William Patrick Ridge
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The Mani, in Southernmost Greece, Is a Land Where Myths Were Born, Gods Once Roamed, and the People Are As Proud and Rugged As the Mountains They Call Home
The Mani, in southernmost Greece, is a land where myths were born, gods once roamed, and the people are as proud and rugged as the mountains they call home. Jim Yardley gets lost in one of the last great undiscovered corners of Europe. photographs by Martyn Thompson WRITTEN STOin NE Traditional Maniot tower houses in the village of Vathia. travelandleisure.com 123 half-century ago, the road linking the Mani to the rest of Greece came to an abrupt end. In Patrick Leigh Fermor’s beguiling 1958 book, Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese, the proprietress of a guesthouse near the caves notices Fermor’s future wife writing a letter to a friend in England. “Well,” the proprietress says, “tell them in London that you are in the Mani, a very hot place, and there is nothing but stones.” Soon enough, I came to the stones. The road cut through a sun-baked valley where olive groves were pinched between the sheer gray cliffs of the Taiyetos Mountains and the striking blue of the Mediterranean. Stone tower houses rose from almost every hilltop, medieval silhouettes against the sun of late afternoon. On a distant ridge, I could see the dome of a 12th-century Byzantine church. There was not a modern convenience in sight; it was as if the calendar had reached 1150, then stopped. Here at continental Greece’s arid and remote southernmost point, survival has never been taken for granted. Yet as the road traced the coast, I began to understand why the Maniots were de- termined to stick around. -
The Stone-Built Palaiomaniatika of the Mani Peninsula, Greece
University of Massachusetts Amherst ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst University Libraries Publication Series University Libraries 2021 The Stone-Built Palaiomaniatika of the Mani Peninsula, Greece Rebecca M. Seifried University of Massachusetts Amherst, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.umass.edu/librarian_pubs Custom Recommended Citation Seifried, Rebecca M. 2021. “The Stone-Built Palaiomaniatika of the Mani Peninsula, Greece.” In Deserted Villages: Perspectives from the Eastern Mediterranean, edited by Rebecca M. Seifried and Deborah E. Brown Stewart, pp. 153-205. Grand Forks: University of North Dakota Digital Press. This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the University Libraries at ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst. It has been accepted for inclusion in University Libraries Publication Series by an authorized administrator of ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Chapter Four The Stone-Built Palaiomaniatika of the Mani Peninsula, Greece Rebecca M. Seifried The Mani peninsula, the southernmost projection of the Peloponnese in Greece, is the location of over 170 settlements with preserved stone-built architecture from the premodern era (Figure 1). These remarkable places are known locally as palaiomaniatika (old Maniat settlements) or palaio- chores (old villages). The settlements are small, comprising between 10 and 50 houses, and they were built and occupied by local residents of the Mani peninsula. The vernacular architecture of the houses is relatively ho- mogenous, constituting the typical one- or two-story rectangular layout (i.e. the “longhouse”) that is common throughout rural landscapes in the Peloponnese (Sigalos 2004a, 2004b:66; Stedman 1996:185–186). Roughly half of the settlements are still inhabited today, with the same houses that were built centuries ago serving as the foundations for modern homes and newer buildings constructed in the spaces between to form the nucleated settlement layout that is typical of modern Greek villages. -
Seascapes and Fresh Water Management in Rural Greece: the Case of the Mani Peninsula, 1261–1821 CE
University of Massachusetts Amherst ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst University Librarians Publication Series University Libraries 2020 Seascapes and Fresh Water Management in Rural Greece: The Case of the Mani Peninsula, 1261–1821 CE Rebecca M. Seifried University of Massachusetts Amherst, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.umass.edu/librarian_pubs Recommended Citation Seifried, Rebecca M., "Seascapes and Fresh Water Management in Rural Greece: The Case of the Mani Peninsula, 1261–1821 CE" (2020). Levant. 87. https://doi.org/10.1080/00758914.2020.1789316 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the University Libraries at ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst. It has been accepted for inclusion in University Librarians Publication Series by an authorized administrator of ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Seascapes and Fresh Water Management in Rural Greece: The Case of the Mani Peninsula, 1261–1821 CE Rebecca M. Seifried University of Massachusetts Amherst Libraries, Amherst, MA, USA ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4372-2164, email: [email protected] Abstract The Mani peninsula is a semi-arid landscape with few natural sources of fresh water, yet it supported a dense population during the Late Byzantine and Ottoman periods. This paper reviews the archaeological and historical evidence for water- management practices in Mani, concentrating on its domestic-scale hydraulic infrastructure (cisterns and saltpans) and the ports and harbours along its coasts. The data point to a critical shift in household-level social organization at the turn of the 18th century, underscoring the fact that people living in supposedly ‘peripheral’ regions like Mani nevertheless engaged in far-reaching networks of contact and exchange. -
