovenies invade(although down onTuroaSkiArea andthesnowbun- springs tolife inwinter whenthesnowdrifts offering outdooradventure galore, thetown little town.Apretty retreat inthesummer to winusover tothecharms of thisripper liver improvement cleansingandeyesight p318)? text, Festival theboxedJuly’s annualCarrot (see you knowwantto),whynotvisitduring the entrancetotown.Tolearnmore (and andnowsitsatin thearea, waspreserved The world’slargest carrot,infact,grown ever on pizzas,theylitter theroadsideinseason. only dotheycreep intoburgers andpopup Not for thisisthecountry’scarrotcapital. carrotscropupallover tosee Expect Ohakune, pop 1490 OHAKUNE station. the tickets are soldfromHoward’sLodge, notat to $100fromAucklandorWellington.Train and dailyDecembertoApril.Itwillcostup from FridaytoSundayMay toNovember, runsinbothdirections Ohakune). Theservice Wellington linestopatNationalPark (and The TRAIN p314). (see Lodge ($43) take aboutfive hours. BookatHoward’s to Wellington($57)viaPalmerston North Auckland ($57)viaHamilton ($39)orsouth St dailyexceptSaturday.Journeysnorthto InterCity BUS Getting There&Away 316 Information The irony is, they needn’t even mention even The ironyis,theyneedn’t There are twoendstothetown:com- see For localshuttle services, p313 . Ruapehu i-SITE OGRR RUD • hkn TONGARIRO &AROUND••Ohakune Tranz Scenic

( % 09-913 6100)

( % Overlander rains ontheAuckland– 0800 782734,06-3858427; www DOC Field Centre DOC Field Centre h h buses arrivebuses at,and 9am-3pm) 9am-5pm Mon-Sun)

( % 0800 872467; hasmaps, ( %

06-385 can 182) including are popularandmore challenging tracks, Rd fromtheOhakuneMountain Leaving forwheelchairs andpushchairs.and suitable and theMangawhero River. Itiswellgraded hour return, 3km).Thistakes innative forest isthe Centre Centre. Field point, available fromthei-SITEorDOC and Mountain Road brochure The handyDOC to theTuroaSkiArea onMtRuapehu. Rd, which stretches 17kmfromOhakune fromtheOhakuneMountain many starting There are scenicwalksnear thetown, several WALKING cnr Ayr&Goldfinch Sts; Lodge town offer internet access,includingMatai St; Snowphone FM 96.6forupdates ontheslopesorring information foyeropen 24 hours. the TongariroNationalPark. Outfrontisan weather reports andadviceabout thissideof to Horopito. in1886,itwas builtlargely Begun coach route fromOhakune(railway station) a community-led restoration of the original the follow. to for adviceonconditionsandthebest route office shouldbecontacted the localDOC This isanunmarked andchallenging route; return), fromtheTuroaSkiArea. accessed can attempt the track. Infavourable summerconditions, you bycontinuingontheWaitongaFallsaccessed track( The RoundtheMountain p310 ) canbe are provided byMataiservices Shuttles ( p320 ). easily accessiblefromOhakune,andshuttle including theTongariroAlpineCrossing,are directions. for Surprise forestclimb through upRuapehu; and Track waterfall (39m); Tongariro’s highest with magnificentviewsof Mt Ruapehu and Activities h There’s at apost office Tramps inTongariroNationalPark ( p306 ), youcantuneintoSKI During theskiseason An easy stroll starting oppositeAn easystrollstarting theField By thetimeyouread this,thefirst stage of or youcanvisit www.mtruapehu.com. Coach RoadWalk (fourtofive hours return), agradual 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, to4pmSat). 7am-5pm Mon-Fri,

38) and ( p318) (five Map hours return). See p308 Waitonga Falls ( % Turoa 083222 083222180,Whakapapa Mangawhero Forest Walk Forest Mangawhero Crater Lake Climb Lake Crater h Ohakune Corner Ohakune willbeopen.The walkis noon-8pm). ($1)isagoodstarting (1½hours return), Take Note Several placesin Several Ohakune Walks lonelyplanet.com (

% (eight hours (eight 06-385 8229;

