Food Stops: BEST CHOMPS IN BANGALORE MagazineExplore contemporary India & South Asia THAILAND edition MARCH 2014

plus Wellness the New High: Ayurveda Science & Scenic Setting SOUTH ASIA SELECT Safari in Style Bangladesh with Ratna Singh Hitting the Heritage Voluntourism: Feel Good Travel & Nature in India Tr ails

The Palace on Wheels: Royal Journey to Rajasthan’s Timeless Treasures CKS_Embassy_of_India_AW150114.pdf 1 1/15/14 3:35 PM

Explore contemporary India & South Asia

THAILAND EDITION 22

04 Editor’s Note 05 Contributor’s Page Cover STORY 06 Voluntourism: Feel Good Travel in India Get involved! Satisfying and fulfilling humanitarian holiday experiences FEATURES 32 Where to Go for Summer Famous Indian astrologer, Ranjana Rana consults the stars for a perfect summer holiday BLOGGERS’ TALES

19 venkat Ganesh: Western Ghats 26 HRH Princess Maha Chakri - Travelling South visits Nalanda, Bodh Gaya 20 Alyx Kottmeier: How It is Hip and Kohima to be in India 29 The Golden Temple Beckons: 21 Arti: Kerala Temple Visits Journey to the sikh Heartlands

FACEs & places CALENDAR 22 urvashi Kaur: 31 Travel Trade Fairs & Events Amazing Arunachal The fashion designer’s home and favourite holiday destination

luXE LIFE 16 safari in Style with Ratna Singh She also shows how to play one’s part in wildlife conservation

DESTINATION 10 The Palace on Wheels: Royal Journey to Rajasthan’s Timeless Treasures Travel by night and explore 38 26 by day

2 3 16 24

FOOD STOPS 24 The Best Chomps in Bangalore 32 From fine dining to queuing up for food in the streets! WELLNESS & SPA 34 soukya in the Spotlight Again Eastern-Western medicines meet 36 Wellness: the New High The science and scenic setting of Ayurveda

shopping 14 India: Endless Allurements for Retail Therapy Some recommended buys throughout India

IN SEARCH OF... 38 ladakh - Where the Earth Meets the Sky 42 Natural Wonders

South Asia Select 44 Bangladesh - Hitting the Heritage & Nature Trails Heritage and nature highlights

The Accidental Tourist 48 No Strangers in Chennai Middle-eastern connections in Tamil Nadu

SUBSCRIPTIONS IN Magazine is available on the newsstands as well as by subscription. For more information, please contact Circulation Department Tel: (65) 6735 2972 or 34 email: [email protected]

2 3 Editor’s Note

FEEL GOOD TRAVEL,

ANY VOLUNTEER? Editorial Travel, interact and contribute at the same time. Don’t just Team watch the scenery pass by— be part of the action. Best of all, make a real difference in others’ lives or do something for a PUBLISHER worthy cause. That’s the ‘pay off’ for a relatively new brand of & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Nomita Dhar travel experience called Volunteer Tourism. Where and how to start? Ranee Sahaney gives some ideas and insights into this EDITORIAL worthwhile area in her feature on ‘Voluntourism: Feel-Good Syed Jaafar Alkaff Travel in India.’ Kristian Goodchild Arjun Dhar Shopping has always been one of the great draws for the sub-continent. From clothes, crafts to jewellery – we give a CONTRIBUTORS lightning tour of the best places to go in India and what are Ranee Sahaney the specialities offered. The range and variety is perfect for Ranjana Rana Shashi Sunny retail therapy of any intensity which pleases one’s fancy. Real spa and health therapy can be experienced in Bangalore’s CREATIVE PROJECT MANAGER Dr Mathai’s International Holistic Health Centre, which Valerius Reza Boenawan organised a seminar late last year on the best of Eastern- Western medicine. The holistic sciences of the centre received ADVERTISING & MARKETING a ringing endorsement from no less than Prince Charles, the Jamie Ho Prince of Wales who had visited India with the Duchess of The story of Cornwall, Camilla Parker Bowles. COVER PHOTO the Maharaja Royalty is revisited again in this issue as we feature Shutterstock Rajasthan. We were only able to touch briefly on some of the PRINTING is colourfully stately forts in the last issue. The story of the Maharaja is IMAGE Printing Pte Ltd told through colourfully told through the palaces of Udaipur –the Venice of the palaces the East— and other facets such as their leisure spaces such as the fabulous game park— Ranthambore National Park, MCI (P)170/06/2013 are explored. We also continue with the second part of the © Copyright 2014 by Sun Media Pte Ltd. All materials of Udaipur in this publication are strictly copyrighted and all rights –the Venice Bangalore story, started last issue, with the ‘must go to eat reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced places’ in the IT city, in our Food Stops column. in whole or in part without prior written permission of the copyright holder All facts are correct at the time of of the East Bangladesh is our South Asia Select destination with good publication. While every effort has been made to ensure reason. Throughout all that has happened domestically, the the information that appears in this publication is correct - and other at the time of production, changes might occur and Sun country’s economy enters 2014 booming with strong exports— Media Pte Ltd shall not be liable for any errors, omissions facets like or inaccuracies that occur. especially from its garment industry. One effect of this growth the National is the opening of new five-star hotel properties in the gateway cities of Dhaka and Chittagong. The country’s hinterlands Park of A publication of are also primed for exploration of its natural touristic assets. Ranthambore Biman, the national air carrier is ready to tap tourist growth are explored with new aircraft and routes. This is definitely a destination to study and look out for in the present and very near future.

20 Kramat Lane #01-02 United House Singapore 228773 Nomita Dhar Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Tel: (65) 6735 2972 / 1907, 2986 Fax: (65) 6735 3114 E-mail: [email protected] 4 Web: www.sunmediaonline.com 5 Contributors words

KRISTIAN GOODchild Ranee Sahaney Ranjana Rana

A Journalism Ranee Sahaney has Ranjana Rana Graduate of the been Consulting ties astrology London College of Editor for 12 years and travel Communications, to the Outlook together in Kristian brings Traveller group of this issue. Her copy-writing, proof- publications and own journey reading, editing and contributed to into astrology reporting élan to Discover India, BBC began when Sun Media’s range of Good Food Guide she was 12, publications. He has and others. In the after reading a passion for news past 25 years, her books on and travel and has features have been palmistry. travelled extensively throughout Asia as published widely. To her credit are a Her successful predictions on well as the world in general> he is able to lavish coffee table book, Adventure Sites reading the palms of friends and give a broad range of perspectives to his in the World; A GOI Tourist Department family strengthened her desire writing. A recent arrival to Singapore, he publication, A Travellers’ Companion: to go deeper PHD in Astrology now lives here with his Singaporean wife of India’s North East; and others. She has and she also studied Numerology, one year and enjoys live music, fine wine, also worked as Editorial Co-ordinator for Vastu and Fengshui. A Reiki politics and obscure documentaries. Incredible India magazine. Grandmaster and Pranic Healing teacher, Ranjana also reads Tarot Cards. In addition to this she is SHASHI SUNNY also a past-life regression therapist and innerchild and breathwork Shashi has written for many leading publications such as PEOPLE, facilitator. Ranjana travels a lot as a Society, Savvy and Stardust interviewing celebrities, achievers and consultant in her area of expertise newsmakers. She has over 25 years of experience in journalism and also participates in many TV covering a wide range of fields such as glamour industry, fashion, shows. politics, business, films, publishing A post graduate in English Literature from Lady Shri Ram College New Delhi, Shashi has also taught English Literature at Delhi University. RATNA SINGH

PICTURES She is the right person, in the right Sugato Mukherjee place, at the right time. A naturalist Sugato grew up in the transitional period of with Taj Safaris, the 90s when the multidimensional layers her work brings of India became more apparent than ever. her close to nature Based in Calcutta, he often takes time off his where she is most professional schedule to lyrically document comfortable. those visual textures, both on and off the beaten She sometimes track. He has contributed to a host of national exchange her and international publications including The work binoculars with a camera and is Globe and Mail, Al Jazeera, Roads & Kingdoms, perfectly placed to capture the beauty of Outlook Traveller and Jet Wings with photo the national parks and tiger reserves in essays, travel articles and images. His coffee Madhya Pradesh. She says in her work, table book An Antique Land: A Visual Memoir of “You rely on your senses to interpret the Ladakh has recently been published by Alchemy Publishers, New Delhi and has been jungle for the visitor” and shares some critically acclaimed widely. Email: [email protected] awesome sights with our readers.

4 5 Cover Feature Voluntourism

(Above) Australian GTEF volunteers at Neora

FEEL GOOD

•IN INDIA• Travelby Ranee Sahaney There’s a host of enticing opportunities to do good and feel good for a satisfying humanitarian holiday experience keen eye, a in the sidelining of pattachitra Richer steady hand and craft, leaving its community Emotional Experience centuries-old impoverished and demoralized. Volunteer tourism is all about traditions are The tide is turning slowly in travellers who wish to combine both guiding the old favour of craft villages such as leisure and some form of voluntary manA as he painstakingly paints Raghurajpur all over India. Well work as a measure of giving back his newest creation on a dried not just artisan communities, to the community/environment, in palm leaf (patta). Pattachitra, but many others as well who are order to come away with a richer one of India’s most unique in dire need of sustenance and experience of the people, places forms of painting, traditionally economic empowerment. There’s a and cultures they encounter on associated with rituals of the whole new range of initiatives and their travels. Raghurajpur is now a temples in Odisha, in particular, activities getting closely associated heritage village and an iconic symbol the famous Rath Yatra, since with this. A relatively new niche of what this movement can achieve. the 5th century, used to be the in India’s tourism arena, volunteer Voluntourists range from students lifeblood of the artisan village of tourism or voluntourism as it is in their 20s to senior citizens pushing Raghurajpur, located near Puri. sometimes called, is getting serious 70, who seek opportunities to travel Fortunes changed as, over time, attention by motivated players in to, learn from and contribute to, the loss of patronage resulted the industry. amongst the more needy segments

6 7 of society mostly in Asia, Africa and the Latin countries. Travelers looking to make a difference in the lives of the underprivileged, or, the conditions of endangered environs, while still providing a tourist experience, may also find some truly unique lesser-travelled tourist routes along the way. Rural-tribal pockets of poverty While India’s urban landscape features a plethora of modern allurements as a holiday destination there are vast swathes of rural and tribal pockets in India which are marked by poverty and poor Australian GTEF Volunteers Chuikhim Gate development though the natural Painterly setting and cultural richness may Raghurajpur offer a host of allurements for the It has been a host of champions A relatively holidaymaker. Scattered across the of the revivalist movement of India’s country are a range of inspiring and dying crafts that have also impacted new niche popular options for a leisure-cum- on the resurgence of pattachitra at learning volunteering holiday. Raghurajpur. Now this contained in India’s It’s not that India has lacked an community rejoices in its status as active response from voluntary a protected heritage village with tourism workers from both home and the the nurturing of this vibrant art international community for scores form and its artisans as an ongoing of projects and causes scattered process even today. arena, along the length and breadth Painterly artifacts of pattachitra, of the country, but a trend has featuring the iconic themes of volunteer begun where travelers now want deities, mythological scenes and to use a vacation also as a tool motifs from nature have now found tourism or for doing some meaningful social a flourishing export market. Many service amongst the communities are sought-out collectors’ items. voluntourism and environs they visit, to Spurred on by the winds of change gather together more fulfilling Grassroute Journeys, the Odisha- life experiences. If its childcare based travel agency, offers travellers as it is or community development, a range of activities which provide sponsoring an underprivileged purpose-defined holidays in places sometimes child to empowering women, like Raghurajpur where tourists not health work or husbandry, culture only enjoy the cultural delights of called, or nature heritage, revival of lost village India but also engage with arts and crafts, or environmental the community and help promote is getting programmes, tribal welfare or the works of these gifted craftsmen. infrastructure development that Raghurajpur is also famed for interest you…there’s a wide spectrum its woodcarving, papier mache, serious of opportunities available all over sculptures and stone carving. The the land… Travel agents are now projects the agency supports are attention catering to this emerging market of not tourist initiatives, but seek to the volunteer-focused traveler with use tourism for funding, support by motivated hands-on information, connectivity and community interaction. and logistics and teaming up with It also facilitates volunteering players in reliable NGOs and other non-profit opportunities in agriculture organization to volunteer and and organic farming, vocational contribute to the region of their visit. training for women, teaching the industry

6 7 Cover Feature

English in tribal schools. Some (R.O.S.E.) is a grassroots non-profit of Grassroutes’ other thrilling group located in the remote contributions to Odisha’s natural village Kanda, near Bageshwar. heritage (through volunteer This dispersed settlement cluster tourism) are eco-centric, of about 30 villages, with almost sustainable tourism trips in holiday 50 per cent of the populace living destinations such as Chilika Lake, below the poverty line, offers Bhitarkanika and the beach resorts. travelers a wondrous exposure For more information visit to one of Kumaon’s prettiest www.grassroutesjourneys.com regions while at the same time music) and the folk group Vayali creating opportunities for social Heritage by the Nila in Arangottukkara , a platform work. Tourists get to stay with the In Kerala travelers have a unique preserving many lost folk art hospitable Verma family, enjoy opportunity to participate in forms and a repository of one of first-hand cultural experiences enjoying a tourism experience of the largest digital archives of folk with the locals and also the highest order with the River music and local knowledge from immerse themselves in the rural Nila project set up by The Blue the three districts of Malappuram, development activities of R.O.S.E./ Yonder involving the revival of Thrissur and Palakkad. JPGU. For more information: the dying River Nila. Not only Visitors can enjoy workshops www.rosekandahomestay.com do tourists contribute to the by the potters who have received ongoing process of the Nila’s a new life with the revival of the Serene Spiti resurgence, they can also enjoy a river community. Not only has A treasure trove of memorable host of thrilling experiences of the the project helped preserve their experiences awaits visitors in Nila’s communities, its culture, its traditional skills it has also opened the remote moonscape land of heritage, lifestyle and livelihood up a window for a new market for Himachal Pradesh’s Spiti Valley which have got a new lease of life their products. The Blue Yonder with its stark mountains, wind- with its revival. also encourages voluntary work at sculpted vistas and ancient Tourism plays a supplementary the Institute of Palliative Medicine Buddhist monasteries filled with role as a source of income for the (IPM). For more information: vibrant murals and antiquities. communities living along the river www.blog.theblueyonder.com Critical to the preservation of this which tends to attract tourists awesome natural and cultural who are genuinely interested Rosy Kanda heritage is the need for setting in absorbing the dynamics of Homestay in place many more processes this hitherto off- the- beaten In the pristine environs of the for sustainable livelihoods and -track local culture, heritage and Kumaon Himalayas in Uttarkahand economic empowerment. communities. A tour of the Nila the R.O.S.E Kanda Homestay Spiti Ecosphere Homestay, a social also brings you in touch with the has been enjoying tremendous enterprise which has been long musicians of Mulayankaavu near support from voluntourists from active in these parts, hosts visitors Angadipuram (a platform for both home and abroad. This Rural in the villages of Demul, Komic and more than 150 students to learn Organization for Social Elevation Langza and sets up culture-rich

