Part-V

Nanda Devi peaks rising above the National Park. in the world with the picturesque Madhya Pradesh, the World The Sanchi Stupa and its column of pillars. Rishi Ganga flowing all the way in Heritage site of Sanchi is a forest- World Heritage Sites in India a serpentine course draining the clad hillock crowned with stupas art and architecture in Buddhist basin. The National Park is and structures that represent the tradition. It was from here that renowned for several species of perfection in the Buddhist art and Ashoka’s son, prince Mahendra Text & Photographs: P.K. DE the hoofed mammals like the architectural achievements. It was went to Sri Lanka for propagating Bharal, the Himalayan Tahr, the Kushana rulers who initially Buddhism. Also, a nunnery was NANDA DEVI NATIONAL PARK Joshimath 257 km from Rishikesh. Goral, Musk Deer as well as the had consecrated Sanchi to built at Sanchi for Ashoka’s queen (Designated in 1988) Together with the famous “Valley carnivores, such as the Leopard, Buddhism; thereafter emperor who had been ordained here with of Flowers”, the Nanda Devi Spread around the base of the Himalayan Black Bear and Ashoka, in the 2nd century B.C., the holy order of nuns. The glory National Park is a Biosphere Nanda Devi and several other Snow Leopards. Notable avifauna replaced the original wooden of Sanchi as the seat of Buddhist Reserve covering an area of peaks in the Garhwal Himalayas, in the Park are the Monal structures with pleasing yellow learning and pilgrimage can be 630 sq km. The entire region the Nanda Devi National Park is Pheasant, Tragopan, the sandstone rendering them into realized from its extensive remains snow bound for six distinguished in the world for Himalayan Golden Eagle and works of art with enduring complex of chaityas, stupas, months in a year. some of the rarest and unique others. The floral wealth includes permanence. Ashoka built eight temples, column of pillars, high altitude flora and fauna that Through the ages Nanda Devi has the Blue Poppy, Brahma Kamal stupas at Sanchi, all architecturally monasteries and the four it harbours. Nanda Devi (7817 mtr) been revered as the mainifestation (Saussurea Obvallata) and several perfect and embellished with magnificent gateways adorning is the second highest Himalayan of Goddess Parvati, the Consort of other species of rare alpine flowers. forms and symbols expressive of the big stupa. Master sculptors, peak in India located in the Lord Shiva, and the hill people in Buddhist teachings. The greatest silversmiths by trade, had utilized SANCHI (1988) Chamoli region of Uttaranchal. the region observe festivals and of them, the big stupa 16.5 mtr their jewellers’ art in designing The Park may be approached fairs in her adoration. The scenic About 45 kilometer to the high and 37 mtr in radius, is a and delicate carving of the through the village, Lata, near valley is a spectacular wilderness north of Bhopal, capital of marvel reflecting the synthesis of massive stone portals. They drew

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 2 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 3 inspiration from the Jataka tales and depicted Buddha’s various incarnations and the great moments in their lives. Devastated by Aurangzeb in the 17th century, Sanchi had been deserted and lay forgotten as an earthen mound in the forest. It was re-discovered in 1818 by John Marshall, the Director General of Archaeology, to be salvaged and conserved in the later years. HUMAYUN’S TOMB (1993) Mughal emperor Humayun, the founder of the city Dinpanah in Purana Quila, lies buried in a grand massive mausoleum on the Mathura Road in Delhi. Built in red sandstone and ornamented with black and white marble, with high arches and double dome, it is the first representative example of the Mughal architecture in India in the characteristic style of a garden-tomb, a precursor to the

The Humayun Tomb in New Delhi – precursor to the Taj Mahal (left) and a latticed window in red sandstone (below).

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 4 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 5 great Taj Mahal at Agra. Its construction was started in 1565, nine years after the emperor’s death by Haji (Bega) Begum, Humayun’s senior widow; the designing architect was Misak Mirza Ghiyas of Persia. In the later period several other leading Mughals had been buried within this majestic garden- tomb; of them the notables are Haji Begum and Prince Dara Shikoh, eldest son of emperor Shah Jahan. It was here that the last of the Mughals, emperor Bahadur Shah-II and his three sons had taken refuge to flee the British troops at the end of the Mutiny. While the three princes were shot dead on the spot by Lt. Hodson, Bahadur Shah had been captured and exiled to Burma. QUTAB MINAR COMPLEX (1993) Dominating the countryside, the towering Qutab Minar in south The Darjeeling Toy Train. Delhi is a noble reminder of the Afghan rule in India. Ibn Batuta, storeys are made of red sandstone, by Alauddin Khilji in 1311. Also (DHR) has no tunnel en route. a famous traveller of the medieval the last two have white marble notable within the complex is the “Ghoom” railway station in the ages, spoke of the minar as “one decorations too. A cupola had famous non-rust seven mtr high DHR is the world’s second of the Wonders of the world”. been added on top by Sultan iron pillar, raised in memory of highest, being also the first highest Qutub’d-din Aibak, founder of Feroz Shah in 1368 which, the great Gupta Emperor in the world ever to be reached the Slave Dynasty of the Afghan however, fell down in an Chandragupta Vikramaditya who by a steam locomotive. While Sultanate in India laid the earthquake in 1803. Highly ruled in the 4th Century A.D. negotiating the engineering marvel foundation of Qutab Minar in ornamental with calligraphic of the famed Batasia Loop through THE TOY TRAIN, DARJEELING 1193, possibly as a tower of carvings, the Minar has developed highly enchanting sceneries (1999) victory. The attached Quwwat-ul- a little tilt through the ages, before entering Darjeeling, the Islam mosque was built for the though it has remarkably Other than for producing world’s train offers the joy-riders a grand use of the muezzin to call the withstood the rigours of Nature finest quality tea, Darjeeling – the panorama of the Himalayan snow people for prayer. The tapering for more than eight hundred years. Queen of hill stations in north peaks including the majestic elegant 73 mtr high Minar, having According to some legend, the Bengal is best known for its Mt Kanchenjunga (8598 mtr), a base diameter of 15 mtr, and Minar was originally built by Toy Train running between Siliguri world’s third highest. To curtail ending at 2.5 mtr at the top, could Prithviraj Chauhan, the last Hindu in the plains and Darjeeling in the the ten-hour long hill journey, the only be completed by his son-in- king of Delhi for her daughter to forest -clad Himalayas. Established train has now been provided with law and successor Iltutmish after have a look at the holy river in 1881, it is the world’s first a more powerful diesel locomotive several years. The five-storeyed Yamuna in the far distance. The passenger train to be hauled up by in recent times. This unique Minar has a circular balcony at ornate tomb of Iltutmish standing a tiny steam engine in a slow Toy Train was bestowed with the each floor. While the first three nearby is profusely decorated zigzag climb uphill to an elevation World Heritage status in 1999. with fine calligraphy too. The of 2134 mtr. The 87.5 km long ◆ Qutab Minar – as seen from the The author is a noted photo journalist. Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque within Alai Darwaza, another ornate narrow gauge (0.60 mtr) section of its complex. gateway was raised in the vicinity the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 6 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 7 Gondal THE ROYAL GRANDEUR

Text & Photographs: DILEEP PRAKASH

he constant drone of the broad gauge diesel engine overtakes the cotton-dotted landscape as the train swerves into Gondal, TGujarat. This erstwhile state was one of the first to have a private railway. The Gondal State Railway has some of the most exquisite stations with a mix of British and Kathiawari architecture. The quiet station has the photo of Maharajah Bhagvatsinhji who had the vision to create a modern state some 100 years back. As the rickshaw pulls through town I am amazed at its wide tree-lined roads, plenty of gracious architecture and European wrought iron lamp posts. Tired after the long journey from Delhi cutting through Ahmedabad and Rajkot, I check into the Orchard Palace. Located in a huge complex of fruit orchards, lawns and gardens, the Orchard Palace is a wing of the Huzoor Palace (the present royal residence) where the ruling family of Gondal entertained personal guests including relatives from other princely states of Gujarat. The “Room of Miniatures” is a

Swaminarayan Temple Above: Orchard Palace. as royal carriages. The fans, Right: Maharajah Bhagvatsinhji. switches and mirrors in the saloons are also similar to those splendid sitting room with a in use during that era. Viceroy collection of miniature paintings, Lord Wellington had travelled brass and antique furniture. More in this saloon to Gondal on recently a host of Bollywood the golden jubilee birthday celebs settled in while shooting celebration of Maharaja for a movie. Bhagwatsinh in 1935. The royal saloons preserved I now headed out of the pristine outside arouse the rail buff in me aroma of the Palace down to the and after a hot cuppa I’m trotting Gondali – a little river that curves behind a thick spectacled along the town. Near its banks housekeeper, who recalls that is the Riverside Palace. The “Maharaja Saab loved style and oldest palace in Gondal is the grandeur. These coaches here 17th-century Naulakha Palace. are unlike the ordinary rail Skipping a detailed view of both compartments”. Bearing these royal retreats I’m more testimony to the royal lifestyle, interested in the collection of it is equipped with a dining suite, vintage cars. The royal garages bedroom, bathroom and even a have an extensive collection of kitchen. The coach has been vintage cars ranging from a 1920s restored with furniture belonging Daimler, a 1935 Mercedes, 1935 to the times when they were used Packard two-door convertible,

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 8 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 9 Bahadur Shah Zafar THE EXILED EMPEROR

RAJIV BHATIA

hen India’s first War of Independence ended in 1857, the victors were confronted with a major question: What should Wbe done with its leader, Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last Mughal emperor (1772-1862)? The British came up with a typical solution, inspired by the mindset of ‘divide and rule’: Send the emperor in permanent exile to a far corner of the Raj, a deserted, desolate part of Rangoon, the sleepy city they had conquered recently. (They had meted out the same treatment to Thibaw, the last King of Burma, sent on exile to Ratnagiri in Maharashtra). At first, Captain Nelson Davies, the British officer-in charge did not know what to do with his new charge, the last resident of Delhi’s magnificent Red Fort. Setting aside protocol, he decided to accommodate the prisoner in the small garage of his modest bungalow. That is where Bahadur Shah, accompanied by his wife, Begum Zeenat Mahal, and grand-daughter, Princess Raunaq Zamani, along with two sons and other members of the entourage, spent the

The Bahadur Shah Zafar Memorial in Yangon. Above: Another view of the Swaminarayan Temple. Left: Sangram Sinhji High School: Gothic architecture.

