NORTH 141

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River Mandovi Baga

(cannabis or hashish) smoke at Chapora, the laid-back smoke (cannabis or hashish) at Chapora, the laid-back international international Mandrem charas Anjuna flea market (movement), to ‘take the air’ along the sedate seaside promenade. seaside promenade. to ‘take the air’ along the sedate (movement), ( p143 ) ( p173 ) Siolim mudança ( p158 ) Mandovi River Mandovi eateries pretty in hotel langute or Baga’s top-notch langute along the seldom-explored northernalong the seldom-explored banks of the ), a cool, calm yoga-infused gem of the p174 ( northern coast ( p168 ), a fun day out despite the tourist the tourist ), a fun day out despite p168 ( trappings

Spend a night in a history-heavy heritage Dine in candlelit opulence at one of Ca- forts, emotive churches and villages Explore to the sun at mellow Salute at Barter for a bargain

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS Today, the key to enjoying North Goa lies in knowing exactly what you’re after. If you’re If you’re Today, the key to enjoying North after. Goa lies in knowing exactly what you’re It was not, however, always this way. Until the 1960s Calangute, nowadays Goa’s most nowadays Until the 1960s Calangute, always this way. It was not, however,

of delights in store, whatever your holiday inclination. whatever of delights in store, morphing and mayhem of the coast. Choose carefully, then, and Northcarefully, morphing and mayhem of the coast. Choose Goa still has plenty and you’ll find enchanting, undiscovered villages, churches and temples alongside all the villages, churches and temples and you’ll find enchanting, undiscovered liveliest thing you’ll find is a high-energy head inland ashtanga yoga session. Meanwhile, liveliest Inner Peace. Similarly, if you’re here to live it up a little, don’t roll up at Mandrem, where the where it up a little, don’t roll up at Mandrem, to live here Similarly, if you’re Inner Peace. here for spiritually slanted tranquillity, don’t go to Baga on a Friday night, more Ibiza than a Friday night, more tranquillity, don’t go to Baga on for spiritually slanted here package-holiday hordes. power’; next came the all-night trance parties of the ’80s and ’90s, and, simultaneously, the Towards the end of the ’60s came the heady hippie days of naked revellers, drugs and ‘flower ’60s came the heady hippie days of nakedTowards the end of the revellers, bounded to the south by the Portuguese , and to the north by Terekhol Fort. by the Portuguesebounded to the south Fort and to the north Aguada, by Terekhol Aside from Calangute, the northerna simple string of fishing villages, from Calangute, strip remained coastal Aside for their annual atmospheric heritage homes. atmospheric heritage homes. raucous package in May hole of the Portuguese resort, who arrived the watering was elite, and the hideaway luxury boltholes interspersed neatly throughout, many in gorgeously throughout, many in gorgeously neatly boltholes interspersed and the hideaway luxury beach paradises of Aswem and Mandrem, the five-star havens at and Sinquerim, and Sinquerim, at Candolim the five-star havens and Mandrem, beach paradises of Aswem scene at Vagator, the thick scene at Vagator, Baga, the kooky hippie vibe of Arambol and Anjuna, the remnants of the trance-party of the vibe of Arambol and Anjuna, the remnants Baga, the kooky hippie most of what many folks come to Goa seeking: the relentless action of Calangute and and come to Goa seeking:most of what many folks action of Calangute the relentless Packaged neatly between the Terekhol and Mandovi Rivers, North Goa encompasses North Rivers, Mandovi and encompasses Goa the Terekhol neatly between Packaged North Goa North Goa NORTH GOA 142 0 10 km NORTH GOA 0 6 miles OT O GOA NORTH To (580km) 17

MAHARASHTRA

Terekhol Terekhol Anconem Fort River Naibaga

Pernem Train Station Alorna Querim Fort Beach Konkan

Arambol PERNEM River Beach Arambol Davanvado Parcem Dargalim Mandrem Mandrem Beach ChaporaRailway Aswem Beach Aswem Chopdem Colvale Thivim W ( Rd) e

Morjim Train Station Golauli s Siolim Beach Anjunem t

e See Along the Mandovi River Map (p144) BICHOLIM r Chapora n Corjuem Gontel Codal Vagator Moira Fort G Vagator Beach Mapusa Bicholim h Aldona Porlem a Anjuna t Anjuna Beach Mayem SATARI s Lake Arpora River Baga Pomburpa Shri Saptakoteshwara Sanquelim Temple Baga Beach 17 Torda Chorao Porvorim Island Naroa Onda Calangute Bondir Calangute Beach Mapusa Valpoi Candolim Island Britona Dr Salim Ali Mandovi Candolim Beach Betim Bird Sanctuary Nerul Verem River Sinquerim Beach Nanus Fort lonelyplanet.com Fort Aguada Reis Magos 4A Nerul (Coco) Beach Fort (Panjim) Karmali (Old Goa) Aguada Bay Train Station Cotorem A R A B I A N Miramar Beach Miramar

S E A Cabo Raj Bhavan 17 PONDA SANGUEM To Margao Bamboi ὄMormugao Bay (18km)