8 9 journeys around this remote valley in addition to welcoming voluntary work (anything from 4 days to a week) in the conservation of natural resources through eco-friendly tourist practices, infrastructure development and interaction with the village communities in their daily activities. For more information: www.spitiecosphere.com Wild Chennai While exploring the splendours of Tamil Nadu’s fabulous temple and cultural offerings an intriguing voluntary progrmme at the Madras Indo-Nepal Circuit Salakpur Children Crocodile Bank Trust & Centre for Herpetology will surely appeal to Mesmerising Eastern The Educators Trust the adventurous wildlife enthusiast. Himalayas Located in the tourist paradise Conservation and research on Darjeeling, Sikkim, Arunachal of Goa, the Educators trust is for the crocodile, one of nature’s Pradesh, Assam are some of thousands of children the only most feared predators, offers the most thrilling holiday organization which will save them volunteering opportunities at the experiences await visitors in their from poverty. Run almost entirely by centre in the fields of maintenance, splendiferous environs in the volunteers the ETI visits Goan slums short term research, the library on setting of the Eastern Himalayas and offers the families regular fruit, herpetological literature and the and the lush Brahmaputra Valley. medical packs and blankets in return outreach programmes with the From tea plantation homestays for allowing their children to attend locals. For more information: in Darjeeling and the Dooars to school each morning, where the www.madrascrocodilebank.org stalking the one-horned rhino in children also receive two good meals. Kaziranga…from soaking in the In doing so the charity aims to save Spiritual Bodhgaya scents of the unique botanical the children from a life of begging and At Bodhgya, the spiritual wonders of its forestlands while equip them with the education they founthead of the Buddhist faith, trekking in Sikkim to sharing a need to have a real chance in life. travellers can soak up the rich meal at a remote village with the Recent volunteer Tim nuances of a blissfully rewarding tribals in Arunachal—there are Whitehouse says that the charity spiritual experience. But they can experiences aplenty to involve makes an incredible difference also enrich themselves further by yourself in the conservation and to the lives of the kids, not just signing up for voluntary work with community-based initiatives set in educating them, but also I the Roots Institute, a center for in place here. providing health and welfare Buddhist meditation and study, Spearheading the volunteer outreach services. Of his experience which offers gratifying humanitarian tourism activities is the Siliguri and there he says, “The children’s health opportunities for the upliftment Kolkata-based Help Tourism, long is often neglected in slums – burns of the remote village communities associated in this region with the and insect bites get infected and in Bihar. The work largely entails development of communities and the parents do not take them to health education along with its preservation of ethnic cultures. In see a doctor. The kids get treated promotion and development conjunction with the Association for head lice, checked for infected amongst the village communities. for Conservation and Tourism (ACT), wounds and are well fed, which Spiritual volunteers are welcome Help Tourism continues its foray prevents further illness. Illnesses to assist with daily meditations, run in action-oriented environmental such as Dengue Fever or Malaria are short workshops and offer general based livelihood projects— best also much more quickly spotted, so help with the spiritual program. enjoyed as home stays and lives are saved.” In addition to this health program eco-guide training, seminars The ETI has a number of positions volunteers are needed to assist with and workshops sensitization for philanthropic travellers to fill, program coordination and nursing for community conservation and are always in particular need of and physiotherapy / occupational and empowerment of isolated anyone with administration skills. therapy volunteers. For more communities. For more information: For more information visit: information: www.rootinstitute.com www.helptourism.com www.educatorstrustindia.org

8 9 Destinations Royal JourneyThe Palace on Wheels: to Rajasthan’s Timeless Treasures Travel by night and explore by day on India’s luxury trains

dazzling tapestry, of India; it also has the distinction of being exquisite destinations rated as one of the 10 best luxurious and exotic people, of train journeys in the world. With stunning crafts and unparalleled luxury facilities and services A cultural traditions of onboard, the train has 14 carriages—all dance and music, of creatures wild and individually named after a city in the of palaces and havelis , of fortresses and desert state of Rajasthan; it also features temples of stunning beauty— Rajasthan two restaurants and a bar lounge area. holds the promise of a journey to You travel through the night to different timeless delights. cities and explore them during the day. And what better than to discover this India has the second largest magical world from the lap of luxury rail network in the world and also on the now-world famous Palace On distinguishes itself with a host of some Wheels, one of India’s most luxurious of the world’s most luxurious train travel train travel services, which takes you services— amongst them also the Royal to some of the most fabulous holiday Rajasthan on Wheels and the Maharajas’ destinations in the state with the added Express. The Palace On Wheels itinerary bonus of a take-off from the historic Ex Delhi is Jaipur- Sawai Madhopur national capital of India, Delhi, and a – Chittaurgarh - Udaipur - Jaisalmer- sign-off at Agra, home of the exquisite Jodhpur- Bharatpur - Taj Mahal (Agra) - Taj Mahal. Delhi. Passengers can travel and savour The Palace on Wheels is the oldest the following highlights on the train’s (1982) and most popular luxury trains of 8-day / 7-night journey.

10 11 Jaipur-Amber India has Swai Madhopur- The ancient fiefdom of the the second Ranthambhore Kachhawaha rulers was originally ruled National Park from Amer and then the capital was largest rail moved to Jaipur by the enlightened Access to one of India’s most Maharaja Swai Jai Singh. The legendary network in beautiful tiger havens is by the railhead ‘Pink City’ is a major tourist hub today of Swai Madhopur. with its palace museums and medieval the world Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve and bazaars bristling with life and all manner and also National Park offers some of the most of exotica. It’s also an excellent base fabulous tiger-spotting experiences for detours to the fortified Amer, and distinguishes in India. An important part of India’s nearby townships of Sanganer and Project Tiger conservation programe it Bagru, known for their beautiful and itself with is also home to the leopard, sloth bear, very unique textile traditions. wild boar, chinkara etc. The Aravalli Jaipur’s beautifully vastu-inspired a host of Range is a natural barrier protecting the old city houses the famous Maharaja 329 sq km area, marked by thick forest Swai Man Singh II Museum (City some of the of deep antiquity and numerous water Palace Museum) located in the Rajput- bodies. The stunning Ranthambhore Mughal-style City Palace, which world’s most Fort is Rajasthan’s oldest battlement marks the 1,000-odd year reign of the luxurious enclave. Nearby is the ancient Ganesh Kachhawaha rulers. Its superb collection Temple visited by hundreds of devotes incorporates traditional crafts, art works, train travel all year round. It’s especially colourful rare manuscripts, textiles, carpets, wall during Ganesh Chaturthi. hangings and jewellery, costumes and services well-documented armoury. Highlights include two massive silver urns used to old quarter around Badi Chaupar and Chittorgarh carry holy Ganga jal for ruler Madho Chotti Chaupar for gem stones, textiles, Singh II to London. handicrafts and jootis etc. MI Road is Much of its past glory has faded The peachy, multi-layered confection another major shopping hub. into oblivion, as most of it lies in of balconies, windows and feathery Amer was traditionally the capital ruins. Just 90 km away from Mewar’s screens of the Hawa Mahal, along the city of the Kachhawahas from the 11th capital of Udaipur, Chittorgarh was busy Sireh Deori bazaar, were built in century. An integral stop on a tour the ancient seat of the Sisodia Rajputs. 1799. It was used as a viewing gallery of the Jaipur area, Amer will enthrall The ruins of the palace of the brave for the ladies of the palace. The Jantar with its massive fortification, its Sheesh Rani Padmini reminds you of her Mantar is a witness to Swai Jai Singh Mahal (hall of mirrors) and the superb inventiveness in outwitting the Delhi’s II’s futuristic leanings; he set up five Sound and Light show held nightly. Just sultan Allauddin Khilji, who was so such astronomical observatories across 30km from Jaipur it offers detours to obsessed by tales of her legendary India. Jawahar Kala Kendra, designed Nahargarh Fort, Jaigarh Fort and the beauty that he laid siege to Chittor to by Indian architect Charles Correa, beautifully restored Jal Mahal. Jaipur is get to see her for himself. has displays of traditional textiles, 260 km from Delhi and 240 km from pottery, handicrafts and weaponry. Agra and forms the ‘Golden Triangle’ of Scour Jaipur’s famous bazaars in the Delhi, Agra and Jaipur.

10 11 Destinations

The ancient stones of Chittor Fort, one considered the most invincible in Rajasthan, still seem to resound with the heroic and cunning military exploits of Sisodia rulers such as Rana Kumbha and Rana Sangha. It summons up vignettes of the itinerant wars from 1303 when Khilji unleashed his fury against Chittor, and how it rose again only to fall again during the 16th century from death- defying clashes with the sultan of Gujarat — and again with the Mughal emperor Akbar. Kirti Stambh is another highlight here as is the 37-m high Vijay Stambh built in the 15th century to commemorate the victories against Malwa and Gujarat.

Take a leisurely boat ride to the Jag Udaipur Mandir on Lake Pichola. Have a meal at the air-conditioned restaurant here. Most people will have heard of one of Jag Mandir has become popular as a the world’s most famous water palace venue for wedding receptions. Shop for of India, the legendary Lake Palace jewels, old weaponry and textiles in the of Udaipur, set upon the picturesque squiggly lanes of its antique bazaars. Lake Pichola and now run as a luxury You can do side trips to the famous Shiv hotel by the Taj Group. But Udaipur temple of Eklingji, 24 km north of town. city is steeped in ancient legends of It is the tutelary deity of the Mewar the Mewar rulers of the Sisodia clan rajas. Nathdwara 48km away from of Kolkata, Mumbai and Surat during of Rajputs. Udaipur became the brand Udaipur reveres Lord Krishna housed in British rule. Jaislamer saw the exodus of new capital of the Sisodia Rajput rulers the venerated and venerable Shrinathji much of its Marwari trading community after the sacking of Chittorgarh and Temple. The temples at Nagda , close to to these port towns. Today the city relies the flight of the infant Udai Singh, heir Udaipur are famous for their Khajuraho- on tourism for its revival and survival. apparent, with his nurse Panna Dai, to temple like erotica. The Shilpgram Jaisalmer was established as the Kumbahlgarh their fortified retreat. The Festival is a great crowd-puller in the hub of the 12th century kingdom of new capital of the Sisodia became the New Year. Rawal Jaisal, the Bhatti Rajput chieftain. city of Udaipur built on the advice of a Today you can wander around many sage. Today the city is a conglomeration of its spectacular 19th century havelis of palaces and temples built by 20 odd Jaisalmer (mansions), palaces and Jain temples maharanas of Mewar, beginning from built by the city’s affluent traders the 16th century to the 20th century. The desert sands have been witness and ministers. Elaborate confections Chief amongst these are the lakeside to centuries of comings and goings at created to please the ambitions of Shiv Niwas City Palace, part hotel and the beautiful golden fort which marks the rich and influential, they are a part museum today, showcasing some the desert outpost of Jaisalmer. Within delectable fusion of carved facades of the most interesting elements of the the ancient embrace of its golden sand and lofty pillars, delicate chattris and history and culture of Sisodia rule. stone walls and bristling bastions of this cupolas, lacy jali (screen) work and The royals still occupy one wing of living fort lies a centuries old saga of evocative jharokas (balconies) made the palace; it is closed to the public. ancient traditions and cultural moorings from the ubiquitous local golden Take time to visit the famous Crystal lovingly kept alive by a people who sandstone. Do visit the Patwon-ki Gallery and the museum of beautifully pride themselves on their valorous past. -Haveli, Nathmalji’s Haveli and the maintained vintage cars. Built by Located strategically along the ancient 19th century Salim Singh’s Haveli, Maharana Jagat Singh, the Jagdish caravan routes the lonely city survived along with the 20th century Badal Temple is located on Lal Ghat, close on the business it accrued from those Nivas Palace and the Sarvotttam Vilas to the City Palace; it is home to Lord who plied their trade along the West Palace is renowned for its exquisite Jagannath who is an incarnation of Asian trade route. It was the death knell glass mosaic and blue tile work. Lord Vishnu. It is one of the city’s most of a flourishing world in this harsh and In the fort precincts you will discover popular shrines. Get there during the unforgiving land, when its importance seven extensively carved Jain temples morning or evening aarti when the fell into decline as a trading outpost (Chandraprabhu, Parasnath, Shitlanath, atmospherics are really evocative. with the opening up of the seaports Sambhavanath, Shantinath, Kunthunath