European laboratory equipment, an antique clock tower and intricate wooden ceilings. Morning tea is served amidst the calls of peacocks and scent of flowering mango trees. I prolong the moments since the drone of the diesel waits in just a few hours. On my way to the station I steal a visit to the Swaminarayan Temple. Its large gateway and scores of colourful devotees lend it an awesome aura of devotion. The toot of the diesel greets me 1941 and 1947 Cadillac, 1955 In the centre of the town is the at the station and I set foot on the Cadillac limousine, Jaguar XK 150 most fabulous college building: board with a royal air! and a Chevrolet. Most of these The Sangram Sinhji High School. ◆ cars are restored and some bear It is a model of Eton in Gondal. It The author is a noted travel writer. the original Gondal State number has fabulous Gothic architecture, plates. Italian marble floors, old

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 10 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 11 sunset years of his life from death. He was immediately the people of Hindustan. when digging took place for a Chistiya Sufi order (Tariqa); later 1858-62. (He occupied the throne buried in the British officer’s However, history proved Davies – major renovation of the Mazar. he himself became a spiritual of Delhi from 1836 to 1857). residential compound. The burial and the Raj – completely wrong. It was identified by the special guide. He became famous for his site was concealed carefully and Neither the king nor his Mazar kind of bricks used in the 19th mystical poems that could “move Bahadur Shah was a sad and in no time, it was covered with has been forgotten. The century, and by the description the listener’s heart to repentance broken man, especially after tropical foliage. Davies wrote, as mausoleum stands as a memorial of the place of burial by and kindle the soul with divine the failure of the War of cited by former Punjab High to the last Mughal ruler who Captain Davies. brilliance”. It is also believed that Independence. The failure cost Court Chief Justice G.D. Khosla in adorned Delhi’s throne that was his poems contain predictions him dearly: a lost throne, brutal For local Muslims, it is a place of his book The Last Mughal: once occupied by Akbar and concerning future events. murder of his sons and exile to a worship where namaz is offered Shahjahan, among others. foreign land. The patriot that he “A bamboo fence surrounded the everyday and large congregations To Indians in general, the Mazar was, he sought the cooperation grave for some considerable gather on special holy days. The is a national monument, a vivid The Mazar in Yangon (Rangoon) of Indian Princes and Rajas distance. By the time the fence is king has been revered as a wali reminder of pre-colonial, is the final resting place of the against the British. In a historic worn out, the grass will have (saint), blessed with special undivided India – and of the king king, his wife and grand daughter. letter, he wrote to them that it again covered the spot and no powers. His death anniversary is who led, however unsuccessfully, It is, however, noteworthy that of was his “ardent wish that the vestige will remain to distinguish celebrated by holding a huge Urs the battle against imperial the three graves on the ground whole of Hindustan should be where the last of great Mughals (fair) lasting three days when free intruders. floor, only two are believed to be free”. rests”. meals are served to visitors and real, whereas the third, i.e. the It was Netaji Subhash Chandra musical events are held. The king died on November 7, Clearly, the British knew the king’s grave, is a decoy. His real Bose, a titan among India’s Courtyard of the Mazar (below) and the grave of the Emperor on the lower floor 1862, at a ripe age of 89. The symbolic value and the emotional grave, located below the ground Bahadur Shah Zafar was said to nationalist leaders, who turned (facing page). British feared him, even in his hold of Bahadur Shah Zafar on floor, was discovered in 1991 be a devout disciple of the the Mazar into a memorable spot

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 12 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 13 of national pilgrimage. With the During the time of Prime Minister and to pay homage to the last “I pay my homage to the memory headquarters of his Indian Nehru and Myanmar’s Prime Mughal Emperor – besides of the symbol and rallying point National Army (INA) set up in Minister U Nu, there was also a celebrating an important historical of India’s First War of Yangon during the Second World suggestion to send the remains of link between India and Myanmar, Independence. That war has been War, Netaji regularly visited the King Thibaw from Ratnagiri to the Indian Embassy in Yangon won. Never again shall India fall Mazar. He issued his famous Myanmar and to bring those of follows an interesting tradition, prey to foreign subjugation. We appeal to ‘March on to Delhi’ – the Mughal emperor to Delhi. started many years ago. Both on shall preserve our unity with ‘Dilli Chalo’ – from Yangon, However, the two prime ministers India’s Republic Day (January 26) our diversity; we shall be faithful perhaps while visiting the Mazar. took the view that these shrines and Independence Day (August to our values of tolerance, were part of the two countries’ 15), the Ambassador and other secularism and respect for all In 1949, the Bahadur Shah Zafar shared historical and cultural officers formally visit the Mazar, religions which have ensured Memorial Society in Delhi legacy and should be properly offer floral tributes to the the unbroken continuity for proposed that the Emperor’s maintained – wherever they were Emperor, and hold discussions 5000 years.” mortal remains should be located. with the Managing Committee of ◆ transferred to Delhi. This was The author is India’s Ambassador to the Mazar. As one journalist puts not agreed to. Prime Minister Myanmar. To mark Netaji’s clarion call of it: “By these visits it is clear that Jawaharlal Nehru decided to patriotism issued from Yangon, India has “reclaimed” its last king let the memorial remain in – at least in spirit. Some 125 years Yangon as an indicator of India’s after his death, Zafar is being confidence in Myanmar’s respect Portrait of the Emperor in the Mazar’s courtyard (left) and the graves on the given the respect for being the last for Indian national sentiments. upper floor. King of India...” Over the years, the Government of India has assisted in the A plaque at the Mazar. renovation and maintenance of the Mazar, with full concurrence (How unfortunate is Zafar, that and encouragement of the he did not get even two yards of Myanmar authorities. land for his burial in his own country). Indian Council of Cultural Relations (ICCR) too has made a In response, a resident poet in unique contribution; it has Yangon said memorably: sponsored several well-known “Do gaz zameen gar na mili to Quawali troupes who have kya malal, preformed at the Mazar to the khushboo ye kua yaar hai is delight of thousands of music yaadgar mein” lovers. (Do not grieve if you did not get What can be a more fitting two yards of space, the scent of recognition and remembrance your homeland is here in your of a man who himself was a memorial). sensitive poet? His deep anguish It has been an established and lament over not getting even tradition to include the Mazar in two yards of land for burial in his the itinerary of important Indian own land has rarely failed to dignitaries visiting Myanmar. touch the hearts of people: When the late Prime Minister “Kitna hai badnasib Zafar kafn Rajiv Gandhi visited the Mazar in kay liye, December, 1987, he wrote the Do gaj jameen bhi na mili dafn most apt and heartfelt tribute to kay liye.” the last Emperor of India:

