VOL. XL. No. 1 Price 25 Cents July, 1930

-- W - - `r 7 FMrri111 i — ' '-•Tht - FallaireiltifrdYaXiirVellYW - /M I 1 3 ' 0.4r. ffito.parttir maga3tur .,. • CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD • r•-- Volume XL Number 1 1_, CONTENTS JULY, 1930 i ■ "Bully" Hayes - - - 3 i . E By Gordon Green IX F1 The Wonderful Wanganui River 9 .1I! By George Porter E Cigarettes in China - - 15 g Es 13 The First Lady of Hawaii Tells of Official Life - 19 ei By Lorraine Kuck • it Western Australia's First Century 95 IA By Hon. J. W. Kirwan, M. L. C. el

V IA • Rock Tells Story - 31 By Phil R. Brogan i • ---41 Up in Alaska - - - - - 35 • By Robert Forthingham • ■p c • ■1 America's Future as Viewed from Japan - 47 ! • By Kiichi Kanzaki • •-, - - 53 • In Memory of Sun Yat-Sen . By George E. Sokolsky (Pan-Pacific Club, Shanghai) • R • Canada's Mission in Japan - 59 By Herbert M. Marler • (Pan-Pacific Club, Osaka) i'. i' The Beauty of Mayon 67 By Robert Singg ! 4 .1 The Island of Guam and Its People's Tragic History - 73 a By H. G. Hornbostel •IE F. g Bulletin of the Pan-Pacific Union, New Series No. 125 •

011e filtb-Varifir J' agazitw .. T. H 4,1 ■• Published monthly by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Alexander Young Hotel Building. Honolulu, I Yearly subscription in the United States and possessions, $3.00 in advance. Canada and Single Copies, 25c. tol t • Mexico, $3.23. For all foreign countries, $3.50. I Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. • 0 Permission is given to reprint any article from the Mid-Pacific Magazine. • it n • xity 11t ax,._pmegivomp • • • inkmontmvsstmnt,mtkvMmallor orA Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. THE MID-PACIFIC

one from ives t a n he t knew He

THE MID-PACIFIC

• • • •

ft "Bully" Hayes

By GORDON GREEN Staff, Rabaul Times

These tales were told to me by old mate was Harry Skillins, whose half- Sam Hartmann of Truk, a half-caste caste son, Fred, is now living at Kusai, German and Fijian, who was a friend of and the second mate's name was Bill the late lamented "Bully" Hayes, and Axe." whose father was one of those traders I might here mention that Skillins from whom Hayes was accustomed to afterwards became mate of the Morning draw his profits. Star mission schooner. "I first met Bully Hayes," he said, "at The usual method employed by Kusai, in the Marshalls, in 1878, when Hayes in transacting his business was I was but a lad. Bully, who came of an that of enticing the European or native aristocratic English family, was a big traders on board, getting them drunk man, well over six feet in height, with a and stealing their oil. long, flowing beard, flaming hair and a The usual run of the Leonora was tremendous fog-horn of a voice. His Sydney, Gilberts, Marshalls, Carolines, entire clothing might have been bor- Ladrones and Hong Kong, and she was rowed from Kipling's `Gungha Din.' engaged in the business of buying coco- "At the time I came in contact with nut oil and selling trade goods. him he was in command of the Leonora, It would not seem possible that this known by the kanakas as Langa Langa, performance could have been repeated a brigantine of about 40 tons. Besides twice in the same district, but the buc- himself, his mate and two supercargoes caneer's plausibility and cunning en- (one of whom afterwards had a book abled him to re-approach a trader and, on his experiences published) were Eng- by paying handsomely the second time, lish; the second mate was a Fijian half- re-establish good relations. caste and the crew was then composed In any case, fear always preceded him of Gilbert and Nauru Islanders. The in his travels, enabling him to gain 4 THE MID-PACIFIC

From the Solomons and Neat• Guinea on the north, to Samoa and Tahiti to the south, Bully Hayes roved and ,was feared by v:hites, Polynesians and Micronesians alike. THE MID- PACIFIC 5 practically a monopoly in the areas he Kusai, and was unfortunate enough to frequented, and to ride rough-shod over be wrecked on the south side of the those with whom he had business deal- isi-ind. He built good houses of bread- ings. fruit trees, thatched with pandanus for His gig's crew consisted of twelve his officers and crew, and a dwelling for young girls amongst whom he distribu- himself of timbers taken from the ill- ted his favours impartially. fated Leonora. Whatever his faults, Hayes' person- Here he lived in royal state, on the ality commanded considerable respect best of terms with the natives, and his from the natives, and he was often called own obedient, well-managed little com- upon by the natives themselves to re- munity, whilst waiting for some ship to store law and order and to settle inter- come along and take him off. island disputes. One day, after he had been there The following story illustrates the about six months, three men-o'-war ar- decisive manner in which he adminis- rived in search of him ; one English, one tered his "justice," and the thoroughness German, and one American. The Eng- with which he carried out an agreement lish captain, on seeing Hayes, told him with the native chiefs who engaged him. that he was under arrest and would be He went to the island of Lossup in taken aboard the warship. Hayes went the Carolines fishing for beche-de-mer, on board with him and after a couple of taking with him on this trip 40 Yap hours, when night was beginning to ap- natives as a crew. proach, he asked the captain if he could On arriving at Lossup the chief asked go ashore to adjust what business mat- him to help them to fight the natives ters he could amongst his own people of an island named Namuk, situated and also to get his gear, promising to about eight miles away, in return for return the following morning. The cap- which the Lossup Islanders would assist tain acceded to his request, imagining him in his beche-de-mer fishing, and that escape was impossible, but when would also give him all the single girls Hayes reached the shore, with charac- of the island as payment for himself and teristic speed and daring, he provisioned his crew. the gig, put his compass and sextant on Hayes agreed to this, so he armed all board and, taking Skillins, the mate, and his Yap boys and sent them along to one of the supercargoes with him, clear- Namuk with instructions to shoot every ed out, eventually reaching 'Frisco. human being on the island, trusting to The other European and Bill Axe es- overcome their superior numbers and caped into the bush, where they man- native weapons with his modern arms aged to evade detection until the war- and equipment. ships had gone. The pirate chief's instructions were The men-o'-war remained in the vicin- carried out almost to the letter, the only ity for two weeks, scouring the neigh- survivors among the unfortunate Namuk borhood in a futile endeavor to trace the people being some few strong swimmers fugitives. who swam well out to sea and remained Three months later Hayes returned there until the raiders had left. to Kusai. When the writer himself visited Na- To all questions as to how the bucca- muk, bullet marks on some of the old neer reached 'Frisco, whether the jour- coconut palms were pointed out to him ney was completed in the cutter or as being vivid reminders of the mas- whether he was picked up, Hayes re- sacre. fused to answer, with the result that the facts about this remarkable journey re- Hayes shortly afterwards sailed for main a mystery to this day. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC

At times Bully Hayes, if it paid, could play the part of an honest supercargo.

A British schooner put into Kusai two brigantine with the proceeds. This was months after Hayes' return there, and in 1880. he and his companions took passage on With this boat he returned again to her to Guam. the islands, where his operations proved Whilst at Guam an American bucca- so profitable that he went back to Hong neer named O'Toole put in there for a Kong and paid the trusting merchants carousal, and whilst O'Toole's orgy was for the rice. at its height, Bully commandeered his schooner and set sail for Hong Kong. One of the first trips Bully made in Once again he was wrecked, this time his new brigantine was from Hong on one of the islands near his destina- Kong to Sydney, with a shipload of Chinese. tion, but he persuaded some Chinese to take him to Hong Kong in their junks He had been commissioned by a num- ber of Chinese in Hong Kong to smug- and there he once more set about re- gle them into Sydney, for which pro- trieving his fortunes. posed service he was handsomely paid. Some of the leading Chinese mer- How this task of surreptitiously land- chants of the city were interviewed by ing these unwanted immigrants, un- him, with the result that he purchased known to the port authorities, was to be from them on credit large quantities of accomplished, was not at all clear to rice for his (mythical) plantations in the him ; but the journey down gave him South Sea Islands. This rice he shipped ample time to consider the problem and to Shanghai and sold, buying another exercise his native wit and ingenuity. THE MID-PACIFIC 7

One day, when only about four days he dismissed from his ship by the own- from his destination, he was thought- ers, but his lifelong savings, amounting fully pacing up and down- the deck to i3000, went to pay the heavy fine in- when the look-out cried : "Sail ho !" flicted on him. This left him in such "Where away ?" spoke Hayes, as he dire distress that he was obliged to ac- rushed to the poop. cept casual labor on the wharves. "On the starboard bow," replied the At this stage, Fate appeared to take look-out ; whereupon was born the nuc- his departure, and the Goddess of For- leus of a brilliant stratagem, which tune smiled once again on the hitherto Hayes immediately decided to put into luckless skipper, for when he had fin- operation. ished speaking, Hayes went over to him He ordered the mate to have the sea- and said, "I am the man who put the cock opened, and at the same time hoist- Chinese on board your ship—here is the ed the flag of distress. The steamer, money you lost with interest." seeing the distress signal, immediately hastened to Hayes' assistance. The cap- Hayes had been sailing the South Seas tain asked what the trouble was, and for about four years in his Hong Kong offered to lend any aid in his power. brigantine when he decided to go to Sa- Hayes replied : "My boat is sinking, moa on a visit to his European wife. and I shall deem it a favor if you will He was, however, wrecked on the Sa- take my Chinese passengers on to Syd- moan coast, but eventually, after many ney, as I am afraid they will drown if hardships, arrived at his wife's home in left with me." Apia, where, like Ulysses of old, he The steamer captain acquiesced to this had a brief but happy stay before re- proposal, but asked Hayes what he in- turning to his life of adventure on the tended doing. sea. Hayes said : "With the ship relieved Two months later we find him in of so much burden, I believe I will he 'Frisco, again like Ulysses, basking in able to reach the nearest port, from the smiles of a modern Circe, whom he where I will communicate with you im- ultimately kidnapped, at the same time mediately on my arrival." stealing a small ketch of 10 tons bur- The transfer was then made, after then, named, strangely enough, The which Hayes caused the sea-cocks to be Lotus. closed ; but the brigantine remained He, with his crew, consisting of where she was until the steamer was al- Brown, the mate, and Peter the cook, not most out of sight. Then the pumps were forgetting Circe, cleared the Golden manned, and with a wave of his hand Gate, bound for his happy hunting the buccaneer waived all responsibility ground of Jaluit, in the Marshall Islands. for his erstwhile Celestial friends and His arrival at Jaluit, after an unevent- sailed away into the unknown. ful voyage, created quite a sensation, on Like many good stories, this true, but account not only of the smallness of the stirring tale is not without its sequel. craft, but because of his unprecedented Some months afterwards, Hayes, action of carrying a white woman and whilst imbibing in a Sussex Street bar, crew. overheard a ragged-looking individual Finding the quiet life of Jaluit not to bemoaning his fate of having been way- his liking, he remained but a couple of laid on the high seas by a huge, red- weeks and then decided to seek further bearded, plausible rogue who persuaded afield for that excitement and adventure him to be the innocent conveyor of his which meant more him than meat and yellow cargo to Sydney, which proved drink. He then hied him to Namerick so disastrous for him that, not only was Island, some forty miles distant, where, 8 THE MID-PACIFIC with his customary methods of quick in fear of his life, thought that Hayes dealing, he soon had his boat loaded had gone for his revolver so, taking the with produce, etc., and set out for his tiller froth the rudder, awaited his return to Jaluit. return. On this trip, during the cook's turn As the pirate chief was coming up at the tiller, Hayes became incensed at again from his cabin the cook struck the boat's erratic course and, rushing him over the head and killed him. up from his cabin, threatened in an Thus ended the remarkable career of angry voice to shoot the cook if the an ex-English gentleman, cruel and steering didn't improve and if the boat courageous, unscrupulous and generous, was not kept to her proper course. one of the most fascinating personali- Circe called out to Bully and persuaded ties in the ever romantic history of the him to return to the cabin, but the cook, South Seas.

Fleets of canoes met Bully Hayes, for lie had his generous and lavish streaks. THE MID-PACIFIC 9

The Wonderful • Wanganui River

By GEORGE PORTER

The North Island of New Zealand is trip tourists at Houseboat and found adorned by two splendid rivers—the that although by omitting the first Waikato, flowing north, and the Wan- stretch we had missed some pleasant ganui flowing south. The Waikato is scenery, the best was still to come. It the longest river in the island and with was dark and as we slowly descended its rapids, waterfalls and picturesque the zig-zag path which led down to the banks is famous for its beauty. But the gloomy backwater where the Houseboat Wanganui by means of specially built was moored we wondered what in the boats serves as a romantic route for the way of comfort it would afford. To our tourist on his way from the famous hot delight we found it a well equipped and spring district to Wellington, and this efficiently managed floating hotel. Mr. is what led me to make the voyage last Polling-ton, the manager, met us on the March in order to catch the steamer gangway and showing us over the ca- "Rotura" for England at that port. bins, saloons and dining room, all lit by Three days are generally taken over electric light, made us speedily at home. the 159 mile voyage. The boats always The Houseboat sometimes changes its of make an early start. The first day's moorings according to the variation run of 40 miles is from Taumarunui to depth of water at different seasons. the Houseboat, where passengers, ar- Next morning we made an early start riving in time for lunch, spend the after- in the little "Waiora," about 70 feet noon and night. The second day's run long, oil driven and drawing about 18 of 65 miles is from Houseboat to Pipi- inches of water. She was small, but riki where the afternoon and night are larger than the boat used on the first again spent. The third day's trip, 45 day. Her crew consisted of one white miles, brings them to Wanganui where and four stalwart Maoris with curly train or motor cars are available for black hair, and after a turn or two of the Wellington. screw, and a little pole work, we came I, with two others, joined the whole- out of the backwater and successfully 10 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Wanganui River of New Zealand, the most beautiful stretch of river in the world, was once the haunt of the Maori and his dugout canoe. Today it is the tourist steamer that plies the stream. THE MID-PACIFIC 11 negotiated our first mild rapid. waterfalls among the ferns, but some- The scenery soon began to unfold it- times like the Mangonui-o-Te-Ao, they self. The tourist as a rule enjoys wood- have cut deep gorges of their own and land scenery from a height, seeing it enter the main river on the same level. rolling away in the distance, but here If we became weary of admiring the we seemed very much at the bottom of beauties of the fresh-green vegetation things. On either hand the banks rose there was always the curious navigation almost sheer to the height of two to three to watch. The channel in a rapid had hundred feet, every inch being clothed to be judged to a nicety. Sometimes the in numberless varieties of native trees, engine was shut off and the boat cun- shrubs, and plants. ningly allowed to drift into the desired position. None of the rapids was vio- Tree ferns, sometimes singly, some- lent, but in some cases to a stranger, it times in groups, lent their grace to this looked quite impossible for a boat of tangle of verdure; above was a pathway our size to get through such rippling of blue sky. The voyage abounds in shallows ; with an occasional slight surprises ; at one point our view down crunch we always came out triumphant. the river was blocked by a wall of for- The "Waiora," besides carrying tour- est perhaps two hundred feet high, while ists, was also a mail and local passenger above and behind that, at some distance boat. At one point one of the Maori back, rose another tree-clad rampart of crew made a magnificent bound to shore lovely green—a most magnificent piece and back to retrieve a mail bag which of vertical forest scenery. was reposing in loneliness on a rock. The river has a drop of 600 feet be- At another a white settler came down a tween Taumarunui and Wanganui, and slippery path and jumped on board. as the rock of its bed is friable, it has We made fast eventually at Pipiriki cut this remarkable gorge for itself. But this simple explanation does not appeal in time for lunch at the spacious hotel there and afterwards went to inspect the to the Maoris. Before the Maori came to the shores Maori pah in the immediate neighbour- hood. What we expected to find there of New Zealand the gods held posses- I do not know, but what we did see was sion of the land. Three of these mighty a mixed-doubles game of tennis on a beings, Rua-pehu, Tonga-riro and Tara- modern hard court with play equal to naki, stood in a group in the form of good club in England. All the players mountains for untold centuries and had were Maoris. A scorer on the usual lad- lived together with their families in firm der controlled the game. This fine sport- friendship. But one day Tara-naki at- ing race has taken to English games tempted to carry off Pihanga, the wife of Tonga-riro. In the battle of the gods with great enthusiasm. that ensued Tara-naki was worsted and Next day we embarked at the fashion- fled down to Wanga-nui. His manner able hour of 5 :45 a.m. on a larger vessel of flight must have been peculiar be- for the final stage of our voyage. The cause behind him he drew the deep gorge launch was large enough to admit our now occupied by the river. party of about 20 to breakfast in the Photographs depict a stretch where saloon. the river apparently disappears, and the Again we had a feast of trees, ferns, way is blocked by a wooded precipice beetling cliffs, waterfalls and lovely about 500 feet high. This view is the reaches of river. I had the pleasure of most famous and most photographed, sitting next the settler who had joined but we saw several of these "drop us, a Mr. Stafford, and he pointed out scenes" of almost equal beauty. Tribu- numerous holes in the belt of rock which taries come in in the shape of fairy-like ran at the foot of the lofty banks. These 12 THE MID-PACIFIC

The beauty of the Wanganui changes with every bend of the stream.

were pole holes, worn several inches We passed several canoes dug out of deep by generations of Maoris poling tree trunks and my neighbour told me their canoes up stream. And by these that he had seen two of these fitted with pole holes hangs a tale, which shows motor engines—a strange combination that the practice of leg-pulling is not a of ancient and modern. monopoly of the white race. Presently we passed the historical It was the time of the New Zealand Motua, a long narrow island of about 10 gold fever, about 1861, and also, when acres, once the scene of a notable battle. owing to missionary influence the Maori I was never tired of hearing tales of Ma- tribes were beginning to visit one anoth- ori chivalry in warfare. They had a high er in a friendly manner. Heretofore the standard of honour, and regarded fight- visits of tribes to each other had been ing as a game, subject to its special otherwise than friendly. A party of rules. young men from the Waikato came In one instance a chief defeated an- down the Wanganui ; there is none of other, but used firearms. In a subse- this kind of navigation on their river, so quent palaver it was decided that this they naturally enquired from the Wan- ganuis what had caused these conspicu- had been unfair and prisoners and lands ous holes. "Those holes," gravely re- taken were returned. plied the Wanganuis, "have been made Before an impending fight with the by the Pakehas, digging for gold." "Ka- English the Maoris heard that their op- nui to mamahi o nga Pakeha" (Great is ponents were short of food. They im- the industry of the white man) replied mediately sent them a substantial sup- the visitors with solemn approval. ply, with a message that a man could THE MID-PACIFIC 13

The native canoe is still to be seen on the reaches of the Wanganui. not possibly fight well on an empty 14th May, 1864, in defence of Law and stomach. Order against Fanaticism and Bar- In the case of the combat on the isl- barism." It is not among these wild scenes of and we were passing, in 1864 the Hau- guerilla warfare that one would look for haus were threatening the white settlers an illustration of the advantages of our of Wanganui and some friendly natives classical education. During hostilities arranged to bar their way. Bands were in the neighbourhood of Pipiriki an picked by each side and sent to fight on English detachment was cut off from its the island, the non-combatants looking base lower down the river and ran on from the banks. A peculiar arrange- short of ammunition. To cork up mes- ment was entered into in the case of one sages in bottles and entrust them to the detachment of warriors. They agreed river, was the ingenious idea which oc- to be onlookers, but under the condi- curred to the officer in command, a Ma- tion that if a bullet fell among them jor Brassey. In case the enemy might they would at once join in the fray find the floating bottles and understand against the side from whom it came. the message, he penned it in his best Trade guns, spears and tomahawks were Latin, more practical than classical. the arms used. At first the Hauhaus, fanatical and crazy for a fight, carried "Omnes sent recti, mitte res Belli all before them, drove the friendlies to statim." the extremity of the island, and all (All well, send ammunition at once.) seemed lost. But the friendlies had The river proved a trustworthy despatch picked up the rudiments of European bearer, the Latin intelligible and a relief discipline. Seizing a dead man's spear, party got through. their chief, Haimona Hiroti, despatched We are now approaching the thriving one enemy, slew another with a toma- port and town of Wanganui, with its hawk, and although hit himself with population of 22,000, and the banks of bullets in knee and arm, shot a third. In- our river gradually become tamer and spired by the gallantry of their chief his more settled. The stream broadens out men formed up, swept up the island, the and the settlements along it now having Hauhaus fled, leaving fifty dead on the other means of communication, our field, and the settlers of Wanganui were launch ceases to make calls and steams, saved. In that town there is to be seen or rather motors merrily along at about a life-size statue of "Grief" bearing the ten miles an hour. inscription : "To the memory of those To catch my train for Wellington I brave men who fell at Moutoa on the found it wise to jump off at Aramho in 14 THE MID -PACIFIC the suburbs of Wanganui. As the No visitor to this part of the world launch steamed away I managed to pho- should miss this romantic river voyage. tograph her. The scenery for the greater part is wild She plies between Wanganui and Pipi- and natural with few traces of the hand riki and is the largest size used in the of man. It provides a pleasant change trip. On board are English and Aus- from inspecting the mud volcanoes, tralian tourists who in a few minutes steaming cliffs, and other wonders of will reach the terminus, sever their the thermal region. It makes a fitting agreeable temporary friendships and go ending to a tour in the beautiful North different ways. Island of New Zealand.

Not even the Rhine in Germany can compare zcith the Wanganui River for grandeur and beauty of scenery. THE MID-PACIFIC 15

One of the many "cigarette" sign boards in China.

Cigarettes in China

Several methods of selling cigarettes ness. In Shanghai a sales headquarters are practiced by the tobacco companies is maintained in Ningpo Road. This is in China, varying in different cities. the point to which dealers in the Shang- These generally follow older sales prac- hai district come when they need sup- tices in vogue in these places, the idea plies. Salesmen serving the area also being to carry on methods of distribu- make it their headquarters. tion likely to meet with the least sales In Peking a number of dealers have resistance. In some places the name of formed a company which distributes to the company is not used ; for instance, small dealers who in turn supply, the in Manchuria much of the British-Amer- actual retailers. In Tientsin the British- ican Tobacco Company's selling is done American Tobacco Company has two under the name of L. Lopato, which was distributors who supply the small deal- a concern taken over some years ago ers. They sell to the retailers. In by the B.-A. T. Hongkong, Canton, Hankow and in The British-American Tobacco Com- nearly all other large centers except pany, which is the largest organization Shanghai, distribution is in the hands of handling cigarettes in China, has the a small number of jobbers who have most systematized sales organization long been in the business and whom the operating in the country. This consists company has found it advisable to work mainly of foreign inspectors who travel through. There is a tacit agreement in the interior to inspect and suggest that goods shall be sold only to these means of furthering the company's busi- old-established and substantial jobbers. 16 THE MID-PACIFIC

Nearly every Chinaman wishes to smoke. The desire of the foreign tobacconist is to persuade him to give up his long-stemmed pipe with its tiny bowl, for the Anglo-Saxon cigarette. THE MID-PACIFIC 17

Nanyang Brothers, a Chinese com- Competition in the cigarette market in pany. is probably second in the volume China is keener probably than in any of business done in China. In general other trade. This is clue partly to the ac- it follows methods of distribution simi- tivities of two large and highly organ- lar to those of the B.A. T. Nanyang ized foreign companies—the British- Brothers maintains a number of branch American Tobacco Company and the offices throughout China, as does the Liggett & Myers Tobacco Company— British-American Tobacco Company and the large Chinese concern, Nanyang and Liggett & Myers, and at each of Brothers. These use very progressive these branch offices there are inspectors methods of sales promotion. The Ruby who organize the selling. Nanyang Queen brand, mentioned above as the Brothers does not have any foreigners largest sold brand in China, is a cigar- on its staff. ette of mild Virginia tobacco and sells A feature of the British-American To- in Shanghai at 9 coppers for a package bacco Company's plan of distribution is of 10. This is approximately equivalent a subsidiary concern, the Wing Tai Vo to 2.5 cents, American currency. The Company, which was organized to its Ruby Queen is made in America, and present status four or five years ago to imported to China packed ready for dis- handle the sole distribution of certain tribution. This company'as well as oth- brands. In the time since the Wing Tai ers have even cheaper grades. A brand Vo Company has been organized, or manufactured by a Japanese company rather reorganized from an older Chi- sells at 3 coppers for 10, and there are aese concern, it has put out the Ruby others on the market selling for a simi- Queen brand, the largest sold cigarette lar, or slightly higher amount. in China. This cigarette is distributed Considerable quantities of tobacco leaf solely by the Wing Tai Vo Company. have long been grown in China, as the In general the same plans of selling Chinese water pipe has been used for are practiced by the British-American generations. The British-American To- Tobacco Company throughout the inte- bacco Company for several years and rior as in Shanghai. The small retailer Nanyang Brothers recently have been with one or two shops either pays cash assisting the farmers in several districts, or secures goods on consignment of especially in Shantung province and in from 5 to 30 days. In case consignments the Yangtze Valley, to grow a better are desired, a bond is arranged with the leaf. The B.-A. T. has brought from company direct and not with a compra- America several experts in tobacco dore. (Incidentally, it may be stated growing, and these are now working in that the British-American Tobacco the tobacco-raising districts of the coun- Company does not have any compra- try in propagating improved leaf. A dores, as the term is generally under- booklet issued some time ago by Nan- stood.) yang Brothers describing methods of In Shanghai most of the cigarettes, culture and including a number of illus- especially of the cheaper and most large- trations has been widely distributed to ly sold brands, are distributed through farmers in tobacco districts. (For de- small dealers who take small amounts at tails of a small section of the work done a time directly from the company. As in Shantung by the British-American there is a small discount for cash, most T o b a cc o Company, see Bulletin of the sales are cash transactions. Nan- No. 184.) yang Brothers follows the Chinese cus- A taste has been developed in China tom of giving reliable dealers credit up for the mild Virginia cigarette and an to four months, payable on Chinese fes- attempt to promote the sale among the tival days. Chinese of any other blend is not likely 18 THE MID-PACIFIC to meet with any great success, at least ly pushed in China only in the last few not without considerable advertising. years. About 25 years ago the B.-A. T. Cigarettes made of black tobacco are on established its organization in China, the market, especially in the very cheap- buying out a small agency held by an est brands, but they are not very suc- individual in Shanghai. The company cessful. In Shanghai, Tientsin and still maintains under the name of Mus- some of the other larger cities, cigarettes tard & Company the business of the made by the Alhambra and La Insular agency which it then purchased. Prac- companies in Manila are on sale, but the tically all development of cigarette de- demand for them is probably smaller mand in China has been created since than for any other variety. The old- that time. It is thus natural that the fashioned uncut cigarette is unknown education of the consuming public except in the Manila varieties. should be most rapid in the cities and Cigarettes are widely advertised districts coming most in contact with throughout China ; no other line is so ex- foreign taste. This has been in the tensively advertised, in fact. The Brit- Yangtze Valley, especially in the cities, ish-American Tobacco Company does and in Kwangtung, Fukien, Shantung, the most extensive advertising of any Chihli and the Manchurian province. company, either foreign or Chinese, in Plants erected by the British-Ameri- the country. It is not possible to say can Tobacco Company at Shanghai, how much the B.-A. T. spends annually Hankow, Mukden and elsewhere con- on this item, but a report recently issued tain the latest models of machinery for by the Nanyang Brothers Company manufacturing cut cigarettes. The Jap- shows that during the twelve months anese companies have installed Ameri- ending October 31, 1923, that company can and Japanese machinery, and the spent Mex. $666,162.90 for advertising smaller Chinese companies are using expenses, and the cost to the B.-A. T. machinery made in Japan. Nanyang must be many times that amount. Brothers has a shop manufacturing ma- The sale of cigarettes has been active- chinery after foreign patterns.

