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AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER Number 25 May 2002

The AMCS Activities Newsletter is published by the Association for Mexican Studies, a Project of the National Speleological Society. The AMCS is an informal, nonprofit group dedicated to the exploration, study, and conservation of the of .

The Activities Newsletter seeks articles and news items on all Front cover significant exploration and research activities in the caves of Mexico. The editor may be contacted at the address below or Humberto Delgrado at [email protected]. Text and graphics may be submit- among the giant ted on paper, or consult the editor for acceptable formats in the mine at for electronic submission. Exceptional color photographs for Naica, . the covers are also sought. They need not pertain to articles in Photo by Carlos Lazcano. the issue, but the original slide or negative must be available for professional scanning. Back cover This issue was edited by Bill Mixon, with help from Maureen Cavanaugh, Ramón Espinasa, Sergio Sanchez-Armass, and gear inside the Jack “Solo” White. Infiernillo entrance to Sistema Purificación. All previous issues of the Activities Newsletter are available, Photo by Bill Stone. as are various other publications on the caves of Mexico. Con- tact [email protected], see www.amcs-pubs.org, or write the address below.

ASSOCIATION FOR MEXICAN CAVE STUDIES BOX 7672 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78713 www.amcs-pubs.org

© 2002 AMCS All rights reserved Printed in the of America AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

CONTENTS

4 authors’ addresses 5 Mexico News 18 long and deep caves lists 20 deep pits list

21 Cerro Rabón 1995–2000 Karlin Meyers 34 Tabasco 2001 Bob Stucklen with a contribution by Jim Pisarowicz 40 The Exploration of Bil Phillips 47 Where Does the Sewage Go? Patricia Beddows 53 2001 InnerSpace Odyssey Expedition Bev Shade and Bill Stone with contributions by Jason Mallinson and 72 Cueva de los Cristales Carlos Lazcano Sahagún 78 A New Map of Sac Actun, Bil Phillips 81 Searching for Caves near El Cielo, Tamaulipas Gerald Moni 95 Recent Field Investigations of Blind Astyanax Jean Krejca 101 The Long Crawl Terri Treacy 104 The Black Hole of Coahuila Peter Sprouse 106 Mixtlancingo: The River of the Underworld Ramón Espinasa-Pereña 114 Grutas de los Ríos San Jeronimo and Chontalcuatlan Chris Lloyd 119 Accident Report: Resumidero La Joya, Guerrero Ramón Espinasa-Pereña 122 Zacatón Update Marcus Gary 124 Cave- Courses in Mexico Antonio Aguirre Alvárez with a contribution by John Pint 126 The Yucatan Deep Speleological Dive Team Andreas Matthes 130 Some Quintana Roo Diving Adventures Fred Devos and Christophe Le Maillot 135 Proyecto Espeleológico Sierra Oxmolón Jerry Fant 146 Filo de Caballo, Guerrero Ramón Espinasa-Pereña AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

AUTHORS IN THIS ISSUE

Antonio Aguirre Alvárez Christophe Le Maillot David Roemer Leon García 735-2 PO Box 14 Carlsbad Caverns National Park Barrio de San Miguelito , Quintana Roo 77750 3225 National Parks Highway San Luis Potosí, San Luis Potosí 78330 Mexico Carlsbad, 88220 Mexico [email protected] [email protected]

Patricia Beddows Chris Lloyd Carlos Lazcano Sahagún Carbonate Processes and Palaeo- Teotehuacan 1661 2202 environments Group Pinar de la Calma Jardines del Santaurio University of Bristol Zapopan, Jalisco 54080 Chihuahua, Chihuahua 31280 Bristol BS8 1SS Mexico Mexico [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Andreas Matthes Bev Shade Fred Devos PO Box 397 8427 Old Lockhart Road PO Box 14 , Quintana Roo 77710 Muldoon, Texas 78949 Puerto Aventuras, Quintana Roo 77750 Mexico [email protected] Mexico [email protected] [email protected] Peter Sprouse Karlin Meyers PO Box 8424 Ramón Espinasa Pereña Neusatzweg 13 Austin, Texas 78713 Ingenieros No 29 Binningen CH-4102 [email protected] Col. Escandón Mexico, D. F. 11800 [email protected] Bill Stone Mexico 18912 Glendower Road [email protected] Gerald Moni Gaithersburg, 20879 2330 Rader Ridge Road [email protected] Jerry Fant Antioch, 37013 21 Gold Rush Circle [email protected] Bob Stucklen Wimberly, Texas 78676 3349 Chestnut Avenue [email protected] Bil Phillips Loveland, Colorado 80538 Speleotech [email protected] Marcus Gary PO Box 153 300 West Mockingbird Lane Tulúm, Quintana Roo 77780 Terri Treacy Austin, Texas 78745 Mexico 2993 Dutch Ridge Road [email protected] Carbondale, Illinois 62901 John Pint [email protected] Jean Krejca [email protected] 4806 Savorey Lane Austin, Texas 78744 Jim Pisarowicz [email protected] 343 North 9 Street Custer, South Dakota 57730 [email protected]

4 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 MEXICO NEWS Compiled by Bill Mixon

on the highway to Ojinaga. The en- fun, and it is complicated enough CHIHUAHUA trance is a little above the actual that you never take the same route At the end of 2000, the govern- drain. The collapse that gives the through it twice. Every loop had ment of the city of Chihuahua cave its name to a wide, de- knee-deep flowing water, and one opened to the public the famous scending gallery about 100 meters caver had his pack float away while Cueva de Nombre de Dios, close long, with some . The he was reading the instruments. to the city at the edge of the neigh- floor is mostly breakdown that re- Another team recovered it several borhood with the same name. The quires careful movement. Near the hundred meters downstream. cave was known in the city and end, there’s a bat roost full of guano, After completing the maze, all frequently visited by small groups. and at the end there’s a large, mud- five teams leapfrogged down the During the development of the covered collapse. Between the canyon passage, where the stream cave, it was explored and surveyed. blocks, they found a pit 5.7 meters tumbled down several short water- It is almost 2 kilometers long and is deep that passes into a bed of white falls. At the point where we stopped, 95 meters deep. Now there are two , making it very pretty. Be- the cave continues, but there is a show caves in the state. Five years low is a short walk to a crawlway low airspace that will be better done ago, Cueva de Coyame, about 140 about 10 meters long that leads to in drier times. Source: Peter Sprouse. kilometers from Chihuahua on the 20 or 30 meters more of mud- highway to Ojinaga, was opened. floored passage to a . Other During Thanksgiving weekend There are plans to open Cueva del caves in the area include Cueva del 2001, a return was made to Sótano Diablo, near Parral in the southern Macho, around 60 meters long, de Amezcua. The cave was pushed end of the state. Source: Carlos Cueva de las , and Cueva del on two fronts, upstream and down- Lazcano. Puerto, which has a narrow en- stream. Two dives downstream trance with a lot of air movement. pushed through approximately 150 During the period 1995–2001, Source: Carlos Lazcano. meters of underwater passage. Carlos Lazcano made numerous Upstream, beyond previously ex- trips to the northern part of the Si- COAHUILA plored sumps 1 and 2 and the 200 erra Tarahumara, mainly to the On June 17, 2001, nineteen cavers meters of boot-sucking mud be- Madera area. He systematically ex- from Austin and San Antonio, tween them, survey continued plored canyons such as those of the Texas, surveyed to 1764 through virgin sump 3 to roughly Río Chico and the Huapoca, deeper meters, making it the longest in 800 meters of walking . A than the Grand Canyon of Arizona, Coahuila. This cave is located on a blind that had been marked and he located more than a hundred large ranch in the Sierra del Burro, in June 1998 was recaptured between caves with adobe structures from in the floor of a large canyon. This sumps 3 and 4. Other recapture data the thousand-year-old, extinct was the third survey trip to the cave. were obtained at the sumps in the Paquimé culture. Results of the in- The hole in the canyon floor drops main room, and a dozen new fish vestigations may be published as an into a stream, which was a rushing were marked. Isopods were col- AMCS Bulletin. Source: Carlos river that came halfway up the log lected for genetic studies. While the Lazcano. ladder because of a recent rain. By divers were pushing the cave, other the next day, the level had dropped, cavers found and mapped three In August 2000, Carlos Lazcano, and five survey teams entered the other pits in the area. Source: Jean Claude Chabert, and Nicky Boullier cave. One found an upstream sump Krejca in Texas Caver, December explored El Hundido, a wide drain after only 50 meters. The rest went 2001. for a large valley near the downstream to continue mapping community of La Perla, about one in the maze area, where exploration The Italian cavers of the La Venta hundred kilometers from Camargo had ended in April. The maze was Associazione Culturale Esplorazioni

5 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

to another sump. A high, overflow passage was found that led to a chamber with two pit leads. Rigging the one with the sound of water at the bottom, we rejoined the stream and followed it past a near-sump to a large passage where a bigger stream came in. The combined wa- ters enter a final sump filled with very active cave-adapted fish (Rhamdia?). The incoming stream was followed up to a sump, but lack of time prevented proper investiga- tion of other leads, including the other pit in the overflow passage, which takes some air. Total survey so far is 471 meters. Source: Ramón Espinasa.

Mexpeleo 2002 will be held De- cember 26 to 30 in Acahuizotla, Guerrero. It is sponsored by the AMCS and the Sociedad Mexicana de Exploraciones Subterráneas. See site smes_web.tripod.com/ mexpeleo2000.html. MORELOS According to a Reuters dispatch of June 14, 2001, farmers in Chima- lacatlan found large bones while digging in Cueva Encantada above the village. They were trying to channel water from a as a water source for the village. INAH officials believe the bones are mam- moth bones, because a similar find was made in the area twenty years ago. NUEVO LEÓN Geografiche, the same group that Pozo de Montemayor was ex- explored caves in and near the Río GUERRERO plored to a depth of nearly 500 La Venta canyon in Chiapas (see In the area of Acahuizotla, where meters in the years around 1990, but “Mexico News,” AMCS Activities Mexpeleo 2002 will be held in late the foldout map printed here has Newsletter 23 and the review of their December, a new stream sink, not been previously published. Ar- book on the area in number 24), has known as El Garbanzal, has been ticles on the exploration of Monte- been exploring in the vicinity of explored by cavers of the Sociedad mayor appear in AMCS Activities Cuatro Ciénegas. In November Mexicana Exploraciones Subterrá- Newsletter 18, by Bill Steele, and 19, 1998 and May 1999 they located and neas. The actual sink produced only by Joe Ivy. partially explored many caves in 218 meters of survey, with only one the valley and surrounding moun- left, but farther down the val- Five cavers did a surface traverse tains, with 5 kilometers of passage ley another doline was checked and of Cañón de Infierno, from 1700 seen. The project continues, with a found to contain a pit that went meters elevation above Zaragoza, narrative on their web site of an ex- straight down to water. Upstream, Nuevo León, to 474 meters at Los pedition in October and November the water came from a narrow crev- Angeles, Tamaulipas. They were 2001. Source: www.laventa.it/en/ ice heading toward El Garbanzal. looking for cave entrances in the 4C-index.html. Downstream, the river immediately upper part of the canyon that might entered a sump that turned out to be the resurgence for the Sistema be short and easy to pass. On the Cretácico and other caves in the other side, a sporting passage led Park area. During their

6 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 eight days in the canyon, they found 31, 21, 10, and 41 meters to another four caves, some inaccessible from OAXACA drop, about 18 meters, that was not the canyon floor. One had a 20- A group of thirteen American descended because they were out of meter-diameter entrance and sloped cavers, mainly from Colorado, vis- rope. Source: Mike Frazier. downward for 110 meters to a ited the Cerro Rabón in February sump. A high-water mark is obvi- 2001. The main goal was to explore Beyond the Deep: The Deadly De- ous at the entrance, and the cave the largely unexplored southern scent in the World’s Most Treacherous might be the resurgence. Source: part of the plateau, dubbed Terra Cave, by Bill Stone and Barbara am Jonathan Wilson in Death Coral Incognito. From base camp in San Ende, with, as they say, Monte Caver 11, 2001. Martín Caballero, a remote jungle Paulsen, is scheduled to be pub- camp was established in Terra In- lished in July 2002 by AOL Time Eleven cavers from the United cognito, where Cueva de Arañas Warner. It is the story of the 1994 States and Mexico prospected for Negras was explored and surveyed. San Agustín expedition during caves around Cerro el Viejo in July Many short, blind pits were found which Bill and Barb explored kilo- 2000. They found a number of small at the northern edge of the area. meters of new cave beyond the pits around La Escondida and North from base camp, Nita Cein, sump at the previous bottom of looked for leads in Cueva de Más an 80-meter pit, was found. Source: Sótano de San Agustín, Sistema Cable and Pozo del Primero de Todd in NSS News, April Huautla. It will be interesting to Septiembre. (The map of Más 2002. compare this with the article on the Cable appears in “Mexico News” in expedition by the same two authors AMCS Activities Newsletter 22.) Dur- Five cavers from Colorado re- that appeared in AMCS Activities ing an ascent of 3500-meter Cerro turned to the Cerro Rabón in Feb- Newsletter 21. el Viejo, they discovered 71-meter- ruary 2002. During very rainy deep Sima el Viejo. At the end of weather, they worked out of Ayautla, The Cueva y Nacimiento Agua the trip they looked at a large open- since politics were very bad at San Fría de Mazatlán, the foldout map air pit near Pablillo. Source: Gustavo Martín Caballero, the usual caver of which appears here, was ex- Vela Turcott in Death Coral Caver 11, base. Among the caves surveyed plored in 1995 and 1997. See the Río 2001. were Ha Goothu, where a small Tuerto Expedition report in AMCS stream disappears into a boulder Activities Newsletter 22 and, briefly, pile with a lot of air, and Ha Ami- “Mexico News” in number 23. gos, a large cave with drops of 25,

7 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

8

AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Xalltégoxtli. (The connection be- on previous expeditions. The po- PUEBLA tween Ehécatl and Xalltégoxtli is tential for adding more length and The British cavers who have been described in an article in AMCS depth is great, and we hope to con- exploring caves in the Cuetzalan Activities Newsletter 24.) The com- tinue this joint effort. Source: Ramón area have created a web site with bination, taking the name Sistema Espinasa and Marc Tremblay. expedition reports, maps, and other Tepepa of the TP4-13 part, is over information. See www.vale.org.uk/ 24 kilometers in total length and at QUINTANA ROO caves/cuetzalan. least 880 meters deep, according to Angelina is located a few field calculations. There are two kilometers south of Tulúm. A dense In April 2002, a joint Sociedad independent routes, each over 10 hydrogen-sulfide layer occurs at the Mexicana Exploraciones Subterrá- kilometers long and 800 meters at –30 meters. A tree-limb- neas–Société Québécoise de Spéléo- deep. The connection was estab- covered debris cone barely pierces logie expedition to the Sierra Negra lished at the upper parts of both the halocline and extends down- succeeded in establishing a connec- systems by a mixed team from both ward. The lowest point where the tion between Sistema de Niebla groups, although it was mostly due cone intersects the wall is at a (TP4-13) and Sistema Ehécatl- to the work of the québécois cavers depth of 62 meters. A cross-section diagram of the cave appears in Ad- vanced Diver Magazine 11, March 2002.

A cable-television film was shot in the Cenote Pet Cemetery area of Sistema Nohoch Nah Chich dur- ing November 8–15, 2001. Wes Skiles was the photographer, with assistance from Jill and Paul Hein- erth and logistical support from Buddy Quattlebaum. The episode is called “Dreamchasers” and fea- tures cave diver Michael Kane of California. In January 2002, a Ger- man crew filmed another TV docu- mentary in Sistema Tuhs Xubaxa Aktun, based at Cenote Nai Tutha. Source: Steve Gerrard in Cave Div- ing News of the , March 2002.

Cave-diving biologist Jill Yager has received a Fulbright grant that will enable her to live in and conduct nine months of studies on the biology and water chemistry of Sistema Crustecea, Sistema Taj Mahal, and Sistema Chac Mol. Many will recall that Jill Yager discovered a new aquatic ani- mal in a cave in that was not only a new genus and spe- cies, but also a new family and class (or subclass): Remipedia, Speleo- nectidae Speleonectes lucayensis. Remipedes have since been found in other anchialine caves, including some in the Yucatan Peninsula. Source: Steve Gerrard in Cave Div- ing News of the Riviera Maya, March 2002.

Nancy DeRosa and others have founded the Society of ’s

11 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

12 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

13 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Vital Ecology (SAVE) to protect the Azul is 75 meters deep, mainland. A completely white star- and resources II is 33 meters deep, Blue Hole III fish, Paxillasterina pompom, is found along the Caribbean coast of Quin- is 49 meters deep, and Myrna’s in the caves of . It is other- tana Roo, the area called the Riviera Blue Hole is 53 meters deep. Other wise known only from the Atlantic Maya. (See also article in this issue.) caves explored include one 50 coast of Panama. Source: Tom Illiffe Deliberate sewage discharge and meters offshore in the Caribbean in Advanced Diver Magazine 11, garbage dumps threaten the water. Sea with 60 meters of passage, the March 2002. The organization has a web site at only thing found that had any flow, www.saverivieramaya.org. Source: and (yet another) Pozo Azul, right First discovered and explored in Nancy DeRosa in Underwater Spele- on the river that separates Mexico March 1997 by German Gunnar ology, December 2001. and , near the village of La Wagner and Belgian Thiery Memi- Union, that turned out to be a sink- met, the Tuhs Xubaxa Aktun sys- Sistema Aerolito de Paraíso on hole 17 meters deep. Source: Andreas tem (or Tuhx Cubaka Aktun—the Isla de Cozumel is reported to have Matthes in Underwater , of Mayan names) presently over 18 kilometers of underwater May 2001. consists of 10.9 kilometers of pas- passage. A map of the cave appears sages connecting twenty cenotes. A in Advanced Diver Magazine 11, The island of Cozumel is sepa- jaw with teeth and many other March 2002. rated from the mainland of Quin- mastodon bones were found in the tana Roo by a deep channel, so a cave in February 2000. Source: Steve Laguna is a long, narrow shallow-water connection has never Gerrard in News of the fresh-water lagoon just inland from existed. The caves of Cozumel con- Riviera Maya, March 2002. and just north of the bor- tain species not found on the main- der with Belize. A flight over the land, including five species of SAN LUIS POTOSÍ lagoon showed four blue holes. shrimp and a new genus of cope- Cavers attempting to visit Resu- Proyecto Bacalar 2001 checked pod. Only one amphipod and one midero El Borbollón and Cueva these and found that all are old cirolanid isopod are common to del Tízar in November 2001 were filled at the bottom. Pozo caves on Cozumel and on the turned back by bad air. At Puerto

14 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

de Los Lobos, they found a huge swarm of bees. Source: Andy Harris in Texas Caver, December 2001.

In 2000, cavers of the new Proyecto Espeleológico Oxmolón began in- vestigating caves in the vicinity of La Brecha, near Aquismón. Their trips and a number of caves are de- scribed in a project report published in January 2001. It includes maps of Sótano del Cañón Barba, Sótano de Chuchumbex, and Sótano Cerca Talabja. Subsequent trips are de- scribed in an article in this issue. TABASCO Among the caves in the Parque Estatal de Agua Blanca in southern Tabasco are Gruta de Murallón, an archaeological site, and Ixtac-Ja, partly improved for tourists. A somewhat confusing article on the area appears in the NSS News, Janu- ary 2002. TAMAULIPAS In an expedition over New Years 2001, cavers visited three parts of the Proyecto Espeleológico Purifi- cación area. During the first week, they explored and mapped 1716 meters of new passages in the Con- fusion Tubes in Sistema Purifica- ción, working from Camp I near the Infiernillo entrance. See also Terri Treacy’s article in this issue. During the second week, they looked for new entrances in the vicinity of their fieldhouse in Conrado Castillo and the high ridges above Revilla, finding twenty pits, including Pozo The cave is divided into a South Diamante de Kirsten, 102 meters YUCATÁN Maze area, which is completely sur- deep, and Cueva Jardin, 113 meters. Actun Kaua is located under the veyed, and a North Maze. In trying Source: Pat Shaw and Dale Chase in town of Kaua, which is roughly to delineate the outer extent of the Death Coral Caver 11, 2001. midway between Valladolid and maze, McKenzie and Reddell ex- . David McKenzie and tended two survey branches out Additional pushes in Sótano de James Reddell began the survey of from the North Maze. One led Caracol, near Revilla, occurred over the cave in 1974 and 1975 and about 200 meters west into what is December 2001 and March 2002. mapped about 6.8 kilometers of called the West Maze, which con- (See InnerSpace Odyssey article in maze. This complex cave served as tains dozens of branching passages. this issue and “Mexico News,” inspiration to McKenzie to develop The other survey extended north AMCS Activities Newsletter 22.) Ap- the Walls computer program for from the northeast end of the North proximately 400 meters of new cave cave-survey-data processing and Maze, further delimiting the eastern was found and surveyed, but the plotting. It can statistically examine edge of the cave, then cut southwest water and air both disappear through survey data and determine where through a maze area to connect to impassable cracks. The new length blunders and systematic errors are where the North and West mazes is 1044 meters, and the depth is very most likely to be present in a survey, join. This survey formed a loop that slightly over 300 meters. Source: Bill and thus also identify the areas of a encompassed what appeared to be Stone and Bev Shade. survey that are effectively error- a complicated portion of the cave. free. In 1994, Peter Sprouse led a

15 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 group to Actun Kaua, and two found, although some possible un- multitudes of loops that occur in teams surveyed within this loop. derwater passages were seen. between. Actun Kaua currently has One systematically surveyed maze Three of the five intersect a surveyed length of 9.4 kilometers, loops at its west end, and the other Actun Kaua, and the other two were a depth of 25.8 meters, and 453 sur- cut a west-to-east route through the rumored to intersect it. One of those veyed loops. Source: George Veni. middle of the maze and did some two was descended, and no connec- spray shots in the larger areas. To- tion was found; the other well prob- The archaeological site Dzibil- gether they surveyed about 750 ably does not intersect the cave, chaltun is located about 3 kilome- meters. based on the map. The wells are all ters north of Mérida. Michael and From December 23, 2001, to Janu- about 1 meter in diameter and are Sherry Garman, Alex Warren, Jitka ary 11, 2002, David McKenzie led located next to homes. Villagers re- Hyniova, and Jakub Rohacek have another group to the cave with the ported that lost locals and gringos surveyed the underwater cave at primary objective to complete fill- exploring the labyrinth have found Cenote Xlacah there for a distance ing in the maze within that North some of the wells inside the cave of about 900 meters. The water Maze loop. He was accompanied and yelled until someone on the depth is 63 meters at their farthest for two to three weeks by Allan surface heard them and pulled point. Source: Michael Garman in Cobb, Orion Knox, Linda Palit, and them up with a rope. Advanced Diver Magazine 11, March George Veni. James Reddell and Plans to return to Kaua are in 2002. Marcelino Reyes were present dur- progress. Objectives will be to fur- ing much of that time, but focused ther define the outer boundaries of Cave divers conducted the on checking leads elsewhere in the the complex and then fill in the Yucatán 2001 project in two stages, area and found several interesting caves. It turned out that the North Maze loop encompasses the most compli- cated part of the cave surveyed to date. Much of the passage is less than a meter high, and survey shots were often less than 3 meters long. Each night the survey data were entered into Walls, and any errors or questionable sections of survey were checked in the cave and cor- rected the next day to produce a high-precision survey. Because of the of the passages and qual- ity sought for the survey, consider- able time and effort were needed in this area, which is only 100 meters long by 30 to 80 meters wide. On average, a typical eight-hour survey day yielded 150 to 200 meters of passage within areas that are only 30 to 40 meters long by 10 to 15 meters wide. By the end of trip, this part of the North Maze was com- plete, except for one small section, and was found to contain 2.5 kilo- meters of passages and 181 loops. In addition to the cave surveys, 3.3 kilometers of surface surveys were done, tying the cave to two cenotes and five wells. Both cenotes in town are said to lead to caves, with one supposedly connecting to Actun Kaua. Cenote Ya’ax-Ek is within a city park and has a trail leading down to a 7-meter-long cave to water. Cenote Chuycab re- quired a 14-meter rappel to water, but no air-filled passages were

16 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 both based in Homun, about 50 gas diving will be necessary to tion of 90 meters. Cenote Tuchen kilometers southeast of Mérida. check this. The second stage, the has a large entrance room from During the first stage, March 27 to first week in June, made two signifi- which underwater passage goes April 1, twenty-eight cenotes were cant discoveries. Och 1 begins with past an air-filled room and another found and cataloged. Many of them a 15-meter rappel to the water. Be- large room and ends at a penetra- turned out to be filled-in sinkholes low the surface, a 5 to 10 tion of 467 meters and a depth of with clear but shallow water. Some meters wide and 20 to 30 meters tall 35 meters. Both caves need much of them had large populations of takes off. After about 50 meters, the more work. Source: Advanced Diver blind fish, isopods, and amphipods, passage splits, one way going to a Magazine 9, 2001, which contains despite no large connection to a huge room 30 meters in diameter artists’ impressions of the maps of cave system. None appeared to and 40 meters tall, with the ceiling Och 1 and Tuchen; Andreas Matthes have horizontal passages, al- above water level. The penetration in Underwater Speleology, May 2001. though one may have a passage from the entrance is 100 meters. The going off at 70 meters depth. Mixed- other direction ends at a penetra-

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Peter Sprouse April 2002 DEEP CAVES OF MEXICO Depth in meters

1 Sistema Huautla Oaxaca 1475 2 Sistema Cheve Oaxaca 1386 3 Akemati Puebla 1226 4 Kijahe Xontjoa Oaxaca 1223 5 Cueva Charco Oaxaca 1166 6 Sistema Ocotempa Puebla 1070 7 Akemabis Puebla 1015 8 Sonconga Oaxaca 1014 9 Guixani Ndia Kijao Oaxaca 956 10 Sistema Purificación Tamaulipas 953 11 Sistema Perrito Oaxaca 906 12 Nita Cho Oaxaca 894 13 Sistema Tepepa (Ehécatl+Niebla) Puebla 880 14 Sótano de Agua de Carrizo Oaxaca 843 15 Sótano de El Berro Veracruz 838 16 Sótano de Trinidad San Luis Potosí 834 17 Resumidero el Borbollón San Luis Potosí 826 18 X’oy Tixa Oaxaca 813 19 Nita Ka Oaxaca 760 20 Sistema H31-H32-H35 Puebla 753 21 Sonyance Oaxaca 745 22 Nita Xonga Oaxaca 740 23 Yuá Nita Oaxaca 704 24 Aztotempa Puebla 700 25 Sótano de los Planos Puebla 694 26 Sótano de Alfredo Querétaro 673 27 Sistema Cuetzalan Puebla 658 28 Sótano de Tilaco Querétaro 649 29 Nita Nashí Oaxaca 641 30 Cuaubtempa Superior Puebla 640 31 Sistema Atlalaquía Veracruz 623 32 Cueva de Diamante Tamaulipas 621 33 R’ja Man Kijao Oaxaca 613 34 Nita He Oaxaca 594 35 Meandro Que Cruce (H54) Puebla 588 36 Sistema del Encanto Puebla 584 37 Yometa Puebla 582 38 Sótano de las Coyotas Guanajuato 581 39 Sótano Arriba Suyo San Luis Potosí 563 40 Sistema Tepetlaxtli Puebla 535 41 Sótano del Río Iglesia Oaxaca 531 42 Sótano de Nogal Querétaro 529 43 Resumidero de la Piedra Agujerada San Luis Potosí 521 Updates and corrections: 44 Grutas de Rancho Nuevo Chiapas 520 45 Sótano de Ahuihuitzcapa Veracruz 515 Peter Sprouse 46 Sistema Soconusco Chiapas 513 PO Box 8424 47 Sótano de las Golondrinas San Luis Potosí 512 Austin, Texas 78713 48 Hoya de las Conchas Querétaro 508 [email protected] 49 Sótano de Los Hernandez Querétaro 507 50 Sótano del Buque Querétaro 506

18 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Peter Sprouse April 2002 Depth in meters LONG CAVES OF MEXICO

1 Ox Bel Ha Quintana Roo 96800 2 Sistema Purificación Tamaulipas 93755 3 Nohoch Nah Chich Quintana Roo 60985 4 Sistema Huautla Oaxaca 55953 5 Quintana Roo 55322 6 Sistema Cuetzalan Puebla 37676 7 Cueva del Tecolote Tamaulipas 36562 8 Kijahe Xontjoa Oaxaca 31373 9 Sistema Cheve Oaxaca 24300 10 Sistema Tepepa (Ehécatl+Niebla) Puebla 24000 11 Sistema Soconusco Chiapas 21733 12 Coyalatl Puebla 20000 13 Sistema Naranjal Quintana Roo 19394 14 Sistema Yax Ch’en Quintana Roo 18302 15 Quintana Roo 17078 16 Sistema Pondazul (PonDeRosa) Quintana Roo 14932 17 Cueva del Alpazat Puebla 13676 18 Sistema Nohoch Kiin Quintana Roo 13615 19 Cueva del Río La Venta Chiapas 13000 20 Atlixicaya Puebla 12200 21 Sistema San Andrés Puebla 10988 22 Grutas de Rancho Nuevo Chiapas 10218 23 Cueva del Arroyo Grande Chiapas 10207 24 Cueva del Mano Oaxaca 9790 25 Sistema Abejas Quintana Roo 9742 26 El Chorro Grande Chiapas 9650 27 Sistema Tepetlaxtli Puebla 9600 28 Actún Kaua Yucatán 9400 29 Cueva Quebrada Quintana Roo 9000 30 Sótano de Las Calenturas Tamaulipas 8308 31 Gruta del Tigre Quintana Roo 8300 32 Cenote Chac Mool - Mojarra Quintana Roo 8182 33 Sumidero Santa Elena Puebla 7884 34 Cueva Yohualapa Puebla 7820 35 Cueva de la Peña Colorada Oaxaca 7793 36 Cueva de Comalapa Veracruz 7750 37 Sótano del Arroyo San Luis Potosí 7200 38 Sistema Perrito Oaxaca 7148 39 Cueva de la Puente San Luis Potosí 6978 40 Sistema Zoquiapan Puebla 6597 41 Xongo Dwi Ñi Oaxaca 6500 42 Cueva Vinata Michoacán 6460 43 Sumidero de Janotla (Teponahuas) Puebla 6381 44 Cueva del Ferrocarríl Morelos 6100 45 Cueva Aerolito Quintana Roo 6100 46 Sistema Cretácico (Suchomimus) Nuevo León 6065 47 Cenote Zapoté Quintana Roo 6000 48 Sistema Sima Grande Puebla 5952 49 Gruta del Río Chontalcoatlán Guerrero 5827 50 Sistema H31-H32-H35 Puebla 5745

19 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Peter Sprouse April 2002 DEEP PITS OF MEXICO Depth in meters

