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In Pursuit of Virginia's Terroir

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In Pursuit of Virginia's Terroir GRAPE PRESS Summer 2015 The Quarterly Newsletter of the VIRGINIA VINEYARDS ASSOCIATION Vol. 31 No. 2 INSIDE President’s Corner Improving Yields and Quality By Tom Kelly Kelly Vineyard Services Regional Reports ecalling the weather over Winter injury takes a the months since my last toll, but it may not be Rcolumn, it seems as if we the only cause of vine missed spring altogether. Here in death. the Northern Piedmont, blustery PAGES 4-5 days through the early part of Jim Law May made it feel as if winter Cabernet Sauvignon, about to be planted at Linden’s Hardscrabble Vineyard, would never end. However, that Spray Drift loves rocks and slopes, which mean less soil and less water retention. was quickly followed by hot The spread of RoundUp humid days that made late May Ready crops poses feel more like early July! special concerns for With the exception of cloudy vineyards. See our four- In Pursuit of and rainy days over the first step look at dealing with spray drift. week of June, rainfall has been PAGE 8 light. Virginia’s Terroir But humid and cool nights have kept disease pressure high, Pre-Harvest By Jim Law rather than winegrowing. This with perfect conditions for Black Linden Vineyards technical approach precludes us Rot and Downey Mildew to gain Virginia Tech studies from gathering a critical mass of the effect of on-the-vine a foothold in the vineyard. n 1981, after a few years’ experience and knowledge in the Timely canopy management dehydration on wine experience working in vineyard to take us to the next quality. and smart spraying are our PAGE 12 vineyards and wineries, I had quality level. best tools to ward off infection two job offers. One was in during times like this, and I’ve IOregon and the other in Virginia. Wines of Effort vs. Wines seen little in the way of disease Vineyard Leasing I chose Virginia. of Place (Terroir) in the vineyards I’ve visited. Second in a series: Discovering the potential of a A wine of effort expresses a Over these past few days in mid- Medium-term leases new viticultural region was too certain house style or brand that June, however, I’ve witnessed and when they may exciting an opportunity to pass up. can change according to consumer some disappointing fruit set as make sense. In the 1970’s, I lived, studied and preference. These wines tend a result of the extended rainy PAGE 14 worked in Europe and Africa and to be correct, serviceable and period during bloom and a few was drawn to regional distinctions soulless. Effort is made in the occurrences of early Botrytis of wine and food. Suddenly, I cellar to correct shortcomings in infection. Land Use Tax found myself in a position to the harvested grapes. One bright spot during that If you haven’t become influence the identity of a new These wines are made by rainy first week of June was this familiar with the region. technical winemakers who depend year’s VVA Summer Technical potential benefits of the I am just as excited now as I on manipulative techniques and Meeting, held at Ingleside land use tax, it could be was then. Wines produced across additions (acid, tannins, oak Vineyards in Oak Grove, Va. costing you money. the Commonwealth are very good, products, colorants). While rain kept us inside most PAGE 16 but the emphasis continues to be on manipulative winemaking See TERROIR on page 7 See PRESIDENT on page 2 www.virginiavineyardsassociation.com PRESIDENT’S CORNER (cont.) VVA BOARD PRESIDENT from page 1 of a better way to spend a rainy summer 2015 day! of the day, our host, Doug Flemer, was able Another noteworthy event of late is the President to provide a short vineyard tour. launch of the VVA’s new website. While Tom Kelly As a continuation of the vineyard visually very similar to the old site, the renovation topic from new site incorporates many [email protected] the most recent Winter new features. Technical Meeting, Doug Of particular interest is Vice President focused his talk on the many the new “Members Only” Jim Benefiel renovations he’s been putting area. Here, VVA members [email protected] his vineyard through. Many will find information and of the vineyards at Ingleside features available only to are original plantings from them, such as the new forum Treasurer 30-plus years ago, and while boards where members can Kay Thompson Doug has had his challenges ask questions and exchange [email protected] over the years, the vineyards ideas on a variety of pre- we saw during our tour determined topics relevant to Secretary looked to be healthy and grape growers throughout the Aimee Henkle quite vigorous – perhaps a