Including a Description of the Panama and Nicaragua Routes
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California illustrated; including a description of the Panama and Nicaragua routes. By J.M. Letts ON STONE BY J. CAMERON PANAMA, FROM THE BATTERY, Cerro Lancon in the background. CALIFORNIA ILLUSTRATED: INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF THE PANAMA AND NICARAGUA ROUTES. BY J. M. LETTS. With Forty-Eight Illustrations. FOURTH THOUSAND. NEW YORK: R. T. YOUNG, 140 FULTON-STREET. 1853. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852. BY J. M. LETTS, California illustrated; including a description of the Panama and Nicaragua routes. By J.M. Letts http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.077 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. Note to the Reader. I HAVE, in these pages, endeavored to convey a correct impression, I have stated such facts only as I knew to be facts, and interspersed them with incidents that fell under my own observation. A season's residence in the mineral regions enabled me to obtain a correct interior view of life in California. The illustrations are truthful, and can be relied upon as faithfully portraying the scenes they are designed to represent. They were drawn upon the spot, and in order to preserve characteristics, even the attitudes of the individuals represented are truthfully given. The first part of this volume is written in a concise manner, with a view to brevity, as the reader is presumed to be anxious to make the shortest possible passage to the Eldorada. THE AUTHOR. Contents. Page CHAPTER FIRST.—Sail from New York—Our Pilot leaves us—Land recedes from View —Sea-Sickness—A Whale—Enter the Gulf Stream—Encounter a Gale—Enter the Tropic of Cancer—“Land, ho!”—Caycos and Turk's Islands—St. Domingo—Cuba—Enter the Caribbean Sea—Sporting—Sunday—Standing in for the Port of Chagres—Beautiful Scene—Drop Anchor, 9 CHAPTER SECOND.—Natives and “Bungoes”—Crescent City arrives—We sail into the mouth of the River—Prepare for a Fight—Fashions and Fortifications—An honest Alcalde—Non- fulfillment of Contracts, 13 CHAPTER THIRD.—First Attempt at Boat building—Excitement on “‘Change”—A Launch and Clearance—The Crew—A Mutiny—Quelled—Poor Accommodations —A Night in Anger—An Anthem to the Sun—Nature in Full Dress, 16 CHAPTER FOURTH. —Breakfast—Primitive Mode of Life—Meet the Orus—Mutiny and Rain—A Step backward —Encampment—A fortified and frightened Individual—Sporting—Mosquitos, 20 CHAPTER FIFTH.—First Rapid—An Unfortunate Individual—A Step Backward—Several Individuals in a State of Excitement—Tin Pans not exactly the thing—A Breakfast Extinguished—Sporting— California illustrated; including a description of the Panama and Nicaragua routes. By J.M. Letts http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.077 Monkey Amusements—A Flash in the Pan—Two Feet in our Provision Basket—Poverty of the Inhabitants and their Dogs—Arrival at Gorgona, 23 CHAPTER SIXTH.—Customs and Dress of the Nobility—A Suspicious Individual—Journey to Panama—A Night Procession—A wealthy Lady in “Bloomer”—An Agreeable Night Surprise—“Hush” on Horseback—Captain Tyler shot— A Mountain Pass at Night—Thunder Storm in the Tropics, 27 CHAPTER SEVENTH.—Panama —Cathedral and Convents—Religious Ceremonies—Amalgamation—Fandango, 33 CHAPTER EIGHTH.—Bay of Panama—Islands—Soldiers—Arrival of $1,000,000 in Gold and Silver—A Conducta—“Bungoes” “up” for California—Wall Street Represented—Sail for San Francisco— Chimborazo—Cross the Equator—A Calm—A Death at Sea, 37 CHAPTER NINTH.