1 El Sótano (de El Barro) Entrance drop Querétaro 410 2 Sótano de las Golondrinas Entrance drop San Luis Potosí 376 3 Sótano de Tomasa Kiahua Entrance drop Veracruz 330 4 Zacatón Entrance drop Tamaulipas 329 5 Sótano de Alhuastle P’tit Quebec Puebla 329 6 Nita Xonga Psycho Killer Oaxaca 310 7 Sotanito de Ahuacatlán Second drop Querétaro 288 8 Sótano del Arroyo Grande Entrance drop Chiapas 283 9 Sistema de la Lucha Entrance drop Chiapas 280 9 Sima Don Juan Entrance drop Chiapas 278 11 Sima Dos Puentes La Ventana Chiapas 250 11 Hálito de Oztotl Entrance Drop Oaxaca 250 13 Resumidero del Pozo Blanco Entrance drop Jalisco 233 13 Sótano del Aire Entrance drop San Luis Potosí 233 15 Sistema Ocotempa Pozo Verde Puebla 221 16 Sótano de los Planos Puits Tannant Puebla 220 16 Sótano de Eladio Martínez Entrance drop Veracruz 220 18 Sótano de Coatimundi Entrance drop San Luis Potosí 219 19 Sótano de Sendero Entrance drop San Luis Potosí 217 19 Sima de la Pedrada Entrance drop Chiapas 217 19 Resumidero el Borbollón Tiro Grande San Luis Potosí 217 22 Sima del Chikinibal Entrance drop Chiapas 214 23 Cueva del Tizar Third drop San Luis Potosí 212 24 Kijahe Xontjoa Son On Jan Oaxaca 210 25 Nacimiento del Río Mante Macho Pit Tamaulipas 206 26 Hoya de las Guaguas Entrance drop San Luis Potosí 202 27 Sistema H3-H4 Puebla 200 27 Kijahe Xontjoa Lajao Se Oaxaca 200 29 Sima La Funda Entrance drop Chiapas 198 30 Sótano de Soyate Entrance drop San Luis Potosí 195 31 Sótano de Alpupuluca Entrance drop Veracruz 190 31 Cuaubtempa Pozo Con Carne Puebla 190 31 Sótano de Tepetlaxtli no. 1 Entrance drop Puebla 190 34 Sótano de Puerto de los Lobos Entrance drop San Luis Potosí 189 35 Sótano de Hermanos Peligrosos Second drop Veracruz 186 36 Sistema Soconusco Darwin Chiapas 180 36 Sima de Veinte Casas Entrance drop Chiapas 180 36 Ahuihuitzcapa Entrance drop Veracruz 180 36 Hoya de la Luz Entrance drop San Luis Potosí 180 40 Sima del Cedro Entrance drop Chiapas 175 41 Sótano de la Cuesta Entrance drop San Luis Potosí 174 42 Sima Dos Puentes Entrance drop Chiapas 172 43 Sótano de los Monos Entrance drop San Luis Potosí 171 43 Sótano de Otates Third drop Tamaulipas 171 43 El Socavón Entrance drop Querétaro 171 46 Sótano de los Ladrones Entrance drop Oaxaca 170 46 Nita Diplodicus Entrance drop Oaxaca 170 46 Sótano de Tepetlaxtli no. 2 Entrance drop Puebla 170 49 Sótano de Agua de Carrizo Flip Pit Oaxaca 164 50 OC4, OC 8, Nita Sakafaaï (tie) Pue,Pue,Oax 160

20 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

CERRO RABÓN 1995–2000

Karlin Meyers

n 1984, Ernie Garza showed Blane –1000-meter level, where kilome- week stay. Cavers were Thomas IColton and me a picture of the ters of horizontal labyrinths are Bitterli, Sebastien Grosjean, Chris- Nacimiento del Río Oropan, a huge encountered that represent a huge, tin Preiswerk, Arniko Böke, Laurent aquamarine resurgence in the Santo ancient phreatic system. In fact, Déchanez, Patrick Hirzel, Corinne Domingo Canyon below a western over half of the survey lies between Kolly, Pierre-Yves Jennin, Michel extension of the Sierra Mazateca –850 and –1200 meters. Bovey, Roman Hapka, David Chris- called the Cerro Rabón. Our objec- It is puzzling, considering the tian, Fabianne Rouvinez, Jean-Marc tive became to find the cave above. region’s annual rainfall of nearly 5 Jutzet, Bruno Manser, and Yvo The Río Oropan has a flow, depend- meters, approximately twice that of Weidmann from Switzerland, Peter ing on the season, of 3 to 15 cubic the Cheve and Huautla area, that no Harley from , Serge Delaby meters per second, so the cave sys- major underground river has been and Sophie Verheyden from Bel- tem above has to be big. What was found anywhere in the area. The gium, Denis Provalov from , in fact found is a system that repre- catchment for the Río Oropan prob- and Karlin Meyers, Arnie Nelson, sents, as far as we can tell, a separate ably lies just west of the Kijahe and Artur Kruk, Matt Oliphant, Nancy drainage system to the north, per- includes a closed valley we call the Pistole, Blake Harrison, and Domi- haps eventually to the Presa Miguel Lost City due to the appearance of nique Rouiller from the United Aleman at Tilpan, some 12 kilome- the in air photos. While we States. In addition, there were four ters to the northeast. This system, have made numerous forays into botany students from Switzerland Kijahe Xontjoa, the Forgotten Win- this remote area, no intensive cav- who were doing studies in Mexico. dow, lies only 5 kilometers from the ing has been accomplished due to With so many people, they were Río Oropan, but the deep parts of the long distance from camp and well prepared to push Kijahe the Kijahe are 150 meters below the our preoccupation with the grow- Xontjoa and continue checking new elevation of that resurgence. Appar- ing Kijahe. Recently, a group and old areas for other caves. ently tectonic overthrusting has from Indiana and has A clearing a half-hour from made a drainage divide between been making efforts to explore this basecamp, the Nita Ya Heke clear- the Kijahe and the resurgence, and area. ing, had produced by this time a the presumed Oropan cave system Since discoveries from 1987 to large number of interesting caves has yet to be discovered. Consen- 1994 are described in previous concentrated in a small region, in- sus, therefore, is that exploration of project publications [and see AMCS cluding Nita Sakafaaï, 210 meters the Cerro Rabón plateau has only Activities Newsletters 17 and 18], I deep with a 160-meter pit, Nita begun. will continue here with the 1995 Xcoa, 234 meters, Nita Ya Heke, 291 The Kijahe Xontjoa has, however, expedition. At the end of the 1993 meters, Nita Ganola, 255 meters, become one of the deepest caves in season, the Kijahe was 1181 meters and many smaller caves. Nita Terre- Mexico, and it is notable for being deep and 19 kilometers long. It was moto, an entrance discovered in remote and still largely covered by therefore no problem getting cavers 1989 but never checked, was tar- a primary cloud forest that lends an from the United States, Switzer- geted first. The bottom of the large, exotic and biologically fascinating land, , England, and Rus- 70-meter entrance pit was blocked atmosphere to the region. The sia interested in another expedition. by breakdown, but by moving some known system is somewhat differ- blocks and following good airflow, ent in morphology from the neigh- n March 1995, an international a horizontal labyrinth was found, boring deep systems, Cheve and Iteam of cavers hauled 900 kilo- and 480 meters was surveyed. The Huautla. Its major conduits plunge grams of food and materials to the next survey team dropped another vertically downward, practically base camp a half-kilometer from pit and tackled lots of mud and under the entrance doline, to the San Martín Caballero for a three- more small pits before they stopped

21 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 at –125 meters at a larger pit. The meters of survey, they stopped at two mazy passages, the Zapatista following day, a team armed with the top of a very large room with Underground. A return the next 200 meters of rope managed 400 many galleries leading from it, a day netted 270 meters of survey to meters of survey, which brought the real Swiss cheese. They returned a breakdown area with very good cave to 350 meters deep and 1280 the next day with rope and began airflow. They returned to Camp 1 meters long. They returned tired to check the many leads. One pas- just in time to meet a three-man but pleased, because Terremoto had sage contains a stream that was team heading in to Camp Cairo. passed the –300-meter mark, unlike followed upstream 200 meters to a Traffic in the deep shafts in- the others in the Nita Ya Heke clear- sump. It probably is the same creased, as the Camp 1 team left the ing, and was still going strong. A stream that flows through the next day, only to meet an incoming trip some days later found the next breakdown in the Sarcophagus team of four at –600 meters. Stories, big pit blind except for a small win- borehole. Another passage, with leads, and survey notes were ex- dow 10 meters up in a crack. This breakdown, brought them into an- changed, as was a Hilti drill. The led to a nice 75-meter pit into a huge other large room from which a 7- second Camp Cairo crew spent the room, sadly the end of the cave at by-7-meter passage sloped down next two days surveying mostly –470 meters. into an impressive lake. A long loops in the complex labyrinth and A new trail, more to the west, was swim by one of the Swiss proved trying to make some sense of the made and surveyed to the Kijahe. that the lake, the , was area and find some airflow to lead The goals were to improve the ac- indeed a terminal sump 1200 meters them out. They were unsuccessful, curacy of the existing 20 kilometers below the main entrance. They but they netted 850 meters of sur- of overland survey and to look far- headed out with 1.2 kilometers of vey, an estimated half of the maze. ther north of the Kijahe valley for new survey. The new Camp 1 crew found more new caves. The most significant pre- The four-person second team passages and loops in the Galerie vious find in the area was Wind descended to Camp 1, the Bat Yeck des Pensées and the Zapatista Un- Cave, a 100-meter pit to a big collapse Camp, and targeted a couple of in- derground and then checked some room under the doline. Numerous teresting climbs near the camp. The leads on their way out. other pits were found and mapped, first lead, in the Galerie des Pensées, Above, while the deep camps but none went over 100 meters led them down some 100 meters of were busy, others were exploring deep, and there were no going pits to a room, where it ended. A new areas. So many features look leads. bolt climb to a large window in the attractive on air photos, but concern After the first week, the first deep Popocatepetl Room was attempted, grew about the difficulty of system- trips into the Kijahe were made. The but rock quality deteriorated after atic exploration in the complex main goal of the three-man first 20 meters, and this was abandoned. jungle. Flagged and blazed trails are team was to establish a second A large camp exchange was nearly impossible to find after three camp, Camp Cairo, in the far region made, as six cavers headed out or four years. Fears were confirmed of the Sarcophagus and push the and two came in to join the one re- by an accidental resurvey. Efforts going leads in this area. They de- maining in Camp 1. This new team were therefore concentrated on So parted carrying 70 kilograms of continued to check leads in the On Jan and the trail to the Lost City, material and had to rig the lower breakdown galleries just past the the closed valley of sinks a few ki- Kijahe on their way. Twenty hours North Sea. On the way to Beyond lometers west of the Kijahe. later they set a camp at –1144 meters the Big Black, a 30-meter pit led The trail to the Lost City was first near the beginning of the Sarcopha- them into the Subcomandante blazed by cavers in 1989. In 1991, it gus borehole, where there was wa- Marcos River. After 200 meters, this took two days to reopen it and set a ter. Totally exhausted, they devoured stream sumped at the junction of tiny jungle camp. The Lost City was their freeze-dried meals along with the silica-gel packets. The next day they began survey- ing in a beautiful gallery named the Vrai Sucre (French for Real Sugar), which produced a bypass to the eerie Sarcophagus. A mop-up sur- vey finished practically all the open leads in this area, and the next day they moved on to the next lead, in the Gallery. Here they descended a ramp that brought them into a honeycomb labyrinth under the main borehole. After 150 The Cerro Rabón plateau from the east. Arniko Böke.

22 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

After 380 meters, they stop- proportions [see map in “Mexico ped at the top of a deep pit. News” in AMCS Activities Newslet- They dubbed the gallery the ter 24]. Lost City Transitway due to A large amount of material was the direction it was heading, finally retrieved from the stash cave toward Lost City, of course. I Can’t Believe It’s Not Nita Sakafaaï. The pit was behaving like a Originally, the material had been huge vacuum-cleaner, so stashed in Nita Sakafaaï in 1993 to they called it the Staub- be used in 1995. But the last mem- sauger, German for Dust- bers of the 1995 group mistook a sucker. The last cave trip of new cave for Nita Sakafaaï and the expedition was made stashed the material there, leading into the Lost City Transit- to some days of nervous confusion way. The Staubsauger is a at the beginning of the 1997 expe- 100-meter popcorn cov- dition. ered pit ending in a huge The first deep survey trip went breakdown room. Follow- into So On Jan to continue in the ing the airflow down into canyon beyond the Electrolux bore- the blocks, the two cavers hole where the 1995 survey had dug into a small crawlway. ended. With 150 meters of new After 15 meters, this windy depth in the area, they ran out of tube passed into a large rope at –600 meters and had to leave borehole, the Electrolux, going canyon behind. A second which is probably the most deep trip was soon organized by voluminous passage in the four cavers. Starting with 300 In the Big Room in Kijahe. Kijahe system. After only meters of rope from the –600-meter about 200 meters, however, level, they followed a series of dry Jean-Marc Jutzet. the borehole funneled into pits and meanders until they ar- a narrow but tall descending rived, using their last rope, in a briefly visited again in 1993, and canyon with great airflow. With 850 large horizontal borehole, the San this year the trail was again re- meters of new survey, they turned José Borehole, with many leads. opened, and the first detailed field around at the top of a pit, a good Noting that this would be a good notes on the area were made. Inci- end point for the 1995 trip. The place to set a camp the following dentally, as the Lost City group Kijahe was 1223 meters in total year, they returned satisfied to the made its way through the high karst depth and over 25 kilometers surface after a thirty-two-hour trip. sketching deep dolines and fissures, long. The last days were spent making another group of cavers was 1500 a foray to Lost City to reestablish meters lower making a river tra- smaller expedition took place the trail and descend the big pit verse of the Santo Domingo Can- Ain March 1997, with Laurent found by Roman and David in 1995, yon. During the last days of the 1995 Déchanez, Natalie Gumy, Yvo Weid- whose tale of a hundred-meter-plus Cerro Rabón expedition, the Lost mann, Catherine Perret, and Jean- pit with air was good bait. Lots of City crew stopped at a large, deep, Marc Jutzet of Switzerland, Vin- material was retrieved from I Can’t perhaps 100-plus meters deep, pit cente Aspeita from Mexico, and Believe It’s Not Nita Sakafaaï, and with airflow. They flagged a tree Dale Bernard, Jennifer Townsdin, they took a 180-meter rope from the and named the pit the Breath of and Ernie Garza from the United new rope-stash cave. With very Oztotl. Having no rope, they reluc- States. heavy packs, it was slow going, and tantly returned to basecamp with There was a new pit discovery, a camp was made by some big aga- the news. Nita Gatziquin, Arch Cave, found ves in the pine forest only halfway Meanwhile, a group had entered only a stone’s throw from the So On to Lost City. Without the stove in So On Jan, which was connected at Jan entrance pit. A small, uninter- the Lost City camp, they were re- –600 meters to the Kijahe in 1993, esting meander in a doline led to a duced to a cold picnic. The Lost City to check leads near the bottom of voluminous black pit. The pit was camp was not reached by late after- the 209-meter pit. [A map of the first rigged with a 30-meter rope, noon the next day, so they decided entrance pit of So On Jan is in and Laurent reached a narrow plat- to abandon the effort and return to “Mexico News” in AMCS Activities form next to a void. Jean-Marc then basecamp. Newsletter 21.] up in the descended, and the two looked A closing-of-the-camp feast was tight meanders that follow the en- wide-eyed at each other as rocks fell organized at Anselmo’s in San trance shafts, they popped into a below them for seven seconds. The Martín, where pizzas were made in fossil canyon with great airflow. ledge suddenly seemed much nar- his new wood-fired bread oven. We The next survey team continued rower. Gatziquin turned out to be a also saw that a new small clinic had following the air in dry passage. 200-meter blind pit of gargantuan been opened in San Martín.

23 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

larger and longer trip took rain-collecting tarps at basecamp. need the twenty pounds of water. Aplace in March 1998. Partici- By extremely good luck, it suddenly The following day, they first pants were Stan Allison, Roman rained for a few hours, and they checked the deep continuation of Hapka, Artuk Kruk, Karlin Meyers, collected about two hundred gal- the borehole. A 35-meter pit, the Thomas Bitterli, Jeff Delhorn, Blake lons of water. The expedition was Muddy Blues, led to a small room Harrison, Dominique Rouillier, on, and they celebrated by bringing at –905 meters. A very tight squeeze Jean-Marc Jutzet, Jeb Mosenfelder, out some of the eight liters of wine at the bottom led down a small rift Joel Despain, Merrilee Proffitt, and they had brought, which turned out for 8 meters to a narrow meander Brad Hacker. After securing letters to be all sherry. (Who did the shop- with a pool. The airflow was out- of permission in Oaxaca City, they ping?) ward, not into the cave like the air visited Leo Schibli there at the of- Soon Karlin, Roman, and Artur they were chasing, so they chose not fice of the Sociedad para el Estudio prepared for the first deep trip to to push this. Thus, for them, the de los Recursos Bióticos de Oaxaca set a camp in the San José Borehole cave ended at about –910 meters. (SERBO) and heard some bad news. and find water for it. They feared Turning around, a reconnaissance In the Chimalapas area, which con- that after three months without of the main borehole was made. In tains the largest primary forests left rain, So On Jan, normally a surpris- the middle, a large breakdown pile in Mexico, field workers had been ingly dry cave, would have no that reaches to the ceiling makes attacked by Africanized bees and drips. The 50 kilograms of supplies orientation a bit confusing. The next one, a Mexican ornithologist, had were in five cave packs, since larger day they decided to take some pho- been killed. (They later learned that duffels won’t fit through the tight tos while surveying the borehole. some 40 percent of the Chimalapas sections, and included ten liters of This would justify having dragged has been ravaged by forest fires.) water, just in case. The team took all the of photo gear down. Ready, This was a hint at the environmen- nine hours to reach the camp. A aim, whoops. No battery power, no tal woes this expedition would ex- very good drip was found only 50 photos. The large borehole occu- perience. Viewing the Cerro Rabón meters from camp, so they didn’t pied them for ten hours, during area on Leo’s large Landsat images, though, confirmed the importance of its unique environment. The primary goal of this expedi- tion was to push So On Jan past the 1997 end point at –850 meters. That new area trends away from the main Kijahe system toward the Río Oropan, which made it very inter- esting. In Tuxtepec, where nearly all ex- pedition supplies can be obtained, including carbide, they learned that it had been unusually dry for the last three months, as a result of El Niño, and they even saw in a news- paper that a large forest fire was being driven by high winds up the mountain from Ayautla toward Cerro Rabón. When they arrived in San Martín the next day, water was suddenly a very big issue. Some lo- cals were being forced to buy water in Cerro Central three hours away. Anselmo immediately explained, not very necessarily, the need for a water project. In addition, sub-zero weather in January had killed all the young corn, adding to the misery in the area. And still the forest fires raged. For a while the cavers ques- tioned the appropriateness of the time and place for a caving expedi- tion, but they had made a big effort to get everyone there, so they could only try. Immediately they set up

24 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

A Tour of Kijahe Xontjoa

The Kijahe part of the Kijahe some downclimbs and a few tight gypsum needles up to 30 centimeters Xontjoa–So On Jan system was found spots. Then pits of 28 and 12 meters long. A series of climbs out of this deep in the verdant jungle on the last lead to a sump at –973 meters. A profile room lead into the Galerie des day of the 1989 Cerro Rabón expedi- map of this much of the Kijahe appears Pensées borehole, which ended up tion. The 25-meter rope drop into the in AMCS Activities Newsletter 18 as a looping back to the British Islands. collapse doline brings one to the en- foldout following page 64. This route, however, is longer than trance to a windy gallery. After a Above the sump pitch is a small gal- the Lechuguillan Maze. couple of short drops and climbs, one lery that leads into the beginning of a The deep pit drops 80 meters into encounters a 45-centimeter slot in the huge borehole. At this point the cave what is clearly an old vadose stream- floor where rocks fall for seven sec- goes horizontal, and Camp 1, Camp Bat way at –1063 meters. Rounded cobbles onds. The totally free P199 was first Yeck, is found. The Camp Borehole has up to 1 meters across and beautifully done on a single 8-millimeter rope, two continuations. One is the Firefly scalloped, clean rock hint at the large somewhat like . At Chimney. This large dome with good volumes of water that once raged the bottom, a short climb to a large airflow has been climbed about 100 through here. Upstream, the passage lead can be pushed deep into tight meters and still goes. One has the im- mysteriously ends after only 140 canyons and pits still not completely pression it is the bottom of another meters. Downstream, the canyon is pushed, but the main route descends large cave coming in from the surface. soon blocked by breakdown. A large into a scalloped stream canyon, fol- The other continuation is a low, windy room overhead does not go. Under- lowing the water for some 100 meters lake, the North Sea at –973 meters, neath is a complex maze of to where it disappears down a hole which leads to the main part of the and breakdown that can be pen- and the next drop is encountered. deep cave. etrated after difficult route-finding. Forty-five meters lower, the cave di- From the voluminous, blocky North Soon water is heard spouting out of vides into three galleries. The main, Sea Passage, where the river is lost deep a sumped passage perched high on windy lead takes one into a dry, in the breakdown, the cave splits. Going the left wall, and the borehole turns popcorn-encrusted meander that is right just after the borehole narrows into a nice river passage. But, typi- the top of the Dry Pit Series, 120 takes one up and north to the towering cally for Kijahe streams, it does not meters of rapid descent. The other Popocatepetl Room, where galleries go far, and the water disappears leads are blind or loop into the dry continue on though the Lamella Gang, into fissures after only 100 meters. shafts. At the –500-meter level at the the Stromboli, and Beyond the Big Shortly beyond, a very large bore- bottom of the Dry Pit Series, the cave Black, all large, dry, blocky walking hole is intersected. To the right, the is quite labyrinthine, and the first ex- galleries. A 30-meter pit in this area borehole leads one into an ever- plorations were stopped by a sump brings one to the Subcomandante widening gallery past the location of at –530 meters. A large horizontal Marcos River and the Zapata Maze, a Camp Cairo. Another stream is deep gallery in this area leads to a series lower level that eventually loops back in the breakdown, but cannot be fol- of pits that descend to a large room into the main passages. This area has lowed. Beyond Camp Cairo is the at –620 meters. A window in one of been checked quite thoroughly. Sarcophagus, where the ceiling has these pits leads through a short gal- To the left or northwest out of the collapsed along a flat bedding plane, lery to an opening into a black void, North Sea Passage, a long, blocky can- leaving an eerie passage 2 meters or the Big Room. This room is 120 yon with ancient phreatic features less high and some 30 meters wide. meters by 160 meters by 100 meters takes off with good airflow. After The rock here is very black and has high, and from one side of it a huge nearly 500 meters, the passage splits. a sulfurous smell when broken. blind shaft descends another 155 To the left and down a ramp, one en- Left in the large borehole is the 25- meters. Rocks rolled into this pit ters the more distinctly old phreatic meter-wide Crocodile Gallery head- make an impressive echo. passages of the British Islands, a low, ing north with airflow. Large break- A tight canyon in the labyrinth labyrinthine section where –1000 down blocks and climbs lead to the below the Dry Pit Series leads to the meters was first surpassed. This area terminal breakdown after about 500 stream and a series of wet pitches. has no major deep leads. The passage meters. Here air howls though the At the bottom of the second wet above the ramp leads into a set of dry impenetrable breakdown. Back about pitch, So On Jan comes in through a galleries and fissures that are very tight 200 meters a ramp descends to the dome at –600 meters. At the bottom and hot going, like caving in Lechu- Labyrinth, 2 kilometers of honey- of the wet series, at –800 meters, a guilla. This mazy section takes a bit of combed galleries and rooms with no few side leads take off, though these route-finding, but goes into a room apparent trend. One lead does go eventually end at –897 meters. The about 10 meters across. To the right and under the terminal breakdown with main lead continues down a wet 56- down a windy passage is a deep pit, good air, where the last survey party meter pit to a narrow canyon with and to the left is another room with turned around.—Karlin Meyers

25 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 which they found no promising in five hours. Continuing on in the but this suddenly ends in a 4-inch- leads. The great airflow in the can- camp borehole, they surveyed 550 wide fissure at –153 meters. The air- yon above somehow eluded them. meters of small galleries that sur- flow had been lost, so they climbed In the end, a large window some 15 round it. A loop was found that con- back up to a small, tight gallery at meters up on the wall was spotted. nects into Route 66, saving thirty –90 meters that did have strong air- A climb and traverse was done to minutes of travel but requiring a 4- flow. In 20 meters the airflow went get into the 3-by-4-meter passage, meter ladder climb. In Route 66 down a 0.35-meter-wide slot. Hav- which had the airflow. The next day, they surveyed another 550 meters. ing been soaked by the entrance the survey continued into the new The 10-meter pit where the pre- waterfall, they were quite chilled high lead, Route 66. Winding its vious group stopped was rigged, and declined the nasty slot. way directly toward the Río Oro- and this led to a nice passage with Stan, Jeff, and Thomas went to pan, this nice large, often-decorated gypsum flowers and needles up to the Nita Ye Heke clearing armed fossil passage passes through areas 40 centimeters long. Route 66 has with Thomas’s excellent doline of vertical bedding that helped con- become one of the nicest passages map. They spent two days survey- firm thoughts that they were in an- in the whole system. On another ing four new caves, but all were other ancient base-level labyrinth. day, the group surveyed down an short and not deeper than 45 meters. They were soon stopped by a pit 11-meter pit and got another 320 They declared part of the clearing and lack of rope and carbide. After meters, following the good airflow finished. a nine-hour ascent, they left So On that disappeared finally into a very The next day, Stan, Jeff, and Tho- Jan into a very dry forest. Smelling unpromising breakdown. Climbing mas headed into cave, but this time smoke, they feared that the forest in it was stopped where rope would the Kijahe. The goal was to check fire was still burning and getting be needed to reach a possible hole beyond the large window at the very near the Kijahe valley. Back at higher in the breakdown. The rest bottom of the 199-meter pit, a lead the Rat House basecamp, the smoke of the collapse was fruitlessly called simply Continuation 81. The was indeed so thick one could not scoured. Back a few hundred meters, traditional tie-off tree for the Kijahe see San Martín 500 meters away Stan did a scary 30-meter climb to doline had fallen, so rigging was a across the doline. The fire still raged a blind balcony, and the team fin- bit more awkward. At the bottom after eight days, and a viento diablo ished with an additional 270 meters of P199 was a large stash of ropes, howled through the night, nearly of mop-up survey in Route 66 be- so with full bags they slowly climbed tearing the metal off the house and fore leaving the cave. back up a bit and came to the 30- driving more smoke and fire to- Roman, Karlin, and Artur went meter-pit lead left by Philippe ward San Martín. There was little to Nanda Nita, a multi-entrance Rouiller in 1989. Beyond the 30- sleep, due to the noise and anxiety. stream cave located about forty meter pit were two very narrow and The next afternoon, however, the minutes north of San Martín. While uninviting canyons leading off. Ten prayed-for rains came. Everyone, the horizontal cave had already meters up, however, there was a including the locals, was laughing been surveyed, the third entrance, huge window, but this passage too with relief. But then it rained and a pit, was still open. They surveyed broke up into many small fissures rained and rained . . . . down a 71-meter pit to a bridge. with strong airflow. They then Thomas, Stan, and Jean-Marc Both sides continue down and join pendulumed across the pit to an- then departed for a six-day trip into to form a nice, clean-washed de- other meander, which continued So On Jan. They arrived at the camp scending tube with water and air, about 40 meters to a nice, round 20- meter pit. Passing several leads in this pit, they followed the meander at the bottom for about 70 meters to the top of yet another pit, of 15 meters. Here they stopped, left the gear, and returned to the surface safely at 3 A.M. Stan and Thomas returned to the Nita Ya Heke–Sakafaaï region, which is a very confusing jumble of pits and fissures. They managed to survey into previously surveyed Taza de Baño and then concluded that the area had been well checked. So they headed to a doline that Thomas had marked on his map back in 1991, but got distracted Karlin Meyers in the Crocodile Labyrinth. Arniko Böke.