(5 Goldfinch Old Blyth (one Lake Lake lonelyplanet.com Giant rimu and rotara can Giant rimu androtara be seen. the Taupo blast,beingintheleaof Ruapehu. ancientforest through thatsurvived It passes viaductsinthesouthern hemisphere. curved arecomplete –these theonlytworemaining It willalsotake intheToanuiViaductwhen including thehistoricHapuawhenua Viaduct. number of features uniqueengineering alongit of adventure, romanceandmystery, witha untouched since.ever Theroadhasremainedinto disuse. largely until1909,whenSH49openedanditfellused upgraded tocarrypassengers andgoods, in harsh winter conditions.Itwas gradually hardships, livingincanvastents andworking by handpeoplewhoexperiencedgreat Wanganui (105km) To Raetihi(11km); 4 1 3 2 OHAKUNE The gently graded walk promises an airThe gently gradedwalkpromises Pipinki(37km);

Ohakune Corner...... DOC FieldCentre...... Mountain ViewMotel...... Hobbit MotorLodge...... Alpine Motel&Lodge...... Yeti Tours...... (see11) TCB...... Ski Shed...... Scenic CycleRides...... Powderhorn SnowCentre...... (see16) Canoe Safaris...... (see6) Big Carrot...... Take Note...... Ruapehu i-SITE...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION hkn or oe...... C2 Ohakune CourtMotel...... aa og H...... B3 Matai LodgeYHA...... Burns St Burns Park (35km)

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3 Rata St 25 Powderhorn Chateau...... Peaks MotorInn...... Ohakune Top10HolidayPark... Projection Room...... Ohakune Cinema...... Utopia Café...... Ohakune NewWorld...... Mountain Rocks...... Mountain Kebabs...... Matterhorn...... (see 16) Fat PigeonGardenCafe...... Cyprus Tree...... Tussock Grove...... Turoa SkiLodge...... Rimu ParkLodge...... ENTERTAINMENT EATING Powderkeg...... (see 16) 26 23 B 20 Old Station Rd 6 4

7 Tay St Tay 9 2

8 Ayr St Ayr 49 Goldfinch St 5 Arawa St

8887; www.skished.com; 71ClydeSt) 8887; www.skished.com; pools (two hours, adult/child $50/40), andthe Rd, 17kmdownhill stoppingatwaterfalls and 6 Tay St) Scenic CycleRides MOUNTAIN BIKING skiing andsnowboarding, see p88 . 25AyrSt). 8433; www.tcbskiandboard.co.nz; Tce) cnr ThamesSt&Mangawhero Snow Centre ous placesaroundtown,including ski fields,withequipmentavailable fromvari- arelook after them.Liftpasses available atthe fills upwith to skiers, snowboarders, andstaff Ohakune isallabuzz inwinter whenthetown SKIING &SNOWBOARDING Rd Rangataua Miro St 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14

10 runs tours ontheOhakune Mountain Dr Turoa D1 B3 B4 B4 B4 B3 D1 B3 C4 D1 D1 D1 C2 A4

Karo St 13 19

Old Station Rd Station Old ( % ( 15

% 0 0

06-385 8888; www.powderhorn.co.nz; 06-385 8888;www.powderhorn.co.nz; Mangawhero Shannon St Shannon 021 607294;www.sceniccycles.co.nz;

Turoa SkiArea(17km) Tainui St St Lee Mangawhero River Mountain Rd;

Tce To Ohakune ;

and Ski Shed Ski Foyle St Foyle

Waiouru (27km) Lake Rotokura(11km); Horsetrekking (8km); To RuapehuHomestead Tyne

