Wouldn’t you like to be here?

Pigeon House Mountain, the Castle and the Clyde Gorge from the lookout near Folly Point in the Budawangs. Photo: Brett Davis

Looking up the Colo from the Canoe Creek junction, Wollemi NP. Photo: Julie Cox Walk Safely—Walk with a Club T h e Bushwalker The Official Publication of Bushwalking NSW Inc Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 ISSN 0313 2684 From the Editor: Roger Caffin editor’s desk. . . [email protected] Graphic Design & Assembly: Barry Hanlon e were doing the Australian Alpine Walking Track some years Proofreader: Roy Jamieson ago, from Walhalla to Canberra, and as we came up to the WCobberas FT it started to snow. Ah well, it wasn’t too bad, just a Confederation Officers: bit unexpected for April. The view of the Ramsheads as we dropped down President: David Morrison onto Boggy Plains (near Dead Horse Gap) was rather good, with that Administration Officer: dusting. Of course the snow didn’t last very long, and we had good [email protected] weather to the other side of Mt Jagungal. But the next day after that we Phone: 9565 4005 woke up to a very quiet and rather dim morning - it had snowed again and Website: the tent was covered. All of which goes to show you need to be just a little www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au careful in our alpine regions. But it was a good trip. Address all correspondence to: I see it is 2015: just where did the last few years go? Sigh. PO Box 119, Newtown, NSW 2042 Articles for Publication Bushwalking NSW Inc represents We are always happy to receive pictures for the Inside Front Cover - and elsewhere too. approximately 66 Clubs with a total If you would like to see yours published, send them in. However, please note that little membership of about 8,700 640x480 photos and little photos from cheap phones are just not good enough: they bushwalkers. simply do not print well enough at 300 dpi. We need the full-size originals, straight from the camera and uncropped and unretouched, so we can set them up for the Formed in 1932, Bushwalking NSW printing process. provides a united voice on behalf of all Apart from that, please keep those bushwalking articles rolling in. We need them. If bushwalkers on conservation, access you are describing a walk somewhere, it would really help if you could give the reader and other issues. (who may be from far away) some idea of where the walk is. We don’t need GRs, just a general idea. We need suitable photos for most every article, so please include a few. People interested in joining a Once again, note that little, cropped or shrunk photos will rarely be accepted. If you bushwalking club may write to the want to include a DOC file or a PDF (in addition to the mandatory plain text file and Bushwalking Administration full-sized photos) to illustrate how the photos fit into the text, that's fine but we don't [email protected] use them. However, photos embedded in DOC or PDF files are not accepted by themselves, for a list of Clubs, but a far more and neither are scans of standard photographic prints - with the possible exception of useful on-line list is available at the historical items where the print is all that exists. Confederation website Finally, the opinions expressed by authors may not represent the official opinions of www.bushwalking.org.au, Bushwalking NSW or of any Club. The Editor’s opinions are his own, are subject to broken up into areas. There’s lots of change without explanation, and may be pretty biased anyhow. other good stuff there too, including the Australian Bushwalking FAQ. Roger Caffin Editor

Index Wouldn’t you like to be here? 2 From the Editor’s Desk 3 Capertee/Colo Packrafting Adventure 4 Obelisk Hill 6 The Flying Carpet and Koan Cave, Part 1 8 Tales of a Walking Pole 10 The Hinkler Ring on Mt Pratomagno, Italy 12 Burke & Wills Trek 2014 14

Fron t Cov er: Bo ggy Pl ai n s i n Apri l , Dead H o rse G ap, Ko sci u sk o NP. Ph o t o : Ro ger C affi n . B ack Cov er: M o u n t Ban k s, seen fro m t h e t rack bet w een Bal t z er Lo o k o u t an d H an gi n g Ro ck . Ph o t o : Su e St u ck ey , H i l l Vi ew Bu sh w al k ers. Furry camels—See story on page 14. Photo: Paul Bateman

Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 The Bushwalker | 3 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Roping the rafts through some boulders