26 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

along the way by another pit. They cracks. So Four Winds blew out af- 35 meters to a small room. The way descended the 40-meter pit into ter 500 meters. on was a very tight vadose canyon Four Winds Cave and found a According to a field map by to another small room with large nicely decorated horizontal passage Thomas, there are numerous inter- . Good air continued into that intersects the doline they had esting dolines in the region just an even tighter meander. After 6 been seeking and continues to a uphill and northeast of the Kijahe difficult meters in this, a large 20- breakdown area after 300 meters. doline. Thomas and Jed went to a meter pit was reached, followed by Joined the next day by Karlin, the promising-looking pit that turned pits of 15 and 5 meters. There are three returned to Four Winds Cave out to be 80 meters to a small offset several windows in this deep area, and its main going lead, but after and another 56 meters to the bot- but most of the airflow descends 100 meters a very tricky climb was tom at a nice narrow canyon with down the next pit. Out of rope, they encountered. Unequipped to tackle strong airflow. They named it Hard left the cave. Several days later, Joel the overhang, they left, after find- Rock Cave due to the particularly and Merrilee returned with Stan, ing another lead to a pit. Some hard , and they turned who was unable to follow through days later, after the arrival of Joel, around at –160 meters. Thomas re- the tightest meander. While the Merrilee, and Brad, Stan took them turned the next day with Joel and others went on to survey, Stan ham- to Four Winds Cave to check this Merrilee. They surveyed minor mered away, enlarging the meander. last lead. The blind pit was travers- horizontal passages at the deepest Joel and Merrilee stopped at the top ed, but after 100 meters the strong point reached the day before and of what looks like a 30-meter pit airflow was lost down impenetrable then continued down pits of 29 and with strong airflow. So far the cave

27 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 is 275 meters deep and 400 meters interesting pits, but did not find the Thomas’s wish would be for us to long. big one. After seventy-one surface continue in the Cerro Rabón, and The next day, Thomas took Joel stations, they simply noted that so a small expedition was orga- and Merrilee to the Kijahe to push there is lots to check during another nized, mainly by Yvo Weidmann in Continuation 81. Some days of expedition. and Catherine Perret in Oaxaca, rain had made the passages quite In all, the 1998 trip mapped 1.5 where they had been working with wet. Encountering poor-quality kilometers in eleven new caves and the SERBO environmental office for rock, they spent some time rigging added over 2.5 kilometers deep in some fourteen months. Nathalie and looking for a drier route around So On Jan, but the big extension Gumy and Laurent Déchanez with some wet pits. After finding a dry hoped for in the San José Borehole their daughter Lea, Sybille Kilsch- meander, they stopped at the top of fell a bit short of expectations. Hard mann, Michel Bovey, and Jean-Marc a 20-meter pit, a good end point for Rock Cave, which has a couple of Jutzet joined the trip. Due to the that trip. The next day they took narrow spots, has very good airflow small crew, no deep trips were Stan with them to So On Jan to look and potential to go deep before per- made, but there were some adven- at some open leads in the Staub- haps connecting into the main sys- tures in the bush. They also over- sauger. The first lead went down an tem. saw a rain-water cistern project for 8-meter drop to 100 meters of pas- the community of San Martín that sage to a choke with good n late fall of 1998, a tragic caving was sponsored by the Swiss social air. Stan completed two climbs that Iaccident in Switzerland took the aid organization ARPE, the Associa- ended at the base of a shaft esti- life of Thomas Bitterli. He suc- tion pour la Réalisation de Projets mated to be 100 meters high, also cumbed while attempting to save a de’Entrainde. Initiated by the cavers with good air. caver stranded on rope in a water- of the Cerro Rabón project, its in- During the final days of the ex- fall. For his friends and the Cerro tention was to bring the most neutral pedition, Brad, Jeb, and Thomas Rabón project, this was an immense and general benefit to the town. The ventured into the region beyond loss. He had been the key organizer cistern project was executed in a Nita Tii, an hour from basecamp and motivator for the project in re- serious, professional manner, but and on the upper trail to Tenango. cent years, as well as one of the the political ramifications were They tried to relocate the big pit that strongest cavers. Needless to say, greatly underestimated. In the end had been found there by Roman many of us were too dismayed to it provided another target for the and Thomas in 1995. During their consider a trip in the following growing political animosities among overland survey, they located many spring. But we all agreed that the local people in San Martín. This we did not expect. Ventures into the forested karst produced Live in Busch, a new pit discovered very near the So On Jan area and sporting another volumi- nous drop, of 220 meters. The small Kijahe valley now has four two- hundred-meter pits, all within 100 meters of each other. A big effort was made to venture into the Lost City valley again. The forest camp was reached with a 200- meter rope, and a trip to the deep pit found by Roman and David in 1995 was made. Unfortunately, they found when they got there that a group of Americans had beat them to it, a great disappointment due to lack of communication between dif- ferent expeditions. On the bright side, though, maybe they were lucky, because the pit turned out to be 260 meters deep. No one noticed burned areas, so apparently the moist deciduous trees that grow low in the Lost City valley were not disturbed by the fires of 1998, much to their relief. They later learned that the fire had moved very quick- ly, above the ground, and mostly on

28 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 higher hills and ridges vegetated by returned to the base of the pine and cypress forests. SERBO said 30-meter pit just below that the Cerro Rabón has the larg- P209, where Karlin discov- est tract of primary cypress forest ered a small, going stream- in Mexico, or did have . . . . way just meters away from the end of the rope. After a y winter 1999, enough enthusi- quick look down 30 meters Basm had returned that a trip of small meander, they de- was planned for March 2000. Rather cided the lead was worth quickly, fourteen participants were another trip. The next day, gathered: Nathalie Gumy, Laurent Stan, Jean-Marc, and Karlin Déchanez, Jean-Marc Jutzet, Arniko returned, and they de- Böke, Karlin Meyers, Stan Allison, scended 45 meters of pits Gosia Allison, Svanke Vogel, Herve followed by 75 meters of Krummenacher, Peter Haberland, nice clean meander. Still fol- John Bradley, David Cole, Page lowing good air and water, Ashwell, and Martin Bochud. There they began the next pit se- were enough people to run two ries, but soon ran out of deep camps simultaneously. The rope. Arniko, Stan, and chief goals were to try to finish the Gosia returned enthusiasti- deep region in So On Jan and to cally the next day loaded push the deep labyrinth in the with rigging gear and 300 Kijahe. The quests for permission meters of rope, ready to go went very well in Oaxaca City and deep. They descended the also Tenango, but the new PRD next pit, 16 meters deep, people in the agente’s office in San into a narrowing meander. Martín were not pleased with their Doubting that it would go, presence, and granting of permis- they sent Stan ahead for a sion was put off until the agente quick look. He found an 8- arrived back from Mexico City at meter drop to a 30-meter the end of the week. While the lo- water crawl, and then a 10- cals were for the most part very meter pit and 60 meters of helpful and friendly, they felt a bit meander left him at the top uneasy about this new develop- of yet another pit, where he ment and sensed trouble. They stopped. Though the air and were nevertheless allowed to begin water went on, they decided the expedition, presumably due to one would have to be des- their letter of permission from the perate to continue, so they presidente in Tenango, who was the left it for now. father of the acting agente in San Another lead-checking trip Martín. It was a bit difficult to plan into So On Jan was made by exploration while fearing they Karlin and Page. They de- might have to leave in less than a scended to the –550-meter week, but local friends assured level in the canyon beyond them that things would be okay, the Electrolux borehole. The despite the fact that the office was first lead was a nice horizon- for the moment in the hands of tal gallery, but the floor was some hotheads. It turned out that soon covered with gypsum the agente did not return until the needles and flowers, and end of the following week. they turned around. The The gear stored in numerous next lead was a breezy hole places was all in good shape, and in the floor of the canyon, they did some shakedown trips into where they surveyed nu- the main system, but nothing deep, merous small galleries and initially. Stan, Gosia, and Karlin de- loops before descending the scended to –450 meters in So On Jan main drop. Page rigged into to a lead in the Staubsauger shaft a wet shaft with lots of sharp that had been noticed by Thomas. blades of rock. A dicey redi- After only 35 meters, it looped back rection gave way, swinging under the pit and ended in break- Page into the wall, where he down and disappointment. They received a bloody head

29 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 wound. At the bottom, they escaped little was accomplished, and they After nearly two hours, they gave down a small pit that dropped back returned unenthusiastic, describing up. This would be a job for a mas- into the main canyon. The two pru- a tight, miserable canyon still going. ter blaster. dently and slowly headed out and A few of the new participants, They then made their way back were passed on the trail by Jean- Jean-Marc, and Laurent made a to Camp 1 to gather camp and Marc, Martin, and Laurent, who foray westward to the huge doline sleeping material. Luckily Camp 1 were on their way to the San José seen on air photos west of the Nita had enough for six people, and they camp in So On Jan for three days. Ya Heke area. They found beauti- could take half to Camp Cairo. The This deep crew found small but ful virgin jungle scenery, but no round trip took eight hours, but going leads in the San José Bore- going caves. they scored a half-pound of beef hole, but they had to leave camp on A deep trip by four people was jerky. schedule because of the tenuous finally planned near the end of the After a better night’s rest, they political situation above. As they expedition. They had waited long ventured into the Labyrinth, where ascended, they noted other leads in enough for the agente to show up, finding a way through was another the canyons above. Some of these, and if a Camp Cairo trip in the major objective. The previous day just below those that had been Kijahe was to take place, it couldn’t they had been going over huge checked by Page and Karlin, were wait any longer. In case permission blocks in a large borehole to the end checked by Laurent, Herve, and was denied and basecamp had to be of the cave. Now they filed down a Jean-Marc during the following evacuated during the deep camp, a ramp under the breakdown and week. They quickly found going place and time to meet in Tuxtepec immediately found themselves in passage, the first being a parallel were set. Karlin, Arniko, Stan, and an extensive boneyard. With pas- 100-meter pit where they ran out of Page packed up for five days under- sages leading off in all directions, rope. Horizontal galleries were ground. Near the entrance, Page they would have been totally lost looked at and left unfinished. The decided it would be more prudent without the map from the 1995 ex- surveys throughout the system show to stay above. The others continued pedition. The day was spent getting a very complex zone of dendritic on in, rigging the wet zone from –650 oriented and checking some of the passages between about –550 and to –950 meters as they descended. more than thirty open leads, many –650 meters. Junctions are plentiful, Crocodile Gallery was reached af- of which looped back into known and surveying and route finding ter twelve hours. They plodded passage. One could say there was take a lot of time there. over the breakdown blocks looking more air than rock there. Meanwhile, Arniko led a trip for Camp Cairo, which none of On their fourth day underground, down Continuation 81 in the Kijahe. them had seen before. Bad news they ventured into the lower level Dragging along extra rope and rig- awaited them, however. Camp was of the Labyrinth and, using the ging gear, his group took nearly found marked by rope and a large map, toured the main hall and the seven hours to reach the previous carbide bottle, but the borehole had river that flows in from the north, end from the entrance. Therefore experienced a major flood since the possibly the same river seen near last trip there in 1995, and camp. And finally they visited the The top of the 209-meter pit in the rest of the camp gear was Caribbean Sea, a very large termi- So On Jan. Arniko Böke. gone. After an hour search- nal sump and the deepest point in ing through breakdown, the system. they found only three dam- Determined to find some airflow, aged Thermarests. Too tired they returned to some open leads to go back to Camp 1, they higher up. Eventually a passage spent a cold night sleeping with air was found heading off the under space blankets. That west side of the labyrinth. They the huge borehole had flood- came to a small lake, where Stan ed was a sobering thought. climbed up and over to a small pas- The next day they went to sage in the ceiling. While waiting, the terminal breakdown, Karlin crawled into a hole in the last seen during a survey wall. This large crawlway had great trip in 1991, above the Croc- airflow, and Karlin and Arniko odile Labyrinth. Stan and scooped for some fifteen minutes Karlin shimmied their way before turning around. It went, but up, down, and around, but was not spacious. They found Stan, found no good possibilities. who gave his lead a thumbs-up, so They slowly realized that they surveyed that way. The gallery the sound of a waterfall just was distinctly different from the beyond the blocks was in Labyrinth and quickly picked up fact the noise of airflow, more air, to the point of being chill- which in places nearly blew ing. After 150 meters, they were out their ceiling-burners. running out of light and time. Stan

30 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 scrambled through some muddy opened it, burning his hand rather realize a flood was coming. I looked breakdown for 80 meters to check severely. Stan had put used carbide up at the small passage above me ahead. It was narrow, blocky can- inside. and started hauling ass. At the same yon, but it had good airflow and The next morning they slowly time I screamed to the others, who was located almost directly below headed out, derigging and stashing were in the horizontal passage be- the terminal breakdown in the bore- the ropes in the wet series as they low, ‘Flood!’ Just as I did, the shaft hole. Of course, right at the end of went. The zone between –550 and below me filled with thundering the expedition . . . . –950 meters becomes an impassible water. I couldn’t imagine what had Returning through the new pas- maelstrom in high water, as was hit the others, but after twenty min- sage, Stan took a 3-meter fall that experienced in 1992, when a group utes I saw Arniko’s helmet coming scared them a bit, but Stan was only was stranded for fifty hours in up through the waterfall. Shortly bruised, luckily. Then near the ramp Camp 1. While jumaring up the 19- after came Stan. Both were high on up out of the Labyrinth they paused meter pit at –580 meters, Karlin adrenaline and soaked to the bone.” to take some pictures. The equip- heard a roar and stopped to listen. They had one more waterfall ment box exploded when Karlin “It took me some five seconds to pitch to climb before losing the

31 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Base camp during the 2000 expedition. Arniko Böke. returned to the surface to wait for the others. The two rerigged down to the point reached in 1998, where they continued into a small shaft taking water and corkscrewing down some 45 meters, to where it split, with strong airflow. The pit directly below continued wet, and a dry pit continued down a few meters to one side. A bolt was set, a David rappelled on down the dry one, but was left dangling at the end of the rope 20 meters below the rig point in a very large pit with a floor an estimated 30 meters below him. With water and strong airflow it remains a very promising lead, but time was against us, and the next day the Cerro Rabón camp for 2000 was closed. stream. The rope, which had been At last the real agente had reluc- damaged previously, was not even tantly granted permission, although eturning cavers were often visible in the torrent, so they made he did not want to be seen at our Rasked, “How did it go?” and a 25-meter climb up a chimney and camp, fearing that fellow members too often the reply was “Out of then, using the rope they had been of the PRD would accuse him of ac- rope!” In fact, the Cerro Rabón has carrying to replace the damaged cepting a bribe. gobbled up some 4 kilometers of one, executed a traverse over the A last-day push was made by rope, half of which is still rigged, waterfall to the canyon upstream. David, Karlin, and Peter in Hard and the number of known deep pits By now, an hour after the flood had Rock Cave, found and begun in has grown with each expedition. arrived, the water-level had already 1998. They descended quickly to Geologically, the plateau seems to dropped by a third. They then con- the first tight meander at –225 have lacked impermeable strata at tinued up into the “dry shafts,” meters. Taking 80 meters of rope the surface to collect surface waters which were certainly not dry, with them, Karlin and David slowly before dumping them into the lime- though no one had seen them wet squeezed through 6 meters of me- stone at the contacts, as apparently before, and they made a short stop ander to the 20-meter pit. Peter was happened at Cheve and Huautla. at the –400-meter level. Had they not able to make it through and Rain sank immediately and drained been slower lower down, so that the flood had hit them deeper in the zone of wet shafts, they would have been in a very bad situation. The bottom of the P199 was filled with heavy rain, and to go up the long, free pitch was out of the question. Luckily, some years before, Patrick Deriaz had rigged a drier route up the side of the shaft, where many rebelays made simultaneous climb- ing possible. Thought still quite wet, it went well, and they left the cave into daylight. A cloudburst had occurred, filling the water cis- terns in minutes and the cave at –600 meters two hours later. Wet and tired, the three returned to basecamp, which was still there. Formations in the Crocodile Labyrinth. Arniko Böke.

32 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 rapidly through over 1000 meters Kijahe had grown to 31,373 meters Cerro Rabón cavers have been of limestone before hitting the hy- long and 1223 meters deep. Al- caught in the crossfire. Although for drologic base level. The result is a though no booming borehole leads the most part the locals have been highly developed karst sieve of al- are known, many small ones are, very friendly and helpful, a small pine character: any small hole could and there is always that open win- opposition group that has recently lead to something big. There are dow in the wall of a pit that we for- come into power has made it clear probably myriads of vertical con- got to check . . . . we are no longer welcome. We duits yet undiscovered. To date we Having a good basecamp, usu- think it is obvious we are scape- have found no major underground ally a rented house near San Martín, goats in the local politics, but un- river or “main drain,” and the ubiq- has had many advantages. It pro- fortunately cultural differences also uitous presence of good airflow vided a comfortable and memo- play a role. Continued exploration near the surface and deep down rable place to cook, organize gear, in this area is uncertain, and future indicates that there is still much and socialize, including with local efforts will require some skilled di- more cave to be found. When one people, so it was a great morale- plomacy. views the plan of the Kijahe–So On booster and a fun part of the expe- Jan system superimposed on a topo dition experience. We have received generous support map, it is seen to underlie a small Unfortunately, after fifteen years from sponsors we would like to area of less than 2 square kilome- of visits to San Martín, our presence thank: Mountain Safety Research, ters, which is not much compared is not welcomed by all. In the last Sierra Designs, Pigeon Mountain to the 35 square kilometers of couple of years, intense political Industries, Malden Mills and the surface area so far considered. differences among the region’s in- Polartec Challenge Award, and After the 2000 expedition, the habitants have grown, and the Gonzo Guano Gear.

Cerro Rabón 1995–2000

Varias expediciones organizadas por espeleólogos suizos a la meseta de Cerro Rabón, en Oaxaca, se llevaron a cabo en 1995, 1997, 1998, 1999 y 2000. La principal cavidad del macizo es Kijahe Xontjoa, que a principios de 1995 tenía 1181 metros de profundidad y 19 kilómetros de longitud. Después de la expedición de 2000, la profundidad alcanzó los 1223 metros, y la longitud superó los 31 kilómetros. Hay muchos otros pozos en el área. En un radio de 100 metros desde la entrada a Kijahe hay tres pozos de más de 200 metros. Uno de ellos, So On Jan, conecta con Kijahe a –600 metros. A diferencia de las cercanas areas de Cheve y Huautla, en el Cerro Rabón no hay rocas impermeables en la superficie que colecten y concentren el agua , así que no hay ar- royos superficiales, ni siquiera en época de lluvias. Los suizos construyeron un sistema de recolección de agua de lluvia para la población de San Martín Caballero, cerca de su campamento base, pero a pesar de ello, problemas entre los lugareños han dificultado los viajes mas recientes, y se requerirá diplomacia para continuar los trabajos en el area.

33 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

TABASCO 2001

Bob Stucklen with a contribution by Jim Pisarowicz

n January 3, 2001, Jim Pisaro- tile floors, and hauled in some Mayan pottery shards in the en- Owicz, Abby Snow, my wife couches and chairs. Deb and I set trance room. In the same area is Deb, and I met at Dave Lester’s up our tent in one room, and Jim Gruta de los Mayas, where there are house in Littleton, Colorado, for the and Abby set up hammocks on the marks all around the walls of a start of our trip to the state of patio. small pit in the floor. Chucho said Tabasco in Mexico. Our mode of Next morning, caving gear in Mayan Indians made the marks as travel was Jim’s 1973 Pinzgauer, a hand, we met up with Nicanor, who they collected clay for making pot- surplus Swiss Army four-wheel- guided us down dirt roads for tery. drive truck that Jim had outfitted about ten kilometers east of Teapa The next day, January 11, Chucho with a plywood shell. Having been to a ranch, where we parked. For was unable to be with us, so we delayed two days in Texas by a fuel- an hour, our guide led us over a cleaned our gear, ran errands, and pump problem, we arrived at 2:00 muddy cow path, across a field, and went to Grutas de Coconá for a tour A.M. on January 9 at Teapa, Tabasco. over a log crossing a stream. The given by Nicanor. Nicanor asked Teapa is a city of about fifty thou- hike ended at the jungle hut of Deb for the English translations of located fifty kilometers south Chucho Guzmán and his family. all the things he said the formations of the state capitol, Villahermosa. Chucho was familiar with the looked like, such as an alligator or We set up camp at Grutas de nearby caves, which he explored a king, so that he could give the tour Coconá, a adjacent to when he did not have to tend the in English as well as Spanish. Deb Teapa. Before we left there in the landowner’s cattle. Chucho took us also translated Jim’s articles on morning, we met one of the guides, first to Gruta de las Canicas, deco- caves of Tabasco (see AMCS Activi- Nicanor Jiménez Palomenques. He rated with draperies, flowstone, ties Newsletters 16 and 17) into Span- told us of some unmapped caves in mammillaries, and rimstone ish and gave copies to Jim and the area and offered to guide us. throughout. He took us to a lower Nicanor the following week. One cave he described was called level full of dry rimstone pools con- During the next four days, we Gruta de las Canicas, which means taining cave pearls. At the lowest surveyed the three caves we had Cave of the Marbles. We arranged level, we were amazed to walk over been shown. Abby did an excellent to meet him at a bus stop near his a flat floor covered with cave pearls. job of sketching. January 13 was home the following morning. From there, Chucho led us to one spent visiting the zoological and We proceeded on to Tapijulapa, side of the room, where there was a archaeological park in Villahermosa. a small town thirty kilometers belly crawl. In the short crawlway, On January 15, Chucho informed us southeast of Teapa. Our objective the cave pearls acted as ball bear- he had made arrangements for us was to set up camp at the Centro ings for us to roll on. Shortly, we to meet with the Teapa officials on Cultural, where previous Villa Luz found ourselves in an extensive the following day. expedition participants had stayed. hallway, the floor being entirely On January 16, we met with the To our disappointment, the quarters covered with layers of cave pearls. government officials in the presi- were unavailable. Several alterna- We could readily scoop them up in dente’s office at the ayuntamiento in tive locations were suggested. We our hands. I took photos and Jim Teapa to report on our findings. settled on renting the second floor took videos using his digital cam- They were impressed with Jim’s of a cement home in the nearby vil- corder. We had never seen or heard videotape and Abby’s sketches of lage of La Pila for fifty dollars a of anything like this. A stoopway at Gruta de las Canicas. They offered month. The owners chased out the the end of the hall took us to a room us hotel accommodations in Teapa. chickens and turkeys, scrubbed the that rose to an exit. We gladly accepted their offer, since Chucho then took us to Gruta del this put us closer to the caves we Based on Deb Stucklen’s notes on Tigre and a small cave that we were surveying. the trip. named Tinaja. Tigre contained After spending a day relocating,

34 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 we continued surveying. We took to return with rope to check out the knowledge and efforts with Mexi- time to visit with the manager of a vertical drop located in a lower cans and to educate people in the nearby banana plantation to ask crevice of the left-hand wall. United States about Mexico’s ef- permission for me to fly in to their After a day of rest and errands, forts to solve its problems. We made airstrip next year. On the twentieth, we returned to Gruta de la Sierra arrangements to accompany the of- a rainy day, Jim and Abby set out to with climbing gear. Jim and Abby ficials on January 30 to some of the survey between the cave entrances rappelled the drop, but the lower caves. and map Gruta Reconocida, which passages were choked with mud. The period from the twenty-sixth was home to a colony of vampire We took photos and videos in the and the twenty-ninth was spent tak- bats. In the meantime, Deb and I cave. The next day, Jim and Abby ing Abby to her bus in Villahermosa went to the nearby library to find returned once more, and this time to return home, caving in Villa Luz, out more about Teapa. they found drops leading to well- and touring the Palenque ruins. On January 21, Chucho accompa- decorated passages and a small On January 30, cave gear ready, nied us in the Pinzgauer to where the villagers in we met an official dressed in street we could hike to a large cave that Arcadio Zentella had spoken of. clothes in Teapa to go caving at we named Gruta Mayor del Parque Meanwhile Deb and I took photos Grutas de las Canicas, de los Mayas, Estadal de la Sierra, near Arcadio of Mayan artifacts at the museum and del Tigre. We made sure to Zentella, a small village eleven kilo- at Grutas de Coconá. bring all our lights and spare helmets. meters east of Teapa. Gruta de la Thursday, January 25, we were There were twelve more officials Sierra was located on a steep jungle invited to meet with numerous from Teapa and Villahermosa wait- hillside a 3-kilometer hike from the government officials at the ayunta- ing for us when we arrived, all of village. It had three entrances with miento to hear their environmental them in street clothes. We walked large breakdown blocks sloping and economic concerns for the re- to the Guzmán hut, where Chucho steeply down to numerous flow- gion. They discussed the depletion met us, beaming joyously. We stone . A column at of the rain forests, endangered ani- shared our caving gear as much as least 20 meters in height was covered mals, drought, pollution, over- possible. The officials were im- with cauliflower-like protrusions. population, health, and education. pressed with the cave pearls in This was, by far, the largest cave we They asked what the caving com- Canicas, the pottery shards in Tigre, visited on our trip. We would need munity could do to coordinate and the ancient finger scrapings in

35 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

36 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Two Hundred Million Cave Pearls?

A trip into the Pasaje de las day, I remarked to the other cavers in hand the number of cave pearls Canicas in Gruta de las Canicas on the trip that I had never seen could be estimated. is a truly amazing journey. Most such an assemblage of cave pearls, The calculation indicates that cavers’ previous cave experiences and I had never heard of such a col- Gruta de las Canicas contains do not prepare them for the sight lection of cave pearls in any other about two hundred million cave of a spacious passage that goes on cave. I thought that an estimate of pearls. Of course this figure is and on with a floor deeply cov- the number of cave pearls in the only a rough estimate, because ered in cave pearls. Until I saw cave would be appropriate. the samples were not taken in this passage I could not have My method to come up with the truly random locations. Another imagined such a sight. We were number of pearls in the cave was problem with the estimate is that not the first people to enter this fairly simple and very crude, but below the loose cave pearls, the fabulous cave. My field notes probably gives a general ballpark floor of the passage consists of from a 1988 trip into the area in- estimate. On one trip into the cave cemented cave pearls, so the ac- dicate that Peter Lord mentioned I carried a small piece of PVC pipe. tual depth of the pearls is deeper a cave with lots of cave “marbles.” I pushed this pipe down into the than I sampled. Still, this figure We did not check out that lead at cave pearls at ten different spots in provides an initial rough estimate the time, because we were occu- the Pasaje de las Canicas. I scooped of the number of cave pearls in pied with other caves, as described the pearls from around the pipe, this cave. Future trips into Cani- in AMCS Activities Newsletters 16 slid a piece of flat aluminum under cas will try to refine this prelimi- and 17. The cave entrance is a it, lifted it, and then counted the nary result. stone’s throw from Gruta de los number of pearls in it. I then calcu- It is intriguing to think about Mayas, in which Sr. Guzmán lated the average number of how such a vast number of cave found Mayan artifacts that are pearls for the ten different sample pearls could have formed in this now in a Tabascan museum. An locations. Dividing by the cross- cave. The standard mechanism article on the cave by Roberto sectional area of the PVC pipe gave for the growth of cave pearls Porter Núñez appeared in the the number of pearls per unit area. seems woefully inadequate to August 1999 issue of México From the map of the cave I esti- explain Canicas’ pearls. Further Desconocido. mated the total floor space that was research is definitely warranted. After leaving Canicas that first covered in pearls. With these data —Jim Pisarowicz

Typical cave pearls. Bob Stucklen.

37 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

38 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Mayas. They returned to their ve- hicles muddy and happy. The next day, the three of us re- turned to Canicas for a final photo trip. On February 1, we bid farewell to our hosts, and drove north to- ward home.

e are all concerned about the Wfuture of Gruta de las Canicas if it is opened as a show cave. Even though its cave pearls are abundant (see the sidebar), the collection of souvenirs could easily reduce this unique national treasure to a bar- ren place.

Tabasco 2001

En enero de 2001 se topografiaron varias cuevas en la vecindad de Tapijulapa, Tabasco, entre las que se incluye la Gruta de las Canicas, que presenta grandes extensiones del piso cubiertas por cerca de doscientos millones de perlas de caverna.

The Pasaje de las Canicas. Bob Stucklen.

39 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

THE EXPLORATION OF SISTEMA OX BEL HA

Bil Phillips

he Ox Bel Ha Cave System, Cenote much deeper in the jungle. Esmeralda and, later, moved to TQuintana Roo, encompasses After two hours of bushwhacking newly discovered Cenote Amber 70,693* meters of surveyed and and marching along unmarked Sun. The hike in was now only an mapped underwater cave passage, paths, we arrived at the largest col- hour and a half, and the explorers with a maximum depth of 33 meters lapse area we had ever seen, a 500- continued to walk in and out daily and an average depth of 15 meters. meter stretch of the most pristine along rough jungle tracks. The ex- There are a total of forty-four cen- jungle one could imagine. We all istence of the camp simplified lo- otes connected to the system. The stood speechless, gazing into the gistics and reduced the loads that halocline is at a depth of about 9 waters of Cenote Canales. had to be carried in and out of the meters where the empties Canales was beautiful, but it was jungle, but the long hikes still in- into the Caribbean Sea and about 18 also the home of a thriving croco- creased the risks of dehydration meters in the cave’s inland reaches. dile population. Two years would and injury. Nevertheless, the first Ox Bel Ha extends beneath a wide pass before we returned to it. This Esmeralda expedition was a great range of pristine terrains, from the trip, having studied aerial photo- success. The four divers completed ocean shoreline through man- graphs of the area, Sam and Bil a total of twenty-nine dives, with groves, salt marsh, and saw grass trudged farther back into the jungle bottom times often exceeding four to the dense jungle that hosts a to another staggering discovery. hours, and explored and surveyed myriad of plant and animal forms. The Emerald Cenote, Esmeralda, over 11 kilometers of cave passages Remains of walls and pyramid proved to be a large open-water connecting a total of eight entrance mounds witness previous occupa- pool over 170 meters in length, cenotes. tion by ancient Maya throughout sunken 12 meters below the sur- the area. rounding jungle, and with two is- HIKIN HA, JUNE 1998 TO MARCH The discovery and exploration lands in the middle. This was too C1999. While Bil, Sam, Fred, and of Ox Bel Ha has taken years and is exciting to ignore, and the hike back Daniel were investigating the Esme- still going on. It was in February to civilization passed quickly in ralda system, Bernd Birnbach and 1996 that Orane Douxami, Travis non-stop discussion of what we had Christophe le Maillot were pursu- Mack, Sam Meacham, and Bil Phil- seen and its ramifications. Some- ing what at least at first appeared lips embarked on a jungle adven- how even then it was clear that this to be an unrelated effort starting ture with two Mayan guides in would be the start of something big. from Cenote Del Mar. The French search of new cenotes. In the pre- The very next day, a reconnaissance Cave Diving Federation had begun ceding months, Juan Toon and Juan dive confirmed our belief that this exploration from nearby Cenote Garcia had escorted us to several was going cave. It would take an- Tarpon with some 300 meters of other cenotes in the dense Yucatan other eighteen months of meeting line, and subsequently Steve Ger- jungles south of Tulúm. We were with the owner, Ejido Jose Maria rard, Tamara Kendle, Steve Keene, looking for an elusive Emerald Pino Suarez, planning, and hard and Sue Sharples connected to this work to establish just how big the line from Cenote Del Mar. Continu- *This article was prepared for cave actually is. ing from a lead that Sharples had AMCS Actitivies Newletter 24, but found, Ted Cole and Tamara Kendle the map did not arrive in time. The SMERALDA, MAY-JUNE 1998. It was had then added an additional 1400 map is not up to date, but it gives a Etime for additional explorers to meters, bringing the total to about good idea of the complexity of the join the team. Fred Devos and 1800 meters. system. The statistics in the first Daniel Riordan joined Sam and Bil Bernd and Christophe resur- paragraph are obsolete. An update for a six-week expedition. Weeks of veyed all existing lines and made to the end of 2001 follows the origi- cutting 6 kilometers of horse trail new discoveries. By the end of a six- nal article. It has been compiled by were necessary before a day-camp month period, they had explored the editor from Bil Phillips’s report for a generator and equipment store and documented an additional 18 on the December 2001 expedition. could be established at Cenote kilometers of new cave and were

40 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 starting to reach the limits of what passage. Caves that had originally Daily excursions, now reaching an- could be accomplished in a single been separated by miles of jungle other half kilometer beyond the dive. This new cave system was were now tantalizingly close, and Esmeralda camp, through difficult Sistema Chikin Ha (Western Water). the time had come to recognize this. terrain, combined with very long Although access to the original en- In order to avoid the counter- dives, were out of the question. The try point was relatively easy, impen- productive competition that has time had come for a step up in the etrable mangrove prevented land plagued Mexican cave diving in the activity, a full-blown jungle base access to all cenotes inland from Del past, the three groups agreed that a camp. The first base camp was es- Mar. As penetration distances in- new name would be in order should tablished at Cenote Ya’ax Kai (Blue creased, scooters, multiple stage systems connect. The Mayan name Fish), which had previously been bottles, and then finally separate Ox Bel Ha, Three Paths of Water, discovered in the course of dives set-up dives were required. Having would encompass all the explora- from Esmeralda. After many weeks switched to a more flexible and self- tion, while still recognizing the of trail clearing, the comforts of reliant side-mount configuration, three teams’ efforts. home were left behind, as the first Bernd and Christophe, with help On March 13, 1999, the connec- camp-based expedition, which from Daniel Riordan, then pursued tion between Chikin Ha and Esme- lasted four weeks, commenced. the downstream side of Chikin Ha, ralda was achieved. It required a Sabine Schnittger joined the Esme- where an important discovery was dive of more than 3600 meters by ralda and Chikin Ha team members made. Sistema Chikin Ha drained Bernd and Christophe, using triple in a joint effort to push the far up- directly into the Caribbean Sea scooters and six stage bottles each, stream reaches from Cenote Ya’ax through a total of three vents. in addition to their back-mounted Kai. We also had full-time support: The two groups of explorers, in doubles. They started from Cenote Beto Segunza, the expedition horse Esmeralda and Chikin Ha, did not Del Mar, and their bottom time ex- Antar, and Don Celiano Herrera pursue their efforts in isolation. As ceeded eight hours. This accom- with his team of helpers, horses, the two cave systems unfolded, a plishment made the combined size and mules for transport of equip- connection between the systems of the cave over 33 kilometers, and ment and supplies. All members became increasingly likely. When the name Ox Bel Ha became official. now dived with side-mount equip- computer-generated maps of both The exploration and survey of the ment configurations for increased systems were overlaid on aerial 21 kilometers of cave in the Chikin self-sufficiency, and scooters and photographs of the region, our Ha part of the system had taken a double stage bottles became stan- hopes increased. Even allowing for total of fifty-nine dives. Fifteen cen- dard issue, allowing for a working errors in the surveys, the two cave otes were connected, and the three radius of over 2000 meters. Under- systems were probably only 500 connections to the ocean made. The water times averaged four hours. meters apart. Indeed, it became ap- farthest penetration was 4200 Several double-scooter, triple-stage parent that there might be another meters. The connection to Ya’ax dives were also performed by connection. Gary and Kay Walten Chen remains elusive to this day. buddy teams, in push dives in had been exploring the neighboring search of cenote entrances and fu- Sistema Ya’ax Chen (Blue-Green A’AX KAI, MAY 1999. Once ture camp sites yet farther into the Well). By connecting a chain of YEsmeralda and Chikin Ha had inland terrain. cenotes, they had succeeded in ex- been connected, further exploration Setting up a complete base camp ploring about 18 kilometers of new became a formidable proposition. over 6 kilometers back into the jungle presented serious physical and logistical challenges, but the trade-off came in the form of better surface support, more safety equip- ment, more manpower, better evacuation procedures and com- munications, and on-site map dis- play and data storage. Although the workload of daily chores and equipment maintenance took on new dimensions, expedition-style efficiency prevailed, allowing for maximum performance and re- duced physical stress. This paid off. In four weeks, with more than thirty- nine dives, the team of seven ex- plored and surveyed an unparalleled Cenote Esmeralda. Sabine Schnittger.