12 13 Destinations

and Rikhabdev) built by the town’s rich merchants during the 15th and 16th centuries. They are a beautiful symbiosis of Islamic-Hindu workmanship. The grand fort itself sits atop the 80m high Trikuta Hill, and was witness to a massive invasion in which thousands of women and children died committing jauhar (self-immolation), the traditional end for Rajput women in the face of defeat in war. Garsisar Tank attracts scores of visitors during the annual Gangaur festivities. In the markets look for Jaisalmer’s famous puppets and wall hangings. The tiny stalls at Manik Chowk, where once Bharatpur Mughal rulers, till Emperor Shahjehan numerous caravans congregated, have built his new capital of Shahjehanabad all manner of enticements. The nearby One of India’s most important in Delhi. A visit to this mesmerising sand dunes of Sam and Khuri are great wetlands and a bustling Ramsar Site, monument also offers opportunities for tented stays under the stars. These the Keoladeo Ghana National Park, for leisurely forays of the stunning Agra can be arranged by government- attracts bird watchers from all over the Fort, commissioned by Mughal Emperor recognised local travel agencies. world during the winter months when Akbar in 1565. It overlooks the sleepy The Desert Festival is a three-day it becomes a haven for migratoy birds Yamuna River which also winds past the extravaganza . from Europe. It is also is renowned as Taj. The Itmad-ud-Daullah Tomb was the world’s finest heronries. Bharatpur, commissioned by Empress Noorjehan where the birdwatching park is located, for her father. Do pencil in a visit to Jodhpur used to be ruled by the Jat chieftains Akbar’s famous capital city (1571-1585) from the 17th century. Their formidable of Fatehpur Sikri with its fabulous The fabulous Meharangarh Fort Fort Lohagarh established by Raja Suraj architecture. It’s a short drive from Agra (1459) built by Rao Jodha, rears its Mal is also well worth a wander. When city and will really blow you away with ancient head into a fierce blue sky. you have time on your hands drive its exquisite carvings. Today visitors go zipping at the fort down to picturesque Deeg (34km), As an approximate indicator of the in this former capital of the erstwhile which is another old Jat fiefdom. The costs of the Palace on Wheels package, rulers of Marwar. Set along the great gorgeous Monsoon Palace with its Mustafa Travels in Singapore markets trade routes of the caravans that pretty fountains will assuredly invite you both the 8D/7N Palace on Wheels and traversed this region Mehrangarh was to spend more time here. Royal Rajasthan on Wheels packages a force to be reckoned with. There’s starting from S$4,055 / US$3,027 (twin a nice little museum where you can share) and S$5,555 / US$4,393 (twin explore vignettes of its glorious past. Agra share deluxe cabin) respectively. The Umaid Bhawan Palace now partially Home to that most evocative cost is inclusive of accommodation and run as a hotel was a work in progress monument to love, The Taj Mahal all meals, sightseeing, entrance fees to started by the maharaja to give (1653), Agra used to be one of the monuments and cultural sites as and people work during a great famine most colourful bastions of the early service taxes. in b1929 by Maharaja Umaid Singh; construction was completed in 1943. Travel around the surrounding villages where you’ll come upon families of local craftsmen famed for their dhurrie weaving and pottery making. Jaswant Thada is dotted with a collection of elegant royal cenotaphs. For shopping sprees set off for the famous streets and gullies of bustling Giridkot and Sardarmarkets showcasing local handicrafts for all budgets. Picnics are lazy pastimes at the serene Balsamand Lake, just 5km away as is Mandore (8km away) marked by royal cenotaphs and a landscaped garden.

12 13 Shopping India: Endless Allurements for Retail Therapy No matter where you are, there is always the opportunity to shop. Some recommended buys special to these places

ts legend. India specialising in Agra Amritsar opening up the purse The historic Mughal bastion which is The spiritual and secular fountainhead strings, has always home to that great fabled monument of the Sikh faith, the ancient city of done so. From the of love…that imperial ‘tear drop on Amritsar is a whirlwind of surprising time those sailing the cheek of time’ The Taj Mahal is holiday experiences. Stock up on ships bringing traders one of India’s top tourist destinations. traditional pappads, vari and pickles for Ifrom Europe and Araby, from China Vigorously promoted as part of the the kitchen, on Queens Road, opposite and the Indies. And again from the famous ‘Golden Triangle’ of Delhi-Agra- Crystal Restaurant. For jewellery head forbidding mountain passes, from Jaipur, it is a gem of a destination in for the old quarter where they still Central Asia and Afghanistan, where the country’s tourism portfolio, which make traditional gem-encrusted jadau raiders and caravans alike sought her continues to shine as it did when the jewllery for a bride’s trousseau. riches, who could not get enough of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan dazzled Pick up a vibrantly coloured her wealth, gold, diamonds, coloured the ancient world with his paean of embroidered Phulkari chadars, gemstones, spices, textiles and tea. love to his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal traditionally given to a Punjabi bride You may not be a merchant prince, when she died. Pile up your bags with before she leaves home. Salwar just a besotted tourist who’s heard Agra’s famous handicrafts, made of -kameez sets, richly embroidered from others back home who have marble and soapstone inlay work, leather dupattas are available aplenty in the summoned up tales of the fantastic ware, brassware, carpets, jewellery and old bazaars and the fancy boutiques offerings of India’s bazaars, her embroidery work. The Mughals were around Lawrence Road. It has now crafting villages and now even her great patrons of arts and crafts. Empress also become a hub for replicating the world-famed designer houses. It’s Nur Jahan took personal interest and embroiderd shawls (many machine time now to check things out for was an accomplished artist herself in made) handcrafted by the craftsmen of yourself and return home with bags zari embroidery work. Agra is also well the Kashmir Valley. Amritsar was a major loaded and stories of India’s shopping known for its sweets ‘Petha’ and ‘Gazak’ hub for textiles and its blankets and experience extraordinaire. and the salty snack ‘Dalmoth.’ woolens legendry.

14 15 Shopping Aurangbad This ancient city named after the Mughal emperor Auranzeb the city of Aurangabad in Maharashtra, is the gateway to the world famous UNESCO Heritage Sites of Ajanta and Ellora Caves. Aurangabad also offers quick access to the village of Paithan where its craftsmen weave some of the most & exquisite saris. Chowrasta, the popular hangout Pick up Paithani saris woven in gold. on the Mall offers many shops worth The really expensive ones take 6-18 exploring for hand made rugs, curios, months to weave. Paithan is just 56 km tea, woolens, tangkha paintings, masks from Aurangabad. The local craftsmen etc lots of and bric-a brac. Nathumulls have weaving these gorgeous saris on the Mall is a favoured stop for boutiques a run for their money any from generation to generation for over excellent teas, both Darjeeling and day. From churans to bangles, from 2000 years now.Mashru and Himroo Assam varieties Pony rides and views of traditional textiles to jewels there are fabrics, made of cotton and lustrous silk Khanchendzonga (on clear winter days) choices aplenty. Bargain hard for and bidri work has flourished over the are also on offer here. The Refugee Self jootis and durees, lehenga- cholis and centuries in Aurangabad district Help Centre and Haydn Hall... Both are Jaipuri light-as-a feather Jaipuri quilts. excellent for picking up souvenirs Get someone in the know to take you through a maze of noodle lanes where Bangalore gemstones —emeralds and sapphires, The fusion of past and present is a Hyderabad rubies and pearls are sold in poky little seamless one… but which still catches the The regal abode of the Nizam’s is apartment buildings by precious stones unwary visitor with unexpected delight. splendiferous fusion of heritage and merchants. bandhej (tie and dye) saris Brigade Road, MG Road and modernity. Steeped in the dazzling and fabrics can be found in Rangwalon- Commercial Street stock up on every cultural delights of its past, Hyderabad ki-Gali and Kishanpal Bazaar. Gopalji- conceivable allurement for the avid is also one of India’s top IT hubs. If you ka-Rasta has shops selling jewels and shopper—shoes, bags, clothes and want to explore Hyderabad’s famous numerous goldsmiths and silver smiths electronics are top of the pile. For arts and crafts heritage its best to drop and gem cutters and polishers. For handicrafts its Cauvery Emporium on in at the Shilparamam Arts and Crafts traditional Rajasthani juttis hit the MG Road, where you can fill your bags Village at Madhapur. This 30-acre shops at Ramganj Bazaar. Ittars, textiles with incense, local crafts in stonecraft sprawl brings you in direct touch with and handmade shoes are at Nehru and expensive woods—rosewood , craftsmen at work. The annual 2-week Bazaar and Bapu Bazaar. Unmissable sandalwood et al—and of course textiles, Crafts Mela in December is held here to experiences await at Jaipur Blue Pottery stoles and jewellry. UB City is the posh encourage the artisans to preserve their Art Centre on the Amber Road, the hub for designer wear and international centuries-old ancient skills and crafting Friends of the Museum (City Palace) and brands. Chill out between shopping heritage. Laad Bazaar is also a must on Anokhi Museum near Amber Fort. bouts at the food court here. your shopping list. Set in the old quarter this atmospheric bazaar showcases a vast variety of tempting buys. Top of the Varanasi Bikaner tops—the pearls, the lac bangles and a A religious and cultural capital (being This ancient desert outpost lies on wide selection of bridal attire. home to many renowned writers over the ancient trade routes of caravans centuries), it may be but Varanasi is traveling through the Thar Desert to also well known as a silk weaving centre the legendary Silk Route in Central Asia. Jaipur and there are many opportunities to Pick up Bikaneri’s famous camel leather The pink City, an integral part of shop along many of its chaotic bazaars products and the cocktail snack Biknaeri India’s tourism “Golden Traingle’ to haggle for souvenirs and the humble bhujia. The jail carpets of Bikaner have continues to be charged by the energy rickshaw is the best way to get around. been awarded the Grand Prix Diploma. and allure of streams of visitors from Banarasi silks are a part of every girl’s home and abroad Badi Chaupar, wedding trousseau and the Banaras Chotti Chaupar, Johari Bazaar, Bapu Brocades are prized the world over. Darjeeling Bazaar and Tripolia Bazaar an evocative Brassware, copperware, wooden and With its fabulous views of the world’s treasure house of colour and spicy clay toys and exquisite gold jewellery third highest peak Mt Khanchendzonga scents. Jaipur’s bazaars are a magnet are some of the other craft the city is Drasjeeling reminds you that it for all kinds of enticing wares. The famous for. The hand - knotted carpets has played a pivotal role in India’s medieval streets of the old quarter of Mirzapur and musical instruments are mountaineering heritage. give the spanking new malls and glitzy among the other shopping attraction.

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in

with RATNA singh

atna Singh is something the occasional leopard, tiger or bear. It of a rarity in India. As wasn’t a big deal. one of the nation’s only “People accepted the animals as a fully trained female part of life. My folks used to hunt in the She also naturalist and jungle olden days, but my father had turned to Rtour guides she has become something conservation. I think that’s the grain I of a celebrity among locals, co-workers, imbibed. I learnt that out in that part of shows how and safari-enthusiasts alike. Following the world you lived with animals, they promotional exposure from Indian TV had their rightful place alongside the one can legend Amitabh Bachchan in 2012 her villagers.” fame as a naturalist has grown. Today “I have always loved wildlife, and she is the International Sales Manager a love for the wilderness came from play a part of &Beyond (South Asia), a leader in my family. I was always keen to be a luxury experiential travel and safaris, naturalist, taking inspiration from the with its roots in Africa and South Asia. people I met growing up. in wildlife Ratna knew from an early age that she “Back then, if you wanted to be in wanted to be a naturalist. Throughout the jungle, you sort of had to be a man. conservation her childhood she was always exposed There were a few female researchers but to animals of a breathtaking variety and no one out in the field.” quickly became as comfortable in the at Taj Safaris company of wild animals as people. Growing up two hours away from Trained the Bandhavgarh National Park it was which offers commonplace for her to encounter all Professional manner of wild fauna on a day-to-day Guides exclusive basis: “I lived in a thickly forested area, The concept of trained professional and it was very common to see wild guides was fairly new to India. The idea animals around the village. I went to of a trained, professional female guide wilderness a boarding school when I was about was unheard of. So, when she heard four-years old, but would come back that Taj Safaris (a joint venture between to the village on vacations. Apart from &Beyond, TAJ Resorts & Palaces and programmes the farm animals, there were plenty of Cigen) was recruiting, she applied and langurs and macaques that came by; to her surprise was asked to go in for in India sometimes even wild boars, deer, and the selection process. She knew that

16 17 there were going to be those who “My daily schedule usually starts would claim that a woman could with me getting up at dawn to go never do the job as well as a man. into the jungle with my guests. Some Nonetheless, the 33-year old prepared days I’ll return to the cottage around herself for any harassment that came noon to shower, change or eat lunch. her way. “It was rather hard. I used to I’ll often spend all day in the jungle get phone calls, at all odd hours, telling though. me to get out (of the industry); I was “I don’t return until after sunset, criticized for wearing pants and living after which I return, shower, change among men, doing a man’s job, getting and go to act as host for the guests sweaty, being unladylike and so on. in the lodge - which usually involves Despite all the difficulties, Ratna got cocktails or dinner. So a typical day the job and today she is one of many usually consists of 8 to 10 hours of a small girl. She says, “I love wildlife. women in the field, a sure sign that driving in the jungle with a few hours I love the wilderness! I grew up with the industry is gradually changing, “It of hosting.” a lot of animals around me. It’s as if is now nearly eight years on and more Through her pioneering role as my soul belonged there. It’s an easier, and more women can be seen around.” the park’s first female naturalist, simpler life.” Ratna has become an inspiration for girls throughout her village. She is Most seen as something of a trail-blazing Tiger Meeting role model. Parents of young “There have been so many instances Popular Guide girls now actively seek her out to of fantastic animal sightings and animal Today Ratna is one of the most convince their daughters to study behaviour in the park. For example, last popular guides in the park and lives hard and focus on their careers! season I was guiding a couple of South amongst the wilderness she loves so “Once, last year in Bandhavgarh, African wildlife veterans. We had had much. “I live in the staff village provided there was a large extended family wonderful sightings of tigresses, which by Taj Safaris. It’s a cute cottage with of visitors to the park. They called they wanted to crown with a sighting of a living room, bedroom and kitchen- up and wanted to meet me. Then a tiger. although food is provided for us in these three sets of parents from “So I asked around, and found out the staff cafeteria so I rarely use it. Mumbai brought their kids, ranging that a young male tiger had gone into The company ensures its facilities from early teens to early twenties, a certain cave late that morning. The have a minimal impact on the natural to visit me in the park. They said guide and I decided to go and wait at environment, using a proven sustainable they wanted their kids to meet the cave’s mouth. Since it was very hot ecotourism model; it also spearheads real-life role models like me and we were convinced that he wouldn’t wildlife conservation efforts and not emulate film stars. Then all the have gone anywhere so I stayed with contribute to the social development kids touched my feet! I still get my guests for over two hours in silence, in the community it operates in. This overwhelmed by that memory.” patiently waiting. They were really led to Taj Safaris winning the 2013 The secret of Ratna’s success beginning to doubt my professional Tourism for Tomorrow Conservation appears to be in her unwavering capabilities as the day drew on. Award in recognition of its position as a passion for wildlife. She still gets as “After a while a few other jeeps joined world leader in responsible tourism and excited about the great animals of us in waiting. Then, one of the vehicles conservation. the park as she did when she was got a flat tyre from the sharp rocks just