lines 400+ m above us, six keen packrafters forged ahead along the Capertee, trudging through sand and shallow water dragging or carrying our rafts. We paddled the deeper pools and portaged numerous rock blocks and rapids. On the way we encountered a red-bellied black snake crossing the river, numerous eastern water dragons, an osprey, a kangaroo, many birds and evidence of other species. Camp was set up on the south side of the river next to a nice productive fishing hole, with two bass landed in the twilight. "Big Dog" was explained to our group of weary rafters as with aching muscles we were all in bed well before 7:30 pm. Friday, midday Both Newnes (from 1907) and Glen Davis (from 1938) townships have an Six keen packrafters with two support industrial history. Both had had relatively Monday team members (along for a backpack and large scale oil shale and coal mining to bring cars home) headed to Newnes on histories with associated oil, kerosene and Three more bass were landed before the to camp near the paraffin producing works. sunrise with the larger two cooked up historic Newnes Hotel. Our intention was The only reliable water gauge, Upper nicely in a bed of embers for breakfast. By to walk the Wolgan Trail to the Rocky Colo, 100 km downstream was reading 8.30 am we were again trudging the sand, Creek junction early on Saturday. 0.7 m; our ideal level was 1.0 m. With dreading the regular quicksand and We arrived just on dark and our host Newnes being 550 m above sea level and boulder portages. Thomas Ebersoll, owner of Newnes Hotel Glen Davis at less than 300 m, starting at Mid morning we spotted a dingo pup & Cabins had preheated his woodfired Glen Davis hopefully meant less rock on a sandflat, ironically near . pizza oven. Camp was set up and we blockages and raft portages. So the Each day the magnificent gorge settled in for a wonderful team dinner. decision was taken to drive to Glen Davis became narrower and more spectacular. Discussions were had with Thomas early next morning, 9 km as the crow flies We pulled up short of our goal, (Newnes’ only permanent human and 99 km by road. camping on a sandbank downstream of resident: wombats outnumber him) Dingo Creek. regarding our concerns about low water Saturday morning levels. Thomas made a phone call to a friend in Glen Davis to check. His advice A chilly start as we departed south Tuesday through the spectacular , to was to go to plan B and start our We camped on a sandbank downstream of Lidsdale then NW along the Castlereagh adventure from Glen Davis on the Gospers Creek, about 2km short of the Hwy to Capertee village then 35 km east . The Capertee and Wolgan Capertee/Wolgan/Colo junction. Fish into the equally beautiful Rivers come together deep in the Wollemi jumped onto the lures in adjoining deep to Glen Davis. 5 km further east, in Wilderness to form the Colo. pools, with two hooked from the first two at Coorongooba During our trip questions were asked lures cast. about the river name changes and why campground, we culled excess weight the Colo didn't flow full length with one from our packs, pumped up our rafts and name. My summation is as follows. The donned our packs, anticipating lots of Wednesday area is very rugged, and the Colo was first walking and raft lugging ahead. accessed from the Hawksbury soon after The Capertee appeared to have less At 11 am we jubilantly reached the European settlement, with the narrow water than the Wolgan though more junction, with the Wolgan flowing in from river flats of the lower 30 km cleared for water flowed into it from Coorongooba our right and carrying twice the water of agriculture. Upstream the Colo was too Creek than the Capertee was carrying to the Capertee. After taking almost 4 days rugged and narrow, closing into a deep that point. Malcolm and Geoff walked to traverse less than 25 km we settled in, gorge. The upper Wolgan and Capertee along the river bank with Robyn, who agreeing we had earned a break. Valleys were cleared for grazing soon thought that was a smarter choice as there Excited at the prospect of more after the Blue Mountains were first was not much water in the river. Soon, paddling and slightly easier going, we traversed, but the way the gorges closed and unexpectedly, we were able to paddle snapped team photos and thoroughly in prevented any clearing or agriculture a series of long deep pools separated by enjoyed the moment at a place very few downstream. The middle 100 km of large boulder blockages which required people have visited. rugged wilderness and deep sandstone portage. We camped at a great spot, though it gorge country were a bit unknown. Names After about 2 hr we set our first had no fishing/swimming hole, opposite were bestowed upon each river before wilderness camp close to the junction Girribung Creek with its towering Blue anyone realised they were a common with Freshwater Creek. Around a nice Gums. drainage system; these names were campfire we cooked a meal together and retained later on. The Hawksbury and shared stories of Dorothy's drive from Nepean rivers were explored and named London to Mongolia, completed just Thursday in much the same way: the Hawksbury weeks earlier, and Greg’s paddling (At this beautiful and remote campsite we from the sea and the Nepean overland. Tasmania’s Franklin River during the left a Geo Cache. A small black plastic Later on, when they were found to be the 1980’s anti-dam protests and more. canister with bright yellow lid, tucked into same river, the names were still retained: Sunday we farewelled Malcolm and a crack in the rockface at camp, hopefully Hawksbury for the lower tidal section and Geoff early, as they walked back to the above any future flood levels. It contains a Nepean for the upper catchment. cars to bring them home for us. With cliff note with our trip details, Newcastle

4 | The Bushwalker Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

A large boulder pile-up on the Capertee

Glen Davis to Canoe Creek 56 km / 8 days Col McCluskey Newcastle Ramblers

Ramble rs Bushwalking Club group names and a mystery item. A challenge for other Ramblers/walkers/packrafters to visit.) Today was to be a shorter day, though a long sand march. Fewer rockblocks were encountered but the quicksand was relentless. The gorge continued to narrow with fewer scree slope and the many river bends cutting straight into beautiful rock measures saved further damage, and what we were met by five cheerful Ramblers faces towering overhead. The going was with less walking and more paddling over with cameras and congratulations. still tough but the scenery was the next days some improvement resulted. We camped on the huge sandbank at magnificent. A cool start, shaded by towering cliffs Canoe Creek. With everyone in the group bruised, on our east. We firstly walked 2 km of shallow sandy bottom, observed a soaring battered and carrying many aches and Sunday pains, by the end of the day murmurs of a wedge-tailed eagle. Soon we reached a mutiny were surfacing. The leader was long deep pool and enjoyed a perfect blue A very hot day had been predicted. Early feeling the effects of continuous wet sky overhead with warming sunshine. We in the day some of our support crew walking in a wetsuit, with what Greg reached a large blockage with enormous walked a couple of km upstream to diagnosed as a classic case of "crotch rot". boulders and a strenuous portage ensued. experience the gorge, swimming in a deep Severe chaffing of the inner thighs and We continued paddling long deep pools hole before returning to Canoe Creek groin: painful, tender and unsightly! and climbing/portaging numerous large where they found the wounded laying Camp was at junction. boulder blockages, but had our best day about on the shady riverside in rest and We arrived early and everybody had a with the most paddling time of of the trip. recovery mode. much earned nanna nap. We camped on a large sunny sandbank Around the campfire, discussions were between Dooli and Pinchgut Creeks, had about leaving the gorge at Canoe catching five lovely bass in a nearby deep Monday pool. Creek with Robyn, Bev and our support With a hot day forecast we set out at 7 am party. Consensus was reached to go home, for the steep walk out of the gorge at lick our wounds and return another time Canoe Creek. 11 of us happily climbed with higher water levels to complete the out, reaching the top of the steeper lower reaches of the Colo. (Our leader section before the heat set in. We had previously paddled from Canoe Creek Saturday encountered 3 very ambitious younger to the Hawksbury in three separate stints, men walking in and planning a day walk which made agreement easier). Today a majestic sea eagle soared above to Tambo Crown and return, beyond what us for a long while as we paddled slowly I would consider practical. A tough day Friday down the river, negotiating numerous indeed. [Not so - RNC] rock blockage and mostly unpaddlable We were at the cars by 10.30 am and Bev donated ointments and soft, polar- rapids. looked forward to a shower and huge fleece lined wetsuit shorts to Col in an Mid-afternoon, about 3 pm, we burgers at the Grey Gum Cafe back along attempt to prevent further chaffing. These celebrated reaching Canoe Creek where the . t

Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 The Bushwalker | 5 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club An aerial photograph of Obelisk Hill and its surrounds taken in 2012, courtesy CMA. Jesmond House and nature strip can be seen to the right of the Hill along with the many heritage building of the City.

Obelisk Hill A Community Coastcare Project Bob Clifton Newcastle Ramblers Bushwalking Club

n October 1961 six young men immediately south of the City’s CBD and Our Club often includes a visit to formed the Newcastle Ramblers is a stiff little 120 m climb up Wolfe Street Obelisk Hill on its twilight walks to take IBushwalking Club under the auspices from Hunter Street. advantage of a sea breeze in summer and of the YMCA, to learn about bushwalking Following the discovery of coal near the stunning coastline walking and to explore the Hunter region and its the entrance to the Hunter River (Coal opportunities which stretch from Nobby’s natural attractions. That was over fifty River) in 1797 a convict settlement was Headland to Redhead Beach in the south. years ago and for the Club’s Anniversary it established in 1804 to mine coal. In 1820 But back to the Coastcare group. sought meaningful activities to the colonial authorities constructed a Working at least one Friday morning each appropriately mark the occasion. In windmill on Obelisk Hill to mill corn for month, our first task was to remove and addition to a celebratory dinner for over the growing population. It was later sold dispose of the swathes of Bitou Bush, 150 past and present members, the re- and the windmill was demolished in Lantana, Ficus vine, and seedling Date enactment of early bushwalks, and the 1847. Palms which covered the surrounds and publication of an anniversary magazine of By that time, however, the windmill slopes of the Hill. Whilst the work was selected items from the Club’s archives, it had become a guiding mark for sailing often physically demanding we enjoyed it was decided to have an involvement in a vessels to navigate the tricky entrance to immensely as a group of us made good community project. Coal River, and with ensuing outrage progress during each working session. One of our members used to park her from the shipping industry and strong Clearing the weeds was one thing, but car in the street next to Obelisk Hill and representation to the Governor it was dealing with the rapid re-growth of all was dismayed to see this wonderful replaced in 1850 by an obelisk at the spot manner of weed species was another location deteriorating through neglect at a where the windmill had stood. Later in challenge. The technique that evolved was time when its ownership was being 1884 an underground concrete reservoir the covering of cleared areas with a thick determined. She proposed to the Club was constructed next to the obelisk as mulch to prevent seed germination and that interested members might get stuck part of Newcastle’s permanent water retain soil moisture, before close planting into the restoration of the native supply. The reservoir remained in use for of hundreds of native plants endemic to vegetation and transform the site to one hundred years until 1985. On cracker our coastline. something the community would be night that year an accumulation of gas in ur enthusiasm attracted some modest proud of. Following discussions with the the reservoir exploded causing the roof to Osponsorship from the City Council, Newcastle City Council our Club formed a collapse and injure two young girls the Catchment Management Trust, and Coastcare group in May 2010 and with playing with fire works. the Hunter Water Corporation. This some guidance from Council officers we The obelisk itself suffered damage over allowed us to acquire necessary tools, embarked on what has been a four year the years from lightning strikes and the purchase plants for community planting love affair – an activity to complement 1989 Newcastle earthquake, and is now mornings, and the purchase of two our interest in bushwalking and the not quite as tall as originally built. It is modern picnic table settings which were beauty of the natural environment. surrounded by wonderful heritage homes installed to take advantage of the For people who have not been to our dating back to the late 1800s. Jesmond wonderful views. In-kind assistance from wonderful City or have not visited Obelisk House opposite Obelisk Hill is a standout the Council included the provision of Hill, let me tell you of this brilliant example built in 1860 by John Wood who plants, mulch, erosion control logs and historic location. It is the prominent hill made his fortune in the brewing business. the removal of green waste which was

A weed infested and eroded slope adjacent to the main stairway to the top of the Hill 6 | The Bushwalker has been Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 transformed into a garden of native plants. Early days in 2010 clearing Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Bitou Bush from the eastern slopes (R); coastal wattle in full flower on the eastern slope in August 2014 - four years after the initial clearing (L).

