South America's First Luxury Overnight Train, the Belmond Andean Explorer

Peru South America’s first luxury overnight train, the Belmond Andean Explorer, takes visitors through some of the continent’s most spectacular scenery. Nick Walton is one of the first to get onboard MORE THAN BED AND BOARD ON THE ANDEAN EXPLORER t’s that infinitely beautiful moment between day and night, when the shadows draw long, the air grows still, and the last lingering light drains from the sky, to be replaced by a can- opy of southern stars. And there’s no better place to watch this transition than high in the Peruvian Andes, a mug of piping hot almond milk in hand, Ia baby alpaca shawl around the shoul- ders, and ancient, ice-capped peaks dominating the darkening horizon. I’m travelling on the Belmond Andean Explorer, South America’s first luxury overnight train, and this brief stretch of the legs is taking place on the crown of the La Raya Pass, at 4,343 metres above sea level, the highest point on the train’s two-night, 700-kilometre-long Peruvian Highlands itinerary. After exploring the tiny trackside chapel and posing for selfies in the creeping shadows of the Andes, the train’s guests clamber aboard again, congregating in the open- air observation car for as long as they can weather the chilly night air as the train curls its way through deep valleys on its decent towards Lake Titicaca. “There’s nothing quite like being at the top of the world,” says train manager Christopher Mendoza as we finally re- treat into the warmth of the bar car and make our way towards dinner. “Maybe it’s the air, maybe it’s the lack of air.” Luxury rail travel has been slow to arrive in South America. The Belmond Andean Explorer cuts through some of the most breathtaking scenery in Peru and features 24 cabins, Peruvian cuisine by executive chef Diego Munoz, an elegant piano bar and outdoor observation car Richard James Taylor / Belmond ULTRATRAVEL AUTUMN 2017 43 “Pots of muna tea, baby alpaca shawls for those chilly alpine nights, or even an indulgent refil of your cabin’s personal oxygen tank is only ever a push of a button away” While the rest of the world is fall- the train, resplendent in midnight light another day all tell of the timeless- Clockwise from top left: a Belmond ing in love with luxury trains all over blue and piano key ivory, departed the ness of life on the tracks. Andean Explorer cabin Richard James again, South America’s rail journeys ancient city’s Wanchaq Station with the Despite the nod to the past, the Taylor / Belmond; Arequipa Richard James have been, until now, either short and pageantry of an ocean liner, tradition- Belmond Andean Explorer, which Taylor / Belmond; the Belmond Andean sweet or long and arduous. Belmond al dancers swirling their vibrant blue caters to just 48 guests across 24 cab- Explorer at ake Lagunillas, Peru Matt (formerly Orient Express) pioneered dresses as they performed the Peruvian ins, is unashamedly contemporary and Crossick; the on-board restaurant the contemporary train experience Marinera Norteña courting dance, chil- luxurious; pots of muña tea, to relieve Richard James Taylor / Belmond; day in Peru when it launched the Hiram dren in colourful woollen caps waving altitude sickness; additional baby cabin Richard James Taylor / Belmond Bingham, a luxury day train that climbs from the trackside as we chugged alpaca shawls for those chilly alpine between the Incan capital of Cusco and southeast, diving into deep terraced nights; or even an indulgent refill of the ruins at Machu Picchu, in 1999. valleys, Andean condors circling grace- your cabin’s personal oxygen tank is Belmond now links its luxurious hotels fully high above. only ever a push of a button away. My and remote retreats – including Sanctu- In many ways, the Belmond Andean junior suite features a double bed, ary Lodge, the only accommodation at Explorer bridges eras in rail travel. twin armchairs and throw cushions Machu Picchu – by rail, allowing travel- Formerly Australia’s Great South Pa- in vibrant blue and persimmon, and lers the chance to marvel at the Incan cific Express, a Belmond train which a pair of large picture