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as we saw the tiger emerge, and then turn and wander away from us, in-between some rocks. “I, along with the other vehicles reversed to see to where the tiger was heading. The guy with the puncture couldn’t move though: His tyre was flat and his jack had jammed, so he couldn’t do a thing about it. Pashan Garh Panna Guest Area “Meanwhile the tiger had settled on a rock giving everyone a fantastic view of him lounging in the sun; everyone apart from the guys in the vehicle with the flat tyre that is. The driver was gesturing for someone to go and help him but no one moved. They didn’t want to lose the magnificent tiger sighting. “After about 10 minutes I felt bad for them, so I told my guests we’d drive back and help them. They agreed, and I drove about 50 metres round the bend, back to where the vehicle had gotten stuck. The rest of the vehicles started to leave as it was getting time to exit the park, while the young male tiger was still resting on the rock. “Picture the scene: me, my guide, the naturalist and guide of the other car were trying to change the tyre. As we were on the ground, not 10 metres ahead of us in walks the dominant male tiger of the area, while the young male is sitting behind us about 60 metres away. It was an electric moment: We were right in the middle of a tiger Banjaar tola Guest Area stand-off! “We quickly returned to the safety of our vehicles. What followed was one of the most thrilling sightings I have ever seen. The older male set about asserting his dominance over the younger one in a spectacular fashion. The growling and displays of power… the way they were circling each other… It gave me goose bumps!” Pressure is mounting on Ratna to tell her remarkable story- she is constantly batting off demands that she write a book of her adventures. For the time being though she is more than happy in the jungle with her animals, “I love wildlife. You can’t get lonely around something you love. Yes, one needs to be comfortable in your own company: the isolation of the job gets to some and they leave in a season or two. “But for me, standing alone in the jungle makes my soul soar! It’s as if the wilderness communicates with me, giving me a tremendous a sense of well being.” It’s as if my soul belongs in the jungle. It’s an easier, simpler life. And most importantly, there are the tigers! Tigers! Tigers! There is nothing Pashan Garh Panna Guest Area more regal! For more information on Taj Safaris visit: www.tajsafaris.com

18 Banjaar Tola Lodge bedroom 19 Bloggers Tales

Venkat Ganesh Western Ghats - Travelling South

The Western Ghats is a natural eco wonder of the world - the top eight most biologically diverse region on earth. Venkat, the Backpack Motorbike blogger, rides south to Pallaruvi Waterfalls, Pathimoonu Kunnara Palam & Gavi built over 100 years during the early the narrow potholed roads. While colonial era using the Surki method it might make better sense to It’s not every day writes Venkat that employs a mixture of lime, keep on the highway, the slower that one wakes up looking forward under burnt clay and water. The pace respects the rights of the wild to showering under a huge waterfall. result of this method of construction animals in their habitat. Banjaar tola Guest Area After spending the night in a lodge is a strong structure that still endures The next 60 km stage of the ride in the village of Pallakal which is till today. Venkat was impressed took four hours with the weather situated on the Kerala side of the by what he’s seen and said, “I was remaining foggy and wet abetted by Kerala-TN border, Venkat’s group immediately filled with wonder and an occasional slight drizzle. He said of riders had started off early. The awe at the history and the changing that they had hoped to spot a tiger village of Gavi, located inside the times that such buildings have been or elephant, but unfortunate ly, they Periyar Tiger Reserve, was their first a witness to. What must it have been were not able to see any wildlife. pit stop for the day. It was about 200 when the first train passed through But the weather did inspire one km away but they knew it would this bridge from or towards a tunnel of the riders, a flautist to perform a take much time no thanks to the that lies on one side of the bridge? rendition of ARR’s Jashn-e-Bahara mountainous and (at times) non- How much trade must it have during a break halfway through the existent roads. Added to that they witnessed being the only railway sanctuary. For Venkat, it provided had been in a habit to take many link between Kollam and Chennai?” one of the trip’s most memorable breaks for photography and enjoy Weather-wise the air had turned moment. He recalled, “The misty a leisurely lunch. This time they from hot and humid to pleasantly weather, the melody of the flute skipped it altogether and just had rainy and cool as the convoy rode and slight chill in the temperature fruits (bananas) and chips. on the state highways that passed right there in the wild lap of nature The Pallaruvi waterfalls was a through rubber and banana combined to provide me with my real spectacle. He wrote how, “The plantations. They saw many little favourite moment of the trip. I water runs down with a great roar villages along the way with homes couldn’t ask for more.” and the resultant impact produces of every colour and shade. He had a a mist that dampens even those wistful thought, “I was filled by the Blog note: who decide not to venture into the desire to leave the world behind and Venkat started his travel ‘India small lake below. I stayed far away, settle down behind one off the little Backpack Motorbike’ blog in 2012. but the rest of the gang had a quick doors, right there and then.” Recently his work and photos and vigorous massage, Jacuzzi and A state highway connects were published by Economic shower by standing under the 100 the sanctuary Angamoozhy to Times of India and though feet gushing water!” Vandiperiyar. Armed with a permit he rides a bike to many rural from the sanctuary’s range officer, and rustic destinations, it is his 13-Arched Brdge they could ride through the natural enthusiasm and gung ho approach Next was a quick stop at wilderness on a very narrow single to exploring which readers find Patthimoonu Kannara Palam (the lane road. Road conditions were infectious and inspiring. Check out 13-Arched Bridge) and then its back poor here and the weather had his blog and latest routes at www. on the road to Gavi. The bridge was also turned as wet and foggy on indiabackpackmotorbike.com. hotos: www.indiabackpackmotorbike.com P hotos:

18 19 Bloggers Tales

Alyx Kottmeier How It is Hip to be in India

A slice of life featuring The My plan was to sell adverts, stay Wandering Yogini who is a for free at guest houses and frequent traveller to India, the practice yoga on the roof tops. Mother of Yoga I believe in the law of least effort. 500s to ride through India. Except that this was becoming really You can still watch us we on The gypsiness is in my blood. hard. First of all, I have dyslexia so Youtube we only have three India is the mother of yoga. I’ve writing is super hard for me. Also, episodes but one day we will been here since 2009 and never good internet connections can finish the rest. That’s how India really left. I occasionally leave to be difficult to find in India and works its magic. You just dream train teachers in yoga workshops sometimes, depending on where of something and it happens. So in Mexico and Guatemala, but I you are, the electricity tends to have I’ve been living from November always come back. Home is where a mind of its own. Plus, no-one was to March in Goa and then hoping the heart is, why does it have to paying for my adverts. to Nepal or Thailand and making stay in one place? However, Yoga Companies kept jewellery for Gypsalove: a jewellery I came to India in 2009 to train sending me free clothes to wear line based on being a gypsy- as a teacher in the back waters of in yoga for promotional purposes incorporating healing stones in Kerala. After I graduated I decided on Facebook and Instagram. So fashionable products. to back pack around the country, I decided I to keep my online All good things must come to on a tiny budget. This usually magazine and not be so serious an end. For me and Goa this end happens when you’re a yoga about it and do what I do best came when the hotel I was working teacher and jewellery creator, as teach yoga and wear other peoples at wanted a bigger slice of my you don’t exactly get paid the best clothes and just send them pictures income to have my students from wages in the world. As with most of me. So I decided to put up a all around the globe walk on their hippies, India was the perfect place yoga shala in Agonda Goa. It wasn’t land. It happens everywhere even for me: I could do yoga with the long before I was making around in my beloved India. From now on, best teachers of the world and sell US$400 on a good day. Not only I might take some seasonal work in jewellery off my mat. For me it that but I got to live on a tropical Northern Goa for a company called really was a dream life. beach and have yoga clothes sent Super Soul. I was doing amazingly, so to me. Life was getting awesome. I decided to make an online Then it got even better: my Blog Note: magazine called Hipptrip, reviewing friend Meghan Currie and I Alyx is a wandering Yogini who amazing hotels and guesthouses decided to write to Royal Enfield often goes to see her Guru in India and writing about yoga and fashion. the motor cycle company and ask as well as meet her colleagues at to be sponsored. Gypsalove. So India is always in We pitched the her heart. She wrote the above idea that we when she was at Pushkar, Rajasthan would showcase where there was a colourful holy them on YouTube festival happening and it was quite in a self-made the place to be then. A typical documentary day for her would be teaching called the a class on her roof top in the Wandering evenings. To find out more about Yoginis. Incredibly, Alyx Kottmeier’s work check out: they said yes Hipptrip.com, gypsalove.com and gave us two or Instgram: @hipptrip and @ brand new Bullet gypsalove.

20 21 Bloggers Tales

This Mumbai-based blogger specialises in spiritual destinations

If you are considering a visit to temples in Kerala you should check out My Yatra Diary for the local Shree Krishna, Trichambaram Shree Krishna, Shree Muthappan and Hree Vaidyanatha Temples in Kannur, you should check out the blog by ‘Arti’ of Mumbai. Her temple visits are well illustrated with photos and, more importantly, loads of travel trips to prepare one for the visit there. She first sets the stage: “Resonating true to the nature of Kerala, its Temples too paint Arti a picture of peace and calm. So peaceful are its precincts that there were a few instances when I was Kerala Temple Visits discouraged even ringing the bell so that its tranquility could be maintained!” a watch at the pilgrims and the Such close-up and fascinating At the Shree Muthappan Temple, visitors. Besides these, one also reports are typical for all her blogs. Parassinikadavu (Kannur). This comes across a large number Followed by an “Important Travel temple is highly recommended of bronze dogs guarding the Tips & Information” section. She and is dedicated to the highly sanctum. If one were to believe also blogs on her experiences revered deity of northern Kerala, ancient stories, Muthappan used visiting the Ghats of Mathura characterised by Lord Vishnu to have a dog accompany in his – Vishram Ghat by the Yamuba and Lord Shiva. She also reveals, journey and that is how dogs have River; the Triveni Ghat, Ram Jhula, “The temple is one of the most come to enjoy a special place in laxma Jhula, Kailesh Niketan significant ones for the Kannur-ites the temple today.” Temple in Rishikesh among other and attracts many a visitors like She also writes that the second places. me for more reasons than one; feature of the temple and one of the chief features being the probably the most significant one Blog Note: existence of dogs. You find them is the aura of a ‘Live’ God. Here, Arti’s low-key blog is called everywhere - Outside the temple, you not only pray but also interact ‘My Yatra Diary’ and it proudly inside the temple and even near with the deity through a special proclaims it is both an “award-free the sanctum - real as well as folk dance that is held everyday and tag free diary” and tells visitors artificial! Some keep themselves during the morning and evening to the blog their visits are her only busy by catching a nap.” time. Theyyam as it is called; this reward. Though not exclusively According to Arti, the folk art entails an ornately dressed on India travel her ‘Temples’ and temple regards dogs as sacred resident priest to perform a special ‘Festivals’ sections gives some creatures and this fact is very dance representing the Lord great insights and travel tips for well highlighted at the entrance himself. The devotees watching it a visit. Check them out at www. itself. The main temple is neatly from the sidelines get a chance to myyatradiary.com/search/label/ defended by two fierce looking interact with the Lord at the end Temples or Facebook: www. statue of dogs installed to keep of the show. facebook.com/myyatradiary hotos: ArtiP hotos:

20 21 FACES & PLACES

URVASHI KAUR Amazing Arunachal The international fashion designer has a soft spot for Arunachal Pradesh where she grew up By Shashi Sunny

rvashi Kaur has worked with fashion leaders like Marcel Marongiu, Lolita Lempika and Issey Miyake, and believes that the most creative designs in fashion U are necessarily entwined with the creative ethos one is exposed to. The daughter of an Indian army officer, Urvashi spent her childhood and teenage years in Arunachal Pradesh where her father, former Army chief, General JJ Singh was then posted. She says the natural beauty of the landscape there and the traditional craft skills of the local population left a permanent imprint on her aesthetic sensibilities as a fashion designer. Growing up, Urvashi who loves to travel says, “The extensive exposure to a wide variety of cultural influences has been a catalyst in developing my aesthetic sensibility and the inspiration to work in areas of culture, art and natural beauty came from growing up in the pristine beauty of Arunachal Pradesh. I was blessed to be able to grow up in a place that is now rated as one of the top 21 under the radar destinations by The Lonely Planet.” Nature’s Bounty She says for an amazing travel experience, “You simply must go to this state which is at the remotest north eastern tip of India. Arunachal has a splendid biodiversity of flora and fauna. Here I must make a special mention of the orchids – the state boasts of over 500 varieties of orchids. Arunachal has Asia’s largest orchidarium and of the thousands or so species of orchids in India, Arunachal is home to over 500 of them. These orchids can be found in so many colours and brilliant shades and in some spectacular shapes and sizes. Some of them have exotic names like Draupadipushpa and Sitapushpa, as locals believe that these Goddesses have worn the orchids.”