invaluable and very much appreciated by the group. All plants have been sourced from ‘Trees in Newcastle’, a non-profit organization which propagates native plants of local provenance. The Hill is also endowed with remnant tracts of Themeda grassland, which is recognised as a threatened plant community. The City and our group are having great success in improving its quality and restoring degraded locations with new plantings. ur working sessions each month attract at least six to ten members of Othe Club and neighbours, and for example last year (2013) we worked a total of over 430 hours. Most of the hard work has been completed and it is with great pleasure and pride that we can reflect on the hours of outdoor activity and camaraderie, and to see this location alive with coastal wild flowers and increased bird life. During 2014 we focused on the restoration of the Ordnance Street nature strip which is opposite Obelisk Hill and on the southern side of Jesmond House. With a ‘Make your Place’ grant from the City and a contribution from Jesmond House, extensive weed growth and accumulated rubbish were removed, and the slopes were stabilised before mulching and planting out with littoral rainforest and other species. The strip looks great. We would love to show you around this iconic location of Newcastle – A weed infested slope against the World War defence perhaps you might join us on a twilight walk or join in on a working session emplacement has been re-vegetated with Themeda – check out our website. t Grassland species.

Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 The Bushwalker | 7 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Michael Keats The Bush Club

Floating in space on The Flying Carpet. Photo: Geoff Fox

To reach the Flying Carpet the group survived the fire. The effects of these two followed the Long Zig Zag Pass, a natural events meant a lot of forest areas were pass giving access from the Newnes now more open and late spring flowers Plateau off the western side of Glowworm were now carpeting the ground. Pink Tunnel Road above Carne Creek, 2.3 km E Boronias and yellow Hibbertias were in of Wolgan Pinnacle. This pass was full colourful display. described by Michael Keats on his Bush The vehicles were parked at GR 414 Club walk 10-Oct-2007: Cullen Bullen 148 at 0846. Taking a comfort stop before topo map, top of pass GR 405 151. This the walk I found a 30 m of 10 mm rope pass and several others in the same area on a log in the middle of nowhere. It were explored and proved as part of a appeared to be in serviceable condition. program that year to discover as many The briefing session behind us, we set off ways of route as possible from the plateau on an old access track to the NW, noting down through the cliffs to Carne Creek. the dry conditions and the floral display. The discovery of the Flying Carpet by Yuri At 0904 we headed S to pick up the top of Bolotin in May 2014 stimulated a the descent into the Long Zig Zag Pass. renewed interest in this area. As was We must have started the descent a little discovered on this walk there are so many more to the W than last time as during features in such a small area that had the descent we came across a remarkable been overlooked in our earlier level area surrounded by high cliffs explorations. studded with pagodas, GR 407 152. What Driving along the Glowworm Tunnel was unexpected was the number of cut Road, the impact of unseasonal weather stumps from very large trees that had was clearly visible. Many trees burnt by been removed for timber milling. That The ledge sticking out to the left. the October 2013 fire have now died, in accounted for the old access track. Photo. Brian Fox places with up to a 50% loss. The heavy Disappointingly, there has been no snowfall of October 2014 had snapped off regrowth of trees in the area at all. That was what it felt like when we stood thousands of branches from trees that had Seedling trees are absent. there. A flat projecting rock platform midway (about 60m) up the eastern cliff A distant view of The Flying Carpet (at the left). Photo: Yuri Bolotin face of Carne Creek, between the features known as, The Gurgler and Long Zig Zag Pass.

hese words were uttered by bushwalker Yuri Bolotin when he Tfirst stood on one of the most unusual rock platforms in the entire Gardens of Stone National Park, and arguably the entire Greater Blue Mountains National Park. Now, for a feature to command such words it has to be spectacular. Having since been there I can only endorse his feelings. ‘The sensation of floating in space’ are words that came to mind. The day I did the walk, 3rd November 2014, it was a fine, mild summer day with constant cloud cover varying from 7/8ths to 3/8ths during the course of the day. Low humidity, temperature range from 8 to 23 C.

8 | The Bushwalker Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

The approach to the Long Zig Zag Pass. Photo: Yuri Bolotin The Bush Club party at the tip of the Flying Carpet. Photo: Brian Fox

The Long Zig Zag route hugs the cliff line After morning tea ledge-walking sheer 30 m high bare rock face. It is a as it descends. Massive and ancient dominated and at 1034 we rounded a vertiginous place. As an experience it is Xanthorrhoea plants add a sculptural projecting rock that forms the base of the unforgettable. The visit took the party element, contrasting to the somewhat Flying Carpet, GR 408 147. Another 20 m just on an hour to get everyone up, take weedy Leptospermum species that tower on we reached the proven ascent point the photos, enjoy the view and then overhead. At 0934 we came across where a 25 m tape-assisted climb gives descend. t another feature missed on the 2007 access to a platform that is one of the descent: a significant level-floored cave most unbelievable experiences to be had complete with old fire hearth. The cave is in the Carne Creek valley and the Gardens 12 m across the mouth, 10 m high and 7 of Stone National Park. The climb m deep. It was probably last used by involves two set tapes over the 25 m foresters as a shelter cave. There were no vertical ascent. observed artefacts of any kind. Standing or sitting on The Flying Carpet is After the cave the descent continued a truly unique experience. As you emerge through scrubby undergrowth alternating from the slot at the top of the climb you with narrow vegetation-free rocky ledges. look out over a sliver of rock about 3 m At GR 408 146 the ledge broadened and a wide, although it is only half that width in large rock teetering on the cliff edge was the middle, and you look south along 12 chosen as a good spot for morning tea. It m of undulating rock suspended in space. had great views across Carne Creek The floor of Carne Creek valley is nearly valley. We could view the starting point of 200 m below. Above the Flying Carpet is a our walk through the Wolgan Valley Resort done on 11th September 2014. The spectacular Zorro Pass descent point was also in view.

