2 LIFE & THYME POST LIFEANDTHYME.COM A WORD FROM THE EDITOR The last edition of Life & Thyme Post is only three A lot of people took it as an opportunity to get We learned ways to repurpose and reuse, to re- months old. And yet, it was created in a vastly differ- creative—to actually cook—in many cases using visit old favorites (like the humble sandwich, thanks ent reality. I distinctly recall reviewing proofs while only what they had in their fridge and pantry. At to Jill Haapaniemi), and how to put that new CSA peripherally absorbing the news—whispers about a Life & Thyme, we thought this was a pretty exciting membership to good use through recipes like Sharon virus that was making its way around the globe. I was development, and wondered how we could help. Brenner’s kolokithokeftedes (Greek zucchini fritters) concerned. But I was able to harbor my concern from We tried to connect folks at home with farmers who or a versatile pesto from yours truly. the comfort of a café, punctuating editing sessions had surplus, or cafés that had converted into grocery Being at home has been a little foreign for so with cocktails at an honest-to-god bar, with servers stores. And then we turned to the Post. We could tap many of us. But it’s also been a testament to who and proper glassware and everything. I hadn’t yet our community and come together as a kind of home we are as humans, what we can adapt to, and under STEF FERRARI gone searching for hand sanitizer. And I had never cooking collective. And because our friends and con- what circumstances we can be creative. It may make SENIOR EDITOR once in my life worn a mask. tributors are from all over the globe, representing a us a little stir crazy sometimes, but seeing what Those first few weeks were...well, you know diverse range of backgrounds and cultures and ex- everyone is whipping up—that’s been inspiring. And how they were. You were there. Feeling the heavi- pertise, there’d be an easy solution to the monotony during a time when isolation has created hardships ness of isolation, I’d venture to guess a lot of folks that can come with home cooking—the boredom of we could have never anticipated and we spend most lived off some pretty strange food options in those the same old flavors and recipes. of our days attempting to adapt, inspiration is a early days, digging out the canned and dry goods When we started asking around, contributors powerful engine. they’d stashed in the back of the pantry, existing were thrilled to have the chance to share what they As I write this, there are no baristas refilling on breakfast cereal and granola bars (okay, maybe were working on, too. And we got more than just my coffee, no bartenders refreshing my drink. But I’m speaking for myself here). We thought we were one-off recipes; many wanted to give guides that my oven is in heavy rotation, right now baking off briefly bridging the gap until we could get back to would help form a solid cooking foundation. Like an my first attempt at the naan recipe in these pages, our favorite restaurants. exposition on making pasta from Ali LaRaia—one thanks to Meher Mirza. This crisis has redefined so Quickly, though, we realized we were in this for of the world’s most time-tested ration foods. Or much of our lives, but there have been unexpected the long haul, and then something cool happened. a formula for Parker House rolls courtesy of Alex benefits to our collective deceleration: a return to a With trips to the grocery store now limited, friends I Davis. A flour guide delivered by Elena Valeriote is more communal type of living, the space and time to knew to have never picked up a frying pan were sud- perhaps especially critical given how the stuff has perceive our instincts, and a pace at which we can denly talking to me in depth about their sourdough been flying off shelves. And whether for fighting tune into sensory pleasures. starters, extolling the scientific properties of a good anxiety or its inherent sterilization qualities, it’s not So yes, editing this time around has definitely Maillard reaction, recounting the phone call they’d surprising that we were offered a strong volume of looked a little different. But damn, does it smell aw- had with their grandmother to walk them through stiff drinks. In fact, alcohol even made it into Maite fully good here, right at home. an heirloom recipe, or the Zoom cooking class they’d Gomez-Rejón’s ice cream recipe. Because honestly, just taken with their favorite chef. what could be wrong with that? —S.F. A membership for the culturally curious. 2 We’re hungry. For true, authentic, meaningful stories about the culinary world. For information that helps shape the way we see our farmers and producers, restaurants and hospitality professionals, and 1 3 4 Q&A our world’s diverse histories and cultures—past, present and future. We haven’t been satisfied since we Pasta Grannies Take Tradition Digital launched in 2012, and with your Pasta Grannies creator Vicky Bennison on support, we’ll make sure we never appreciation for tradition in the modern age. You didn’t have formal experience with in cooking, but in making traditional stop being hungry for the stories using social media, yet Pasta Grannies foods. Do you think that’s here to stay? that mean the most to you. has found a strong digital following. You’ve got a movement of people who were We were filming, and YouTube is simply already saying, “I want to make things WORDS BY ALECIA WOOD the obvious place to put film. When I had from scratch, even if it’s just over the week- sixty-three subscribers, I knew exactly end.” Then you have Covid-19 that puts an who they were. We’re now nearing the intensity and an immediacy to that gen- hat began six years ago as a series of simple videos filmed half-a-million mark, which is fantastic. eral feeling, so it’s like a magnifying glass. in home kitchens as a passion project, Pasta Grannies My most popular video is a pasta from Would we all still be doing it without social has become a phenomenon, now a thriving YouTube Sardinia by a woman called Cesaria, who’s media? Yes, probably, but it’s another layer channel and recently published cookbook. Chronicling now ninety-five. She’s making lorighittas of making something happen even more. Unlimited Access to Our Journalism Welderly women across Italy kneading, rolling and cutting pasta dough [a twisted hoop-shaped pasta]. We’ve told People like connectedness and community. Your membership includes full access into all manner of shapes, these nonne are the stars of a digital anthol- her many times she’s world famous, and People send us daily messages about the to our industry interviews, investigative ogy that documents the country’s waning handmade pasta traditions. she just laughs. I’ve always felt I was doing pasta they’re making—most will start with Pasta Grannies creator, Vicky Bennison, has been splitting her time be- reporting, recipes, and so much more. something that was important, even if the tagliatelle or cavatelli. You need to get your tween London and the Le Marche region of central Italy since 2005. She audience was just me. dough right before you make fancy shapes. recently spoke to Life & Thyme from London about the series’ runaway Life & Thyme in Print success, as well as melding tradition with the modern age. Every quarter, you’ll receive our limited It’s interesting that a topic so centered Have there been any particular mo- on time-honored foods has found a ments while filming for Pasta Grannies edition newspaper, Life & Thyme Post, How did Pasta Grannies first come about? home on such a modern medium. that stood out for you? delivered straight to your mailbox— I was researching a book, which never saw the light of day, but in that I think it’s fantastic. It’s not something Sometimes, there are stories where you process noticed it was only older women who were making pasta on a for free. I set out to do; it’s just the way it worked think, wow! For example, Letizia, who’s daily basis by hand. These were lovely ladies who were getting up at out. Being able to harness that technology now 101 in Sicily. She was very flirty with five in the morning to make their pasta. I thought it’d be great to cel- for something so traditional is amazing. It our camera man. “Will you marry me?” she Access to Events ebrate those women and make a record of what they’re doing, because couldn’t have happened even ten or fifteen said. She’s in the book and wrote a little As a member, you’ll also be able to call they’re the last generation of women who actually had to make pasta years ago; it’s the timing and the felicity of essay on what pasta is because she didn’t first dibs on our events, panels and to put food on the table. I wanted these older women to be center stage. it. want to forget about her experiences. We often hear from chefs and other people about their mothers webinars.