22 23 Amazing Arunachal

It is not just its floral richness, Urvashi also pointed Tawang is a meandering highland pass leading into a out the altitudinal variety and climatic conditions and picturesque valley, which is the land of the famous 400year old geographical differences have also allowed for a huge Tawang Monastery— the birthplace of the sixth Dalai Lama. diversity of wildlife, “It is perhaps the only state in India The monastery houses gold- lettered copies of sacred Buddhist to feature all the four major cats: tiger, leopard, clouded scriptures. leopard and snow leopard.” Arunachal is also home to According to myth, sage Parashuram washed his sin of seven species of primates, including the hoolock gibbon, matricide in the waters of the River Lohit, and this hallowed slow loris, Assamese macaque, stump-tailed macaque place by the river is now known as Parashuram Kund. Held in and capped langur. It is the one of the few states where Janurary the Parashuram Mela is an added attraction for anyone the threatened takin (goat-antelope) and the most who wishes to sample the flavour of the local life. endangered hispid hare are found. The excavation sites of Bhismaknagar and Malinithan have revealed a very early settlement of the Aryans here. Malinithan has a 7-8 centuries old temple site in ruins. You can have a magnificent bird’s- eye view of the glittering Brahmaputra river Shopping Spree at Akashiganga, which stretches out all the way to the plains “It is also a great place to shop. You can get all kinds below. of woven articles of bamboo and cane and also woven textiles which are fashioned into coats, shawls, skirts and carpets. Pick up carpets, produced by the Monpas, with beautifully traditional tribal designs,” she added. The For a little more offbeat… local blacksmiths are also experts in making arrowheads, Go bird watching in the Sangti Valley where you will spot knives, iron bracelets as well as jewellery and Urvashi, who rare and endangered species, many of which are restricted to is the granddaughter of Punjabi poet, Prabjot Kaur and this state, which boasts of over 600 different species of birds. celebrated writer Narendra Pal Singh, appreciates creative If you are the adventurous sort, don’t forget to try a river handiwork of the Arunachalis and says, “They are also rafting experience. Arunachal has many rapid rivers and is an skilled potters, and their vases and earthenware - some ideal place to go white water rafting. In fact the rafting here of which have attained the status of collector’s items - are is considered amongst the most thrilling in the world. You a must buy. Also pick up beautiful beadwork, exquisitely can also go for boat rides on the Brahmaputra— and with rendered by the tribals with multi-coloured beads, feathers so many water bodies that there are ample opportunities of birds and wings of the green beetles (also featured in for angling and rafting, as well as trekking and hiking in the many other crafts) as an embellishment. And of course, neighbouring hills. There are rivers that you can only cross don’t forget to buy a gale - a kind of woven tribal skirt.” on elephant back because the current is so swift and the river Although Urvashi is now based in Delhi with her bed is too shallow and rocky for a boat. Another fun thing husband and two children, her heart is still very much in is camping along the Doporijo road, which has a suspension Arunachal and she shares her list of “must visits” when you bridge nearby and some very picturesque scenic sights that are there. will leave you enthralled.

22 23 food Shops ChompsThe Best IN BANGLORE At some of these establishments be sure to make reservations; for MTR be ready to queue in the streets to get in! India Incredible Photo:

Masala Klub & And if you really like to do things impressive to say the least. Be it the Masala Grill at hands-on the Masala Grill offers guests jamavar shawls used as wall hangings, the opportunity to do their own grilling the beautiful table settings, the the Taj West End on stone grill tables overseen by the crockery, the cutlery, the table linen, the This iconic restaurant at The Taj Chef. These stones are quite unique. glassware—top of the tops drawn from West End which has a pretty good These are the famous Matterhorn the world’s finest. Not only is the ornate fan following in the city continues to stones sourced from Switzerland and setting so evocative, the beautifully draw new diwanas for its fresh and are electronically heated; they have also ethnically accoutered wait-staff go out fragrant offerings. The journey of been marinated in herbs and saffron of their way to make you feel a bit like seductions begins the moment your for 15 days to transfer flavors to the royalty. What’s really nice is that Jamavar palate encounters the divine morsel food during grilling. Another interesting also offers outdoor tables—that means of their Burra Kebab, as good a starter feature at Masala Klub is the clever you can really soak up that splendid as any other here. Seafood patrons Instant Sketch menus for lunch and serenity and lush verdure The Leela is so swear on the Sowa Tandoori Jhinga..but Tasting Menus for dinner. renowned for. vegetarians too get some interesting Address: Masala Klub The Taj West Maybe it’s in keeping with their need options like their Palak Papad ke Kebab. End, 23 Racecourse Road, Bangalore. Tel: to cater to a global patronage, but Main course specialities such as the 080-6660-5660. Timings: Lunch - 12:30 for an Indian restaurant the Jamavar’s Alleppy Fish Curry, Murgh Khatta Pyaz p.m. to 2:45 p.m., Dinner - 7:00 p.m. to offerings lack spice…a common enough are equally drool worthy…Even the 11:45 p.m. complaint from India patrons, but most delays become tolerable when you foreigners aren’t complaining. If you like sink into the sensational aromas and The Leela your food spicy, you’ll have to ask for freshness of each dish. it. Jamvar offers both north and south Masala Klub at the Taj West End Palace’s Jamavar Indian cuisine. Hot favourites are the is part of the hotel chains signature Restaurant tender, succulent seekh kebabs and the “Masala” brand restaurants. Expect The powerful and the moneyed raised Jhinga Masala for the non-veggies. The some exquisite renderings of both the Jamavar’s prestige in the eyes of the open kitchen is a stimulating feature in north and south Indian favorites global business community honing on the restaurant especially when you can’t at Masala Klub. In keeping with its India’s primary IT hub. It’s no wonder make up your mind what to choose. reputation for its culinary offerings, that The Leela, Bangalore’s Jamavar Patrons clearly enjoy their Lobster the restaurant’s open wine cellar restaurant came to be acclaimed Neeruli, Alleppy Fish Curry, Gosth Nalli stocks a dazzling selection of 225 amongst the world’s top power-broking ka Saalan, Lucknavi Chop and Kashmiri new world and traditional wines. If restaurants. Kanguch comprising those delicious you enjoy interacting with the chef The very name is evocative of luxury, Morel Mushrooms. about your choice of dishes step into priceless crafting and royal living— for Address: Jamavar, The Leela Palace the restaurant’s Masala Studio, where this what Kashmir’s exquisite jamavar Hotel, Old Airport Road, Bangalore. Tel: guests watch their food being prepared shawl was all about. The Jamavar’s 080-30571344, 30571342. Timings: 12 by the in-house gourmet chef. presentation of its regal ambience is Noon to 2:30 PM, 7 PM to 11:30 PM

24 25 1

5 3 2 4 Mavalli Tiffin Rooms The serpentine queues snaking their way down the street are the measure of this iconic eatery of Bangalore. Its humble setting is no downside for Bangalore’s Mavalli Tiffin Rooms on Lal Bagh Road.Its appeal for thousands of people crossing its threshold lies its clean, hygienic and authentic south India food. Whipping up endless South Indian breakfast/ tiffin’s for a stream of hungry patrons MTR, as its affectionately known, has been bringing in the crowds by MTR. With a five course thali going at to gorge on its pure vegetarian fare for Rs 75 they shouldn’t be at all surprised 01. Private Room at The Leela Palace Jamavar over 85 years now. Not for nothing are at the serpentine queues. And quality 02. Masala Klub at the Taj West End Bangalore MTR’s cuisine referred to as the pride of and hygiene , apart from the delicious 03. Pandi curry Bangalore for millions of fans. food, has been MTR’s mainstay… 04. Rava Idli one of the specialities served by MTR The eatery features three different (Many a fancier restaurant has fallen by 05. Shavige areas of business; the ground floor is for the wayside on compromising in this meals on the go….the other two are sit- area!!!). It was the first Indian restaurant down options. The menu for that day’s to introduce steam sterilization—way India’s culinary lunch is chalked up on a board by the back in 1951. Those visiting the city billing counter. Each patron is guided have have started stocking up on its repertoire is as to their table in the eatery so it’s pretty vegetarian snack foods and chips, soups, organized despite the swelling crowds frozen foods, ready-to-eat meals, spices rich and varied outside. On weekends expect to wait a powders, pickles, vermicelli; MTR also couple of hours to get a table…Its only supplies a selection of 30-odd varieties as her cultural about the good food…not about the of ice cream. For people living in the décor or people watching at the three United States, United Kingdom, Australia, offerings storied MTR!!! Clean and inexpensive, Canada, Singapore, Malaysia, Japan and MTR continues to be Bangalore’s hottest other Asian countries MTR Foods Ltd AND integral and speediest eatery. has become familiar for its exported From the early morning walkers and canned foods, Ready to Eat Foods and to this is the joggers heading back home from the its spices. nearby Lal Bagh Gardens — to the Address: Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR), offerings of office goers— MTR’s the Mecca for hot #11, Lalbagh Road, Bangalore. Tel: 080- and fresh idlis, kesari bhath, dosas and 22220022. Timings: Tuesday to Sunday the southern mouth-searing hot coffee to wash it all 6:30am-noon, 12:30-2:30pm, and 7:30- down. Don’t miss the rava idli invented 9pm. Mondays closed. stat es

24 25 HRH Princess Maha Chakri visits Nalanda, Bodh Gaya and Kohima In an interview with IN Magazine, the recently appointed Indian Ambassador to Thailand, H.E. Mr Harsh Vardhan Shringla, shares how India and Thailand have much in common

our Excellency since on President Pranab Mukherjee and The Festival consists of a your arrival in January Vice President Hamid Ansari and met Buddhist Dance and Exhibition; much has happened Minister for External Affairs Salman performance of the Ramayana by between India and Khurshid. She graced the Angami the famous Kalakshetra troupe; Thailand—most premier festival Sekrenyi as the chief presentation of the refined Ysignificant the recent visit of HRH guest at the Naga Heritage Village, ‘Chettinad’ cuisine of South Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn’s Kisama. India at the Indian Food Festival; to India. Please share with us the Thailand has been steadfast in its performances of a folk dance highlights of this visit? support for the establishment of troupe from the state of Nagaland It is for me a singular honour to Nalanda University and HRH Princess in North Eastern India; and an have been appointed the envoy of Mahachakri Sirindhorn is a member outreach to the youth through my government to the Kingdom of of the Executive Board of the Advisory Yoga and BOLLYFIT. We are very Thailand, a country with which we have Committee for the University. This appreciative of and happy with the traditionally enjoyed the closest of ties. is yet another example of our tremendous response the Festival India and Thailand share a friendly and multifaceted relationship with Thailand. has received from Thai citizens comprehensive partnership based on and the local media. This reflects civilizational exchanges and people-to- The Embassy has organised a the inherent interest on India people contacts. “Festival of India” in Thailand among the Thai public. We had the opportunity to host HRH from 19-31 March. What are the Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, who objectives of the event? Festivals like these are always is a close and special friend of India’s, The ‘Festival of India in Thailand’ known to infuse new life into from 23 to 28 February, 2014. HRH focuses on Indian culture from ties between nations, what Princess Maha Chakri visited Nalanda a historical and contemporary should one expect from this and Bodh Gaya in Bihar, Kohima in perspective. It showcases common one? Nagaland and New Delhi. During the areas of heritage and contemporary India’s traditionally friendly visit, HRH Princess Maha Chakri called ties between India and Thailand. relations with Thailand draw its

26 27 The objective of the Dharma India presents for trade and Darshan, the Buddhist investment opportunities. We are also organizing a Regional Exhibition, is to explore and Hindi conference in Bangkok in association with the Silpakorn illustrate the Buddha’s life University with the participation and teachings as well depict of Hindi scholars from the ASEAN countries and India. We are sacred Buddhist sites in India working on organizing a ‘World Sanskrit Conference’ in Thailand and important artefacts. next year. On the bilateral side, we strength from common values of age- life and teachings as well depict are looking at the early old social and cultural interaction. No sacred Buddhist sites in India and implementation of the Visa on visitor to the bustling city of Bangkok important artefacts. Another section Arrival (VoA) Scheme for our Thai would miss the indelible imprint of our of the Dharma Darshan exhibition is friends, action for which is already ancient links of civilization, culture and a collection of Jataka Tales recounted underway. On the commercial commerce. The timeless message of through illustrated paintings and front, we are hoping to conclude Lord Buddha and the shared lore of the stories. a Free Trade Agreement with Ramayana make us kindred in spirit. Thailand, which would give a In this context, the Festival of India A mix of the elements like boost to our commercial ties. is designed to cater to the interests Bollywood, Henna, Yoga and Regular political exchanges are of various segments of Thai society traditional favourites like Ramayana also being planned for the year. and to showcase common heritage and food are all part of the festival. In all, I would say that the Mission and contemporary ties between the Could you share with us more about has a full calendar ahead. two countries, bringing them closer this aspect of the festival? together. We have brought visual and audio How many Thais are currently treats in the form of the Bharatanatyam visiting India and which As part of the festival we believe Indian classical dance of the Ramayana are their most favourite you are also arranging a ‘Buddhist performed by the eminent Kalakshetra destinations, do you have Exhibition’ and celebrating Foundation from Chennai. Another a target for the number of ‘Buddhist Mahotsav’. Could you highlight is the Warrior Dance (from visitors visiting India as tourists elaborate on this segment of the Nagaland), which depicts might and and for business? festival? power of the victorious Sumi Naga Last year, around 90,000 Thais India looks at Buddhism as a warriors through the ages. visited India. While many Thais shared heritage with Thailand and We will introduce the exquisite visit Buddhist pilgrimage sites, other countries of the region. We are ‘Chettinad’ cuisine through our Food an increasing number are also partnering with the most revered Wat Festival. Chettinad, with its rich showing an interest in other Bovornnivesvihara in organizing the variety of spices and use of coconut, popular destinations of touristic Buddhist Mahotsav (Festival), with has both similarities with Thai Cuisine interest in India. In the coming dance and chants by Buddhist monks and its own uniqueness. The ancient months, we expect an increase from India, a performance the likes of spiritual and health tradition of Yoga in Thai tourists visiting. The VoA which has never taken place before in will be showcased by Indian experts. Scheme and the pilot ‘biometrics/ Thailand. The monks will also present This is complemented by the new age scheme the Mission is introducing their formidable skills in the making of ‘BOLLYFIT’ that is especially designed are expected to facilitate easier a Sand Mandala and Butter Sculptures to appeal to the youth. travel to India. Our Tourism office with images of the Buddha and stories in Singapore also participates in and symbols of Buddha’s life. In In the subsequent months what are tourism promotion opportunities association with the Thai side, we have the other activities that the Mission in Bangkok from time to time. dedicated this aspect of the Festival has planned? to honour of His Holiness Somdej We would be unveiling a series of Many countries have invested Phra Nyanasamvara, the late Supreme political, cultural, commercial and in India and they continue Patriarch of Thailand. people-to-people exchanges this to do so, how would you The objective of the Dharma year. As a beginning, we are having like to promote investment Darshan, the Buddhist Exhibition, is a Business Conclave this month itself opportunities in India to the to explore and illustrate the Buddha’s to introduce the opportunities that business fraternity?