Looking back at the cliffs from the tip of The Flying Carpet. Photo: Brian Fox

The trip that day went on to the Gurgler Pass and Koan Cave (more Bush Club names). Since the photos from this area are all so impressive, I have split the article into two parts so we can have lots A level-floored cave on the descent. The tape-assisted ascent to The Flying of photos; the second part will be in the Photo: Yuri Bolotin Carpet - it’s a long way down. next issue. Ed. Photo: Brian Fox

Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 The Bushwalker | 9 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Val Flint Tales of a Up and Downers Walking Pole

belong to a small based bushwalking Eagle, and the famous Tasmanian Devil. The Tarkine club, the Up and Downers BWC Inc, formally is also one of ’s most important Aboriginal Iincorporated only in the year 2000. Whilst small regions, and contains a diverse array of landscapes, in number, we are a committed and enthusiastic from giant forests to huge sand-dunes, sweeping group with day walks offered on about 40 Saturdays beaches, rugged mountains and pristine river each year and an average of about 10 walkers each systems. However, many of the Tarkine’s unique week. In addition to day walks within about a 2 hour values are threatened by destructive activities such as drive of the city, there are occasional social activities new mining, logging, and illegal activities such as and longer “walking trips” organised. Our group is poaching and arson, and less than 5% of the Tarkine no different to most in that the opinions, backgrounds is protected as a National Park. The Tarkine’s future and views of the individuals vary enormously but we as a wild place hangs in the balance, with conflicting find great camaraderie in our mutual enjoyment of interests for protection and local employment. the physical challenges and visual delights of bushwalking. Like many walking groups, the views on walking poles are many and varied with the “against” people citing that they are a nuisance, can snag on vegetation, get in the way when you are trying to open a map or eat a snack, or grab a hand hold, etc, that they can be environmentally damaging and that many pole users are inconsiderate of others on tracks by flailing about, hogging trail, carrying or dragging poles backwards when the track gets less steep or the user tires and thus putting others at some risk of personal harm. Of course the “for” people quote research and personal experience about preserving joints, reducing stress on knees, ankles, hips and spine, especially on downhill sections, of improved stability on stream crossing, soft ground or scree and of better confidence, power, endurance and posture. En route to Huskisson River, Tarkine region, Tasmania

On one of our day walks we set off from a fixed camp site on Tiger Ridge to walk to the Huskisson River. The forest was just magnificent with huge messmates on the ridges and rainforest pockets of amazing diversity. Our guides Trevor and Jane gave us copious information on the region and its precarious future at frequent stops along the way and on one of these occasions, David stepped away from the group for a comfort stop. On rejoining us he was Freycinet NP, Tasmania brandishing a walking pole. It had obviously been there for some time as there was lichen growing on David was definitely one of the “against” people, but the hand grip and it was impossible to adjust, but it as the years were beginning to creep up on him, he was a well known high end brand. We were all conceded that there might eventually be a time when intrigued as to how it came to be in such a remote a pole would be an advantage, but that time was trackless area. Perhaps another walker had had a somewhere vaguely in the future. In January 2013, similar reason to be in that spot on another occasion 12 of our club headed to Tasmania for a group tour of and had put their pole down and gone on without it. part of the Tarkine wilderness. A relict from the But we couldn’t help but wonder if the poor owner ancient super-continent, Gondwanaland, the Tarkine had got lost somewhere in the region and the contains Australia’s largest tract of temperate Tasmanian Devils had only left the pole behind! rainforest, and is home to more than 60 rare, David’s initial thought was to leave the pole at the threatened and endangered species. These include camp site for use by visitors as needed, but by the such unique animals as the Giant Freshwater Lobster time we returned later in the day, he had decided – the world’s largest freshwater crustacean, and the that since he had a birthday the following week, Tasmanian Wedge Tailed Eagle – Australia’s largest perhaps the forests were telling him something and it

