North Goa 141
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© Lonely Planet Publications 141 North Goa Packaged neatly between the Terekhol and Mandovi Rivers, North Goa encompasses most of what many folks come to Goa seeking: the relentless action of Calangute and Baga, the kooky hippie vibe of Arambol and Anjuna, the remnants of the trance-party scene at Vagator, the thick charas (cannabis or hashish) smoke at Chapora, the laid-back beach paradises of Aswem and Mandrem, the five-star havens at Candolim and Sinquerim, and the hideaway luxury boltholes interspersed neatly throughout, many in gorgeously atmospheric heritage homes. It was not, however, always this way. Until the 1960s Calangute, nowadays Goa’s most raucous package resort, was the watering hole of the Portuguese elite, who arrived in May for their annual mudança (movement), to ‘take the air’ along the sedate seaside promenade. Aside from Calangute, the northern coastal strip remained a simple string of fishing villages, bounded to the south by the Portuguese Fort Aguada, and to the north by Terekhol Fort. Towards the end of the ’60s came the heady hippie days of naked revellers, drugs and ‘flower NORTH GOA power’; next came the all-night trance parties of the ’80s and ’90s, and, simultaneously, the package-holiday hordes. Today, the key to enjoying North Goa lies in knowing exactly what you’re after. If you’re here for spiritually slanted tranquillity, don’t go to Baga on a Friday night, more Ibiza than Inner Peace. Similarly, if you’re here to live it up a little, don’t roll up at Mandrem, where the liveliest thing you’ll find is a high-energy ashtanga yoga session. Meanwhile, head inland and you’ll find enchanting, undiscovered villages, churches and temples alongside all the morphing and mayhem of the coast. Choose carefully, then, and North Goa still has plenty of delights in store, whatever your holiday inclination. HIGHLIGHTS Barter for a bargain at Anjuna flea market ( p168 ), a fun day out despite the tourist trappings Explore emotive forts, churches and villages along the seldom-explored northern banks of the Mandovi River ( p143 ) Mandrem Salute to the sun at mellow Mandrem Siolim Anjuna ( p174 ), a cool, calm yoga-infused gem of the Baga northern coast Calangute Dine in candlelit opulence at one of Ca- Mandovi langute or Baga’s top-notch international River eateries ( p158 ) Spend a night in a history-heavy heritage hotel in pretty Siolim ( p173 ) NORTH GOA 142 0 10 km NORTH GOA 0 6 miles NORTH GOA To Mumbai (580km) 17 MAHARASHTRA Terekhol Terekhol Anconem Fort River Naibaga Pernem Querim Pernem Train Station Alorna Querim Fort KARNATAKA Beach Konkan Arambol PERNEM River Beach Arambol Davanvado Parcem Dargalim Mandrem Mandrem Beach ChaporaRailway Aswem Beach Aswem Chopdem Colvale Thivim W (Mapusa Rd) e Morjim Train Station Golauli s Siolim Morjim Beach Anjunem t e See Along the Mandovi River Map (p144) Chapora Fort BICHOLIM r Chapora n BARDEZ Corjuem Gontel Codal Vagator Moira Fort G Vagator Beach Mapusa Bicholim h Aldona Porlem a Anjuna t Anjuna Beach Mayem SATARI s Lake Arpora River Baga Pomburpa Shri Saptakoteshwara Sanquelim Temple Baga Beach 17 Torda Chorao Porvorim Island Naroa Onda Calangute Bondir Calangute Beach Saligao Mapusa Divar Valpoi Candolim Island Britona Dr Salim Ali Mandovi Candolim Beach Betim Bird Sanctuary Nerul Verem River Sinquerim Beach Nanus Fort Old Goa lonelyplanet.com Fort Aguada Reis Magos Panaji 4A Nerul (Coco) Beach Fort (Panjim) Karmali (Old Goa) Aguada Bay Train Station Cotorem A R A B I A N Miramar Beach Miramar S E A Cabo Raj Bhavan 17 TISWADI PONDA SANGUEM To Margao Bamboi ὄMormugao Bay (18km).