One may read of these cigarettes both in Chinese and in English. THE MID-PACIFIC 19

The main reception rooms of Washington Place after they had been redecorated by Mrs. Farrington.

• First Lady of Hawaii Tells of Official Life The years in historic Washington Place from 1922 to 1929 are described by Mrs. Wallace R. Farrington, wife of the former Governor. By LORAINE KUCK

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Stately and hospitable Washington tory, since Washington Palace was once Place, official residence of Hawaii's Gov- the residence of a princess and a queen, ernor, set back among its trees and gar- and became her home when she retired dens, merits for more reasons than one from her official palace. the description of "Little White House," The Governor's wife, as first lady of which is sometimes applied to it. the territory, holds a position remark- It is safe to say that there is no other ably similar to that of the mistress of the residence under the Stars and Stripes White House. She it is who unobtru- which approaches quite so closely in its sively manages the entertainments, sees use and colorful functions, the home of to it that official functions run off smooth- the nation's president. And even the ly, lends her presence and name to bene- White House has not so romantic a his- fit enterprises of all sorts, and is ever the 20 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Chinese furniture shown above was part of the furnishings during Queen Liliuokalani's residence. THE MID-PACIFIC 21 gracious hostess and feminine leader of rence Judd became governor and Mrs. the Islands. Judd the lady of Washington Place. For the last eight years this difficult Except for Iolani palace in the days of position has been filled with great credit the monarchy, there had been nothing by Mrs. Wallace Rider Farrington, who of the kind in the islands before that has always presented to the world the time. gracious serenity which one associates The old house when bought was in a with a first lady. But it takes no irnagina-` sad state of disrepair. Except for the tion to guess that behind this outward thick coral walls of the lower half of the calmness there have been many difficult house, the woodwork was almost entire- situations, much that was arduous and try- ly riddled by termites. There were no ing, funny or pathetic. Now that Gov- modern plumbing nor clothes closets, and ernor Farrington is about to retire from what is now the wide spaces of the down- office, she has told some of these things stairs was divided into a number of for publication for the first time. smaller rooms. Honolulu is an outpost capital of the The house had been built in 1842 by United States and a world crossroads. John Dominis, a New England sea cap- None of the other state capitals has any- tain, and in the words of that day was thing comparable to its cosmopolitan and described as "an elegant mansion." The diplomatic situation, and none of the big difficulties to which island builders of cities of the nation, save only Washing- that period were put, were mutely re- ton, has its official status. vealed when alterations were begun, and The city is frequently the port at which it was found that some of the concealed international celebrities first touch the woodwork of the house was of packing soil of the United States, and here they box boards, and the stately square pillars receive their official welcome. Its iso- of the lanai were filled with broken brick, lation gives to it a completeness and gay coral rubble and old bottles. self-sufficiency not found in any other The name of Washington Place, con- city of its size on the mainland. The trary to what might be expected, is not a social life of a capital, with dash added recent acquisition, under the republic, but by the army and navy, and the picturesque was given as far back as 1848 with the presence of foreign peoples, mirrors approval of the king. At that period it quaintly the life of a large national capi- was rented by the United States com- tal. missioner to the island domain, and the A constant trickle of world celebrities, name was proposed by him in honor of distinguished military officers, ambas- "the Great, the Good, the Illustrious sadors, even royalty flows through its Washington." It was so recorded to be port, as well as the stream of the lesser used in all future transfers. great and of ordinary folk. As first citi- The son of Captain Dominis married zen of the far-famed islands, and direct Lydia Kapaakea, of the island nobility, representative of the nation's president, and the couple took up their residence in the territorial governor extends a wel- Washington Place. Lydia's brother be- come to these folk. The wide, cool rooms came King Kalakaua, Hawaii's "merry and lanai of Washington Place form the monarch," and on his death she came to setting for such affairs. the throne and reigned until the abrogation Governor and Mrs. Farrington moved of the monarchy in 1893. She then re- into Washington Place in March, 1922, tired to Washington Place and remained about a year after the 1921 legislature there until her death in 1917. had bought it for the purpose of an offi- "The queen's bed" is still in Washing- cial residence. In the fall of 1929, Gov- ton Place and constitutes one of the most ernor Farrington resigned and Hon. Law- interesting pieces of furniture in the 22 THE MID-PACIFIC

house. It is about seven feet long, and the gift of a chest of sterling silver table- massively constructed of koa wood. ware was given to King Kamehameha IV. An object that is sometimes incorrect- Thereafter relations were very pleasant. ly described as "the queen's bathtub" For many years this silver—over 800 stands in a corner of the present lanai. pieces—lay in the archives, but after the It is a tremendous bowl of Chinese porce- rehabilitation of Washington Place, the lain, pronounced by experts to be a fine legislature transferred its use to the gov- example of the famous Ming period pot- ernor. Most of it is now kept in a safe tery, and was originally designed for use deposit vault, and used on official oc- as a bathtub by the Chinese. The queen, casions. The design is quaintly old fash- however, was a large woman, and it is ioned, but heavy and very beautiful. There doubtful if the bowl was ever used in that are a number of other pieces beside the way by any resident of Washington tableware. Other silver in the house in- Place. Mrs. Farrington found it in the cludes a punch bowl and cups belonging garden, its beautiful glazed surface cov- to Queen Eiliuokalani, which was pur- ered with green paint. Its history seems chased at the sale of her effects, and pre- to be unknown, but she believes that sented to Washington Place by Frank C. possibly Captain Dominis acquired it on Atherton. one of his trading voyages, and that it But in one important respect Washing- may have been used as a horse trough. ton Place differs from the White House. It is a museum piece. Whereas the latter is closely guarded, pro- Washington Place, therefore, has been tected by secret service men, and admis- connected with official life in the islands sion is only by special invitation or pass, practically from the time it was built. Washington Place stands wide open all With its purchase by the legislature, ex- day long, its French doors hardly mark- tensive repairs were begun, which were ing the difference between indoors and directed, to a large extent by Mrs. Far- out. Its location near the center of town, rington. Practically all of the woodwork added to its historic interest, combines to was renewed, everything but the French create many amusing mistakes on the doors. These took the place downstairs part of visitors and others, who regard of windows, and were brought around the it often as a public museum. Horn ; today they constitute one of the Much of the patriarchial feeling of most characteristic features of the house. older days lingers about Washington As far as possible everything was pre- Place. Often when the governor comes served in its original condition. Even pic- downstairs in the morning there will be ture frames, which were termite eaten a little group of Hawaiians waiting to see shells, were renewed as far as possible by him. They have brought some difficulty duplication. On Mrs. Farrington fell the for him to settle, even as they would task of purchasing adequate equipment have taken it to the chief in the olden for the ,housekeeping and entertaining times. which would be done in the house. Another reminder of the old days at The table silverware used at Washing- Washington Place is the elderly Hawaii- ton Place has a romantic history, being an couple who live in a small cottage in the gift of the French government to the the rear garden. Automobiles and mod- monarchy in 1857. For some years be- ern life roar past the front gates of the fore that, relations between France and house, but in this tiny cottage at the back Hawaii had been none too cordial. In is a bit of old Hawaii. The couple speak France, Napoleon III and the beautiful practically no English. The woman can Empress Eugenie were at the height of often be found sitting on the floor in their power. It was at their request that front of her door, making leis for Mrs. THE MID-PACIFIC 23

Farrington. The man works around the and the formal black and white of Oc- garden. He is said to have been the sec- cidental men and women. ond coachman for King Kalakaua. In Weaving in and out with these of other true Hawaiian fashion he sometimes pre- nations are always the native Hawaiians, fers to do his work in the middle of a forming a unique keynote. Trailing holo- moonlight night, and Mrs. Farrington kus of black or white with leis of flowers will hear him watering and scraping up or of feathers are worn by the women, leaves when other folks are in bed. noted for their queenly poise. Sometimes Like all old houses, Washington Place the officers of various Hawaiian societies is said to be haunted. Some have de- do honor to special occasions by appear- clared that King Kalakaua himself re- ing in their ceremonial capes of red or turns to one of the upper rooms at night. yellow, cleverly simulating the real feather At any rate, footsteps were heard for capes now in the museums. "Palace awhile so distinctly that even Mrs. Far- guards," as in days of old, stand at the rington admits she was startled on one or doorways wearing small feather capes. two occasions. Then the governor fig- And against the walls of the lanai are two ured it out that there was some kind of tall feather kahilis. Almost always, the peculiar echo from the stairway of Iolani governor and Mrs. Farrington wear leis, school directly next door, At any rate, the gift of some Hawaiian guest. since the school has been moved and the A feature of entertainments at Wash- old building abandoned, the ghostly foot- ington Place is the Hawaiian music fur- steps are heard no more. nished by Mrs. Bina Mossman and her Washington Place, as the "first house" singing girls. Wearing leis and holokus of the islands, has been the setting for they sing and play the lilting hulas, or dozens of picturesque entertainments in soft sentimental songs of the islands and the past seven years. A point of similar- sometimes one of them can be persuaded to give a graceful exhibition of the native ity between Washington city and Wash- dance. ington Place is the attention paid in each to social precedence. At formal and of- One of the features which has been ficial dinners, congenial people are placed especially enjoyed by Governor and Mrs. together as far as possible, but if prece- Farrington is the annual reception to the dence demands another arrangements, members of Kawaiahao church on the congeniality must fall by the wayside. Sunday after New Year's. Immediately after the church services the congregation The international conferences, which moves over as a body and greets the gov- now take place in Honolulu almost every ernor. After the refreshments have been summer, are the occasion for some of the enjoyed, the guests reverse the usual pro- most interesting of the gatherings in cedure and entertain their hosts and each Washington Place. Peoples from all other with singing and other music, and around the Pacific attend these confer- there are usually speeches. The occasion, ences, and as the occasion is a gala one, always includes the singing of the "gov- they often wear their picturesque native ernor's hymn" in Hawaiian, "Jesus like a costumes, and formal and ceremonious shepherd lead us." behavior is the rule. Chinese gentlemen, In preparing for the semi-monthly pub- in heavy brocade robes and carrying lic receptions which. have become such a fans ; Filipino women in trailing skirts, feature of the winter social season, ex- and gauzy blouses with sleeves like great perience has taught about the right butterflies, petite Japanese women in amounts needed. But it was not always clinging kimonos and gold embroidered so. At one of the early receptions, the obis, all mingle with the latest from Paris grand official house-warming on April 24 THE MID-PACIFIC

21, 1922, when callers were received from Siam and his daughter, Lord and Lady 3 until 6 and from 8 to 12 o'clock, the re- Allenby, Galli-Curci, Blasco Ibanez, Am- freshments gave out long before the guests bassadors Matsudaira, Claudel, Hanihari, stopped coming. Two thousand called Debuchi, the Prime Minister of Aus- that day. Nowadays when there is any- tralia, Cabinet Secretaries Weeks, Work thing left over, a telephone call to some and Davis, many naval officers from Eng- of the schools or institutions in town pro- lish, German, French, South American, vides them with a feast. Japanese and other ships, and of course The former mistress of Washington large numbers of traveling congressmen. Place was very fortunate with her "As I look back over my life in Wash- servants. She has had a Japanese couple ington Place," Mrs. Farrington concludes, with her 25 years, the man being the "I am struck by the continual kindness cook and the woman the housekeeper. and friendliness of people. Flowers ar- These she can rely on to any extent. Ex- rive here almost every day from friends, tra trained waiters from the Young Hotel or merely acquaintances and very often were secured for special occasions. from complete strangers, who perhaps Among the many famous people who have attended one of our receptions. And have been entertained at Washington often there are little notes from people Place are the Crown Prince and Princess saying how much they have enjoyed com- of Sweden, two Japanese royal princes ing here. Our life in Washington Place and the present crown princess who was has really been a very wonderful experi- then Miss Matsudaira, the Prince of ence."

Washington Place is set in a luxuriant tropical garden in the heart of Honolulu. THE MID-PACIFIC 25

West Justralia has its metropolis today in Perth, a modern city of note.

Egy0:0 11...7.1„1,1,71C71.1L7rEC711.C711MIC7711:711C717■7r • ■9114 MMV,•141,4,1tt Western Australia's First Century By the HON. J. W. KIRWAN, M. L. C. (President of the Legislative Council of Western Australia) rdianiffirclUffinnickl-whannUniraWilnrilhauni-- ffi zatU=/clunir'''n/0

The handful of settlers who, with their have been conscious of the knowledge wives and families early in June, 1829, that prompted the writer of the lines : landed from England near the mouth of "Others, I doubt not, if not we— the Swan River on the coast of what was The fruits of all our toils will see, then known as New Holland, must have And we forgotten or unknown. had stout hearts. Of their own free will Young children gather as their own they had decided to undertake the stu- The harvest that the dead hath sown." pendous task of pioneers and endeavor to By the work, the sacrifices and the per- carve out homes for themselves in what severance of those settlers, there has been was an unexplored wilderness. They preserved for the Empire the western cannot have failed to realize that they third of the Australian continent, an area were certain to experience trials, difficul- nearly one million square miles in extent ties and dangers, that they would have to and capable of supporting in affluence a toil from daylight to dark, and that even if the colony was a success it was unlikely European population many times larger that they themselves would enjoy the full than that of the British Isles. The cen- fruits of their labors. Each of them must tenary of a bold and successful venture THE MID—PACIFIC

in ing h fis l ar Pe THE MID-PACIFIC 27 that has had such far-reaching conse- lished themselves on the mainland. They quences deserves notice. had to find supplies of fresh water and In 1829 the Swan River and, indeed, they had to search for the best land for the whole of the area that now comprises gardens and farms. They laid the foun- Western Australia was extremely remote dations of the towns of Fremantle and from civilization. The country had not a Perth. Other ships arrived with addi- single European resident and the nearest tional settlers and stores, and at the be- white settlements were at Sydney and ginning of October the number of set- Hobart, places that could only be reached tlers, including women and children from by a boisterous sea journey of over 1,500 England, was 150, making the whole miles. The Pamelia, the sailing vessel party at Swan River about 300. The which carried the settlers from England, struggle for existence was severe. They was but 449 tons register. The voyage were unacquainted with the possibilities occupied four months. Captain (after- of the soil. They had to cut tracks wards Sir James) Stirling was on board through the forest. They had to clear as Lieut-Governor of the proposed col- ground of heavy timber. They had to ony, and with him were various officials. build river boats. They had to erect A warship, H.M.S. Sulphur, accompan- fences to prevent such stock as they ied the Pamelia with a detachment of brought with them from straying into soldiers for the protection of the new swamps and getting lost. They had to colony. The settlement was promoted by protect their families and themselves, their the Imperial authorities mainly because it crops and their stock from aborigines who was feared that the French might annex became troublesome and treacherous. Ad- a portion of the western part of Aus- miral Fremantle, describing a visit to the tralia. It was thought that the isolated colony in 1832, writes : "It is laughable to settlements of Sydney and Hobart on the see a shepherd with a musket instead of a eastern side, might not constitute what crook, and every flock has to have two if would be regarded as an effective occupa- not three men to guard it." tion of the whole continent. For the first few years the settlers The troubles of the settlers began al- were busy at the hundred and one tasks most as soon as they sighted the land of that engage the attention of pioneers in their choice. Owing to ignorance of the a new country. Then fewer ships and waters of the coast, the Pamelia ran fewer settlers came from England. Out- aground. She was in peril, the weather side markets were inaccessible and there became threatening and to ensure the was practically no local market for set- safety of the women and children they tlers' produce. For a period the place had to be taken off. Subsequently she ultimately became a sort of Sleepy Hol- floated off the sandbank. low, "the world forgetting and by the On landing on the beach the settlers world forgot." found themselves amidst novel surround- Admiral Fremantle who, on behalf of ings. The trees, the undergrowth, the King George the Fourth had taken fauna and the climate were new and formal possession of the country before strange. They had to rely on their own the arrival of the settlers in 1829, re- resources and make the best of the ma- visited the place early in September, 1832. terials at hand to provide themselves with The population had grown to 2,000. He shelter, first in tents and then in hastily states in his diary that he was disap- constructed huts. Many of them were pointed with Perth, the capital, "very few gentlefolk unaccustomed to manual houses having been built and many of labor, but they had grit and determina- these being scarcely worthy of the name, tion. Some weeks were spent by the set- being mostly of wood and very small." tlers on Garden Island before they estab- On the other hand, the port of Fremantle, 28 THE MID-PACIFIC

West Australia ships many cattle, and in West Australia the aboriginal native makes a good cowboy.

which was "mostly occupied by persons particularly adapted for them and even keeping stores," had "many pretty toler- the sand about Fremantle produces as fine able houses and several are in progress." as can be seen in any part of the world. The Admiral visited many farms. The Capt. Stirling had returned to England state of the settlement three years and at the request of the settlers generally to three months after its establishment is represent to the Government the state of thus described by him : the colony and to request that they might "I was pleased to see that the settlers not be left to their own resources in the had brought so much land into cultivation. desolate manner they are at present. The This year it is expected that half as much fact is there is no money in the colony, wheat as is required will be grown for those who had money having expended it, the colony and next year there will be an and there being no Government expendi- abundance. Provisions were very diffi- ture, I see no means of their extricating cult to get and the settlers were badly off, themselves from their difficulties. The the Government from their scanty means salaries of the officers were so low that it having been obliged to stop the supplies was quite impossible they can live on to all excepting Government officers. them. The Governor £800 a year and Mutton was 2s per lb. and kangaroo Colonial Secretary £400, and mutton at 1s. 8d. I fear some poor people were very 2s per lb., flour at 10d., butter at 5s, it is badly off and had not tasted a piece of difficult to make ends meet. Labor is, even salt meat for many weeks. Vege- of course, most expensive and difficult to tables were abundant and crops and po- be got, an artificer receiving 10s. 6d. a tatoes large and good. The soil appears day and then only working when they 29 THE MID-PACIFIC

Perth, the capital of West Australia, has a Parliament House that would credit any large city. think proper. I am of opinion the best that convicts be sent to the country was thing that can be done for the colony is granted. The first convicts arrived in to make it a penal settlement. The labor 1850. They were employed on public of the convicts would be most valuable as works and in other ways and their pres- there is now everything to do and no ence meant the expenditure of money to the advantage of the general community. means of completing anything." Other accounts of the colony written There was a cessation of transportation to Western Australia in 1868 when the at a later date than that of Admiral Fre- mantle, were even more depressing. The population had grown to 22,700. The suggestion was made in many quarters fears that the presence of convicts would that convicts should be sent to the settle- have tainted the community have proved utterly groundless. Today no part of the ment, but it was strongly opposed by the settlers. One of the conditions of the Empire is more moral or law-abiding: The discovery of gold at Coolgardie, in foundation of the colony was that it was 1892, and the opening up later at Kal- not to suffer from the taint of the convict system, and unquestionably that condition goorlie of the wealth of the Golden Mile, ushered in an era of progress and pros- was an important factor in inducing perity. The population, which in 1891 many settlers with wives and families to was 53,000, rose quickly, and in 1900 it go there. The difficulties arising from the was 180,000, whilst in the same period scarcity of labor and other circumstances the yearly revenue of the Government gradually brought about a change of advanced from £500,000 to nearly £3,- opinion and finally a petition from the colonists, who then numbered some 6,000, 000,000. 30 THE MID -PACIFIC

The immense capabilities of Western not even tracks a century ago, there are Australia as one of the world's great now no less than 4,000 miles of railways wheat-producing countries, were only re- open for traffic. There is one motor alized some ten or eleven years ago. In vehicle for every 15 of the population 1908 the acreage under wheat was only and there is an excellent airways service 279,000 acres, but today it is almost 3,- between Perth in the south and Wynd- 000,000 acres, and vast areas remain to be ham in the north. An east-west aviation opened up. It is expected that next sea- service across the continent is just being son's crop will be in the neighborhood of inaugurated. Roads and bridges have 50,000,000 bushels. The wool produced been made even in the most remote and amounts to some 50,000,000 lbs. annually least populated areas ; forests have been and the number of sheep is increasing. felled and bush lands cleared, though Fruit growing is rapidly creating a large many millions of acres yet remain to be export market and other industries are cultivated ; the Agricultural Bank lends also advancing. Today the annual rev- money to new settlers to tide them over enue amounts to some £10,000,000 apart the initial years of struggle ; agriculturists from what is collected by the Federal au- have the assistance of expert scientists thorities, and the population is over 405,- who are paid by the Government ; schools 000. There is, perhaps, no more progres- exist everywhere and in some districts sive or prosperous part of the Empire. where the children are scattered over wide A contrast may well be made between areas they are driven to and from school the prospects of migrants who went to at the expense of the State ; education is Western Australia 100 years ago and free and no fees are charged even at the those who go there today. The new University of Western Australia. The arrival nowadays would find the harbor path has been made smooth indeed for at Fremantle crowded with shipping. fresh arrivals, and it has been made so by Perth, with a population of 190,000, is one the courage and labors of those pioneers of the most picturesque and up-to-date who left England 100 years ago to estab- cities of the Empire. Where there were lish a colony in an unknown wilderness. THE MID-PACIFIC 31

Rocks in the northwestern country that tell the story of a crater lake.

0844pAmm ee .41),..mosg • IC707T --L,---,K7W-711VzipULJITC7117FITVIIT:70:71 • TRIVIIC71111:77 • • • • •4 Rock Tells Story m '1 By PHIL R. BROGAN 43 .1 Member, Editorial Staff, The Bend Bulletin, Bend, Oregon __AKIMMUinSclica------ EaTicTitTIMMff.t=iniinuntc-aintz=nj

A huge volume of history describing a ter-tribal wars of man or the puny forays "lost world" ordinarily would not prove made by that empire of old which called interesting to the vacationist, but when it itself Rome. is learned that this volume is not the Should the vacationist traveling through work of man, that its chapters are com- the Columbia River Gorge stop for a posed of strata formed by ancient seas few brief minutes at the Eagle Creek and lakes and that it is hound in basalt camp grounds and make inquiries of spewed from the earth as molten rivers, Albert Wisendanger, forest service rang- the hurried motorist visiting the Cascades er, he will be shown a leaf deposit that of Oregon may be induced to take time tains formed before the CCascade Moun-un- out for a few minutes and learn a few tains came into existence. Millions of things about remote periods when strange yearsago, aeolo, g gists say, a forestfore flour- creatures ranged over a land now domi- ished in this area—a forest that is now nated by high peaks, such as Mt. Hood, buried under thousands of feet of lava. the Three Sisters and Mt. Thielsen. The vacationist who can grasp the signi- The history read from the foundation ficance of the presence under the Colum- rocks of the Cascades and their foothills bia basalts of the Eagle Creek fossil goes back into the past. But, neverthe- leaves will be able, as he motors through less, this history is so accurate and or- Oregon, to appreciate the grandeur of the derly that the student of 'ancient life is Cascades—montainsu which were born able to forecast what will be found when from a folded sea bed. a new leaf—a stratum of lake or sea sedi- Proof that the Cascades are mountainsnt ment—is examined. And, regardless of and superstructures of mountains that long names used by scientists who are broke through a terrainonce oashed w by known to the public as paleontologists or primeval seas is found on both sides of paleobotanists, this history is far more the range. In the Eugene country are interesting than that dealing with the in- marine deposits which were laid down in 3? THE MID-PACIFIC

• Great peaks and pinnacles along the Columbia River, proving that once a primeval sea broke through and forced its way to the ocean. THE MID-PACIFIC 33 that period known to geologists as the tropical creatures which lived in forests oligocene, but even before an oligocene and ranged over prairies long since buried sea swept eastward to the Cascade fold or under volcanic debris. The most profuse- formed great embayments, other mighty ly illustrated chapter of the book dealing oceans washed against a far more ancient with primeval Oregon is that recorded land mass, probably the Shoshone Island in the John Day rocks, exposed by the described by Prof. Thomas Condon, and John Day, Crooked and Deschutes rivers left records of their encroachments on and their tributaries. This "chapter" has both sides of the present Cascades. In a total thickness of some 10,000 feet and the Suplee and Burns country of Eastern virtually every horizon holds stony rem- Oregon have been found traces of this sea nants of mammals which millions of years —mineralized remnants of creatures that ago grazed on plants now impressed in lived near the shore of primeval oceans rocks or lived on animals which ate herbs of cretaceous times. In Western Ore- and grasses. gon, especially near Medford, the same Some of the most interesting chapters marine formations have been found. It touching on Oregon's ancient past are was through these old sea beds that the found far under the Cascade lavas, in the Cascade lavas, spewed from a breaking gorges of the Columbia and the Deschutes f old, built up one of the most scenic but there are also enthralling chapters mountain ranges in the world—the Cas- near the surface, in caverns of the recent cades. lavas and even on the mile-high divide The basalt-bound book holding the his- known as "the roof of Oregon." Only tory of Oregon and the Cascade Moun- recently there was discovered in lava cav- tains can be opened at any chapter and erns near Bend a fossil fauna representa- read forward or backward with equal in- tive of the so-called ice age of the geo- terest. Should the vacationist visiting logical column—the pleistocene of scien- Central Oregon stop at Crooked River tists. Skeleton Cave, 12 miles southeast bridge, one of the highest spans of its of Bend, has yielded part of a huge bear, type in America, he can start near the one-third larger than any member of this end of the volume and go back through family now living. The fossils _found in the years, the centuries, the eons and this cave have attracted the attention of major geologic divisions of time to the the United States National Museum di- beginning of the Cascade Mountains. Or rectors. It is believed that the long caves should the stop be made in the vicinity of of the Bend country will in time provide Mitchell, center of one of the most richly definite data bearing on the creatures that fossiliferous regions in North America, lived in the upper Deschutes basin 50,000 the story of Oregon can be read from years ago. the beginning of the book forward Fossils play a very important part in through the records of cretaceous seas, illustrating the record of the rocks, but disrupted mountains, oligocene lakes and towering peaks and timbered canyons also miocene lands to the time when the Des- add their impressive chapters. For in- chutes lavas filled an ancient gorge of stance, just west of the McKenzie sum- Crooked River, then, in more recent ages, mit, crossed by one of the West's most carved the canyon now spanned by the scenic roads, are massive cliffs, those on noted bridge of The Dalles-Calif ornia the north forming the Deer Butte ram- Highway. parts. These cliffs, on the east and west The story written in the basal rocks of sides of the upper McKenzie Valley, were the Cascades is not only clearly told in once a continuous mass of rock, formed the aged strata, but is well illustrated. when rivers of molten basalt flowed from Some of these illustrations, skeletons en- the Cascade summit and filled the old Mc- tombed in rocks—are of huge, semi- Kenzie Valley. These towering cliffs THE MID-PACIFIC

are proof that the McKenzie, like the Deschutes and Crooked Rivers, has bat- tled for ages to maintain rights of way through recurring floods of rock. Crater Lake, scenic jewel of the North- west playground, also has its story re- corded in rocks. Around the rim of Crater Lake are huge masses of rock which plainly illustrate the manner lava flowing down the sides of ancient Mount Mazama, destroyed when Crater Lake came into existence, filled up depressions carved by glaciers and melting snow. Striations made by Mazama's glaciers can also be found on rocks of Crater Lake. The stories in the rocks plainly tell that long ages ago two gigantic mountains, Mount Multnomah, in the present Three Sisters region, and Mount Mazama, in the southern area of the Oregon Cascades, towered into the clouds to a probable height of 18,000 feet. Down the sides of these huge peaks moved glaciers, con- stantly fed by snow which accumulated both summer and winter. Mazama and Multnomah were ice mountains in those days—but their glaciers were doomed to melt in reservoirs of lava. Then came the cataclysm. Mount Ma- zama disappeared and Crater Lake came into existence. Mount Multnomah was shattered by volcanism, but Vulcan was lenient. In place of Mount Multnomah, destroyed by volcanism, Oregon was given the North, Middle and South Sister, and Broken Top. Oregon's geologic history is at present hound in basalt but the volume is not yet complete. "Everlasting mountains" prove to be but ephemeral ranges when their age is reckoned by the geologic clock. In time, far, far in the future, the Cascades will disappear, worn away by winds and snows and rains, and maybe once more the Pacific will roll eastward and leave A bit of the rock coast of Washington that the its marine record on top of that horizon geologist can read like a book. which at present is our home.