10 | The Bushwalker Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club was time for him to give this pole-assisted Back in Sydney, it has been part of so walking idea a more serious trial. many wonderful day walks: Golden Stairs In the next 10 days the pole - Ruined Castle - Federal Pass - Furber accompanied us around Tasmania to Steps; Grose Vale - - Angle Philosopher Falls, from Pieman Heads Vale; Stanwell Park - Sublime Point north up the coast to Rupert Point, the Lookout - Austinmer; Pulpit Rock to Wineglass Bay-Hazards Beach loop, the Neates Glen via the Grand ; gorge walk in Douglas Apsley National Rocket Point - National Pass - Slacks Park, on a day trip to Maria Island, to the Stairs - Wentworth Pass - Valley of the Tahune Forest reserve and on a day walk Waters - Roberts Pass - Gladstone Pass; in the Walls of Jerusalem National Park. Asgard Swamp and Thor Head; Heathcote to Engadine via Karloo Track, Uloola Falls, Gurrumboola Ridge, Kangaroo Creek, Forest and Goarra Ridges; - Kedumba Valley - Lions Head; Forty Foot Falls and Box Vale Railway; Medlow Bath to Shipley Plateau; Mt Mouin circuit; and so many more. It even got to travel to north eastern USA with David in October 2013 and travelled some sections of the Appalachian Trail, most notably an ascent of Katahdin, or Baxter Peak, the northern terminus of the trail. David has certainly come to appreciate that the benefits of walking with a pole far outweigh the inconveniences. Perhaps Baxter Peak, Maine, USA the pole “sensed” that its work was done in that regard and it was time to find a size of the group and the time of the day, new recruit? In May 2014 whilst walking to mount a recovery expedition. Maybe in the Royal National Park from one day, poles will come with a microchip Helensburgh to Waterfall via the Burgh in them and we’ll be able to download Track, , Bola Ridge and their travels but for now we can only Couranga Track, the pole got left behind image where it travelled before David’s somewhere not far from Garawarra Farm tenure and hope that another keen walker on Bola Ridge. By the time its absence has found it and will enjoy its company Mt Wondabyne, Waters NP, the t pole at far right was noted, it wasn’t practical, given the on more adventures!

Willis’s Walkabouts Kakadu ─ No one knows it better

Join us and see why so many of our clients come back again and again. 30 years leading tours plus another 10 exploring the park with the Darwin Bushwalking Club. As the sole bushwalking representative on the official Kakadu Tourism Consultative Committee, Russell Willis always has the latest information. Our trips are designed to offer you the best that Kakadu has to offer in each of its six seasons. That’s right, SIX seasons. Forget the Wet and Dry of the tourist brochures. The local Aboriginal people recognised six seasons. So do we. The only way to understand how different they really are is to experience them for yourself. We know which creeks are flowing when, which 4WD tracks are likely to be open, when the vegetation makes walking easy and when it makes it hard. We offer a huge variety of trips so that we can give you the best possible bushwalking experience at any time of year.

www.bushwalkingholidays.com.au [email protected] Ph: 08 8985 2134

Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 The Bushwalker | 11 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Kevin Lindeberg The medallion on a topo map of the area n July 2014 I was invited by the Air Service and , seeing tree at the crash site. The markers were Italian Alpine Club (CAI) Arezzo action over Belgium, France and northern long wooden poles with a bright orange IBranch to revisit the 1933 death and Italy and was awarded the DSM. coloured tin-cone top to stand out against crash site of renowned Australian pioneer In July 1974, as a guest of the the seasonal green-leafed or snow white aviator and national hero, Squadron President of the Arezzo Aero Club, Prince background on the side of Mt Leader Bert Hinkler (1892-1933), on Mt Amedeo di Savoia, Duke of Aosta, I was Pratomagno. Pratomagno in Tuscany, Italy. The site taken to the crash sites along the bumpy In early 2014 Mr Carlo Palazzini, of was first shown to me in July 1974 by Mr spine of the mountain range in a jeep the CAI Arezzo Branch, contacted me Gino Tocchioni, the man who first driven by the Duke with our very special seeking assistance and directions to find discovered Hinkler’s crashed passenger, an elderly Tocchioni, who these two sites once again. The CAI Puss Moth (CF-APK) and Hinkler’s body guided us directly to the sites like a wanted to create a mountain walking on 27 April 1933 after Hinkler went homing pigeon. I returned to these sites track to be called “the Hinkler Ring” to missing after leaving London’s Heathrow on several more occasions, including honour Hinkler’s pioneering achievements Airport. doing some long-shot but ultimately - and to attract walkers from around the world for years to come to enjoy this beautiful Tuscan environment and its magnificent sweeping vistas. On 24 April 2014 I received an email with an attachment: a photo of the weather-beaten marker high up in a tree which had an additional 40 years of growth since 1974. The other site marker was long gone. Because accuracy was vital, I was very generously granted a free return flight from Brisbane to Italy by Virgin Australia in late July to View from the tops relocate the site if I could. On 24 July Hinkler was attempting to set another fruitless searches in the immediate region 2014 with my new CAI companions I record-breaking flight from London to for the Puss Moth’s missing propeller retraced the footsteps of my youth on Mt Australia when a problem caused him to blade. In August 1974 the Duke organised Pratomagno and looked up at the marker attempt an emergency landing on the a special ceremony on his Il Borro estate – still faithfully watching over the crash spine of Mt Pratomagno while flying at the foothills of Mt Pratomagno – to site. I unashamedly hugged the tree and down Valdarno, the Valley of the famous present specially struck bronze medallions said a grateful thank you. I was then able Arno River. He survived the crash but was to the Italians who found and removed to locate the spot where Tocchioni said injured. Photographic evidence suggested Hinkler’s body in 1933, including the Hinkler’s body was found on 27 April that he later succumbed to his injuries delighted and humble mountain man, 1933. and exposure to the severe 1933 winter Tocchioni. ceremony was held at the nearby elements some 80 m further down the On our last visit around September Achalet Da Giocondo on 27 July 2014 mountainside. His body was found in a 1974, the Duke and I placed specially announcing the creation of “the Hinkler composed lying position behind the prepared markers on these two spots, Ring” and monuments. It was attended by protection of a couple of smallish bushes. planting one in the ground at the death CAI members and politicians. The He was accorded a State Funeral with full site, and securely lashing the other to a proprietors of Da Giocondo, who are also military honours by order of Italian Prime Minister Benito Mussolini. Mussolini greatly admired Hinkler, being a WWI pilot himself. Hinkler is buried in a modest grave in the cemetery on the outskirts of Florence. It now falls under the care and protection of the Commonwealth of Australia War Graves Authority. Hinkler first flew a home-made glider on Mon Repos Beach at Bundaberg in 1912. Among other great record-breaking flights, he was the first man to fly solo from Sydney to Bundaberg, in 1921 in his Avro Baby, from London to Darwin, in 1928 in his Avro Avian and across the South Atlantic from Brazil to West Africa, in 1931 in his de Havilland Puss Moth, a flight commencing in - via New York and - and ending in London. He fought in WWI with the Royal Naval The Hinkler Ring – The red circled “H” marks the 1933 crash and death sites.