41 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

14 kilometers of new cave. At over , safely executed fifty-nine system in 1997 and explored 1208 47 kilometers, Sistema Ox Bel Ha dives. On the fourth day of explo- meters of passage on the upstream became the third longest known ration, Bil Phillips made the connec- side. Since that time, GEO members water-filled cave system in the tion to the Esmeralda section of Ox Bernd Birnbach, Fred Devos, Sam world. Five new cenotes were con- Bel Ha. The cave reached out in all Meacham, Bil Phillips, and Sabine nected. In addition, biologist Sam- directions, and exploration raised Schnittger added an additional antha Smith of the Centro Ecologico as many questions as it answered. 1672 meters to both the upstream de Akumal conducted hydrological Passages heading from Xux toward and downstream parts of the cave, studies, analyzed levels, Sistema Ya’ax Chen were blocked in establishing lines heading directly and sampled the water quality. In a tannic-water breakdown area toward Ox Bel Ha’s distant Jigsaw this rapidly developing and envi- within an estimated few hundred Reach. ronmentally threatened region of feet of connecting. At the end of the The year 2000 culminated in a Mexico, Ox Bel Ha’s water proved project, a staggering 24,021 meters ten-day December expedition using to be pristine. of passage had been explored and only a day-camp to store tanks and surveyed and sixteen new entrances equipment. From this location, ENOTE XUX, DECEMBER 1999. The discovered. The combined result of Steve Bogaerts, Fred Devos, Chris- Cexploration, documentation, 70,650 meters made Sistema Ox Bel tophe le Maillot, Bil Phillips, and and study of Ox Bel Ha now de- Ha the longest underwater cave in Daniel Riordan conducted several manded a much greater level of the world. With two large cave sys- dives into new passages. Chris- commitment and planning. In the tems, Ya’ax Chen (18 kilometers) tophe concentrated his efforts in the summer of 1999, the Grupo de and Naranjal (20 kilometers) nearby Naranjal area and was suc- Exploración Ox Bel Ha was formed. and several prospects for new base cessful in adding an additional 975 GEO’s founding members Bernd camps, it looked like work in this meters of passage. This route con- Birnbach, Fred Devos, Christophe colossal subterranean waterway tinues to wind its way downstream le Maillot, Sam Meacham, Bil Phil- had really just begun. through seemingly endless side- lips, Daniel Riordan, and Sabine mount restrictions and complex Schnittger established this non- THER CAVE SYSTEMS, 2000. By the cave. Daniel worked the deeper, profit organization. After studying Oend of 1999, exploration of Ox saltwater leads to investigate places aerial photographs and making Bel Ha had been an unqualified suc- believed to hold possible break- many jungle hikes, GEO concluded cess. However, along with the throughs. Ultimately, this ended in that exploration should continue in vastly increased size of the system disappointment. Sistema Naranjal the vicinity of the southwestern part came correspondingly high logis- now sits at 21,336 meters of ex- of the system at two cenotes, Cen- tics costs. In 2000 GEO turned its plored cave, and a connection to Ox ote Xux (Wasp) and Cenote Xix efforts toward the surrounding and Bel Ha is even closer. (Dust), whose existence had origi- more accessible cave systems Ya’ax By the end of the expedition, nally been established through Chen and Naranjal. Several at- Sistema Ayim had been surveyed to aerial photos. They had not been tempts to connect Ya’ax Chen to Ox 8,166 meters. Yet a connection to Ox connected to Ox Bel Ha, but they Bel Ha from the Ya’ax Chen side Bel Ha could not be found. As the lay in an open section of land be- were unsuccessful, in spite of its lines were laid and the pattern of tween the Esmeralda part of the close proximity. Exploration dives the new passages emerged, it be- system and Ya’ax Chen. Underwa- were conducted in the down- came clear that the main trunk pas- ter investigation of this area had stream section of Sistema Naranjal. sage was veering off to the south, initially proved frustrating. Myste- Christophe and Bil discovered a away from the destination we had rious water movement and confus- hidden restriction and added 760 anticipated, and heading toward an ing passageways suggested that a meters of passage. It was a break- even more distant part of upstream large breakdown area would pre- through that had eluded explorers Ox Bel Ha. Further exploration will vent this section from ever being for several years. Named Snakes be required. Our efforts are not fin- connected to Ox Bel Ha. But an ini- Man’s Escape, this side-mount pas- ished in this region. tial reconnaissance dive performed sage winds its way southeast to- by Fred found several passages that ward Ox Bel Ha through a multitude s this is being written, GEO is could potentially connect to Ox Bel of restrictions with considerable Apursuing exciting new leads. Ha. The leads looked promising, water flow. Just weeks before the Ayim project, and the decision was taken to risk a A cave called Ayim (Crocodile) Jim Coke and Sam Meacham lo- base camp at Xux in the hope of is located approximately 2.5 kilo- cated a cenote in a strategic posi- connecting it with Ox Bel Ha. meters inland from the farthest up- tion between Naranjal and Ox Bel The camp established at Xux stream reaches of the Ox Bel Ha Ha. Jim and Sam were able to verify proved to be the foundation for system. This cenote covers an area both upstream and downstream GEO’s most successful expedition of about 40 by 300 meters of marshy leads from this Cenote Andreas. to date. During the two-week proj- collapse containing a total of five Another important discovery was ect, team members dived in shifts open pools. Cave explorers Gary made on New Years Eve. Two kilo- and, with the help of field-blended and Kay Walten first discovered the meters inland from the farthest

42

AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 reaches of Ox Bel Ha, Cenote Chuup Hill, Diver Dave, and the Grand inland from the Caribbean Sea. In Ich (Swollen Eye) had been found Pooh Bah. The following gave sup- addition to collecting data for hy- on an aerial photograph. Steve port and assistance: Jane Emerson drological studies, the goals of this Bogaerts, Bil Phillips, and a trans- (Corey Electrical Engineering), Paul phase were to connect Sistema port crew hacked their way out to Beale and Vickie McNair (Aqua- Ayim into the system and find a Chuup Ich with one set of side- nauts ), Joe Borovic, way from upstream Chuup Ich into mount gear to make a recon dive. Bart and June Bjorkman (Enviro the system without passing through The effort found 600 meters of new Dive Services), Lewis Cadenas open water in the cenote. On De- cave in both upstream and down- (Baure Compressors Miami), James cember 1, sixteen tanks, three diver- stream passages. Chuup Ich is Coke IV, Ross Cowell, Juan Chio, propulsion vehicles, three large bracketed by Naranjal and Ayim. Bob Hemm (Explorers Club of New packs of diving gear, two closed- It was decided to use closed-cir- York), Ivan Hernandez and Daniel circuit , tarps, and sup- cuit rebreathers to see exactly what Corredor (Aguakan SA de CV), plies for a single attendant were Chuup Ich has to offer. All our pre- Lamar Hires (Dive Rite), Eric carried over the 2-kilometer trail to vious explorations utilized open- Huurre (Skywriter Productions), Cenote Kristen. While the attendant circuit scuba, and to our knowledge Greg and Sally Hrehovecsic, An- watched the camp twenty-four closed-circuit technol- drew Pitkin (), hours a day, the divers and other ogy had not been used for shallow, Buddy Quattlebaum (Hidden Worlds support people walked in to the long-distance exploration here in Dive Center), the directors of the cenote each day in order to reduce Mexico before. Steve and Bil con- Quintana Roo Speleological Survey, the amount of food and camping ducted a mini-project from March Gunnar and Lina Wagner (Aktun equipment needed there. 31 to April 3, 2001. Utilizing Buddy Dive Center), and Mike Way (Colo- A total of three rebreather dives Inspiration rebreathers, we learned rado Alliance for Environmental and four open-circuit dives in side- a tremendous amount about the Education.) mount configuration were per- technology and were also success- And special thanks to the land- formed safely. More than 1800 ful in establishing the promise of owners, the Ejido Jose Maria Pino meters of new passage were explored the new cave system. Three dives Suarez and Commisario Mariono and surveyed. The rebreathers resulted in 2400 meters of new cave. Dzul and the Ejido Tulúm. And our proved valuable for extending bot- With the original 600 meters, crew Beto Seguenza, Don Miguel tom times to over four hours with- Chuup Ich holds a total of over 3 Chiu, Don Selliano Herrera, Santos out requiring or kilometers of surveyed and map- Mejia, Sr., Santos Mejia, Jr., Don large amounts of gas. But the some- ped passages, along with two ad- Melesion, William, Jose, and Cristino. what bulky profile of the rebreathers ditional entrances. prevented the divers from penetrat- Grupo de Exploración Ox Bel Ha: ing a silty breakdown section toward Our fellow cave diver, friend, and Bernd Birnbach, Ayim. A switch to side-mounts was first patron was Steven Douglas Steve Bogaerts, England made, but even that was not effec- Corey. When our ability to continue Fred Devos, tive. So much silt was stirred up by our self-supported efforts was ex- Christophe le Maillot, the pairs of divers that a very dan- hausted, Steve, believing in and Sam Meacham, U. S. A. gerous situation developed. Further sharing our vision, stepped in. Bil Phillips, Canada attempts would have to be made by Without his involvement, most of Daniel Riordan, Mexico solo divers, but time ran out. what we have accomplished would Sabine Schnittger, Germany Sistema Ayim and its 8000 meters not have taken place. He will not of passage were still waiting, just be with us to take part in future PDATE 2001. The Corey Memo- out of grasp. projects. On November 9, 1999, he Urial Expedition, December 1–14, Fred Devos attempted to find a lost a two-year battle with cancer. 2001, was a flag expedition of the way around Cenote Chuup Ich, but On April 25, 2000, Steve found his Explorers Club and sponsored by could not, though he found a final resting place in Sistema Ox Bel the Steven Douglas Corey Memo- new passage heading in the wrong Ha when his ashes were set free in rial Fund and other contributors. It direction. Devos also took a water- Cenote Esmeralda. The pursuit of included the first jungle camps data-recording probe to five loca- our goals now has even greater since December 1999, but the Grupo tions in the system for Patricia meaning to us all. Thank you, Exploración Ox Bel Ha had not been Beddows. Corey. idle. Mini-projects from cenotes The second phase of the expedi- GEO would like to thank all its with comparatively easy access had tion was conducted from Cenote contributors for their support in our connected two systems to Ox Bel Ha Odyssey, near the middle of Ox Bel efforts here in Mexico’s Riviera within the past year, adding kilo- Ha and strategically located near Maya: Standish Meacham, Don Keele meters to its length. Sistema San Andrés. On December and Joan Huton, Dave, Renate, and The first phase of the expedition 6, the whole camp was moved to James Christy (Rendezvous Char- used a supply base at Cenote Kristen, Odyssey. This camp included food, ters), Joe Anthony and Heidi Deja, near the farthest upstream part of a generator, a compressor, a two- Jane Morrison, Jana Smith, Gerry Ox Bel Ha, more than 7 kilometers hundred-pound K-bottle of

45 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

The Cenote Ayim collapsed area. Sabine Schnittger. 13 meters, below the halocline, and through heavy silt, multiple restric- tions, and crumbling walls. After an hour of spooling line off his reel and occasionally back onto it, he finally broke through into clear water that led him to the line that had been installed by Fred Devos in Sistema Ayim back in December 2000. So that connection was finally made, and Ox Bel Ha now extended over 9 kilometers from the coast. for mixing nitrox, and a 14-by-24- Meacham logged all the survey Diving from base camp, Bogaerts foot tent, all hauled over 2 kilome- data into a computer in base camp, made a final attempt to extend his ters of trail. The first dive was by which provided an overall view of lines closer to Sistema Naranjol. On Bil Phillips, who needed to alter the the progress in relation to other a dive with a DPV and five tanks, existing lines. When he had origi- caves. As expected, the downstream he added another 523 meters, but nally explored this section, he had lines in Sistema Naranjol are di- he was unable to make the elusive reached it from a distant cenote, so rectly upstream from the new con- connection and returned the 1800 the directional markers on the line nection to San Andrés, and Sistema meters to camp. pointed the wrong way for this Ayim is just inland from the new On December 14, the expedition project. Phillips also collected water passages found during phase 1. In was over. During phase 2, seventeen data for Beddows at three locations. the few days remaining, it was de- dives were made, and more than 3 Then Daniel Riordan and Phillips cided to push these locations. kilometers of new passage sur- explored to the north, attempting to Bil Phillips made a solo dive from veyed. find a route past Barrier Cenote. Cenote Coca Ha, 4 kilometers from In addition to data gathered for They worked their way along a base camp. One horse carried four Patricia Beddows that will give a horizontal crack some 60 meters tanks, and another a pack of dive clearer understanding of the hy- wide but only 2 meters high for over gear and a DPV. A five-foot crocodile drology of the area, the exploration 300 meters, until they could go no had been seen in this brown-water efforts of the Grupo Exploración Ox farther. Devos and Riordan ex- cenote two days before, but none Bel Ha brought the total length of plored to the northeast, discovering was seen the day of the dive. De- the world’s longest water-filled cave huge saltwater-filled , as scending quickly, Phillips began his to about 96.8 kilometers. It is now well as some shallower passages dive to the end of the lines previ- the longest cave in Mexico. There with fresh water. Over 1500 meters ously installed during dives out of are a total of fifty-seven cenotes tied of new line was installed in this Cenote Kristen. In thirty minutes, into the system. Sistema Ox Bel Ha area, which was mostly completed. the DPV hauled him 1100 meters to is only one of the numerous water- Steve Bogaerts pushed the Aluxe’s where new exploration could begin. filled networks in this part of the Plain part of the cave toward Sis- After fastening the DPV and one Yucatan Peninsula. Continuing ex- tema San Andrés. The existing lines, bottle to the line, he went on with ploration will reveal the secrets of which had been laid in 1999, ended three tanks. His route took him on this fragile underground environ- in low bedding planes. On Bogaerts’s a winding course with depths as ment, where rapid development is first dive, he was able to install only shallow as 1 meter and as deep as occurring above. 70 meters of new line, but persis- tence paid off. On the third try, he slipped through a small, silty crack and, though still in low passage, En febrero de 1996, se descubrió en Quintana Roo una laid 600 meters of line. This route nueva cueva en el Cenote Esmeralda. A través de los led him into a huge room and then años, mediante la exploración subacuática y la conexión on to Sistema San Andrés, some de otras cuevas, el Sistema Ox Bel Ha creció hasta 1500 meters from base. The 2100 alcanzar los 96.8 kilómetros de longitud. Es la cavidad meters of San Andrés were thus added to Ox Bel Ha. mas larga de México y la mayor cavidad subacuática en Meanwhile, Sam Meacham, Rior- el mundo. Tiene cincuenta y dos entradas distintas, todas dan, and Phillips worked westward cenotes. El mapa no se encuentra al día, pero muestra la from Cenote Odyssey, finding 1500 complejidad de esta caverna. meters of previously unknown pas- sage.

46 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

WHERE DOES THE SEWAGE GO? THE KARST GROUNDWATER SYSTEM OF MUNICIPALIDAD SOLIDARIDAD, QUINTANA ROO

Patricia Beddows

he one and a half meters of rain However, more than 99 percent of other locations worldwide. The Tfalling on the Caribbean coast the actual fresh-water flow in the overlying fresh water flows coast- of the Yucatan peninsula each year system occurs within the extensive ward and entrains the underlying is rapidly absorbed into the ex- flooded cave systems, where water saline water due to friction across posed limestone rock, where it velocities exceed several kilometers the halocline. This causes the upper forms a thin but extensive under- per day (Beddows, 1999). These sys- part of the saline water to flow in ground layer of fresh, potable wa- tems are analogous to underground parallel towards the coast. Mixing ter. The flow of groundwater rivers that link the interior of the across the halocline may also play through small fractures and joints Yucatan peninsula to the numerous a significant role in transferring sa- in the rock over thousands of years coastal springs, such as Xel Ha, line water and other solutes or sus- has slowly dissolves the rock to , Yalka, and Cenote Manati pended solids it may hold into the form interconnected cave systems, (Casa Cenote). fresh-water lens. The coastward where conduits often measure more The fresh-water layer floats on an flow of saline water will cause more than 5 meters in diameter. Almost extensive body of salt water that is ocean water to flow into the penin- fifty cave systems have been ex- chemically similar to Caribbean Sea sula. The amount of mixing that plored within the limits of the water. The high of occurs at the halocline is partly con- Municipalidad de Solidaridad, salt and other minerals in the saline trolled by , which have a which encompasses a region from water makes it dense enough to pumping effect on the aquifer. Tidal Playa del Carmen on the coast in the support the lighter fresh-water pumping is strongest at the coast northeast to the inland town of layer. The interface where mixing and decreases in strength with dis- in the southwest. The total takes place between the fresh and tance inland. The well-connected length of known water-filled cave saline water is called the halocline. cave systems are very effective at exceeds 350 kilometers (Quintana The fresh-water layer varies from 5 transmitting tidal within the Roo Speleological Survey, 2002), meters thick near the coast to more Yucatan aquifer, and tidal variations and indeed the area is a world-class than 20 meters thick 10 kilometers in water level have been measured type example of cenote karst. inland. at 40 percent of the ocean amplitude The vast majority (97 percent) of Circulation of saline water is 5 kilometers inland at Far Point Sta- the available fresh water is stored known to occur beneath coastal and tion in Sistema Nohoch Nah Chich in the aquifer matrix, which is a island in the Bahamas, in Solidaridad (Beddows, 1999). very porous young limestone rock. , Puerto Rico, and many In addition to the of the coastward-flowing fresh water and A previous version was published salvaguarda de los ecosistemas frágiles the loss of saline water by mixing as: Beddows, P., Smart, P., Whitaker, en Solidaridad. Edited by J.A. Huerta across the halocline, various other F. and Smith, S. 2001. A Donde van Illescas, G. Pérez de la Fuente, C. forces have been identified that may las aguas residuales? El acuifero Llorens Cruset, and A. Dzay Gra- drive circulation in the underlying carstico de la Municipalidad de niel. Honorable Ayuntamiento de saline water. Differences in ocean- Solidaridad, Quintana Roo, México: Solidaridad, Dirección General de water elevation on opposite sides of Where does the Sewage Go? The Administración Urbana, Dirección the Yucatan Peninsula may drive karst groundwater system of the de Medio Ambiente, Playa del circulation simply by gravity. Municipalidad de Solidaridad, Carmen, Quintana Roo, pp. 168- Geothermal heat may increase the Quintana Roo, Mexico. In A la 178. of deep saline water,

47 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 reducing its and generating of both fresh and saline water must flooded cave passages. buoyant circulation of saline water be an integral part of the hydrologi- We must be concerned about the masses. Similar density-driven cal model on which water usage water quality of the flooded cave circulation may arise when very and waste disposal policies are environment, because groundwater saline and dense water is created by based. is the only source of potable water evaporation in restricted lagoons or The Municipalidad de Solida- in the region. The cenotes used for the dissolution of evaporite miner- ridad relies 100 percent on ground- potable water are generally those als. This dense water may then sink water. The groundwater may be farther from the coast, as they have down through the aquifer, inducing easily accessed in areas where the lower salt content. A good example groundwater flows (Whitaker and ceiling of a cave has dissolved or of an inland cenote used for drink- Smart, 1993). At present we have collapsed downwards, forming a ing water is Cenote Chemuyil, lo- only limited understanding of the cenote. Cenotes occur above caves cated 5.7 kilometers from the coast; character and the mechanisms driv- and therefore often provide direct it supplies water for developments, ing the fresh and saline groundwa- access to water-filled cave passages except Akumal Beach, along High- ter circulation of the Caribbean where the groundwater flow is way 307 from just south of Puerto Yucatan Peninsula aquifer, but ob- concentrated. Well-known cenotes Aventuras to Xel-Ha. Larger luxury servations since early 2000 indicate include Gran Cenote, Cenote Eden, resorts often supply their water that the water discharging from the and Car Wash Cenote. Alternatively, needs by drawing from supply cen- Caribbean Yucatan cave systems via the cenote may open into areas of dry otes or wells located on the farthest submarine springs and caletas is cave that sump at a groundwater inland borders of their property, as approximately one-third to three- pool, such as at Aktun Chen. is the case in Puerto Aventuras. quarters saline water. It is clear from Whether semi-dry or water filled, Resorts without inland properties the large volumes of saline water these cenotes attract locals and tour- often draw groundwater from leaving the aquifer that large vol- ists for recreational activities such coastal cenotes or wells and use de- umes of saline water must be mov- as swimming, , bird salination plants to deal with the ing beneath the fresh-water layer in watching, picnicking, and even slightly brackish groundwater at Solidaridad. This active circulation technical into the those locations. The larger cities and towns such as Cancún (outside Solidaridad), Playa del Carmen, and Tulúm all rely on inland well- fields located more than 10 kilome- ters from the coast.

roundwater is not only a re- Gsource for water supply and aquatic activities, but also serves as a route to dispose of sewage efflu- ent. The population of Solidaridad is growing at a phenomenal rate, and thus a corresponding increase in the amount of sewage generated poses a real challenge. At present, sewage effluent is handled in a va- riety of different ways while an adequate infrastructure is being planned and developed. Municipalidad Soakaway pits or cesspits are de Solidaridad used in many isolated and rural areas. They are also common, how- ever, in many settlements, such as Pueblo Aventuras, Pueblo Akumal, and developing areas of Playa del Carmen, where there is no central- ized provision for sewage collection or treatment. Soakaway or cesspit sewage is discharged into a hole in the ground, through which it enters the fresh-water layer. This sewage is generally untreated and may transmit pathogenic and viruses into the groundwater.

48 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Tourist scuba divers preparing for a cavern tour at Cenote Taj Mahal. Edward Mallon. Septic tanks are commonly used for individual homes and small de- velopments, although they are highly unsuitable for use in Solida- ridad. Septic tanks are designed to allow fecal solids to settle out of the liquid and pass the liquid into a drainage field. This drainage field should be in thick soil so that natural breakdown of nutrients and die-off of hazardous bacteria and viruses may occur. The soil cover in Soli- daridad is very thin, rarely exceed- ing 20 centimeters, and is discon- tinuous, with extensive outcrops of bare rock. The soil is physically in- capable of retaining liquid effluent long enough to provide the neces- sary slow filtration. When passed too rapidly, live bacteria and viruses created wetlands and composting that passes through the soil layer may be transported to the lens of toilets, particularly in Puerto More- will contaminate the surface of the fresh groundwater. los and in Akumal. Created wet- fresh-water lens. During the rainy The solids collected in septic lands are suitable for use with wet season or at peak occupancy times, tanks must be emptied regularly, waste such as from flush toilets and excess treated effluent from the re- approximately every six months to showers. They rely on a closed ce- sorts is disposed of via injection two years, or sewage solids will also ment basin with a well-designed wells that penetrate to depths of 60 overflow into the drain field and plant-soil-gravel filtration system. meters or greater as per Comisión into the groundwater system. The effluent is not released into the Nacional del Agua mandate. Homeowners are sometimes proud environment, but rather is taken up Sewage effluent is a mixture of of never having to empty their sep- and converted into vegetation, fresh, low-density water with hu- tic tanks, but this is a likely indica- which must be trimmed and cut man waste, greases, and chemicals tor of groundwater contamination. down regularly. Composting toi- such as soap products from kitchens, Some developments rely on sim- lets, on the other hand, are a dry laundry facilities, and bathrooms. ple, centralized sewage retaining system where an outhouse-style The overall mixture is lighter and tanks, particularly when situated toilet is used to collect the feces and less dense than the saline water into immediately on the beach ridge or urine. The waste is composted be- which it is pumped, and the efflu- surrounded by mangrove. These low the toilet basin, and the unit is ent will float upward through the tanks are pumped out periodically kept odorless by the use of a small limestone matrix until it reaches the by ten-thousand-liter “aguas negras” electric fan. Despite these two sys- halocline. At the halocline, some trucks. Personal observations and tems being the most sustainable mixing into the fresh water occurs, numerous reports from local resi- method in this karst environment, particularly within two kilometers dents suggest that these trucks they remain underutilized in this the coast, where tidal pumping of sometimes illicitly dump their raw region and should be aggressively the aquifer is the strongest. Even if sewage load onto the floor of aban- promoted. the effluent mixes adequately with doned along Highway 307, The large tourist developments the saline water once it is injected where the surface limestone has along the coast are increasingly de- into the ground and does not buoy- been removed down to often less pendent on modern multi-stage antly rise, it may still be carried by than 1 meter above the . sewage-treatment plants. In the the inland circulation of the saline It is unknown how prevalent this cases of Puerto Aventuras Resort, water and eventually discharge at practice is, but the possibility of this Barcelo Hotel, Moon Palace Resort, the coast onto the . Both sce- moving and intermittent raw sew- and Bahía Príncipe, among others, narios may compromise the qual- age source must be considered in large volumes of the treated efflu- ity of the fresh-water layer from any case of suspected contamina- ent are used for landscape and golf- below, and there may also be direct tion. course irrigation, where much of discharge of contaminated saline There is a growing reliance on the nutrients is consumed by the water to the coastal caletas and “ecological” self-contained sewage- vegetation if the liquid is retained springs. treatment systems in the form of by the thin soil layer. Any excess The discharge of contaminated

49 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 brackish water can adversely affect coastal environments. Groundwa- ter-tracing experiments in Sistema Nohoch Nah Chich have shown that the fresh water may travel more than 2 kilometers per day (Bed- dows, 1999), which is typical of groundwater flow rates in cave sys- tems. At such flow rates, waste will travel quickly through the caves away from the point source and is unlikely to be adequately dispersed General model of groundwater circulation in the density-strati- or diluted. Groundwater-tracing fied karst aquifer on the Caribbean coast of Quintana Roo. experiments in the Florida Keys, a Sewage effluent pumped into a disposal well may circulate karst environment similar to that of the Caribbean Yucatan shore where inland and then to springs on the coast. effluent-disposal wells have also may in fact represent a healthy re- ground will ultimately be dis- been used, have shown tracers trav- sult for natural water bodies, a low charged onto the coastal barrier reef eling from the disposal well to the or even zero count may not indicate system via coastal springs, caletas, marine surface water at a rate of 840 that the water is free from treated and groundwater seeps in the sand. meters per day, thus highlighting sewage. The profusion of marine life in the the potential for rapid deterioration An alternative strategy to assess coral-reef environment belies its of near-shore water quality (Paul et water quality, particularly where fragile nature. The system is very al., 1997). Most of the disposal wells contamination from treated sewage easily disturbed by excess nutrients in Solidaridad are associated with is suspected, is to test for elevated such as nitrates and phosphates. resorts on the coastal side of High- levels of nutrients such as nitrates, reproduce rapidly in re- way 307 and are less than 2 kilome- phosphates, and ammonia that de- sponse to added nutrients, and ters from the coast. This is precisely rive from sewage effluent and for these form unsightly and uninvit- the zone prone to host major caves, changes in physical characteristics ing green mats covering the coral which are known to occur at depths of the water such as the amount of forests, limiting the sunlight that similar to that to which the disposal dissolved oxygen, which is de- reaches them and ultimately killing wells are drilled, 60 to 100 meters. pleted when organic waste from them. Thus the possibility for rapid move- effluent is present. ment of injected wastewater is very Significant additions of nutrients he intensive exploration and high. to the groundwater may disturb Tsurvey of flooded cave pas- The most common test for raw the ecological balance of a hidden sages on the Caribbean coast of the sewage contamination is to deter- environment where unique and en- Yucatan Peninsula begun in the mine the number of fecal coliform demic species are found, such as 1980s now provides a unique op- bacteria present in 100 milliliters of remipedes and blind cave fish portunity to access the interior of water. Every warm-blooded animal, (Escobar-Briones et al., 1997; Iliffe, an aquifer. In 2000, the University including livestock and humans, 1992). At present, only limited stud- of Bristol’s Carbonate Processes harbors fecal coliform bacteria in its ies of nutrient cycling have been and Palaeoenvironments Research digestive system. Natural water undertaken on these submerged Group launched an integrated, bodies are expected to have some cave environments (Pohlman et al., multidisciplinary research program fecal coliform present, sometimes to 1997; Yager and Madden, 2002), but to better understand the aquifer on levels of several tens of colonies per general knowledge of semi-closed the Caribbean coast of the Yucatan 100 milliliters of water. Fecal coli- ecosystems suggests that persistent by using technical cave diving to form bacteria do not necessarily or intermittent nutrient loading access and instrument the flooded directly affect human health, but from sewage effluent can induce an cave passages. The principal aims they serve as an indicator of sew- explosion in the number of primary of this research are to better under- age effluent contamination that consumers, followed by a popula- stand the character of and controls may also carry more serious patho- tion crash if the nutrient source is on the linked fresh and saline gens, such as cholera bacteria, depleted. The biological break- groundwater flows, to study the cryptosporidium protozoan para- down of the added organic matter important geochemical and geo- sites, and hepatitis virus. Treated will reduce the dissolved-oxygen microbiological processes that may sewage effluent is generally disin- content of the water, which may enhance cave development and fected with chlorine, so that the fecal asphyxiate the higher-order animal prove to be the base of the food- bacteria and some other pathogens species such as fish. chain in the cave ecosystem, and to are killed. So although a fecal Nutrient loading is also extreme- study the cave geomorphology so coliform test result of 50 or more ly detrimental to coral-reef environ- that we may understand when and colonies per 100 milliliters of water ments. All effluent pumped into the how the cave systems formed. We

50 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

damaging the underground envi- ronment, and ultimately be dis- charged onto the coastal barrier reef, where it may induce detrimen- tal algal blooms. I question the sustainability of sewage- disposal practices, particularly in light of the expected increase in sewage production due to contin- ued tourism development along the coast. Alternative sewage-disposal practices must be implemented on a large scale to prevent degradation of this water resource and avoid impacts on human health. One po- tential for large resorts and urban centers is the additional pro- cessing of sewage-treatment-plant Survival time in groundwater at 10±1°C of nine species of micro- effluent through created wetlands, organisms that may affect human health (Kaddu-Malindwa et thus eliminating the use of disposal wells. al., 1983). Significant numbers survive beyond 100 days. have established a monitoring net- Solidaridad, and it is also used as a We wish to thank the numerous work to collect data on groundwater sink to dispose of the region’s sew- dedicated individuals in Quintana levels, flow velocities, salinity, and age effluent. This paper has dis- Roo and the United Kingdom who temperature. We have collected cussed how the various sewage-dis- have generously provided their groundwater samples for chemical posal practices in Solidaridad may time, energy, and resources to the and microbiological analysis and negatively impact the quality of the University of Bristol’s research ef- made extensive visual observations thin fresh-water layer both from forts. Financial and logistical assis- of the shape and distribution of above when treated and untreated tance from the following groups is cave passages. Of particular inter- sewage infiltrates to the water table also gratefully acknowledged: est has been the successful sampling and from below when sewage-treat- Aanderaa Instruments, Akumal of three sites in the saline-water ment-plant effluent is pumped into Dive Shop, British Cave Research zone below 60 meters depth with the underlying saline water. All ef- Association, British Sedimentologi- the vital assistance of local cave fluent introduced to the aquifer will cal Association, Centro Ecológico divers and dive shops. Through this circulate with the groundwater, Akumal, Grupo Exploración Ox Bel ongoing research effort, with antici- pated completion by 2003, we hope to advance our scientific under- standing of this karst groundwa- ter system and thereby help local agencies and governments de- velop sustainable water-resource- management practices for this valuable sole-source aquifer, on which the region’s health and eco- nomic development depends. The karst groundwater system of the Caribbean Yucatan coast is valu- able in many ways. It hosts a unique endemic ecology, it is wide- ly used for recreational water activi- ties, it is the sole source of potable water for the Municipalidad de

Current meter being removed from the south branch of Xel Ha Caleta by Patricia Beddows and Marike Jasper. Edward Mallon.

