LATIN AMERICA BELIZE Destinations
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LATIN AMERICA BELIZE DESTINATIONS This Central American spot balances beaches, adventure and ancient Mayan sites, Belize finds Meera Dattani the hype atin American, Caribbean, and was the last Central American LMayan, contemporary, nation to gain independence, colonial…Belize is Central Belize is crammed in 1981. Its varied history is America’s second-smallest reflected in its people – Mestizo nation size-wise, and smallest with ancient sites, (Spanish Indian), Creole (African population-wise with fewer jungle adventures European), Mayan, Garifuna than 400,000 people, but it’s and the world’s (black Caribbean), East Indian, crammed with ancient Mayan Chinese and European – and in a sites, jungle adventures, off- second-longest reef cuisine, culture and language that shore islands and the world’s includes English, Spanish and the K C O second-longest reef. It’s all of lilting Caribbean-English of kriol. Central America’s bounty in one. Belize prides itself on a local, Previously British Honduras, it green-minded approach, so you’ll shutterst Placencia, Belize became a British colony in 1862, find few global chains here. PICTURE: PICTURE: 52 travelweekly.co.uk 9 November 2017 9 November 2017 travelweekly.co.uk 53 DESTINATIONS LATIN AMERICA BELIZE ◗ SEE town itself is small, inviting and pretty, gained fame in Madonna’s La Isla Neatly wedged between Mexico, right by the sea, with lots of locally run Bonita, where restaurants and bars Guatemala and the Caribbean Sea, Don’t let Belize’s size fool restaurants and shops. are small and personable (suggest don’t let its size fool you – there’s you – there’s plenty here Suggest Eladio’s Pop Farm where The Truck Stop for a different plenty here for a standalone holiday. farmer Eladio shows guests around experience), and there’s a smattering Its Mayan experience is at the heart for a standalone holiday, his pioneering organic farm before of art galleries, chocolate shops of it all, predominantly in the western with Mayan experiences serving up a feast, or the Living Mayan and boutiques. South of Ambergris, SAMPLE Cayo District, home to the unassuming at the heart of it all Experience, where the Cal family have car-free Caye Caulker takes ‘laid-back’ PRODUCT capital Belmopan, aka the ‘Garden City’ recreated a traditional Mayan home, a step further with just golf carts and thanks to surrounding waterfalls, caves and the Chiacs family show off the bicycles on the roads, and upmarket and rivers that are ideal for hiking, intricacies of Mayan craftwork. options springing up among the Sail onboard the birdwatching and soft adventure. magnificent Mayan complex of Tikal For years though, Belize has been backpacker favourites. Belize Aggressor The tourist hub, though, is San in Guatemala, a two-hour drive across known for its cayes, the tiny islands in Elsewhere, Belize City is a chance to IV on Dive Ignacio, a small town of lively local the border. the Caribbean Sea, a 10-minute flight see urban life in action, and visit the Worldwide’s bars and restaurants, and a good base In southern Belize, connected by or 20-minute boat ride from Belize Museum of Belize and 19th-century Belize Liveaboard for Caracol, Belize’s most impressive the scenic Hummingbird Highway, City. Last year’s Hurricane Earl battered House of Culture, once the country’s trip around the Mayan city; Cahal Pech, the oldest Placencia is becoming popular with parts of the Belize coast, but it’s seat of government. Warn visitors to Turneffe and known site in the Belize River Valley; its 16-mile-long beach and increasing back to business as usual. Here it’s all BELOW LEFT: be vigilant – crime has been an issue in Lighthouse Reef and the temples of Xunantunich, where number of hotels. There’s a quieter about sunsets, diving and snorkelling. Actun Loch the city. atolls. The 10-day a new tomb was discovered in 2016. experience to be had in the local Companies such as Island Dream Tours Tunich Cave A world away in Belize’s far north Hanna Stables offer horse-riding tours Garifuna communities of Dangriga and offer snorkelling and sunset cruises, is Orange Walk district, the seaside trip starts at BELOW: £3,345 including here, including a quirky ferry crossing Hopkins fishing village, where you’ll while Ramon’s Village Divers is a good