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 14 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 15 comrades. Popularly known as the India’s Freedom Struggle ‘Mother of Revolution’, she asked her countrymen to pledge to ROLE OF WOMEN overthrow the foreign yoke. Durgavati and Susheela Devi were SUSHMA two sisters who played a vital role in the revolutionary movement of critical study of the history of women and through education, the Bhagat Singh era. With of India will reveal that, their empowerment. Durgavati – popularly known as down the ages, women have A Others who plunged into the Durga Bhabhi – Bhagat Singh had excelled both in war and peace, national movement included travelled in the Calcutta Mail on both through pen and sword, Madame Cama, Sister Nivedita, December 18, 1928, in one of his upholding India’s cultural values Annie Besant, Pandita Ramabai, escapades. and its ethical system. During the Sarojini Naidu, Kamla Nehru, freedom struggle, Mahatma Gandhi Durga Bhabhi appeared like a Maniben Patel, Vijaylakshmi Pandit, was quick to realise the importance meteor on the firmament of Sucheta Kripalani, Prabha Vati Devi of the Nari Shakti (women’s power) freedom struggle in India. Wife of and thousands of others who and empowered them to be equal Professor Bhagwati Charan Vohra sacrificed their homes to see the partners in the unique freedom she was a terror to the British country free. Even those who did struggle whose parallel is not found police. not fully subscribe to non-violence Kasturba Gandhi anywhere else in the world. joined the movement for a new An active member of the Naujawan All the delegates rose and saluted India through revolutionary Bharat Sabha, her most glorious Gandhiji did not expect all Indian the flag of freedom. methods. These included Durga moment came on December 17, women to become Jones of Arc or Bhabhi, an associate of Bhagat When Madan Lal Dhingra, the 22- 1928, when after killing Saunders, Ranis of Jhansi. He wanted them to Singh: Satyavati Devi, Khurshed year old patriot and an engineering Bhagat Singh and Sukhdev went to be as proud and brave as Sita. Behn, Lado Rani Zutshi, Aruna Asaf student in London was hanged in her house for advice and further “Rani of Jhansi”, he said, “could be Ali, et el, as also Durgabhai 1909, she said: “More Madan Lals action. It was her plan that they subdued, but not Sita (wife of Lord Deshmukh and Ammu are the need of the hour”. In should leave for Calcutta. Dressed Rama)”. He, therefore, gave a Swaminathan who served the collaboration with Virendranath as an English ‘Sahib’ he travelled clarion call to them to join the country through active social Chattopadhyaay, she started a with Durga Bhabhi and her child national movement and save the service. ‘If courage of the highest magazine called “Madan Talwar” by Calcutta Mail. national honour. The first woman to type is to be developed’, said (Madan’s sword) printed from respond to his call was Kasturba, Satyawati is another name to Mahatma Gandhi, ‘the women of Berlin. This magazine soon became his wife. A symbol of self-sacrifice reckon with in India’s freedom India are the natural leaders in this the mouthpiece of all Indian she displayed qualities of movement. She was the illustrious regard’. revolutionaries abroad. leadership particularly when daughter of Swami Sharadhnanda Gandhi was in jail. A pillar of The story of Madame Cama reads Replying to the British criticism whose only passion was India’s strength to Gandhi’s efforts for non- like a thriller. Even before Gandhi about the use of violence in the freedom. Of the 37 years she lived, violence she was always in the had started his movement in India, freedom struggle, she said: 12 were spent in prison, once with fore-front in all his non-violent she along with Sardar Singh Rana “Sometime back it was repugnant to a new born babe in arms as her agitations in South Africa as well as had unfurled the tri-colour of India me even to talk of violence as a companion. at home. She had a distinct outlook in 1907. In an inspiring speech she subject of discussion, but owing to She served 11 jail terms and died on life. “Kasturba’s outlook on life”, said, “This flag is of India’s the heartlessness, the hypocrisy and two years before India gained he said, “means the outlook independence. Behold, it is born. It the rascality of the liberals, the independence. She firmly stood for represented by Kasturba Gandhi is already sanctified by the blood of feeling is gone. Why should we swadeshi (home grown), and took and not Mohan Das Karamchand martyred Indian youth. I call upon deplore the use of violence when active part in Gandhiji’s civil Gandhi”. She died in the Detention you, ladies and gentlemen, to rise our enemies drive us to do it. If we disobedience movement Camp in Agha Khan Palace in and salute the flag of Indian use force it is because we are February, 1944, near Pune. independence”. The occasion was forced to use force.” Madame Cama Lado Rani Zutshi, wife of a Lahore Although she was herself an the International Socialist exercised tremendous influence on advocate, and her two daughters – illiterate she stood for the education Conference at Stuttgart, Germany. the mind of Bhagat Singh and his Janak Kumari Zutshi and Swadesh

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 16 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 17 Vijaylakshmi Pandit Sarojini Naidu Durgabhai Deshmukh Kamla Nehru Aruna Asaf Ali

Kumari Zutshi – also played a Gandhiji. She started a secret radio Kriplani, not to mention artists such weakness that seeks to hide its authority in the 1930s and edited a prominent role in the civil and called it Voice of Freedom. as M.S. Subbalakshmi. Captain poverty by aggressive and magazine called Andhra Mahila. disobedience movement in Punjab, Khurshed Behn, another young Lakshmi Sehgal, who fought bombastic sound”. These women social activists particularly Lahore. They started a woman from Maharashtra, worked shoulder to shoulder with men in broadened the base of the freedom new movement of women in the North-West Frontier Province the Indian freedom struggle, as In yet another letter to Gandhiji, movement by their active social satyagrahis, wore a distinctive and became a legend among the Head of the Rani Jhansi regiment of she said : “The specialists think work. uniform of red trousers, green shirts Pushto-speaking freedom fighters. Indian National Army (INA), was that my heart disease is in the Last but not the least, a word about and white caps. They stood for one of the most trusted and loyal advanced and the dangerous stage Ammu Swaminathan – endearingly swadeshi and complete prohibition. Aruna Asaf Ali, the heroine of the aides of Netaji. but I cannot stir till I stir the heart called Cheri Amma (Auntie). Intensely patriotic and totally 1942 movement, was made of of the world to repentance over the A founder-member of the All India fearless, Lado Rani was the sterner stuff. Originally a Gandhian, Sarojini Naidu was the Nightingale tragedy of martyred India”. Thus Women Conference situated in embodiment of self-sacrifice she changed her views on non- of India’s freedom movement. In a Sarojini Naidu was the poet- Madras, she joined the Indian and renunciation. “When a violent methods. She remained letter to Nehru, she said: “As I chronicler of the freedom struggle. underground for a number of years, watched your face while you were National Congress in 1934 and government starts arresting women, A princess of the erstwhile native hoisted the national flag in being given a rousing reception played a leading role in the ‘Quit its days are numbered”, she often Kapurthala state, Rajkumari Amrit Bombay, became Mayor of Delhi on your election, I felt I was India’ movement in 1942. A firm said. A perfect Gandhian, she Kaur was Gandhiji’s secretary for and won the admiration of all envisaging both the coronation believer in non-violence and stood for peaceful and non-violent 16 years and free India’s first Health politicians. and the crucifixion. Indeed, the Gandhian economics, she became resistance. Minister. Imprisoned a number of two are inseparable and almost a Member of the Constituent Usha Mehta of Bombay was, A brilliant orator, she wrote with times and lathicharged on several synonymous today, especially for Assembly and stood for a new India however, a different kind of great felicity. With Dr. Lohia and occasions, Amrit Kaur was drawn you, because you are so sensitive based on social justice and gender revolutionary – one who kept the Jayaprakash Narayanan she towards Gandhiji during the days of and so fastidious in your spiritual equality. torch of freedom alive with her founded the Socialist Wing of the martial law in Punjab. She decided ◆ response and reaction and you Freedom Radio. A scholar of Indian National Congress. These to forsake the princely pomp and The author is a freelance writer. will suffer a hundred-fold more exceptional brilliance, she was, in women of India proved that join Gandhiji’s ashram. poignantly than men and women the words of Dr. Ram Manohar fighting for freedom was not the of less fine fibre and less vivid Another name to emerge in the Lohia, “A woman of rare courage exclusive preserve of men. perception and apprehension, freedom struggle was that of and rare attainments.” The intellectual gaps were filled in dealing with the ugliness, Durgabai Deshmukh during the salt She came into prominence during by women like Sarojini Naidu, falsehood, backsliding, betrayal... satyagraha. Popularly known as the the Quit India movement started by Vijayalakshmi Pandit and Sucheta all the inevitable attributes of Iron Lady, she defied British

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 18 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 19 Homage

nation will be measured by the Swami Ranganathnanda contribution it makes to reduce the suffering and tensions and SAINT-SCHOLAR EXTRAORDINARY enhance happiness and peace among mankind. This is the road PRANAV KHULLAR on which India and Japan, both young and dynamic can march wami Ranganathnanda was a compassion for the animal life. together, along with other scholar with a difference: he In his Ashram, there was food for nations, creating a mighty Snever went to any school, everybody, including birds, beasts bulwark of peace and fellowship college or university – and yet and insects. in the world”. In such a short was an acknowledged authority One of the greatest attributes speech Swamiji had almost on Vedanta! He indeed was the of the Swami was his easy summed up India’s foreign policy. tallest among them all – no other accessibility to one and all. saint-scholar quite measured up A man and a monk like Swami Anybody could meet him any to him. Known as the Sage of Ranganathnanda is born but once time with any problem; the man Belur Math, Kolkata, he stood in many centuries. Death makes of money and the man of culture; distinct and yet universal. The no conquest of this conqueror of men without money and those The Swami at the California Ashram of the Ramakrishna Mission. Swami, who passed away in April soul, for, now he lives in the without culture. For Swamiji, this year at the ripe age of 96, left above all integrity. This value Swamiji laid bare before the hearts of millions of people in everyone was equal and nobody the world “poorer” – as Prime system can be brought back by world India’s spiritual wealth and whom he kindled the lamp of more equal. Minister Dr Manmohan Singh so proper education which is the excellence and glories of Vedanta, unifying the external aptly put it. As an educationist Swami different from gathering India’s great culture. “I do not and the internal knowledge, to Vedanta. His speeches and Ranganathnanda was even information. “If education is believe in the idolatry of tradition with modernity, welfare Having complete control over his addresses at various universities greater. According to him, identical with information”, he geography but I know that India with suffering, precept with five senses, the Swami was the have been compiled by the education is the training of mind said, then the libraries would be has a special role to play in practice and indeed living with flashback of the ancient heritage Bhartiya Vidya Bhawan, New rather than the stuffing of brain. the greatest sages in the world, awakening the world, morally life. of India, standing at par with Adi Delhi, and published in four Education flourishes only in and encyclopedias the greatest and spiritually. India, he said, is Describing him as a ‘Second Shankara and Ramanuja. As a volumes in 1986. Titled Eternal democracy. He often quoted rishis”. blessed with divine grace for that Vivekananda’, Dr Manmohan practical Vedantist he often said, Values for a Changing Society the Swami Vivekananda who said particular role. Singh, India’s Prime Minister, “In our effort to get a seat in the book emphasised that the society that “I consider every educated A great upholder of character in his homage to Swami other world, we lose our seat on can change in infinite ways in man as criminal, who having education, Swamiji often quoted During his visit to Japan in 1958, Rangnathnanda said: “He was an the earthly paradise”. response to historical necessities, received education at the expense the age-old saying that if “wealth Swamiji told his audiences that unusually gifted individual, a but that is no reason why the of the poor does nothing for is lost nothing is lost; if health is “India has invaded no foreign Born in Trikkur in the erstwhile teacher, a scholar, a sage, a eternal values underlying all them”. lost, something is lost but if country, never drenched her state of Travancore, now in companion of the needy and, human endeavour should be character is lost everything is lost. hands in foreign blood, nor Kerala, on December 15, 1908, he Democracy, said Swamiji, came to above all, a deeply religious discarded or even changed. Build character and build the enriched herself by exploiting joined the Ramakrishna Math in India before it went to Greece in person in the best traditions of Swamiji believed that spirituality nation”. other nations. Her international Mysore at the age of 18. Formally the city state of Athens or Rome. Indian culture and civilisation”. is a dynamic force that contacts have moved through the ◆ initiated into Sanyas in 1933 by The pre-Mauryan republics of “The glowing picture of what continuously propels us towards silent channels of culture and The author is a noted writer on philosophy. Swami Sivananda, the famous Lichchavi and Mallas were India can be tomorrow is marred the only human goal the commerce and never through the sage of Rishikesh, he worked as democracies in ancient India by what India is today”, he told realisation of God through turbulent storms of violence and Secretary, Ramakrishna Mission at where equal rights were given to the young civil servants at various means. war. It is this heritage – ancient, Rangoon in Burma from 1939 to all including women and Mussourie, and asked them to dynamic and pervasive that gives 1942, and also in Karachi from Chastity, austerity and poverty are labouring classes, whereas such go into the rural India to dispel authenticity to India’s voice on 1942 to 1948. He visited more the three pillars of spiritual rights were denied to the illiteracy, remove superstition and peace and tolerance among than fifty countries to spread the strength. All his life nothing working classes and women in blind faith. According to him, nations today”. message of Vedanta and wrote possessed him and he possessed western republics. Democracy Vedanta pre-supposes the more than seventy books on the nothing except the name of God, means a value system based on verification of truth before it is He concluded by saying “Today subjects ranging from Upanishads the service of mankind and equality, liberty, fraternity and, accepted. the greatness of a people or a