THE MID-PACIFIC 35

The hunter's delight, Alaska, ;where herds of carabou roam the great spaces.

11;;Imi67riunK7n6im-16niunr.7..w.Ig.nrunufronuourrlunvircimiinow Up In Alaska By ROBERT FORTHINGHAM (Of the Circumnavigation Club) • , • • • • rcli—nninu--- --zinmliffnuninnuca:

The romance that envelops Alaska West Virginia, with Porto Rico and Ha- springs from its vastness, its transcen- waii thrown in for good measure, sounds dent beauty, its far-flung borders, the more fanciful than convincing. If, how- magnificence and plentitude of its wild ever, you will superimpose a map of game—and the glamour of gold. Words Alaska upon that of the United States, are inadequate to conveying a concep- drawn to scale, you will see that it ex- tion of its size. To state that this tre- tends from San Francisco to Washing- mendous land mass is equal to one-fifth ton, D. C., that its extent from north to that of the United States or—that its south is equal to that between the bor- area of nearly 600,000 square miles ders of Mexico and Canada—and its comprises that of the states of Califor- coast line is longer than that of the Unit- nia, Washington and Oregon, the New ed States itself. England States, New York, Pennsyl- In rugged beauty and grandeur there vania, New Jersey, Maryland, Delaware, isn't a coast line in the world to com- 3() THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID -PACIFIC 37 pare with it—and I include Norway in riety of climate as may be found in the that statement. Neither is there a head- States. The Japanese Current which land nor harbor on either the Atlantic flows along and makes a complete cir- or Pacific Coast that can hold a candle cuit of the southern coast line, exerts a to the majesty of Point St. Elias or Res- great influence upon the 50 to 100 inches urrection Bay. A large order, you say ? of annual rainfall characteristic of that My reply is : go and see for yourself region. In fact, the only portion of and be convinced. Speaking from a that coast line that is icebound during rather wide experience of 25 years of the winter is that which touches the travel I may say that I have sailed the northern part of the Bering Sea and the Seven Seas and am familiar with the far- Arctic Ocean. All other ports except away corners of the earth but—never Nome are open to shipping all winter have I seen such supernal, breath-taking long. beauty as greets the eyes in the famous The Department of Agriculture at Inside Passage where flower-clad and Washington h a s demonstrated that studded mountains sit with their heads 100,000 square miles are suitable for in the clouds and their feet in a sum- farming and can produce all the hardy mer sea. vegetables, grains, forage plants and One of the strangest and most per- berries. The long summer days and sub- sistent misconceptions of this wonderful irrigation are conducive to the rapid possession of ours, which has held good growth of the same variety of garden for years and played a definite part in truck that is grown in the States. The dubbing its purchase from Russia in average wheat yield at Fairbanks, the 1867 as "Seward's Folly," is that it is a northern terminus of the Alaska Rail- forbidding land of eternal ice and snow, road, 470 miles inland, is 19% bushels unfit for occupation by white men and to the acre—and they grow strawberries inhabited principally by Eskimos and nearly as big as golf balls pretty much Indians—and, further, that it is of little all along the line of that amazing rail- or no value to the Commonwealth. Also way which cost your Uncle Samuel the —it may be stated that this view is not modest sum of $60,000,000. Like unto without its believers and supporters in most National Government enterprises, our legislative halls at Washington. A there was more or less politics in the in- greater mistake could scarcely be imag- ception of that superbly built line, which ined. And I believe I ran across its was started in 1915 and completed in 1924. source during my first visit to Alaska But like the purchase of the Territory last year. An old "Sourdough" in Sew- from Russia, 62 years ago, it has already ard who had made his pile in '98 and re- justified itself and will ultimately prove mained in the Territory because he the commercial salvation of what, in my loved it, ventured the opinion that the humble opinion, is destined to be a cupidity of the Russian discoverers in magnificent commonwealth. It is emi- 1741, when they learned how plentiful nently worthy of note, also, that for the the sea otter and the fur seal were, led first time since its completion the rail- to their disseminating those harrowing road has at its helm the first real, prac- tales in order to discourage the rest of tical, honest-to-God experienced railroad the world from coming in and sharing man and administrator ever sent to in the great profits which were acquired Alaska from Washington—a son of the from that industry. Whether that is soil, so to speak, of splendid capacity true or not—it sounds quite reasonable. and sympathetic understanding of As a matter of fact, the greater por- Alaska's needs—in the person of Col. tion of Alaska lies in the north temper- Otto F. Ohlson, until recently Superin- ate zone and exhibits about the same va- tendent of the Northern Pacific Railway 38 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 39

and who served with distinction in the bargo as that. And that's the only thing World War. Indicative of the funda- that is the matter with Alaska today—and mental character of his training, it may being only a Territory, its sole repre- also be stated that Colonel Ohlson sentative in Congress is a delegate, with- served his time as a trackwalker, an out a vote, who may be likened to a beg- engine wiper and a fireman and rose to gar with a saucer in his hand soliciting his present eminence in his chosen field alms from an aggregation of men himself. through sheer ability and guts—I love Indeed, you may take it from me that that word. And it is this particular the more intelligent and far-seeing ,Alas- phase of character that has already en- kans, without reference to their political deared him to the Alaskan who is ac- preferences, are looking with renewed customed to- hope to a future of at least eight years, -Wring his food from the desert rude— with that peerless Californian, President His pittance from the sand." Hoover in the White House, and that oth- There are those among our Solons at er estimable on of the Golden State, Ray Washington who still regard Alaska as Lyman Wilbur, Secretary of the Interior, "Seward's Folly," who would be obliged in immediate charge of Alaska's destinies. to consult the encyclopedia in the first They are counting upon California's close place to learn who Seward was and next proximity to Washington for that sym- to find that it was he that engineered the pathetic appreciation of Alaska's needs, deal that bought Alaska from Russia at apparently so hopelessly beyond the ken the ridiculous figure of $7,200,000 (a or the interest of those statesmen from the matter of two cents per acre) thereby East or the Middle West. They like to blocking its possible purchase by Great think of a President in the White House Britain, and adding to the United States who has had his hands anointed with the a Territory the total exports from which, products of old Mother Earth, who knows since its purchase 62 years ago, amount what ore feels like, smells like, who has to nearly a billion and a half dollars. his feet planted upon those fundamental These are the breed of so-called states- verities upon which the glorious super- men who discuss solemnly on the back- structure of the Pacific Coast has been wardness of a Territory that lies 1,700 raised. miles from our coast line, having no con- Of course, it goes without saying that ception of the fact that the National Gov- the Territory of Alaska has considerable ernment itself is responsible for whatever to bewail in the way of Federal Govern- quality of backwardness remains in that ment by Bureaus and the inevitable red wonderful land. tape resulting therefrom. Take the Ken- In 1906, in the belief that our old po- ai peninsula, for instance ; that part paral- litical friend, Predatory Interests, was lelling the Alaska Railroad is under the girding up his loins, Washington abrupt- jurisdiction of the Department of the In- ly withdrew from public entry all the terior. From the railroad to the Russian coal, oil and timber lands of the Terri- River, in another direction, is under the tory, since which time the best any Alas- Department of Agriculture. All of that kan outfit can do is to lease his lands from portion of the peninsula from the Rus- Uncle Sam when it comes to specialize in sian River to Cook Inlet is under the War those products. I don't need to empha- Department. All the rivers, lakes and size to an audience like this the effect of streams are under the Department of such a procedure upon capital that would Commerce. The Department of Justice ad- otherwise be open for investment. Capi- ministers all questions of Territorial law. tal, that timid jade, would sprout wings The radio station at Cordova is under the over night and fly to the uttermost parts Navy Department, and various other Gov- of the earth in the face of such an em- ernment radio stations and the Alaska 40 THE MID-PACIFIC

Road Commission—one of the most im- brated flyer is Noel Wein, who recently portant in the whole territory—is under completed the first commercial round trip the War Department. In addition to this by airplane between Alaska and Siberia. rather involved situation, there is, in the It was on this trip that Wein picked up Territorial Legislature, what might be $100,000 of furs at a Siberian trading termed the Native bloc—or a small and post on the Arctic coast and carried them well-organized political clique who have back to Fairbanks. The Fairbanks air- the native vote effectively lined up for ob- port has two runways, each over 2,000 vious purposes—much the same way as feet long and over 400 feet wide, and is Tammany Hall controls the vast foreign equipped with a night beacon and flood- vote which inhabits New York's famous lights. In addition, there are 57 graded East Side. And when all's said and done, airports throughout the Territory for your real Alaskan would rather put up summer work. The National Govern- with the bureaucratic method because it ment has recognized this local enterprise is clean and decent than to face the pos- by establishing an aerological weather sibility of having the Territory under the station at Fairbanks, the outcome of control of those unscrupulous local po- which will unquestionably result in the liticians who dominate the Native bloc substitution of airplanes for dog teams and would use it for their own ends if in carrying the mail into the interior of not restricted by Federal control. In the Territory. other words, it's a complete stalemate With a population of 55,00o, approxi- with the net result that the capital so vi- mately one-third of which is native or In- tally necessary to a thorough development dian, Alaska is pre-eminently a white of the country is kept away. Their one man's country. It has four National and hope lies in the National Government's 13 Territorial banks ; six daily and 12 abrogation of the Leasing law already weekly newspapers ; 18 Chambers of touched upon, the necessity for which, it Commerce and Commercial Clubs. Also— is alleged, is wholly past. Certain it is it has two lines of steamships with a that such a move would do more for the weekly service throughout the year be- advancement of the Territory than any- tween Seattle and SeWard and interven- thing else—and your Alaskan lives in ing ports ; the Alaska Steamship Company hopes. and the Admiral Line. To these may be One of the most rapidly developed and added the Canadian Pacific and the Cana- intensive enterprises in the whole Ter- dian National Steamship lines, both of ritory is aviation, which is a direct out- which maintain a summer service from come of the flight of American army avi- Vancouver. And it's worthy of note that ators from New York to Nome, in 1920, all these boats are filled to capacity during now rated as one of the greatest aviation the summer season. Perhaps this may ac- feats in history. It is not generally known count for the fact that bobbed hair, short that Ben Eielson, the dauntless pilot who skirts and silk underwear have invaded flew Sir George Hubert Wilkens across the Arctic Circle. In the village of Nor- the Arctic ice from Point Barrow to vik, in the vicinity of Kotzebue Sound. Spitzbergen a year ago, and for which he with a population of 400 Eskimos, may has just been awarded the Harmon Tro- be found many of the luxuries of civili- phy, was an army aviator during the zation. They make their own electric World War, after which he took a job in light with gas engines and generators ; the Fairbanks High School as an in- yes—and there is a phonograph to every structor in Science. It was here the f or- family. The younger element wear silk ward-looking Alaskan business men found stockings and high-heeled shoes and the him when they had decided to establish family clothes line will pass muster in an airport at Fairbanks. Another cele- any city of the States. At the same time THE MID- PACIFIC 41 the elder squaws of the town find their equal parts with native tobacco and enjoy choicest titbit in extracting the roe out of a real smoke. a salmon with their bare hands and stow- Another contributing factor to Alaskan ing it away in their mouths on the spot. romance is distance—a factor that re- While I am on the subject of the In- acts as much upon the Alaskan himself dian, you may be interested in knowing as it does upon the visitor. Few of us real- that certain tribes of Alaskan natives ize that there is a 1,700-mile stretch of salt never nurse their children. When a baby water between the Pacific Coast and Se- is born, a neighbor takes it away and ward, and that it takes as long to get nurses it on a concoction made from the there as it does to cross the Atlantic. suet of the mountain sheep and a certain This is the feature that contributes ma- weed which reduces the whole mixture terially to a certain provincialism in the to something equivalent to mother's milk, Alaskan which makes him all the more thus permitting the mother to recover interesting. Lacking many of the advan- from her confinement quickly and get tages of the "Outside," as the States are back to her work without the necessity colloquially described, he still prefers his for nursing her own child. Contrari- rugged independence and a modest busi- wise—down in the Aleutian Islands, ness, in which his wife generally has a where the mother does her own nursing— part, to the rush and hurly-burly of our when the mother dies, leaving a nursing big cities. During a sojourn of five child, the -family substitutes a chunk of months in the Territory last year, I failed beaver fat on which the youngster sucks. to meet either a man or a woman who Unnecessary to say, the child does not do was in the least dissatisfied with their lot. as well as he might and survival is quite a They have the radio and their "movies" problem. are practically the same as ours, only a The Porcupine River Eskimos are hit "past clue" as compared with our up- to-clateness. "High-hatting" is unknown, children-worshippers, as contrasted with class distinction likewise. You may meet the ancestor worship of China and Japan, a very charming and stylishly dressed for instance. All the little folk are rev- young woman at a bridge party today and erenced and treated with great care and have her for a waitress in the best pa- consideration. This tribe, also, instead tronized restaurant in town tomorrow— of having a Shaman or Medicine Man, ap- and you may find, in the bargain, that she points a local priestess or Medicine Wo- is a graduate of the Agricultural College man, frequently a =married woman, to at Fairbanks, where she specialized in whom they impute great powers and act Home Economics or Business Adminis- accordingly. Every night, before going tration. Likewise, you may find that the to sleep, the various members of the tribe man who drives your car during the sum- parade to the igloo of this woman, where mer is an instructor in Chemistry or each and all receive a sort of blessing or Civil Engineering at the same institution benediction, after which they lie clown for the balance of the year. Everybody peacefully for the night. This is a daily works. There are no drones. And no- occurrence because the blessing is not sup- body ever asks concerning your birth, re- posed to last more than 24 hours. A ligion, politics or previous condition of great food delicacy of this tribe consists servitude—that's the most unpardonable in taking the head of a caribou, after sin of all. If you are on the square, skinning it, and pounding up the whole they'll take you to their hearts ; if not, head, skull, teeth, jaws, muscles, eyes, they'll drop you flat. I failed to meet a tongue, nose, etc., into a pulpy mass, man out of a job or one seeking charity. which they boil and eat with great gusto. There are six separate and distinct Then they mix the hair of the animal in mountain ranges in Alaska, varying in 42 THE MID-PACIFIC

One-third of the population of zilaska is pure Indian, and among the old families there is a pride that finds expression in the carving of the family history on totem poles. THE MID-PACIFIC 43 length between 200 and 1,000 miles. Eight 26 and started for Alaska on a voyage of of these peaks are higher than Mount discovery, with no other assets than his Whitney, with its 14,502 feet, while more Mining Engineer's degree and a person- than a score attain an altitude somewhere ality. With horses and a couple of Indian between that figure and 10,000 feet above guides, he journeyed from the little town sea-level. Chief among them all is mighty of Valdez on the southern coast through Mount McKinley, with its towering the wilderness to another little town by majesty of 20,310 feet—Alaska's great- the name of Eagle on the Yukon River, est attraction, and rightly so. And— and thence back to the coast by way of what is of even greater interest to the Dawson and the White Pass, having ne- traveler, it is the only one of our great gotiated a trip which at that time had National park attractions which has not been made by but a few white men. It been reduced to the least common de- was the year of the great Klondike gold nominator of drabness by the omnipresent rush, but Birch was not particularly in- motorist camper. Five days' journey from terested in that hectic pursuit of the placer the Atlantic to the Pacific seaboard plus product. He had a vision of greater ac- seven days' steamer trip from Seattle to complishments. And believing that Alas- Seward, plus two days' railway journey ka held the key to his dreams, he returned on the Alaska Railroad will inevitably the following year and continued his in- place a limit upon the number of visitors vestigations. While on his way out in to that marvelous shrine for years to the latter part of two, he learned of the come. Nevertheless it must be stated rich copper strike in the Copper River that they are increasing every year, and Valley, the fundamental character of it will not be long before the Alaska which was sufficiently apparent to justify Road Commission will have its 85 miles him in buying up the claims of seven men of motor road completed from the Mc- at an average figure of $25,000 cash. As Kinley Park station practically to the base was so frequently the case in those lawless of the mountain. And, when that time days, however, it turned out that the pros- comes, no one need waste any tears over pectors in whose names these claims had never having gazed upon the Matterhorn been filed had been grubstaked by a cer- or watched the sunrise over the topmost tain development company who quickly tip of Everest from Tiger Hill, a few seized the opportunity for a lawsuit in miles out of the little town of Darjeoling. the belief that Birch's title could be prov- When Mount McKinley's iS,000 feet en invalid. As many of you doubtless above the table land upon which it rests know, suits of this character are a com- is compared with the 14,000-f oot rise mon occurrence both in the mining and from the plateau upon which -Mount Ever- the oil fields and are generally waged by est rests, it constitutes the most stupen- a powerful clique with unlimited means, dous mass on the earth's surface. And with the real intent of tiring out the it lies right at your doors. Yea, verily, claim-holder and at least forcing him to a brethren, "See America First." compromise. But they didn't know Birch. Alaska's greatest and least-known ro- The case was argued in the courts for mance, which is more or less of a practical four years, during which period not a nature, clusters about one of our great stroke of work was done in the develop- Captains of Industry—a man so modest ment of the mine. Meanwhile various and of so retiring a nature that I question mining engineers arrived on the spot from if his name, even, be known to many of different parts of the country, all of my hearers. It was in 1898 that a young whom returned to their principals with man by the name of Stephen Birch grad. adverse reports. They declared that the uated from the Columbia University ore, though very rich, was principally of School of Mines at the youthful age of surface formation and would not be 44 THE MID-PACIFIC

found at depths that would justify the im- per mines in the world were carried to mense outlay necessary to development. a successful conclusion. Today the Ken- Birch continued to "saw wood." After necott Copper mines are shipping from four years of dreary waiting and clogged Alaska between six and seven million fighting, the decision of the court was pounds of copper ore every month hav- finally handed down in Birch's favor. ing a commercial value of $8,000,000 an- With his decision in his pocket, so to nually, the mining of which alone gives speak, Birch posted off to New York and employment to over i,000 men. Romance? induced his backers to put up the modest Adventure ? Ask Stephen Birch. Some- sum of $400,000 for development of the one has described a genius as a man who mine, notwithstanding the adverse reports can see just far enough ahead not to get of the various mining engineers already cold feet. But for the indomitable cour- mentioned—and then began the real de- age and the vision which inspired this velopment work which consumed another youngster who, at the age of 36, ten four years and which resulted in a com- years after his graduation from college, plete justification of the young man's es- became president of the greatest copper timate of the value of the property, and corporation in the world, there would an ignominious routing of all the mining have been no Kennecott Copper Corpora- experts who had so consistently stuck to tion, no Copper River Railway, no Alaska their opposition. Meanwhile the Copper Steamship Company, no town of Cor- River and Northwestern Railway had dova, no wild-eyed enthusiast like me been started, the tremendous obstacles to sounding the praises of a man I have which have been so graphically set forth never seen and probably never will. Yea by Rex Beach in his thrilling novel, "The verily—gentlemen : Iron Trail." It looked for a while as if A little romance in the heart, the enterprise might have to be aban- A little horse-sense in the head, doned owing to the frightful difficulties A little iron in the purpose : of successfully sinking bridge caissons in These three things will keep a man a glacier-fed river, with all the hazards of going in the world for as long as it is de- the breaking up of the ice in the Spring. cent for him to stay. It must have been Stephen Birch knew that the richest cop- some such man as Stephen Birch whom per mines in the world would be practi- Kipling had in mind when he gave to the cally valueless without the necessary world that matchless bit of verse, "The means of transportation from the mines Explorer :" to the seaboard, and so he made another "Week by week I pried and sampled— trip to New York in 1906, at which time Week by week my findings grew he convinced the Guggenheims that the Saul, he went to look for donkeys Copper River Railway should be com- And, by God, he found a kingdom ! pleted at all costs. Incidentally, he was But—by God, who sent His whisper instrumental in organizing the Kennecott I had struck the worth of two." Copper Corporation, in which the Gug- Romance ? Adventure ? genheim and Morgan interests became bet a $10 bill that in all the Croesus-like success the principal stockholders, and of which that has followed his footsteps, Stephen Stephen Birch, at the age of 36, was Birch never got the thrill that crinkled made president, which office he continues to hold to this day. his backbone on the day he convinced himself of the tremendous deposits of the Romance, indeed ! The Copper River Kennecott Mine and found the titles to Railway was completed, the formation of the seven claims which controlled it with- the Alaska Steamship Co. followed it and in his grasp. It's a dusty sort of romance the last stages of the development of what that follows on the heels of mere money- has proved to be the richest known cop- making. THE MID-PACIFIC 45

Though the romance of Alaskan gold world from the standpoint of accessibility strikes, stampedes, etc., is gone forever, and size, one of which—the Malaspina— along with the dance hall and the saloon, covers an area of 15,000 square miles— it must not be thought that her mineral the largest one in the world, in fact—in- resources are exhausted. Far, very far cluding the Columbia, the Taku, the Muir from it. Its well known tin deposits are and the Miles and Childs, all of which without equal throughout the North are visited annually by thousands of trav- American continent. Placer gold is still elers. That distance which lends en- present in great quantities and is being chantment also draws the veil across so mined by mammoth dredges, the small many marvels of which we have little or unit profit of which is overcome by tre- no knowledge. Few of us, I imagine, ap- mendous volume. Some of these dredges, preciate that the mighty Yukon river which cost $1,000,000 to construct, will which has its rise in the Yukon Territory. handle as high as io,000 cubic yards of is navigable for big river steamers 2200 gold-bearing dirt daily. Great develop- miles from its mouth in the Bering Sea ment companies with limitless capital and discharges almost as much water as will work over all the old diggings de- the Mississippi. In fact, one of the most serted by the old-time miner ; in fact, ideal trips through this wondrous land is operations have been going on for over to enter it from Skagway, at the head of a year. As you doubtless know, practi- navigation in the Inside Passage, journey cally all the ground in Alaska is frozen overland to White Pass and Dawson, from about three feet below the surface thence down the Yukon to Fairbanks and down to bed-rock, anywhere from io to south over the famed Alaska railroad, 20 feet. The melting of this frozen earth which carries the traveler into McKinley is accomplished by running cold water Park, and finally to the beautifully sit- through pipes driven into the ice, the uated town of Seward on Resurrection steady flow of which does greater work Bay, making a detour at Valdez for a than was formerly done by the more ex- motor journey through Keystone Canyon, pensive method of steam—after which one of the most magnificent on the North the dredger is put to work. It's the new American continent—thence into the Cop- era of efficiency which has driven gold- per River Valley, past the Miles and the mining romance into the background. Childs glaciers and to the little town of It may also surprise you to know that Cordova, where you may rejoin your steamer. Sounds like a guide book and there are over 12,000 square miles of coal-bearing lands in Alaska which, to- I accept the soft impeachment, for I did it with great joy last year and am going gether with a variety of other products of old Mother Earth, are awaiting the to do it again this summer. arrival of capital. With the salmon fish- From the standpoint of the sportsman, ing industry it is slightly different. Here I have reserved the best of the wine for we have an investment approximating the last of the feast. In respect to the $6o,000,000, involving the employment of wild game, Alaska is the "last frontier." 25,000 to 30,000 persons annually. Add The monster Kodiak or Alaska brown the seal fisheries and the fox farms and bear, which attains a weight of 1500 another million of dollars takes its place pounds and a length of 12 feet, is the on the credit side of the ledger every largest carnivorous animal on the face of year. the earth. Despite his tremendous weight After all is said and done, however, and size, he is as active and as quick as a Alaska's greatest asset is beauty. Her cat and when wounded a terrible antago- amazing mountain peaks, her tremendous nist. He will carry as much lead as an canyons and gorges, her limitless glaciers elephant and has been known to run 250 which are the most magnificent in the yards with a couple of bullets through 46 THE MID-PACIFIC

his heart before dropping dead. In that Kenai peninsula he attains a weight of last few moments he has taken more than over I Coo pounds, with an average spread one unfortunate hunter along with him of antlers of five feet. I was fortunate to his last account. No wise hunter, no enough to bag one of the largest and matter how expert a rifle shot he may be, most symmetrical moose heads that have ever tackles one of these gentlemen of ever been taken in Alaska last year, with the Alaska wilderness alone. There have a spread of 66 inches, palms 44 inches by been instances of the great "Brownie" i6 with 32 points and weighing 67 pounds making unprovoked attacks on man, but after the skull had been removed. they are exceedingly rare. Like all big The famous white mountain sheep, game, wherever found, the Kodiak will with their graceful,. curling horns, is also get away and keep out of trouble if he something the hunter dreams about, They can. But, if cornered, even a rat will are to be found only in Alaska and fre- fight. Two men, each armed with a quent the highest peaks, along with their high-powered rifle, are none too much second cousin, the mountain goat. Per- for the brown bear, and he must absolute- haps the easiest taken of all wild game ly be broken down by a shoulder shot is the caribou—rather a dull-witted beast or a cracked vertebra at the outset, even who migrates from north to south by if death does not ensue immediately, or— countless thousands in September, and look out for trouble. In addition to the offers an easy mark. And the antlers of brown, Alaska affords splendid hunting an old bull caribou are as desirable as for the grizzly, the black and the glacier those of the moose, although they do bear—the latter being found only in not attain to the same size. In very Alaska and Siberia. Alaska is the hunter's paradise, armed The Kenai moose is not only the larg- either with his rifle or his camera ; if est game animal on the Western Hem- truth, and minus all exaggeration, isphere, he is the also the biggest member he fails with the former, he makes it up of the deer family in the world. On the with the latter.

Alaska of today. Harvesting grains near Fairbanks.

