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Tracking and Tweaking Your Extraction

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Tracking and Tweaking Your Extraction Tracking and tweaking your extraction Dr. Marco Wellinger Zurich University of Applied Sciences I love espresso and its technology Enjoying Preparing espresso: Coffee espresso machines and grinders research Source: Marco Wellinger Espresso technology is complex Standard parameters: Coffee freshness Particle size distribution Evenness of the puck and water flow Newer parameters: Temperature – PID control Pressure and flow rate – profiling Water composition – real-time monitoring Tracking your extraction: Quality indicators for your cup • Ever new technologies enable more possibilities to influence the extraction • Sensory evaluation is feasible but hard to conduct in an objective and reproducible manner • Chemical and physical markers offer the chance to characterize an extraction independent from personal preference What are the most important markers that characterize your extraction? We begin with TDS – what is it? • A measure of how much coffee is in your beverage • Actually dissolved solids – otherwise coffee particles in the beverage are included with their full weight • Weighing and evaporation: expensive and slow • Measurement by refractrometry: fast and precise TDS of water vs TDS of coffee • Same name very different principles and uses • TDS of water as used in the coffee community (or aquaculture) is based on electrical conductivity TDS of water vs TDS of coffee TDS of beverages TDS of water • Based on refractometry • Based on electrical conductivity • Range: 0.1- 20 % • Range: 0.0001-0.1 % (= 1-1000 ppm) • High precision method: • Rough estimate: < 5 % relative error typical error of 30% TS versus TDS • All solids present in a coffee beverage whether dissolved or suspended (as particles) contribute to “total solids” = TS • Only solids that actually have dissolved into the water contribute to ”total dissolved solids” = TDS • When comparing different extraction methods the content of suspended (non-dissolved) solids varies widely – for example espresso and french press have quite a lot of suspended solids TS versus TDS • A series of simple duplicate french press extraction: 50, 60 and 70 g/L Unfiltered method overestimates extracted solids content by 7% Chlorogenic acids and caffeine • Among the most abundant substances in coffee • Chlorgenic acids (CGA) are related to positive health effects from coffee • CGA is negatively correlated with roast degree: lights roasts contain more, dark ones less • Caffeine is almost constant across different roast levels (loss is similar to overall weight loss) Source: Samo Smrke Tracking your extraction Applying the lessons learnt on TDS and acidity to compare different extractions with each other or to study the evolution of your extraction over time 3 grinders 1 machine 300kg coffee Performance study on grinders from fully- automatic for home use – one from each Italy, Switzerland and Germany Commercial coffee blend typical for average swiss consumer: 60% Arabica 40% Robusta Extraction on the same commercial fully- automatic coffee through the ground coffee chute 3 grinders 1 machine 300 kg coffee Measure physical and chemical characteristics of the extractions over the course of grinding 100 kg on each grinder After 1 kg, 25 kg, 50 kg, 80 kg and 100 kg TDS plotted on the brewing control chart 108 extractions at two brew ratios: • Lungo at brew ratio 12: 1.5 – 2.4 % TDS • Espresso at brew ratio 4: 3.3 – 7 % TDS And again.. • Just kidding.. • .. Actually now it is acidity instead of TDS. • More precisely it is titrable acidity to pH 6.6 which correlates well with sensory acidity for simplicity sake we will call it “acidity” on all futher slides. • Correlation only holds point since at high extraction yield or uneven extractions it can also be overpowered by bitterness and astringency TDS predicts acidity precisely Acidity is directly proportional to TDS with a high accuracy over the whole range (since the line almost goes through 0/0) pH is a poor indicator for extraction Professional machine: Fully-auto vs Hybrid vs Semi-auto In a performance test three different machine types were tested. All three were adjusted to produce four different beverage to produce optimum results from a sensory perspective. All extractions lay within the SCA-optimum of 18- 22 % extraction