51 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Ha, Hidden Worlds Dive Shop, Reserva de la Biosfera de Sian Ka’an, Quintana Roo Speleological Survey. Municipalidad de Solidaridad, R. S. Quintana Roo, México. 2:1-20. www.caves.org/project/qrss/ Aqua, Royal Geographical Society, Kaddu-Mulindwa, D., Z. Filip, and qrss.htm (last update March 15, Royal Society, Southampton Ocean- G. Milde. 1983. Survival of some 2002). Author Jim Coke, chac@ ographic Centre, University of pathogenic and potential patho- lcc.net. Bristol, and Xel Ha Park. genic bacteria in groundwater. In Whitaker, F. F. and P. L. Smart. 1993. Ground Water in Water Resources Circulation of saline ground water References Planning. International Associa- in carbonate platforms—A re- tion of Hydrological Sciences view and case study from the Beddows, P.A. 1999. Conduit hydro- Publication 42 (UNESCO Koblenz Bahamas. In A. D. Horbury & A. geology of a tropical coastal carbon- Symposium) pp. 1137-1145. G. Robinson (Eds.), Diagenesis and ate aquifer: Caribbean coast of the Paul, J. H., J. B. Rose, S. C. Jiang, X. Basin Development. American As- Yucatan Peninsula. McMaster Uni- T. Zhou, P. Cochran, C. Kellogg, sociation of Petroleum Geology. versity. (M.Sc. Thesis) 162 p. J. B. Kang, D. Griffin, S. Farrah, pp. 113-132. Escobar-Briones, E., M. E. Camacho, and J. Lukasik 1997. Evidence for Yager, J. and M. E. Madden. 2002. and J. Alcocer. 1997. Calliasmata groundwater and surface marine Preliminary analysis of the ecol- nohochi, new species (Decapoda: water contamination by waste ogy of a cenote in Quintana Roo, Caridea: Hippolytidae), from disposal wells in the Florida Mexico, characterized by its ex- anchialine cave systems in conti- Keys. Water Research, 31(6):1448- traordinary quantities of Remi- nental Quintana Roo, Mexico. 1454. pedes. In J. B. Martin, C. M. Journal of Crustacean Biology Pohlman, J. W., T. M. Iliffe, and L.A. Wicks, and I. D. Sasowsky (Eds.) 17(4):733-744. Cifuentes. 1997. A stable isotope Hydrogeology and Biology of Post- Iliffe, T. M. 1992. An annotated list study of organic cycling and the Paleozoic Carbonate Aquifers. Karst of the troglobitic anchialine and ecology of an anchialine cave eco- Waters Institute Special Publication freshwater fauna of Quintana system. Marine Ecology Progress 7 (Karst Frontiers Symposium, Roo. Diversidad Biológica en la Series 155:17-27. March 6-10, 2002). pp. 138-140.

¿A Donde van las Aguas Residuales? Patricia Beddows tends to instruments in a cave (frame from a digital video). El Municipio de Solidaridad, localizado en la costa Andreas Kuecha. Caribe de la Península de Yucatán, México, es completamente dependiente del lente subterraneo de agua dulce y potable que flota encima de agua densa salina en este acuífero cárstico estratificado. El acuífero se usa simultáneamente para actividades recreativas acuáticas por la población local y los turístas, y también se depositan aguas residuales. Los escasos conocimientos sobre los mechanismos y carácter de la circulación de las aguas subterráneas, cuestionan la sostenibilidad del uso multiple de este acuifero. Actualmente, se emplea una variedad de métodos de dispo- sición de agua residual, los cuales pueden afectar en varias formas la calidad del agua subterránea. Se recomienda que se implementen estrategias alternativas de tratamiento del agua residual para proteger la calidad de los recursos hidráulicos, en vista del desarrollo fenomenal del turismo de esta zona.

52 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

2001 INNERSPACE ODYSSEY EXPEDITION

Bev Shade and Bill Stone with contributions by Jason Mallinson and Rick Stanton

uring the winter and spring of Iglesia with the San Agustín River known as the Sala Doble, contained D2001, the U.S. Deep Caving beyond the San Agustín sump at a high dome with a waterfall pour- Team fielded a three-and-a-half- a depth of 1450 meters, forming ing in. The chamber is at a depth of month expedition to Sistema the long-sought main drain for 474 meters beneath the entrance Huautla and Sistema Cheve in Huautla. [See AMCS Activities and measures 250 meters long by Oaxaca and Sistema Purificación in Newsletter 21.] The water entering 30 meters wide. Entry into the Tamaulipas. The effort was aimed lower San Agustín arches out from chamber is by way of a spectacular at identifying potential avenues for a 6-by-6-meter borehole in the form 115-meter freefall shaft known as breakthroughs in these three caves, of a 12-meter waterfall. The trick, the Sima Larga. The Sala Doble is where no changes in depth had now, was to find a way into that at the same elevation inside the taken place in eight or more years. tunnel other than diving 655 meters mountain as the Río Iglesia where Twenty participants from five coun- through the San Agustín sump. it disappears below the Penthouse. tries were involved in the project. Many previous teams, including Just 100 meters separate the two Huautla Project expeditions in 1978 rooms underground. Our plan was t the beginning of Phase 1, and 1980, had scoured Río Iglesia to set an underground camp in the APage Ashwell, Bev Shade, José pretty hard. But we thought it was Sala Doble and use hammer drills Soriano, Bill Stone, Gustavo Vela, at least worth another look. to scale the big dome at the far end and Andy Zellner arrived in the vil- Another option in the pursuit of of the chamber. We hoped it would lage of San Agustín Zaragoza on the the Río Iglesia was Cueva de San lead up over a drainage divide to Huautla Plateau in Oaxaca on Janu- Agustín. Cueva de San Agustín is a passage that might go south, cross ary 21, 2001. We rented two houses fossil river cave located less than under the Sótano del Río Iglesia, in the village for kitchen and sleep- 200 meters from our mess hall, on and connect with the active river. ing space and started unpacking. the mountain knoll behind the vil- There are nineteen vertical The next day, Mark Crapelle ar- lage. We had noticed on the 1969 pitches to the bottom of Cueva de rived; he had been vacationing on Canadian map that the final room, San Agustín. By January 26 they had the east coast before heading up into the mountains to join us. The next four weeks were spent rechecking previously explored caves trying to find a continuation of the Río Iglesia, which sinks in the Penthouse chamber of Sótano del Río Iglesia at –280 meters. The mo- tivation for this was the 1994 dis- covery of an underground junction of what is presumably the Río

Phase 1 team: Bill Stone, Bev Shade, Gusa Vela, Andy Zell- ner, Page Ashwell, Jose Anto- nio Soriano, Jason Mallinson, and Mark Crapelle. Bill Stone.

53 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

staying dry. The infeeder to the passage junction. In this way, canyon gained another 50 we were able to recover virtually all meters of elevation in a se- of the gear we used in the bolt ries of shorter pitches led by climbs. The cave was derigged on Crapelle and Soriano, pass- February 8 and 9. ing through several spec- Meanwhile, during the second tacular collections of helic- camp at the bottom of the Cueva de tites. Unfortunately, the San Agustín, Ashwell, Vela, and photo strobes chose this Zellner rigged Sótano del Río time not to work, so we were Iglesia down to the –280-meter level not able to take any pic- and set a three-day camp in the tures of what are surely huge Penthouse, a roughly circular some of the best formations room measuring 130 meters in di- in Huautla. At an elevation ameter. There the cave splits. The of 140 meters above our un- water sinks into breakdown, while derground camp the new the main downstream tunnel, lead- route connected back into ing to the deepest portion of the Cueva de San Agustín at a cave at –535 meters, has been short branch off the main blocked by debris since sometime tunnel previously thought shortly after its discovery in 1967. to have no outlet. We added This debris was washed in during 566 meters to the length of the summer rainy seasons. Because the cave. The new passage no one had seen this section of the Hiking to work, Bev Shade passes has several climbing leads cave since the late 1960s, we hoped that we did not have time to to find some climbing leads that through the curtain in the check. The largest dome can had been overlooked. Jason Mallin- center of the Sala Double, Cueva San be reached rather quickly by son had arrived from England, and Agustín. Bill Stone. taking the only left-hand after several days of sorting dive tunnel off the main route to gear, he joined them in the cave been rigged with some 600 meters the Sima Larga. Neither did of PMI rope, and the first under- we have time to pursue the Eight flashes illuminate the Sima ground camp had been established. source of the waterfall in the Grande, the spectacular 115-meter During the next six days, Crapelle, dome we climbed out of the shaft at the bottom of Cueva San Shade, Soriano, and Stone took Sala Doble. It enters via a Agustín. Bev Shade fired the flash turns leading the climb up the wa- steep flowstone slope just terfall, while Ashwell, Vela, and above roof level of the Sala every 14 meters during her ascent. Zellner pushed other climbing Doble, while the more obvi- Bill Stone. leads around the Sala Doble. ous route we followed to the At the conclusion of our first connection did not carry climbing effort, we had scaled 90 water. meters and were looking across the It is worth mentioning top of the shaft into an infeeder can- that there are three down- yon leading south toward Río trending holes taking water Iglesia. Getting into this canyon re- in the Sala Doble, all along quired more rope and drill batter- the north wall. Unfortu- ies, so we returned to the surface. nately, all end in very com- Three days later Crapelle, Shade, pacted breakdown. The wa- Soriano, and Stone returned for a ter filters down the wall in second five-day push. A day after a series of impassably small our arrival in the underground crevices. Clearly that water camp, a storm upstairs dumped goes down and connects some 15 centimeters of water, and with Río Iglesia somewhere the 90-meter waterfall emptying under the Penthouse. into the Sala Doble quintupled in After connecting our volume, filling the chamber with a climbing route to the main fine mist. The waterfall on the route passage, we broke camp and to our lead also noticeably in- derigged. Since our new dis- creased in flow, which meant that covery connected to the everyone got wet between camp main route, our four-person and the new lead. One of the real team split into two groups, luxuries of the first camp had been each derigging one way up

54 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Crossing the Río Santo Do- mingo at dusk. The cliffs in the distance rise 500 meters above the river. Bill Stone. camp. They dug open the blockage to the deeper sections of the cave and came to the lip of a shaft lead- ing down, probably Taffy’s Terror on the old Canadian map. Excited by their success in reopening this section of cave, they left the cave to fetch more rope and rigging hard- ware. Their arrival on the surface coincided with the beginning of the three days of heavy rain that cre- ated the spectacular waterfall in the Sala Doble. When the team returned to Sótano del Río Iglesia, the dug crawlway was flooded shut again. Following the derig of the Cueva de San Agustín, we were joined by Marcin Gala and Kasia Biernaka from . Most of the team then returned to the Penthouse on a single-day recon. Although the in Río Iglesia was deferred due to the Santo Domingo Canyon and lies downstream crawlway remained the arrival of the Phase 2 team on immediately above the springs that impassable, Ashwell discovered a February 18, when Zellner and drain Sistema Cheve. It is connected new canyon tunnel entering the Ashwell returned home to the in several places to the active spring Penthouse from the south and car- United States. tunnel. While the canyon and cave rying a substantial flow of water are both hot and muggy, the water from the recent rains. Several or Phase 2, we were joined by coming out of the Cheve is beauti- weeks later, Shade and Stone re- Fnew team members Rick Stan- fully cold (16°C) and clear. turned to this canyon with climb- ton, Greg Horne, and Charles Brickey. Cueva de la Mano had been ex- ing gear and scaled three waterfall The primary focus of this part of the plored extensively by several pre- shafts, mapping 184 meters of pas- expedition was the fossil resur- vious expeditions between 1989 sage in the process. It still contin- gence cave known as Cueva de la and 1995, and we knew progress ues to the southeast. Further work Mano. This dry cave is located in would be difficult. The general con- sensus was that the dry cave was finished, but in 1997 our team had explored a sump at the end of the cave that continued beyond the range of the limited diving equip- ment on hand. Those dives had been made by Jason Mallinson and Rick Stanton, who were both inter- ested in a second attempt with more sophisticated equipment. Further- more, discussions with Nancy Pistole, Matt Oliphant, and Peter Bosted revealed the existence of several climbing leads near the southern end of the dry passage.

Bev Shade during the derig of Cueva San Agustín. Thirty pieces of rope were tied end to end for hauling up the drops. Bill Stone.

55 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

On February 21 we hired sixteen sump and into dry chambers be- base before running out of leads. burros and guides from the small yond, they could survey back to- Just beyond where Mallinson had village of San Simon, on the north- ward the known dry cave and look stopped in 1997, the tunnel began ern edge of the Santo Domingo Can- for leads that bypassed the sump. branching into ever-lower bedding- yon where a new road had just been During our first several days, the plane openings. Ultimately, all of completed from Mazatán, and entire team transported diving gear, these were pushed to a point where transported equipment to establish including new carbon-epoxy tanks it was physically impossible to dive a six-week basecamp near the en- containing helium-oxygen and sev- any farther, even by crawling un- trance to Mano. Since Mallinson eral compact rebreathers, to the derwater. On his last dive, Mallin- had stopped in 1997 only due to a southernmost sump. Mallinson and son took a hammer with him. After shortage of air in a tunnel measur- Stanton then began a series of six- removing his rebreather and bail- ing 8 meters high by 5 meters wide teen solo dives, on alternate days out tanks he bashed on the frac- at a water depth of 30 meters, the except those required for gear re- tured bedding-plane roof until he diving effort merited first priority. pair. They reached a maximum pen- was able to move forward a few If a team of divers got through the etration of 458 meters from dive meters, pushing both bailout bottles

56 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 ahead of him, until the bedding plane lowered again. Hopefully, this is not the only connection from the resurgence area to Cheve and Charco. While Mallinson and Stanton pushed dive leads, the rest of the crew looked for dry leads, pushed climbing leads, and went ridge- walking. By wading around the head of the southern sump, we could reach a small crawlway that led to the southernmost dry pas- sages. This crawl leads to a decent- sized room, but all the passages beyond this room are fairly small and unpleasant. Horne and Shade visited this section to look at poten- tial climbing leads that Nancy Pistole had kindly marked on old survey notes. They did not find some of them, found several that were not marked, and were non- plussed, finally settling on a differ- ent lead entirely. This area backs up during high water, so the walls are coated with damp brown mud. However, we felt that we could see a bit of white limestone high in the room and estimated the dome to be at least 20 or 30 meters high. We pushed this lead for a month. Shade and Stone led the first series of pitches up the big shaft to a com- plex intersection at a point 40 ended where large boulders wedged humid and stagnant. During our meters vertically above the sump. into fractures in the ceiling blocked month-long stay at Mano base- Close to the floor, the wall was lay- farther progress. Apparently we camp, we were visited several times ered mud and soft flowstone. This had climbed up into a fracture zone, by villagers from the small town of hard-to-protect combination gave perhaps beneath the base of an Santa Ana Cuatemoc, on the south way to sharp, horizontal marble enormous room. Although air side of the canyon. They made these fins. Forty meters up, we were re- flowed up into several of the ceil- trips despite a four-hour trek on lieved to reach a big ledge with sev- ing leads, none of them could be horseback through stiflingly hot eral horizontal leads. One passage pursued safely, at least not from jungle. Although we had obtained went through a very well decorated below while on rope. This break- official permission, these parties section named the Rat Palace. Most down appears to be both vertically were nonetheless armed, usually of the passages at or above this and horizontally extensive. with rifles and shotguns, and con- ledge were well decorated with One mystery of Cueva de laMano frontational at first. We laid out the both calcite and aragonite forma- was resolved this year. The en- map we had been working on and tions. In all, 436 meters of new hori- trance, located about 20 meters offered tours of the cave. Ulti- zontal tunnels were mapped in this above the active spring, usually has mately, two groups entered the area, including a spectacularly a strong wind blowing either in or cave, the second one taking a four- beautiful gallery completely lined out, suggesting the presence of a hour trip with us to the sump. with pristine dogtooth spar. large cave system with a higher en- Suspicion waned as their under- Gala, Biernaka, and Soriano now trance. However, the air is not standing improved. Soon, they in- joined the climbing teams in this strong enough or cold enough to formed us that some 140 meters area. A total of eight pitches were signal a direct connection with vertically up the mountain toward scaled in different directions from Cueva Cheve. Furthermore, beyond Santa Ana, one of their hunting the junction ledge. The highest a large junction located 300 meters dogs had come across a shaft lead- point was reached four pitches from the entrance, the wind dies, ing down into the canyon wall. above the ledge, 99 meters vertically and the remaining 925 meters of Rapid negotiations followed. They above the sump. All of these climbs travel to the southern sump are guided us to the pit, which our

57 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Diving in Cueva de la Mano

These reports on diving in Cueva January 15. Mallinson pushed on rebreathers. Thus all dives in this de la Mano appeared, in somewhat from the previous limit, this time with sump were done using the homemade different form, in the Cave Diving streamlined BC and stage bottle. It rebreathers in various modes of Group [Great Britain] Newsletter, was awkward squeezing through the closed, semi-closed, and something in numbers 124 (July 1997) and 142 rift with wings. The large tunnel con- between, depending on whether an (January 2002). The telegraphic tinued, and 115 meters of line was laid oxygen sensor was being used or not. style, only slightly ameliorated by at an average depth of 30 meters to a Stanton then followed the up- editing, is traditional in that jour- narrow canyon. Mallinson tried to stream tunnel to the shaft upward at nal. surface from –23 meters in the canyon, approximately 330 meters into the but falling silt and debris caused a silt- sump that was Mallinson’s limit in January 11, 1997. The static ter- out and the roof pinched out at –7 1997, when he had surfaced at the minal sump was dived by Stanton meters. This is probably a dead end, shaft in on off-route airbell. Stanton with two 4-liter cylinders. Twenty- and the main tunnel has been missed, then found the main continuation of seven meters of line was laid, to which would be easy due to the width the tunnel, a short section of passage surface in the full flow of the Cueva of the tunnel preceding this section. to a deep-looking shaft that was not Cheve river. A large fossil passage Mallinson surveyed back to the pre- descended. was also evident. Thinking we had vious limit and returned to the entry February 22. Stanton and Mallin- hit the big time, Stanton returned point at the rift. son ascended the second shaft to a for Mallinson, who, not having a The large passage heading north, small airbell at the top. This was , borrowed Stanton’s jacket, downstream, was lined. This as- clearly off route, so the divers made leaving Stanton to dive through in cended for 50 meters up a boulder plans that Mallinson would continue his long johns. On the far side, the ramp to a chamber at –10 meters with into the new deep shaft while Stanton water welled up from another a possible air bell above. Surfacing tidied up the line in the shaft area. sump. The large, rising tube led was not possible due to the amount This done, Stanton returned to the back to a blockage and onward to of deco required. This point may be new main tunnel and laid some more another sump. It was clear that it on the far side of boulders noted in line from Mallinson’s limit up to a had been visited before, probably the initial part of the sump where the depth of 16 meters. via a bypass to the sump. While current is evident. returned, February 23. Mallinson continued Mallinson investigated this, Stanton surveying, to the rift and spent his from the limit at –16 meters to a large continued the dive. The smaller, deco time doing underwater aerobics boulder choke that blocked the pas- continuing sump reverted back to to keep warm. sage. A small hole up through boul- a larger passage, then choked. A ders was seen but not attempted. A small tube bypassed this and was February 20, 2001. Carry team of side passage was noted and partially followed to –16 meters. This con- eight sherpas took all dive equipment explored. It emits strong current. tained only some of the flow, so the to the 1-kilometer sump, ready for Stanton dived to the end of the line, line was wound back to a belay and Mallinson and Stanton the next day. surveying all the new passage. The time was spent looking for other February 21. Mallinson dived first end fans out to a choke of boulders alternatives. on a chest-mounted homemade re- with no apparent way through, but January 13. Mallinson proceeded breather with open-circuit side- most of the current is coming through past Stanton’s limit down a descend- mounts as bailout. The sump line was small passages below this level. One ing tube requiring side-mounts to repaired as far as the junction with the small passage was spotted, but it was –23 meters, where it entered a low, deep tunnel. The sump was then fol- a committing squeeze that was left for hading rift. Seeing dark spaces lowed to Mallinson’s 1997 downstream another dive, when the disturbed silt lower, he belayed the line and swam limit beneath an aven. Meanwhile had settled. Dive time 90 minutes. down through a rift until it broke Stanton had dived with his home- February 25. Mallinson swam to out into the side of a large tunnel at made rebreather to the boulder choke the present end and removed his –26 meters, heading north and above this aven. Here Mallinson’s rebreather to pass a small hole in the south. The diver swam south, in a bubbles were seen to emerge from a boulder choke. The hole had to be tunnel 15 to 20 meters wide and small hole beneath the diver. Eventu- hammered to remove an obstruction. more than 5 meters high, until he ally Mallinson managed to squeeze Beyond the hole, inside the choke, a reached –33 meters. Here not hav- through, minus rebreather, and make passage went for 10 meters to a dead ing a compensator was the physical connection. This connec- end. Various holes were looked at, but causing difficulties, so he surveyed tion was obviously not large enough no way on was found. It is very silty back. The passage continues big. to use the back-mounted Cis-Lunar inside the choke, indicating little cur-

58 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

rent. Back on the correct side of the hole, he donned the rebreather, and other side passages were looked for. A possible shaft upward was noted on the return, but the rebreather then flooded, requiring the diver to use his open-circuit side-mounted bail- out tanks. Dive time 2 hours. Stanton surveyed all the un- charted passage. February 27. Mallinson ascended the possible shaft noted on the pre- vious dive to an airbell that is a dead end. A further upward passage in the deeper section was ascended, but this pinched out after 10 meters in a silt-out. A side passage was noted farther towards the terminal boulder choke. This was left for a later dive due to the decompression require- ments already accumulated. March 1. This dive was aborted 200 meters into the sump when Mallinson realized the Sofnolime in the rebreather was spent and unus- able. Open-circuit bailout was used to regain the surface. March 3. Stanton attempted to push the lead found on . Technical difficulties with his re- breather curtailed the dive. March 4. After removing his rebreather, Mallinson followed a small tunnel emitting a strong cur- rent for 20 meters along a low pas- sage with fallen (and falling) slabs teammate Soriano ultimately named parallel to Cueva de la Mano, but to an obstruction caused by a larger Mina de Salchichas, the Hot Dog survey stations were found in this slab. The passage could be seen to Mine. passage. Fortunately a recoverable continue beyond, so an attempt at Salchichas was full of surprises, station was found near the junction moving the slabs was made. After 10 including extensive archaeological of the Mina de Salchichas and the minutes digging, the diver had to remains and stepped terraces along main passage, so that our survey return to the rebreather and then to the tunnel wall that almost certainly was easy to connect to the old sur- base. Dive time 2.5 hours. host sites, probably dating vey data. We were grateful for the March 5. The slabs at the end back 1500 years. The extensive con- careful work of previous expedi- point were again attacked by Mallin- struction and large artifacts are even tions to mark survey points. This son, and after a further 15 minutes more impressive considering that it passage joins the rest of the cave at excavation, a way through was has a pit entrance with several the main junction in Mano where made. The tunnel enlarged slightly, drops. The second drop ends in the air disappears. So the mystery but after 5 meters more, the current waist-deep bat guano and, of course, of the airflow had been solved: the could be seen coming from a very thousands of bats. The guano slope high entrance at Mina de Salchichas tight spot. This was the last dive in trailed off for nearly a hundred provides a driving force for the this cave for this expedition. meters into a heavily decorated wind due to its significantly —Rick Stanton and Jason Mallinson Carlsbad-like chamber and contin- higher elevation. It is also the main ued below to a borehole measuring entrance for the significant bat 8 meters in diameter. Initially, we population in the cave, easily sev- hoped that this might be a tunnel eral thousand. It is worth a note of

59 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

60

AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 warning that two members of the Noel Sloan had reached 769 expedition, Gala and Horne, subse- meters penetration at 55 quently contracted histoplasmosis, meters depth in the Huautla with Gala spending two weeks in Resurgence, with the tunnel the hospital following his return to headed downward. Rick Poland. Both had visited the I Stanton and Jason Mallinson Guano Go tunnel that leads to the managed to re-line the first southeastern-most sections of 769 meters; rainy-season Mano, which is far from the Mina flows in the intervening de Salchichas entrance. six years had shredded the The 2001 expedition mapped 942 original guide line. They meters of new tunnels in Cueva de extended exploration an la Mano, bringing the total length additional 290 meters to to 10,841 meters and increasing the where, on March 9, Mallin- depth significantly, to 179 meters. son surfaced in an airbell at The route onward toward Cueva a penetration distance from Cheve, however, remains elusive. the entrance of 1059 meters. With Mano finished, pending a This location is approxi- breakthrough to the other side of mately 100 meters inside the whatever geologic feature is block- east wall of the Peña Colo- ing current exploration, we turned rada canyon. The airbell is our attention to the Huautla Resur- 15 meters in diameter and is gence. Due to the unusual geology connected to another airbell of the Sierra Mazateca and the Si- of equal size by a swim- erra Juárez, it turns out that the through fissure with air springs for the two vast, deep sys- overhead. An 8-meter-wide, Jason Mallinson tops off a pair of tems in these two mountains, re- 5-meter-high air-filled tun- tanks for a dive in the southern sumps spectively Huautla to the north and nel with could in Cueva del Mano. Bill Stone. Cheve to the south, are both in the be seen leading off from the same canyon. From Mano base- roof of the first airbell. Unfortu- USDCT. The discovery of an air- camp it was only a kilometer and a nately, there was no beach, and the filled tunnel beyond the Huautla half downstream to the Huautla only way out of the water will be resurgence marks an important springs, or about an hour’s strong via a 10-meter aid climb. breakthrough in the exploration of hiking with dive kit, including a The maximum water depth reach- Sistema Huautla. It now remains for good deal of river traversing in ed during these four dives was 65 a dedicated expedition, or several, chest-to-neck-deep water. We began meters, at a point almost directly with waterproof bolting equip- staging MK5 rebreathers and carbon- beneath the floor of the Peña Colo- ment and a much larger cave-diver epoxy SCI tanks down there at the rada canyon. Approximately 1200 complement to link the Huautla end of the first week of March. meters north of this point is the Resurgence to the Cueva de la Peña On an earlier expedition in May Cueva de la Peña Colorada, an ex- Colorada and extend exploration of 1995, Jill and Paul Heinerth and tensive cave explored in 1984 by the from there to the Sistema Huautla, 9 kilometers to the north. The remainder of the month of March was spent on long reconnais- sance hikes based out of the village of Santa Ana Cuatemoc. Two of the visitors to our basecamp in the can- yon lived in this town and offered to host us for exploration work in the middle karst zone between Sistema Cheve and its resurgence. Phase 2 team: Greg Horne, Elizabeth Gutierrez, Jason Mallinson, Jose Antonio Soriano, Bev Shade, Bill Stone, Rick Stanton. Not shown are Charles Brickey, Mark Crapelle, Marcin Gala, and Kasia Biernacka. Bill Stone. 63 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Diving the Huautla Resurgence These reports on diving in the continued large. Silt and gravel around the shaft during decom- Huautla Resurgence appeared, in banks showed high-flow current pression stops every 3 meters somewhat different form, in the patterns, indicating this was the tended to dislodge fine silt from [Great Britain] main way forward. Before the above, so these were kept to a mini- Newsletter, number 142 (January diver returned to base, 100 meters mum, although a route upwards 2002). The telegraphic style, only of line was laid beyond the old was found. slightly ameliorated by editing, is limit. On the return, an hour of After completing the final stop traditional in that journal. decompression was required be- at 3 meters, Mallinson surfaced fore the airbell between Sumps 1 into a large airbell with mud- March 6, 2001. It was expected and 2, due to the need to surface covered slopes and vertical walls. that most of the line installed in momentarily there. Dive time for Swimming around the edges of the 1995 would have been washed out the 1-kilometer penetration was airbell showed there was no easy and shredded by the current, so 3.5 hours. exit from the water, and in fact this dive by Stanton was to repair March 8. Stanton continued on finding somewhere to tie off the and replace it far as far as could from Mallinson’s limit. The pas- line was difficult. A narrow rift on be reached. Following the trail of sage remained at 52 meters depth. the surface led through to another old line remnants eased what The visibility was such that it was large airbell, but this was domed, would have been complicated hard to maintain contact with with no possible above-water exit. route-finding. Sump 2 had multi- both walls of the large tunnel. Back in the first airbell, a hole in level passages in a maze-like con- After about 150 meters of prog- the roof could be seen leading into figuration, and all the tubes here ress, the depth had increased to what looked like a further fossil are clean-washed with sharp ero- 65 meters at a marked elbow in chamber with two large stalactites sion features. Beyond, the passage the passage, beyond which it rose hanging from the roof. Unfortu- did not fit the description, and the steeply over walls of large boul- nately no safe exit from the water second air chamber with the 1- ders to a chamber with a floor at was possible without backup from meter cascade could not be found. 30 meters depth. A full circum- another diver. Losing a mask, fin, This may have been due to higher navigation of the walls was or cylinder into the 30-meter-deep water levels. The passage changed completed, only to return to the pool would be disastrous. nature to a 6-meter-diameter starting point with no obvious Forty-five minutes after surfac- phreatic tube with whalebacks of continuation having been found. ing, Mallinson descended to the silt on the floor. The diver turned As it was clear that this was still base of the shaft and headed back back to base when all the line car- the main flow, the only way on to the elbow at –65 meters, look- ried had been laid. The swim out had to be vertically upwards, so ing for alternate routes. This was from approximately 600 meters an ascent was made to a depth of continued back along the deep tun- from the entrance was much faster 16 meters along one wall of the nel, but nothing obvious was than the inward time due to the vast chamber. At this point it was found. Visibility at this time was strong current. Dive time 2.5 felt that a second diver, arriving not good for route-finding, so hours. here in a much shorter time, things could have been missed. March 7. Mallinson continued would be able to achieve more Mallinson eventually decided to relining the known passage from due to less decompression obli- head for home, and after 1 hour 40 Stanton’s limit of the day before, gation, so a return to base was minutes of decompression, the last using a Cis-Lunar MK5 rebreather made. Dive time 4.5 hours. dive out through Sump 1 could be and two side-mount tanks. The March 9. The objective of Mal- started. The total dive time for this route finding was easy due to linson’s dive was to progress to penetration was 5 hours. The co- remnants of the old line, which the limit of Stanton’s line at –16 pious amounts of mud and silt in needed repair in places. The end meters as quickly as possible to the shaft above –16 meters at the of the old line was reached at 900 minimize the decompression re- end leads Mallinson to assume that meters and 40 meters depth. Here quired to surface at this point. this is off the main route and a con- a gravel ramp led down to –60 Mallinson reached the end of the tinuing passage has been missed meters, and from the base of this line after 45 minutes, and at this somewhere. a large passage rose up to –50 point the computer showed 45 —Jason Mallinson and Rick Stanton meters, where it leveled off and minutes of decompression. Forays

64 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

From this new base, we were guided to this flow of internal drain- to three new caves. Osto de Cerro age from the Sierra Juárez. Voludo #1 contained a spectacular Both of these caves have freefall 100-meter entrance shaft. It been dye-traced to the Cheve ultimately reached a total depth of resurgence. But the flows 106 meters and a length of 212 observed at the deepest meters before being plugged with points of exploration in dirt fill. these two caves do not ac- Several kilometers farther north, count for even a quarter of in the depths of the Barranca Estre- the flow seen at the resur- lla, Star Canyon, we were guided to gence. Somewhere, some- Cueva de la Barranca Estrella, a fos- thing significant makes up sil river sink, now dry, which we the missing flow. While un- explored to a depth of 73 meters dertaking our long-range and length of 511 meters. Almost hikes to Cerro Voludo, we the entire cave is composed of large daily crossed a substantial passages, indicating that it was once river issuing from the head the path of a significant river, but of Durazno Canyon into in many places this large passage Star Canyon. Local Cuicatec contains a lot of dry surface dirt and residents in this area told us debris, which shows that it has been that the majority of the Country still making aguardiente caña inactive for a long time. In several flow originates from large places this fill makes the cave un- springs a short distance up from cane sugar. Bill Stone. pleasantly small. The end of the the canyon. At the time, we cave is plugged by debris and has thought nothing of this. However, bleached-white, dry arroyo with poor airflow. After several days of as we approached Cueva de la Bar- rounded cobbles. The entire river exploration, we noticed a decline in ranca Estrella it was apparent that had disappeared over a distance of air quality just from our presence. the substantial river had disap- 3 or 4 meters. Shade and Brickey Local hunters have filled the en- peared, because the arroyo we were swam into the plunge-pool lake, but trance with logs to keep their in was completely dry. After three could only find narrow fissures from escaping into the cave. days of exploration at Barranca where the river sank. Although During our retreat from this Estrella, we decided to bushwhack there is no humanly passable en- gorge we resolved a long-standing back up the gorge to find out why. trance, it is clear that this river ac- question about Sistema Cheve. The On the way, we discovered an counts for a significant portion of resurgence spring that boils up be- amazing karst feature. The river the flow that boils up at the Mano low the entrance to Cueva del Mano flowing from Durazno canyon resurgence. flows an enormous amount of cold, plummets over a 5-meter waterfall Our final piece of work in this clear water, as mentioned previ- into a boiling plunge pool and sinks area was the exploration of Sótano ously. Only two cave systems, immediately. The upstream side of de Rolando Krassel, located at the Sistema Cheve and Cueva Charco, the waterfall is luxuriant, verdant bottom of a giant doline in the are currently known to contribute jungle; the downstream side is a middle of a lush sugar-cane plan- tation. This is a blind pit of 48 meters depth and 61 meters length. There are no other significant karst features on the property, but Krassel’s plantation does harbor a remarkable still. Rolando’s father was a German engineer, and his handiwork was evident in the mostly stainless-steel construction of the continuous-feed still. It uses steam, temperature control, and pre-heaters to finely tune the out- put, which appears as a roughly 100-proof rum at the end of the Brobdingnagian contraption. It is probably the only aguardiente in the Imar Playas on the Main Traverse 400 meters inside Cueva del Mano. Bill Stone.