—Stand in for San Francisco—Indications of Land—The Coast—Enter the “Golden Gate”—Inner Bay—San Francisco—Lumps of Gold—Notes of Enterprise—Surrounding Scene—Gambling, 44 CHAPTER TENTH.—The “Hounds”—Villainy—Indignation Meeting—Vigilance Committee, 51 CHAPTER ELEVENTH.—Start for the Mineral Regions—Banks of the Sacramento River—Shot at—Gold versus Mica—Sutterville—Primitive Mode of Life—Sacramento City—An Individual who had “seen the Elephant,” 56 CHAPTER TWELFTH.—Sutter's Fort—A Herd of Cattle—“Lassoing”— Rio de los Americanos—A Disappointed Hunter—A Californian Serenade—A Mule and his Rider—Parting Company—Thirst—Serenades supported by Direct Taxation—Sierra Nevada, 63 CHAPTER THIRTEENTH.—Venison—First View of the Gold Regions—Surrounding Scenery —“Mormon Bar”—A Pocket—My Machine in Motion—Certainty of Success—First Dinner —“Prospecting”—A Good “Lead”—Disappointed Miners—A New Companion—A Higher Point on the River—Volcanoes—Snowy Mountain—Auburn—Lonely Encampment, 70 CHAPTER FOURTEENTH.—A Sea Captain as Cook—A Herd of Deer—Return to Mormon Bar—Keeping House—Our Machine in Motion—$1,500 in One Hour—An Elopement—Wash Day—Sporting —Prospecting—Discovery of Gold—Excitement—Fatigue—The Cakes “hurried up”—Incentives to Exertion—Canalling a Bar, 80 CHAPTER FIFTEENTH.—Start for Sacramento City—The “Niagara Co.”—Frederick Jerome—A Love Chase—Heroine under a Blanket—Suspicious Boots— Part of a Lady's Hat found—A Ball—Arrival at Sacramento City—Poor Accommodations—Return to the Interior—A Chase—A New York Merchant—Beals' Bar—Embark in Trade—A Mountaineer —Indian Characteristics, 87 CHAPTER SIXTEENTH.—The Mormons—The attempted Murder of California illustrated; including a description of the Panama and Nicaragua routes. By J.M. Letts http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.077 Gov. Boggs—Canalling Mormon Bar—False Theories in reference to Gold Deposits—Influence of Amasa Lyman, “the Prophet”—Exciting Scene—Jim returns—A Monte Bank “Tapped”— Jim's Advent at Sacramento City, 95 CHAPTER SEVENTEENTH.—False Reports and their Influences—Daily Average—Abundance of Gold—Original Deposit—“Coyotaing”—Sailors— Their Success and Noble Characteristics—Theatrical Tendencies—Jack in the After-Piece—Miners on a “Spree”—The Wrong Tent, 101 CHAPTER EIGHTEENTH.—Arrivals—Preparation for the Rainy Season—New Discoveries—Coloma—Gamblers versus Bayonets—“Hangtown”—Public Executions—Fashionable Entertainments—Wild Cattle—Dangerous Sporting—Murdered Indians —The Wrongs they suffer, 107 CHAPTER NINETEENTH.—Canalling operations—Unsuccessful Experiments—Coffee-Mills and Gold Washers—Formation of Bars—Gold removed from the Mountains during the Rainy Season—Snow on the Mountains, and its Dissolution—Rise and Fall of the River—Stock Speculations—Quicksilver Machines—Separation of Gold and Quicksilver —Individual Enterprise—Incentives to Exertion—Expenses, 113 CHAPTER TWENTIETH. —Commotion in the Political Elements—California a State—Slavery Prohibited—Political Campaign, and the Rainy Season—Speech of a Would-be-Governor—Enthusiasm and Brandy— Election Districts—Ballot-Boxes and Umbrellas—Miners in a Transition State—Preparations for the Rainy Season—Primitive Habitations—Trade Improving—Advent of the Rainy Season—Its Terrific Effects—Rapid Rise of the River—Machines destroyed—Arrivals—My Store and Bed —A Business Suit—Distressing Groans—The Bottle a Consolation—Several Strange Specimens of Humanity cooking Breakfast—The Scurvy—A Death, 118 