Catamaran town of Corozal, and Lamanai, once an return flights, with horses in tow. find mountain, beach and reef. bet for trips to the Belize Barrier Reef, cruise in the ancient Mayan city of 35,000 people. transfers, one Cayo District is home to the Actun There’s also much to recommend Shark Ray Alley, Hol Chan, and the Caribbean Sea night in a hotel, Loch Tunich cave, where a hike and in the far south, in the oft-forgotten collapsed freshwater cave system of the ◗ STAY BOTTOM: seven nights’ abseil take you 300 feet down into Toledo district. Punta Gorda (or PG) Blue Hole, for rays, turtles and more. Horse riding tour What Belize does best is accommoda- full-board and up Central America’s largest cave system. is a great base for exploring rural The most popular isle is Ambergris with San Ignacio tion with character. New suites and to five dives a day. It’s also relatively easy to visit the Belize and Mayan culture, and the Caye whose main town, San Pedro, Resort Hotel excellent food make the San diveworldwide. com National Geographic Journeys with G Adventures has a 10-day Explore Belize trip from Belize City to Caye Caulker. The itinerary includes Garifuna drumming lessons and visits to social enterprise projects such as the San Antonio Pottery Co-op. Prices start at £1,259, departing January 19, 2018, including nine nights’ hotel and guesthouse accommodation, breakfast and selected lunches. Flights are excluded. gadventures. co.uk 54 travelweekly.co.uk 9 November 2017 9 November 2017 travelweekly.co.uk 55 DESTINATIONS LATIN AMERICA BELIZE Ignacio Resort Hotel a popular choice North of town on a quiet stretch voluntourism trips from the likes of in San Ignacio town. Its seven of white-sand beach is the all-villa Hands Up Holidays. hectares of tropical gardens are home Matachica, which features Central The variety of Belizean dishes to the Green Iguana Conservation American-design fabrics, mosaic-tiled should also make a strong selling Project, which is open to guests and bathrooms and a Jade Spa offering point. Try johnny cakes (breakfast non-guests. treatments such as banana and papaya biscuits) and fry-jacks (fried Out of town is the boutique luxury facials. Another upscale option is doughnuts), Creole-style rice and Ka’ana Resort with hacienda-style the Caribbean colonial-style Victoria beans, fresh lobster (in season), and suites and villas, organic garden and a House, south of San Pedro town, with Garifuna dishes such as cassava and top-notch rainforest restaurant. an infinity pool, newly revamped spa, plantain. And you’ll be hard-pressed Gaïa Riverlodge is another thatched ‘casitas’ and beachfront villas. to find a table without a bottle of eco-property in the Mountain Pine Marie Sharp’s hot sauce on it. Ridge Forest Reserve southeast of San ◗ SEll Belize’s compactness is half Ignacio, while down south in Punta Since November 2016, an American the appeal, too. “It’s becoming Gorda, the intimate 16-room jungle Airlines service has for the first time increasingly popular,” says Intrepid lodge Belcampo has an organic farm, allowed UK travellers to reach Belize Travel’s head of trade sales Andrew rum bar and spa in a 4,850-hectare without overnighting in the US. Turner. “It might be tiny, but it packs nature reserve. Regional airline Tropic Air’s partnership a punch: Mayan ruins shrouded by In San Pedro, on Ambergris with Thomas Cook offers same-day jungle, world-class diving, and a Caye, Ramon’s Village Resort has a services between Europe and Belize spicy fusion of Belizean, Creole and Polynesian theme that doesn’t feel via Cancun, and also connects Central Mestizo culture. The fact that Belize is entirely out of place despite the American and Belizean towns. the only English-speaking country in Caribbean setting. There’s a fun beach Belize spans the full range of price Central America makes chatting to the bar-restaurant, and while the former points – from backpacker basics laid-back locals much easier. pier and dive shop were destroyed by to luxury stays – and can cater to “There’s a real opportunity for Hurricane Earl, there’s a new 400-foot BELOW: more specialist markets such as the agents to introduce their clients to this pier, dive shop and fleet of dive boats. Gaïa Riverlodge dive sector, adventure travellers or little-known gem.” RNEAU O PICTURE: PETER M 56 travelweekly.co.uk 9 November 2017.