yield. With the exception of one of the lungo coffees at 16.6 %. TDS predicted caffeine precisely even across two different roast levels TDS correlates with acidity within one roast level CGA correlates with TDS within one roast level What is espresso – different points of view What consumers expect and what the industry offers Different espresso receipe • Illy • Ground coffee: 6.5 g +/- 1.5 • Beverage volume: 20 mL +/- 5 •INEI • Ground coffee: 7 g ± 0,5 • Beverage volume: 25 ml ± 2,5 • Typical speciality coffee / WBC espresso • Ground coffee: 9 g ± 1 • Beverage weight: 18 g ± 3 • Beverage volume: 30 mL ± 3 Range of espresso brewing ratios Combining the brewing control chart and other chemical markers Brew ratios from espresso to filter Filter coffee: • Brew ratio ~ 15 • TDS ~ 1.2 – 1.4 % WBC Espresso: • Brew ratio ~ 2 • TDS ~ 8 – 12 % Tracking an extraction over time on the brewing chart Matt Perger introduced systematic tracking of your extraction in the brewing control chart on baristahustle.com Visualizing how TDS evolves against extraction yield is an intuitive way to compare any changes in the extraction conditions In a small series of extraction we explored how TDS and other chemical markers evolve thoughout the extraction An unexpected result from a fully-auto 18.7 % exctraction yield in a 8 s And even 14.8 % extraction yield after only 4s Range of paths on the brewing chart Depending on the flow rate and evenness different extraction paths can be achieved Experimental series with fully automatic machine • Single origin coffee form Brasil with a medium roast level (95 Colorette) • 20 s extraction time • Brew ratio 3 • Split into 8 fractions (4 x 2 s and 4 x 3 s) • TDS, acidity, caffeine and chlorogenic acids Evolution of a fully-auto extraction Extraction starts highly concentrated The first half of the beverage contains 2/3 of the dissolved solids Evolution of acidity Acidity starts out at a much higher rate initially and slows down in the last third Evolution of chlorogenic acid Chlorgenic acids extract at the same rate as the total dissolved solids overall Evolution of caffeine Caffeine shows a much slower increase initially and speeds up in the last part Putting it all together Marked differences of how the markers evolve over the extraction Evolution of the extraction over time Conclusion • TDS measured by refractometry reflects extraction levels very accurately for a broad range of brewing conditions and coffees • For 1 coffee at similar extraction levels all common markers correlate very precisely with one another - even across different beverages and machines • Using acidity one can relate the acidity potential of the bean, the buffering alkalinity of the water and the resulting acidity of the coffee beverage with one another • Our tongues work much rather like a titration machine than like a pH-meter • It appears that it could very well be sufficient to measure only once the caffeine, titr. acidity and CGA against TDS of one coffee and roast profile and subsequently estimate all other parameters by TDS alone very accurately • Seeing the dynamics from the last slides there is of course a limit to the predictive accuracy since the different markers do not evolve fully even or identical over the course of the extraction Outlook • Next topics of research: • Filter coffee extraction • Grinding • Extraction yield based on total extract present in the cup or total extract present in the cup plus the remaining grounds • Based on the cup: economical: how much coffee output per input • Based on everything: more related to physical characteristics of extraction and potentially better correlation of extraction yield to sensory Data source • All data has been gathered, interpreted and visualized by Marco Wellinger, ZHAW Coffee Excellence Center Prof Coffee. Dr. MBA Chahan Yeretzian Professor for Analytical Chemistry, Bioanalytical Chemistry and Diagnostics Head Coffee Excellence Centre Head Analytical Technologies Boards of Directors SCA, Chair of Research Advisory Council Board member and Secretary of ASIC Continuing Origin Transformation Extraction Aroma Education & Sustainability Dr. Sebastian Opitz Dr. Samo Smrke Dr. Marco Wellinger Dr. Anja Rahn MSc Sabine Stauffacher www.zhaw.ch/icbt/coffee Evaluation Forms Please Complete An Evaluation Form After This Lecture Coordinator: Room Host Please Download To Access Handouts + Further Information .
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