THE MID-PACIFIC 47

Architecture at the Pan-Pacific Fair at San Diego that creates emulation.

ripup=punityp a„. TC711,71CJITCYMINUITCJITUITMVIICJITUTP7V71117,11VIT:AL7Ta.lwirw America's Future As Viewed From Japan By KIICHI KANZAKI MIYnnninuntIcArraini

It is interesting for Japan to consider separation from the economic policy of America's economic future. Its ..future its mother country. The cause of the must be considered from the economic second Anglo-American war was like- viewpoint, because all great historical wise economic. The anti-slavery move- events of that nation have arisen from ment was started from humanity, yet economic questions. the principal cause of the great civil war The immediate motive for the discov- was the economic disparity between the ery of America was economic. At that South and the North. This contention time Europe wanted to bring dye stuffs, is attested by the tariff policy. The war spices and jewelry from the East by the with Mexico and Spain was fought for shortest route. The colonial policy of economic reasons, and the American European nations in the new world was policy in the Far East was formulated directed by economic needs. The execu- for economic necessity. I have been a tion of economic policies based on na- student of America and American poli- tionalism required considerable gold and tics, and this study has enabled me to thus searches for colonies whence to im- see how America has attained its pres- port food and raw material and where to ent industrial status. sell manufactured goods. America According to the history of American sought independence principally for eco- industry, there are four periods of d-_-.vel- nomic reasons, since the development of opment. The first covers the time from industry herein pressed that nation for colonization to independence, when 48 THE MID-PACIFIC

The forests of America are disappearing before the woodman's axe. it is true, and the termite seems to get what is left, so that American builders must turn to artificial stone—concrete. THE MID- PACIFIC 49

America was governed by mercantilism from starvation. How and where then, of the mother country. The second pe- will America and Europe compete for riod is the time from independence to the the sale of products ? This is an inter- civil war. Independence enabled Amer- esting question. ica to formulate an economic policy of The increase of American population its own for its interest and to develop is rapid. It was 30,000,000 at the time its resources, but it should he observed of the civil war but has now risen to that the economic life was, during this 120,000,000. Despite the limitation of period, maintained chiefly by agricul- immigrants, population is rapidly in- ture. Manufacturing and migration to creasing. How will America handle the west coast began to develop in the this problem? America is now in the meantime, and the discovery of gold fourth period of economic development mines in California in 1848 directed. and that will continue for a long time. the attention of the Americans to the America is being flooded by dollars till Pacific coast. From the civil war to the nearly half the wealth of the world is world war is the third period. The said to be accumulated there. How will fourth period begins with 1914 and con- America use that extraordinary wealth? tinues down to the present. As long as capitalism is retained, capi- Farming America turned into a man- talists will be very powerful. How will ufacturer during the third period and they avail themselves of their influence? economic life was transformed funda- During the third period America trans- mentally. The frontier age came to the formed itself from a farmer into a man- end and undeveloped land became ufacturer with praiseworthy success in scarce. While almost unlimited land industrial revolution and consequently was available, the Americans were eco- is lording it over the rest of the world. nomic freemen, and this freedom was re- Natural resources, capital and motive sponsible for the growth of democracy. power are three requisites for industrial Farm workers could soon make them- development, and America is amply en- selves small land holders and their obe- dowed with the especially important dience to capitalists was not absolute. factors of capital and motive power. Meanwhile they saw the preservation of Roughly, natural resources can be as- resources necessary, and the realization sorted into three divisions—forestry, ag- of this necessity prevailed upon them to ricultural and mineral products. These limit immigrants. In the beginning of are all found in America. Statistical re- the present century President Roosevelt turns show that the population and ag- emphasized the conservation of natural ricultural output of that nation trebled wealth. A phenomenon of particular from 1850 to 1900, whereas manufac- importance is the complete transforma- tures have been multiplied by eleven tion of America into a manufacturing times during the same interval. Thus nation with an industrial output twice far America has attained industrial de- the size of Great Britain's and 50 per velopment with material obtained with- cent of that of all Europe. in its land limits, but however resource- Up to that time America was an ex- ful America may be, it cannot meet porter of food and raw material but has growing demand single-handed. As has since become a consumer, and will soon been pointed out, America is already in be in need of importing them. How and the age necessitating the conservation where America will get food and raw of natural resources. material and where to find markets for In consequence of the industrial rev- products are an important question. If olution, the nations of Europe were America deprives Europe of its manu- hard pressed to extend their territories facturing industry, America will die abroad. Overseas possessions of Great THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 51

Britain are put at 5,000,000 square American policies in the Far East. Mex- miles, those of France at 3,500,000 ico and Canada are too well known. square miles and Germany had American exports rose from $400,- 1,000,000 square miles beyond the sea, 000,000 to $8,600,000,000 and imports but in the interval America either culti- from $360,000,000 to $5,780,000,000 for vated undeveloped tracts of land in the 1860 to 1920. The excess of imports west or purchased land from other na- amounting to Yen 20,000,000 in 1850 tions to meet its necessities. Now that changed into the excess of exports the frontier age has gone, America will reaching $2,870,000,000 in 1920. Imme- have to acquire territory somewhere else diately after the civil war four-fifths of in the world. its exports were raw material and food, European nations resorted in invest- whereas refined manufactures were less ment abroad in order to facilitate the than one-tenth, but in 1920 the exporta- importation of raw material and the ex- tion of raw material and crude food portation of manufactures. The invest- dwindled to two-fifths and that of man- ment of France in foreign countries ufactures has increased to three-fifths. reached $8,000,000,000 in 1912, that of In the meantime the increase of import- Germany from $7,500,000,000 to $8,000,- ed raw material was astonishing. 000,000, and that of Great Britain Europe is still as important a market as amounted to $20,000,000,000 in the same in the past, but exports of America to year. These gigantic investments were Canada and Asia have increased rapid- responsible for imperialism. It is by no ly. The development of industry along means unusual that America with its with the plentiful supply of capital and marvellous development of industry par- machinery has made America a produ- ticipated in that movement. America cer of great quantities, and consequent was formerly a good field of investment changes in American markets will be for Europe. Up to 1839 European cap- conspicuous. Competition with Europe ital invested in America had amounted will become intense and struggle for the to $150,000,000, it rose to $400,000,000 supply of raw material as well as for in 1860 and stood at $5,000,000,000 to the expansion of markets in South $6,000,000,000 just before the world war. America and the Far East will become But America did not remain a debtor, intense. It is a matter of course that for it invested $1,000,000,000 in Mexico, Japan will take part in the struggle. $750,000,000 in Canada and $350,000,000 Great Britain and America are fighting in Europe. These investments totaled for investments in South America, and $2,500,000,000 in addition to capital sup- the development of their fighting is plied to other countries, yet up to 1914 worth careful attention. Japan, Great America was a debtor. Britain and America will be stout- The world war has made America a hearted contestants throughout all bus- great creditor having claims of $21,- iness fields in China. 000,000,000, and this extraordinary In examining America's economic re- credit has involved America in political lations with South America and the Far questions. Dr. John Bassett Moore East, we must see how the Pacific coast honestly states that the acquisition of and Southern States are developing territory is not a new habit with the their industries. Reverses in the civil Americans but has been their habit since war retarded the growth of Southern independence. This habit has become States by 40 or 50 years, yet they had conspicuous since 1898 in Latin States to develop their rich natural resources. and the Far East ; the Carribean Sea is The output of raw cotton, oil, coals, iron now an American lake and the Stars and and timber in great quantities has since Stripes are flying all over the Pacific. made those states economically influen- 52 THE MID-PACIFIC tial. Their position has become the principle of mass production and must more important by their proximity to discover good fields for investment of Mexico and South America and also by abundant gold. America is looking for communication with the East through localities offering means for the simul- the Panama Canal. Their rise will af- taneous solution of these questions. fect the capitalistic influence of North- Great Britain in its Dominions and pos- ern States on American politics. It sessions show a way but America has should be noted that the position of not adequate colonies. Territorial ag- capitalism along the Atlantic coast and gression is no longer feasible. Thus it in Northeastern States has become un- is seen that the only field open for Amer- tenable. ica will be the extension of its economic Forecast regarding the future of a na- sphere by investment and foreign policy. tion is a prophetic attempt beyond our Not infrequently America has had re- province. I have simply stated that eco- nomic life has fundamentally changed course to imperialism and its diplomatic in America under business influences, practice in the past can hardly be called and that questions arising therefrom will refined, but to do justice, it has retained have to be solved by America herself in some moral self-restraint due mainly to the future. America now finds the im- wealthy natural resources within its own portation of raw material becoming ever land limits. The safety of the Far East more necessary, must export manufac- is dependent on whether America will tures turned out conforming with the resort to might or to reason.

Salmon fishing is one of Nortlmest America's great industries. Will it be destroyed by waster THE MID-PACIFIC 53

Mr. Sun Fo, (center) son of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, who as well as his father was educated in Honolulu.

1-13.....KYOU..,IKIIRInCY17711VIICGT..711IIIIVITUITUITNICATCJIW.7111:71 In Memory of Sun Yat-Sen By GEORGE E. SOKOLSKY (Of the Pan-Pacific Club, Shanghai)

It was during the exciting days of the officials during the decade that I have Student Movement in 1919, that I met been reporting on men and events in Dr. Sun Yat-sen at his house on Route China, but few of them even approxim- Moliere in the French Concession of ated the magnetic appeal, the instant con- Shanghai. Dr. Sun was then living very viction of sincerity, the sturdiness of quietly, writing his book on the "Interna- character which elevated Dr. Sun above tional Development of China," which his his associates. Mr. Tong Shao-yi pos- wife was preparing for the press. His sesses perhaps a broader culture and a house was a Mecca for Chinese and f or- more human approach; Dr. Wu Ting- eigners, but in those days the foreigners fang was endowed with a keener sense of were few, because Dr. Sun was regarded humor and a greater worldliness of wit. by most of them as a man who had failed. But Dr. Sun was a dynamo. He breathed Only those who knew Dr. Sun Yat-sen action, force, fight. He turned every intimately can understand the tremendous friend into a disciple and even if one force of his personality and the spell doubted the practicality of some of his which his very name exercises over the programs, no one who knew him, could Chinese masses even at the present time. doubt that only a deep sense of patriotism I have met numerous Chinese leaders and inspired his every thought and motive. 54 THE MID-PACIFIC

The tower of St. Andrew's Church of England Cathedral, Honolulu, where Dr. Sun received his religious training while his studies were being pursued at Iolani School under the shadow of the tower. THE MID-PACIFIC 55

The house on Route Moliere was a called on Dr. Sun to ask him to use his sanctuary for an American, for it breathed good offices with the then acting French an American atmosphere. Mrs. Sun had Consul-General in Shanghai, so that the been educated in one of the Southern headquarters of the Students Union, Methodist colleges, and her home pos- which was in the French Concession, sessed the breadth of Southern taste and might remain open. Mr. Ho is now hospitality. The place of honor in the President of the Provisional Court in drawing room was devoted to a portrait Shanghai. The circumstances of Dr. Sun's of George Washington. meeting with Mr. Dih Kan are most in- In those days, Dr. Sun was more the teresting. Although there were all kinds philosopher than the politician and the of rumors that the Students Union had warrior. We often discussed his philoso- accepted funds from various political phic doctrines as they appear in the groups, actually there was not enough "Fundamentals of National Reconstruc- money in the treasury to pay the rent for tion" and in "Sun Wen's Philosophy." the headquarters. I spoke to Dr. Sun The doctrine that it is easier to do than about that and asked him if he could get to know often led to a discussion of prag- $300 for the Students. Dr. Sun replied matism, which was made all the more in- that he would give them this sum and teresting by the presence in China of Dr. asked me to send Mr. Dih Kan to see John Dewey and it was a delight to be in- him. The next day, we both called on Dr. troduced by Dr. Sun to the philosophy of Sun and the contact was established. Wang Yang-ming, of which I eventually Later, I understand, Mr. Dih became one found an English translation. of Dr. Sun's secretaries. Dr. Sun took the keenest interest in the Dr. Sun always had a fine admiration Student Movement. He had not come for the United States, but he could not into active contact with the younger stu- understand why Americans tended to sup- dents, who had been followers of Liang port his enemies, while he was fighting Chi-chao. The movement found its birth- all the time for constitutionalism, for that place in the Peking National University very type of government which Ameri- under the aegis of Dr. Hu Shih and Mr. cans regarded as the best. At that time, Chen Tu-shu. Mr. Liang Chi-chao was only three American journalists favored regarded by the intellectuals as China's Dr. Sun and his cause. They were Mr. most brilliant light and to them Dr. Sun George Bronson Rea, Mr. Nathaniel was more the political than the intellec- Peffer and myself. The others were tual leader. The Student's Movement, often vicious in their attacks, as one can however, aroused in the students a sense now read in their publications from 1919 of the necessity for direct political action. to 1925. In fact, as long as Dr. Sun At first, they avoided Dr. Sun as they did lived, most American journalists discre- all political parties because they feared dited him, it was only after his death and the effects of such complications upon when his cause had succeeded that they their movement. Eventually, however, the hopped upon the successful wagon. As students became the foundation upon forgiving as was his nature, the vile things which both the new Kuomintang and the said about him by these journalists often Communist Party of China were built. caused him to wonder, for he could not As I remember it, Dr. Sun first came understand any American could fail to into personal contact with the Students sympathize with and support his cause. Movement through Mr. Ho Shih-tsen, Sometimes journalists would misquote then President of the Shanghai Students him and once his agents in America Union and Mr. Dih Kan, President of forced an American magazine to with- the National Students Union. Mr. Ho draw something that a woman journalist 56 THE MID-PACIFIC

wrote about Mrs. Sun. Usually Dr. Sun Dr. Sun always feared Great Britain ignored personal attacks, just as he for- because he felt that Britain's possession gave personal enemies. It was his of Indian made it logically impossible for philosophy of life that knowledge was the British to support him or his move- hard to attain and that therefore most ment. Yet, he looked forward to Hong- men more naturally believed what it was kong's support of his efforts for the eco- easiest for them to absorb. The deeper nomic development of Kwangtung and and truer knowledge which required keen he turned to Great Britain for assistance study and a scientific mind was not for before the British and American refusal most people—therefore, he could forgive forced him into the arms of Soviet even one who fought against him. Russia. Both Eugene Chen and Morris Unlike most Chinese leaders, he bore Cohen, Dr. Sun's A.D.C., can testify to his enmities so lightly, that once when I the fact that Dr. Sun made a strong effort asked him why he took a certain general to obtain British instructors and advisors back into the fold, he replied that as long before he accepted Russian assistance. as a man declared that he accepted his Of his dealings with Russia I know principles, he could not reject his alleg- very little. He was once elected Honorary iance. There was, however, one excep- President of the Chinese Peasants and tion. Dr. Sun looked with deep disdain Laborers' Soviet in Moscow and I was upon those former Kuomintang young in his house when the cable arrived in men—same of the "Young China" Group French via London announcing his ap- of 1911, who turned from him to sup- pointment. There was, during 1919- port various northern militarists, and 1920, in Shanghai, a brilliant Russian whose activities made Dr. Sun's contacts linguist, Mr. Popoff, who was studying with foreign powers more difficult. He conditions here. Popoff knew Chinese, called these men traitors. Once when I Japanese, Korean and Mongolian lan- argued that one of these men was of guages and numerous dialects. He spent service to China, Dr. Sun showed anger, most of his time reading newspapers in which was rare with him in those days these languages. He met Dr. Sun on when his attitude seemed to be that even several occasions when I was present but Tuan Chi-jui could be accepted if he I heard nothing of a political nature. acknowledged his principles. After his conversation with M. Joffe, the Dr. Sun was no enemy of the Japanese Russian contact was moved to Canton people. He often spoke of his days in and naturally I could know nothing, from Yokohama and Kobe, of his friendships, direct personal experience, about that. particularly with Mr. Toyama, Mr. When I arrived in Shanghai in 1919, I Yukio Osaki, Mr. Innukai, the father- had spent a year in the North after hav- in-law of Mr. Yoshizawa, and Baron Shi- ing witnessed the most stirring days of busawa. He suspected the policies of the the Russian Revolution in Petrograd. Japanese militarists and in 1920 wrote a Dr. Sun was keenly interested in the de- letter to General Tanaka appealing to tails of this situation. He wondered him, as the head of the Japanese army, to always why others succeeded in their stop supporting the enemies of constitu- revolutionary activities while China tionalism in China. He always looked failed. He always emphasized the "will forward to Japanese public opinion to of the people," and he insisted that no overcome his antagonists in Japan and movement, no military effort could possi- if he died without realization of this bly succeed in China, which ignored the ambition, it is nevertheless a fact that, at "will of the people." In an interview he the present time, public opinion in Japan once gave me on this subject, he said: is favorable to his cause. "My attitude toward the Peking gov- THE MID- PACIFIC 57 ernment is the same as my attitude to- it difficult for a non-Russian' foreigner to ward other factions in China. The most see him. Then he died on March 12, pressing matter before the Chinese peo- 1925, curiously enough on the same day ple today is the unification of China and the same city as died my closest behind one central government which friend in China, Roy Anderson. shall function in accordance with laws In 1926 I visited Canton and experi- and the will of the people. It is only enced the religious significance of the unification achieved on this basis that personality of Sun Yet-sen. The follow- can protect the people and prove to the ing description was written immediately world that the Chinese are sincere in after witnessing a Monday weekly their efforts to establish a modern and service : effective government capable of handling, "It is Monday morning. The work of independently, the problems confronting a new week is to commence. At the a modern state. Whampoa Academy, the Central Execu- "All factions in China will eventually tive Committee, the Kuomintang branches, have to adopt this program and signifi- every barrack, every army in the field, cant progress has, within the last year among boy and girl scouts, in every Gov- (1922), been made in this direction. ernment office, men and women stand Many of the militarists who hitherto re- bare-headed waiting for the presiding garded themselves as supreme and above officer to call the meeting to order. the constitution and Parliament might "The gavel is struck against the table. curry public favor by declaring them- The room, the camping grounds, the selves the protectors of both. assembly hall and office are in profound "When I returned from Canton the silence. Together in harmony heads are word went forth that I was defeated and bowed three times before the picture of discredited. My opponents did not un- Dr. Sun Yat-sen. Then his last will and derstand that Sun Yat-sen does not testament is read, the statement of a dying matter but that his ideals and principles man to his followers. No one whispers or can not be defeated or discredited, and even dares to cough as the oft-repeated that the present situation in Canton is words of the dead leader are pronounced. only another indication of the insistence Then there is a three-minute silence for of the Chinese people that these shall be self-examination and revelation, for con- realized. My desire is to unify the whole sideration of the doctrine and the self- of China." determination of fitness for participation Even in this cursory sketch it is im- in the work of the Kuomintang. After possible to omit mention of Dr. Sun's the silence, reports are read as regards wife. Mrs. Sun's personal charm, her the work of the party and the activity all-pervading sweetness, her keen sense of the particular group attending the of justice and her unselfish devotion to service. "the Doctor" brought to her the affection of all his friends. One sometimes won- "Nowhere in China have I witnessed ders how much of this greatness is due to any gathering of Chinese so emotional, her inspiration and the strength that yet so peaceful and profound, as at the comes from the love and support of a ceremony of the reading of the will on great and good woman. Monday morning. I saw such a ceremony I never saw Dr. Sun after 1923. The once in Shanghai, when a memorial serv- attacks upon him by the foreign press, ice was held for Dr. Sun at West Gate, the attempt to prevent him from landing but it was tawdry and chaotic. In Can- in Shanghai, and the presence of Boro- ton, every moment of the silence breathed din and other Russians on his staff, made a new atmosphere, reminding one of the 58 THE MID-PACIFIC

tremendousness and strength of the peo- was moved to sympathy and friendship ple of China and the heart-breaking dif- for those about him. Such is the heritage ficulties facing those who would win for of Sun Yat-sen. Therein lies the full her national greatness, and for her people significance of Sun Yat-sen. He has be- racial equality. Even the casual visitor, come in death even a greater and more not a member of the Kuomintang, even a powerful leader than he was in life." foreigner in a city where now foreigners The Kuomintang today may not be are perhaps not always welcome, was what is was in 1926. The Party may moved. He also bowed his head three have degenerated because of the prev- times. He also listened to the reading of alence of militarism and the absence of monosyllables which he did not under- really great leaders, but the spirit of Dr. stand. He also stood in silence and rev- Sun Yat-sen lives on. Out of this spirit erence. He also found peace and thought alone can come the new and greater in the three minutes of silence. He also China.

Hr. C. K. Ai of Honolulu, a lifelong friend and backer of Dr. Sun. He is a vice-president of the Pan-Pacific Union. THE MID-PACIFIC 59

His Excellency, Hon. Herbert Marler, Canadian Minister to Japan (standing in the center). addressing the Pan-Pacific Club of Osaka.

Canada's Mission in Japan Address of Mr. Herbert Marler, New Canadian Minister to Tokyo, at the Osaka Pan-Pacific Club IC"\WiraMinnirCytniaillnanaatrAitriiinlie

The generosity of your welcome to this building of this great port—the erection great city of Osaka makes me appreciate of this magnificent city—the furnishing all the more my good fortune in having of it with its industrial activity—and been appointed by our gracious sovereign making it as you have made it the fifth as His Majesty's minister for Canada to largest city of the whole world and a the court of your illustrious ruler His Im- centre of art and cultivation—may I be perial Majesty the Emperor of Japan. permitted on behalf of the country I rep- That good fortune is all the more in- resent to express not only my unbounded creased by reason of the opportunity you admiration for your courage, energy and have given me today of examining under resource but also my ardent hope that the the most favorable circumstances this great advances you have so far made in great and growing metropolis of one of the cause of enlightenment and progress the most enlightened and cultivated peo- may long be continued with equal, and ples the world has yet produced. To me if it is possible, with even greater pros- that has been a great privilege. perity, in the future. To you, responsible as you are for the Some may say that these expressions (4) THE MID-PACIFIC

ir he t ke ma

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ca he t ity, C ia tor ic V THE MID- PACIFIC 61

I am permitted to make are expressed Canada one of your most illustrious sons, in those terms which might ordinarily be Mr. Iyemasu Tokugawa and you will be expected of one who has enjoyed your glad to hear that his reception by my hospitality. They may be ordinary it is people has been hailed with that delight true. You may have heard these senti- which his great rank and ability fully ments frequently before. But if you have justify. He, I am certain, will make heard them before may I say that they known in Canada the virtues which I have never been expressed with greater well know his people to possess. My sincerity,—because Canadians do not part among you is to impart a better speak in other terms. They are all the knowledge of the country I represent and more sincere because we of Canada have by those means to cement our friendship learned from our own experience to com- and increase trade between us. In other mend those who by their ability, industry words, my mission is both political and and courage have overcome difficulties— commercial. Permit me to explain what and who in their own country have cre- those terms signify : ated and constructed something of which As you well know the activities of the they may well be proud. You of Japan modern state fall into two great divisions under the guidance, enlightenment and —internal or domestic affairs—and ex- beneficent influence of your Emperor and ternal or foreign affairs. Today I am his illustrious predecessors have done all dealing with our foreign affairs in so far this. You look back with pride and as they fall within the scope of my mis- thanksgiving that you have been privi- sion. Foreign affairs in turn are roughly leged to see your country advance to the divided under two main headings—the proud position it occupies in the world first called "political" in which are in- today by reason of their wisdom and the cluded such matters as international lessons they have imparted and have agreements, principally designed to taught you. We of Canada, in perhaps a establish peace ; the making of alliances more modest way, likewise look back with providing for arbitration and generally pride to what our ancestors have done for the conduct of formal relations with for- us and with thanksgiving that they di- eign states—and the second division is rected our progress into the paths which called "commercial" or "administrative" have brought us prosperity, a united matters—such as relate among others to people, and a status in the world of the regulation of trade flowing between which we are justly proud. There are, two countries. As I have said, my mis- therefore, I am happy to say, similarities sion to Japan embraces as to the foreign in the progress of your country and my affairs of Canada matters which are both own—and may I also say, ideals which political and commercial in the sense are held in common between us—all of that I have described those terms. which should promote between our respec- The first question you will therefore tive peoples not only better knowledge ask me to explain is why does Canada of one another—not only greater friendli- as one of the nations of the British com- ness if that is possible—hut also those monwealth concern herself with political increased commercial relations which are affairs in reference to foreign relations? so helpful in encouraging that knowledge Why does she do so now when up till and friendliness to which I have alluded. recently she has not done so in the past? It was with those objects in view that Why when she has previously delegated our respective sovereigns decided in their the regulation of those affairs to Great wisdom to appoint ministers to my Britain and her representatives does she country and to your own. Your sov- now undertake the regulation of those af- ereign has sent to represent him in fairs herself ? 62 THE MID-PACIFIC

Those questions are answered in gen- To explain what I have said more am- eral terms by saying that Canada in for- ply, to convey to you the reason why mer times was merely a crown colony this acquisition of nationhood as the part having no power even as to the regulation of Canada (and of other countries of the of its own domestic affairs.—From that British Empire or better of the British status but by slow degrees it progressed Commonwealth as the former Empire is to that of a self-governing dominion now termed) has led to the greater cohe- with the power of entirely managing its sion and the greater loyalty of its varied own domestic affairs—it later on ac- parts to our common sovereign there is quired the right of regulating in part its one outstanding factor which must be commercial affairs abroad—and finally understood and which is the very foun- achieved the right of regulating its po- dation of our whole structure. litical affairs abroad. That factor is simply this that all who have been reared under British institu- You will observe the stages of develop- tions and who are imbued with British ment. First that of childhood then that traditions look upon liberty in the reg- of youth—finally that of manhood. While ulation of their own affairs as their right, in childhood and youth we gladly dele- not to be alienated or disputed. That gated the regulation of our foreign af- consciousness is uppermost in every Brit- fairs to our Mother-Country and to her ish nation—where it has been denied there we will ever owe a debt of gratitude for has been difficulty and dissatisfaction. her great services to us in that respect. Where it is admitted and employed there But when we attained manhood or nation- has been greater loyalty and greater unity. hood in all that that term implies not only It was for entire admission of this because it was our duty in our own in- right that Canada persisted over a period terests but also because it was unfair to of a hundred and fifty years. Not ex- the Mother-Country to ask her to bear pecting the goal to be achieved at once that part of our burden any longer we but gradually and as circumstances war- then took over as a commencement in ranted—and through all that period of certain countries, of which Japan is one, our history you will find that the more the entire direction of our foreign affairs. freedom we were given the more de- In other words by a long process of train- voted to the common interests of the Em- ing and experience we had sought and pire we became,—the more loyal to our gained nationhood and having attained common King. it we must assume as we can assume its responsibilities. We claimed the right that British subjects living on the soil of England or But this term nationhood as I apply of Canada were fellow subjects and en- it to Canada is most confusing to some. titled to be looked upon as equal in every They ask does this mean nationhood in way. the fullest sense that term implies and It was this attitude of mind and spirit if so does it not indicate a division of the that gradually with little or no friction British Empire into separate parts ? It and by common consent brought about does mean nationhood in the fullest sense the transformation from the former Brit- of the term but it in no way implies di- ish Empire to the present British Com- vision in the Empire or separation from monwealth of Nations. The Colonies it. Indeed quite contrary instead of di- and then the Dominions of the former vision it has led to greater cohesion. In- Empire passed their respective periods of stead of the separation it has increased childhood and then of youth and became the loyalty of its component parts to the equal nations. The former Empire had whole. You ask me to explain this some- more of the nature of centralization of what more amply. power—more of the nature of reliance THE MID-PACIFIC 63 of its component parts on a central will use every effort to promote its unity authority. and every effort to cultivate the most The new Commonwealth has less cen- friendly relations between the Common- tralization of power and far more of the wealth and the rest of the world. nature of self-reliance of its several parts Subject to our duty as citizens and the and is based on 'terms of equality as to Commonwealth we will promise between every nation forming part of it,—all seek- ourselves and other nations the best of ing common aspiration and all owing al- political relations and use our best en- legiance to the same and equally loved deavours to increase our commercial deal- Sovereign. You will observe th2 differ- ings with them. ences. You will observe the more Brit- Some have said not to place commer- ish in quality the Commonwealth has be- cial relations first and political relations come as compared to the former Empire. second. Surely that is not the correct You will particularly notice the equali- method of approach. How is it possible ty of Canada and the nations which com- to have good commercial relations unless pose the Commonwealth. You will there- there is first of all entire confidence be- fore recognize at once that the Common- tween Canada and Japan ? How is it pos- wealth possesses those very attributes and sible to have that confidence between us qualities and thus clothes every nation unless there is the best and most friendly comprised in it with those very attri- political relations ? Any other reason- butes and qualities which they have eager- ing is unsound. To build in any other ly sought from time immemorial. way means building on a temporary and Is it not therefore the truth to say that an unsafe foundation. Satisfactory com- the new Commonwealth makes for cohe- mercial relations must depend on satis- sion and not for division? That it has factory and friendly political relations. led to contentment and hence as has been There is no other way we can proceed. shown by the history of every nation to Fortunately Canada and Japan are in greater desire' for unity and greater the most happy position of having the loyalty to a common Sovereign, to com- best of political relations existing be- mon ideals ? tween them and it will be my first duty This great Commonwealth consequently to see that those relations continue and is composed of free and equal nations of that the entire confidence of the govern- Great Britain (who speaks for herself ment and people of this country is re- and for a great mass of dependencies in tained. In my efforts to continue that various stages of political growth but not happy state of affairs those in Japan may yet self-governing Dominions) of Canada, always be assured, as I do now assure Newfoundland, Australia, New Zealand, them, that Canada will never resort to South Africa and the Irish Free State. subterfuge or to insincerity. What I Each of these nations are free to reg- may say for my country or about my ulate those affairs at home and abroad country will be the truth and without which are their peculiar concern. As to evasion of any kind. That my people ex- common affairs, that is, affairs concern- pect. On that Japan may always depend. ing the Commonwealth as a whole they We hope that by the retention of your serve in concert and by means of joint confidence and by the name of Can- consultation. Of these nations I speak ada and what we produce in Canada be- for Canada in Japan. Canadians have coming better known among you, we will therefore a dual personality—one as citi- be able to increase trade between our two zens of the Commonwealth—the other as countries and that to our mutual advan- citizens of Canada. tage. You have demonstrated beyond the As citizens of the Commonwealth our slightest doubt your position as one of attitude of mind is clear and distinct. We the great powers of the world. You by 64 THE MID-PACIFIC