12 | The Bushwalker Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club environment can see each other across Casentino. “The Hinkler Ring” walks is as follows (see 2nd picture): 1. Begin at Da Giocondo with its Hinkler memorabilia and guide book 2. Walk up to the summit of Mt Pratomagno and “the Cross/Croce” 3. Circle back to the 1968 Hinkler Memorial Monument [Cippo Hinkler] located near the summit (but which does not provide any accuracy regarding the 1933 crash/death sites for visitors) 4. Progress back down and West along Alpine flowers on the ridge Mt Pratomagno’s spine to another of its high points [Poggio Varco di Monument (blown up by Italian partisans Castelfranco] to the remains of the during WWII as a protest against its original 1933 Hinkler Memorial apparent association with the Mussolini regime) 5. Progress further along the spine and down the mountainside to the track which leads East into the 1933 Hinkler crash and death sites, and the new The marker at the crash site - up a tree 2014/15 Hinkler Death Site Memorial Monument stone monument experts, have offered to 6. Progress East further along the construct the monument. It would be nice mountainside track and come out from if a large contingent of Australian the mountainside to Da Giocondo Bushwalkers could visit it. They could Anyone wanting more information or then walk the general Tuscany region, wishing to contribute in some way may perhaps including a visit to the famous contact the author at: monastery of St Francis of Assisi across [email protected] or 0401 Casentino on Mt La Verna, especially 224 013. t given its association to the Croce on Mt Pratomagno’s summit which is high altitude mark of “the Hinkler Ring”. When [The original rather long article has been no clouds cover the mountains, these condensed for publication here. I think I have historic sites in their magnificent pristine The Hinkler monument included all the important details. Ed.]

COMING EVENTS 28 February ‐ 6 hour, Pennant Hills 22 March ‐ 3 hour, Central Coast 2 May‐ 6/12 hour, Wiseman’s Ferry www.nswrogaining.org

Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 The Bushwalker | 13 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Burke & Wills Trek 2014

Paul Bateman

Camp kitchen

Sunrise Coongie Lake

he seed for this walk was planted a flock of Brolgas and sunset saw a few after I saw an ad in the Great Walks Dingos come to the water’s edge for a Tmagazine. For me it was an drink. opportunity to experience the following - Back at the Dig tree it was time to to learn the history of explorers Burke and register, get our mandatory gear checked, Wills and walk in their footsteps, to walk meet our fellow trekkers and be told how in the Strzelecki and Sturts Stony Deserts the walk and camp will operate, This was Coongie Lake and also the challenge of walking 330 km followed by an introduction to the “wag in 11 days. The trip was organised by the bag” - an environmentally friendly way of Born to Run Foundation to raise money disposing of your no 2’s while in camp. and awareness for Juvenile Diabetes Dave Phoenix, who is President of the Research. Burke and Wills Historical Society, then The walk started at the Dig tree on the gave us a talk about the history of the Dig 20 August which is the day that Burke tree and their camp 65. Burke and Wills and Wills left Melbourne back in 1860 along with Charlie Gray and John King and we would finish at the Pub. had left the Dig Tree on the 16 December There were several options for the walk: 1860. Dave would then add to the history (1) the full trek which 31 walkers took after tea at each of the following nights part in, (2) the first 165 km which had 7 camps, while sitting under the starry night walkers or (3)the last 165 km for which sky. there were 5 walkers. There was a group Day one saw everybody up early keen of 40 volunteers whose tasks included to start. So, after packing up our tent, setting up the camp site each night, having a hearty breakfast, signing on and catering for all meals, (which was collecting our radio, it was time at 7.00 fantastically done by 4 guys from the am to start the 40 km to camp two. Army), setting out the route to be walked Walking was mostly on the station tracks each day, manning check points, setting- of Nappa Merrie and Innamincka Stations, up repeater stations for radio coverage some being quite rocky. We arrived at the Lunchtime along the walk, and recording the walk on camp after crossing Cooper Creek at both video and camera. We also had 6 about 4.15 pm. This camp was near the camels walking with us just as Burke and site where Burke died after he had arrived Wills had done. There were people from back at the Dig tree to find the rest of the the Yandruwandha tribe who walked with team had left that morning. He decided us and also cleared the route so it did not to continue on to Mt Hopeless in the pass through sacred sites. They also found northern Flinders Ranges but didn’t get grinding stones and nardoo seed as we very far when he came to his demise. were walking. Many of our trekkers had to deal with I travelled to the Dig tree with fellow blisters after the long day of walking. trekkers Graeme from Sydney who had Day 2 was 32 km of walking along walked the Simpson Desert last year, Cooper Creek, then passing through Megan from Canberra who is Federal Innamincka station along some mining Police Officer and Dan who was our video tracks to the camp, which was near cattle maker. We travelled through a large rain yards built in the late 1800’s. We watched band which had closed many out-back the 1985 Burke and Wills movie starring roads, but luckily the walk area was Jack Thompson (soon to be released on spared the rain. Arriving at the Dig tree DVD) on the big screen, while sitting with a day to spare we decided to head to around the fire. Coongie Lake which is fed by the ay 3 would be 29 km. I decided to Northwest Branch of Cooper Creek. It is a Dwalk with the camels as my large expanse of water surrounded by hamstring was sore and I needed to slow sand dunes with many midden sites. my pace. The camels walk at 4.3 kph or 3 There were many types of birds including mph. This ‘fact’ was used by Wills to work Walking on the gibber