windows, the ruins, enjoy a few days in Cusco, then ran between Sydney and Kuranda in landscapes beyond which mesmerize visit Puno and the volcano-wreathed Queensland from 1999 until 2003, for hours – you can bring a good book city of Arequipa by train during four the train was shipped to Peru and on your journey but I’ll wager it never one- or two-night itineraries. reimagined by interior designer Inge makes it out of your carry-on. The Peruvian Highlands itinerary is Moore of London’s Muza Lab. She There’s a clutch of excursions along the best of the lot. Like many of my retained many elements of the Aussie the route that help break up hours sway- fellow guests I had arrived early in train, which was itself designed around ing and bouncing down Peru’s undu- Cusco, checking in at Belmond’s Hotel the glamorous heyday of rail travel lating tracks. A few hours after leaving Monasterio, a breathtaking house of in Europe. Molded facades, original Cusco guests explore the Incan ruins at slumber set within in a former monas- chandeliers, gleaming art deco-in- Raqchi, and in the vast desert outside tery dating from 1592, to acclimatize spired air vents, ornate mahogany pan- Arequipa we climb down from the train to the altitude of the world’s second elling; marquetry floors, and vintage to gaze upon the 7,000-year-old rock highest plateau. The next morning light switches that survived the refit to paintings of the Sumbay Caves. 44 AUTUMN 2017 ULTRATRAVEL ULTRATRAVEL AUTUMN 2017 45 Peru In Puno, the train’s silver tongued ex- A cursion manager Ari rouses the willing N to catch a staggering sunrise over Lake D BRAZIL Titicaca before we depart on a whole day P E R U excursion that visits the Uros people, E S famed for their floating totora reed Lima villages; and the idyllic, Unesco-listed island of Taquile, where guests dine on Machu Picchu locally grown quinoa and lake trout, and Cusco gaze at the glaciers of neighbouring Bo- Raqchi livia from vintage cane chairs salvaged BOLIVIA from the Great South Pacific Express. Lake “I can’t believe I’m here,” exclaims a Puno Titicaca Miami-based music executive travelling Arequipa with his young family. “Peru has been on Pacic my list for so many years and the launch 200km Ocean of this train was the perfect excuse to CHILE finally pull the trigger.” The wonder of the destination extends to the train’s two elegant dining rooms, essentials where waiters in chic uniforms, complete The flights with stylish leather suspenders, serve the Emirates (emirates.com) flies Peruvian cuisine of executive chef Diego direct from Dubai to Rio de Janeiro from Muñoz. From lingering breakfasts served Dh7,000 return, including taxes. Avianca as the train rides the soaring ridges Top to bottom: the observation car (avianca.com) fliles from Rio to Cusco via above Saracocha, and sun-kissed lunches as the train passes through the Lima from $399 (Dh1,465) return, including backdropped by the three volcanic peaks Cusco region of Peru Matt Crossick; taxes. which ring the White City of Arequipa, the train progresses through each meal is a symphony of flavours and Cusco Matt Crossick and heads textures that tells a story of Peruvian south Richard James Taylor / Belmond The trip tradition and innovation. Highlights on From US$1,830 (Dh6,722) per deluxe our journey include seared seabass with cabin, twin share, for the one-night Spirit Andean mint- scented broad beans; cara of the Water itinerary and US$4,630 cara, a local citrus, poached with carda- (Dh17,000) per deluxe cabin for the mom and thyme; and, for the intrepid, al Peruvian Highlands itinerary, inclusive of dente alpaca tortellini. meals and beverages. Surcharges apply The fine dining, the military-like pre- for some excursions (belmond.com/ cision of the staff, and the other worldly belmond-andean-explorer). landscapes of the highlands make leaving the train in Arequipa rather painful, but we’re content in the knowledge that finally fellow slow travel lovers can explore this unique destination as travellers have for centuries, one stretch of track at a time. 46 AUTUMN 2017 ULTRATRAVEL.

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