65 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

flow out the entrance, which is roughly 50 meters higher than the sump levels while we were there. Even if a given year’s high water level does not reach the entrance, there is still a huge difference be- tween the high and low water lev- els. For this reason, we planned to visit the cave at the driest time of the year. The entire team spent one day moving all the diving and camp gear up the arroyo to the cave en- trance, where the loads were moved efficiently up the 40-meter entrance drop on a 100-meter-long tyrolean line. The next day most of the group continued to move gear farther into the cave, where an underground camp was set just 100 meters from the sumps. The dive team was well equipped, with two MK5 rebreathers, nine large-capacity carbon-fiber tanks charged with 86/14, HID underwater lights, and a kilo- meter of dive line. Learning from the 1993 visit, when divers used and found the water bit- ingly cold, we used argon-inflated drysuits and wore heavy pile un- dergarments. The dive team was made up of Mulholland, Warke, Brown, and Stone. sierra that is safe to drink. He also New Mexico, and Yvonne Droms While all this staging was going grows very good coffee. and Joe Meppelink arrived from on, Minton and Shade hiked up the At the end of March, the expedi- Texas, bringing the team to ten. steep arroyo directly west of the tion packed up houses that had From our caravan of five entrance. They gained about 250 been rented since January in the vil- four-wheel-drive vehicles pro- meters of elevation from the canyon lage of San Agustín Zaragoza, ceeded four hours up into the Si- floor, and went a short distance loaded equipment, and began the erra Madre Oriental range to the both north and south at this eleva- two-day drive north to the coastal west before setting camp at the edge tion, but got stopped by cliffs. They lowlands town of Ciudad Victoria of the Infiernillo Canyon. found one shallow shelter cave and in the state of Tamaulipas. The only Our objective was to revisit the some cascades of tufa or old flow- remaining team members by now Infiernillo Sumps, last investigated stone on cliff faces above us. At the were Shade, Soriano, and Stone. in 1993 and left with two going un- end of the day, the non-divers met Along the way we had the unusual derwater leads. These sumps are the back at the vehicles and drove opportunity to see guerilla-leader lowest part of Sistema Purificación, higher up the mountain, past the Subcomandante Marcos’s convoy 953 meters deep and 93.8 kilome- small town of Revilla. returning from Mexico City to ters long. The cave has seven mapped About fifteen years ago, William Chiapas following his historic entrances, of which Infiernillo is the Russell and Mark Minton discov- meeting with Presidente Vicente lowest and closest to the sumps. ered a shaft on the ridge south of Fox. Our hope was to dive through one Revilla, almost 1500 meters above of these sumps and surface to the the Infiernillo entrance. They named n Sunday, April 1, we met new west in a borehole that would con- it Sótano del Caracol, Snail Pit. Dur- Oteam members for Phase 3 in a tinue the cave’s descent toward ing ten years of intermittent work tree-lined park in downtown Ciudad springs located near the coastal Caracol was pushed to a depth of Victoria, Tamaulipas. Cave divers lowlands. The Infiernillo cliff en- 232 meters, just 323 meters distant Robbie Warke and Pete Mulholland trance is a fossil passage. Local resi- from the entrance. flew in from England. James Brown dents claim that after extremely The Infiernillo Sumps have the drove in from Oregon with Bart heavy, persistent rains, water can potential to add a significant amount Hogan. Mark Minton drove from back up from the sumps and actually of depth to Sistema Purificación at

66 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 the lower end of the system. Caracol at the base of the known cave. It had shaft. Many leads remained, but the has the potential to add another 400 surely been below water on the pre- plan called for a team meeting at meters of vertical extent to the top vious trip. The passage was too Conrado Castillo after the first of the big cave system. Our hope in small to get through, but it had very week’s work to see which area mer- the spring of 2001 was to get through strong airflow. The airflow encour- ited further attention. Since most of the tight stuff in Caracol and deep aged the survey team to give up the the non-divers were going to leave enough that sufficient infeeder pas- survey temporarily in favor of this in another week, the entire team sages had joined to form large cor- exciting dig. The same group re- moved up to the Caracol camp. ridors that would lead north, and turned the next day to continue the During the next week at Caracol, down, toward Sistema Purificación. dig. Droms and Minton took over two climbing leads were investi- Caracol is at the top of a big anti- the dig effort on the following day, gated, one in The 45 and the other cline that plunges to the north, so and got through into a phreatic tube in the Salto del Viento, the big, 90- this situation is geologically fea- of stoop-walking size, which they meter freefall shaft that is the center- sible. For this reason, many groups followed about 80 meters to a short piece of Caracol. Neither inspired have worked on the same ridge for drop. On the next day, Hogan, great hope, although they did not more than twenty years. There is no Shade, and Soriano surveyed the definitively end. The lead at the shortage of pits and caves on this new section of cave to 270 meters bottom of the cave had been so dis- ridge, but they are usually short and depth, where the passage suddenly couraging that everyone was look- clogged with surface debris. Cara- took a sharp turn down dip and ing for better options. When those col is very unusual in this area for dead-ended against a rock wall. A options had been exhausted, Droms, going more than 50 meters deep short climb by Soriano revealed that Hogan, Shade, Stone, and Warke and also for its consistently strong there was a very narrow crevice on returned to the bottom of the cave airflow. Although there were no the other side of this wall. The bot- to see if the airflow that had been known going leads, Mark was in- tom of the crevice was marginally felt at the dig could be found lower terested in several possible climb- passable for a few meters, before it in the cave. Droms and Warke ing leads. could be seen to make a sharp elected to improve rigging in higher During the first week at Caracol, switchback to the southeast for parts of the cave, while Hogan, those not in the dive camp at about 15 meters and then return to Shade, and Stone pushed through Infiernillo started work near the a northwest heading. The passage the nasty tight crawlway at the end previous end of exploration, at the was very small, and they were not of the cave, Fools Go Rushing In. On bottom of the last long drop, The sure if it was passable. the other side of the Fools crawl was 45. They split into two groups, one, By this time, the diving recon a breakdown-floored chamber consisting of Minton, Droms, and team from Infiernillo had traveled about 12 meters in diameter. There Meppelink, to push climbing leads up the mountain to the Proyecto are several leads with airflow out and the other, of Hogan, Shade, and Espeleológico Purificación field of this room, which is at a depth of Soriano, to survey the two short house in Conrado Castillo, after a 282 meters. The cave now has a sur- drops below The 45, which had five-day camp. The Left Hand veyed length of 677 meters. been explored briefly by Minton in Sump had been extended westward When Minton, Droms, Hogan, November 1998. At that time the by Brown, and the Main Sump had and Meppelink returned to the cave had been wetter and the drops been connected by Stone and Mul- States in mid-April, the remaining had appeared to end at a blind holland to the Echo Sump, another six cavers launched a second under- dome. The first climbing lead ended underwater tunnel located some ground camp in Infiernillo. Over quickly. By that time, the survey 300 meters closer to the entrance at the course of the five-day camp, ef- team had found a very low passage the bottom of a 10-meter vertical forts focused on pushing the Main Sump lead from the Echo Sump shaft. In 1993, divers Noel Sloan, Steve Porter, and Bill Stone had reached a penetration in the Main Sump of 155 meters. In April 2001 the line was extended to 306 meters penetration during the first diving camp. When Mulholland surfaced in Echo Sump and looked up the Camp in Infiernillo for the second dive push at Echo Sump. Pete Mulholland, Robbie Warke, Bev Shade, Jim Brown, and Jose Antonio Soriano. Bill Stone.

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the visibility to zero as Mul- route, but found no dry tunnels holland searched for a line leading out of them. The Left Hand tie-off. A second attempt by Sump is consistently large, approxi- Stone the following day mately 10 to 12 meters wide and 8 failed because the visibility meters tall, with very good visibil- remained zero from the pre- ity. It is currently heading west- vious day’s efforts, which southwest in the general direction suggested there was little or of and the Isopod River, two no flow. The underwater large upstream passages that have survey data showed the pas- been known for over two decades. sage doubling back under We speculate that the Left Hand the previously surveyed dry Sump may intersect the water from passage toward the main Moria and the Isopod River before cave. Together with the small continuing north. size, poor visibility, and lack The Infiernillo Sumps appear to of flow, the fact that the tun- be a backwater to a hypothetical nel headed east instead of main flow. Altogether 591 meters of west led to the conclusion new underwater passage were dis- that this was not the main covered in April 2001, bringing the drainage route. total underwater length of the The following day Mul- Infiernillo sump complex to 969 holland made a through- meters and the cave to 94.8 kilome- trip from Echo Sump to the ters. Main Sump, largely for the purpose of transporting the ith the final dive by Mulholland and Brown gear up for a diving apparatus back to the WMulholland and Brown in dive in the Left Hand Sump in Main Sump in preparation the Left Hand Sump, the Inner- Infiernillo. Bill Stone. for further dives in the Left Space Odyssey expedition came to Hand Sump. Along the way, a close. We managed to map 3.7 ki- sheer-sided shaft rising more than following discussions with Stone, lometers of virgin territory in caves 10 meters above him, he thought he he rechecked the deepest point in considered long finished. Nearly all had arrived in virgin territory. A Sump 1, in an area where the pas- of it was due to the diving and look at the survey data, however, sage makes an abrupt bend, but climbing technologies that were convinced us that a connection had found no continuing tunnel. been achieved. Sure enough, when This bend, at 57 meters wa- Sorting gear back in Texas at the end we hiked down that tunnel and ter depth, remains the deep- of April. Bill Stone. rigged the shaft, there was Pete’s est point in Sistema Purifi- dive line, pristinely white, tied off cación. to the wall. But that gave us an idea. In 1993 the Left Hand If we had some sort of diving plat- Sump had been surveyed to form down at the water level, we a penetration of 195 meters could cut off 300 meters of under- by Jim Brown. During the water tunnel and proceed directly first diving camp in 2001, into unknown territory. Everyone Brown extended that to a quickly bought into the idea, and a penetration of 486 meters. platform was designed at the PEP Brown subsequently made a field house in Conrado Castillo. diving through-trip from During the second week at Caracol, the Left Hand Sump to the workers at the nearby sawmill in Main Sump via a tunnel dis- Revilla cut fresh pine to our speci- covered by Kenny Broad in fications, and the platform was fit- 1993 but never fully ex- ted together, then disassembled for plored. This opened access transport to the cave. to the Left Hand Sump from Subsequent dives in Echo Sump the much easier sandy beach by Mulholland and Stone led entry of the Main Sump, as downward to a depth of 50 meters opposed to the 10-meter underwater. Exploration stopped at rappel into the Left Hand a restriction 1 meter tall and 2 Sump. During the second meters wide. Normally this would diving camp, Jim Brown not have presented much of a prob- and Pete Mulholland found lem, but a deep layer of silt reduced several air bells along this

70 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 used by the team. It is of some note Soriano (Mexico), Bill Stone (U.S.), Shade (U.S.), Jose Antonio Soriano that team members scaled nearly Gustavo Vela Turcott (Mexico), and (Mexico), Bill Stone (U.S.), and 500 meters of vertical shafts with a Andy Zellner (U.S.). Robbie Warke (U.K.). perfect safety record. Likewise, the Team Members during Phase 2, The U.S. Deep Caving Team cracking of the Huautla Resurgence also in Oaxaca, were Kasia Biernaka gratefully acknowledges the sup- at 1059 meters from the spring ris- (Poland), Charles Brickey (U.S.), port of the following sponsors: ing is an important milestone that Mark Crapelle (Canada), Marcin Proyecto Espeleológico Purifica- may open a back door to Sistema Gala (Poland), Greg Horne (Canada), ción, Sopakco, Structural Compos- Huautla. A return trip to Caracol is Jason Mallinson (U.K.), Bev Shade ites Industries, Hitachi, Diversified planned for March-April of 2002. (U.S.), Jose Antonio Soriano (Mexico), Fastening Systems USA, Air Prod- Rick Stanton (U.K.), and Bill Stone ucts and Chemicals, Pigeon Moun- Team Members during Phase 1, in (U.S.). tain Industries, Underwater Kinet- Oaxaca, were Page Ashwell (U.S.), Team Members during Phase 3 ics, Dogwood City , NSS Cave Kasia Biernaka (Poland), Mark were James Brown (U.S.), Yvonne Diving Section, Oregon Freeze Dry, Crapelle (Canada), Marcin Gala Droms (U.S.), Bart Hogan (U.S.), Joe Dive Rite, Liberty Mountain Sports, (Poland), Jason Mallinson (U.K.), Meppelink (U.S.), Mark Minton Cis-Lunar Development Labs, Sue Bev Shade (U.S.), José Antonio (U.S.), Pete Mulholland (U.K.), Bev Shade, and A. James King, Jr.

Expedición Odisea del Espacio Interior

En invierno y primavera del 2001, el U.S. Deep Caving Team pasó tres meses en México. El primer mes estuvieron basados en San Agustín Zaragoza, cerca de Huautla, Oaxaca, en búsqueda del río que desaparece en el fondo del Sótano del Río Iglesia. Además de revisar Iglesia, en donde se hicieron varias escaladas de domos con buriles, se escalaron 140 metros por encima del campamento en Cueva de San Agustín, pero no se hicieron descubrimientos importantes. El segundo mes lo pasaron en el cañón del río Santo Domingo, en las resurgencias de los sistemas Cheve y Huautla. En la primera, los espeleobuzos exploraron las porciones sumergidas, mientras los demás escalaron algunos domos. Mediante el empleo de respiradores de circuito cerrado, la resurgencia de Huautla fue buceada por una distancia de 1059 metros a una profundidad máxima de 65 metros. Los buzos salieron a la base de un domo, y pudieron observar una gran continuación en la parte alta, pero les fue imposible salir del agua. Debido a la descompresión, el viaje redondo hasta este punto requiere cinco y media horas de buceo. El tercer mes fue dedicado a bucear los sifones en la porción de Infiernillo del Sistema Purificación, en Tamaulipas, y a continuar la exploración del Sótano de Caracol, cerca de Revilla, en la parte alta de las montañas.

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CUEVA DE LOS CRISTALES

Carlos Lazcano Sahagún

he first time I visited the Cave are almost always full of crystals of (140°F) and the humidity was 100 Tof the Crystals in Chihuahua, gypsum, which is very common in percent, the miners could not ex- in August 2000, it was impossible the mine, and many workers take plore beyond the first room. Again, for me to stop thinking about Gruta them out to sell them to the numer- González ordered the tunnel re- de Yaax-Nik, in Yucatán, which I ous collectors who arrive in Naica routed, and he ordered the original wrote about in AMCS Activities in search of them. Nevertheless, route closed with a concrete wall Newsletter 17. I had thought I’d when they opened up the hole, Eloy and a steel door when one of the never have an opportunity to visit realized that it was something big- mine workers attacked one of the another cave of similar beauty, be- ger than usual. megacrystals, trying to take it out cause such caves are very rare. I had With some difficulty, the brothers in pieces to sell in the market. been wrong, and what I saw in the passed the narrow hole, arriving in Because I know geologists in Cave of the Crystals left me gaping. a room of some size. They were Chihuahua, I heard a rumor two And not only me, but also my friend amazed by what they saw. They had months later of this new cave of Claude Chabert, a French speleolo- penetrated into a kind of geode or great beauty in Naica, and I called gist whom I had invited to come bubble around 8 meters in diameter, Ing. González, who kindly not only along because he was in Chihuahua lined with crystals, white and allowed me to visit the mine and the at the time. I saw Claude’s surprise sharp, of great size. Even though the cave, but also asked me to make it was as great as mine, and that gave crystals were gypsum, they realized known to the press, because he con- me more confidence that we were they were completely different in sidered it an outstanding discovery seeing something really amazing size from what they usually found. worth reporting. and unique, because Claude, as Wherever they shined their lights, The Peñoles Company runs the shown by his Atlas of the Great Caves the brightness of the crystals made mine, which produces mainly lead, of the World and other books, is a the cavity shine. Seeing this, they but also some , copper, and speleologist who knows the world stopped drilling and immediately . We went to see the cave in a of caves, and he does not get car- notified Ing. Roberto González, company truck, guided by Carlos ried away by any little hollow, even manager of the mine, who sent Valles, one of the mine’s security if it is touted as the best of the best. qualified personnel to inspect the people. We went through about 4 find. He was told that the cavity, kilometers of rooms and tunnels he story of the Cave of the Crys- even though small, showed uncom- until we reached a depth of 300 Ttals started at the beginning of mon crystallization. Conscious that meters. The temperature was high, April 2000, when Eloy Delgado and this was a treasure that Nature had and we could feel the humidity. We his brother Javier were operating a been jealously keeping, he ordered stopped in front of a concrete wall large and powerful drill to make an the tunnel diverted to avoid dam- with a steel door. Carlos opened it, exploratory tunnel 300 meters deep age to the crystals. and we walked onto a concrete in the mine at Naica. Suddenly, the A few days later, when the drill- ramp, where it felt like the heat had drill hit emptiness, and they saw a ing of the tunnel had resumed, an- doubled. At the end of the ramp we little hole that seemed to go into a other cavity full of crystals was saw the entrance to the cave, and larger cavity. They, like other work- found a few meters away, this one when we passed through it, we felt ers in the mine, were used to the fact a bit bigger. When it was inspected, as if we were going into a furnace. that every now and then their exca- the surprised miners found another We immediately started sweating vations hit cracks or fissures of room full of gigantic selenite crys- copiously. I had never felt so hot. small size, 2 or 3 meters at the most, tals. (Selenite is a crystal form of For a moment, we forgot the heat, as they follow mineral veins or tun- gypsum.) Because the temperature because in front of us was a room nel for other reasons. These cracks in this cave was 60 degrees C full of crystals of immense size.

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They were undoubtedly the biggest The cave formed along a fault I and probably nobody else had crystals I had seen in my entire life. and was flooded with water that ever imagined, because these were They came from everywhere and was hot, maybe 50 degrees C or the first crystals discovered of this went in all directions, joining the more, and had a high content of dis- size. floor and the ceiling. Some, totally solved from its circulation A few days later, I returned to the transparent in places, seemed like through the mineralized cracks and cave, and Richard Fisher, an ex- beams of light crossing the cham- crevices. In the stable space of the plorer from Tucson, went with me. ber, filling it with white. Others cave, the crystals grew for thou- The pictures I had taken during my looked like enormous crystal bars, of years, maybe hundreds of first visit, the first ever taken of the long and square. Four, five, six, and thousands, covering the walls and cave, had come out all right, so this even seven meters long, we esti- ceilings until they reached the di- time I came prepared to take a more mated, and reaching the diameters mensions that we see now, some- complete series. I could not explore of a person. Amazing! That’s when thing fantastic that only Nature, much more than I had before, be- I thought of Yaax-Nik and how with more imagination than ours, cause of the heat. This time we subterranean beauty can take unex- could have created. Some time later, stayed inside for ten minutes, which pected forms. the water level lowered, leaving the left us so exhausted and dehydrated Our astonished inspection had cave dry and ready to be discov- that we didn’t have the spirit to visit only begun when we realized we ered. Now, the natural water level other parts of the mine we were in- couldn’t stay very long. The heat is 700 meters deep, and the mine terested in. Later on, I’ve made was overwhelming. I tried to take a has to pump out forty thousand other visits to take more pictures picture, but the view through my gallons per minute, day and night, and try to explore a little bit more. camera was more than blurred, and of 55-degree-C water. It seems like the cave consists of my hands were so sweaty they While we were recovering from only this room, not very big but made it even wetter, so we decided the heat, I was preparing my cam- immensely marvelous, but the truth to leave for a while to rest. We had era to try to take a series of pictures. is I can’t say I’ve explored it all, be- not been in there more than two Of course I had thought of the pos- cause the heat allows only a few minutes. As we went back out the sibility that it would be damaged minutes inside. Mapping is impos- ramp, we felt the atmosphere cool, by the climate of the place. That’s sible. and when we got out into the mine why I took a camera totally manual Between these visits, I have stud- tunnel we felt cold, even though the and mechanical, nothing electronic. ied other caves in the world that are temperature there was still over 40 It wasn’t the first time I had degrees C. encountered a hot and humid Cueva de los Cristales is 4 kilometers cave. Tolantongo, with its hot into the mine at a depth of 300 rystals the size of the amazing river, is just as bad. Now I meters. Carlos Lazcano. Cones in the Cave of the Crystals would test my experience as are due to several unusual condi- a cave photographer. tions. Between 3 and 5 kilometers When we entered the cave below the surface, there is a cham- again, I positioned myself in ber of high-temperature magma. a strategic place and started That heats the entire interior of the shooting. Even though I could mountain, and the deeper you go, clean the lens quickly, I could the hotter it is. The active tunnels never really frame a picture, in the mine are 700 meters deep, because by the time I looked and work is possible there only be- through it, the lens was misty cause of ventilation and air condi- again, so I had to just aim by tioning. There are parts of the mine eye, estimating distances to that don’t have that ventilation, set the lens opening and flash such as the Cave of the Crystals, and intensity. Between the shots, then you feel the real temperature which weren’t very many, I of the mountain. could see that the cave isn’t very large, maybe 30 meters in diameter, mostly covered Photo subjects: Page 73 bottom, by the megacrystals of selen- Humberto Delgado. Page 73 ite. I couldn’t look around top and page 75 right, Octavio very much, because in a couple Galindo. Page 74 left, Eloy of minutes the heat chased us Hernández. Page 74 right, out again. After another rest, we went Sonia Estrada. Page 75 left, back in, now to explore. We Joaquín Berruecos. climbed up and down among Carlos Lazcano. the giant crystals, something

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Humberto Delgado in Cave of the Crystals. Carlos Lazcano. known for their crystals. Nothing else is like Cave of the Crystals, or comes close. The Cave of the Swords, in the same mine, comes closest, but it is still far from equal.

hose of us who have seen the TCave of the Crystals worry about the care and conservation of the cave. The managers of the are totally aware of this. Peñoles Company has accepted the suggestion that the cave be opened to the public as a measure to pre- vent the workers from destroying it. Two crystals have already been cut up by some of the miners. Right now, ways it might be made acces- sible are being studied, as is whether some ventilation to make it more comfortable will affect the crystals. Once this has been done, it will be opened in a very controlled way so that others can admire the things we marveled at.

Cueva de los Cristales

En abril de 2000 se intersectaron dos nuevas cavidades naturales en la profunda mina de Naica, Chihuahua. El mayor de estos salones contiene cristales de selenita de hasta 7 metros de largo, los mayores cristales jamás encontrados en una cueva. El salón está a 300 metros de profundidad y es solo accesible a través de la mina, y no ha sido topografiado o explorado totalmente, ya que en su interior la temperatura alcanza los 60 grados Centígrados, y la humedad es del 100%.

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A NEW MAP OF SAC ACTUN, QUINTANA ROO

Bil Phillips

istema Sac Actun was originally lines on the siphon side of Cenote kilometers. An additional 5400 Sdiscovered by James Coke IV in Grande, beyond Snake Cenote. Be- meters of Sistema Naval lies on the 1986 and explored by Jim and H. cause of major restrictions and high downstream side of Cenote Naval, Ayala, L. Conlin, S. DeCarlo, J. flow, this section had previously separated by 500 meters of open DeGroot, C. Goulet, R. Ribb, T. been thought impassable. At the water, and only an estimated 230 Young, J. Zumrick, and the late same time, Bil Phillips, Kurt Olsen, meters from the other end of Sis- Parker Turner. [See article and early and Mike Heusick made the first tema Naval is Sistema Abejas, with map in AMCS Activities Newsletter dives in Cenote Calimba, a small, 9 kilometers of passage. [See area 17.] The result was 4330 meters of partly dry cave a third of a kilome- map in “Mexico News,” AMCS Ac- spectacular passages and rooms. ter north, off the road to Coba. tivities Newsletter 24.] This survey, mostly performed by Sam Meacham later joined Bil to Jim Coke and Tom Young, was then make the connection between Ca- n view of all the developments drafted by Coke and published in limba and the Paso de los Dos Pozos Isince Jim Coke’s original cartog- 1993, setting the standard as the section of Sac Actun, through an raphy in the early 1990s, Jim sug- most detailed underwater cave car- infamous passage subsequently gested that it was time to redraw tography ever done. The system, named the Boa Restriction. Further the map. Through the efforts of Jim while relatively small by interna- exploration by Daniel Riordan and Coke, Hazel Barton, Marike Jasper, tional standards, still holds its own Phillips, along with Bernd Birn- Dan Lins, Andreas Matthes, and Bil as one of the most spectacular dis- bach, Pablo Diaz, Steve Gerrard, Phillips, that is exactly what hap- plays of underwater speleothems. Kate Lewis, Eulgioe Martirezneto, pened. Years of exploration and From an exploration point of and Jana Smith, resulted in the ad- survey data were consolidated. Sev- view, the cave sat relatively dor- dition of 4975 meters on the up- eral months of hard work drawing mant for several years, as the origi- stream side, almost doubling the at the same scale as Jim’s earlier nal explorers’ work was considered length of the cave. map resulted in a working map 3 thorough, and most divers were By the early summer of 1998, Sac by 6.5 feet in size. A full-size repro- unable to visit even all the charted Actun was no longer the little cave duction of this map is now posted passages. The ends of the existing of the past. It contained over 11 ki- at Cenote Grande, the main entrance dive lines were at least a single stage lometers of explored passages and to Sac Actun. Smaller versions are bottle away, and the maze of deco- ranked as the fifth longest in the also available. rations, twisting and turning pas- Yucatan and unquestionably one of sages, and restrictions made this the most impressive and revered cave a technical challenge. Heaven water-filled caves found anywhere La caverna subacuática de Sac forbid that one should accidentally in the world. Meanwhile, a mile to Actún, Quintana Roo, solamente break anything while maneuvering the southeast, Bill Gavin, George medía 4300 metros cuando se among the decorations. Several Irvine, Mike Madden, Hilario Hiler, publico el mapa en el AMCS cavers did poke away in the far Dan Lins, and Andreas Matthes had Activities Newsletter 17 en 1988. reaches, adding little line. explored the Naval system, acces- Las exploraciones recientes It wasn’t until the middle 1990s sible only from a military airfield. conectaron Sac Actún al Cenote that this system grew significantly. In March 1999, Dan Lins invited Bil Calimba y al Cenote Naval, In 1995–96, Dan Lins and Chuck Phillips to return with him to the incrementando la longitud a 17 Stevens, assisted by Woody Jasper downstream reaches of Sac Actun, and Bob Messersmith, surprised the from Cenote Grande, in pursuit of kilómetros. La posible conexión cave-diving community by adding a connection to Cenote Naval. It en el futuro con otras cuevas 1631 meters to Coke and Ed Forelli’s took four dives through a number mas cercanas a la costa exten- of serious side-mount restrictions dería la cavidad otros 15 kiló- A version of this article appeared and 580 meters of new passage to metros. in Underwater Speleology, volume 28 finally make the connection. The number 6, December 2001. total length of Sac Actun is now 17

78

AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

SEARCHING FOR CAVES NEAR EL CIELO, TAMAULIPAS

Gerald Moni location maps by Hal Love

or the last forty years, cavers Zellner. On Wednesday, Gerald, On Wednesday, we drove toward Fhave been looking for cuevas Andy, Jim, and others went to El Joya de Salas. On the way, we and sótanos at and near El Cielo, a Cielo to locate and explore Sótano searched for 2000 Meter Cave. We research center located in the Sierra de Harrison. They never did find found Sótano de Gallos instead. de Guatemala. Starting in Novem- this pit, but Doug Strait did find This pit is near 2000 Meter Cave, but ber 1996, a group of mainly TAG Sótano de Ebano. The same day, a neither the location nor the descrip- cavers started searching the Sierra local guide led us to Sótano de tion matches the information on de Guatemala for new caves and Cristales. 2000 Meter Cave in the Association relocating the few known caves. We On Monday, Jim Smith, Doug for Mexican Cave Studies Newsletter, also planned to check out three Strait, John Stembel, and Susan volume 1 number 3, March 1965. leads that Peter Sprouse had seen Stembel searched several kilome- After exploring the roadside pit, we on a flight over the area in the 1970s. ters northeast of Julilo. They found spent the rest of the day clearing an We made five trips to the area between three small caves. On Tuesday, Jim old logging road. November 1996 and December 1998. and Doug explored several kilome- On Thursday, we found another Our group consisted of sixteen ters northwest of Julilo and found of Peter Sprouse’s leads, a large cavers during Thanksgiving Week two pits. Alan Cressler and others karst feature 60 meters long, 10 1996. We camped at the town of walked from the camp at Julilo and meters wide, and 10 meters deep. Julilo, which is 15 kilometers north found several pits. They checked One side can be downclimbed, and of El Cielo. It is reached from the out another lead and found that it the other side opens into the jungle. town of Encino on Highway 85. A was a large karst feature, a sink with On Friday, Jim and Dave revisited dirt road from Encino goes through a headwall. On Wednesday, they the Tres Ojos area and descended Julilo to Joya de Salas, a large sink- found Sótano de los Tres Ojos Sótano Trogon, a virgin 39-meter hole valley. There are several aban- Verdes. The cave is 176 meters deep, pit. The other two pits they had doned houses in Julilo, and one with two pits, one of 128 meters. found on Sunday were not done. family still lives there. We split into The second trip was over Easter During the week, we explored three groups and spent five days Week 1997. The four cavers were twelve caves. finding and exploring twenty-two Gerald Moni, Jim Smith, E. T. Davis, The third trip was Thanksgiving caves in that area. At least four of and Dave DeHart. On Sunday, Week 1997. We drove up an over- the caves were already known to March 22, Jim and Dave ridge- grown road that goes 23.2 kilome- American cavers, but our big find, walked the Sótano de los Tres Ojos ters northward, from the junction of Sótano de los Tres Ojos Verdes, was Verdes area and found three pits the El Cielo and Joya de Salas roads virgin. (See article in AMCS Activi- before meeting up with Gerald and at Julilo. We checked the sides of the ties Newsletter 22.) E. T. that afternoon to search for road, ridgewalked, and had one On Monday and Tuesday, Gerald caves west of San Pablo with guide Mexican show us three caves. The Moni, Marion Ziemons, Andy Zell- Jilario. He showed us five caves and area was not checked well, but the ner, and others ridgewalked on the pits. When we got back, we found eleven caves we found are probably east slope of the valley of Joya de that our tents had been entered and most of the easily found ones. See Salas. We were looking for one of various items stolen. We left the the road log. the leads that Peter had told us area and went to El Cielo, where we The fourth trip was Easter Week about. We were in the right general found a new guide named Juan 1998. Four cavers, Ted Wilson, Jim area, but we did not find any caves Manuel Cordova Alvárez. He Smith, Andy Zellner, and Marion O. or karst features large enough to be showed us two well-visited caves, Smith, started at Gómez Farías and seen from the air. Three small caves Harrison and Crystal searched for new and known caves were found, Sótano de Mariana, Cave, known for forty years. After- along the road to El Refugio. In El Cueva de Timas, and Cueva de ward he showed us three new pits. Refugio, they visited Sótano de los