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27 Thames Thames

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317 17

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU boig midweek. booking Good savings canbemadeonwinter rates by pay upto50%more inwinter and bookahead. are forsummer(October toMarch); expectto nearSH49.Thepriceslisted heretown, sostay In summertheJunctionisabitof aghost Sleeping try trailswithviewsof the mountain. longer ridesalongtheriver andonback-coun- trekshorse arounditspaddocks,aswell adult$30-90,child $25-75) rides 45min-3hr eastofOhakune; pehuhomestead.co.nz; Rangataua, Horsetrekking Homestead Five minutes outof Okahune is HORSETREKKING 2-5 dayfreedom hire $185-250). St;guidedtours2-6days$375-855, www.canoe.co.nz; 1Rata $850), or on theMohaka (twotofourdays,$395 $185-250) Tay St;guidedtours2-6days$375-855, 2-5dayfreedom hire ( ing tripsfromOhakunewith You canalsotake WhanganuiRiver kayak- CANOEING on national-parkwalkingtrails is illegal. bikemountain $10/15perhour).Note: cycling gear supplied.Italsohires outbikes (road/ adult/child $60/50),withallnecessary total, Ruatiti downhill,19kmdownhill(three hours 318 % crop byerecting the ship saluted thetown’sbiggestvegetable Ohakune meanscarrots. In1984thetown- No matter whoyouaskinNZ,thename CARROT CRAZY root vegetable. i-SITE formore detailsoncelebrationsofthe Island’scarrots. Checkwiththeof theNorth inthetownthatproducestwo-thirds party moreattracts fora than5000visitorskeen competition. The festival, usuallyheldinJuly, orange aswelltheoddcarrot-throwing with MardiGrasandlotsofdressing upin hand andexplosives! by Chinesesettlers,whocleared landby first growninthearea duringthe1920s most hugged‘BigThings’. Carrots were Rd) 06-385 9237,0800272335;www.canoesafaris.co.nz; 6 OGRR RUD • hkn TONGARIRO &AROUND••Ohakune Today the , whichquicklybecameoneofNZ’s , which also runsguidedraftingtrips Yeti Tours Carrot Festival

( % Big Carrot

06-385 8197,0800322388; ( , which runsguided % 06-385 8799;www.rua iscelebrated Canoe Safaris Safaris Canoe (Rangataua (Rangataua Ruapehu in motor-lodgey roomsandafour-bedroom the middleof town,theAlpineoffers 40beds bit.co.nz; cnrGoldfinch&WyeSts;dm/d/ffrom$22/90/140; several self-catering options.Niceextrasin- self-catering several river withspaciouscommunalfacilitiesand $26/60; Sts;dm/dfromwww.matailodge.co.nz; cnrClyde&Rata $26/95; 5Moore St;sites$34,cabins/unitsfrom www.ohakune.net.nz; about. and around scene andrunareliable shuttleservice folk whoare fullyplugged intothemountain for breakfast and dinner. restaurantgroups. Thein-house isopendaily nextdoor,greattownhouse forfamiliesor St;dm/dfrom$25/95; motel.co.nz; 7Miro bonus. Children’s play area too. suites. hottubisareal Thebush-setting a backpacker wing,motel unitsandfancier the townandJunction,Hobbithas p families. budget-conscious and a1934traincarriage, popularwith plus there are chalets andmotel-style units The pinetree lodge upto10($160), sleeps budget.Junction, withanoptionforevery This massive, tothe ramblingplaceisclose $120; St;dm/dfrom$20/80,carriage .co.nz; 27Rimu Park Lodge Rimu BUDGET action. Rooms range doublesto from standard skiers, inthethickof beingright the Junction’s .co.nz; 10ThamesSt; d$85; lawn. nice groups uptofive, some balconyviewsanda withafewbasic butpleasant larger roomsfor and alittlebitfurthertotheJunction, thisis A cheap motel five minutes’ walkfromtown 101GoldfinchSt;s/d/f$75/90/90; courtmotel.co.nz; Motel Court Ohakune MIDRANGE the doorstep. Clean,quietand good value. facilities(includingspa)on other necessary roomsarecomfortable allensuite, withall An up-and-comerownedbyenthusiasts.The www.mountain-viewmotel.co.nz; 2Moore St;d$60-90; area and spa bath. field,barbecue clude playground,petanque Turoa Ski Lodge Turoa Ski o Top10HolidayPark Ohakune LodgeYHA Matai Lodge Alpine Motel Hobbit MotorLodge ) A leafy and quiet option halfway between Aleafyandquietoptionhalfwaybetween pi pi Mountain View Motel Mountain View ) ) A pleasant holidayparkbythe Apleasant Adependablehostel runby Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( % (

