Qīnghǎi (青海), Larger Tóngrén Than Any European Country, Occupies a Vast Swathe of the (Repkong)
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Q īnghǎi POPULATION: 5.4 MILLION Why Go? Xīníng . 864 Big, bold and beautifully barren, Qīnghǎi (青海), larger Tóngrén than any European country, occupies a vast swathe of the (Repkong) . 870 northeastern chunk of the Tibetan plateau. In fact, as far Guìdé . .873 as Tibetans are concerned, this isn’t China at all; it’s Amdo, one of old Tibet’s three traditional provinces, and much of Yùshù (Jyekundo) . .873 what you’ll experience here will seem very much Tibetan Golmud . .876 rather than Chinese; there are monasteries galore, yaks by the hundred and nomads camped out across high-altitude grasslands. Best Places to Eat Rough-and-ready Qīnghǎi is classic off -the-beaten-track territory, often with that last-frontier feel to it. Travelling » Black Tent (p867) around is both inconvenient and uncomfortable, and you » Y īpǐnguó Nóngzhuāng can go for days without meeting another tourist. But those (p873) wonderful moments of solitude, those middle-of-nowhere » Qing Xiang Yuan Farm- high-plateau vistas and the chance to discover some of the house (p873) more remote communities of China’s ethnic minorities make the long bus rides, the cold weather, and the often » Q īnghǎi Tǔ Huǒguō head-achingly high altitude well worth bearing. (p867) When to Go Best Places to Xīníng Drink °C/°F Te m p Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 12/300 » Rebkong Teahouse (p871) 30/86 » Greenhouse (p867) 20/68 10/50 8/200 » On the bank of the Yellow 0/32 -10/14 River (p872) 4/100 » Black Tent (p867) -20/-4 -30/-22 » S ūjī Nímǎ (p867) -40/-40 0 J FDNOSAJJMAM January & Febru- July–September September ary Tibetan New Grasslands at Safest and most Year (Losar), with their greenest; comfortable lots of pilgrims landscape dotted time for trekking and celebrations with nomad tents. around Mt Amnye at monasteries. Machen. Q Dél¨nghƒ K a i d 315 G„NSÙ ¥ a m n Bird Island l Hùzhù ú B a s i n TuŸsu¡ Q¸ngh†i Huángyuán n Lake Chák† Lake X¹NÍNG M Lèd¥ o u H‰im†hé n t Golmud Q¸ngh†i-Tibet Railway D†ot†nghé Píng'ƒn a i n s Kumbum Monastery 109 Gònghé (T†'›r Sì) Xúnhuà K¥nlúnshƒn Pass (4772m) Guìdé Mèngdá Nature True source Tóngrén B of the Reserve a Y Yellow Source of the ellow 109 y Huƒshíxiá Xiàdàw© T a River Yellow River a n (Níutóub‰i) Xu›shƒn n F‰nghu¡ Pass Mt Rabgya Hénán H M†duŸ R g a A Gompa r Zaling Amnye m ive g Machen n M†qìn r M Lake 214 M y e Angba u o o (Tawo) (Huáng u u M a Tsozhe l n t a n t c h a i n s a i e n Hé) Lakes Q¥málái Bayankala Pass n s M (4824m) o ZhìduŸ Miti u Q¸ngshu¨hé Jiangzhanmu-tso n t Ji©zhì a i n Mekong River Dárì Lakes s Ch‰ngduŸ W‰nquán (Láncƒng Jiƒng) Nganba-la Bƒnm† Tanggula Pass Xi‰w© (4700m) (5206m) Yùshù ZáduŸ (Jyekundo) TIBET SÌCHU„N Princess Longshi Wencheng Gompa Temple 0 200 km 0 120 miles Nangchen Q īnghǎi Highlights 1 Sample the culinary 3 Complete a high-altitude walled old town of Guìdé 6 Join the pilgrims, monks remote source of the Yellow delights of Xīníng (p864) trek on the slopes of eastern (p873) and yak-butter sculptures at River (p872) 2 Buy a Tibetan thangka Tibet’s most sacred mountain, 5 Sidestep the spider’s web Kumbum Monastery (p868) 8 Take one of the world’s straight from the artist’s easel Amnye Machen (p870) of prayer fl ags on a hike around 7 Venture across the great train rides, the Qīnghǎi– in Tóngrén (p870) 4 Stay in a farmers-style the hills beside Princess Qīnghǎi–Tibet plateau to the Tibet Railway (p868) to courtyard inside the Wencheng Temple (p874) Lhasa, at Xīníng or Golmud863 NGH NGH Ī Ī Q Q I I Ǎ Ǎ History a 7.1-magnitude earthquake. Thousands of 864 The northern Silk Road passed through people died, some say tens of thousands. For what is now Qīnghǎi province, and in 121 more information, see the boxed text (p941 ). BC the Han dynasty established a military base near modern Xīníng to counter Tibet- Language an raids on trading caravans. Most of the population in Qīnghǎi speaks During the Yarlung dynasty, a time of a northwestern Chinese dialect similar to great expansion of Tibetan power and infl u- that spoken in Gānsù. Most Tibetans here ence, Qīnghǎi was brought directly under speak the Amdo dialect. It’s possible to Lhasa’s control. After the collapse of the dy- travel almost everywhere using Mandarin. nasty in AD 842, local rulers fi lled the ensu- 8 Getting There & Around ing power vacuum, some nominally acting Most people arrive by train, usually into Xīníng, as vassals of Song-dynasty emperors. but after that train lines are limited so long- In the 13th century all of Qīnghǎi was distance buses are the order of the day. In incorporated into the Yuan empire under more remote areas you’ll often have no option Genghis Khan. During this time the Tǔ be- but to hire a private vehicle or hitch. Off -the- Q Ī gan to move into the area around Hùzhù, beaten-track overland routes include south into NGH followed a century or so later by the Salar Sìchuān, at Aba or Sěrshu (Shíqú), and north Muslims into Xúnhuà. into Gānsù or Xīnjiāng from Golmud. Routes Ǎ I After the fall of the Yuan dynasty, local southwest into Tibet are even more remote but Mongol rulers and the Dalai Lamas in Lhasa are often closed to foreigners. wrestled for power. The Qing emperors re- stored the region to full Chinese control, set- ting it up as a prefecture with more or less X īníng 西宁 the same boundaries as today. As in the past, % 0971 / POP 2.1 MILLION / ELEV 2275M however, they left administrative control in Perched on the eastern edge of the Tibetan the hands of local elites. plateau, this lively provincial capital makes Qīnghǎi offi cially became a province of a perfect springboard from which to dive China in 1929 during the republican era, into the surrounding sights and on to the though at the time it was under the de facto more remote regions of Qīnghǎi and be- control of the Muslim Ma clan. Qīnghǎi was yond. The food and lodging are good, the air again made a province in 1949 with the es- is fresh, and the populace is an interesting tablishment of the People’s Republic of China. mix of Muslim (Huí, Salar and Uighur), Ti- In the late 1950s an area near Qīnghǎi betan and Hàn Chinese. Lake (Qīnghǎi Hú) became the centre of China’s nuclear weapons research program. 1Sights In the next 40 years, at least 30 tests were Tibetan Culture Museum MUSEUM held at a secret base, the Qīnghǎi Mine. ( 藏文化博物馆; Zàng Wénhuà Bówùguǎn; admis- In April 2010, Yùshù, a Tibetan town in re- sion Y60; h9.30am-5pm) Previously known as mote southwest Qīnghǎi, was devastated by the Tibetan Medicine Museum, this unusu- al place still focuses on traditional Tibetan medicine and includes old medical instru- PRICE INDICATORS ments, bags, scrolls and, in the astronomy section, a very large sand mandala. The The following price indicators are highlight, though, is the incredible 618m- used in this chapter: long thangka scroll – the world’s longest – which charts pretty much the whole of Sleeping Tibetan history. Completed in 1997 it’s by $ less than Y150 no means an ancient relic, but it is unfea- $$ Y150 to Y300 sibly long. It took 400 artists four years to complete and is ingeniously displayed in a $$$ more than Y300 relatively small hall. Bus 34 (Y1) comes here Eating from West Gate. Bus 1 also goes close. A taxi’s about Y15 from the centre. $ less than Y30 Běichán Sì TEMPLE $$ Y30 to Y50 F (北禅寺; h8am-4pm) The main tem- $$$ more than Y50 ple at the foot of this barren hillside is noth- ing special but halfway up the steep climb multi fl oor layout includes cafe/bar, wide- to the top you pass cave temples and shrines screen TVs, laundry, kitchen and a small 865 that are thought to be 1700 years old. A pa- terrace that you can sleep out on in sum- goda, and great views of the city await you mer (Y10). Rooms are clean, bright and at the top. Turn left after you pass under the spacious, although singles are tiny. Staff railway line and follow the road round to members speak good English and the the temple entrance, or take a Y6 cab. travel agency Tibetan Connections is two fl oors up. One black mark: the showers are Qīnghǎi Provincial Museum MUSEUM either cold, or a trickle. F( 青海省博物馆; Qīnghǎi Shěng Bówùguǎn; Xīnníng Sq, 58 Xiguan Dajie; 新宁广场 Chéng Lín Hotel HOTEL $$ 西关大街58号; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) Scaled ( 成林大厦; Chénglín Dàshà; %491 1199; Dong down in recent years, but still has some Dajie; 东大街; tw/d Y260/280; a) Spacious, nice pieces recovered from excavations in well turned out rooms with ensuite shower Qīnghǎi. The Tibetan carpet exhibition is come with dark-wood furniture, TV and worth seeing. Bus 1 goes here, or take bus kettle and are great value after discounts. 22 from Dongguan Dajie. Twins were going for Y133 when we were Q SLEEPING Ī there.