Seascapes and Fresh Water Management in Rural Greece: the Case of the Mani Peninsula, 1261–1821 CE
University of Massachusetts Amherst ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst University Libraries Publication Series University Libraries 2019 Seascapes and Fresh Water Management in Rural Greece: The Case of the Mani Peninsula, 1261–1821 CE Rebecca M. Seifried University of Massachusetts Amherst, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.umass.edu/librarian_pubs Recommended Citation Seifried, Rebecca M., "Seascapes and Fresh Water Management in Rural Greece: The Case of the Mani Peninsula, 1261–1821 CE" (2019). Levant. 87. https://doi.org/10.1080/00758914.2020.1789316 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the University Libraries at ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst. It has been accepted for inclusion in University Libraries Publication Series by an authorized administrator of ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Seascapes and Fresh Water Management in Rural Greece: The Case of the Mani Peninsula, 1261–1821 CE Rebecca M. Seifried University of Massachusetts Amherst Libraries, Amherst, MA, USA ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4372-2164, email: [email protected] Abstract The Mani peninsula is a semi-arid landscape with few natural sources of fresh water, yet it supported a dense population during the Late Byzantine and Ottoman periods. This paper reviews the archaeological and historical evidence for water- management practices in Mani, concentrating on its domestic-scale hydraulic infrastructure (cisterns and saltpans) and the ports and harbours along its coasts. The data point to a critical shift in household-level social organization at the turn of the 18th century, underscoring the fact that people living in supposedly ‘peripheral’ regions like Mani nevertheless engaged in far-reaching networks of contact and exchange. -
ΔIAΔROMES Tailor-Made Itineraries
ΔIAΔROMES tailor-made itineRARIES TERRITORY CULTURE FLAVORS Δtailor-madeIAΔROME itineRARIESS GREECE AND BALKANS SIRIOS TRAVEL: Thirty years of experience and passion at the service of the traveler. Yes. Traveler, not tourist. In fact, we are targeting those who are not satisfied with what is already known and with the “all-inclusive”, those who are attracted to what they do not know. If you are tired of the art cities and the overcrowded, expensive beach- es and you are looking for a real, interesting and stimulating atmosphere, then you are definitely ready for our Greece and our Balkans. In this place, there are no sensational attractions, but an infinity of small jewels to be discovered with pleasure and tranquility. It’s a vast territory: many countries, many peoples and of course many possible itineraries that are always different. In this place “ mass tourism” does not seem to be known at all. The cuisine is full of original flavors, direct, true and abundant. You will not find any reinterpretations, mergers or ex- oticisms. It will therefore be a great pleasure to sit in restaurants and trattorias, where you can be sure to eat ex- clusively what citizens’ everyday diet predicts. The menu may be only in the local language but this does add to the atmosphere. The range of street foods is endless and certainly not to be missed. What’s better, though, is that you won’t need to spend more than a little, so this experience can take longer allowing the traveler not only grasp the infinite nuances between one people and another but to maneuver among the different languages and to recognize the influences, among which the Ottoman, Slavic, Austro-Hungarian, Venetian, Greek, Turkish, and Russian, as well. -
Kalamata City Tour
City Tour Kalamata Kalamata -Historical center of Kalamata (23rd March square and old town) -Castle of Kalamata -Cathedral ( Ipappanti Church) -Open Market of Kalamata (Agora) -Monastery of St. Konstantinos and Eleni -Main square -Verga area (with panoramic view of the town) -Port of Kalamata Prices 2 adults 50€ (25€ per adult) 5 adults 125€ (25€ per adult) 3 adults 75€ (25€ per adult) 6 to 8 adults 150€ 4 adults 100€ (25€ per adult) If there are kids up to 12yo please inform us 1 Kalamata town The natural beauty of Mes- sinia with the indented shores, sandy beaches, forested mountains and fertile valleys, coexists with significant ar- chaeological monuments. Ka- lamata, the capital and central port of Messinia, is situated at the site of ancient Farai. Fol- lowing independence from the Turks and thanks to the exploi- tation of the fertile Messinian lands (producing olive oil, rai- sins, figs etc), it developed into a wealthy urban centre and a significant port. It is located 238 km SW of Athens. Walking around The point of reference par excellence in the city of Kalamata is the leg- endary “castle of Isabeau” where the renowned International Dance Festival takes place annually. It is amphitheatrically constructed on the site of the Farai acropolis offering a bird’s eye view of the city. Constructed in the 13th century by William Villehardouin, it under- went subsequent additions and conversions by the Venetians and the Turks. Nowadays, it is an ideal open air venue for theatre, music and dance shows. No less beautiful is the exquisite Palia Poli (Old City) at the foot of the Castle.