26 Brought out with the support of India Tourism, Singapore27 There has been a significant growth in investments between India and Thailand. The potential is huge as economy is growing and the strengths of Thai companies in infrastructure and hospitality are complementary. India’s infrastructure sector would require investments of about US$ one trillion over the next five years 2013-17 (our 12th Five Year plan) in areas such as highways, ports and power generation. Industries like tourism and hospitality, ports and highways, power generation, food-processing, electronics and ICT hardware and automotive sector are poised for growth. In all these areas, Thai companies have an intrinsic strength and will be welcomed in India. We have already invited Thailand India has to invest in the manufacturing and infrastructure areas, like the Delhi– much Mumbai and Chennai–Bangalore industrial corridors, the Buddhist to offer circuit and the North-East States of India. We are committed to provide all tourists, facilitation required. from nature Thailand has been one of the most What is your message for the travel to adventure favoured destinations for Indians trade of the region? How can they travelling abroad, making a positive further increase the number of sports; from impact on the travel receipts of visitors to India? the country. In your opinion is India has much to offer tourists, religious it a good time for them to visit from nature to adventure sports; Thailand. What is your reading of from religious tourism to leisure tourism the situation of Thailand currently travel; from the desert to snow-filled and do you think it is safe for India mountains; from the back waters to to leisure tourists to visit? the beaches; and different festivals. People-to-people links are central to India has also become a favoured travel; from the relationship between Thailand and destination for medical tourism. Every the desert to India. With over 160 flights per week state in the country has a unique between Bangkok and 10 major Indian flavour to offer visitors. The “Incredible snow-filled cities, air connectivity is excellent. India” campaign has done much to Practically all Indian carriers fly to highlight India’s tourism potential. mountains; Thailand. There is significant tourist For Thai citizens, the launch of the traffic between the two countries. Last ‘Mahaparinirvan Express’ to all major from the year, over million Indian tourists visited Buddhist sites would prove to be a Thailand, making it the most popular major attraction. We are popularizing back waters outbound destination from India. this new facility in Thailand In The Embassy maintains an updated collaboration with the Indian Railways. to the notice on its website for Indian citizens Initiatives like the ‘Festival of India in beaches— visiting or planning to visit Thailand. Thailand’ will do much to promote There has been no perceptible ‘Brand India’. The Indian Embassy and different decrease in the numbers of Indian in Bangkok will seek to be at the tourists travelling to Thailand. forefront of all such efforts. festivals

28 29 Golden Temple Beckons Journey to the

Sikh Heartlands Photo: Incredible India

hile it is not Whether you Sahib at Talwandi Sabo in Bhatinda a religious district. Travelling the five takhts is requirement for are planning a not limited to any particular season. Sikhs to make The Panj Takht Darshan is a special Wpilgrimage, spiritual journeys to the pilgrimage or a tourist train for visiting the takhts; it holy sites of India are proving to be has two departure points - Amritsar increasingly popular with adherents sight-seeing tour of and Delhi. Starting from Delhi, the from around the world. The Golden tour runs for six nights / seven days. Temple in Amiritsar is by far the most some of the finest It runs for four nights/five days from popular destination- but is only one Sikh temples of Amritsar. For more information: of five incredible holy sites, known as www.thespiritualjourneys.com/E- Gurudwaras, or Takhts. The beauty India. Our handy Brochure and significance of these sites, sacred to Sikhs, makes them ideal tourist guide to the Five destinations for believers and non- The Golden believers alike. Takhts will make Temple of Amritsar planning your trip (Akal Takht) The Five Takhts The most important seat of Sikh Of the five Takhts, two are located a breeze! culture and religion is the Golden outside the state of Punjab - Takht Temple in Amritsar – a 400-year old Sri Patna Sahib at Patna in the state By Ranee Sahaney city that derives its name from the of Bihar and Takht Sri Hazur Sahib holy Amrit Sarovar (pool of nectar) at Nanded in Maharashtra. The that surrounds the temple. The gold remaining three are in Punjab - Akal and white structure of this majestic Takht at Amritsar, Sri Keshgarh Sahib shrine is located in the centre of at Anandpur and Sri Damdama Amritsar and is surrounded by one of

28 Brought out with the support of India Tourism, Singapore29 Photo: Incredible India

Photo: Incredible India

(On previous page) The Golden Temple of Amritsar

(On this page, clockwise from top left) Takht Sri Hazoor Sahib; Sri Keshgarh Sahib; Sri Damdama Sahib

Photo: Incredible India

the busiest markets. The shining gold Gobind Singh stayed for nine months steeple of the temple is visible from far and compiled the final edition of Guru off; early morning on weekends, the Granth Sahib in 1705. Sri Hemkund temple is less crowded. Also known Takht Sri Keshgarh Sahib is at as the Harmandir or Darbar Sahib, the Anandpur Sahib near Chandigarh. This Shahib two-storied temple structure is built is the birthplace of the popular order on a 67 sq ft of marble. The Akal Takht of the ‘Khalsa’, or Guru Panth. Himalayan Trek (eternal throne), the supreme seat of Some of the weapons of Guru Sikh religious authority- established Gobind Singh are displayed in Takhat in 1609 by the sixth Sikh guru, Guru Sachkhand Sri Hazur Abchalnagar Hargobind- is located in the Golden Sahib, known popularly as Takht Sri Temple complex. This is the oldest Hazur Saheb: This is is the holy site of the five takhts. While the Golden where Guru Gobind Singh breathed Temple is a place of worship, the his last. Situated on the banks of River takht is a place to discuss secular and Godavari at Nanded in Maharashtra, political matters. The Akal Takht houses here unlike in other Gurudwaras, the the ancient weapons used by the Sikh Guru Granth Sahib is kept in a room The mountain trek to Sri warriors. During the day time, the Guru in front of the sanctum from morning Hemkund Sahib at 4,572 m, is Granth Sahib (holy book of the Sikhs) till evening and moved to the sanctum across one of the most exotic is kept in the Golden Temple, while at only for the night. regions of the Himalayas. A night it is kept in the Akal Takht. The Takht Sri Patna Sahib in Patna is the popular centre of Sikh pilgrimage, ‘Guru Ka Langar’ is located near the birthplace of Guru Gobind Singh where the sacred journey is completed eastern entrance of the temple and he spent his early childhood. This Takht when, pilgrims take the ishnan offers free food to all visitors. Before is considered to be the centre from (holy bath) in the sacred waters entering the temple you have to cover which Sikhism was propagated in the of Hemkund. One can visit the your head and remove your shoes. eastern part of the country. Historical Valley of Flowers in the journey The Takht Sri Damdama Sahib is displays here include a ‘pangura’ to Hemkund Sahib where the located in the village of Talwandi Sabo (cradle), four iron arrows, a sacred mythical ‘flower of the gods’ can near Bhatinda. It was here that Guru sword and a pair of the guru’s sandals. be seen. It blooms at midnight and once in 14 years! Above are excerpts from India Tourism Singapore’s publication India A Spiritual Journey. Travel agents wishing to receive copies please contact [email protected]

30 31 Travel Trade Fairs & Events India Goa International Travel Mart (GITM) www.goatravelmart.in Date: 2 – 4 April 2014 Venue: Dr. Shyama Prasad Mukerjee Stadium, Taleigao An annual feature in the state’s business calendar the Goa International Travel Mart plays a pivotal role in showcasing the finest elements of Goa’s tourism David Vely (Senior Vice President recommended for Chinese state attractions— both old and new. It also Development-MEAI, Premier Inn/ owned enterprises, this much -awaited provides an excellent platform for people Whitbread) , Diana L Nelson Chairman, event will be ideal for local and from the travel trade, the hospitality Carlson, Gerald Lawless (President and international participants to discover industry and a host of other stake holders Group CEO Jumeirah Group), Ingo the attractions of the Chinese business in the tourism and travel sector, for Schweder (Chief Executive Officer, travel market, expected to become direct interface with their counterparts GOCO Hospitality) and Kapil Chopra the largest in the world by 2016. from home and abroad. This year the (President, The Oberoi Group). New highlights at the GBTA China Goa Pavilion will showcase festivals and Conference 2014 include, Speed nightlife, beaches, heritage trails, UNESCO TTF Guwahati 2014 introduction session for all buyers and Heritage sites, Wild life, Medical tourism, Date: 27 - 29th June 2014 suppliers; introductory tour of buyers Monsoon tourism, MICE, Wedding Venue: Guwahati, India to meet the exhibitors and a Raffle. Destination, Spice Farms and Adventure. To be held in Guwahati (Assam) from June 27 to 29 TTF Guwahati 2014 ITE & MICE 2014 - The HICSA 2014 provides India’s Northeast states an 28th International www.hicsaconference.com excellent platform to showcase many Travel Expo Hong Date: 2-3 Apr 2014 of their fabulous tourist attractions for Kong & The 9th M.I.C.E Venue: Grand Hyatt, Mumbai the domestic, outbound and inbound Travel Expo Celebrating its tenth anniversary the tourism markets. Date: 12 - 15 June, 2014 annual HICSA 2014 (Hotel Investment Venue: Hong Kong SAR, China Conference-South Asia ) to be held in To be held at the Hong Kong Mumbai from 2 to 3 April offers a slew Convention and Exhibition Centre , in of opportunities for furthering business Asia the Hong Kong , China, the ITE & MICE associations and facilitating networking 2014 - The 28th International Travel for the top decisions makers of the GBTA Conference 2014, Expo Hong Kong, and The 9th MICE hospitality industry. HICSA traditionally Shanghai Travel Expo, from June 12-15,2014, will attracts a diverse presence of hoteliers, Date: 31 March 2014 - 2 April 2014 focus on the travel themes of Cruise, investors, developers, architects and Venue: Shanghai, China Honeymooning & Overseas Weddings, designers from across the globe. To be hosted at the Jin Jiang Hotel Sports Tourism, Study Tours, Travel Confirmations are pouring in from in the historic environs of Shanghai Photography, Wellness. The second day the global hospitality community for city the GBTA Asia annual China of the event has been designated as attendance at the conference. Notable Conference will be held between MICE / CORPORATE DAY marked by a speakers at the conference include 31 March - 2 April 2014. Now series of related seminars.

30 Brought out with the support of India Tourism, Singapore31 Feature Khajjiar

Where to Go Nagini for Summer Astrologer, Ranjana Rana, consults the stars for the perfect gateaway for this year’s summer season in India

enjoying the simple pleasures of a farm Aries stay. Learn all about the intriguing (March 21- April 20) process of cheese making — and even You are a fire sign who needs a list try your hand at milking a cow. of things to do to hold your interest. You would enjoy a city that has a variety of leisure activities to offer Gemini such as, shows, nice restaurants and (May 22- June 21) shopping. You will not be bored Your short attention span means you with a holiday in Mumbai where you get bored very easily. So any vacation can enjoy all these and even take a you plan needs to have a little bit of short break outside the city say to everything. Retreat to the jungles in Mahabaleshwar hill station. Masinagudi and you will find just that. Located in the foothills of the Nilgiris this resort shares the boundary with Taurus the outer reaches of the Mudumalai (April 21- May 21) jungle in Tamil Nadu and blends You are an earth sign and being seamlessly with surrounding greenery “one” with nature appeals to you. and wilderness. Airy villas and cottages, For example in Coonoor there’s a cheery bar and dining hall serve drinks the option of a wild organic cheese plus delicious home cooked food. There making farm stay. This is a 22-acre are night safaris, jungle walks and treks family run farm where guests can into the inner reaches of the reserve. unwind and take in the beautiful You can go bird watching and click Nilgiris in all their glory while also Astrologer Ranjana Rana pictures of exotic birds.

32 33 Kangra Valley Feature Libra Capricorn (September 24- October 23) (December 23- January 20) Places of beauty plus serenity draw Historical places with upscale the Libra sign. Shopping, dancing, accommodation interest most people and fine dining are a must. Ri Kynjai, under this sign. Explore heritage cities a serene resort on the outskirts of like Jaipur (with Amer Fort) and shop Shillong overlooks the lovely Umiam till you drop in the early summer. Lake. A haven of peace, tranquility Enjoy a stay in a historic water palace and comfort Ri Kynjai features native at Udaipur even in the height of Cancer Khasi-style architecture and boasts all summer as in these desert enclaves the (June 22- July 22) mod cons. It is an excellent base for evenings and mornings are cooler. Being a water sign you feel at treks and walks, with plenty of views of home near lakes and oceanfront. Go gorgeous mountain vistas and sunrises Himalayan trout fishing in the beautiful and sunsets. The food is an interesting Aquarius Tirthan Valley in Kullu, in Himachal array of north and eastern specialties (January 21 – February 19) Pradesh. The Himalayan trout fishing including pork with bamboo shoot of Aquarians are very spiritual. You like camp is truly a getaway from it all. You local herbs. Beautiful Khasi , jewellery, to visit places you have never been can fish, feast on trout, sip your tea with shawls and mufflers to be bought from before. Many of you like to travel in the river gurgling by just below you— the local shop vendors. groups with friends. Kalimpong in and even strum on a guitar. Go on long Eastern Himalayas is a serene retreat walks, write, read, or just stare at the and offers picturesquely located mountains. With such pristine beauty Scorpio Victorian-era hotels to stay in. You all around you, it is an alluring summer (Oct 24- November 22) can get views of the Kanchendzonga getaway you will want to return to. Scorpio is a water sign so a place Mountain from these hotel rooms on near water is a super idea. Trekking in clear days. There are some also some the Namik-Ram Ganga valley in the impressive Buddhist monasteries at Leo Himalayas is just the thing for you. several places in Kalimpong which you (July 23- August 21) Surrounded by the mighty Nanda Devi can visit. Leo signs love adventure and and Trishul peaks with plenty of local mountain climbing. You can enjoy villages, temples and trails to challenge paragliding camps in Ranikhet or and entertain avid climbers who like to Pisces Naukuchiatal in the Kumaon Hills where flee from the city. (February 20 – March 20) you can learn enough to dare a solo Pisces are fish so anywhere there is a flight by the end of the course over the fresh body of water you’ll find a Pisces hills. Kamshet in Maharashtra is also a Sagittarius type. Pleasant weather and abundance good option for adventure activities like (November 23- December 22) of greenery plus its hillside location paragliding and trekking. The anchor also loves to travel. Your have led locals and tourists to label love of the outdoors could take you Haflong in Assam as the Switzerland mountain climbing and hiking through of the east. Visitors can take a flight to Virgo the countryside of Kodaikanal which is Shillong and then hire a car and take (August 22 –September 23) rich with lush greenery and towering hills. the picturesque and winding route by Since you are the worker of the You can go trekking in the woods or feel train through beautiful flower dotted Zodiac it is very important to make and the thrill of downhill cycling or a walk in countryside from Guwahati. Haflong take time for yourself. So resort spa the spice garden. After an exciting day ringed by hills a perfusion of streams; in the hills to rejuvenate body, mind settle for an evening of traditional board forests, rivers and birds make it a and soul is a good option. Himachal games or shake a leg at a salsa session. perfect breakaway for the Pisces. Pradesh where you can be pampered for a change would be apt for you. Basunti, a yoga retreat, is located by the banks of the Maharana Pratap Sagar. About the Author The reservoir of the Pong Dam is a Ranjana Rana holds a PHD in Astrology and she has also studied Numerology, natural reserve with an array of flora Vastu and Fengshui. A Reiki Grandmaster and Pranic Healing teacher, Ranjana and fauna. The retreat with its pleasant also reads Tarot Cards. In addition to this she is also a past-life regression fruit orchards offers open air yoga classes, swimming, fishing, painting and therapist and innerchild and breathwork facilitator. Ranjana travels a lot as a meditation and other leisure activities. consultant and she also uses her expertise to provide an astrological guide to This is a holistic place to unwind and the best possible places to go for a particular time of the year. refresh the body and mind.