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 20 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 21 Korea. Antrix has also entered into the US aerospace giant Boeing India’s Space Prowess an agreement with the Nanyang Satellite System for floating a joint Technological University of venture for developing and EXPNADING FRONTIERS Singapore (NTU) for launching its worldwide marketing of satellites. X-sat satellite as a piggy back As envisaged, ISRO will integrate RADHAKRISHNA RAO payload onboard a PSLV flight. the service payloads supplied by Similarly Antrix has bagged a Boeing into the Indian satellite n a significant development, the services it provides to the US $10-million contract from the buses at the Banglore based Bangalore-based Antrix Corp worldwide customers. European Union to launch an Satellite Centre. The ultimate Ltd, the commercial arm of I MEASAT is also to procure from Italian built satellite by means of objective is to market satellite the Indian space programme, and Antrix India a new satellite for its PSLV. In order to accommodate the systems somewhat similar to INSAT the Malaysian outfit MEASAT launch in 2007. This satellite, to be increased frequency of satellite in capability and configuration. Global Bhd have entered into ◆ named MEASAT-4, will augment launches, ISRO has built a second an agreement to float a 50:50 The author, based in Bangalore, is a noted the MEASAT fleet with the launch pad at India’s national writer on science and space. joint venture company aimed at additional Ku-band capability. spaceport in Sriharikota island, pooling their satellite resources in Antrix is keen to build and launch about 80 km to the north of the economically resurgent Asia medium capacity satellites for Chennai. Pacific region. This landmark ASEAN countries. Another agreement was signed in New Similarly, Antrix’s tie-up with the Malaysian outfit, Astronautic Delhi in December last year when Space Imaging of USA has resulted Technology, has already signed an the Malaysian Prime Minister in a fast growing market for the agreement with Antrix for making Abdullah Ahamad Badwai visited high quality resources data use of the services of the Indian India. An official statement issued generated by the fully Indian space vehicles – the four stage on the occasion observed designed and developed IRS series Polar Satellite Launch Vehicle that the move will eventually of earth observation spacecraft. (PSLV) featuring alternate liquid culminate in the development Thanks to this partnership today and solid fuel-driven stages, and PSLV on the launch-pad. of a “satellite neighourhood” for IRS data accounts for one-fifth of the three-stage Geosynchronous advanced space launcher millions of broadcasting and the satellite resources data sold INSAT-2E. Satellite Launch Vehicle (GSLV) developed by ISRO. GSLV would telecommunications customers globally. Growing demand for such equipped with an upper cryogenic be used to orbit the Indian made spread across the Asia Pacific Haji Mohammed Hanif Omar, data reflects the giant strides made engine stage. INSAT class satellites which earlier region. Director of the Measat Satellite by India in the global space market. used to be launched abroad. Systems Sdn Bhd of Malaysia, said The synergy of Antrix-MEASAT Today India boasts of having one of Indeed, the creation of this “satellite “we have been using the Indian tie-up is also expected to lead to the largest constellations of remote- Simultaneously, ISRO is developing neighbourhood” through the joint space technology and expertise the extensive use of MEASAT’s new sensing satellites in the world. a heavy lift-off version of GSLV venture would help position India’s on Measat-1 and Measat-3 teleport and broadcast center, in According to Prof U.R. Rao, a called GSLV MK-III that would be multipurpose domestic spacecraft programmes”. addition to exploring the possibility former chairman of ISRO, India’s capable of launching 4-tonne class system INSAT as a leading satellite of developing a world class teleport strength in the area of satellite communications satellites. GSLV system in the Asia Pacific market The INSAT system, commissioned in India. As envisaged now, the based remote sensing is globally MK-III is expected to be ready where the demand for high quality in 1983, is considered to be the joint venture company is expected recognized. More than twenty before the end of this decade. satellite-based services is on the largest communications satellite to have headquarters in Bangalore. ground stations spread around the It would give a big thrust to upswing. The fully Indian designed constellation in the Asia Pacific The ISRO sources in Bangalore world receive data directly from the India’s plan to enter the global and developed INSAT system region. At present under an point out that the ultimate objective IRS series of spacecraft. market for launching commercial continues to support agreement with Intelsat of the venture is to jointly market at communications satellites. telecommunications, broadcasting, (International Telecommunications Meanwhile India’s efforts to enter the international level satellites meteorological and educational Satellite Organization), India has the global market for launching Antrix which has supplied satellite using ISRO’s technological prowess sectors in India in a big way. No leased eleven 36 MHz equivalent satellites has crossed yet another components, hardware and systems and MEASAT’s marketing skills. wonder the Indian Space Research of units of C-band capacity milestone with the successful to satellite fabricators in North Organization (ISRO) hopes that onboard the INSAT-2E satellite Anrix Corp has also made gains in development of a cryogenic engine America and West Europe, is now INSAT system capability will find launched in April 1999. It is for the marketing the services of PSLV that would replace the Russian preparing to enter the global ready users in Malaysia, Indonesia, first time that Intelsat has looked which has so far launched four supplied upper stage cryogenic market for medium class Philippines, Singapore and beyond its own constellation of satellites on commercial basis for engine in GSLV. It is described as communications satellites. For, Australia. satellites to support the range of Germany, Belgium and South the most sophisticated and highly discussions are currently on with