The approach from the Straits to Victoria City.

the courage, industry and energy of your will not only increase our trade but your people—by your thirst for education of own also. the highest class—by your ability to ab- Canada is a country of very varied pro- sorb technical knowledge—have made the duction, of excellent transportation fa- most astonishing and astounding progress. cilities. She has made astonishing pro- You produce much which we cannot pro- gress in production and will make even duce. We produce much which we can greater progress in the future. You will sell to you and which will not injure your not therefore be buying from a market or industries but on the contrary aid in in- source of supply which will be uncertain. creasing their production. Are not our You can be certain of a continuous supply positions therefore complementary in such of what you need. You can be positive manner that we can be of reciprocal ad- of fair treatment. You can be certain as vantage to one another ? to quality. You can depend on low prices His Excellency your Minister to Can- compatible with the quality of commodity ada will tell my people how we can aid which you demand. you in purchasing those commodities Some of our products appeal to you which you can produce in such great more than others. Those which have ap- abundance. May he have all success and pealed to you are what to us are natural I hope we will by his efforts greatly in- products. The production of our soil, our crease our purchases from Japan. forest, the mine or the sea. From our It is my role to tell you what we pro- soil we can supply you with wheat, wheat flour and grains. duce and hence I hope to excite your in- terest to purchase even more freely from From our forests we can supply you with logs, piling, planks and lumber of us in the future—remembering if I may all kinds, as well as wood-pulp and paper. remind you of it the happy relations From our mines we can supply you with which have always existed between our aluminum, lead, nickel, zinc, copper and respective countries. By doing so you asbestos. THE MID-PACIFIC 65

From our fisheries we can send you face of her vast deposits of minerals. fish of many kinds dried or salted. This is Parts of my country which only a few only a small list of what we can provide. years ago were regarded as waste land I will deal later in these remarks with are now worth incalculable value. We what we propose to do in order to give now produce 90% of the nickel, 85% of you further information as to many other the asbestos, 55% of the cobalt, 9% of commodities in which you may be inter- the gold, nearly 9% of the lead, over 8% ested. of the silver, and over 6% of the zinc and I said a moment ago that you could 4% of the copper of the whole world. depend on the source of your supply. All this with our small population. Our This is essential as I well know so to ability to produce is not to be measured prove that assertion I will tell you some- in quantity produced because we have an thing of the progress of our production inexhaustible amount only waiting on the in the commodities I have alluded to. I hand of man to take it from the mine. will take the official figure. Our progress in this respect can be mea- As to wheat few realize that as short sured in value when I tell you that as late a time ago as 1871 Canada did not pro- as 1886 the value produced of our min- duce enough wheat to feed her then popu- erals was only $11,000,000. In 1927 it lation of three and a half million souls. was $240,000,000. Among these minerals In 1900, or less than thirty years ago we I mentioned lead and zinc. produced only 55 million bushels. Now If any desire to see these minerals pro- we produce on the average of over 400,- duced by the most modern means they 000,000 bushels. have only to visit the great Sullivan mine Our dairy industry, being another de- at Kimberley, B.C. owned by one of our pendent on the soil—in 1870 the value greatest mining companies, the Consoli- of its production was $15,000,000. The dated Mining and Smelting Company. value of that product now exceeds $240,- There they will see what probably is the 000,000. most modern mine in the world. They Another industry depending on agri- can follow the whole process from mine culture is our slaughtering and meat to finished product. packing industry. In 1871 the value of They can see the concentrates prepared the products from that industry was less at Kimberley, placed in railroad cars than $3,800,000. Its value now is nearly which are shipped by rail and water to $165,000,000. the great smelter at Trail and there con- I spoke of our forest products. In these verted into the finished product. A pure- our progress is remarkable also. In lumber ly Canadian industry, operated by Can- our products in 1871 were valued at $31,- adians under the leadership of Mr. S. C. 000,000. In 1927 their value was $134,- Blaylock, one of the greatest mining en- 000,000. gineers produced not only in Canada but Another industry dependent on our in the world. forests and waterpowers is our pulp and And then I mentioned the products of paper industry. This industry was un- our fisheries. Their value in 1870 was known in 1871. As late as 1881 our pro- less than $7,000,000. Their value is now duction was valued at less than $64,000. nearly $50,000,000. Now the annual value of the products Permit me to draw all these threads from this industry alone is over $200,- together and say one word with respect 000,000 per year. to our trade in general. As you know But perhaps none of our industries has there is nothing which shows the progress the glamour or shows more remarkable of a nation more than its external trade. development than that of our mines. As Including as that trade does what we pur- it is Canada has barely scratched the sur- chase from abroad by way of imports, 66 THE MID-PACIFIC thus showing our purchasing power— you. Also information as to Canadian and what we sell abroad by way of ex- products is now in process of preparation. ports, thus showing our productive power This information will be given wide pub- over our own necessities. licity and be renewed from time to time. What has been our progress in this Before I resume my seat may I ex- respect in less than the last thirty years. press publicly to the Press of this coun- In 1900 our aggregate external trade was try my very deep appreciation for the less than 360 million dollars—today it is kindly interest it has ever taken in Can- over 2,650 million dollars. In less than adian affairs. More than that may I ex- thirty years we have increased our trade press to it my personal thanks for the by 2,300 million dollars. generous treatment it has personally given I mentioned earlier in these remarks me. Its courtesies in these respects will what to do to give the people of Japan not be forgotten and may I also with greater information as to our products. every respect commend the Government Let me say in that respect that the Can- for the reduction made in press cable adian Legation in Japan will be organ- despatches and express the hope that as ized on business lines and conducted upon soon as possible substantial reduction will like lines for the benefit of trade relations be made as to commercial messages. between Japan and Canada. I am convinced that my people and The Canadian Legation is new in your those of Japan desire greater trade. No- midst. Those in charge are not, how- thing would facilitate this more than ever, altogether new to business dealings cheaper means of communication by cable or to business methods. Nor is the Com- or wireless. If we cannot communicate mercial Secretary of the Legation, Mr. with one another quickly than we cannot James A. Langley who is in charge of trade quickly—and if we cannot do that commercial matters, either new to busi- then business is bound to suffer. ness methods or new to you. For myself I feel confident that a reduction in and speaking for the Government of Can- business cable and wireless rates will not ada I consider myself and the Govern- reduce profits for the operating companies ment I serve particularly fortunate in but will vastly increase the volume of having Mr. Langley associated with me. trade. The advantages of increased trade To him Canada owes much as I do my- between us are in my opinion so import- self for the excellent manner in which he ant that in my humble judgment every has served his country in the past, and facility should be accorded to attain that may I also say that I think the people of end. Japan are fortunate also in knowing there I hope the length of this address does is under his supervision matters peculiar not exceed my welcome. If it does I beg to the trade between our respective coun- of you to believe that it has been due to tries. In him you may depend on the the opportunity of meeting so distinguish- best of service being certain of his en- ed a company as is here today—and the deavours to promote your interests as opportunity thus afforded me of address- well as our own. ing leaders of industry in this great Em- It will be seen to that the Canadian Le- pire between which and my country may gation continues to be conducted on busi- there never be else than mutual confi- ness lines and with the object of being dence, the best of relations and success for of assistance to our producers and to both. THE MID-PACIFIC 67

The perfect volcanic cone. Mayon, in the Philippines.

4 • • • Itti ',Att, • 117-,r1,1:2.nkL-IIK2,11,0-._ ,,,, _ 4,3v • • • •‘14.• . Lti ria The Beauty of Mayon LI By ROBERT SINGG 4 KI (Of Inter-Ocean Staff) 14 --nizimniint,----wimyinr=nraini- inuninnr k_

Projecting to the southwest and pend- conducive to prosperity than one-crop ing by a narrow isthmus, the Bicol region agriculture which obtains elsewhere on furnishes a tail to the Island of Luzon. Luzon. The Bicol region is one of the The inhabitants, like the great majority most beautiful parts of the Philippines on Luzon are Christian Malays, but here and travelers report that only there do speak related dialects called collectively the Philippines rival the natural beauty Bicol, from which the region gets its of Java. The Bicolandia is more vol- name. It is divided into four provinces canic than the rest of the Philippine Albay, Sorsogon and North and South archipelago, each of its provinces having Camarines. These provinces are the more or less active volcanoes. Mayon, richest on Luzon due partly to their rich in Albay province near the town and port soil and also to the more favorable of I,egaspi, is one of the notable volcanoes climatic conditions prevailing, and better of the world. It rises directly from the distributed rainfall. These factors per- sea to a height of 8,000 feet perfectly mit the diversified agriculture of hemp, symmetrical on all sides. From the deck coconuts and rice which is always more of the approaching steamer, the whole 68 THE MID-PACIFIC

Everywhere the Filip THE MID-PACIFIC 69

Bicol region seems dominated by that crater, lighting up the cloud banks with god-like mountain, the most perfect large a sulfurous glow while the flying rocks volcanic cone in the world. Nor is this make a fountain of fire falling on all far from the truth, as from Naga, Cama- sides. rines Sur to the north almost to Sorso- Due to the topography of the moun- gon to the south this superb mountain is tain most of these stones are collected never out of sight on a clear day. into slides, many of which join in one From the top of the peak the entire huge glacier of fire that has now reached region is spread out like a map. From the the base of the volcano and seems about deck of the approaching steamer one can to continue clown the lesser slopes until it see lower Albay sloping up from the reaches the sea. This slide, smoking by depths of the sea in a perfect catenary to day and glowing by night, is another of the lofty heights of this matchless cone. the magnificent aspects of this eruption. Its majesty is now fittingly crowned by a It is safe to climb about half way up the vast plume of smoke and vapor that pours mountain side along the slide, and to do from its crater. In July the mountain so is an experience of a lifetime. This was dwarfed and indeed completely cov- slide proves to be a great mass of smok- ered by a dense cloud of volcanic smoke ing, smouldering rocks piled to the height and ash, which the ship's master com- of a hundred feet—towering high above puted by instruments to be eight miles in the retaining walls of the ravine down height. The day was calm and this black, which it flows. The immense pressure of dense cloud of smoke and ash, steam and the slide is constantly breaking up still compressed gases emerged from the top more the larger boulders composing it, of the mountain like smoke under pres- which fall and roll to the bottom. The sure from 'an immense funnel. As it whole mass moves downward at an esti- climbed straight in the air, the dense ma- mated speed of three feet an hour. By terial, being released from the pressure, night the sight is well worth the cold and expanded by unrolling into fantastical hardship suffered by spending a night at forms, the black color changing into this altitude. The mass which smoulders brown and grey shades. Upon approach- by day glows at night. The breaking ing closer we could see large stones being boulders expose their interiors still red- thrown from the top. The vast size of hot. Then the eruptions every three or the mountain renders these eruptions of four hours bring fresh glories into view. gigantic stones harmless, as they fall on From so close a vantage point the rum- the high desert slopes of the mountain bles and growls of the volcano's activity, and slide down. It is a spectacular sight which from Legaspi sound like the steady by day, but at night the effect is of a peal of distant thunder, from here sound grander aspect, for the rocks are incan- grim and terrifying, coming from the ac- descent with heat. By night the clouds tivity directly below. The enormous leap- of smoke are not so clear, but the most ing flames from the crater, with their marvelous effect imaginable is produced lurid gleam against the banks of volcanic by the great rocks being thrown from the smoke, as well as the gigantic showers of crater and sliding clown the sides of the brightly burning rocks is magnificent, if mountain, breaking into fragments in their awful. The most gorgeous display of all career, producing by their incandescence is furnished by these incandescent rocks a pyrotechnic display that is awe inspiring. as they conic down the slides, many of Red-hot boulders as large as houses fly them going to the bottom and causing out by hundreds and dwarf to insignifi- forest fires when they come in contact cance any fireworks produced by man. with the woods below. It is a glorious Blazes shoot from the interior of the toboggan of fire as they careen down the 70 THE MID-PACIFIC

slide, grinding off the cooled portions of the discharge of smoke was greater and the old rocks, and expose the hot interiors we were able to see a faint glow from the in a trail of fire flashing in their wake. interior of the volcano, caused apparently The history of this beautiful, graceful, by burning sulphur within, reflected on almost feminine mountain is grim and the cloud banks. The volcano was climbed terrible. In historic times since 1615 at this time by Mr. J. W. Wiley, who re- twenty-eight eruptions are recorded. ported pools of burning sulphur within Most of these are not as well described the crater. On June 24th that discharge as that of 1814, one of the most destruc- of smoke, dust and gas became alarming tive, which destroyed several towns, in- to the natives about the volcano, and there cluding an old town near the present could be no doubt that Mayon was in town of Daraga. Twelve hundred lives eruption. were lost in this catastrophe that engulfed On June 27th, the first incandescent the entire town, leaving as a grim re- material was shot from the crater, and on minder the half-buried walls of the church June 28th, the rumbling of the volcano —the tomb of hundreds trapped by the spread new terror among the native popu- collapsing roof. One must inspect the lation, who fled from the locality, leaving ruins closely to ascertain that they are whole towns deserted. These have been really the handiwork of man, for Nature, deserted for more than a month. Con- as though in effort to erase the ugly scars fidence is slowly coming back due to the of her anger, has covered the walls and able efforts of the native, provincial gov- church tower with a tree which almost ernor, Sr. Locsin, as well as Father Selga, miraculously grows out of the very walls. the priest-scientist of the Philippines, a Clearly engraved in the memories of Jesuit in charge of the Manila Observa- living people are the eruptions of 1897 tory, a scientific institution famous and 1900. The latter, which occurred throughout the world, and now the head- during the American occupation, is vivid- quarters of the government weather bu- ly recalled by many old soldiers still liv- reau, also under his direction. ing in the locality. On the night of the On July 2nd W. B. Allen climbed to greatest activity, when detachments of the top with three expert native moun- soldiers were encamped on its base, a vast taineers as guides. Allen reported from column, a fiery mass of burning rock, the the top that the inside could be seen as core of the volcano, rose to a height of a boiling mass of sulphurous rock, accom- almost a mile—and then disintegrated panied by a heavy discharge of volcanic into a fountain of fire that needs must smoke. The noise was described by him beggar all description. In these eruptions as like that of a heavy artillery bombard- a hot and searing ash was erupted which ment. The last climb to be made was by caused terrible suffering to all so unfor- Mr. P. C. Blunt, who gained the top with tunate as to come into contact with it. two guides. He saw the inside of the crater between eruptions because the fly- There are still people in the region whose ing rocks during the eruptions would bodies bear great scars caused by this make close approach suicide, and reported hot ash. that between eruptions the top of the The recent activity of Mayon was crater seemed to be caked over, the cooling noted by the author. Wisps of steam, masses of molten material solidifying easily to be mistaken for clouds, were oc- like a freezing lake separated by ridges of casionally seen, and then a month or so rocks. The perils of his feat were shown later a clearly defined but small plume of on his return when he lost consciousness smoke was discernible. This grew until and slipped down the steep mountain he saw it extend to a length of fourteen about 500 feet before being stopped by kilometers. About the middle of June collision by a large rock. His guides did THE MID- PACIFIC 71 a notably brave thing in carrying the of the destructive effects of the recent badly lacerated, bruised and bleeding eruption of Mayon, and the volcanic ash white man down the steep sides to the borne here by the wind has killed prac- bottom. Considering the steep terrain and tically all vegetation. Even the trees are the slight stature of the Filipinos it was without foliage, a strange sight in a a feat distinguished by its bravery and tropical country. The hemp is complete- hardihood. ly parched and killed by the ash. The At the foot of the mountain abounds coconut trees are dying, the leaves becom- a beautifully variegated countryside. The ing withered and spotted. Just out of town of Legaspi, named for the Spaniard Daraga on the left one sees one of the who began the conquest and settlement of prettiest of waterfalls, especially in the the Philippines, is the chief business and rainy season when a torrent of water shipping point for the Bicol region. Ships dashes madly over the broken stones of from America call here for shipments of its falls. Ligao is one of the important copra, and most of the region's hemp of the inland towns and boasts excellent leaves this port for Manila. The better school, government and business houses. residential districts of this commercial The trip from Ligao to Tabaco is one center are in the separate towns of Albay, of the loveliest of the whole region. The also the provincial capital, and Daraga, country is more hilly and rugged and not which are only a couple of kilometers damaged by the eruption. Parts of it are from Legaspi. Between Albay and Da- not under cultivation, causing the road to raga, is Camp Daraga, the old U. S. penetrate through primeval jungle. One military camp, now transformed into ci- crosses the divide, which is the backbone vilian residences surrounded by a beautiful of the Island of Luzon, running from parked quadrangle now a golf course. north to south the entire length of the The provincial high school faces one end Island. Before sweeping up to the lofty of this green, and the government hos- heights of Mayon the divide is compara- pital is nearby. The town of Daraga tively low at this point. Now one looks itself nestles around the fine, old Catholic up a high hill, and again clown into a deep church which sits like a fortress on a gorge, while always on the right Mayon steep hill. It is one of the finest old struc- sweeps up in a perfect arc. At one point tures in the province—the old church in along this road a path has been cut Tabaco being perhaps the only better through a hill to a vantage place where monument to the dreams and heroic the best view of the volcano is obtainable. hardihood of the Catholic padres to whom From here one looks over a deep gorge the Philippines owe their religion and so and then straight up to the top of the much of their civilization. mountain with its small cone, now eject- Like a girdle around a goddess are ing vast clouds of smoke and ashes, that grouped about the base of Mayon, the hang in the still air like something almost solid before slowly resolving themselves principal towns of the province of Albay. into fantastical forms. The main road makes roughly an equilat- eral triangle of 27 kilometers on a side Tabaco, the southern terminus of the connecting Legaspi to Pigao, and, behind Manila Railway, is the second city of the the volcano, Ligao to Tabaco. From Da- province, and has the best and most pro- raga the road skirts the foot of the vol- tected bay, the nearby island of San cano over a sharp spur of the mountain Miguel stretching almost across the through Camalig and Guinobatan to mouth. The old church of Tabaco is a Ligao. Normally this trip is through a delightful pile. Its tower with the stair- green and smiling countryside, but now way leading to the top conveniently placed this particular locality has borne the brunt on the outside, is the place to get the best 72 THE MID-PACIFIC view of the town. A few kilometers from gion. The city of Sorsogon with its beau- here are the famous Tiwi hot springs, tiful provincial buildings, its immense which are a Mecca for many sick and ail- high school building and large business ing people. Here one comes to realize and warehouses gives one the impression very strongly that one is literally stand- of a new and vigorous countryside sup- ing on top of a volcano, for the very earth porting this capital. The town faces Sor- steams and hisses. Hot steam rises from sogon bay, a narrow inlet of the China the rocks of the river bed, while here and Sea, and far on its margin is etched the there are springs of boiling mud, and on sharp form of the volcano Balusan, which all sides Nature seems to growl. There is mildly active. In 1919 this volcano sent are lakes of hot and multicolored waters. up a great cloud of smoke, in a brief In one of the largest of these are the burst of activity. A few kilometers from bones of a water buffalo which essayed the town of Sorsogon is Bacon, a town to take his siesta in its boiling depths. It facing the open Pacific. Thus one crosses has been a long siesta. the Island of Luzon in its narrowest place The road to Sorsogon, the capital of and crosses it on a first-class road. the province of the same name, goes from One can see most of the province of Legaspi through Daraga and then makes Sorsogon by a quadrilateral trip to Bulan a sharp climb into the hilly country that going by Balusan, and returning by way characterizes this southernmost province of Casiguran. On this trip one crosses of Luzon. There are no plains or large Luzon in a few kilometers and then rides valleys in this province, yet so rich is the along the coast where the mighty Pacific soil and abundant the rainfall that it beats the shore with her endless, tireless abounds in a wonderful forest from which combers. Coconut trees line the shore, many plantations of hemp and coconuts and sharp spurs of the mountains stop are being hewn out. It is the newest only at the sea in abrupt cliffs, through and least developed part of the whole re- which the road has been blasted.

Crossing a river at flood tide in Luzon.

THE MID-PACIFIC 73

Children of Guam on the main road of the island.

The Island of Guam and Its People's Tragic History By H. G. HORNBOSTEL (Of the Philippine Magazine Staff)

The crossing of the narrow Atlantic being upon it. Presently another island Ocean from the already known Canary was passed, without people, nothing to Islands to the Bahamas by Columbus be seen but sharks. They wanted food, becomes insignificant when compared and so did we. In truth, we had little with Magellan's voyage across the un- left. We ate biscuit, but it was biscuit known waters of the vast, mysterious no longer, but a powder full of worms. Pacific, in the face of protests, mutiny, We had to eat the hides on the main yard, first exposing them to the sun to and terrible hardships. The story of Magellan's voyage reads soften them, putting them overboard for like a passage from the Odyssey. Let us three or four days, and then cooking quote here extracts from the diary of them on the embers and thus eating them. We had to eat sawdust, and rats were a the famous navigator, one of whose ships great delicacy. Scurvy broke out, and first circumnavigated the world: "It was well we did not know then how nineteen poor fellows died and thirteen wide the Pacific was. For two months lay too ill to work. The one consolation I have is that I endured every hardship we sailed on, week after week, before we the men did, and they knew I had my full sighted land. Then it proved to be only share of all the suffering. That held a small, wooded island, without a living 74 THE MID-PACIFIC

A return to native house-building in Guam after a destrictive typhoon.

A view of the central portion of Agana, the capital of Guam. THE MID-PACIFIC 75 them to me for the time to come. For The Spaniards needed Guam as a port ninety-eight days we sailed across the of call for the great Spanish galleons sea, so vast that human mind can scarcely which sailed between Acapulco and Ma- grasp it ; more than three months of awful nila. Their rule of the islands was char- trial ; and then we came to a group of acterized by harshness and oppression, islands that I named the islands of the and a desultory war of extermination was Ladrones. We got fresh food and water, carried on for many years. When first and that put new life into us—all of us known the islands had a population of at but our one Englishman, Master Andrew least 50,000. By around 1720 not one of Bristol, who had been one of my best male of the original race was alive. The men. He died just as succor came." original inhabitants of Guam were prob- So after three months and twenty days, ably Polynesians, and the present popu- eagerly watching for signs of land, Ma- lation is a mixture of this ancient blood gellan sighted Guam, and as they drew with Spanish, Malay, English, American, near it, a fleet of wonderful little vessels and Caroline islanders' blood, and also of came out to meet them—"Flying paraos" Mexican and South American tribes. they were called by the early navigators. The Spanish used American Indians As they came skipping from wave to in the wars of extermination ; and Eng- wave into the very eye of the wind they lish and American blood came to Guam were the marvel of all who beheld them. during the great days of whaling when And so Guam was discovered, and sub- Guam became an important port for these sequently taken possession of and settled hearty seamen. So important indeed be- by Spain. Magellan came in 1521. In came Guam to the whaling fleet from 1528, Saavedra took nominal possession England, and New England, that the of them, as did Legaspi later in 1565. In United States stationed an American con- 1668 the Jesuit, Louis de San Vitores, sul in Guam. established his mission in Guam. Guam The original Chamorros (natives of and the rest of the Mariana islands lie Guam) were in many ways a fine race. in a single, regular chain extending north An ancient feudalism existed, the people and south for a distance of 500 miles. being divided into nobles, priests, free- They are, for the most part, small and men, and slaves. The religion was a sort steep volcanic islands, some of which of ancestor worship. They have left be- have active craters. The more southern hind them some memorials of a civiliza- islands are larger, extremely fertile, and tion which was certainly higher than the well watered. The chain consists of sev- culture established in Guam by the mixed enteen islands which lie between thirteen people after the Spanish conquest. Massive cut-stone monoliths, square in degrees and twenty degrees north lati- tude, 1,200 miles east of Luzon. They shape and fourteen to eighteen feet high, were a possession of Spain until 1898, and enormous blocks of stone in the shape when Guam was acquired by the United of semi-globes for the capitals of these States during the war with Spain. The columns ; finely polished stone weapons and implements of basalt ; fish hooks ; an islands north of Guam became a part of the German Empire by purchase, and ornament of pearl shell ; fragments of fine after the late World's War they were pottery ; artifacts of bone and shell—all tell of the art and industry of this de- placed in Japan's care. The Marianas were the first islands in parted race which was sacrificed on the the vast Pacific to be discovered, taken altar of fanaticism and greed. The an- possession of, and settled by the white cient structures of stone called Latte are man, also the first islands of the Pacific very remarkable, and are more numerous whose native population was killed by this in the islands of Tinian and Rota than elsewhere. Their service had never been contact. 76 THE MID-PACIFIC

The aboriginal inhabitant of Guam, so it is seen, belonged to a giant race of Polynesians and spoke a language kindred to that still spoken in Hawaii, Tahiti, Samoa, and by the Maori of New Zealand. THE MID-PACIFIC 77 satisfactorily explained until recently by on the 14th of November, and although the writer who, for the last four years he found the town abandoned, he set 100 as a member of the staff of the Bishop houses on fire, and pursued the natives Museum of Honolulu, discovered their in their canoes in the lagoon with his meaning. It had been suggested by Frey- mounted men (it being low water)." cinet and others that they were the sup- Then, according to the story told by ports for the roofs of large buildings, but the people today, ensued a battle of Span- according to old Spanish accounts these ish cavalry versus natives in canoes—the Latte were in place, but not as house sup- Spaniards partly armored and having ports, on their first arrival more than flint-locks and sabres as weapons, the four centuries ago. natives, spears tipped with points cut The early history of the Mariana from human bones, and slings throwing Islands is a blot on history's shield. When oval and pointed slingstones. Twenty the devoted missionary, Don Louis de natives were killed and captured. A few San Vitores, landed in Guam, his desire Spaniards were killed and wounded. was to bring salt' ition to the natives ; but Many of the natives on reaching deep he was followed by soldiers and guns, water in their canoes effected their escape. and the soldiers' work was soon com- The battle would have been an extremely pleted, and this race was no more. They interesting one to gaze upon. Imagine a could not, loving their freedom, stand a mounted Don charging a war canoe, full foreign yoke, and the pressure became of islanders armed with spears. The con- such that, impossible as it was to shake trast of the personnel and weapons en- it off, they hung themselves or committed gaged in this battle, brings to mind the suicide in other ways in their desperation. incident in the history of civilized Europe The women deliberately made themselves where a handful of French cavalry cap- sterile and drowned their own children. tured the Dutch fleet, frozen in the Texel. Epidemic after epidemic also swept away During the period that the Spaniards almost entirely what was left of these were engaged in this war of extermina- once happy folk. tion, English buccaneer ships called at Many of the battles between the natives Guam, and were given permission to kill and the Spaniards have been preserved to and burn at will. Eaton, an English buc- Indies, this day in the form of folk tales. From caneer on his way to the East "A History of the Mariana Islands" writ- stopped at Guam, where he and his crew ten by Don Felipe de la Carte y Ruano acted towards the islanders with the Calderon, Governor of Guam from 1855 utmost barbarity, which Crowley relates to 1866, we learn that in 1672, the Spani- as a subject of merriment. On their ards attacked the town of Tomhon, and, arrival at Guam, Eaton sent a boat on as this battle is typical of the many of shore to procure refreshments, but the this murderous period, the account of it natives kept at a distance, believing his ship to be one of the Manila galleons, and is quoted here : "The town of Tomhon, where Father his people Spaniards. Eaton's men helped San Vitores had been murdered, still re- themselves to coconuts, but finding dif- mained in arms, and as many towns near ficulty in climbing, they cut the trees down it continued to show hostility, Esplana, to get the nuts. The next time their who was desirous to pacify the country, boat went to the shore, the islanders at- sent them missionaries, even at the great tacked the men, but were repulsed, and risk of being thought a coward, as it was a number of them killed. By this time the natives' custom to call the sending of the Spanish Governor had arrived at the unarmed men in hostile camps. In con- point of the island near which the ship sequence, Esplana started with his troops had anchored, and sent a letter in a few 78 THE MID-PACIFIC