14 | The Bushwalker Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club out how far they were travelling each day. stretched as far as the eye could see. We He would then check his position each welcomed the 5 new trekkers who arrived night by taking star observations to work just before tea time. out his latitude and longitude. The camels Day 7 was a day I was really looking were led by Ryan and Natalie who are forward to (don’t ask me why). We had from the Flinders Ranges. They and some 37 km in a straight line walking on the of their camels were involved with the Gibber. Once we had gone about 8 km movie ‘Tracks’, which is about Robyn from our camp at the base of the sand Davidson’s walk from Alice Springs to the dune you could turn 360 degrees and all Indian Ocean. It was a very enjoyable day you could see was Gibber as far as the learning about their life and adventures Enjoying the finish horizon. To me this was the desert. My with the camels. thoughts were with the explorers as they Day 4 was 32 km through the faced the Gibber not knowing how far it , crossing 15 sand dunes would go or when they would find water and included another boat crossing of the again. northwest branch of Cooper Creek. Camp Day 8 was 38 km, starting on the 4 was on a dry lake bed. Gibber then on more dry lake beds before Day 5 was 30 km. We walked mainly crossing the Birdsville Track. We then had between sand dunes as they were running 8 sand dunes to cross before reaching in a northerly direction. After lunch we camp. walked 2 km across Lake Wirregatinginie ay 9 was an easy 25 km, mostly over which was dry but still soft under foot. Dthe dry lake bed of Lake Camp 5 was at another dry lake bed, with Uloowaraine. The camp was near The a nice surprise of a hot shower rigged up Diamantina River on Pandie Pandie by the organisers. This was due to their Station. After arriving at camp just after having spare water left over from previous lunch I went with some of the volunteers camp sites. Each camp had a 1000 L to move the radio repeater mast to a spot water tank placed prior to the start of the not far from Pandie Pandie homestead, trip. This was for drinking, cooking and ready to be used for tomorrows walk. Team lots of legs plus 2 washing dishes up (We were asked to use Day 10 was another easy 26 km wet wipes to wash ourselves to conserve walking past the station homestead, then water). I was told water cost $3.50 per a nice walk along the Diamantina River litre. before heading back into sand dunes This is also where we farewelled our before arriving at our last camp. fellow trekkers who were only doing the Day 11 - the last day. After enjoying first half of the trek. Some were now one last desert sunrise and climbing one wishing they had signed on for the whole last sand dune we had 16 km to go along trek. We were treated to a viewing on the the Birdsville Track before we trekkers, big screen of some of the great photos of volunteers and camels all walked up the the first 5 days taken by photographer main street together to finish at the Michael Dillion. Birdsville Pub, watched by a crowd of Day 6 was 33 km again in the grey nomads in town for the Birdsville Strzelecki Desert across clay pans, dry Races. The end to a fantastic experience lake beds and between sand dunes until with a great group of people, and I would we climbed to the top of a large dune We recommend it to any keen walker. A total walked along the top till it ran out on the of over $80,000 was raised for Juvenile edge of the Sturt Stony Desert. We had a Diabetes Research. My thanks to those Camp 6 great view from the top- there was our club members who donated to my fund camp, set up on the Gibber which raising effort. t

Su b scri b e to T h e B u sh wal k er Keep u p w i t h al l t h e n ew s an d devel o pm en t s h appen i n g i n t h e NSW bu sh w al k i n g scen e fo r o n l y $15 per y ear. Th i s i s t o co ver po st i n g an d h an dl i n g: t h e m agaz i n e i t sel f i s free. Sen d y o u r n am e an d address an d ch equ e o r m o n ey o rder t o t h e B u sh wal k i n g NSW In c, PO Bo x 119, New t o w n NSW 2042. M ak e t h e ch equ e o r m o n ey o rder pay abl e t o t h e Con - fed erati on of B u sh wal k i n g Cl u b s NSW In c as w el l : pl ease do n o t abbrevi at e t h e n am e! Pl ease i n di cat e w h i ch i ssu e y o u w an t y o u r su b- scri pt i o n t o st art w i t h . W e do n ’ t w an t t o du pl i - cat e co pi es y o u al ready h ave. Ships of the desert

Volume 40, Issue 1, Summer 2015 The Bushwalker | 15 Photo: Sue Stuckey, Hill View Bushwalkers