81 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

CAVES OF THE EL CIELO AREA

cave location horiz.** vertical deepest number number* map length (m) extent (m) pit (m) of pits

Gomez Farias quad (F14A49)

Sótano de la Joya de Salas TM25 4 1039 376 70 10 Sótano de la Sierra Cucharas TM45 6 80 100 65 1 Sótano de Abraham TM54 2 6 37 36 1 Cueva de Ajoles TM56 2 70 36 30 1 Sótano de Alvarez TM57 1 15 46 16 4 Pozo de Arco Fluido ...... TM58 . . . . . 1 ...... 30 ...... 24 ...... 24 ...... 1 Cueva de Cañón de Diablo TM62 1 50 18 Sótano de Cardenas TM63 2 14 23 22 1 Sótano de Cristales TM66 1 23 41 39 1 Crystal Cave TM67 1 55 10 Sótano de Ebano TM68 1 10 52 49 2 Sótano de Escudo Escondido ...... TM69 . . . . . 2 ...... 13 ...... 31 ...... 31 ...... 1 Sótano de Gallos TM70 3 4 26 26 1 Sótano de Guano Lomito TM72 1 50 15 9 1 Harrison Sinkhole TM74 1 47 45 37 1 Cueva de Jilario TM77 1 80 15 Cueva de Julilo TM78 2 65 13 Sótano de Ladrones ...... TM79 . . . . . 1 ...... 12 ...... 27 ...... 27 ...... 1 Cueva Madriguera del Oso TM81 5 60 12 Sótano de Manuel TM82 1 40 45 34 1 Sótano de Mariana TM83 3 80 30 26 1 Joya de la Mina Barita TM84 2 100 61 44 1 Sótano de Muchos Insectos TM86 3 35 40 28 1 Cueva de Murcielago Atacante . . . . TM87 . . . . . 1 ...... 3 ...... 22 ...... 22 ...... 1 Sótano de Musgo de Arbol TM88 1 4 22 21 1 Cueva de Ninfa del Bosque TM91 5 25 5 Sótano de Ojos de Aguila TM92 5 90 40 26 2 Sótano de Plan TM98 1 6 23 23 1 Sotanito de Plan TM99 1 6 15 14 1 Cueva de la Polilla ...... TM100 . . . . 1 ...... 25 ...... 15 ...... Sótano de San Pablo TM106 1 60 85 79 1 Sótano de Santa Maria TM108 2 75 55 41 1 Cueva de Timas TM112 3 16 13 6 1 Sótano de los Tres Ojos Verdes TM114 2 52 176 128 2 Sótano Trogon TM115 2 8 39 39 1 Cueva de Zellner ...... TM117 . . . . 3 ...... 65 ...... 13 ...... Sótano Sin Bichos TM118 7 10 20 10 1 Cueva de Carrera TM119 5 60 30 Sótano de Cigarro TM120 2 6 35 35 1 Cueva de la Cima de San José TM121 6 250 80 Sótano de Jabalies TM126 5 25 24 16 1 Cueva de Mono ...... TM128 . . . . 5 ...... 55 ...... 15 ...... Cueva Parada de Descansar TM131 5 50 15 Sótano del Queso Grande TM132 5 10 13 8 2 Sótano Reencontrado TM134 5 5 18 16 1 Pozo de Vapor TM137 5 20 47 41 2 Cueva de Carmen TM139 4 40 8 Cueva de los Leones TM140 4 135 50 11 1

82 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

CAVES OF THE EL CIELO AREA continued

cave location horiz.** vertical deepest number number* map length (m) extent (m) pit (m) of pits

Llera de Canales quad (F14A39)

Grieta Desesperada TM124 8 100 43 20 2 Cueva de Leo TM127 8 18 5 Sótano Ultimo TM136 8 3 22 22 1

El Llano de Azuas quad (F14A48)

Cueva del Entierro TM122 9 28 5 Cueva del Papecido TM130 9 40 5

Ocampo quad (F14A58)

Cueva de Graciano TM41 10 104 30 Cueva Escalera de Raices TM123 10 16 12 Sótano de los Guacamayos TM125 10 66 146 140 1 Cueva Obscura TM129 10 36 20 Cueva de las Raices TM133 10 20 5 Cueva de El Refugio TM135 10 103 5 Sótano de Ventana del Arroyo TM138 10 15 10 9 1

Loma Alta quad (F14A59)

Bee Cave TM3 12 125 110 74 1 Sótano de Caballo Moro TM4 11 326 196 146 1 Cueva de Coahuila TM12 11 100 25 Cueva de los Misioneros TM28 11 450 60 40 3? Cueva y Sótano San Rafael TM44 13 60 30 18 1

* Number in the author’s Mexican . ** Length of the projection of the cave onto horizontal plane.

Guacamayos. This cave has a 140- road from Encino to Joya de Salas. 45. Sótano de la Sierra Cucharas. meter pit. Killer bees were living in We found only one new cave and From the town of Gómez Farías, take a crack on the high, western side of visited two known caves. the road up the escarpment that goes the pit. Maria Alejandrina Chagoya, During our five trips to this area, toward Alta Cima. There is a shal- who guided them to the cave, lives we found few caves and even fewer low sinkhole on the south side of the in the first house on the south side caves that are worth doing. The lack road where it goes through gap at of the llano at El Refugio. They of local people in the area can only the top of the escarpment. Walk found and explored several new partially explain our lack of success. along west side of sink and 100 to caves near El Refugio. They then For some reason, this area is cave- 200 meters into the jungle. drove back to El Elefante and went poor. The pit entrance is in a fissure north looking for new caves, but about 7 by 20 meters. The best rig found only one, Sótano sin Bichos, point is on the north side. At the northeast of El Indio. In all, they CAVE DESCRIPTIONS bottom of the 65-meter pit, a break- explored twelve caves. See the road Gómez Farías Quadrangle down slope and climb down lead to log. a small passage that goes about 20 The fifth and last trip was Christ- 25. Sótano de la Joya de Salas. A de- meters. mas 1998. The group consisted of scription and map of this cave appear 54. Sótano de Abraham. One and Gerald Moni, David Cole, and in AMCS Bulletin 1, Caves of the Inter- a half kilometers from Julilo along Aaron Atz. We followed the logging American Highway, pp 48–50. the road to El Povenir, visible from

83 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Road log from the junction of the El Cielo road and Joya de Salas road at Julilo on the Gómez Farías topo northward to the southern end of the Llera de Canales topo.

miles kms 0 0 Junction of the El Cielo road and the Joya de Salas road at Julilo. 0.9 1.4 Junction of Joya de Salas road with northward road. 1.5 2.4 Sótano de Cigarro is 20 meters right (east) of northward road. 3.7 6.0 Sótano de Jabalies is 1 meter right (northeast) of road. 4.5 7.2 Sótano del Queso Grande is 2 meters left (north) of road. 5.8 9.3 Sótano de Ojos de Aguila is 10 m left (west ) of road. 6.5 10.5 Sótano Reencontrado is 600 meters right (east-northeast) of road. 6.7 10.8 First loop trail to right (west). Pozo de Vapor is 30 meters down trail and 4 meters to the left (southwest). 6.8 10.9 Second loop trail, loop trail rejoins road on right. 6.9 11.1 Cueva Parada de Descansar, a large shelter cave 60 meters on right (east). 7.1 11.4 Open field with water tank. To the left (northwest) in the jungle are Cueva de Carrera and Cueva de Mono. 10.5 16.9 Major ravine that was used for camping. 11.9 19.2 Open field with house and . 13.9 22.4 Sótano Ultimo is 10 meters right (northeast) of road. 14.0 22.5 Grieta Desesperada is 300 right (east) of road. 14.2 22.9 Field near end of road. 14.4 23.2 End of road. Trail goes northwest toward Carabanchel. the road 18 meters to the east. enter without hammering. Slight air- main road, on a hillside facing 220 de- A 5-by-5-meter open-air pit 36.6 flow. grees, 0.9 kilometers northwest of El meters deep. A small at the bot- 58. Pozo de Arco Fluido. In the Cielo. Two hundred meters northwest tom shows evidence of flooding. jungle 1.6 kilometers south-southwest of number 82. 56. Cueva de Ajoles. Located just of San Pablo. The main entrance is a pit 39 meters west of the road to Joya de Salas 1.5 There are three pit entrances. En- deep from the high side and 15 meters kilometers north of Julilo, 250 meters trance 1 is 1.3 by 1.2 meters at the top by 10 meters wide. A second entrance, past the junction of the main road to and drops 24 meters, with a ledge 10 2 meters by 1 meter, is 3 meters down- Joya de Salas with a north-south road. meters down. Entrance 2 is 7 meters hill from the main entrance, and a third A huge shelter 18 meters high and southeast of Entrance 1, is 2 by 8 meters entrance, 2.6 by 1 meters, is 9 meters 70 meters wide, with a steep slope ex- wide, and is 17 meters deep. Entrance downhill from the main entrance. The tending 16 meters down and 30 meters 3 is a small skylight between the other room at the bottom is 23 meters across. back. Massive floor-to-ceiling forma- two. From the bottom of entrance 1, a 67. Crystal Cave. This cave is 100 tions are in the south end of the room. canyon goes under the skylight to the meters south of El Cielo. It was men- A second entrance is a 30.3-meter pit bottom of Entrance 2. Another passage tioned in Association for Mexican Cave from a hole 2 meters across east-to-west goes from the bottom of Entrance 1 to Studies Newsletter, vol. 4, no. 3, from and 2.5 meters north-to-south. A poten- a flowstone wall in a dome. which the accompanying map is taken. tial archaeological site, but no evidence 62. Cueva de Cañón de Diablo. One 68. Sótano de Ebano. On a hillside of occupation was seen. kilometer southwest of San Pablo, on facing 130 degrees 0.8 kilometers north- 57. Sótano de Alvarez. Seven tenths the northeast slope of the canyon. east of El Cielo, 40 meters from and 12 of a kilometer southwest of El Cielo, 15 From the main entrance, 8 meters meters above a trail and 65 meters be- meters northwest of the road that goes wide and 4 meters high, the passage low another trail. from El Cielo to San Pablo. It is directly slopes down 12 meters vertically into The 49-meter entrance pit is 1.6 by 2.6 across the road from a roadside pit 3 a room 20 meters across. An 8-meter meters at the top and enlarges to 5 meters meters deep. climb up at the other end of the room in diameter about 30 meters down. From The pit entrance is 4 by 3 meters. The leads to a small second entrance. the bottom, a short stoopway leads 5 pit drops 10 meters to a room from 63. Sótano de Cardenas. On the meters to a small, well-decorated room. which a passage 5 meters long slopes north side of a populated valley, 2.9 Across the pit, a 3-meter climb up leads down 1.2 meters to a 16-meter pit. From kilometers south-southeast of Julilo to a tight crack from which an unde- the bottom of this pit, a 6-meter-long and 0.8 kilometers east of the road from scended pit drops about 6 meters to a canyon, a 2.5-meter climb down, and 3 Julilo to El Cielo. dirt floor, apparently blind. more meters of passage lead to the The entrance to the 22-meter pit is 69. Sótano de Escudo Escondido. A third pit, which drops 5 meters to a 14 meters north-south and 5 meters half-kilometer east of the north-south room. From there, a 15-meter-long east-west. There are no leads at the road, 1.5 kilometers north of Julilo and crawl leads to a fourth pit, estimated bottom. 0.5 kilometers northeast of the road junc- to be 9 meters deep, but too tight to 66. Sótano de Cristales. East of the tion. It is 25 meters east of number 114.

84 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Road log, compiled by Andy Zellner, from the junction of Highway 85 and the Gómez Farías road to Gómez Farías, up the mountain and west to Alta Cima, El Elefante, and El Refugio.

miles kms 0 0 Junction of Highway 85 and the Gómez Farías road. 7.0 11.3 Gómez Farías plaza, elevation 380 meters. 7.2 11.6 Pavement ends. 7.6 12.2 Road curves down into valley. Side road on right. 8.1 13.0 Sign at junction of aqueduct trail and road up mountain. Road goes up to the left. 11.6 18.7 Top of grade; road levels out. 12.4 20.0 Parking on right (north) for Sótano de la Sierra Cucharas, a 65-meter pit. Pit is south of the road beyond two small corn fields and to the left (east) along a foot trail about 20 minutes walk from the road. 14.2 22.9 Road tees at El Cielo sign. Turn left toward Alta Cima. 14.4 23.2 Alta Cima. Pass through gate. Road from here is recommended for four-wheel-drive vehicles only. 15.3 24.6 Side road to left (south). 16.0 25.8 Gated side road to south. 16.4 26.4 Flat, grassy area suitable for camping. Side jeep road continues to north. 17.0 27.4 Uphill side road to north. 17.1 27.5 Side road to south. 17.2 27.7 Side road to north. 17.4 28.0 Road splits; lower is main road. 17.9 28.8 Splits come together. 18.2 29.3 Research station cabanas. Pass though two gates. 18.9 30.4 San José. As you enter from the south, the faint main road turns sharply west before you reach “No Tronar Cohetes” sign. Guides are available here to several local caves. As road begins ascending from the llano containing San José, it splits briefly. Left is main road. Road from here has some steep, rough sections as it ascends. 20.0 32.2 Old side road angles back to right (northwest). 20.4 32.8 Old side road goes downhill to left (west). 20.5 33.0 Side road to left (south). 20.6 33.2 Side road/path to right. 20.7 33.3 Gate entering La Gloria. 20.9 33.6 Gate leaving La Gloria. 21.8 35.1 Old road/path to right (north) with log across road. 22.9 36.9 El Elefante junction. Road to right (northwest) goes 6.1 kilometers to El Indio (2165 meters elevation). 23.1 37.2 El Elefante. 23.3 37.5 Gate. Begin descending to Manantiales. 23.6 38.0 Manantiales. Continue east until road makes a right turn directly in front of a row of houses. Follow it to the right (south) out of Manantiales. Caves reported on left as you leave town. 24.0 38.6 Turn right (west) up steep road. Straight ahead (downhill) reportedly ends at a milpa. E5 painted on rock near junction. 24.7 39.8 Gate. 24.8 39.9 Steep downhill section. 26.0 41.9 Y junction. From Manantiales, you approach junction on upper right arm of Y. Continue past junction a few feet. Then back down the left upper arm (toward the west) about 150 meters to a place where you can turn around; do so. The stem of the Y reportedly goes to Ocampo. 26.7 43.0 Old side road on right (east) at curve at start of steep section. 27.0 43.5 Hoya Ruiz. Old metal water tank on north side of road in overgrown clearing. 27.2 43.8 Old side road angling down to north. 27.3 44.0 Old side road to right (northwest). Small trees in road. 29.3 47.2 Level spot in road that was used for camping. Two small caves 15–20 meters to west. 29.8 48.0 Road junction. Bear right (northeast) to El Refugio. Road to left reportedly ends soon. 30.3 48.8 El Refugio llano.

85 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

86 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

The entrance is an obscure crack 5.2 Meter Cave (Association for Mexican on the topo, 10 meters down and 75 meters long and 1.5 meters wide in a Cave Studies Newsletter, vol. 1, no. 3, p. meters southwest, in a sinkhole. large limestone pinnacle. The nice wall- 25), but neither the exact location nor This cave is reported in Association drop is 30.8 meters deep into a 15-meter- the description agrees. for Mexican Cave Studies Newsletter, vol. long chamber with nice formations, 72. Sótano de Guano Lomito. 4, no. 3, from which the accompanying including a large shield. There is a bat Slightly north and 300 meters west of map is taken. colony in a dome. A map of the cave El Cielo, and 25 meters south of the El 77. Cueva de Jilario. The entrance is appears in AMCS Activities Newsletter Cielo–Julilo road. in a cliff 8 meters high, facing 160 de- 22, page 115. The pit’s entrance is 8 by 2 meters, grees, 1.7 kilometers southwest of San 70. Sótano de Gallos. Three meters and it is 9 meters deep. There is a very Pablo. east-southeast of the Julilo–Joya de small skylight entrance 3 meters to the The 10-meter-wide and 7-meter- Salas road, 6.3 kilometers northwest of south. The room at the bottom is 30 high entrance slopes down 10 meters Julilo. meters long and contains a small hill vertically into a room 25 meters across The pit is 1.2 by 1.5 meters at the top of guano. A side passage goes 15 meters and 15 meters high. A side passage goes and 26 meters deep. The bottom is 4 to a room 8 meters long. right 15 meters, and another, to the left, meters across, with no leads. This cave 74. Harrison Sinkhole. From the goes through a tight squeeze into a is close to the reported location of 2000 southernmost house in El Cielo shown small room. The cave has many large

87 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

formations, many with roots hanging Cielo toward San Pablo. There is a small northeast of number 91. from them. pit 3 meters deep at the southeast side Walk-in entrance to a passage that 78. Cueva de Julilo. Ten meters east of the road 200 meters west-northwest slopes down 60 meters to a crawlway of the main road, 0.5 kilometers south- of Sótano de Ladrones. end. east of Julilo, in a sink 10 meters in di- The main entrance is 4 by 2.5 meters. 82. Sótano de Manuel. On a hillside ameter. There is a small entrance 4 meters away. east of the main road, 0.8 kilometers The entrance is 6 meters wide and 3 The entrance pit is 25 meters deep and northwest of El Cielo; 200 meters south- high. The sloping passage 12 meters blind, with the second entrance as a east of number 66. wide goes 50 meters to a 5-meter, blind skylight. Ten meters down, you can A pit 10 by 7 meters at the top and climb down. A side passage goes 12 swing into a parallel, 27-meter pit, 5 34 meters deep. meters to a small room. meters wide at the bottom. 83. Sótano de Mariana. North-north- 79. Sótano de Ladrones. One hun- 81. Cueva Madriguera del Oso west 3.5 kilometers from Canoas, just dred meters south-southeast of the (Bear Den Cave). Slightly west and 4.7 north of a main trail going downhill. road 0.6 kilometers southwest of El kilometers north of Julilo; 150 meters Number 117 is 200 meters northeast, on

88 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 the same trail. 86. Sótano de Muchos Insectos. On 91. Cueva de Ninfa del Bosque The entrance pit drops about 10 the west side of the road 3.9 kilometers (Wood Nymph Cave). Slightly west meters into a chamber 15 by 6 meters northwest of Julilo, 7 meters from it. and 4.6 kilometers north of Julilo; 150 with a 2.5-meter-tall flowstone mound. Slightly east and 2 kilometers south of meters southwest of number 81. The drop continues down a flowstone Candas. Walk-in entrance 2.5 meters wide slope and a small pit 1 meter in diam- The entrance pit is 8 meters across and 3 meters high leads to 25-meter- eter to a total depth of 26 meters. At and 28 meters deep, with a major ledge long passage sloping downward 5 the bottom a passage 6 meters tall and at 23 meters. A rubble slope leads about meters to chamber 1.2 meters high at 5 meters wide goes 20 meters one way 25 meters to a dome 6 meters in diam- end. Two other crawlway entrances. and 30 the other. It contains several eter and 10 meters high. 92. Sótano de Ojos de Aguila. Four large columns, lots of guano, and no 87. Cueva del Murcielago Atacante. meters above (south of) road, 9.3 kilo- airflow. Visible in an arroyo, 10 meters south meters from junction of El Cielo and 84. Joya de la Mina Barita. Slightly of the road up the mountain to Julilo; Joya de Salas roads at Julilo; 7.5 kilo- north and 2.1 kilometers east of Julilo. 2.1 kilometers southeast of Julilo. meters north-northwest of Julilo. About 1 kilometer north of the road up The 21.6-meter pit has an entrance 1 From an entrance 10 by 4 meters, a the mountain to Julilo, 50 meters below meter wide and long. A short passage pit drops 26 meters. A second pit is 5 a side road that takes off from a curve at the bottom leads to a narrow, 10- meters deep. at the 1100-meter contour. The side meter-high dome containing bats. 98. Sótano de Plan. Plan is about 300 road leads to a barite mine. 88. Sótano de Musgo de Arbol. One meters past San Pablo on the road. Just The entrance is 100 meters in diam- kilometer southwest of San Pablo and before the road enters a large cultivated eter and very undercut at the rig point, 100 meters north-northwest of number area, there is a major trail to the right. which gives a 44.5-meter drop. There 62. Follow it about 50 meters, then go left are large trees and ferns on the bottom, The pit drops 21 meters from an en- about 15 meters. The cave is 1.4 kilo- and large formations under the over- trance 1.2 meters in diameter to a bot- meters southwest of El Cielo. hang. tom 4 meters across. Pit opening is triangular, about 5

89 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 meters on a side. The 23-meter drop has side to 35 meters on the low. There are sink, and the cave is 30 to 40 meters plenty of rockfall. Possible dig in small many formations and a long break- north of the trail near the lowest point room at the bottom, but no airflow. down slope to a total depth of 55 in the sink. 99. Sotanito de Plan. Right next to meters. The entrance is a 3-meter-diameter the road on the west side, after the road 112. Cueva de Timas. Northwest 2.6 hole in the hillside. The floor slopes crosses the field and reenters the woods kilometers from Canoas, 15 meters steeply down 5 meters to a 10-meter (see number 98). Slightly west and 1.4 north of the main road to Joya de Salas, drop into a room 10 meters wide that kilometers south of El Cielo. and 3 meters east of a major trail head- has a few holes in the floor that go Entrance to 14-meter pit is 2 meters ing northward from the road. down another meter or so. No leads or in diameter. There is a ledge 8 meters The entrance is 1 by 2 meters at the airflow. down. Small room at the bottom, and bottom of a sink 12 meters across. A 2.5- 119. Cueva de Carrera. There is an an alcove with a parallel dome. meter climb down leads to 7 meters of open field with a water tank 11.4 kilo- 100. Cueva de la Polilla. On the walking passage to a small alcove with meters north of the road junction in northeast side of Cañón de Diablo, 1 a narrow chute sloping down 3 meters Julilo. The cave is in a sinkhole 40 kilometer southwest of San Pablo. vertically to a 6-meter pit. The room at meters long, 20 wide, and 25 deep, 1.4 Lower in the same sink as the second the bottom, 6 meters tall and 5 meters kilometers northwest of the field. The entrance to number 62. wide, is the end of the cave. trail to the cave leaves the road 150 The entrance is 4 meters wide and 2 114. Sótano de los Tres Ojos Verdes. meters north of the field. meters high. The passage slopes down About 1.5 kilometers north of Julilo, 0.5 A 6-by-6-meter entrance leads to an to a small hole around a flowstone kilometers northeast of the junction of entrance room 20 meters wide that plug. Ahead, a 5-meter climb down the main Joya de Salas road with the slopes downward for 40 meters, to leads to a room 10 meters across. A side north-south road. In an obscure 4-by- where a 4-meter-long passage goes passage goes 10 meters before becom- 5-meter sink surrounded by karst pin- through a tight crawl into a 12-meter- ing too tight. nacles. long room. 106. Sótano de San Pablo. Two hun- There are three openings in the top 120. Sótano de Cigarro. East 20 dred meters from the road to the east of the 35-meter entrance drop into a meters from the road north out of Julilo, from San Pablo, and at a bearing of 150 large, decorated canyon. Down-slope 2.4 kilometers from the junction there. degrees from the first houses on the 9 meters is the top of a 130-meter pit South 300 meters from an abandoned right in San Pablo, in a flat area; 0.85 with massive formations all the way logging camp shown on the topo map, kilometers southwest of El Cielo. down and a large room at the bottom. and 50 meters south of a junction with The top of the pit is 20 by 7 meters. There is an article on the exploration an old logging road that heads east. From a rigging point on the southeast, of the cave, with a map, in AMCS Ac- From a 1-by-1-meter entrance, a pit the 79-meter drop is free after the first tivities Newsletter 22, pp. 114–116. drops 35 meters, passing a major ledge 40 meters. A beautiful pit into a deco- 115. Sótano Trogon. In a shallow sink 6 meters above the floor. From the bot- rated room 30 by 40 meters that slopes 100 meters from a logging road. tom, which is 2 by 2 meters, a too-tight down to a depth of about 85 meters. No Entrance is 2.5 by 1.5 meters. From crack goes down at least another 10 promising leads. a rig on the uphill side, the drop is 22.2 meters. 108. Sótano de Santa Maria. This meters sheer to a ledge and slope to the 121. Cueva de la Cima de San José. cave was reported in AMCS Bulletin 1, bottom at 39 meters. There are no leads. Near the top of a hill above the town of Caves of the Inter-American Highway, p. 117. Cueva de Zellner. North-north- San José, about 1 kilometer west of the 51. It is 7 meters south of the road, 3.2 west 3.6 kilometers from Canoas, 8 village and 200 meters higher. An aban- kilometers east-southeast of Julilo. meters south of a major trail. Number doned logging road can be followed The 15-by-6-meter entrance allows 83 is 200 meters southwest along the from the town halfway to the cave, and rappels of from 41 meters on the high same trail. a rock-lined path leads the rest of the The entrance passage is 0.8 way. Sign warns that permission must meters wide and 0.7 meters high be obtained to enter. and slopes down 1.5 meters to a The entrance is a 7-meter-high, 3- crawlway 12 meters long. A meter-wide hole at the base of a rocky small hole in the floor leads cliff. A path leads down a steep, rocky down to a dirt-floored room 10 slope 15 meters to the floor of the first meters in diameter. A walking large room, about 25 meters in diam- passage slopes down 3 meters eter and 10 meters high, with large to a short passage 6 meters tall draperies and flowstone mounds cov- and wide that ends in dirt fill. ering the walls and floor. At the far end, 118. Sótano sin Bichos (Bug- a flowstone mound 15 meters high and Free Pit). Near the bottom of a 10 meters in diameter has dammed up large, 500-meter-long sink be- a pool 7 meters long, 5 meters wide, low and 1 kilometer east of the and at least 1 meter deep. One can abandoned village of El Indio. climb a flowstone wall above the pool An old logging road, now burro for a very nice view of the whole en- trail, runs east-west through the trance area.