Buildings of the Naval Hospital of Agana, the town of Guam.

different languages, to wit, in Spanish, safe to England "through the infinite French, Dutch, and Latin, to demand of mercy of God." what country she was, and whence she From 1698, the year that marked the came. Crowley says, "Our Captain, final conquest of the islands, until 1898, thinking the French would be welcomer Guam was, with the exception of a few than the English, returned answer we disturbances, in a peaceful state, and the were French, fitted out by private work of organizing a colonial government merchants to make fuller discovery of the was carried on. world. The Governor on this, invited The government was administered by the Captain to the shore, and at their first an officer, usually of the army, who was conference, the Captain told him that the appointed by the Crown as Governor, at Indians had fallen upon his men, and that first subordinate to the Viceroy of we had killed some of them. He wished Mexico. After the independence of we had killed them all and told us of their Mexico, the Captain-General of the Phil- rebellion. He gave us leave to kill and ippines was the immediate supervisor of take whatever we could find on the island. the Governor of Guam. All during these We then made war with those infidels, peaceful years, Guam and the rest of the and went on shore every day, fetching group became poorer and poorer econo- provisions, and firing upon them where- mically, the new mixed population living ever we saw them, except some females from hand to mouth. The ancient popu- of great beauty whom we desired. The lation amounting to many thousands was Indians sent two of their captains to us gone, and at one time, after the conquest, to treat of peace, but we would not treat only 1,000 men, women, and children of with the infidels. After this our men on the new mixed population lived in Guam. shore meeting them saluted them always During the nineteenth century one gov- by making holes in their hides." ernor stands out from the rest, namely From Guam Eaton sailed to Luzon. Don Felipe de la Carte, 1855-1866, a Crowley concludes the narrative of his captain of engineers. His service was of voyage with saying that he arrived home great benefit to the island. He taught the THE MID-PACIFIC 79 spirit of agriculture. He taught the curiosity but not with any feeling of fear, people to look forward and to provide that the authorities sighted on the morn- something against a "rainy day." ing of June 20, 1898, in front of Acacia, In 1856, smallpox was introduced into four vessels flying the American flag, of the island from Manila, and the ensuing which one at least was a warship. The epidemic swept away more than two- man-of-war in question was the cruiser thirds of the population. The scenes oc- Charleston. curring during this plague are recalled The Charleston steamed into the har- with the utmost horror by the oldest in- bor and opened fire on Fort Santa Cruz, habitants, who describe them with much which the Americans had been informed vividness. was the principal defensive work of the The Spanish for many years used harbor. As a matter of fact the fort had Guam as a place of confinement for pris- been abandoned, and no shots were of oners from the Philippines. Early in course returned. It was reported to the was salut- December, 1896, the steamship Venus, one Governor that the Charleston of the mail steamers that in those days ing the port. The Governor directed two plied between Manila, the Caroline field pieces to be taken to the port in order Islands, and the Marianas, left in Guam to return the salute. When later he was 120 prisoners who had been sent over informed that no salute was necessary as had been with from Manila. The prisoners were con- the firing of the Charleston fined at night in the buildings now used hostile intent, he was greatly surprised. as the Marine Barracks. On Christmas The inhabitants, at least the poorer and Eve one of the Spanish soldiers reported more ignorant classes, began migrating to the commanding officer and Governor to the bushes, as they had been informed that he had overheard details of a con- by the Spaniards that the Americans were spiracy that had been entered into by the savages, and that they might expect all prisoners to revolt that evening. The de- sorts of ill-treatment at their hands. On the morning following, the Governor and tails having been verified, the guards were ordered to exercise extraordinary precau- his staff and all the Spanish soldiers were made prisoners of war and were carried tions, and the force on was doubled. One of the guards, having detected some away to Manila. movement which he thought was the be- When it was finally settled by the ginning of the revolt, opened fire on the United States that the Philippines would prisoners, and the fire was immediately be retained, some attention was given to taken up by the whole guard of soldiers. Guam. Its excellent harbor and strategic Before the firing ceased, twenty-five per- position, lying, as it does, very nearly on sons had been killed and the remainder the great circle between Honolulu and wounded. the Strait of San Bernardino, made it at Owing to the remoteness and isolation once desirable as a base for the United of Guam, the inhabitants heard little of States Navy. the negotiations between the United Accordingly on December 23, 1898, the States and Spain preceding the Spanish- President of the United States, by Execu- American War, and were unaware of the tive Order, placed it under the control of declaration of war. The last mail steam- the Department of the Navy. It has re- er that visited the island about the middle mained so ever since. The governors are of April, 1898, brought advices that the naval officers, and they are all-powerful trouble between the mother country and for they are the state ; yet many, in spite the Americans was in a fair way toward of this unlimited power, have ruled just- settlement. ly. A few have not, which has caused It was therefore with some degree of much tribulation for the Naval personnel 80 THE MID -PACIFIC and the natives under them: Guam un- rental of houses. Their customs and der our flag has progressed, schools, good mode of life are those of Europeans of roads, modern conveniences, sanitation, the better classes, and the present gen- hospitals, etc., all have added to the peo- eration have accepted American ideas of ple's welfare, but economically the island society and social affairs. This class has not progressed, and probably never furnishes the island officers, such as treas- will until a different form of government urer, judges, clerks. minor officers, is installed. For an "I am the State" school teachers, etc. The citizen of the form of government is not attractive to middle class is a comfortable person outside capital. whose ranch furnishes him with a com- Today's population amounts to 18,500 petent livelihood. This he adds to by natives and about 600 American service skilled labor, such as silver and goldsmith personnel. work, or the various mechanical trades, The social classes in Guam can not be or work for the federal or insular govern- drawn in most cases along the usual lines ments. of cleavage. Practically all of the in- The lower classes differ even in appear- habitants are landowners ; many of the ance from the higher, which is possibly lower classes have recognized good blood, accounted for by the fact that there is and no family in the island can be called less foreign blood in their veins. They wealthy. The distinction, roughly speak- may be less intelligent and energetic but ing, falls between those who live merely they are a peaceful, good-natured, law- from day to clay, and those who are abiding people ; industrious in their own thrifty and provident. way and on their own work ; sensitive The better classes are exclusive, cul- and clannish to the point of protecting tured, and refined. They are usually miscreants from the law even when they large landowners, but the bulk of their themselves are the victims of the wrong- income comes from small shops or the doing.

The present day native of Guam still uses the carabao for plowing purposes. It &IMAM • laalaT • • • • • • trigtifiillalifilii410- - 15"-IIV-Y11 • BULLETIN OF THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION

An unofficial organization, the agent of no government, but with the good will of all in bringing the peoples of the Pacific together into better understanding and cooperative effort for the advancement of the interests common to the Pacific area.

CONTENTS New Series, No. 125, July, 1930

Report of the Director of the Pan-Pacific Union on Conferences Called - 3

Securing Cooperation of the Latins

Native Drugs to Be a Topic at the Pan-Pacific • Medical Conference in 1933 - - - - - 5 • i The Second Pan-Pacific Women's Conference - - 7

Hawaii an International Center for Science - - - - 10

Future Pan-Pacific Conferences - - 14

OFFICERS OF THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION

HONORARY PRESIDENTS Herbert Hoover .President of the United States S. M. Bruce Prime Minister, Australia Sir Joseph G. Ward -Prime Minister, New Zealand Chiang Kai Shek.... President of China Dr. A. C. D. de Graeff Governor-General of Netherlands East Indies W. L. Mackenzie King Prime Minister of Canada Prince I. Tokugawa President House of Peers, Japan .King of Siam His Majesty, Prachatipok President of Mexico P. Ortis Rubio Don Augusto B. Leguia President of Peru Don Carlos Ibanez President of Chile M. Pasquier Governor-General of Indo-China HONORARY VICE-PRESIDENT Dwight F. Davis Governor-General of the Philippines • OFFICERS IN HONOLULU President—Hon. Wallace R. Farrington Former Governor of Hawaii Director—Alexander Hums Ford.._ Honolulu

HONOLULU Published monthly by the Pan-Pacific Union 1930

?V.OADVMM~Atkl.P.AM"I lkrAtMM " • 771-` AIMS OF THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION

From year to year the scope of the work before the Pan-Pacific Union has broadened, until today it assumes some of the aspects of a friendly unofficial Pan-Pacific League of Nations, a destiny that both the late Franklin K. Lane and Henry Cabot Lodge predicted for it. The Pan-Pacific Union has conducted a number of successful conferences ; scientific, educational, journalistic, commercial, fisheries, and most vital of all, that on the conservation of food and food products in the Pacific area, for the Pacific regions from now on must insure the world against the horrors of food shortage and its inevitable conclusion. The real serious human action of the Pan-Pacific Union begins. It is following up the work of the Pan-Pacific Food Conservation Conference by the establish- ment of a Pan-Pacific Research Institution where primarily the study and work will be along the lines necessary in solving the problems of food production and conservation in the Pacific Area,—land and sea. Added to this, will be the study of race and population problems that so vitally affect our vast area of the Pacific, the home of more than half of the peoples who inhabit this planet. The thoughts and actions of these peoples and races toward each other as they are today, and as they should be, for the welfare of all, will be a most important problem before the Union, as well as the problem of feeding in the future those teeming swarms of races, that must be well fed to preserve a peaceful attitude toward each other. The Pan-Pacific Union is an organization is no way the agency of any Pacific Government, yet having the goodwill of all, with the Presidents and Premiers of Pacific lands as its honorary heads. Affiliated and working with the Pan-Pacific Union are Chambers of Commerce, educational, scientific and other bodies. It is supported in part by government and private appropriations and subscriptions. Its central office is in Honolulu, because of its location at the ocean's crossroads. Its management is under an international board. The following are the chief aims and objects of the Pan-Pacific Union : 1. To bring together from time to time, in friendly conference, leaders in all lines of thought and action in the Pacific area, that they may become better acquainted ; to assist in pointing them toward cooperative effort for the advancement of those interests that are common to all the peoples. 2. To bring together ethical leaders from every Pacific land who will meet for the study of problems of fair dealings and ways to advance interna- tional justice in the Pacific area, that misunderstanding may be cleared. 3. To bring together from time to time scientific and other leaders from Pacific lands who will present the great vital Pan-Pacific scientific problems including those of race and population, that must be confronted, and if pos- sible, solved by the present generation of Pacific peoples and those to follow. 4. To follow out the recommendations of the scientific and other leaders in the encouragement of all scientific research work of value to Pacific peo- ples; in the establishment of a Research .Institution where such need seems to exist, or in aiding in the establishment of such institutions. 5. To secure and collate accurate information concerning the material re- sources of Pacific lands ; to study the ideas and opinions that mould public opinion among the peoples of the several Pacific races, and to bring men to- gether who can understandingly discuss these in a spirit of fairness that they may point out a true course of justice in dealing with them internationally. 6. To bring together in round table discussion in every Pacific land those of all races resident therein who desire to bring about better understand- ing and cooperative effort among the peoples and races of the Pacific for their common advancement, material and spiritual. 7. To bring all nations and peoples about the Pacific Ocean into closer friendly commercial contact and relationship. To aid and assist those in all Pacific communities to better understand each other, and, through them, spread abroad about the Pacific the friendly spirit of inter-racial cooperation. PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 3 Report of the Director of the Pan-Pacific Union on Conferences Called (Presented at the Pan-Pacific Forum, June 9, 1930)

I earnestly trust that my voyage to and actual days of the conference. The local around Latin America may prove but the agricultural scientists who are desired as beginning of a mission on my part to all delegates to the conference will he invited of the lands within the Pan-Pacific Union, by the general body ; it is to be entirely a lands that should financially support the Pan-Pacific conference for the purpose work. mainly of organizing a permanent Pan- I have a message from this, our Ha- Pacific Agricultural Association, entirely waii, at the ocean's crossroads, the tenta- independent of the Pan-Pacific Union, tive Switzerland of the Pacific. Already which merely calls together the leading Honolulu has become our new Geneva. agricultural scientists of the Pacific to No longer will we have to nurse and conduct their own conference. cuddle our conferences held here; they The Pan-Pacific Women's Conference now wish to take care of themselves. is entirely in the hands of the interracial The one thing I had impressed on me and international committees of women. during my travels through the Americas It is hoped that at the conference in Aug- is that the serious-minded delegates wish ust they will perfect their own Pan- to use Hawaii as a neutral international Pacific Women's organization. place of meeting on soil where all may The Union gave birth last August to meet only as absolute equals, and that the the Pan-Pacific Surgical Association, now entertainment be of each other, rather an entirely independent organization, than on the part of Hawaii for visiting meeting again in Honolulu in 1932, under delegates. They no longer wish any dis- its own auspices and management. tinction and they wish to manage their It had been planned to have in 1933 the own conferences once they are here, and first Pan-Pacific Medical Conference that seems well, to me. It lifts a tremen- meet here under the auspices of the Pan- dous responsibility and a large financial Pacific Union, but in the eight years of expense from the shoulders of those in work toward this, a Pan-Pacific Medical Hawaii who have so loyally supported Association has grown up until today it is this work of more than a decade. becoming a powerful and Pacific-wide in- Throughout the United States today a terracial organization of some of the hundred or more agricultural scientists world's greatest medical authorities, quite are planning the agenda for the great capable, it would seem, of calling its own conference here next year. This agenda, first great conference; it will be asked to when completed, they will submit to the do so, the Pan-Pacific Union, as the once agricultural scientists of the Pacific lands. parent of this new organization, giving The agenda and plan of entertainment any cooperation, if asked. So phenome- prepared by the agricultural scientists of nal has been the growth of the Pan- Hawaii has been dropped into the discard, Pacific Medical Association during the - and the local agricultural scientists are last year, that one government and sev- delighted with the interest taken. The eral great international medical bodies visiting delegates will be permitted to ar- have suggested that they would like to range their own entertainment, or if they have the honor of having the first Pan- wish, taboo all entertainment during the Pacific Medical Conference meet under 4 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

their auspices. The Union has done veloped to an extent that a number of splendid work in bringing these men to- world-known research organizations are gether and can afford not to be jealous, assisting, while practically every country for out of its efforts for, and cooperation of the Pacific is already assuring coopera- with the medical men of the Pacific has tion and contributions of medical and developed a piece of work far more im- food plants and information. • portant for Hawaii, and which the inter- The Pan-Pacific Medical Association national medicos wish the Union and the would certainly wish to cooperate with Pan-Pacific Research Institution to un- this in some way. With the tremendous dertake, that is the creation of an accli- work now looming up before the Pan- matization area in Hawaii, extending Pacific Union these matters will have to from tropical sea level to Alpine summits, be taken up on a far broader international on the big island, where pharmaceutical scope than ever before. plants, as well as those of food value, may be gathered, acclimatized, and dis- It has been urged that a Pan-Pacific tributed ; perhaps Hawaii's big mountain, Botanic Conference be held in 1933, per- being the only place in the Pacific world haps on the Big Island, accepting the offer where this may be attempted. A Pan- of Federal soil, near the proposed site of Pacific Botanical Garden of this sort was a future Pan-Pacific Acclimatization suggested by the Union near a score of Garden, as a meeting place, some even years ago and has been the chief objective suggesting that the Federal and Hawai- of the Pan-Pacific Research Institution ian governments may be made to see their for the six or seven years of its existence. way clear to setting aside (as is done for Today the financing of this project is as- embassadorial residences) a bit of soil in sured, if the Union will call a conference Hawaii that is absolutely neutral and in- at which will be decided by the delegates ternational, and that here, the Pan-Pacific just how and under what auspices it Union might erect its convention build- would be best to carry on such a great ings and residential offices. At first flush international experiment for the good of I believe this might be a good plan, and I mankind. This might- be the big confer- certainly would like to spend the rest of ence of August, 1933. my life traveling around our ocean con- The germ of the idea, in its present vincing the governments in Pacific lands form, was developed by medical and food that the support of the Pan-Pacific Union experts with the Director of the Pan- should at least be financed with capital Pacific Union, on the shores of Lake Titi- from all Pacific lands, and peoples. Ha- caca in South America, from whence waii has done her share in starting a came to the outside world our white pota- miracle of peace and goodwill in the Pa- toes, Indian corn, and several other valu- cific. Let others about us carry it to a able food plants. This suggestion has de- conclusion.

Securing Cooperation of the Latins Editorial from the Honolulu Advertiser,May 5, 1930.

The Director of the Pan-Pacific The President of Panama has prom- Union, as a result of his visit to South ised to become an honorary president America, seems to have secured the co- of the Union, and head its work in his operation of the Latins in the work of country. The President of Peru has the Pan-Pacific Union. actually headed a Pan-Pacific Associa- PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 5 tion in Lima and will give an annual food plants from the region that have Pan-Pacific reception on Balboa Day, not yet gotten out to the knowledge of September 17. More important than the world. It plans to have them planted that he has seemed to grasp the possi- at the proper level above sea in Hawaii, bility of exchange of produce between hoping that useful introductions may Peru and Hawaii, and will send dele- result. The Director of the Union re- gates to the Pan-Pacific Food Conserva- ports an Indian corn near Cuzco, 11,000 tion Conference next year, to look into feet above sea level with grains an inch this. He is reported to be taking a seri- long. Could this be introduced on the ous interest in the plan to have Peru upper slopes of Mauna Kea, it might and Bolivia send to the Food Conserva- greatly aid in cattle raising in Hawaii. tion Conference some of the many kinds The Director of the Pan-Pacific of vegetable food products which these Union writes interestingly and inspir- countries have given the world. ingly of these things. He has started From Lake Titicaca and the Cuzco something Hawaiiward, that may be well country again will be sent forth samples worth while. Certainly it gives new of the maize and potatoes that from this zest to the work of the Second Pan-Paci- region have spread to the whole world. fic Conservation Conference next year, Now the Pan-Pacific Union will bring and should receive the thoughtful con- to Hawaii many valuable and nutritious sideration of the peoples of Hawaii.

NATIVE DRUGS TO BE A TOPIC places. I taught one or two members AT THE PAN-PACIFIC MEDICAL of the Bolivian cabinet in this very CONFERENCE IN 1933 school, and we will meet with a number of the Bolivian medicos and go over our By Alexander Hume Ford, The Argen- little hospital here. Expect us in 1933 tine, March 12, 1930. at your Pan-Pacific Medical Conference (From the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, April in Hawaii." 28) La Paz took on a new phase; there was something more to do than climb I was showing some Hawaiian films steep streets in between panting stops at the American Institute in La Paz to and swearing at an air deprived of some about 100 boys of all shades, from pure fifty per cent of its oxygen. Spanish to pure Aymara Indian. At the close of the talk a physician accosted me Then came another worker in the and said, "You mentioned a Pan-Paci- "school who has traversed the Andean fic Medical Conference in 1933 in Hono- country from end to end, who under- lulu. That is my sabbatical year. May took to help me to get together the ex- I come? I have had fourteen years hibit of South American food plants for practice here among the poorer Indians." the Second Pan-Pacific Food Conserva- "You certainly can," I replied, "but you tion Conference in 1931, and others must come as a representative of an asked about the Educational Conference American medical society. You must in 1932. I have been in Bolivia for bring a real Bolivian medical delegate twenty-four hours and have made as with you, and you must spend the next many friends who are interested in the three years preparing a paper on the various conferences being called by the native remedies of the Bolivian Indians." Pan-Pacific Union. "Agreed," replied my genial doctor, "to- Bolivia and Peru are both in the morrow I will take you out to see the tropics. I am the only one in La Paz various medical herbs sold in the market wearing an overcoat. In certain valleys 6 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN there are strange fatal diseases that pre- We set forth on our mission and at clude the employment of outside labor last found the place in the market where in these valleys, and also preclude the native vegetable drugs are sold. There securing of laborers from these valleys, were a score of them in the first group. for they carry the fatal diseases with All in little piles ready for sale. There them. One of these diseases is caused was the silk of the corn which is used by a minute microbe which causes ulcers for kidney trouble and it is most effec- that drain the system until slow death tive if not curative. There was a little pile comes. Could this be studied during the of dried leaves good for the lungs, an- next three years and a preventative other for the liver, another for the stom- found it would be of great benefit to ach and so on. Centuries of persistent man, for as yellow fever was probably use indicate that there is a reason to be- once confined to isolated spots and final- lieve that these medicinal plants have ly spread everywhere in the American a curative effect. For three years Dr. tropics, so other now local tropical dis- Beck will make a study of this subject, eases may take on such a new life. calling in native Bolivian medical men It is only recently that yellow fever, and members of the Indian tribes that supposed to be banished, appeared in one prepare drugs, and have a paper ready of the Latin American countries and for the Pan-Pacific Medical Conference took its scores of victims. in Honolulu, August, 1933. More than In Honolulu in 1933 the meeting of that he will set in motion the machinery the Far Eastern Tropical Medical As- to get kindred information from all of sociation with the American and Aus- the Pan-American states. The next step tralasian tropical medical research of the Pan-Pacific Union is to notify the workers, promises to be only the first medical profession in each Pacific coun- of many serious conferences of the tropi- try of this study and collection of native cal medical men of the entire Pacific. drugs and their uses, and ask them to The matter is being taken up very seri- gather kindred collections and knowl- ously by the Latin and American medical edge for the edification of the Pan-Paci- men. They realize the danger of tropi- fic Medical Conference of 1933. In this cal contagious diseases. way will be brought together the most I am waiting now for my medical and unique and remarkable collection of na- agricultural friends in La Paz to call tive drugs, something that has not been for me, that we may start the ball roll- done before. There are still many aged ing in Bolivia. Dr. Frank S. Beck is Hawaiian men who can aid in making establishing the American Hospital in a collection of the vegetables from which La Paz. It is the American Institute medical drugs were made by the old and Hospital that are representing the Hawaiians, who can tell something of Pan-Pacific Union in Bolivia, making their uses and effects. A work of this a collection of Bolivian seeds, of food sort was once begun at the Pan-Pacific plants, and a 'collection of the native Research Institution and it is safe to vegetable drugs used by the Indians, say that it will be now resumed with and this is a task, for there are more vigor. Dr. Robert Pulleine of Adelaide, than a hundred of these. Mr. A. Bell, with his extreme knowledge of the Aus- of the American Institute will attend to tralian aboriginal will be asked to head the necessary photographic work. A the work and study on his continent. son of the President of Bolivia attends Dr. Buck could probably get a splendid the American Institute and through collection from the Maoris of New Zea- him the facts set forth in this and other land, with scientific data as to the uses letters on Bolivia will be placed before and effect of the Maori vegetable medical him, properly translated into Spanish. preparations. It may safely be assumed PAN PACIFIC U'NI'ON BULLETIN 7 that from China a most varied collection of saving his life. His last such patient, will be gotten together and it may in- almost at death's door, his fingers blue, fluence the chemist to discover if there got up at Arika on the sea coast and is a scientific basis for considering the walked to the hospital, where he made a real efficiency of many of the Chinese quick recovery. Then there is a strange medicines. The American Indian had hitherto fatal fungus disease that at- his vegetable remedies, and as full a tacks first the nose and eats it off, that collection as possible of these will be Dr. Beck has found a cure for. It is six gathered for the big medical congress months of injection of tartar emetic. He of 1933. will describe this, and there are other This will be a unique feature of the rare tropical diseases even at these great Conference, but here in Bolivia, high heights that will interest the members up in the Andes, the medical men are of the Far Eastern Tropical Medical keenly interested- in the study of tropi- Association and others. cal diseases. Dr. Beck will bring a pa- The Pan-Pacific Medical Conference per on sorochi and its effects, he tells promises to be one gathering called by me that he has never lost a native pa- the Pan-Pacific Union where the great, tient with pneumonia, but the moment tremendous work, and effort will be ini- he suspects pneumonia in a foreigner he tiated and undertaken outside of Hawaii orders a special train and takes him and the results carried there for compari- down to sea level. It is the only hope son.