32 33 & spa Wellness Photos: Soukya Holistic Health Centre Photos:

oukya was in the news last October when the Camilla Parker Bowles, the Duchess of Cornwall T and wife of Prince Charles visited the facility in Bangalore. SOUKYA Their visit also coincided with the First International Conference of the College of Medicine in association with in the Spotlight the Soukya Foundation in November on the theme ‘Global Health Futures - Creating Integrated Solutions to the Epidemic of Long Term Disease.’ Again HRH The Prince of Wales in a message for the conference said, ““For a very long time I have admired the ancient Bangalore’s Soukya Health Centre provides traditions of healing in the east which fresh perspectives on Eastern and Western has been developed over literally thousands of years of observation preventive and acute health care and application.” He singled out his appreciation especially for Dr Isaac when it comes to treatment I always this whole issue of lifestyle more Mathai, founder of Soukya, who has advocated what I can only call the Best seriously.” organised and hosted the conference of Both Worlds: the best of alipathic Soukya one of the first holistic health with the College of Medicine as well treatment and the best of traditional centres of its kind in the world - a as the Indian Government and State and complementary approaches where residential integrative medical centre Government of Karnataka. ever they are safe, appropriate and with a focus on holistic healing. It He also added, “It has always been supported by evidence. is owned and managed by world my contention that the West has a “Here in India it is so inspiring to see renowned holistic health practitioner, lot to learn from the East and vice- both traditions standing side-by-side. Dr Issac Mathai M.D.(Hom), versa. Of course, modern medicine has That could only be good for patients M.R.C.H.(Lond) and his wife, Suja Issac completely revolutionised the care of a too - particularly for patient choice. M.Sc., M.Phil.(Foods & Nutrition), a large number of serious conditions with Too often in the West I fear, we resort nutritionist. India leading the way in many areas of to tablets and medical procedures for All doctors on the team at the centre conventional treatment. Nevertheless, problems that might be improved or are said to be medically qualified in we also need to retain the best of prevented by better management of their respective system of medicines the healing wisdom that preceded it; personal health and lifestyle. Plus I fail and have good knowledge, training, wisdom that was invariably developed to see any health system can remain experience and above all, passionate over countless generations. That is why financially sustainable unless we take about their work.

34 35 Photos: Soukya Holistic Health Centre Holistic Healing Endorsement The Conference was a ringing Many visitors to the centre including Soukya is spread across 30 acres of endorsement for the path of holistic medical professionals never fail to land with organic farms of vegetables, healing offered in many of the health register how different it is from fruits and herbs and where even spas and wellness centres offered in western medicine in that it is a highly certain oils are pressed, so food is India and explained how the ancient individual treatment compared able to be served fresh. A connection Indian healing systems have enjoyed to more highly impersonal one in with all things natural and with nature so much popularity in the West, western medicine. A full holistic is promoted here. He said it takes at personages from Desmond Tutu to workup and treatments specific to least two days stay before one finds Deepak Chopra. Dr Mathai said, “I a condition are carried out – from the “rhythm of this lifestyle.” The have always believed that the healing teaching of yoga, oil and herbs grounds boast of natural fauna and treatment should be person oriented treatments, reflexology to individual flora with birds and butterflies. and not system oriented. When a diet regimes. The Soukya Holistic Health and patient comes to me, a minimum of Isaac Mathai hails from a family Ayurdeva Treatment Centre was one to three hours is spent with them which has practised traditional awarded the Best Wellness Centre in order to provide a solution to make homeopathic medicine over 40 years. at a recent India National Tourism the person fit. Quality, honesty and He had practiced in Europe for 10 Awards and Dr Mathai was also integrity – all the three qualities are years before he opened the Bangalore quoted as saying, “Internationally, required when treating a patient. I am Holistic Medical Centre in 1989 while Indian traditional medicine has been doing nothing new, it is ancient Indian Soukya commenced operations 13 acknowledged and this makes me very magic at work.” years later. happy. I am, after all, a proud Indian.”

34 35 spa & Wellness

yurvedic medicine, also known as Ayurveda, is one of the world’s oldest A holistic (whole- body) healing systems. Derived Wellness from its ancient Sanskrit roots — the new high `ayus’ (life) and `ved’ (knowledge) — offers a rich, comprehensive The science and scenic setting of Ayurveda outlook to a healthy life; its origins go back nearly 5,000 years. Ayurveda was expounded and By Ranee Sahaney practiced by spiritual rishis, who laid the foundations of the Vedic • Pitta dosha: This is where the Fire treatments can be for general health civilisation in India. They organised element dominates. and wellness, or— catered toward the fundamentals of life into • Kapha dosha: This is where the treating a specific ailment. Some of proper systems. Earth and Water elements dominate. the well-known treatments that assure Ayurveda offers a unique blend radiance and invigoration include: of science and philosophy that An Ayurvedic physician takes into balances the physical, mental, consideration these doshas to measure emotional and spiritual components the equilibrium levels of the body Abhyanga necessary for holistic health. —and accordingly a wellness path is The Abhyanga therapy treats the The best thing about Ayurvedic organised. For each element, there whole body physically, mentally and treatments is that they are is a balanced and out of balance emotionally while balancing the individualistic. The treatments are expression. An important goal of doshas. Its rhythmic motion helps to based on the five elements of the Ayurveda is to identify a person’s relieve joints and muscles from stiffness universe — Earth, Fire, Water, Air ideal state of balance, determine and makes all body movements free. and Space. According to Ayurveda, where they are out of balance, and each person will be influenced offer interventions using diet, herbs, by certain elements more than aromatherapy, massage treatments, Shirodhara others. This is because of their music, and meditation to re-establish This is a powerful ayurvedic prakriti, or natural constitution. this balance. treatment that calms the nervous Ayurveda categorises the different Spa treatments that are based on system and restores the body’s natural constitutions into three different Ayurvedic knowledge work at a very ability to heal. Lukewarm oil is poured doshas: deep level to thoroughly cleanse in a continuous stream onto the • Vata dosha: This is where the air the body of toxins and remove forehead, while one receives a gentle and space elements dominate. physiological imbalances. The massage on the head.

36 37 Snehana Therapy Snehana is a warm oil therapy that is applied to the person seeking Ayurvedic solutions to health. Snehana means ‘love’ and through this nourishing, nurturing, warming therapy the vata dosha is brought back into balance. It is also called the ‘potli massage’ or ‘herbal pouch treatment.’ Swedhana Swedhana is a traditional steam therapy designed to open tissues with Ayurveda Spa the saturation of heat and moisture. Tours & Packages Once the tissues are open, deep-seated toxins can be released through the pores of the skin, thereby reducing Healthy ways to slim down inflammation, improving circulation, and promoting healing and restoration. yurveda forms an intrinsic part of the wellness and beauty regime in India. From massages and specialized diets to rigorous transformations in lifestyle, the ayurveda experience has been Udwarthanama A designed keeping in mind the individual’s desire to heal, cleanse, This is a typical deep and dry relax and revitalize. Delight your senses and let your skin be renewed with this massage using herbal powders. The unique experience. Your skin will feel soft, refreshed and detoxified. dry powder massage helps to reduce This is a safe and scientific weight management programme using a unique blood cholesterol and obesity, while diagnostic tool, the body composition monitor, to formulate customised imparting mobility to the joints and treatment based on each person’s body type and needs. Treatment is strengthening the muscles. supplemented with an expertly designed diet and exercise plan to so that weight loss is safe, sure and lasting. A month-long spa vacation can help you to reduce as much as 8 to 10 kg. You can customize the duration. Panchakarma Detoxify your body and refresh your senses with this Ayurveda Spa Tour after Panchakarma (five actions) is a your arrival at Thiruvanathapuram City via Trivandrum International Airport. A cleansing and rejuvenating program short 10 km drive will take you to beautiful Kovalam Beach. Start your day with for the body, mind and consciousness. udwartanam, swedanam and internal oileation. This will be followed by meals It is known for its beneficial effects and herbal medication according to doctor’s advice. A yoga session in the on overall health, wellness and self- evening followed by pranayam classes (breathing exercise) by expert Yogacharya healing. The Panchakarma therapeutic by the picturesque Kovalam Beach will bring you to a most relaxed blissful state. process appears quite simple in its This schedule is for the initial three days. application. However, its effects are Kick off your fourth day with major therapeutic detox regimes such as powerful and effective. vamanam or virechana (colonic cleansing). This day, complete fasting is Panchakarma is a unique, natural, recommended where there will be no breakfast, lunch or dinner. Rest should be holistic, health-giving series of taken the whole day with evening classes of yoga and pranayama will induce therapeutic treatments that cleanses holistic well-being. the body’s deep tissues of toxins, For the next three days, after special breakfast, there will be a routine of opens the subtle channels, and udavartanam and swedanam in the morning and yoga and pranayam in the brings life-enhancing energy thereby evening. increasing vitality, inner peace, During the next four days the morning will start with udawartana, sweadanam, confidence and well-being. It is virechana (colonic cleansing). There will be a special healing diet schedule. Yoga important to note that the expertise and pranayam classes will be conducted in the evening. and guidance of a Panchakarma In the next two weeks along with a similar routine of udavartanam and specialist is a must for the diagnosis swedanam, you will also start with different types of basti. Yoga and pranayam and therapy for optimal results. classes will be held in the evening. The last days of the slimming programme will include morning abhayanga, Above are excerpts from India swedanam and nasyam. Yoga and pranayam classes will be held in the Tourism Singapore’s publication The evening. Ayurveda and yoga expert will provide consultations on lifestyle, food Wellness Destination. Travel agents supplement and herbal medicines. wishing to receive copies please Ayurveda Spa Tours are available in Goa, Kerala and other places. To know contact [email protected] more log on to: http://www.travelspiritualindia.com/ayurveda.htm

36 37 Search of

Ladakh – Where the Earth Meets the Sky Photos by Sugato Mukherjee Going off the beaten track is nothing new for Kolkata-based professional photographer Sugato. But he has a special affinity for Ladakh. In fact, he has published a coffee table book on the Land of the High Passes that has received much critical acclaim. Natural Wonders Photos by Ratna Singh She works in the protected national parks of Madhya Pradesh and wakes up surrounded by nature and shares sights not often seen by others outside the parks.

Racing & Respect Horse racing is a prestigious sport among the nomadic Changpa tribesmen ugato Mukherjee by S ugato P hotos between goodandevilfeatures inmonasticfestivals of Ladakh the eternal strife The Chaamdance thattraditionallyportrays Cham Dance same time. striking resemblance to thePotala Palace of Lhasabuiltaround the LehPalace thatoverlooks thecityofThe 17thcentury Lehhasa Leh Palace

Photos by Sugato Mukherjee Photos by Sugato Mukherjee the distanceassilentbystanders P Silent Sentinels erched atop steep loomin inclinesancientmonasteries Life inthiscold,barren landfollowsanaustere, Monastic Rhythm monastic rhythm

Photos by Sugato Mukherjee Photos by Sugato Mukherjee A shepherd boysetsoff withhisherd inChangthangHighlands Free Wheeling A monkstandsamidsthiscolourof solitudeinLamayuru In HisShadow

Photos by Sugato Mukherjee Photos by Sugato Mukherjee Sun Life Sunlight given an ethereal form through a forest hotos by R atna S ingh P hotos

Grouse with a Grouse A literal bird’s eye view of a sand grouse with an attitude hotos by R atna S ingh P hotos Reclaimed by Nature Reclaimed by nature – the remains of a temple by the river hotos by R atna S ingh P hotos

Primal Dawn Morning view at a breakfast stop on a tiger safari. hotos by R atna S ingh P hotos South Asia Select HittingBANGLADESH the Heritage & Nature Trails A booming economy has led to greater development of its tourism assets. Featured in this issue are the best of its cultural heritage and nature sites

2 Dhaka The delightful atmospherics of yesteryear hang deep and strong in the spaghetti lanes of the Old Quarter of Bangladesh’s capital city of Dhaka. Though its fast becoming an actively modern city in recent years…it past merges comfortably with its new avatar in the thickened environs of Old Dhaka. Rickety rickshaws wind their way through thickly crowded vistas then merge periodically into somnolent patches of neigbourhoods, with their sunny courtyards, that still favour the slow-paced ambience which allows breathing space to resident and visitor alike.