CHAPTER TWENTY-FIRST. —Dangerous Navigation—A Trip over the Falls—A Night from Home—Sailor Hospitality— Scarcity of Provisions—A Hazardous Alternative—A Wayward Boy—Preparations for leaving the Interior—Distribution of Effects—Our Traveling Suit—Start for San Francisco—Farewell—Three Individuals under a Full Head of Steam—Arrival at the “Half-Way Tent”—Poor Accommodations —A Morning Walk and Poor Breakfast—Wading Lagoons—Wild Geese—Arrival at the American River—Our Toilet, and entry into Sacramento City, 123 CHAPTER TWENTY-SECOND.—A Dry Suit—Restaurants—Waiters and Champagne—Two Individuals “Tight”—A $10 Dinner— Monte Banks and Mud—Gambling and its Results—Growth of Sacramento City—Unparalleled Prosperity—A Revulsion and its Cause—The Flood, 130 CHAPTER TWENTY-THIRD.—Sail California illustrated; including a description of the Panama and Nicaragua routes. By J.M. Letts http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.077 for San Francisco—A Fleet—Mud—Prosperity—Ships and Storehouses—Buoyant Seas—Shoals in Business—Revulsion and Fire—Their Consequences—Sail for Santa Barbara—The Town— Dexterous Feat by a Grizzly Bear—Fashions—Sail for St. Lucas—Porpoises and Sea Fowls— Their Sports—Approach the town—Peculiar Sky—Caverns in the Sea—Cactus—Beautiful Sea Shells—Sail for Acapulco—Magnificent Scenery—Volcanos and Cascades—Volcanos at Night —Eternal Snow, 134 CHAPTER TWENTY-FOURTH.—Acapulco—The Tree of Love—Bathing and Females—A Californian in a Tight Place—Earthquakes—Sail for Realejo—Volcano Viejo —Its Devastating Eruption—Realejo and Harbor—A Cart and its Passengers—A Wall-street Financier fleeced—Chinandega—Its beautiful Arbors—Bathing—Preparing Tortillos—Leon—Its magnificence and desolation—Don Pedro Vaca and Family, 142 CHAPTER TWENTY-FIFTH.— A Problem in Mathematics worked out with a Cane—Pueblo Nueva—Cultivating the Acquaintance of a Horse—Looking for the Rider—An “Old Salt” stuck in the Mud—Uncomfortable Night's Rest—Nagarotes—Lake Leon and the surrounding Volcanos—Matares—Delightful Country— Managua—Don Jose Maria Rivas—Nindaree—Ruins of a Volcano—A Long Individual in Spurs— A Dilemma—One of my Horse's Legs in motion—A Boy in a Musical Mood—Entry into Massaya —Bloomerism, 151 CHAPTER TWENTY-SIXTH.—Massaya—The Carnival—Female Labors —Gourds—Maidens consigned to a Volcano—A Donkey “ non est”—Ox versus Donkey—Same Medicine prescribed—Lake Nicaragua—Grenada—A “Priest” in a Convent—“Our” Horse—A Group of Islands—Cross the Lake—Mr. Derbyshire's Plantation—Breakfast—Bullocks stepping on Board—Sail for San Carlos—Magnificent Scene—A Hymn of Thanks—A Mountain City— Gold Mines—Arrival at San Carlos—Custom House Regulations repudiated, 157 CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVENTH.—Passage down the San Juan River—Castilian Rapids—The “Director”— Arrival at San Juan—Boarded by a Posse of Negroes—British Protectorate—Philanthropy of Great Britain—Her Magnanimous and Disinterested Conduct towards the Nations of the Earth— Nicaragua graciously remembered—A Hunt for a Sovereign—A Full-Grown King Discovered —His Diplomacy—Invincibility—Amusements and Coronation—His First Pair of Pantaloons— Hail “King of the Mosquito Coast”!!!—All hail, Jamaca I.!!!—“Hear! hear!!!” 163 CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHTH.—Sail for Home—Pass the “Golden Gate”—Sad Condition of the Passengers —Graves at the Base of the Snowy Mountains—Land Recedes—Luxuries on Board—A Death California illustrated; including a description of the Panama and Nicaragua routes.