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% p ( 06-385 8274;www.turoaskilodge ( % % 06-385 9023;www.rimupark 0800 462824,06-3859169; Thisisagreat spotfor 06-385 8183;www.ohakune ) 06-385 8248;www.the-hob 06-385 8758;www.alpine

( % ( % p 0800 825825; 06-385 8675; Right in Right ) pi p p )

) ) $180/750; Tce;ste/apt derhorn.co.nz; cnrThamesSt&Mangawhero This quadrangularmodernmotel offers spar- .co.nz; Tce&ShannonSt;dfrom$90; cnrMangawhero open. always thelodge isnot ahead inthesummerseason: three-bedroom unitswithfullkitchens. Ring lonelyplanet.com are available tosoakup the alcohol. wiches, homemadeburgers andgreat cakes hole thananeatery. decentsand- However, cabin-like spacethatfeels more like awatering Sts; mains$10-27; tion andfresh home-made counter food. bacon andbanana,plusagoodveggie selec- and breakfast suchBenedict staples aseggs and visitors alike, withgoodreason. Great and perennially populardestinationforlocals mains $10-18; some great kebabs. olives are rolledintothemixhere tomake hummus,sproutsor Camembert, However, the basiclamb,chicken orfelafel varieties. winter only) $9-11; 29ClydeSt;kebabs kebabs.com; the ski season. Many hotels opentheirrestaurants during après-ski crowd,butlittleisopeninsummer. The Junctionisactive duringwinter withthe Eating (below). Powderkeg Matterhornelry inthepopularinhouse and recover fromtheslopesbefore enjoyingrev- grotto-like indoorpoolisarelaxing wayto woody interiors rafters. andexposed The a traditionalSwiss-chalet-style feel with thePowderhornhas during theskiseason, ing reputation asthehubof much activity Chateau Powderhorn TOP END from some rooms. tennis viewssauna, courts,andmountain woods approach tofacilities,withSkyTV, cabins, buttheowners don’thave aback- apartments are uptolooklike set log-style St;dfrom$130; .co.nz; 3Karo outdoor spa and sauna. Communal facilitiesincludebasicgym,large spaciousroomswithgoodbathrooms. tan, Peaks MotorInn Mountain Rocks o Tussock Grove Mountain Kebabs pis Anyoldkebabery cancome upwith Utopia Café Utopia h breakfast &lunch) h

TONGARIRO&AROUND••Ohakune ( ( % %

breakfast, lunch&dinner) )

( ( Enjoyingalong-stand- % % 06-385 8771;www.tussockgrove

07-385 9350;cnrClyde&Goldfinch

( ( % p % 06-385 9144;www.thepeaks 06-385 9047;www.mountain These small,swanky These ) 06-385 8888;www.pow 06-385 9120;47ClydeSt; Afunky,upbeat h lunch &dinner A log- pi

) has occasionalfilmsanddancing to DJs. $20-27; are twolegendary aprésskihang-outs. te station. the tickets are soldattheRuapehui-SITE, notat to $100fromAuckland orWellington.Train and dailyDecember toApril.Itwillcostup from FridaytoSunday May to November, runsinbothdirectionsPark). Theservice Wellington linestopatOhakune(and National www.tranzscenic.co.nz) t route; thebusstopisopposite the i-SITE. on theirAuckland/Taumarunui/Wellington InterCity Getting There&Away release films. adult $10) h and regular dancing on the tables. Powderhorn Chateau, withbandsinwinter Tce) cnr ThamesSt&Mangawhero summer. in areOhakune nights lively inwinter, quiet Entertainment heading forNationalPark or Whakapapa. which isthelastchance tostockupbefore World balcony. sunny as relaxed butchic álacarte dining.Great andsophisticatedcocktails barsnacksaswell 36; Upstairs istheswankier offering pizzas,burgers andotherbarfare. mains $10-32; Tce; www.powderhorn.co.nz; cnrThamesSt&Mangawhero Downstairs isthe one of thetown’shighlights for dinner. inachic yetrelaxed space.served Definitely andantipasto– food–pizza,pasta, Italian a walkupthehill. Terrific garden. great yourdayorrecharge placetostart after inabeautifulcottage andgardens,thisisa Set wiches, home-madecakes andexcellentcoffee. daily winter) mains $15-28; The Cinema Ohakune Room Projection Powderkeg Inside thePowderhornChateau ( left ) Self-caterers shouldheadfor Self-caterers Cyprus Tree h 6pm-late Wed-Sunwinter) Fat Café PigeonGarden

h ( lunch &dinnerwinterpeaksummer) % Thissmallcinemashows allthenew- Tranz Scenic