1

44 45 (Opposite page) 01. National Monument of Bangladesh in Dhaka 02. (inset) National Parliament of Bangladesh in Dhaka

(This page) 03. Royal Bengal Tiger at Sunderbands

The Sunderbans One of the largest mangrove forests 3 in the world, the Sunderbans lies partly in Bangaldesh and partly in India’s West Bengal region. Home to the Chawri Bazaar is the place to start Royal Bengal Tiger, the Sunderban’s your journey of this ancient hub going Paharpur is a world of surreal splendour and back at least four centuries if not more. The lush hills of Paharpur hold its unique eco-sytem has played a Remember to take home swatches of many secrets; the serene vistas are still pivotal role in the survival abilities of gorgeous fabrics stacked high in the deeply imbued with its linkages with its wilderness inhabitants and plant life. shops here. Vignettes of the old fort the past. One of the most important You can catch a boat from Kochi Khali Lalbager Killa or the Fort of Lalbag can archeological finds have been the manned by fishermen who are deeply be espied from various points as you ruins of the Buddhist site of Paharpur familiar with these unique environs. wind your way deeper and deeper into ,just 270km away from Dhaka, at Good sightings can be enjoyed of the quarter’s shadowy reaches. The Shia Naogaon. Often called the “land of dolphins, varieties of deer, wild hog etc. devotees of Islam revere Hoseni Dalan. monasteries” Paharpur truly lives up The motor launch which takes you calls Overlooking a small lake it offers its to the legend for it has many sites on Deemer Char - the egg island—so serenity as a delightful counterpoint scattered in close proximity dating named because it is egg-shaped. to the bustling bazaar. Marked by a to the early Buddhist times. Many of At low tide the island is linked to pleasant pink wash the mansion, also these have not even been opened the main forest and animals come called the Pink Palace, used to be the up for deeper explorations. The here to graze or drink water. From residence of a nawab. It now serves as Somapura Mahavihara, one of the here you can journey on to Kotka and the National Museum. most significant, is a UNESCO World then the stunning Badamtoli Beach, A delightful fusion of Mughal and Heritage-acclaimed site (1986).This 7th which is simply breathtaking. You can gothic architecture, it is one of the century site is set in the embrace of stay the night at the Jamtoli Tower. If country’s most significant structures of about 27 acres. The great mound lies you get lucky you might catch sight historical interest. The lively past and in a courtyard over 900 feet in length of Mama - the local name for the lavish lifestyle of it Nawabi days are still and 12-15 feet high. The gateway to Royal Bengal Tiger. The tower offers reflected in the interiors which you can the site is an elaborate one. The site fabulous views of this astonishing tour. The surrounds of the Buriganga features 45 cells on the north and 44 region. The journey takes you further River are a bustling world of country cells each on the other three sides of on to Dublar Char (start at the end of and ferryboats, motor launches, etc. the rectangular courtyard. South East high tide to get to the island in the It makes for some lovely photops. On Asian influences, in particular those of shortest possible time). Dublar Char is offer too are night safaris on the several Myanmar and Java are reflected in the a popular island with fishermen from steamers anchored here architecture of the pyramidal cruciform Shatkhira who come here to fish. It is You can travel from Sadarghat, with temple. There’s a museum here which one of the biggest producers of dry its delightful port-side ambience to the display artifacts recovered form the fish in the country. En route to Khulna more serene vistas of Bahadur Shah site; some of these are also housed stop at Harbaria, an eco-park—home Park,—the old Victoria Park. There’s a in the Varendra Research Museum in to reptiles, alligators, tigers, and memorial to martyrs killed during the Rajshahi. Getting there: Buses and varieties of deer Alligators are bred at 1857 uprising against the British. Carry taxis are available from Dhaka. To the Korom Jol canal. Getting there: on to the pretty Armenian Church, one reach the site head for Bogra town, Trains are available from Dhaka to of the oldest in the region. visit Mahasthangarh and stay at the Khulna. Other options are motorboat Getting there: Dhakla International Parjatan Hotel at night and then hire and steamer. You can also fly to Jessore Aiport is well connected by national and a taxi to get to Paharpur via Joypurhat from where the airline bus will take you international carriers. the next day. to Khulna, about 30 km south.

44 45 South Asia Select

Gowanighat Upazila, is a popular tourist spot located along the Bangladesh border with the Indian state of Meghalaya. Getting there: Osmani International Airport, which is north of the city, is the third busiest airport of the country. It is served by Biman Bangladesh Airlines, United Airways and GMG Airlines. Sonargaon A freedom fighter, a brave and a visionary, the Sultan Isha Khan, leader of the Baro (12 Bhuyiyas) in Bengal took on the might of the soldiers 4 of Man Singh, the Rajput general of Mughal Emperor Akbar, to repel his onslaught on his beloved land. From that silvery, mystical wash on the sea his capital of Sonargaon, located Cox’s Bazaar and sand. In the winter the beach wears on the Grand Trunk Road, built by This haven for beachgoers seems a gay mood of another kind. Hordes Chandra Gupta Maurya, he fought to have been re-discovered, judging of enthusiasts dot the sands with their each battle with increasing fervour. from the number of foreigners and beautiful and innovative kites at the Sonargaon, a culturally and historically domestic tourists and local residents various kite festivals held here and which significant city, today is on the World storming its gorgeous expanses of attract experts from around the country. Monuments Fund’s 2008 Watch List of unspoiled sands (its acclaimed to be Cox’s Bazar is a stunning gateway for the 100 Most Endangered Sites on this one of the world’s natural wonders and Maheshkhali, Himchhori, Penchar Island, planet, because of the many threats to the longest beaches). The beachside etc. Do pick up local souvenirs from the preservation including flooding and itself is a riot of mushrooming shops lining the beach. The Burmese vandalism. executive level hotels, lounges, clubs, market is another magnet for shoppers. The rich atmopsherics of one of restaurants and cafes. The long Getting there: Most airlines serve Cox’s the finest towns of the independent arm of modernization has reached Bazar with convenient departure times. Sultan’s of Bengal Sonargaon is a treat out and gathered this wondrous for the history buff as you work your hub into its embrace with a slew of way around those dilapidated structures adrenalin thumping activities which Sylhet from that colourful era. Its become run the gamut of surfing, speedboat Though Sylhet is a bustling popular for film shoots. Check out the riding, watersports. Given the hype commercial city it also offers travelers Folk Arts and Crafts Museum with its and attention this beach resort has the allure of its luxuriant natural vistas. exhibits from the days of the Sultans. generated the authorities are working The city is home to the shrines Hazrat Sonargaon was also visited by the apace to ensure issues like hygiene, Shah Jalal and Hazrat Shah Poran, legendary Moroccan traveller Ibn Batuta security, pollution, sanitation etc. which attract thousands of devotees. in the 14th century. Getting there: Hire If you are looking to escape the This is tea country and drives around a taxi from Dhaka, 15 miles away. raucous spirit of the beach area here the plantation expanses offer beautiful during the peak of the tourist season serene moments with nature in the area you may well enjoy the quietude of the near Maulvi Bazaar with its 90-odd tea St. Martin’s nearby beaches of Kolatoli or Himchori estates and rich tropical forests. The stiil solitary and pristine in comparison. region has many ethnic settlements Island Soak in the atmospherics of long of the Manipuri, Khasia and Tripura One of the prettiest places to walks by the beach, the spectacular communities. Kamalganj, Sreemangal spend many leisure hours is the sunrises and sunsets but if you are in and Kulaura, offer vignettes of tribal picturesque setting of St Martin’s the mood you can hire a surf board life. Travel on to Baralekha Upazilla island. The ethereal splendor of its and savor the thrill of a battle with the and get bowled over by the majesty of azure surrounds, the lush foliage waves. Evening spins out with parties at the Madhabkunda, Falls, the biggest of the isle itself and the laid back the beachside cafes, delicious meals of waterfall in Bangladesh, which flls from ambiance all lend themselves to the fresh sea-food and a full moon night. a height of 200ft. lotus-eaters life. Sequestered along Let Nature bewitch you afresh with Jaflong, 60 km from Sylhet ,in the stunning expanses of the Bay of

46 47 Bengal, about 9km south of the tip of the Cox’s Bazar-Teknaf peninsula, this is has a Licence to Thrill Bangladesh’s sole coral island. Locally it’s called Narikel Jingira, or ‘Coconut Island. Winters are best to explore this lovely world of coral and sea, where the waters seem to constantly change their 5 hues. By night the starry heavens seem as enchanting as do the lavish sunrises on the island. A stroll along the Chhera Dwip comes highly recommended. A speedboat ride offers another way to explore the surrounds by the sea. The resort on the island offers delicious sea food. Getting there: From Dhaka to Cox’s Bazar to Teknaf you can travel by taxi or bus.. From Teknaf boats take you to the island Mainamati, Comila 6 Steeped in historic finds Mainamati, can be found just 8km from Comilla. It has become a magnet for those of the Buddhist faith as well as history Bandarban and culture buffs over time. It is This serene enclave can be found in Bangladesh’s biggest repository of close proximity of three of Bangladesh’s Buddhist archeological sites from highest mountain peaks Tajio Dong, ancient times. The hilly region is closely Modok Muwal and Keo Karadong. linked to Lalmai, renowned for being Bandarban is a delightful tribal enclave identified as the Lalambi vana of the offering visitor’s an interesting diversion Chandra epigraphs. Local ballads from Bangladesh’s more modern avatar. and folk songs refer to legendry Steeped in traditions of deep antiquity Chandra queen Maynamati. Step into these 15 communities continue to the museum here to browse the vast reflect their rich cultural heritage even collection of artifacts of copperplate in today’s fast changing world. Do visit coins, terracotta, bronzes and stone the local bazaar here. sculptures. Kutial Mura, one of the A visit to the Buddha Dhatu Jadi, highest mounds of archeological the country’s largest Buddhist temple interest here, offers visuals of should be on your agenda. It is just decorative architectural nuances 4 km from the town at Balaghata. It while Charpatra Mura is believed gilded decorations have earned it the to be one of the oldest reflections name’ Golden Temple’. This Theravada of Hindu temple architecture in Buddhist temple is renowned for Bangaldesh. Ananda Vihara is the being home to Bangladesh’s second biggest monument here. It is located largest statue of Buddha. The Shoilo in the Kotbari area and is a collection Propat Waterfall is another popular 7 of stupas, viharas and smaller shrines. tourist hotspot at Milanchari, which Queen Maynamati’s Palace Mound has many Buddhist shrines. Local taxis (Opposite page) is even bigger and higher than the are available for trips to the Tiger 04. Cox’s Bazar Anand Vihara and can bee seen east of Hills where tourists come to take in (This page) Brahmanbari Road here. Getting there: the sights and sunset views. Getting 05. Saint Martin’s Island The Dhaka Chittagong Highway has there: Taxis and buses are available (Photo: Shovon) 06. Tea plantation at Jaflong, Sylhet eased conditions to get from Dhaka to for explorations of the region from 07. Buddha Dhatu Jadi, Bandarban Comilla and on to Mainamati. Chittagong. (Photo: Shimul Kanti Barua)

46 47 The Accidental Tourist No Strangers in Chennai Unexpected middle-east roots in east southern Tamil Nadu villages

dam Ihson, is just 28 but runs his own business trading in medical supplies some of them from India. BeingA his own boss, he sometimes tries to arrange trips back to his family’s home town in Chennai for business and personal matters. Last November, he also decided to take a trip down the southern coastal region. The Singaporean travelled to his ancestral village of Koothanallur to visit Sri Karaneeswarar Temple, Mylapore, Chennai his maternal grandmother. The village is an hour’s drive from the nearest city, Tiruchiappalli. November is a Outside influences places along the coast that have such good time to go he says as it is cooler He set off on a journey south and interesting stories behind them.” between November and February and found, “The thing that I enjoyed most Adam first visited India in 2000 but much more preferable to experiencing from travelling here was meeting the he said, “This was something I did not the region’s harsh summer sun. people and interacting with them. I expect at all to see on the trip – such Although most of his family was surprised by the many outside a large level of Arabic presence in this members are no longer residing there, influences the places along the east part of India” Adam says it is still important for him southern region have. For example, Another interesting stop was to connect to his roots, “However, in my village, there are many cultural Kayalpatnam which was visited by there is not much to do there. The influences from Turkey as they Marco Polo! Kayalpatnam (also known rural part is especially extra rural. You (Turks) were the first settlers here as Kayalpattinam or Korkai) is a town still have bullock carts sharing the and that is why it is a predominantly in the Tuticorin district of Tamil Nadu. roads with other vehicles as it is still a muslim village. I discovered there Kayal was referred to in Marco Polo’s very convenient mode of transport. But were other places where there are travel diaries which date back to 1250 things are changing.” Syrian influences and during the trip AD. Korkai was an ancient port dating He related how the village has grown down to the east southern coast of back to the first century. somewhat into a small town that now Tamil Nadu I came across interesting Adam also shared, “These places has two bank branches and the first muslims along the way including are very much centred on communal ATM machine opened last year. He descendants of the King of Madinah living traditions with no fancy hotels said that the pace of life, of course, is ofSaudi Arabia!” or resorts along the way so it was still very slow compared to Singapore. He met them at a village called heartwarming to find strangers There are not many places one can Ervadi where the King of Madinah opening their homes for weary go in terms of sights and things to do had settled after journeying from travellers to stay.” Adam explained, “For so unlike the other trips back to his Saudi Arabia in the early 12th century them it is a great honour and blessing hometown in the past, this time he to spread Islam. He said, “It is a to be able to take care of a guest in decided to travel and see the country very popular town and you can see their home. It is something I found up close. He was in a for quite an eye the differences in the people, signs quite amazing. It is a beautiful thing I opening trip. and culture. There are many such rarely experienced anywhere else.”

48 C What if...

EXPLOrE WhAt if

Xander returns to the start of his trip to the Himalayas

…SOmE jOUrNEyS WErE TEN yEArS IN THE mAKING? Would a sleepover in their classroom in Grade 1 prepare is his Grade 11 week of independent travel. For Xander, the students for trekking in the Himalayas in Grade 11? At adventure began when he joined UWCSEA and spent a night UWCSEA, we believe it does. That’s why our Outdoor away from his family for the first time. Education programme begins with a night in the classroom when students are just six years old, and challenges them At UWCSEA, students learn that they can stretch themselves further each year. further than they thought possible. In the words of the UWC movement founder, Kurt Hahn, “there is more in you Take Xander, a Grade 11 student, whose five-day trip than you think.” to Taman Negara in Grade 5 helped to give him the determination, adaptability and resilience he needed What if your child joins UWCSEA? to trek for two weeks and have a homestay with a local Visit www.uwcsea.edu.sg to find out more. family in Ladakh, North India in Grade 10. The next step

48 C UWCSEA Dover is registered by the CPE CPE registration No. 197000825H registration Period 18 july 2011–17 july 2017 UWCSEA East is registered by the CPE CPE registration No. 200801795N registration Period 10 march 2011–9 march 2017 213ADV-1314 D PB