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 22 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 23 In a way Tansen immortalized all those connected with its Khurshid production – director Jayant Desai SINGING SIREN OF EARLY TALKIES and the music director Khemchand Prakash who played PRAN NEVILE no small role in grooming Khurshid into a consummate he recent centenary as A.R. Kardar, R.L. Shorey and artiste who could sing any song celebrations of K.L. Saigal, J.K. Nanda made talkies. with equal ease. the immortal singer and Khurshid appeared in Shorey’s T Later, though Khurshid appeared superstar of the 20th century, also Kamla Movietone production evoked the memories of Khurshid “Radhey Shyaam” and then as a in Shahenshah Babar, Mumtaz who passed away four years ago heroine in Swarg Ki Seedhi Mahal (1944) Moorti, Prabhu Ka in April, 2001. A leading singing directed by J.K. Nanda (1935). Ghar (1945) Maharana Pratap star in the early 1940s, Khurshid Unfortunately, all those films (1946), but none of these could attained countrywide fame and produced at Lahore flopped make any mark in the film world. popularity after teaming up with miserably at the box office and Khurshid left for Pakistan in 1947 K.L. Saigal in Ranjit’s great hit the artistes and technicians were with her husband Lala Yakub, an Bhakat Surdas (1942). A forced to quit Lahore and seek actor with Kardar productions charming personality with an their fortune in the successful film whom she had married earlier in extraordinary acting talent, companies of Calcutta and 1946. According to M. Rafiq, a Khurshid was also an Bombay (now Kolkata and famous film historian in England, accomplished singer. Sharing with Mumbai). With K.L. Saigal in Tansen (1942). Khurshid was not so active in Saigal their common Punjabi Pakistan and appeared as heroine Khurshid moved over to Bombay Fortune smiled on Khurshid and of Ranjit, to play the heroine background and outlook, only in two films – both in 1956: in 1935 and joined Saroj in 1940, she rose to stardom with opposite the legendary K.L. Saigal Khurshid with her lively, Fankar and Mandi. Unfortunately, Movietone. After struggling for a the Ranjit’s box office hit ‘Holi’ in “Bhagat Surdas”. The story of unrestrained performance showed these films despite Khurshid’s few years she finally made her ‘when she co-starred with the Surdas has always provided a up as a natural heroine of Saigal. songs and Rafiq Ghaznavi’s music mark in Sitara (1939) produced then famous hero Motilal. popular social plot to stage and On his part, Saigal too gave the under glamorous native names. failed at the box office. After by Everest Pictures and directed Directed by A.R. Kardar with screen writers. Khurshid’s superb impression of being perfectly at Ruby Myers, a telephone leaving Yakub in 1956, she by Ezra Mir with music by Rafiq D.N. Madhok’s tuneful lyrics set performance in the role of ease with Khurshid and his operator, became Sulochana-the married a businessman Irshad Ghaznavi. It was a romantic to music by Khemchand Prakash Chintamani, the courtesan who performance was both candid leading star of the early 1930s. Bhaimiyan and came to be drama set in a fantasy version of (who was to create a sensation transforms Bilwamangal, her and spontaneous. No wonder, Then there was Irene Gasper known as Mrs. Irshad Begum. a gypsy life. Khurshid was few years later with ‘Ayega lover, into a saintly figure was Saigal-Khurshid duo instantly who appeared in some films as Hereafter, she retired from the acclaimed for her remarkable annewala’ in Mahal in 1949), applauded in superlative terms. shot into limelight and both were Sabita Devi. But as they were not films and engaged herself in performance and hailed as a the film earned her fame and She embellished it further with acclaimed as superstars. proficient in Hindi-Urdu, they philanthropic work. She chose to budding actress of great promise popularity. Her other notable hits her solos and popular duets with were replaced by the keep herself aloof and declined Born around 1912-14 in with her charming, seductive were Musafir, Shadi and Pardesi. Saigal. The following year (1943), professional, well-trained theatre to give any interviews or talk Choonian tehsil of Lahore, looks and lovely husky voice. Playing the heroine’s role with she scaled still greater heights in artistes. about her film career. Many Khurshid embarked on her She was earlier noticed in Saroj Motilal, the upcoming superstar her second appearance with singing filmstars tried to copy her professional career with Madan Khurshid with her screen name film Murad (1937) with the of Bombay, Khurshid reached the K.L. Saigal in Tansen, one of the style but without much success. Theatres of Calcutta after the Miss Shelha made her debut well-known hero Jairaj who pinnacle of her fame in Pardesi all-time great classics of Indian Khurshid died on 18th of April, advent of Talkies in 1931. Madan with a role in Madan Theatres recorded that Khurshid was the released in 1941. Her famous cinema. The film was a runaway 2001, in Karachi after a prolonged was then the leading film Laila Majnu. She followed it up third heroine whom he had number “Pehle Jo Mohabbat se success and Khurshid was voted illness. She had a God-gifted producing company in India with with some supporting roles in kissed on the screen, the other Inqar Kiya Hota” (If only you had as the top superstar by the voice and a natural talent of a chain of cinema houses all over Shakuntala. Chitra Bakavali, two being of the silent era, earlier said ‘no’ to my love...) audiences. It was Tansen which turning songs into enchanting the country. The heroines in the Hathili Dulhan and Muflis Ashiq Madhuri (Meena Kumari’s eldest established her as the leading brought fame to the Bombay film melodies for the listeners. silent era were mostly drawn (1933). In the meantime, there sister) in ‘My Hero’ (1930) and singing actress of her time. This industry in the world of music ◆ from the Anglo-Indian was hectic activity in Lahore the popular heroine of ‘She’ or paved the way for her selection which was until then dominated The author is a noted writer. community who joined films and a number of producers such Aurat, Zebunissa. by Chandulal Shah, the chief by the New Theatres of Calcutta.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 24 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 25 and reach beyond into the unknown, the unfathomable”. By a simple touch and feel of a particular metal in their hands they could conjure what was missing in the metal and what needed to be added to create that prefect objet de’art which would almost be a divine craft! Blacksmiths used to wait for the right time of the day when the planetary configuration was perfect, rays of the moon and the sun would strike the lump of metal at a particular angle at an appropriate time so that the metal would imbibe all the divine properties. It is only after this that the blacksmiths would break open the metal and begin crafting their perfect piece of metal art. If the spirit of man would not Self-Healing Alloy work in tandem with nature, the THE UNIQUE QUTUB MINAR IRON PILLAR creation would be imperfect. Today even after innumerable Text & Photographs: JAANAVI PRASADA experiments by the top archaeologists, corrosion etals are an important technologists and metallurgists to element of our being; find out the uniqueness of the they possess an energy Iron pillar that lends it self M healing properties since time of the divine consciousness that is inherent in each one of us. The imemorial, no one has been able famous Iron Pillar in the Qutub to make any headway or replicate Minar complex in India’s capital, the iron contents of the Pillar. New Delhi, is one such example It remains a living example of the genius of the Indian mind. of creating metal art though the ◆ sixth sense! own, just like a human body 320-540. It is made up of 98 per The author is a freelance writer/ would heal itself in due course in cent wrought iron of impure photographer and filmmaker. At first glance, the Iron Pillar case of any abrasion. quality. It is the only reminder looks like any other till one is of a Hindu temple which stood told of its rare qualities. It has The Iron Pillar stands tall, over there before being destroyed by survived hail, storm, dust and seven metres high and weighing Qutub-ud-din-Aibak to build the rains for the past 1600 years more than six tonnes. It is a living Qutub Minar. without a trace of any decay or testimony to the erudite skills rusting. Metallurgists are foxed by achieved by ancient Indian Indian metallurgits of the past the fact that if and when any metallurgists in the extraction and were always guided by their traces of rust do appear on the processing of iron during the inner consciousness. They were pillar, its self-healing properties reign of the Gupta dynasty that seen as “shaman, a visionary, rid the Pillar of the rust on its ruled northern India in AD who could transcend given reality

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 26 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 27 Books

There is the story of the quiz because not only did I have to internet in particular, has placed show contestant Ram Mohammed flesh out the life story of this poor so many tools at our disposal, Q & A Thomas, and there are the goings orphan boy, but had to do so besides having access to so many EXPLORING URBAN UNDERBELLY… on in the quiz show itself. And to while following the conventions other resources now that one can my mind the novel has pace of a quiz show. really get all the details of a because of this dualism, this particular situation. Another problem was that I could An Indian writer in English making waves on the international scene is not a new phenomenon. This contradiction, this tension not narrate my protagonist’s life Q:What necessitated the between these two strands of the time it is a diplomat. Vikas Swarup’s debut novel ‘Q and A’ has reportedly bagged a million pounds as story from birth to till he is an undercurrent of crime throughout novel. The distance of the quiz advance royalty. It has not only been translated into twelve European languages and being adapted for eighteen-year old boy in a strictly the narrative? a musical in London, but is also steadily making it to the bestseller list in England and America within show contestant from the top prize is what, I think, powers the chronological order because if, A: Considering that I was writing for instance, the questions on the days of its launch in April this year. narrative. about the underbelly of urban quiz show had followed the Suresh Kohli spoke to the debutant novelist in a free wheeling interview, excerpts of which are being Q:Weren’t you apprehensive India, an undercurrent of crime progression of his life that would was perhaps unavoidable. But it reproduced here: about the acceptance of the have been too coincidental. You narrative form? did worry me that too many cannot have the first question people die in the novel. A: I certainly was a bit coming when he is two years old However, once I got under the Q:It is said that each individual mobile internet facility. And that apprehensive. In fact, after I had or the second when he is five skin of my central character, the has a novel in him or her and is what set me thinking. Normally written the novel I thought to years old. He had to go back and story took a life of its own. Once some of us try to give it a shape. you associate the internet with myself that in this perfectly good forth in time. So the challenge for Ram Mohammed Thomas became Tell us how did you give your people of a certain standing, story of Ram Mohammed Thomas, me was to ensure that while the a real character for me, it was reader maintains the thread of his novel the shape that it finally people who are in tune with should I just stick to only his life then he who was dictating to me acquired? technology, who are well story and not get into the Who life story, at the same time the what to write about him. educated, but here were slum Will Win a Billion format? I was questions should appear A: First of all, I wanted to write children who had never been to worried that some people might convincing and follow the format Q: Okay, but why do you call something different, as the cliché school, who had never read a consider it too gimmicky, whereas of a quiz show where the your protagonist Ram Mohammed goes. I did not want to write a newspaper in their life, and they the life story of Ram Mohammed questions are normally Thomas? typical family saga, a generational were logging on to the worldwide Thomas as I had fleshed it out interspersed. Two questions on A: Well, the name is pregnant love story or something like that. web. So perhaps it is not just a was itself quite engrossing and sports cannot follow one after the with meaning. I really wanted I wanted to write something off- question of upbringing and engaging. But then I thought to other, there has to be a question him to represent the ‘richness beat. Having been a keen quizzer environment. There is something myself who will want to read the on popular science, or a question and diversity of India’, as one myself, I have always been inherent in all of us, maybe a story of a poor waiter. The story on cinema and things like that. character does say in the novel. intrigued by the psychology latent possibility which given the of a poor waiter is interesting The idea was to follow the I also wanted him to be an iconic underlying a quiz show. For right opportunity can come to the precisely because he has won a normal conventions of a quiz figure, sort of combining in instance, when a quiz show fore and can be exploited. So it billion. He is nobody unless he show, and at the same time himself the microcosm of India, contestant is asked a question was these two strands which has won the biggest jackpot on ensure that the story does not get and you see he uses these three what goes through his mind, his formed the backbone of my earth. And then I realized that the lost in the transition to TV. in fifty or sixty countries. Around names very effectively. To a answer is the end product of novel. I decided to have as my quiz show is central to the plot. the same time, the scandal broke Q: It is obvious that despite Muslim he becomes Mohammed, what? Is it the end product of protagonist a person belonging to In fact the opening line itself: about an army major who won a being your first novel, it is not to a Christian he becomes what he has read or could it be the lower strata of society, “I have been arrested” is integral million pounds but who autobiographical. But where did Thomas, to a Hindu he becomes the end product of what he has appearing in what is called a to the story of Ram Mohammed confessed eventually to having an you pick up all those gory crime Ram. And how he adapts to experienced, what he has been brain quiz, and winning. And Thomas, leading to Smita, the accomplice who was signaling to stories, life in the Mumbai slums changing circumstances, and how told etc? And then it struck me, how he won, how various lawyer, making her appearance. him the correct answers. and elsewhere in the country? he unlocks the keys to the quiz why not tap into the global incidents in his life gave him the So if I did not have the incident show itself, is what the novel is phenomenon of a syndicated The second strand of my novel clues to the answers, that would of the arrest then the whole story A: It was basically my research. all about. It is his adaptability and televised quiz show. Kaun germinated from a very be the central thesis. You would would collapse like a house of Because I have never lived in resourcefulness that is the Banega Crorepati was big news at interesting news report I had thus have the revelation of a cards. And then I decided to go Mumbai for any sustained period leitmotif of the novel. that time. Who Wants to be a come across some time ago and private life through the medium through with this narrative of time and I have never visited ◆ Millionaire was a top show in which had perhaps got lodged in of a public spectacle. That is why structure. The bigger difficulty Dharavi – the biggest slum The interviewer is a noted writer/filmmaker. Britain. It was being telecast live my mind: slum children using a the novel moves on two planes. was sustaining this structure, cluster. Modern technology, the