Mid-Atlantic, or, start a thread bit more vigorous than he’d of their own! Please visit the [email protected] like, but still, a testament to new website and explore the good management practices TOM KELLY new features available under Advisor over the years by a veteran your member account. Dr. Tony K. Wolf grower. If you have not yet received instructions [email protected] Thanks to Doug and his staff for their on how to create your new account, contact gracious hospitality! Tracy Kirkman at VaVineyardsAssoc@ Another great topic at the meeting was gmail.com and get signed in today! Business Manager a discussion by Mark Hollingsworth of Finally, I would like to return to the Tracy Kirkman Dog and Oyster Vineyard who showcased discussion I’ve begun regarding some [email protected] several tools for increasing productivity ways that vineyard economics might be in the vineyard in a segment called Semi- improved. Thus far, I’ve covered the Grape Press Editors/Production Automation for the Small Grower. topics of economies of scale (Winter 2014 Mark showcased three handheld issue), which involves advantages growers Bob Garsson machines that in some cases can reduce can realize through mechanization, bulk [email protected] vineyard labor by as much as 50 percent purchasing, etc. on larger sites. Chris Garsson depending on the task and vine density I’ve also discussed the merits of [email protected] in a given vineyard. He gave an in-field incorporating at least some hybrid varieties demonstration of a rotary de-suckering into a well-diversified vineyard enterprise tool and discussed the benefits of electrical (Spring 2015 issue). Now, I’d like to pruners and tying tools. focus a bit on the yield component of our VVA Mailing Address I hope to have Mark back for our next business. P.O. Box 168 winter meeting in addition to others to I have many times heard the comment Waterford, Va. 20197 expand upon this exciting topic. that we’ve got to find a way to increase [email protected] Tony Wolf and his team from Virginia yields as a way to improve the bottom line Cooperative Extension were on hand to for Virginia growers. My knee-jerk reaction provide presentations including a timely to this comment has always been that we talk by Cain Hickey on the effects of leaf have no way of magically causing the vine Special thanks to: removal and seasonal updates by Tony and to produce more fruit. Paul Anctil, Jim Benefiel, Mizuho Nita. But this is only partly true. The factors Katie Hellebush, Jim Law, Tremain Hatch, also from Tony’s office, that determine the maximum fruit load of reviewed a vineyard financial calculation an individual vine are many and complex, Bill Robson, Dean Triplett. Michael tool that he has been developing. In ranging from a variety of site and soil Weaver, Bruce Zoecklein addition, Paul Morgan of Ausley and characteristics and seasonal climatic Associates made a presentation on the use conditions to the varieties and clones of drone imagery in the vineyard. selected for that site. Following the technical meeting was, of And while there may be ways (that I course, our Annual Summer Social event will not mention here) of forcing a vine where we sampled Ingleside wines in their into higher yields by increasing berry barrel room. Dinner was a delicious “low size and weight, these methods will likely country boil” which was paired with several have detrimental effects on fruit and wine selections of Virginia fine wines provided quality. They may also adversely affect the by our members. long-term viability of the vine while at the All in all, another great technical meeting provided by the VVA and VCE. I can’t think See PRESIDENT on page 3 2 PRESIDENT’S REPORT (cont.) PRESIDENT from page 2 there simply isn’t enough leaf area to fully increased cost of a tractor, as row widths ripen it; too little, and the canopy will grow this narrow will require specialized narrow same time increasing management costs of too vigorously and become difficult and equipment to fit through them. the vineyard. expensive to manage. Of course, there are Unless you can spread this cost out over As I’ve said in the past, many winemakers site and seasonal variables to consider such a rather large planting, or you are planning have some fairly rigid opinions about yields as the availability of light, heat and water, a vineyard small enough that you can work in relation to fruit quality. These views are but you get the idea. it with a compact tractor or an ATV, this often expressed (incorrectly in my opinion) Understanding all that, there are still a increased investment may take many years in terms of tons per acre. A somewhat more couple ways to improve yields when looked to justify.
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