( breakfast, lunch&dinnerFri-Sun) % Interesting breakfasts, sand- tasty 06-385 8587;14GoldfinchSt; h h 09-913 6100)

( ( % % 9am-4pm Sat&Sunsummer,7am-11pm dinner summer,lunch&winter) 06-385 8888;www.powderhorn.co.nz; 06-385 8857;19aGoldfinchSt;mains (

rains ontheAuckland– ( Overlander Powderkeg % 06-385 8488;17GoldfinchStreet; Thisfunkylittlespot 06-385 8664;4ThamesSt; serve Ohakunedaily serve ( %

Thepartybarof the Matterhorn 06-385 9423;2TyneSt;

( ( % % Ohakune New Ohakune h 0800 872467; Distinctly 06-385 8888; (mains$26- serving 8am-8pm) 319

CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO TAUPO & THE CENTRAL PLATEAU (eun $30). (return AlpineCrossing volcanic plateauincludingtotheTongariro Turoa shuttle(return $20)anddropoffs allaroundthe ski the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake andarefuellingbase stopforthe56km-long of Ohakune, Waiouru isprimarilyanarmy At thejunctionof SH1andSH49,27kmeast pop 2600 WAIOURU and ducks. paradise treesbeech andwaterfowl such asdabchicks utes; longer ifyoulinger toadmire theancient The round-trip ing, fishing andswimming are prohibited. is Rotokura, wet andperfect forpicnicking.Thefurthest lakes here. Thefirst actuallyquite isDryLake, rioi east of Ohakune,atKarioi, SH49( justoff is14kmsouth- Rotokura EcologicalReserve ROTOKURA LAKE Snow Express Shuttles Matai national park walks. including toandfromtheskifields aroundthearea operators runservices Several Getting Around 320 transport transport to Turoa. means‘placestolinger’). There are two OGRR RUD • aeRtkr Rotokura TONGARIRO &AROUND••Lake ( % tapu ( % 06-385 4022; return $15) Offers 06-385 4022;return $15) Offers walk 06-385 9169;0800462824)Runs (sacred) toMaori, soeat- willtake you45min- ka- world’s highest world’s highest swing. tandem bridgehighest bungy(80m)orswingonthe ofat speeds upto 160km/h, dive fromNZ’s flying-foxcan take a1km,170m-high ride 20km southeast,where adrenaline-junkies yon.co.nz; flyingfox/bungy/swing/combo$99/125/110/280) for Weekend (October).Itisalsotheaccesspoint an annual of theWorld,andholdsthe GumbootCapital The townhasthedubiousdistinctionof being to Taihape, 20kmsouthof Waiouru,isamust. If youhave apenchant forgumboots,avisit pop 1810 TAIHAPE collections. other plays of arms,uniforms,memorabilia and Its moving storiesare dis- welltoldthrough paigns, fromcolonialtimestothepresent. tory of theNZarmyanditsvariouscam- $10/7; ( concrete castle,isthe in winter due to snow. swept andinteresting. Theroadoften closes itisinfactmerelyisn’t actuallyadesert, wind- Desert RdleadingtoTurangi.Rangipo Desert % At thesouthendof thetownshipinalarge, Gravity Canyon 06-387 6911;www.armymuseum.co.nz; adult/child h 9am-4.30pm) gumboot-throwing festival gumboot-throwing

( , which preserves thehis- , which preserves % 06-387 6911;www.gravitycan Army Museum Waiouru Army Museum lonelyplanet.com on Labour onLabour ,

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CENTRAL PLATEAU PLATEAU CENTRAL TAUPO & THE THE & TAUPO