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 28 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 29 is a landmark in the station architecture in the world and heralds the golden era of railway architecture in India. Combining VT the best of architecture of the THE ARCHITECTURAL MARVEL East and the West, it was SUDHIR KUMAR designed by F W Stevens. Opened on June 20, 1887, to ombining masonic mark the Jubilee Day of Queen grandeur with humility, the Victoria who was also then the Cmajestic Victoria Terminus Empress of India, its uniqueness – rechristened Chhatrapati Shivaji lies in its Gothic cathedral Terminus – now finds a place on architecture, its structural the World Heritage List, though harmony and its lay-out plan. 40 other stations across the It represents a happy blend of country too could claim this Gothic, Venetian, Sarcenic and status, says a new book. Indo-Islamic traditions. Of the nearly 7,000 railway Stevens was quick to realise that stations in the country, there are in India there was always an at least 40 which would qualify excitement for a journey. for heritage buildings because “Passengers come before the train of their exquisite beauty and leaves the station; they look at rare grandeur, according to the railway building with awe. K.K. Khullar in his book “Indian looked like a sparrow’s nest, a Architecture of the railways, Railways Architectural Heritage”. cow’s shed and some were so big therefore, should be awe- Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus is as 5-star hotels with innumerable inspiring”. The greatest attraction only the second Indian railway windows, more rooms than men of VT is that it attracts even the site after the Darjeeling working in them.” non-travellers. “People go there Himalayan Railway to have been The Indian Railways, only 28 just to witness the incoming and accorded the heritage status. The years younger than the World’s outgoing trains, to buy a author says stations like Howrah, oldest railway of the United newspaper, eat a meal and just to Sealdah, Chennai, Lucknow and Kingdom, acquired its Indian see the drama of life”. even small stations such as ◆ character when Mahatma Gandhi Egmore, Churchgate, Byculla, The reviewer is a journalist. saw in it a great integrating role. Solan, Shimla, Bilaspur and It is true that Indians in the Darjeeling could qualify for the colonial days had viewed the world heritage status. Railways as “a devil’s workshop” Of the about 7000 railway suspecting it as an instrument of stations, the beauty is that no two the British military might. “The stations are alike. “Architecturally buildings that came out of that they are known for their exquisite workshop are now pulsating beauty, outstanding excellence with life, an unceasing range of and rare grandeur, reflecting not activities beckoning one and all, only the soul of Indian Railways extending their welcome in a but also the soul of modern hundred ways and in a million India”. gestures.” Some early railway stations in Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus is

India were so small that “they one such heritage building which Prem Kapoor

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 30 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 31 into equal parts, it is only a the Meghna, one of the most ‘celestial gift’ in the water lying fraction in its passage through important estuaries of the Ganges. in the valley of the Yugandhar BRAHMAPUTRA Assam that we will discuss here. Mountain. From then on it According to legend, THE SON OF GOD became a pilgrimage site. The Brahmaputra, the lifeline of Brahmaputra is the son of NILAKSHI Assam (India), flows from Lord Brahma – the creator of this The Brahmaputra has witnessed southwest Tibet, where it is world according to Hindu many upheavals of civilizations in reat rivers have forever In the northeast corner of India known as the Tsangpo, through mythology. It is mentioned in a Assam. The valley is an alluvial spawned grand lies one of the most spectacular Assam into Bangladesh where it 10th-12th century text, the Kalika land and the rapidly flowing Gcivilizations. History is rivers in the world: the empties into the Bay of Bengal. Purna, that there lived a sage snow-fed rivers of the Himalayas witness to the fact that Brahmaputra in Assam. It is Near Sadiya (Assam), it changes named Santanu with his charming find little resistance in its friable worshippers of certain gods and approximately 1680-mile long. its course to south-west and wife Amogha. In the Puranic soil. Thus they are constantly goddesses have always occupied With its fount near Lake becomes the Brahmaputra. After Encyclopedia written by Vettam carving out new channels and many sites on the banks of the Mansarovar on the eastern side about 450 miles from Sadiya Mani, it is mentioned that once cutting away their banks. Hence great rivers, particularly in a of the Kailash Mountains (the south-west down the Assam when Lord Brahma visited the buildings erected in various parts country so deeply rooted in her Elysium of Shiva) in the valley, the Brahmaputra sweeps ashram of Santanu Maharshi of Assam may expect to be ancient heritage as India. Perhaps Himalayas, at an elevation of round the spur of the Garo Hills (great saint) Amogha received the submerged beneath the floods it is the tangible life supporting about 16,000 ft. it is indeed a (Meghalaya) due south towards guest with reverence as her of this flowing river. Except in nature of water as opposed to great river with many a the sea. Here it takes the name of husband was not at home. places like Guwahati, where the most other life sustaining mythological and authentic tale to Jamuna and for approximately Brahma was ‘fascinated’ by her rock pierces into the alluvium elements that tantalizes the tell. Although this vast river flows 180 miles rushes across the level irresistible charm and could not soil, the riverbed is at a higher world-weary soul to seek almost 900 miles of its course in plains of Bangladesh till it joins resist ravishing her. However, elevation than the level of the spiritual answers in the mystic Tibet and is an important river the Padma, the easternmost unable to bear the divine towns. So if there is a breach in allure of the rivers. dividing the whole of Bangladesh strain of the Ganga, and becomes pregnancy, she deposited the the embankment then the whole

The “Umananda” Island. People bathing on its banks.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 32 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 33 splashing around the age-old dark rocks, is the famous Kamakhya temple – the great shrine of tantric shaktism (worship of female energy, the yoni). There are three main bridges constructed over the Brahmaputra. Apart from the famous Saraighat Bridge in Guwahati, the Koliabhomura Bridge connects Tezpur with Silghat (Nagaon) and a rail-cum- road bridge connects Goalpara and Bogaigaon (Jogijopha). A trip by crossing the Saraighat Bridge or by a ferry from Kachari Ghat to North Guwahati transports us to the old world charm of a bygone era, to the secluded serenity of the relatively new Dol Govinda temple dedicated to Lord Krishna. There is a sense of tranquillity in being one with nature in North Guwahati, where time stands still – untouched as it is with the hectic pace of Motorboats plying on the river. town is in danger of being ox-bow lakes and marshes modern life. washed away. The great displaying the operation of With over 35 tributaries like the earthquake of 1950 resulted in a alluvium and diluvium on a Subansiri, Bharalu, Dhansiri etc. flood that swept away half of devastating scale. However, the flowing across the states of Dibrugarh and completely ensuing fertility of the soil due to Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland and washed away the beautiful this natural process of alluvium Meghalaya in the northeastern township of Sadiya. A noted has resulted in the people Sukleshwar Ghat (top) – once gateway to Assam and region of India, the Brahmaputra Punjabi architect, Mewada, drew enjoying a contented existence. the eroding effect of the Brahmaputra (above). flows through some of the most a map of the new settlement and When the flow of the river is Krishna. Although Majuli is a long world. It houses the three picturesque places in this world. Chapakawa was born. Streamers as strong as in the case of ◆ way away from Vrindavan, it is temples of Umananda, can navigate the Brahmaputra Brahmaputra, island formation The author is a noted freelance writer. believed that Lord Krishna played Chandreshkar and Hargavri. from the Bay of Bengal up as far is but a natural process. with his consorts in Majuli. The Gadadhar Singha (1681-1696), a as Dibrugarh, which is 800 miles The Majuli Char was created in colourful Ali-Ai-Lang festival of great king of Assam, had built the from the sea. its channel out of the silt from the the Misimi tribe is also celebrated temple of Shiva which even to This deceptively calm river Himalayas and is said to be the here during February-March. this day attracts ferry loads of annually ravages the Assam valley largest fresh water, inhabited pilgrims during the holy festival with floods. Heavy silting has River Island in the world. It has The Peacock Island, an emerald of Shivratri celebrated on the eve caused the riverbed to rise and been the cultural capital of Assam blob of dark green in the of the new moon in the month of become an impediment to for the past five centuries. Ras sapphire waters between north Chaitra (February-March). Atop navigation. It meanders, forming Purnima (October-November) is and south Guwahati, is said to be the Nilachal hill, overlooking the numerous islands, sandbars, celebrated in obeisance to lord the smallest River Island of the blue waters of the Brahmaputra