The Second Pan-Pacific Women's Conference August 9-23, 1930 By Dr. Ethel Osborne, Program Secretary (Radio Talk, May 10, over KGMB, Honolulu Star-Bulletin Broadcasting Station) Little did I dream a couple of years small area in England on the River ago that I should be here in Honolulu on Thames, which small area we call Lon- this occasion broadcasting on the subject don. I myself live in Melbourne, the of women in the Pacific. And now to southernmost capital of the mainland tell you how it comes about. Though continent. I do not think it is always not a native of Australia, I have spent realized that it takes a week of sea travel a quarter of a century over in that dis- to journey from Perth, the capital city tant island continent about which the of West Australia, to Melbourne, which world at large has not a great deal of is not even the most easterly point. You very definite information. Perhaps I can imagine that a continent such as may digress on this subject for a mo- this but little settled, only a little over ment. a century old, and with such a scattered I think it is a unique place in that it population has many difficult problems is a continent as big as the United States to face. Further, from the earliest sta- with a population equal to three-fourths ges of its development it set out with of that congested city, New York ; that very definite ideals, especially in regard is, the population of Manhattan Island to labor. Though there are people who spread over the whole United States. have considered and still do consider Or, again, it is equal to the whole of many of these ideals are too far-fetched Europe including Siberia, in size, with and extravagant, yet, looking over the a population equal again to about three- past we can see that these ideals were quarters of the people gathered into the simply a reaction to the many injustices 8 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

under which labor existed and suffered women coming from the countries of the for many generations in the older coun- Pacific so utterly diverse, which border tries of Europe. Thus, Australia has its on this common ocean, the Pacific, ga- own difficulties, and it has not been pos- thered on this little Island, which I be- sible for its women to take any great lieve, because of its geographical posi- part in world affairs, either political or tion, its wonderful climate and its mar- of the nature of social welfare, chiefly velous beauty has been ordained for a by reason of its distant geographical special purpose in the world's history position and its own domestic problems. and social evolution. A little more than two years ago the No wonder that it has been named women of Australia who had been mak- the Crossroads of the Pacific. We can ing such efforts as lay in their power look on the map of the world, but we to develop the welfare of their own peo- shall find no other place just comparable. ple were pleasurably surprised to re- In the west, great ocean crossroads ceive an invitation from the Pan-Pacific have a very different history and a very Union to attend a Pan-Pacific Women's different story to tell. There are meet- Conference to be held in Honolulu in ing places of races, colored and white, August, 1928., We in Australia found which have been in relation over long ourselves with no definite organization ages, and the contact is tinged with tra- for selection of women as national dele- dition, and with memories of rights gates for such purposes. That was the slighted, wrongs unadjusted, and with first lesson, I think, which this move- all the train of evils attendant on hatreds ment of the Pan-Pacific Women's Con- of the past, and suspicious for the fu- ference taught us. At that time the ture. I would only mention to bring to women of Australia had really no organ- your minds conditions in Ceylon, where ized mechanism, no means of expressing East is meeting West, conditions in Port themselves as a unit in world affairs. Said, where the West touches for the However, the best that could be done first time with the East. I would ask in the circumstances was done, and a you to look at relationships as they ex- delegation came from Australia to that ist in this Island, where again the Oc- conference. It was .joined on the boat cident and Orient meet, and from which at Auckland, New Zealand, by a dele- of these areas is it likely that we shall gation from that Dominion. really see the germ of sound develop- For those who had the privilege of ment in social well-being of the eastern attending the First Conference, the mem- and western world ; from which is one ory is indestructibly permanent and if justified in hoping the social well-being to us women from down South who are of the world may spring. To all women long accustomed to the spirit of travel who came to that last Conference, there and pioneering, it seemed a going out is not only remaining forever in their into the "unknown," a new venture, how minds the memory of a great contribu- much more must it have been a great tion of information and education, but adventure to the women who came over there is a memory too of hospitality from the east of Asia, for whom the which it would be difficult to surpass. world up to the present has not been a I had, after the Conference, the very wide open field. There can be no doubt great privilege of going over to Europe, but that this gathering was unique and and there carrying out negotiations with was a historic occasion. Never again the permanent people of the League of in the Pacific, and I doubt if in the Nations and the International Labor world, can there be a concourse of wom- Office on behalf of the Pan-Pacific en quite so pioneering as this. These Union. There was no doubt in the minds PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 9 of the officers at Geneva of the signifi- Conference to be most qualified to deal cance of this women's movement in the with that particular subject. These Pacific and the power it may become ranged over Health, Government, Social in the world. Afterwards I had the Service, Education, and Industry. opportunity of meeting again in Ameri- Finally it was decided that so much ca the women who had taken part in good work had been done that a further this Conference. One and all of those conference must be held. As already women expressed the highest apprecia- stated, owing to shortness of time, and tion of the hospitality accorded to the the lack of authority in the national dele- delegates on all sides while in Honolulu, gations, no further conference was defi- of the valuable content of the program, nitely provided for, though its need was and of the great significance that that urgently stressed. Again the Director Conference held for the world at large. of the Pan-Pacific Union stepped into Every delegate I met expressed an ar- the breach and offered to place in the dent desire to return again for further hands of the women of the Pacific an- deliberations, and to hear the records other opportunity for holding such a of the work achieved as a result of that gathering. That was the end of the 1928 Confererce. Conference. This unique gathering had been ren- The national delegations went back dered possible only through the inspira- to their own countries and reported to tion and the activities of the Pan-Pacific their various organizations and to the Union. It was hoped by certain of the women of their countries, as widely as organizers and by many of those who possible, as to what had taken place. attended the Conference that a perma- The Australian delegation on its way nent women's organization might follow. back to Australia prepared a brief sum- Owing to the shortness of time, which mary of the proceedings of the Congress, had been allowed for deliberations of the hospitality accorded to the dele- coupled with great wealth of material, gates. it was not possible to evolve a complete I have stated that was the end of the permanent machinery. It was the gen- 1928 Conference, but I made a mistake ; eral consensus of opinion, however; that the climax of the 1928 Conference was some such permanent organization the publication of a volume which I be- should be evolved. It was felt by many lieve will go down to posterity as a re- that great as were the benefits to each port of a unique gathering of women, . individual attending such a Conference, which _made its contribution toward the a community development and program world's progress. must be looked for to justify any con- tinuation. In order to bring this about In this volume, "The Women of the at the close of the last meeting, definite Pacific," the papers contributed are lines of continuation on "follow-up" printed in full. Summaries of the dis- work were instituted. It was hoped that cussions ; that is, the thinking of the as a result of these investigations ma- conference, and the resolutions and out- terial would be available from different come, the suggestions for continuing countries among certain definite subjects work are all recorded there, as well as and in a definite form so that comparison testimony to all those whose enthusiasm and correlation would be possible. Each and activity had made this Conference one of the investigations became a "pro- possible. The volume is full of human ject" and was put in the charge of an interest and it could not fail to grip international director, generally the from some point or other, almost any woman who had shown herself at the woman who can read. 10 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

Now during two years those national activity, unabated zeal and devotion of delegations have been busy in their own the Executive Committee of the Wom- countries trying against lethargy, lack en's Conference—Mrs. Francis M. Swan- of vision, and all the wealth of indiffer- zy, Mrs. A. L. Andrews, Miss Alice ence to social progress, which exists Brown, and Miss A. Y. Satterthwaite, everywhere, to stimulate interest, evolve Secretary. It has been decided to ex- national organizations, and accumulate tend the activities over a period of two information for the projects as well as weeks, from August 9th to 23rd. I have to prepare papers of significance for the next conference. come from Australia to afford what help And now this Second Conference is to I can to the preparation of the program. be held in August here in Honolulu, this I congratulate myself on being able year, again through the generosity of to be here again in this spot, one of the the Pan-Pacific Union, and through the oases of the world.

Hawaii an International Center for Science (From the Honolulu Advertiser, June 5, 1930.)

Definite steps for the establishment of rest of my life on this mission. a botanical experimental area on the "The work of the Pan-Pacific Union, slopes of Mauna Kea where all the widely in Hawaii, is in position now to be taken varied climatic conditions of Hawaii are over by a business manager and so permit available, with a view to transforming the the director to do abroad the work that Islands into a world center for botanical must be from now on the life of the and medical research, were taken by Union. Alexander Hume Ford, director of the "I think my trip may be called success- Pan-Pacific Union, who returned yester- ful, in both the Americas. I have been day after traveling some 25,000 miles in permitted to indulge in no idle days, and the two Americas. In an interview given in every city I found earnest and power- The Advertiser he outlined his plans for ful men interested in the objects of the the future as a traveling minister of Pan-Pacific Union. friendship to the countries that border the "A few hours with the men who con- Pacific. trol the scientific and ,research work of "I return," said Ford, "convinced that the two great universities in California, Honolulu is destined to become the real and plans were put in motion, with inves- active Geneva of the Pacific and I wish tigations assigned, that may result in to make it my life work now to speed up carrying out in Hawaii one of the great this happy consummation. dreams of the Pan-Pacific Research In- "I have become convinced on this trip stitution, almost the first declared inten- where and how I can be of most service tion of which was that it would interest to Hawaii and the peoples of our ocean. the Pacific nations in a project to make I trust that the rest of my life will be of Hawaii a world botanical garden. spent in visiting those countries that sur- While I was in Washington, Dr. Walter round us, preaching ever a real patriotism Swingle, botanist, approached me. 'Ford,' of the Pacific. A. patriotism looking to- he said, 'you are always writing about ward Hawaii as our Switzerland and Mauna Kea as the ideal possible botanical Honolulu the Geneva of our ocean. I garden site of the Pacific. I have a better hope Hawaii and the Pan-Pacific Union scheme, and am ready to work on it. Give will make it possible for me to spend the me a strip of land from the ocean at the PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 11 base of Mauna Kea to its summit in the "In that two hours' confab at the Alpine region and I will see what can be Hooper Foundation many details were done on this ribbon of land, through every discussed, and the possibility of the Pan- clime, toward making an acclimatization Pacific Medical Congress becoming a garden that will have no rival in the world conference called by one of the whole world.' great governments grew apace. It is even " 'Done,' I cried, 'I will go back to Ha- on the cards that a preliminary confer- waii and see if the Territory will back ence on the cost of medical care and such a scheme.' A month later in San health may precede the medical meet, that Francisco I was discussing with Dr. Al- being postponed possibly after a discus- fred Reed, of the University of California sion at the Far Eastern Tropical meet in Medical College, his taking over and or- December, and further discussion at the ganizing for California the study of Pan-American Medical meet in January. tropical medical work for the Pan-Pacific "Certain it is that the medical men are Medical meet in 1933. He was mildly in- looking on the collection of native medi- terested and consented because big men cinal herbs here as one of the most valu- in this line of work were behind my able contributions to medical scientific re- request. search, and liberal financial support is al- "As I was about to leave, however, at ready promised to make it a success. The the end of half an hour, I happened to collection at Honolulu will probably be mention Swingle's ribbon plan and a sug- the most complete in the world. gestion that as we were collecting native "Dr. Reed, who represents the Royal medical plants from every Pacific land Society of Tropical Medicine and. Hy- the seeds of these might be tried out on giene on the Pacific Coast, believes that the tropical Alpine strip of soil. Dr. Reed the London organization, making a simi- almost leaped to his feet, 'What's that?' lar collection, will work with the Pau- . he exclaimed. 'Why that's what we need. Pacific Union, sending exhibits and giv- Here at the Hooper Foundation we are ing aid that will make the work at Hawaii studying that very thing. We have an en- of interest to the whole world. dowment for analyzing the medical herbs of every land. Send us your collections, "It is possible, if the seeds and young plants can be secured and placed on the we will pay transportation charges, make sides of Mauna Kea in time, that the re- the analyses for you and get up the ex- search workers who attend the conference hibit.' may study the tropical herbs in actual "Then I almost embraced Dr. Reed. growth, while many of those that are He had in an instant become my friend grown now only in hothouses may be for life. In two moments we were in Dr. transferred to the Hawaiian acclimatiza- K. F. Meyer's office, chairman of the tion strip for closer and better study in Hooper Foundation. A moment later we the open air. had Dr. Chauncey D. Leake, Professor of Pharmacy, with us, the entire morning "And now the anthropologists wish to passed and I had agreed to entertain at take a hand, they are interested in bring- the Pan-Pacific Research Institution a ing to the exhibit of medical herbs used representative of the Hooper Foundation, by aboriginal races, the medicine men of and he is on his way to Hawaii. these races, that their accounts of the na- "Yes, sometimes I do act quickly, and tive uses of these herb remedies may be it pays. I learned it from Lorrin A. secured and preserved. Dr. Reed showed Thurston twenty-odd years ago. It is his me in his laboratory books of pressed great motto in life, 'If you are going to plants, then the bottles containing their do a thing, do it now and get it behind chemical constituents, with a description you ; if not, leave it alone.' of the medical value of these. One of the 12 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

great American drug firms has imported and nursing of Mrs. Jordan would un- one of China's foremost medical research doubtedly have proved fatal. workers to head its laboratory looking "Dr. Jordan was in his wheel chair in after the care of medical herbs from the garden watching the goldfish when I China. This man and the collection will was taken out to him. 'just look at these be at the Pan-Pacific medical gathering fish fighting for their daily bread,' he in Honolulu. said. 'Yes, Jessie, I know Mr. Ford, and "Some of the medical research men will he is going to tell me all about Dr. Krauss attend the Pan-Pacific Agricultural Con- and my friends in Hawaii,' and the scien- ference next year in Honolulu to discuss tist once more turned to the fish and ex- possible methods of promoting, with the plained to me their habits in captivity. botanists, at this conference the plan to Next to the fishpond was the monkey cage secure and care for a strip of land on and Dr. Jordan's face beamed as he Mauna Kea to be used as an acclimatiza- turned to the mother monkey and her tion experiment station. The Carnegie suckling young. During lunch he put Institute at Stanford University is keenly aside four large strawberries for mother interested in this. I had a long talk with monkey and was much pleased at the re- representatives of this institution, and port that she had eaten them with gusto. one in particular who would like to come Dr. Jordan still loves the whole world to Hawaii to start such an experiment. and all that is in it. I think he would like "Dr. Carl Alsberg, the tentative chair- to come back to Hawaii but that is not man of the Pan-Pacific Agricultural Con- to be ; he is near his eightieth birthday ference, was in the East conferring with and is looking forward to crossing that the agricultural scientists in that region line. when I called at Stanford, but I met the "Both Stanford and the University of acting president of the university, Dr. Hawaii now have their earnest groups of Robert Eckles Swain, biochemist, and scientists working on projects connected keenly interested in the Agricultural Con- with the Pan-Pacific Union and I believe ference, which he expects to attend. Both that from now on many of their workers he and the Carnegie Institute are giving will be the house-guests at the Pan-Pacific Alsberg every encouragement. ' Research Institution, for some of these "In San Francisco Dr. Barton Warren learned men have plans laid for perma- Evermann called to discuss the section nent work in Hawaii and the Research conference dealing with ocean mammals. Institution offers them every aid in mak- He and Sir Joseph Carruthers will head ing a start. this, and perhaps Sir Joseph's project to "Dr. Gilchrist, chairman of the Ameri- have Australia given a mandate over the can section of the Pan-Pacific Surgical Antarctic continent may be brought up Association, was most helpful and gener- and advanced, so that Australia may take ous in San Francisco. He put me in it on herself to preserve from extinction touch with the proper medical men, tak- by the Norwegian bombing fleet, the last ing me in person to see Dr. Reed and school of whales in the last of breeding promising every assistance toward mak- places, on the coast of Antarctica. ing the 1933 medical meeting a success. "Then there was a day with Dr. David Heading the American section of the sur- Starr Jordan, still president of the Pan- gical congress in 1932 Dr. Gilchrist and Pacific Research Institution, and still in- his San Francisco group believe that terested in its future. Dr. Jordan is once April of that year is the best time for more able to get about and now has his their meet in Honolulu. He approves the lunch at table with his family, after more plan for 1933 for the medical meet. Both than a year in bed. The breakdown came these dates at present seem somewhat suddenly and but for the excellent care tentative. PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 13

"The plans for the Pan-Pacific Medical now acting as the central station. Hawaii Conference have already grown to an ex- will certainly in 1933 have the most com- tent that it may be necessary to change plete and remarkable collection of medical it to an officially-called world conference. plants ever brought together. Certain it is, however, that it will be one "The work of collections in Bolivia has of the greatest science meets ever planned started, and in January Dr. Fred Albee, for Honolulu. chairman of the Pan-Pacific Medical "In San Francisco, groups are working Conference, with a group of world-dis- on several conferences to convene in tinguished medical men and research Honolulu. Mrs. Edson is heading the workers will tour Latin America by air- delegation from the States to the. Pan- plane, from Mexico to Patagonia, visiting Pacific Women's Conference in August. the leading medicos and interesting them and will bring her full quota. Alsberg at in the scope of the 1933 conference in Stanford University heads the American Honolulu. Dr. Albee will also make a delegation to the Pan-Pacific Agricultural trip around the world in the same inter- Conference next year, and Dr. Reed, at ests. Outstanding men will be consulted the University of California, the Pacific and selected to prepare the needed papers Coast section for the 1933 Medical Con- of medical and scientific value, and they ference. will be expected to attend the conference "Even on the Sierra I did not escape as_delegates. It is believed by the general a day's work. There were several scien- committee that a hundred outstanding tists aboard who will attend our Honolulu men of medicine and medical knowledge conferences and we had daily sessions. H. can be brought together for round-table Tolley, chairman of the board of govern- discussion and official participation in the ors of the Fielding Agricultural College, conference, while a far larger number will New Zealand, was aboard. He has for a attend as associate or visiting delegates, lifetime been a champion of agricultural some of these from time to time being in- education in New Zealand ; he hopes to vited to participate in discussion of proj- attend the Pan-Pacific Agricultural Con- ects in which they have special interest. ference next year to study our school "Some of the American committee, are garden system. He is aiding me in get- already looking forward to the 1933 trip ting up the proper list of those to be in- to Hawaii by "blimp." The American vited from New Zealand. leaders of the Pan-Pacific Agricultural "Then there is V. M. Coulter, U.S.N. Conference of next year also hope to biochemist in the navy and on the Rocke- "hop" down to Hawaii. They are urging feller Cancer Research Committee. He is the Goodyear company to complete its on his way to Samoa for an 18 months' first big dirigible on which it is at work stay. He was a student of Dr. Meyer of in time to make its first flight to Hawaii the Hooper Foundation and will make, with the communication section delegates and prepare for exhibition, a collection aboard for the Pan-Pacific Agricultural of Samoan plants used in medicine, for Conference, 1931. the 1933 conference. "The day of air travel has arrived. Ac- "Dr. S. B. Wakefield is taking charge complishment in international communi- for Fiji, the New Hebrides and the Solo- cation is bringing all countries together mons. He is having men travel in each of as neighbors. I feel certain, as did Henry these areas making collections and will Cabot Lodge, that Honolulu as the very send the material as collected to the central location in our ocean must become Hooper Foundation for preparation for first the Geneva of the Pacific, and then 1933. Rapidly the plans for collections perhaps the new Geneva of the world. throughout the Pacific area are being Everywhere groups of thinking men are brought together, the Hooper Foundation casting about for a place where, undis- 14 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

turbed, they may meet and confer on seri- tual advancement and the creation of a ous affairs of nations and of international patriotism of the Pacific that will mater- prosperity. Hawaii can offer this. ially advance our mutual interests. "Kilauea National Park has been sug- "Honolulu is 'fixed' as the international gested as a place of meeting for some of conference city of the Pacific. The Pan- the more serious groups that wish to come together quietly without entertain- Pacific Union in twe,nty years of service ment, Honolulu for larger gatherings. It has brought this about ; now to make is with these groups in almost every Pa- Honolulu the Geneva of the Pacific. I cific land that I am keeping in touch. My hope it may be my privilege to aid in service to Hawaii and the Pacific, I am bringing about by personal visits and ap- certain, can best be served by visiting and peals in the countries of the Pacific such revisiting these groups and establishing a condition, with each country assuming new and .needed contacts between the the share of the financial burden so long peoples of Pacific lands, who wish to carried by Hawaii and her people of all work in accord with each other for mu- the Pacific races." Future Pan-Pacific Conferences The Second Pan-Pacific Women's COn- A hundred other dignitaries I have ference to be held in Honolulu under the seen in Washington during my first auspices of the Pan-Pacific Union this twenty-four hours will lend their aid and August, 9 to 23, will be followed in 1931 presence to these projects. Just now I am by the Second Pan-Pacific Food or Agri- to lunch with the head of the good roads cultural Conference, in 1931 or 1932 by a organization, to confer on the possibility Second Pan-Pacific Commercial Confer- of holding a Pan-Pacific good roads ence, in 1932 by a Pan-Pacific Section of conference in Honolulu next year, per- the World Federation of Educational haps in connection with the food con- Associations, and in 1933 by the Pan- servation meet. Pacific Medical Conference. For the In Washington one does not have to last four months Mr. Alexander Hume run all over creation to find any one, Ford, Director of the Pan-Pacific Union, as is necessary in New York. Sunday has been traveling through Central and evening as I stepped into the Cosmos South America and the United States, club and disposed of my grip with its promoting interest in these meetings, as South American labels I was welcomed evidenced by the following report in the by Dr. L. 0. Howard, chairman of the Honolulu Star-Bulletin of May 2nd : first Pan-Pacific food conservation con- Washington, D. C., April 14—Ray ference, who retires next year. He ex- Lyman Wilbur, secretary of the interior, pects to attend the second conference will lend the Pan-Pacific Union Elwood and perhaps preside over entomology. Mead as chairman of the irrigation and Dr. Charles L. Marlatt, head of the reclamation section of the Second Pan- U. S. horticultural board, hopes to be Pacific Food Conference in 1931. able to head the horticultural section. John Barton Payne may take up the Joseph Rock, while almost embracing matter of a Pan-Pacific Red Cross con- me in his delight at seeing a Honolulu ference in Honolulu, coincident with the face, flatly refused to leave the little gathering -of the Pan-Pacific medical hospital he has built above the clouds meeting in 1933 depending upon the in Tibet to come back to Hawaii for a action of the Red Cross league in Paris, food conference. I .may compel him to which has already approved Honolulu. change his plans. I have a scheme. PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN 15

Rock is a big personality in Washington gineering Association of Hawaii that I now. He addresses the Geographic have pledged its offices as host in society next week. August, 1931, to the engineers attending I saw the Secretary of the Interior the transportation section of the Food and Dr. L. S. Rowe of the Pan-American Conservation Conference, I have also Union at once, on my arrival, and was promised that the association will send not kept waiting a moment. They both out invitations to the proper delegates. promised the cooperation I asked. I In all seriousness, I believe that this think now we shall have Pan-Pacific agricultural conference next year and the clubs from one end of Pacific Latin medical conference of 1933 will be of America to the other. It was Dr. Rowe great benefit to Hawaii's leading indus,- who suggested to the International tries. Out of our last food conservation Highway Commission that it get in conference was born the Sugar Technol- touch with me and arrange for a Pan- ogists' association. Next year a number Pacific Highway Congress in Hawaii. of the world's best known horticul- In New York I stopped but long turists, agriculturists and entomologists enough to meet some of the medical will gather. In 1933 the medical men men interested in the 1933 conference gathering then particularly wish to meet in Hawaii, and to arrange for a later the plantation doctors. As there will be banquet or lunch which Dr. Albee and a section on tropical diseases, some of shall address. He was elected president the most brilliant workers in this field of the International Medical Association are already planning to. be present. of New York last night. He has some I have just had lunch with Harry H. world known medical men lined up for Moore, an old friend. He is director the big meet of 1933. Here in Washing- of study for the committee on the cost of ton I find dates made for me in the medical care, which is spending $1,000,- highest quarters to discuss the matter. 000 a year on research, a report of which It will, I think, have powerful govern- Dr. Wilbur thinks will be ready for the ment backing and approval. Pan-Pacific Medical Conference in 1933. I find several retired Department of Dr. Wilbur arranged the meeting with State men who are seriously considering Moore, who expects to attend the con- making Honolulu their home. Our old ference. He and Dr. Albee will get to- friend, Victor Clark, intends to return. gether. Moore believes the work of his Well, I am just back from that lunch committee will be completed early in at the Metropolitan Club, and Thomas 1933. Plans are in embryo to ask other Harris MacDonald, Chief of the Bureau Pacific lands to make kindred studies. of Public Roads, will attend the Pan- Here at the Cosmos club it is a suc- Pacific Food Conservation Conference, cession of lunches and with leaders who heading the transportation section. He expect to attend the coming conferences and Dr. Pyke Johnson of the Highway in Honolulu. Robert Carl White, Assist- Education Board will work out the de- ant Secretary of Labor would like to tails of a Pan-Pacific Good Roads As- attend the Food Conservation Con- sociation to be perfected at the confer- ference. He will send Miss Agnes L. ence. Peterson, assistant director of the 'Wom- Dr. Masao Kamo, who sent his re- en's Bureau of the Department of Labor, gards to me through the Engineering to the Pan-Pacific Women's Conference Association of Hawaii, is here in Wash- this summer while her chief, Miss Mary ington. We will see him about the dele- Anderson, is preparing data. gation from Japan to the good roads From Washington one can send night section. I may as well inform the En- rate letters over the wires at the rate of 16 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN

$1 for 50 words. I am investing. We Pacific research institution will achieve are taking up serious propositions of its destiny as the Woods Hole of the Dr. Carl Alsberg, head of the food re- Pacific. I feel now that a series of im- search work at Stanford, and getting portant scientific and other conferences approval here of his chief, John C. Mer- will be held there, where leaders in sev- riam, president of the Carnegie Institu- eral lines of thought or action in the tion. Alsberg will probably head the Pacific area will gather for a month or conference on food and agriculture. more and accomplish world-useful work. I have just dropped in to call on Dr. I would like to see Hawaii the Geneva L. 0. Howard and found an old New of the Pacific, the center of intellectual Zealand friend with him, Dr. David gatherings for the advancement of the Miller, entomologist and head of Caw- welfare of mankind. thorne Institute. The conversation I have just sent a message to Dr. drifted to the value of small conferences Augustus Thomas, president of the of a longer period and I offered the World Educational Association which Pan-Pacific research institution as a had its inception in Hawaii, and who home for a month to Dr. Howard, Dr. returns to Honolulu in 1932. At the re- Miller, and a dozen or more other lead- quest of Dr. Thomas, I am promoting ing entomologists of Pacific lands. the Pan-Pacific section of this confer- They are inclined to accept, making ence. I am wiring him of the desire of it July of next year, the month previous President Leguia of Peru to call a Latin to the food conference, for which they American congress in Lima, and of my will remain. Dr. Miller is visiting South effort to have him call this conference America and I hope will be able to visit first in Hawaii as a part of the Pan- my research workers in Bolivia and help Pacific section of the World Educational to guide the making of the collection Conference, bearing in mind his invita- they have promised. tion for a Pan-Pacific regional confer- Dr. Brandies, head of the sugar sec- ence in Lima, say in 1933 or 1934. tion here, promises a collection from I called at the film division of the New Guinea, and motion films of his Department of Agriculture and made an visit there, and search for disease-re- exchange arrangement for the printing sistant sugar cane. He will send one of 1200 pictures, which I took in South representative with the exhibit. America, so that I may show them at William -Allen White of Emporia, the Cosmos club the night we organize Kan., has just come in He favorably the first formal Pan-Pacific gathering considers the idea of being a guest at there. I am giving up the film of 200 the Pan-Pacific research institution for on the pineapple industry, and a sugar a month. The Union will invite a dozen film made in the junior department la- other leading press men of the Pacific. boratory of the Pan-Pacific research in- For two or three months Dr. David stitution. Much of last year's work in Starr Jordan was a guest at the Pan- this department may find its way into Pacific research institution. I cabled to the federal circulating library of educa- each Pacific country, inviting it to send tional films. its foremost ichthyologist, and a little As I am getting away, Dr. Charles group gathered that is now completing Edward Chambers, head of rice research the check list of the fish of the Pacific. in the agricultural department, drops in Dr. Jordan is completing his part of the to ask if I will do for rice what I did for sugar. I am inviting him to select work as he lies in bed at Stanford. This 12 rice experts from Pacific lands and list will be published by the Union. ask them as guests for a month, at the More and more I feel that the Pan- Pan-Pacific research institution. ADVERTISING SECTION

THE MID-PACIFIC

Fiji Island fishing canoe.

RUPERT BROOKE IN THE PACIFIC loveliness. You lie on a mat in a cool Samoan hut, and look out on a white I shall go out and wander through sand under the high palms, and a gentle the forest paths by the grey moonlight. sea, and the black line of the reef a Fiji in moonlight is like nothing else in mile out, and moonlight over everything, this world or the next. It's all dim floods and floods of it . . . And then colors and all scents. And here where among it all are the liveliest people in it's high up, the most fantastically- the world, moving and dancing like shaped mountains in the world tower gods and goddesses, very quietly and mysteriously, and utterly content. It is up all around, and little silver clouds sheer beauty, so pure that it's difficult and wisps of mist run bleating up and to breathe in it—like living in a Keats down the valleys and hillsides like lambs world, only it's less syrupy—Endymion looking for their mother. There's only without sugar. Completely unconnected one thing on earth as beautiful ; and with this world. that's Samoa by moonlight. That's ut- From "The Collected Poems of terly different, merely Heaven, sheer Rupert Brooke. with a Memoir."