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 34 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 35 into the mysterious world of collectible or not, is a delightful Hindu icons. The first commission treat for the senses, bringing one Crystal Gods in 1996 produced Ganesh, an in touch with the innermost exquisite creation of frosted and sensibilities as one is drawn into ODE TO HUMAN CREATIVITY clear crystal in the modern an unstinted worship of beauty. abstract style; the free flowing While all these crystal pieces are GAUTAM MUKERJEE dreamy curves of the figure definite collectibles, their steady ascination with crystal is as In Britain and the United States, promise to enchant even the most appreciation in value attests not old as the Indian the expatriate Indians are in untutored eye. Great pain was only to the unquenchable thirst civilization.The Sanskrit cultural exile, thirsting for taken to ensure authenticity of of the commercial spirit, but the F form but the style was entirely undeniable importance of fine art word sphatika refers to clear symbols of their ageless customs, quartz crystal, the root word traditions, beliefs and folklore. Lalique. For expatriate Indians, in introducing both meaning and sphota meaning ‘manifest’, that is, These are seen to offer relevance this offered an excellent definition to the somewhat something bursting forth. The in a very disconnected world of opportunity to rediscover their frazzled lives on the fast lane. elusive luminescence of crystal material pursuits where the own heritage through the novel And in the annals of world art, seems to capture the essence of familiar is often abandoned long medium of man-made crystal, a the crystal gods will remain a the human spirit, self-illumined before the alien can be openly form of artistic expression much proud testimonial to the effusive prized in the West. creativity of the human spirit. and at peace. Surya (Sun) may embraced. For the enterprising ◆ have been the earliest godly few, however, the answer may Ganesh, the ubiquitous god of The author teaches at the University of representation to be seen in the be found in art as a viable Pittsburgh at Bradford. the Hindus, proved to be true Lalique Ganesh in crystal. quartz crystal but subsequently, connection between the cultural to his fame as the remover of Pictures Courtesy: Peter Louis reflections of other key gods of rhythm that flows through one’s obstacles. The Lalique venture that was in vogue at the time of the Hindu pantheon – such as, veins and the beat of one’s turned out to be immensely the Cholas and later, the Pala Shiva, Vishnu and Devi appeared adopted surroundings. Thus it successful sending ripples of dynasty of India. Pate de verre in crystal. happened that a whole array excitement through the art world produces a gem-like quality in of Hindu gods entered the world The fact that sphatika does not and drawing the attention of crystal, letting surprising of man-made or manufactured have any particular colour of its other crystal houses. In 1999, combinations of colour come Daum Balaji in crystal. crystal. own might explain its appeal with Baccarat, the eighteenth century through the sculpted pieces. In the Rishis (saints), the old seers of of the Supreme Lord Shiva. Some Art aficionados based in Britain institution which once catered keeping with the by now almost truth who found in it a powerful of those spectacular crystals are initiated the process by coaxing exclusively to royalty, was standard ritual, Daum came up metaphor for the gunatita or known to have descended the most famous houses of crystal inspired to come up with its own first with a Ganesh of its own in attributeless quality of the through the lineages of select in the West to venture into the version of Ganesh. Keeping with coloured crystal. Not long after Supreme Self, the Atman or devotees of the great Acharya untested waters of Hindu the house style, the brilliance of appeared Balaji, a gem-like Brahman of the Vedas. In the and to this day receive worship imagery. Lalique, Daum and crystal was highlighted with the expression in crystal, that is both ancient Indian Puranic world of in private altars, away from the Baccarat are names that convey age-old opulence of gold – exquisite in appearance and legend, crystal acquired magical public gaze. both artistic lineage and regal thereby giving the new creation carefully sculpted in every detail. powers so that it was popularly elegance through objects of a rare majesty and splendour. A special characteristic of Hindu The most notable characteristic of seen as a valuable aid to healing exquisite beauty in quality lead- iconography is that its imagery is Soon to follow was the house the crystal creations is that they and purification; the crystal mala crystal, creations that hint at not partial to a select medium, of Daum, a vintage nineteenth are all finished by hand and that (necklace) of today carries that boundless opulence and clipped nor averse to spanning the full century establishment, with its accounts for their crispness and spirit. sophistication. Long used to gamut – from religious piety to novel pate de verre method of clarity. Ideally, subdued lighting serving the ‘niche’ markets of Legend has it that the great ninth cavalier expressions of crystal making. This highly prized coming through a sculpted piece upscale glamour, these institutions century saint-scholar, secularism. Today, colourful or technique involves pressing glass creates the best advantage; quickly saw value in Hindu Shankaracharya, received five occasionally garish images of fragments into a plaster mould, diffused light at the base of a iconography, albeit in calculated shiva lingams (phallus) carved Krishna, Ganesh or Lakshmi thereby ensuring controlled sculpture allows sufficient steps of strictly limited editions. out of clear rock crystal after merrily adorn T-shirts and fusion of colour and a distinctive refraction through the piece to undergoing great penance at handbags as sacraments of Lalique, of Art Deco fame, was lustre. It is a variation on the lost- present it in its full glory. There Mount Kailasa, the famous abode commerce in a mass market. the first house of crystal to step wax method of bronze casting can be no denying that fine art,

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 36 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 37 The Garden by night. A “Children’s class” in the open (above) and the Entrance Gate (right).

Delhi’s historical past. The use of Garden of Five Senses stainless steel in limited manner tries to provide a contemporary SOOTHING OF MIND & SOUL touch to the settings – thus blending traditional with the Text: CHITRA BALASUBRAMANIAM modern. A project of the Delhi Photographs: Dr BIMLA VERMA Tourism Development Corporation, it was so designed he Garden of Five Senses is a unique experiment. True to its that not a single wire shows, no name, it is structured around our five senses – that of sight, crisscross cables; everything is Ttouch, sound, smell and taste. It has been designed as a prayer planned underground. and an ode to the Almighty, for the gift of five senses that He has In consonance with the theme of bestowed upon us. Different aspects of the Garden evoke each of five senses, number Five is these senses, taking one beyond the realm of reality to a dream-like constant throughout the Garden, world of sheer bliss. With Qutab Minar in the backdrop, the ambience starting with five elephants at the it creates is just perfect for leisure and rejuvenation. entrance. A scene showing Spread over 20 acres, the architecture of the Garden blends superbly elephants enjoying a bath is with the ruins of Mehrauli in the south of Delhi. Its stone columns, reminiscent of such episodes pillars, seating arrangements and its amphitheatre seek to recreate along river banks throughout

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 38 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 39 India. The abundance of water is captures the essence of the found throughout the garden, a Mughal Gardens, with its visual treat for jaded eyes of city immaculately laid-out gardens, dwellers. On the entrance wall water channels, cascading of is a huge painting showing water and plethora of trees and medicinal plants and ayurvedic flowering bushes. John Bowman medicines, as the focus is on the has sculpted a fountain in metal nature and its healing properties. in the form of an upside down tree. The architecture of the Garden draws heavily from the Appealing to the sense of sound architecture of Delhi; we thus are a series of wind chimes. The have exposed stone structures little bells chime away in the that are quite predominant here. wind producing a soothing Column pillars betray the Lutyen’s rhythmic music. The earlier influence. Columns in the ceramic bells made by Kristine restaurant area are colourful, Michael have now have been more like what one would see replaced by metal bells. Next to in temple complexes. The stone it is the lily pond. paved pathways meander through The flora in the Garden is a the entire garden. delight for a true nature lover and The garden is so big that to enjoy a botanist. The sheer variety is and get an accurate idea of its mind-boggling. The bamboo dimensions, one definitely needs garden houses a variety of rarely more than two visits. The garden seen bamboos like black, green, pays a special homage to the Sun. Buddha and dwarf. A bamboo There is a Sun Dial, opposite bridge is to be commissioned by which on a high grass mound the National Bamboo Mission are dragons made by Kristine soon. The entire garden is dotted Michael. The harnessing of the with bamboo furniture, as Sun’s energy is laid out in the bamboo is excellent for outdoor Solar Energy Park. On display furniture. are two solar-powered buses The sunset view is a high point and cars, weighing machines, of the Garden. And as the night solar-powered bicycles, solar descends, the entire area takes drum, slide and a prototype of upon itself the look of an ocean. a solar-powered home. The reflection of mercury lights in The food courts at the entrance water creates a beautiful visual and towards the end near the impact. The place can truly be amphitheatre offer enough space described as holistic for the body, to relax. The sunken court of the mind and soul. amphitheatre with seats all ◆ around is ideal to watch The author is a freelance writer. performances and fashion shows. The garden is divided into exclusive spaces. The Khas Bagh Purple lilies in “Neelbagh” – Blue Garden (left top) and people at a shrine in the Wind chime – musical bells. Garden (left).