Suva, Fiji, is on the route of the ton passenger steamer Tofua. A grand Canadian-Australasian Royal Mail Line tour of the Pacific taking in all these from Vancouver to Honolulu, Suva, places, and also Wellington (N. Z.), Auckland and Sydney. Samoa is in- Rarotonga (Cook Is.), Tahiti, and San cluded in the Fiji-Tonga-Samoa round Francisco, can be arranged. Theo. H. cruise of the Union S. S. Co.'s 4500- Davies & Co. are the Honolulu agents. THE MID-PACIFIC

About the Big Island

The Moana Hotel at Waikiki

The Territorial Hotel Company, Ltd., score of years, which speaks for itself. maintains the splendid tourist hotel at Both transient tourists and permanent Waikiki Beach, the Moana, facing the guests are welcomed. surf, as well as the Seaside family hotel near by, and the palatial Royal At Child's Blaisdell Hotel and Restau- Hawaiian Hotel, with its golf links at rant, at Fort Street and Chaplain Lane, Waialae. Child's Hotels and Apartment Service accommodations are masters at getting you settled in real homelike style. If you wish to live in town, there is the Child's Blaisdell Hotel in the very heart of the city, with the palm garden restaurant where everything is served from a sand- wich to an elegant six-course dinner. If we haven't the accommodation you de- sire, we will help you to get located. The City Transfer Company, at Pier 11, has its motor trucks meet all incoming steamers and it gathers baggage from Famous Hau Tree Lanai every part of the city for delivery to the outgoing steamers. This company The Halekulani Hotel and Bunga- receives, and puts in storage until needed, lows, 2199 Kalia Road, "on the Beach excess baggage of visitors to Honolulu at Waikiki." Include Jack London's and finds many ways to serve its patrons. Bungalows and House Without a Key. Rates from $5.00 per day to $115.00 Honolulu is so healthy that people per month and up. American plan. don't usually die there, but when they do Clifford Kimball. they phone in advance to Henry H. Wil- liams, 1374 Nuuanu St., phone number Vida Villa Hotel and cottages are on 1408, and he arranges the after-details. the King street car line above Thomas If you are a tourist and wish to be in- Square. This is the ideal location for terred in your own plot on the mainland, those who go to the city in the morn- Williams will embalm you ; or he will ar- ing and to the beach or golfing in the range all details for interment in Hono- afternoon. The grounds are spacious lulu. Don't leave the Paradise of the and the rates reasonable. This hotel has Pacific for any other, but if you must, let been under the same management for a your friends talk it over with Williams. ADVT. THE MID-PACIFIC 3 OAHU RAILWAY AND LAND COMPANY

Leaving Honolulu daily at 9 :15 A. M. given you three hours for luncheon and our modern gasoline motor cars take sightseeing at this most beautiful spot. you on a beautiful trip around the lee- You arrive at Honolulu at 5 :27 P. M. ward side of Oahu to Haleiwa. The train leaves Haleiwa, returning to No single trip could offer more, and Honolulu at 2:52 P. M., after having the round trip fare is only $2.45. SEE OAHU BY RAIL

Lewers and Cooke, Ltd., Iwilei Yard

Lewers & Cooke, Limited, have, since They are also agents for many build- 1852, been headquarters for all varieties ing specialties, Celotex, Colormix, Bish- of building material, lumber, hollow tile, opric Stucco, corrugated Zinc, Los cement, brick, hardwoods, oak flooring ; Angeles Pressed Brick Company prod- ,as well as tools of the leading manu- facturers, wall papers, Armstrong lino- ucts and architectural Terra Cotta, leums, domestic and oriental rugs, and David Lupton Sons Company, Steel the superior paints made by W. P. Fuller Windows, the Kawneer Company line, & Co. and prepared roofings and roofing tile. ADVT. 4 THE MID-PACIFIC

THE WORLD'S MOST DELICIOUS PINEAPPLE Canned Hawaiian Pineapple is con- cooking. It is identical with the sliced sidered by epicures to possess the finest in quality and is canned by the same flavor in the world. Because of exceed- careful sanitary methods. ingly favorable conditions in soil and Many tasty recipes for serving Ha- climate, and remarkable facilities for waiian Pineapple in delicious desserts, canning immediately the sun-ripened salads and refreshing drinks are sug- fruit, the Hawaiian product has attained gested in a recipe book obtainable with- a superiority enjoyed by no other canned out cost at the Association of Hawaiian fruit. Pineapple Canners, P. 0. Box 3166, Crushed Hawaiian Pineapple is meet- Honolulu. Readers are urged to write, ing favor because of its convenience in asking for this free book.

FERTILIZING THE SOIL Millions of dollars are spent in Hawaii fertilizing the cane and pineapple fields. The Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Com- pany, with large works and warehouses in Honolulu, imports from every part of the Globe the many ship loads of ammonia, nitrates, potash, sulphur and guano that go to make the special fertilizers needed for the varied soils and conditions of the isl- ands. Its chemists test the soils and then give the recipe for the particular blend of fertilizer that is needed. This great industry is one of the results of successful sugar planting in Hawaii, and without fertilizing, sugar growing in the Hawaiian Islands could not be successful. This company began operations in Mid- way Islands years ago, finally exhausting its guano beds, but securing others.

ADVT. THE MID-PACIFIC 5 MODERN BANKING IN HONOLULU

S. M. DAMON BLDG., HOME OF BISHOP FIRST NATIONAL BANK

The S. M. Damon Building pictured above is occupied by the Bishop First National Bank of Honolulu, successor to The Bank of Bishop & Co., Ltd., (established 1858,) The First National Bank of Hawaii at Honolulu (established 1900,) the First American Savings Bank, and the Army National Bank of Scho- field Barracks, which were consolidated on July 8, 1929. "Old Bishop," as the hank is still called, is one of the oldest west of the Rocky Mountains, and has capital funds in excess of $5,500,000, and deposits in excess of $30,000,000. Mr. A. W. T. Bottomley is chairman of the Board, and President.

The Bank of Hawaii, Limited, incor- to its other banking facilities. Its home porated in 1897, has reflected the solid, business office is at the corner of Bishop substantial growth of the islands since and King streets, and it maintains the period of annexation to the United branches on the islands of Hawaii, States. Over this period its resources have grown to be the largest of any Kauai, and Oahu, enabling it to give to financial institution in the islands. In the public an extremely efficient Banking 1899 a savings department was added Service.

ADVT. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Home Building in Ilono. ..1:u..rican Factors, Ltd., Plantation Agents and It hole∎ ale Merchants

Tasseled sugar cane almost ready for the cutting and crushing at the mills. ADVT. THE MID-PACIFIC 7 ALEXANDER & BALDWIN

A cane field in Hawaii years ago when the ox team was in use.

The firm of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., Union Insurance Society of Canton, Ltd., (known by everyone as "A. & B.") is New Zealand Insurance Co., Ltd., Switz- looked upon as one of the most progres- erland Marine Insurance Co. sive American corporations in Hawaii. The officers of this large and progres- Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are sive firm, all of whom are staunch sup- agents for the largest sugar plantations porters of the Pan-Pacific and other of the Hawaiian Islands and second movements which are for the good of largest in the world, namely, the Ha- Hawaii, are as follows : waiian Commercial & Sugar Company at Puunene, Maui. They are also agents W. M. Alexander, President ; J. Water- for many other plantations and concerns house, Vice-President ; H. A. Baldwin, of the Islands, among which are the Vice-President ; C. R. Hemenway, Vice- Maui Agricultural Company, Ltd., Ha- President ; J. P. Cooke, Treasurer ; R. T. waiian Sugar Company, McBryde Sugar Rolph, Assistant-Treasurer ; R. G. Bell, Assistant-Treasurer ; R. E. Mist, Secre- Company, Ltd., Kahului Railway Com- tary ; D. L. Oleson, Assistant-Secretary ; pany, Kauai Railway Company, Ltd., G. G. Kinney, Auditor. Directors : W. Baldwin Packers, Ltd., Kauai Fruit & M. Alexander, J. Waterhouse, H. A. Land Company, Ltd., Haleakala Ranch Baldwin, C. R. Hemenway, W. 0. Smith, Co., and Ulupalakua Ranch, Ltd. C. R. Hemenway, F. F. Baldwin, J. R. In addition to their extensive sugar Galt, H. K. Castle, E. R. Adams, R. T. plantations, they are also agents for the Rolph, S. S. Peck, J. P. Wynne, J. P. following well-known and strong in- surance companies : American Alliance Cooke. Insurance Association, Ltd., Common- Besides the home office in the Stang- wealth Insurance Company, Home In- enwald Building, Honolulu, Alexander surance Company of New York, Newark & Baldwin, Ltd., maintain offices in Fire Insurance Company, Springfield Seattle in the Melhorn Building, and in Fire and Marine Insurance Company, the Matson Building, San Francisco. ADVT. 8 T H E MID-PACIFIC

CASTLE & COOKE

The Matson Navigation Company, of the Hawaiian Islands. It acts as agent maintaining the premier ferry service for some of the most productive plan- between Honolulu and San Francisco, tations in the whole territory and has have their Hawaiian agencies with been marked by its progressive methods Castle & Cooke, Ltd., and here may be and all work connected with sugar pro- secured much varied information. Here duction in Hawaii. It occupies a spa- also the tourist may secure in the folder cious building at the corner of Merchant racks, booklets and pamphlets descrip- and Bishop Streets, Honolulu. The tive of almost every part of the great ocean. ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Matson Navi- Castle & Cooke, Ltd., is one of the gation Company. The adjoining offices oldest and most reliable firms in Hono- are used by the firm of their business lulu. It was founded in the early pioneer as sugar factors and insurance agents ; days and has been a part of the history Phone 1251.

C. BREWER & COMPANY

C. Brewer & Company, Limited, Honolulu, with a capital stock of $8,000,000, was established in 1826. It represents the following Sugar Plantations: Olowalu Company, Hilo Sugar Company, Onomea Sugar Company, Honomu Sugar Company, Wailuku Sugar Company, Pepeekeo Sugar Company, Waimanalo Sugar Company, Hakalau Plantation Company, Honolulu Plantation Company, Hawaiian Agricultural Company, Kilauea Sugar Plantation Company, Paauhau Sugar Plantation Company, Hutchinson Sugar Plantation Company, as well as the Baldwin Locomotive Works, Kapapala Ranch, and all kinds of insurance. ADVT. THE MID-PACIFIC 9

The Honolulu Construction & Draying Co., Ltd., Bishop and Halekauwila Sts., Phone 4981, dealers in crushed stone, cement, cement pipe, brick, stone tile, and explosives, have the largest and best equipped draying and storage company in the Islands, and are prepared to handle anything from the smallest package to pieces weighing up to forty tons.

The Waterhouse Co., Ltd., in the where they have been since June 1, 1925. Alexander Young Building, on Bishop The lumber yards are located at Ala street, make office equipment their spe- Moana and Ward Streets, where every cialty, being the sole distributor for the kind of hard and soft wood grown on the National Cash Register Co., the Bur- Pacific Coast is landed by steamships roughs Adding Machine, the Art Metal that ply from Puget Sound, and other Construction Co., the York Safe and Pacific and East Coast ports. Lock Company and the Underwood Bergstrom Music Company, the lead- Typewriter Co. They carry in stock ing music store in Hawaii, is located at all kinds of steel desks and other equip- 1140 Fort Street. No home is complete ment for the office, so that one might in Honolulu without an ukulele, a piano at a day's notice furnish his office, safe and a Victor talking machine. The against fire and all kinds of insects. Bergstrom Music Company, with its big Allen & Robinson have for genera- store on Fort Street, will provide you tions supplied the Hawaiian Islands with with these ; a WEBER or a Steck piano lumber and other building materials that for your mansion, or a tiny upright are used for building in Hawaii ; also Boudoir for your cottage ; and if you paints. Their office and retail department are a transient it will rent you a piano. are in their new quarters at the corner The Bergstrom Music Company, Phone of Fort and Merchant Sts., Honolulu, 2294. ADVT. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC Honolulu as Advertised

The Liberty House, Hawaii's pioneer dry goods store, established in 1850; it has grown apace with the times until today it is an institution of service rivaling the most progressive mainland establishments in the matter of its merchandising policies and business efficiency. The Mellen Associates, Successors to The Honolulu Dairymen's Associa- The Charles R. Frazier Company, old- tion supplies the pure milk used for est and most important advertising children and adults in Honolulu. It agency in the Pacific field, provide Ho- also supplies the city with ice cream nolulu and the entire Territory of Ha- for desserts. Its main office is in the waii with an advertising and publicity service of a very high order. The or- Purity Inn at Beretania and Keeaumoku ganization, under the personal direction streets. The milk of the Honolulu of George Mellen, maintains a staff of Dairymen's Association is pure, it is writers and artists of experience and rich, and it is pasteurized. The Asso- exceptional ability, and departments for ciation has had the experience of more handling all routine work connected than a generation, and it has called with placing of advertising locally, na- upon science in perfecting its plant and tionally or internationally. The organi- its methods of handling milk and de- zation is distinguished especially for livering it in sealed bottles to its cus- originality in the creation and presenta- tomers. tion of merchandising ideas. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 125 Stevedoring in Honolulu is attended Merchant Street, prints in its job depart- to by the firm of ment the Mid-Pacific Magazine, and that McCabe, Hamilton and speaks for itself. The Honolulu Star- Benny Co., Ltd., 20 South Queen Street. Bulletin, Ltd., conducts a complete com- Men of almost every Pacific race are mercial printing plant, where all the de- employed by this firm, and the men of tails of printing manufacture are per- each race seem fitted for some particular formed. It issues Hawaii's leading even- part of the work, so that quick and effi- ing newspaper and publishes many elabor- cient is the loading and unloading of ate editions of books. vessels in Honolulu. ADVT. THE MID-PACIFIC 11

On Hawaii and Maui

Twice a week the Inter-Island Steam The First Trust Company of Hilo oc- Navigation Company dispatches its pala- cupies the modern up-to-date building tial steamers, "Waialeale" and "Hualalai," adjoining the Bank of Hawaii on Keawe to Hilo, leaving Honolulu at 4 P.M. on Street. This is Hilo's financial institu- Tuesdays and Fridays, arriving at Hilo tion. It acts as trustees, executors, audit- ors, realty dealers, guardians, account- at 8 A.M. the next morning. From Hono- ants, administrators, insurance agents , lulu, the Inter-Island Company dispatches and as your stock and bond brokers. almost daily excellent passenger vessels You will need the services of the First to the island of Maui and twice a week to Trust Company in Hilo whether you are the island of Kauai. There is no finer a visitor, or whether you are to erect cruise in all the world than a visit to all a home or a business block. of the Hawaiian Islands on the steamers Hawaii Consolidated Railway, Ltd., of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Hilo, Hawaii, the Scenic Railway of Company. The head offices in Honolulu Hawaii, one of the most spectacular are on Fort at Merchant Street, where trips in the world, thirty-four miles, every information is available, or books costing nearly $4,000,000; it crosses 10 on the different islands are sent on re- sugar plantations, 150 streams, 44 quest. Tours of all the islands are ar- bridges, 14 of which are steel from 98 ranged. to 230 feet high and from 400 to 1,006 feet long, and many precipitous gorges Connected with the Inter-Island Steam lined with tropical trees, and with wa- Navigation Company is the world-famous terfalls galore ; sugar cane fields, vil- Volcano House overlooking the everlast- lages, hundreds of breadfruit and co- ing house of fire, as the crater of Hale- conut trees and palms along the way, maumau is justly named. A night's ride and miles of precipices. W. H. Huss- from Honolulu and an hour by auto- man, general freight and passenger mobile, and you are at the Volcano agent. House in the Hawaii National Park on with the Island of Hawaii, the only truly his- The Haleakala Ranch Company, head offices at Makawao, on the Island toric caravansary of the Hawaiian Islands. of Maui, is as its name indicates, a There are other excellent hotels on the cattle ranch on the slopes of the great Island of Hawaii, the largest of the mountain of Haleakala, rising 10,000 group, including the recently constructed feet above the sea. This ranch breeds Kona Inn, located at Kailua on the Kona pure Hereford cattle and is looking to a future when it will supply fine bred Coast—the most primitive and historic cattle to the markets and breeders in district in Hawaii. Hawaii. Building on the Island of Hawaii.— which is conducted The Hawaiian Contracting Company The Paia Store, maintains working offices at the great by the Maui Agricultural Co., Ltd., is managed by Fred P. Rosecrans. This Hilo pier, where all steamers discharge their freight for Hilo and the big island. is one of the very big plantation de- This concern, with branches throughout partment stores in Hawaii. Every con- the Territory, has for its aim building ceivable need of the housekeeper or for permanency. It contracts for build- homemaker is kept in stock. The store ings and highway construction, having a covers an area of more than a city block in a metropolitan city, and is the corps of construction experts at its com- mand. In Hilo, Frank H. West is in department store adapted to the needs of modern sugar plantation life. charge of the company's affairs.

ADVT. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC Business in Honolulu The Hawaiian Trust Company, L ited, of Honolulu, is the oldest im- owned and occupied by the Bishop and Trust Company, Ltd., and the Bank of largest trust company in the Territ ory Bishop & Co., Ltd. One of the many of Hawaii. How successful it has be- attractive features of its new quarters is come may be gathered from the fact that it has real and personal prop he Safe Deposit Vaults, which are erty the largest, strongest and most conven- under its control and management w ith ient in the Territory. a conservative, approximate value of $50,000,000. The resources of this or- The Pacific Engineering Company, ganization as of Dec. 31, 1927, amoun ted Ltd., construction engineers and general to $3,718,923.49, with a capital stock of contractors, is splendidly equipped to $1,250,000.00; surplus, $1,000,000.00; handle all types of building construc- special reserve, $50,000, and undivi ded tion, and execute building projects in profits, $81,408.95, making the total sur- minimum time and to the utmost satis- plus of resources over liabilities $2,381,- faction of the owner. The main offices 408.95. The full significance of these fig- are in the Yokohama Specie Bank ures will appear when it is remembered Building, with its mill and factory at that the laws of Hawaii provide that a South Street. Many of the leading busi- Trust Company may not transact a bank- ness buildings in Honolulu have been ing business. Mr. E. D. Tenney is pres- constructed under the direction of the ident and chairman of the board and Mr. Pacific Engineering Company. J. R. Galt is senior vice-president and manager. Wright, Harvey & Wright, engineers in the Damon Building, have a branch The International Trust Company, office and blue print shop at 855 Kaahu- with offices on Merchant street, is, as manu Street. This firm does a general its name indicates, a really Pan-Pacific surveying and engineering business, and financial organization, with leading has information pertaining to practical- American and Oriental business men ly all lands in the group, as this firm conducting its affairs. Its capital stock has done an immense amount of work is $200,000 with resources of over throughout the islands. The blue print $500,000. It is the general agent for department turns out more than fifty the John Hancock Mutual Life Insur- per cent of the blueprinting done in Honolulu. ance Company of Boston, and other in- surance companies. The von Hamm-Young Co., Ltd., Im- porters, Machinery Merchants, and lead- The Henry Waterhouse Trust Co., ing automobile dealers, have their offices Ltd., was established in 1897 by Henry and store in the Alexander Young Waterhouse, son of a pioneer, incor- Building, at the corner of King and porated under the present name in 1902, Bishop streets, and their magnificent Mr. Robert Shingle becoming president, automobile salesroom and garage just and Mr. A. N. Campbell treasurer of in the rear, facing on Alakea Street. the corporation. The company now has Here one may find almost anything. a paid-up capital of $200,000 and a sur- Phone No. 6141. plus of an almost equal amount. The The Chrysler Four and Six-Cylinder spacious quarters occupied by the Henry Cars, the culmination of all past ex- Waterhouse Trust Co., Ltd., are on the periences in building automobiles, is corner of Fort and Merchant streets. represented in Hawaii by the Honolulu The Bishop Trust Company, Limited, Motors, Ltd., 850 S. Beretania street. is one of the oldest and largest Trust The prices of Four-Cylinder Cars range from $1200 to $1445 and those of the Companies in Hawaii. It now shares with the Bishop Bank its new home on Six from $1745 to $2500. The Chryslers are meeting with remarkable sales rec- Bishop, King and Merchant Sts., known ords as a distinct departure in motor as the S. M. Damon Building, jointly cars. ADVT. THE MID-PACIFIC 13

The Hawaiian Electric Co., Ltd., with There is one East Indian Store in Ho- a power station generating capacity of nolulu, and it has grown to occupy spa- 32,000 K.W., furnishes lighting and cious quarters on Fort Street, No. 1150 power service to Honolulu and to the Fort, Phone No. 2571. This is the head- entire island of Oahu. It also maintains quarters for Oriental and East Indian its cold storage and ice-making plant, curios as well as of Philippine embroid- supplying the city with ice for home eries, home-made laces, Manila hats, consumption. The firm acts as electrical Oriental silks, pongees, carved ivories contractors, cold storage, warehousemen and Indian brass ware. An hour may and deals in all kinds of electrical sup- well be spent in this East Indian Bazaar plies, completely wiring and equipping examining the art wares of Oriental buildings and private residences. Its beauty. splendid new offices facing the civic center are now completed and form one The Royal Hawaiian Sales Co., of the architectural ornaments to the city. with agencies in Honolulu, Hilo and Wailuku, has its spacious headquarters Bailey's Groceteria is the big success on Hotel and Alakea streets, Honolulu. of recent years in Honolulu business. This Company is Territorial Distributors The parent store at the corner of Queen for Star and Auburn passenger cars. and Richards Streets has added both a They are Territorial Distributors also meat market and a bakery, while the for International Motor Trucks, Delco- newly constructed branch building at Remy service and Goodyear Tires. Beretania and Piikoi is equally well equipped and supplied, so that the The Universal Motor Co., Ltd., with housekeeper can select all that is needed spacious new buildings at 444 S. Bere- in the home, or, in fact, phone her tania street, Phone 2397, is agent for order to either house. the Ford car. All spare parts are kept in stock and statements of cost of re- The Rycroft Arctic Soda Company, pairs and replacements are given in ad- on Sheridan Street, furnishes the high vance so that you know just what the grade soft drinks for Honolulu and amount will be. The Ford is in a class Hawaii. It manufactures the highest by itself. The most economical and grade ginger ale—Hawaiian Dry—from least expensive motor car in the world. the fresh roots of the native ginger. It uses clear water from its own artesian well, makes its carbonated gas from Hawaiian pineapples at the most up-to- date soda works in the Territory of Hawaii.

A monument to the pluck and energy of Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the City Mill Company, of which he is treasurer and manager. This plant at Queen and Kekaulike streets is one of Honolulu's leading enterprises, doing a flourishing lumber and mill business.

ADVT. 14 THE MID-PACIFIC

I Wonderful New Zealand I Scenically New Zealand is the world's wonderland. There is no other place in the world that offers such an aggrega- tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are in every way more magnificent and awe- inspiring than are the fjords of Norway. New Zealand was the first country to perfect the government tourist bureau. She has built hotels and rest houses throughout the Dominion for the bene- fit of the tourist. New Zealand is splen- didly served by the Government Rail- ways, which sell the tourist for a very low rate, a ticket that entitles him to travel on any of the railways for from one to two months. Direct information may be secured by writing to the New Zealand Department of Tourist and Health Resorts, Wellington, New Zealand. An ancient Maori stockade SOUTH MANCHURIA RAILWAY COMPANY

South Manchuria Railway Company Cheap Overland Tours

Travellers and Tourists journeying between Tokyo and Peking should Modern Hotels under the South Man- travel via the South Manchuria Rail- churia Hotel Company's management are way, which runs from Antung to Muk- established on foreign lines at Mukden, den and passes through magnificent Changchun, Port Arthur, Dairen and scenery. At Mukden the line connects Hoshigaura (Star Beach). with the Peking Mukden • Line and the Main line of the South Manchuria Rail- Illustrated booklets and all informa- way, running from Dairen to Chang- tion post free on request from the South chun, where connection is made with Manchuria Railway Company. the Chinese Eastern Railway for Har- bin. DAIREN The ordinary daily trains have sleep- Branch Offices : Tokyo, Osaka, Shi- ing accommodation. Steamer connec- monoseki, Shanghai, Peking, Harbin tions between Dairen, Tsingtao and and New York. Shanghai by the Dairen Kisen Kaisha's excellent passenger and mail steamers. Cable Address : "MANTETSU" or Wireless telegraphy and qualified doc- "SMRCO." CODES : A.B.C. 5th, 6th tors on board. Ed., Al., Lieber's, Bentley's and Acme.

ADVT. THE MID-PACIFIC 15

The Los Angeles Steamship Company visitors are welcomed to the gardens at maintains a weekly palatial fast steam- all times. Adjoining these gardens are ship service between Honolulu and Los the wonderful Liliuokalani gardens and Angeles. Its steamers also visit Hilo, the series of waterfalls. Phone 5611. Hawaii, permitting a visit to the Vol- cano. This is the tourist line par excellence to Hawaii, and through tick- Burgess & Johnson, Ltd., now occupy ets may be booked in any city of the their new building at the corner of King United States. Stopovers in Honolulu and Alakea Streets. Here are displayed by Australasian and Oriental travellers the machines for which they are agents, may be made with rebookings from Ho- —the New Hupmobile Century Eight, nolulu to Los Angeles by this line. as well as the Marmon, both outstanding cars that are becoming better known and used in Hawaii. The Matson Navigation Company, the pride of Hawaii, maintains regular The firm still maintains its repair shop weekly ocean greyhound service be- on Beretania Street, but at the new loca- tween Honolulu and San Francisco. It tion on King and Alakea the new dis- has recently inaugurated a Honolulu, play rooms located at the very cross- Portland, Seattle fast steamer service roads of Honolulu's human traffic offer and is building new palatial greyhounds a tempting invitation to anyone to enter for its San Francisco, Honolulu, Aus- and examine the latest there is in auto tralasian passenger and freight service. cars.

Benson Smith's pharmacy is located Honolulu Paper Company, Honolulu's at Honolulu's business corner, Fort and largest and most up-to-date book and stationery store, located on the ground Hotel Streets. Here the prescriptions floor of the Alexander Young Building, of the medicos are carefully prepared carries the best selected stock of books and here all the latest magazines may be in the territory, and makes a specialty procured. Sodawater and candies may of handling books relating to Hawaii. be enjoyed at Benson Smith's, Hono- The latest in stationery may be obtained lulu's oldest and most reliable drug in the fancy stationery department, to- store. gether with general stationery supplies. This firm is agent for the Royal Type- Jeff's Fashion Company, Incorporated, writer, both Standard and Portable, and at Fort and Beretania Streets, is Hono- carries a full line of Marchant Calcula- lulu's leading establishment for women ters and Sunstrand Adding Machines as who set the pace in modern dress. At well as a complete line of steel office "Jeff's" the fashions in woman's dress furniture. in Honolulu are set. Here the resident and tourist may outfit and be sure of acquiring the latest styles. "Jeff's" has The Office Supply Co., Ltd., on Fort its branch and a work shop in New street near King, is, as its name denotes, York City. the perfectly equipped store where every kind of office furniture and supplies are on display. This is the home of the Ishii's Gardens, Pan-Pacific Park, on Remington typewriter and of typewriter Kuakini Street, near Nuuanu Avenue, repairing. Offices are completely out- constitute one of the finest Japanese tea fitted at quickest notice. The Company gardens imaginable. Here some wonder- also maintains an up-to-date completely ful Japanese dinners are served, and stocked sporting goods department.

ADVT. 16 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Outrigger Canoe Club at Waikiki is the only surfboard riding club in the world. It is open to monthly membership to tourists and visitors.

Gray's By-the-Sea is the wonderfully The Sweet Shop is the name of the located seaside hotel at Waikiki where leading downtown popular-priced res- the very best sea bathing is right at the taurant, opposite the Young Hotel on door ; you put on your bathing suit in Hotel Street and adjoining the Central your own room. The rates are moderate, Y. M. C. A. On the street floor is the and in the main building all are outside main restaurant, soda and candy coun- rooms. There are a number of cottages ter, while downstairs is the cozy "Den," on the grounds. You should visit Gray's popular as a luncheon meeting-place for Beach first. American plan, excellent clubs and small groups that wish to cuisine. confer in quietude.

The Pleasanton Hotel, at the corner of Dominis and Punahou Streets, was The Consolidated Amusement Com- the home of Jane Addams during the pany brings the latest drama films to Pan-Pacific Women's Conference. It in- Hawaii to provide evening entertain- vites the delegates to all the confer- ment. Its leading theatres are the New ences called by the Pan-Pacific Union to Princess on Fort Street and the palatial correspond. There are spacious cot- Hawaii Theatre nearer the business dis- tages on the grounds, tea roms and trict. Those and the outlying theatres wide grounds. The rates are reasonable, served by the Consolidated Amusement. either American or European plan. The Company keep the people of Honolulu Pleasanton is a pleasant home while in and its visiting hosts entertained, Honolulu. matinee and evening. Phone for seats.

AD VT. Sailing in Auckland Harbor