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 40 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 41 Usha-Savita, terracotta, 1952. mentally I am very alive and Wlerick, Constantin Brancusi, A view of Kar’s works. I cannot think of anything else Ossip Zadkine, Sir Jacob Epstein but sculpture.” and Henry Moore, among others. evoking an excellent fusion of CHINTAMONI KAR In London, he was elected to the technique and concept, the varied It was an irony of fate that due to Royal Society of British Sculptors branches of his style were SCULPTOR PAR EXCELLENCE student unrest, he could not seek and in 1948, he was awarded absorbing more and more admission to the Government Silver Medal and Diploma for nourishment from his Indian ROMAIN MAITRA School of Arts, which specialized Great Britain at the International roots. Once a French critic asked in teaching European art at that hintamoni Kar, one of India’s most renowned sculptors, at the Competition of Sports in Art at him how could he do a time. Instead, he joined the ripe age of 91 exhibited his latest bronze sculptures recently in the 14th Olympiad in London. thoroughly realistic piece of Indian Society of Oriental Art in an art gallery in Kolkata. Well-known for multiplicity of styles Even during this period the sculpture one day and an abstract C 1930 to learn sculpture. This in his sculptures and paintings, synthesizing traditional Indian art, the influence of his French schooling piece the next? institution of Abanindranath Bengal school and the European art traditions, this legendary artist has on his works was quite evident. Tagore was solely devoted to His reply was: “That may be travelled a long and checkered way from his adolescence days when Two years later, he transformed reviving oriental art tradition difficult for you but not for us; he decided to take up art as a vocation – despite disapproval from his his awarded work Skating the among the centres of art flexibility of mind typifies the family who wanted him to study medicine. Stag from its occidental style to education during the Raj days. Indian character. The same thing an oriental decorative idiom in is true about my sculpture.” “What drives you to carry on working so hard at your age?”, I asked However, during his bronze and named it Cloud him the obvious question when I met him surrounded by exhibits of apprenticeship in France from Messenger. In London, Kar was also invited his new sculptures. Kar’s face radiates and he says, “Making sculptures 1938 to 1939 and his career to teach at the Polytechnic. In the requires considerable physical effort and at this old age my physical in England from 1946-1956, Kar However, Kar was now drawing class, his approach to art was condition does not always allow me to generate adequate energy. But came close to masters like Robert inspiration from far and near, rather practical. He told his

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 42 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 43 students the very first day that he female principle is the inverted was a craftsman and as craftsmen position of this triangle and the are practical, his students should two triangles become a lotus. know how to execute practically. Likewise, the sun is represented For demonstration, he took some by a swastika. For the ritual clay and made it into a round offering to the natural powers, ball. Then with a knife he the altars were in the shape of scooped out some clay and made these symbols,” he explains. a hole into it and then again, he Although some may find a made another hole next to it. marked western influence in his After that he placed a triangular sculptural style, Kar himself does clod between the holes and made not agree with this observation. a slit below the clod. “So I told He says, “Due to my long them,” he said, “that by making residence in Europe, my the first hole I activated the form familiarity with western art, and of the round ball and with the my close associations with great second one, the ball was more European sculptors, it is only activated. Then, with the natural that I should have triangular shape on it and the slit, absorbed some western impact. I not only activated the form But while absorbing my western further but also dematerialized experience, I am not conceptually the material to make it into a influenced by western art. To human face. This is the first give one example, when I came lesson in sculpture.” back to India in the 1950s, I was commissioned to make a Although Kar likes to identify Caryatid in wood, 1959 (above) and “Symbol of Justice” (facing page). sculpture on the symbol of justice himself as a craftsman rather than for the Supreme Court. Without an artist, most would agree that a as they evoke the distinctive style toeing the usual line of depicting customary craftsman cannot delve of the traditional Bengal School. it as a blind figure holding a so uniquely deep into the balance, I made a mother figure aesthetic world of form and Kar is of the opinion that as one (as Mother India) with a child (as symmetry, life and motion like he grows in life, one realizes that the young republic), the former does. Any discerning viewer of architecture and sculpture are holding the book of law.” his sculptures in and around essentially based on the same Bhaskar Bhavan, a museum on principle. In both, the mass and Chintamoni Kar’s life is indeed a the outskirts of Kolkata which the void are combined and a success story. He became the exclusively houses his drawings, harmony is created. He also Principal of the Government paintings and his work would maintains that in the traditional College of Art and Craft in 1956 agree that these have exquisite Indian sculpture, however, there (and served for seventeen years), grace, timeless calm and lyrical is no dichotomy between realism was conferred the Padma poise. His featureless creations and abstract form. In the Indian Bhushan in 1974, D.Litt (honoris like Apsara (bronze) and Mother vision of sculpture, there is a causa) from Rabindra Bharati and Child (wood) are a contrast fusion of the outer vision, which University in 1986, and the Order in motion and poise respectively. is realism, and the inner vision of Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres His sculptures reflect his perfect which is conceptual. “Our iconic from the French Government in understanding of human form. symbols could be so abstract like, 2001. Above all, he still continues to make sculptures! However, his paintings on the for example, purusha or male ◆ other hand bear so little principle is a triangle standing on The author, an art critic and journalist, is testimony of his sculptural idiom, its base, and prakriti or the based in Kolkata.

INDIA PERSPECTIVES MAY 2005 44 ISSN 0970 5074

MAY 2005 India Perspectives India Perspectives MAY 2005 VOL 18 NO. 5

Editor Bharat Bhushan Assistant Editor Neelu Rohra

From the Editor…

In this issue we pay homage to one of the greatest thinkers of the 20th century – Swami Ranganathnanda, head of the Ramakrishna Mission in Kolkata. The Swami, who left for his heavenly abode in April this year at the ripe age of 96, was a scholar with a difference: he never got any formal education and yet was an acknowledged authority on Vedanta! He laid bare before the world India’s spiritual wealth and its excellence, as also the glory of India’s great culture. “I do not believe in the idolatry of geography, but I know that India has a special role to play in awakening the world – morally and spiritually”, he reminded his audiences. Education to him was the “training of mind, rather than the stuffing of brain.” He visited more than fifty countries to spread the message of Vedanta. During WORLD HERITAGE SITES IN INDIA P.K. De 2 his innumerable discourses, he always emphasized that the GONDAL: THE ROYAL GRANDEUR Dileep Prakash 8 “society can change in infinite ways in response to historical BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR: THE EXILED EMPEROR Rajiv Bhatia 11 necessities, but that is no reason why the eternal values INDIA’S FREEDOM STRUGGLE: ROLE OF WOMEN Sushma 16 underlying all human endeavour should be discarded”. HOMAGE: SWAMI RANGANATHNANDA: SAINT-SCHOLAR EXTRAORDINARY Pranav Khullar 20 In a befitting tribute to the great Swami, Prime Minister INDIA’S SPACE PROWESS: EXPNADING FRONTIERS Radhakrishna Rao 22 Dr Manmohan Singh described him as the “second KHURSHID: SINGING SIREN OF EARLY TALKIES Pran Nevile 24 Vivekananda” who was an “unusually gifted teacher SELF-HEALING ALLOY: THE UNIQUE QUTUB MINAR IRON PILLAR Jaanavi Prasada 26 and scholar”. BOOKS 28 We also carry a write-up on India’s space prowess – something BRAHMAPUTRA: THE SON OF GOD Nilakshi 32 that we have been emphasizing from time to time keeping in CRYSTAL GODS: ODE TO HUMAN CREATIVITY Gautam Mukerjee 36 view the giant strides the country is taking in this field. Today GARDEN OF FIVE SENSES: SOOTHING OF MIND & SOUL Chitra Balasubramaniam 38 India “boasts of having one of the largest constellations of CHINTAMONI KAR: SCULPTOR PAR EXCELLENCE Romain Maitra 42 remote-sensing satellites in the world”. More than twenty ground stations spread all over the globe directly receive data India Perspectives is published every month in English, This edition is published for the Ministry of External French, Spanish, Arabic, Urdu, Hindi, Portuguese, Russian, Affairs, New Delhi, by Navtej Sarna, Joint Secretary, from the IRS series of Indian spacecraft. Bahasa Indonesia and German. Views expressed in the External Publicity Division, and printed at articles are those of the contributors and not necessarily of Ajanta Offset and Packagings Ltd., Delhi-110052. India Perspectives. All original articles, other than reprints This edition is designed by Image & Imprint for the A detailed feature on Bahadur Shah Zafar – the last of the published in India Perspectives, may be freely reproduced Ministry of External Affairs. with acknowledgement. great Mughals, recalls the contribution he made in waging For obtaining a copy of India Perspectives, please contact the Indian Embassy in your country. Front cover: Lord Ganesh in crystal by Baccarat. India’s First War of Independence in 1857 against the colonial Editorial contributions and letters should be addressed to Back cover: Serene ambience of the powers. His ‘Mazar’ in Myanmar has now almost become a the Editor, India Perspectives, 149 ‘A’ Wing, Swaminarayan Temple in Gondal. Shastri Bhawan, New Delhi-110001. Photograph: Dileep Prakash. Telephones: 23389471, 23388873, Fax: 23782391 pilgrimage center, the author underlines. email: [email protected] Website: http://www.meaindia.nic.in