90 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Climbing over the large flowstone scary climbs on flowstone must be same open field, in a sink 10 by 8 meters mound discloses that the entrance made to get to the end. Another brief and 10 meters deep. room is just the upper end of a much description of this cave appeared in A 10-meter climb down into the sink longer chamber that slopes down at a “Mexico News” in AMCS Activities leads to a passage 10 meters wide and 30-degree angle for another hundred Newsletter 18, p. 16. 6 meters high that slopes downward meters or so, retaining its height and 126. Sótano de Jabalies. One meter for 50 meters. Halfway down, on the width the whole way. The slope is slip- northeast of the road going north out right, is a 10-meter-long side passage. pery, but can be free-climbed by cling- of Julilo, 6.0 kilometers from the junc- 131.Cueva Parade de Descansar. ing to formations. A 5-meter difficult tion there. North 11.1 kilometers from the junction climb at the bottom of the slope leads From its 1.2-by-1-meter entrance, at Julilo, 60 meters east of the road. A to the muddy floor of the final room, 6 the pit drops 16 meters. From the bot- trail leads to the cave. meters in diameter. tom of the rope, the cave slopes down A large shelter cave 50 meters across About halfway down the main another 10 meters. A short crawl goes and 15 meters high, with 50 meters of slope, a large ledge leads to a side pas- to a room that can also be reached by a mazy passages at various levels. The sage 7 meters high, 5 meters wide, and climb over a formation higher up. cave is used as a camping spot by lo- at least 15 meters long. This passage is 128. Cueva de Mono. Near number cals who come to gather palms. also heavily decorated, and several 119, 0.8 kilometers northwest of the 132. Sótano de Queso Grande. Two

91 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

high and 3 meters wide, and af- look more like a shelter than a real cave. ter 60 meters, including 25 In the west wall of the room a 2-meter- meters of down-climbs, an 11- diameter opening leads to a sinuous meter pit drops into a room, canyon 1.5 meters wide and about 15 from which a 3-meter climb meters long. A crack in the floor of this down leads to 30 meters of pas- passage drops a dusty 5 meters to a dry, sage ending in low crawl. There dead-end floor. In the southern end of are 50 meters of upper-level pas- the entrance room are some old, dry sage above the crawl. The cave flowstone mounds and a floor of dirt has good airflow, but it is lost and silt. From this thick layer of dirt, somewhere before the end. our local guide had dug the remains of a human burial some time before. The meters north of the road north out of Llera de Canales Quadrangle leg and arm bones and part of a skull Julilo, 7.2 kilometers from the junction were easily identified, but no artifacts there. At the top of a ridge, just as the 124. Grieta Desesperada. On the were noted and no attempt was made road crests it. north side of a large double sinkhole to investigate further. From entrance 1 by 0.3 meters, the 300 meters east of the road 22.5 kilo- 130. Cueva del Papecido. Visible entrance pit drops 5 meters to a ledge, meters north from the junction at Julilo. from an abandoned logging road that from which a second pit goes 8 meters The walk-in entrance is 4 meters runs along the east side of Arroyo los to the bottom, 6 by 4 meters with a flow- wide and 2.5 meters high, and the pas- Tinajeros, which runs past El Refugio, stone wall. sage slopes downward for 8 meters to in a 10-meter bluff just west of the ar- 134. Sótano Reencontrado. East- a passage that goes right 2.5 meters to royo; 1 kilometer north of El Refugio. northeast 600 meters from the road a 2-meter climb down to the lip of an A walking passage with some break- north out of Julilo, 10.5 kilometers from 11-meter pit. The pit drops into a cham- down extends straight into the hillside the junction there; 750 meters southeast ber 6 by 9 meters in size. From there, a for 16 meters. The cave continues 15 or of number 137. About 40 meters in el- 4-meter-diameter passage goes down 20 meters as a hands-and-knees crawl, evation below the road. another 2 meters, and 30 meters of pas- bending around to the right to where Blind pit 16 meters deep, 2 by 2.5 sage leads to a 20-meter pit with a dirt it emerges on the hillside a little above meters at the top and 1.5 by 5 meters at floor and no leads. and to the north of the main entrance. the bottom. 127. Cueva de Leo. East 800 meters Less than 10 meters inside the main en- 137. Pozo de Vapor. North 10.8 kilo- from the northern road, and 1.4 kilo- trance, there is a tiny alcove in the north meters from the road junction at Julilo. meters southeast of number 136. wall containing some broken pottery, Four meters southwest of a trail that The entrance is 1 meter square in a smooth, spherical, unadorned, and just loops from the main road, 30 meters vertical-walled sink 3 meters deep. The out of reach. At least two high leads in down the trail. walking passage goes back 15 meters, this part of the cave were not pushed. The entrance pit is 3 by 2.5 meters at and there is a 3-meter side passage. The the top and 41 meters deep. The bot- back half of the cave contained roughly Ocampo Quadrangle tom is 10 by 3 meters, and passage goes thirty bats. 3 meters to a 5-meter pit, at the bottom 136. Sótano Ultimo. North 22.4 kilo- 41. Cueva de Graciano. Follow the of which is a room 3 meters across. meters from the junction at Julilo, 10 road south out of El Refugio, a village 139. Cueva de Carmen. Near the top meters northeast of the road. that no longer exists, about 1000 meters of a ridge on the east side of the valley The pit is 2.5 by 2 meters at the top, to where a trail leads east 100 meters of Joya de Salas; 600 meters east- 3 by 2 meters at the bottom, and 22 to the sink 10 meters across and 9 northeast of number 25 and 90 meters meters deep. There are no leads. meters deep that contains the entrance; vertically above the valley floor. 3.5 kilometers northeast of El Paraiso. The entrance is 6 meters high and El Llano de Azuas Quadrangle The entrance is 10 meters high and wide. A walking passage goes back 30 15 meters wide and slopes downward meters to a 6-meter crawl to the end. 122. Cueva del Entierro. Located 1.2 to a 5-meter climb, below which there At the entrance, a 2-meter climb up to kilometers north of the village of El is second 5-meter climb down that the left leads to a small passage that Refugio, 60 meters above and 150 leads to 60 meters of walking passage, goes back 10 meters. meters west of Arroyo los Tinajeros, the at the end of which a climb goes down 140. Cueva de los Leones. In a sink large arroyo that runs past El Refugio, 2 meters to the end of the cave. 11 meters long, 5 wide, and 4 deep, on past number 125, and on toward El 123. Cueva Escalera de Raices. West the southeast side of the Joya de Salas Tigre. The cave is on a steep hillside 25 meters from the road from Manan- valley; 30 meters east of a dirt road and about 30 meters north of a shallow, tiales to El Refugio, 1.5 kilometers 10 meters southeast of a water pipe. steep ravine, directly above a 3-meter (along the road) from El Refugio. This Southeast 1.1 kilometers from number drop in the ravine. and number 133 are in small outcrops, 25. The 8-meter-wide entrance is 3 barely visible through foliage from the A steep talus slope leads down from meters high and leads to a chamber 3 road. an entrance 6 meters wide and 1.8 meters high, 15 meters wide, and only The entrance is a 4-meter-deep shaft, meters high. The passage is 8 meters 5 meters deep, which makes the cave 2 by 3 meters across, barely climbable

92 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 by using roots as a ladder on the south The entrance is 3 meters high and two smaller leads form a 30-meter loop. side. A 3-meter-wide, 2-meter-high pas- 10 wide and consists of two openings The cave is very dry and seems to sage goes 8 meters to a 5-meter climb separated by a rock pillar. Just inside have been silted up, as tips of stalac- down to a 2-meter-high, narrow pas- is the largest room in the cave, 7 meters tites are buried deep in the floor. There sage that goes 6 meters to the end. No wide and about 15 meters long, with a are quite a few names on the walls, and airflow, very dry. flat floor and heavily decorated ceiling most of the smaller formations have 125. Sótano de los Guacamayos. and walls. A passage in the back right been broken. There is no airflow any- Southwest 1.1 kilometers from the vil- corner goes as a hands-and-knees where in the cave. lage of El Refugio, just west of Arroyo crawl for 15 meters to a flowstone 138. Sótano de Ventana del Arroyo. los Tinajones. choke. An overgrown karst feature in the The entrance to this large pit is 30 To the left, a 1-meter-high, 3-meter- middle of Arroyo los Tinajeros, about meters wide by 60 meters long. The wide crawl goes for about 8 meters to 100 to 200 meters north of Sótano de drop is 140 meters to a bottom that is the second large room, 10 meters in Guacamayos. 50 by 65 meters. The discovery and ex- diameter and about 5 meters high. All The upper entrance is a 9-meter pit, ploration of the pit are described in the walls are copiously decorated by 2 meters wide at the top. At the bot- Association for Mexican Cave Studies very dry formations, and one can climb tom, the pit opens into a 3-meter-high, Newsletter, vol 5, no. 2–3, pp. 56–57, the guano-encrusted formations along 4-meter-wide opening back out to the from which the accompanying map is the back wall into a few alcoves that go arroyo. One side passage climbs up 4 reprinted. nowhere. On the right side of the room, meters. 129. Cueva Obscura. On the western edge of an overgrown field on a hill- side 120 meters above and 1 kilometer west-southwest of El Refugio, in trees about 15 meters from the clearing, in a shallow, rocky ravine. The entrance is 2 to 3 meters high and wide, but is nearly covered by boulders and appears to be several smaller entrances into the same room, which is 5 meters in diameter and has a steeply sloping floor. A high lead goes up another 7 meters to a flowstone- and spider-filled alcove. From the base of the slope, a hands-and-knees crawl goes 10 meters to a junction. Ahead ends in 5 meters, and to the left a diffi- cult, narrow 5-meter climb down reaches the lowest point in the cave, where it is too tight, although rocks rattle down another 3 meters. No other leads, and no airflow. 133. Cueva de las Raices. Northwest 20 meters from a road. See number 123. The entrance is a small hole less than 1 meter in diameter at the base of a natural rock wall 1.5 meters high. A 1.5- meter-diameter enlarged-joint passage goes 8 meters to a junction in a room 2 meters high. Left goes 6 meters to breakdown, and right does too. Near the junction, a body-size hole drops 2 meters to what looked like a too-tight hole, which was not pushed. No air- flow. Numerous roots dangle from the ceiling, hence the name Raices (roots). 135. Cueva de El Refugio. On a dry, forested hillside, 40 vertical meters above the logging road from El Refugio to Manantiales. A faint trail leads from the road up to the cave, which is roughly 500 meters from El Refugio.

93 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Loma Alta Quadrangle meters of passage goes to a junction. above streambed. Straight ahead is a large river 10 meters The lower entrance is 5 meters wide 3. Bee Cave. At about 1.5 kilometers, wide and 4 to 15 meters deep, with a and 1 high. A second entrance, above the road from Moctezuma goes across strong current flowing into a sump. the first, is 5 by 5 meters. The passages a wide valley and then approaches a From the junction, a climb up leads to join within 5 meters into a passage hill. Follow the road for about 250 a large passage that goes to a room with about 6 by 6 meters. Thirty meters in- meters, to where the pit is about 150 a lake. A crawlway was pushed for 50 side there is a 5-meter pit, followed by meters north of the road at the edge of meters, but not to its end. A mapping a climb back up. After 100 meters, the jungle. trip into the cave is described in AMCS main passage splits. To the right is a 4- The entrance is 40 meters long and Activities Newsletter 11, p. 22. The map meter climbdown, a crawl, and then a 30 meters wide. Rigging on the high appears in the blind fish project article 10-meter pit. To the left is a pit about side, to the west, gives a free drop, elsewhere in this issue. 40 meters deep that was descended in measured at 74 meters. The passage at 12. Cueva de Coahuila. At the base 1980 into very bad air, but with a re- the bottom is large and floods in wet of 150-meter-high cliffs. Follow trail up ported additional muddy pit below weather. The cave is described more canyon past number 4; after 1 to 2 kilo- (see AMCS Activities Newsletter 11, p. thoroughly in AMCS Bulletin 1, Caves meters, the trail is on the left side of a 22). of the Inter-American Highway, p. 53. creekbed. The creek will gain 300 44. Cueva y Sótano San Rafael. Ver- 4. Sótano de Caballo Moro. Shown meters in elevation to the base of the tically 80 meters above the village of as a flat area 3.9 kilometers north of the cliff. From number 4, 2.7 kilometers San Rafael; above and slightly south of village of Coahuila on the topo map northwest; from village of Coahuila, 6.5 the spring. and marked Dolina Caballo Moro. kilometers north-northwest. A 15-meter-long cave, walking and North 500 meters and 85 meters higher Entrance is 25 meters wide and 20 dusty, has a 5-by-3-meter entrance at than number 28. meters high. The cave is one large room the edge of an 18-meter pit. The top of The pit entrance is 150 meters long 75 meters across and 25 meters high, the pit is 25 meters long and 10 meters and 100 meters wide. The north side with nice formations. wide, crossed by a natural bridge. The can be rigged for a 146-meter drop. The 28. Cueva de los Misioneros. Slightly bottom is about 20 meters long, with south side has been descended down a west and 2.7 kilometers north of village about 30 meters of passages. slope to the top of a 49-meter drop. At of Coahuila; south of and below num- the bottom is a large, deep lake. Thirty ber 4. On east side of valley, 6 meters

Espeleólogos del sureste de los Estados Unidos hicieron varios viajes a la Sierra de Guatemala, Tamaulipas, para buscar cuevas. Se describen y ubican las cavidades conocidas en el área. El Sótano de la Joya de Salas se conoce desde hace muchos años, y sigue siendo el más profundo del área.

94 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

RECENT FIELD INVESTIGATIONS OF BLIND ASTYANAX

Jean Krejca

he Mexican blind tetra, genus vice versa showed that the loss of der. The next morning in Ciudad TAstyanax, is the most-studied the eye is actually a gain in func- Victoria we met Francisco (Paco) species of troglobite. One of the tion of a gene called sonic hedge- Garcia de Leon, a professor at the reasons it is so interesting to cave hog, a gene that inhibits eye growth. Instituto Technológico in Victoria, biologists is that it can still inter- It appears, then, that selection is and Horst Wilkins and Ulrike from breed with its fully eyed and pig- actually favoring the loss of eyes, Germany. The research is a collabo- mented surface ancestor, which which is a gain in caves due to the ration between Victoria Tec, the occupies streams in Mexico and energy required to create and main- University of Hamburg, and the parts of Texas. They make excellent tain them. University of Texas at Austin. laboratory organisms, because they The following reports cover two Early the next morning three Tec are hardy and breed easily in cap- separate trips that had the objective students joined us, Aldo Guevara tivity, as evidenced by their popu- of collecting specimens of Astyanax and Fernando Vanoge Eligio, who larity in the pet trade. Earlier work that occur in places where both had been on previous caving expe- on these fish showed that there have eyed and eyeless populations are in ditions of the Proyecto Espeleo- been at least four independent cave the same cave. These specimens will lógico Purificación and our Blind invasions by this species, meaning be used for population-genetics Cat Research Team, and Lizeth that on at least four occasions sur- work that will examine the persis- Martínez Garcia, a new caver. Af- face fish entered caves and became tence of polymorphisms that are ter finding a hotel in Mante, we set cave-adapted. Each time, a differ- presumably in the same population, out for our first destination, Sótano ent evolutionary path was taken to since they are in the same cave. de Caballo Moro, Tamaulipas. We develop troglomorphic characteris- arrived in the small town of Coa- tics, such as eyelessness, loss of pig- n October 19, 2000, Vivian huila, about 9 kilometers northeast ment, an increase in the number of OLoftin and I met Jaime More- of Ocampo, which is the closest you “taste buds” in and around the no, a.k.a. James Brown, roving cave can drive to the cave. After about mouth, and a decrease in the num- bum currently from Seattle, at the an hour of hiking with two guides, ber and increase in the size of eggs. Austin airport and left for the bor- when we were good and deep into This makes, of course, an excellent natural experiment for evolution- ary biologists to test hypotheses about the process of natural selec- tion. One particular question that has been debated among cave biolo- gists is whether selective acts underground in favor of the loss of characteristics such as eyes and or there is simply ge- netic drift from random mutations that causes loss of these things in caves, where there is no selective pressure for keeping them. Recent work using transplants of lens tis- sues from eyed to eyeless fish and Hybrid and blind fish. Jean Krejca.

95 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

96 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 abundant cactus in a steep-walled and material to construct valley where the GPS wouldn’t traps. The traps, cut from work, the guides admitted that they plastic bottles and baited had never been to the doline. So we with meat, proved effective all split up and hiked up the hill- for Speocirolana isopods, but side to find it. I managed to reach a not fish, which were caught saddle where I caught a glimpse of by seining. We noticed that a suspicious-looking arroyo, which the water level had drop- ran into the one we’d been in, but ped 2 meters since the day much farther upstream. After some before, and occasionally hours, we regrouped, and the four strange loud noises would of us, minus Paco, who had gone emanate from the far end of into town for stitches where sharp the pool, perhaps resulting limestone had sliced his hand, from the draining of the hiked upstream to the place I had cave. We returned to town seen. We were rewarded by finally barely before dawn in a tor- finding the edge of the sinkhole at rential downpour. We spent sunset. There was a roar from the the next afternoon seining in waterfall entering the cave and a local creeks for surface Asty- racket from parakeets at the en- anax. trance. Our final goal was to get On October 21, having seen that samples of eyed and eyeless we were up against an extremely fish from Sótano de Yerba- steep-sided and deep doline, we niz, San Luis Potosí. Our packed up all our rope and headed day on October 24 began out at an early hour. We chopped, with the discovery that a Horst and Ulrike sorting fish. waded, and wrestled our way large bee hive was directly through thick brush to a rigging under the ideal natural an- Jean Krejca. point at the south end, where we chor for the entrance drop, so we second drop, left someone there rigged 90 meters of rope on three rigged as far as possible from there. with every scrap of material we drops, largely in a waterfall, finally This put us on a large ledge, where had, and did a pulldown rappel so reaching the cave entrance. This a rebelay made the rope too short we could use that rope on the third entrance is remote, extremely sce- to reach the bottom. So we reluc- drop. At the bottom, Aldo and I nic, and dangerous. From deep in tantly used our rope for the second found extremely abundant eyeless an enormous doline you can look drop to reach the upper level of the Astyanax in two pools at the bottom. up to see an impressive, dripping cave. We found surface cathedral-like overhang that frames Astyanax in small pools in Vivian at Caballo Moro. Jean Krejca. the dark cave entrance, where a the mazy passages at this layer of mist hangs in the darkness. level. After some searching, In the other direction is a three-level we found a good way down waterfall over travertine that feeds to the second level and used the cave. In every direction are our third-level rope to get steep walls from which we saw there. Paco and Aldo did three spontaneous rock falls in two some seining on the second days. level and came up with Only two of us reached the bot- some Tilapia, an invasive tom that day. Despite lots of surface species, as well as Astyanax. evidence of flooding from the worst This is the first Tilapia found hurricane in twenty-five years, in a cave, as far as we know, there was dry ground to land on at and there is some sugges- the bottom, where a large break- tion that the two fish are down pile slopes down to a pool competing there. We seined with a swift current. The visibility and used dip nets to catch in the water was poor, but I never- eyed Astyanax and Speociro- theless managed to net two fish in lana isopods at this level, but the time it took Viv to ascend. the fish were not eyeless, so On the twenty-second, having the search was on for the determined that collecting was pos- way down to the third level, sible, we returned with the big a flowstone-covered ledge guns. Aldo, Fernando, and Jaime over a gaping black maw. I joined us and brought down a seine returned to the top of the

97 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

98 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

walled 68-meter pit. Blind fishing, Justin was collecting terres- Astyanax were collected in trial fauna in the upper-level pas- pools between 10 and 100 sage. meters into the cave. We On January 9, we rigged Yerbaniz traveled through approxi- off of a large block that is lodged mately another 500 meters above the deepest part of the en- of the cave, seeing some trance drop. This allowed for a noteworthy troglobitic nearly free rappel all the way to the fauna, including harvest- first level. A cursory look found no men, two terrestrial species surface fish here, so we proceeded of isopod and Speocirolana, quickly to the next level, where both Thysanura insects, and spi- Tilapia and surface Astyanax were ders. A recently deceased found. Between the second and coral snake was curled up in third levels we ran into a bunch of the middle of a pile of break- Speocirolana isopods in the small down. pools in the flowstone. Finally, at The next morning, we the first pool in the deepest level, drove to Ciudad Valles, then we ran into hybrid Astyanax and a went searching for Sótano whole lot of blind ones. I estimated del Toro, San Luis Potosí. An fifteen hundred fish in the top foot escort led us down a series of water in the pool, which was of two-track roads, past a about 10 by 30 meters in area. The small dammed stock pond, visibility was too poor to see any and to within 30 meters of deeper into the water. Other notable the cave entrance. Locals re- troglobitic fauna were Hoplobunus Justin on rope at the entrance to ferred to the cave as Sótano harvestmen and a schizomid. Sótano de Yerbaniz. de Juan Blanco. There we On January 10, we went to Cueva Jean Krejca and Vivian Loftin. collected nine Astyanax, of de la Curva, San Luis Potosí. Fol- which two had small eyes lowing the railroad to the curve, we One right at the bottom of the rope and some pigment, including a tail dropped down into the valley to see was full of tiny fish, and a pool spot, one had very tiny rudimentary the impressive array of colorful some 15 by 30 meters in size on the eyes and no pigment, and the rest graffiti at the entrance. We made other side of the room had fish of lacked pigment and eyes entirely. our way downstream in search of many sizes. This may be the first record of hy- water, walking, stooping, crawling, It was a successful trip, with col- brids at this site. It would be inter- belly-crawling . . . . Not much wa- lections of eyed and eyeless Asty- esting to return here with a mask ter was to be found, but in the small anax from a couple of the more dif- to check the underwater potential pools we came up with several ficult sites where they are known. here. The water-filled joint is about blind Astyanax and Speocirolana iso- 1 meters wide and 1 or 2 meters pods. At the back of the cave, we n January 2002, four of us long. While several of us were could hear a train roaring overhead. Iboarded a fifteen-passenger van in Austin, Texas, and made our way to Ciudad Mante. Richard Borow- sky was leading the trip, with Vivian Loftin, Justin Shaw, and me as the faithful fish-catchers. We stayed at the Los Arcos hotel in Mante, which was 135 pesos per night with a good supply of hot water in the shower. The rooms smelled kinda funny, though, so I can’t be sure how good the deal was. On January 7, after a bit of dis- cussion with nearby residents, we were escorted through orange fields and prickly pear to beautiful Sótano del Molino, Tamaulipas, a sheer- Jean and Justin hunting fish in Cueva del Río Subterráneo. Vivian Loftin.

99 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Viv watched the face-sized fishing spiders cringe when blasts went off at the nearby quarry. A good-sized arroyo is captured by the entrance to Cueva del Río El pez ciego mexicano Astyanax ha sido Subterráneo, San Luis Potosí. On estudiados por biólogos, puesto que es January 11 we collected fish from capaz de reproducirse con sus parientes the pool 10 meters in, cichlids, superficiales. Se visitaron cuevas en la mollies, and both eyed and blind Sierra de El Abra, Tamaulipas y San Luis Astyanax. We traversed the entire cave, including a 3-meter climb- Potosí, para colectar especímenes para down where we rigged a handline. realizar estudios genéticos sobre la It’s an excellent cave with big stream evolución de los peces troglobios. passage and a few swims. The next day, on the way home, we collected at several surface streams to obtain eyed specimens for comparative work.

100 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

THE LONG CRAWL

Terri Treacy

re you okay?” Pat and Laura the floor. As I was falling into that covered with a shirt and protected Acalled out in unison as they lower tube, I had a vivid cartoonish by a vinyl survey-book bag. After peered down into the little tube I vision of falling forever through an the bag was securely taped on with had just fallen into. endless series of tubes, down, adhesive tape from our kit “No, I’m not . . . I hurt my ankle . . . I down, down. But reality quickly and I had swallowed a few aspirins, think it’s serious.” returned when my fall was stopped we were ready for the long journey We had completed our first sur- by another floor. back to camp. vey shot of the day only moments I knew immediately that some- Maneuvering through the Confu- before. It was December 21, 2001, thing bad had happened to my sion Tubes went smoothly. I quickly the first day of a week-long explo- ankle, but I was feeling really lucky learned how to move without let- ration-and-survey camp in Sistema that it was an ankle, not my back or ting my foot bump the floor or walls Purificación, Tamaulipas. The day head or femur. I would be all right, or other obstacles. What concerned before, while Bill (Carlos) Nasby and I would be able to get out un- me most at the moment was think- stayed above ground guarding our der my own power. Pat scrambled ing about the 14-meter drop that lay vehicles, Dale Chase, Rob Garrett, back down the drop, and he and ahead. Normally an exposed but Barbara Luke, Erin Lynch, Laura Laura began asking me all the right easy climb down 10 meters to a nar- Rosales, Charley Savvas, Pat Shaw, questions to assess the extent of my row ledge 4 meters off the floor, I Peter Sprouse, and I set up camp at injuries. When we were all satisfied knew there was no way I could ne- Camp I, about 500 meters inside the I could safely move, they suggested gotiate it all with only one foot. For- Infiernillo entrance. Today we set I climb out of the small tube I had tunately, Pat and Laura each had a off as three teams to explore three landed in so that Pat could look at length of webbing in their packs. Pat of the hundreds of leads in the Con- the ankle. I had already removed tied the webbing around my waist fusion Tubes. my boot and noticed that the ankle and climbed down ahead to spot Pat, Laura, and I arrived at our and foot had begun to . I sud- me, while Laura belayed from the tube assignment, the Chimichanga denly experienced a wave of intense top. While I rested and waited in a Tube, about 900 meters from camp nausea, for which Laura gave me a secure spot halfway down, Pat and began to survey at a four-way date to eat. She assured me it would rigged the webbing for the remain- junction. Our lead was, we found help, and it did. ing few meters of the drop, and I out later, the most obvious passage Since it had not been a very long was able to use it for a body rappel. taking off straight ahead. It pro- time since the others had dropped I was very anxious and nervous duced quite a bit of survey later in us off at our lead, I suggested that during this whole procedure, but the trip. But we thought our lead Pat and Laura attempt to find them. Pat remained steadfast in assuring was a small tube taking off a few It didn’t take them long to decide me that everything would be just meters above the floor, Pat climbed that trying to find them in the in- fine. And indeed it was. up into it, and we made our first credible, immense maze of tubes Safely on the bottom, it was time survey shot. As Laura sketched, I was futile, and they soon returned. for a rest and more aspirin. Ahead began the climb up the wall. I re- While they were gone, I decided of us we knew that we were sup- call the wall being very smooth, that I could get back to camp if my posed to take a small passage to the with few options for hand or foot ankle was wrapped with adequate left, or we would end up going in holds. About halfway up the climb, protection. I told Pat that I would the wrong direction, into the D Sur- the hold I chose for my left hand like to have my ankle wrapped with vey. On the way in, Peter had peeled off the wall, and I went as much padding as possible. We pointed out the landmark for the down. After first hitting the floor inventoried the contents of our correct passage, a large boulder where I had begun the climb, I con- packs and came up with a soft splint with some reflective tape on it. But tinued to fall into a small tube in of two strategically tied bandanas before reaching the correct turn we

101 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 found a similar spot and proceeded he controlled the descent down the wrong passage. It wasn’t remarkably well, and I was long before I knew we had made a able to carefully roll off his mistake. I was getting pretty tired, back to the safety of the so I asked my companions to let me floor. rest and to check ahead to see if they As I sat on that silty could figure out where we should floor, I felt sure we had go. They came back with a happy gone the wrong direction, report of footprints and familiar- so again I asked for a break looking passage. Off we went, and while my heroes went ahead indeed the passage did look famil- to check the way. Each time iar, because we had looped back I took a rest, Laura encour- into the passage we had come aged me to eat something through on the way in. The prob- and drink water. Soon, lem was, we then followed that pas- Laura came back and excit- sage the wrong way, back into the edly exclaimed she had cave, right past the junction with the found a survey station, reflective tape on the rock without D10. We’d gone a long way recognizing it. Rather than turn the wrong way. I was too right at that junction, we turned left nervous about falling to al- and ended up going off into the D low Pat to piggyback me Survey, with its characteristic sharp, again, so my friends pa- dusty, silt-covered breakdown. It tiently stood by as I crawled should have dawned on me right or scooted my way through away that we had gone wrong, but the passage. After crawling Pat Shaw carrying Terri in the I guess I was distracted. It was back out of the D Survey, East Loop. Peter Sprouse. somewhere along here, where the I asked for another rest floor was fairly level, that Pat con- break and another recon. Laura heard voices, including Peter ask- vinced me to let him carry me piggy- cheerfully obliged and came back a ing, “How y’all doing?” I felt such back. That went well until he trip- short while later exclaiming that she relief at that point. I don’t think it ped and down we went. Fortunately, had found a pit. After a bit of de- would have gone well if I hadn’t briefing, I realized that this had the extra help at this juncture. Dale Chase and Terri Treacy at was the drop they had belayed Before long we were all back in me down earlier. It became camp, me after eight-plus hours of a short climb. Peter Sprouse. clear to me where we had gone crawling and scooting. Almost ev- wrong, and it was just a mat- eryone was hopeful that I had suf- ter of finding the rock with the fered a bad sprain and by morning tape. Eventually we were back would be feeling better. I was du- on the slow and arduous cor- bious, but I didn’t let on. As Char- rect track to camp. ley examined and re-splinted my Although it took consider- ankle, a lively discussion ensued as able concentration to move to which of the stronger pain kill- without further injuring my ers we had in camp I could safely ankle, my thoughts often drift- take on top of the ten or twelve as- ed to the next obstacle, the pirins I had taken during the day. Jump Rock. As we got closer Charley made the call that I should to it, I tried to convince Pat to leave the cave the next day and seek let me wait while he went back medical attention. My camp mate, to camp to retrieve a rope and Barbara, took over Laura’s feminine some gear so I could rappel. nurturing, making sure I had every- Pat, however, with his never- thing I needed, and was incred- ending optimism, felt confi- ibly patient with my restlessness dent that he could get me throughout the night. down the drop and thought it would be better to keep mov- y mid-morning the next day, ing. So I concentrated on will- Bmy belongings had been pack- ing the others to come along ed up for me, decisions had been so I would have more spotters. made as to who would accompany I had started to nervously me out of the cave, and we were make my way down to where ready to set off for the entrance. the climb gets tricky when we However, as I attempted to move

102 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

about, the stronger pain medicine I accident, we arrived at a Browns- installed and I was sent home for had taken during the night caused ville, Texas, emergency room. Al- three more days to await surgery. nausea and shakiness. I had to lie though I was not optimistic that it Everyone was so great in helping down and let the effects wear off was just a sprain, I really thought me out. I just can’t thank them before I felt steady enough to ne- they would slap a cast on my leg enough. The whole crew was in- gotiate the numerous little climbs and I would be able to go back to credibly understanding, patient, and scrambles ahead of me. Mexico and recuperate in the moun- and competent. I am especially The trip to the entrance took only tains. So it was big disappointment grateful to Peter for driving me all about an hour and a half. The con- when I was told that I had broken the way to Austin (he literally figuration of the passage is such my tibia and fibula and that surgery, turned around and returned to that I was able to propel myself involving plates and screws, was Infiernillo as soon as I and my be- along by leaning on waist-high going to be required. longings were out of his truck), and rocks with my hands or hip and I really didn’t want to have this to Jubal Grubb and Laura for get- swinging my bad leg forward, procedure done in Brownsville, ting me to the Austin airport. But which actually went quite quickly. where I would be alone and strand- my biggest thank-you has to go to The 30-meter entrance rappel was ed afterward, so I opted for a tem- Jim, who took care of me, waiting easy, and now all that lay ahead was porary splint, a ride to Austin the on me hand and foot, for two negotiating the huge boulders in the next day, and a flight the day after months. arroyo. Pat and Rob took turns pro- that to St. Louis, where Jim Rode- My main regret about the whole viding knee and back ladders where maker picked me up for the drive incident? Why the hell did it have needed. Peter went ahead, and he to the Carbondale, Illinois, hospi- to happen on the first day of a three- and Carlos managed to get the truck tal. By this time it was Christmas week trip? a bit closer to the arroyo. When I Eve, so a second temporary cast was reached the road, I allowed Pat to piggyback me to the truck, where Durante un viaje de topografía a los Tubos de Confusión, en la Carlos presented me with crutches porción de Infiernillo del Sistema Purificación, Tamaulipas, Terri he had fashioned out of small tree limbs. Treacy se cayó y se fracturó el tobillo. Se arrastro más de 900 Laura, Peter, and I set off for the metros de regreso al campamento subterráneo, y al día siguiente border. It was a very long and pain- se arrastró otros 500 metros hasta la entrada, desde donde se le ful ride down the bumpy mountain ayudó a bajar al cañón y de allí a los vehículo. Llegó al hospital road to the highway. By midnight, treinta y dos horas después del accidente. about thirty-two hours after the

103 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

THE BLACK HOLE OF COAHUILA

Peter Sprouse

ook at that!” Leonard put his We assembled into a caravan and Not far in, we spotted an entrance LCessna into a steep bank so we headed south toward Torreón. Be- on the south side and hiked up to could peer straight down into the fore we left the Cuatro Ciénegas it. It had a burned ceiling and vari- black hole that had just appeared in valley, we stopped for a swim in the ous minor artifacts and faint picto- the desert scrub. This was to be one enchanting pool called Pozo Chu- graphs. Scout found an arrowhead of the last flights of the summer rince, a sort of Caribbean experi- nearby. Then we went up the side 1999 outing of the Oztotl Flying ence in the desert. The Cuatro of the canyon to the top of the mesa, Club, and we had hit pay dirt. Ciénegas valley contains thousands where the walking was easy. After Leonard Pruitt, Laura Rosales, Aldo of geothermal springs and lakes, a 4-kilometer hike, we spotted the Guevara, Brian McMillan, Cathy and has more than 70 endemic spe- pit entrance. It was no disappoint- Winfrey, Bev Shade, Jubal Grubb, cies, making it one of the world’s ment, measuring about 30 meters and I were scouting the mountains most significant and bio-diverse across. Peering in, we could see a south of Cuatro Ciénegas, Coahuila, habitats. The government has de- breakdown floor below. There were not finding much up to this point, clared it a national protected area, no trees to rig from, so the drill was when our fortunes turned. and most of the springs can only be essential. A deviation got me to a Eighteen months passed before visited by special arrangement, but ledge 10 meters down, where I we mounted an expedition to the several along the highway are open drilled a bolt for a nice 55-meter free remote Sierra to explore to the public. hang. The pit belled out nicely over the pit. Vivian Loftin, Terri Whit- Upon reaching the Valle el Sobaco, a huge breakdown mountain. I field, and I left Austin bound for a nearly a hundred kilometers to the landed on a boulder slope and rendezvous at a restaurant in Cuatro south, we turned off the highway called up for the others to come Ciénegas with an assortment of fel- and spent quite a bit of time ferret- down. The view up toward the en- low cavers. OFC veterans Leonard, ing out a dirt track that would take trance as they rappelled in was Jubal, Brian, and Laura were along, us into Cañon Carlota, where we quite spectacular. as well as Andy Gluesenkamp, would need to start our hike up to Fofo and I started looking along James Lopez, and Grace Borengas- the cave. We managed to reach the the walls for a way into the break- ser. Victorio Calvo from the Mon- canyon mouth before dark and set down. At the north end of the cham- terrey Tec caving group showed up, camp. Andy and Vivian set to work ber Fofo found an area blowing with more from his club to follow on the case of Corona caguamas, warm, moist air. The rocks around later on. The photos taken from the while Victorio drove back to the it were green with algae where the plane had done the trick of drawing highway later that night to guide moisture hit the dry desert air. We in a crowd. the other seven Tec cavers in. These opened a hole, but Fofo only got were Fofo González, Rubén down a couple of meters. We re- Pozo Chuzo from the air. Peter Sprouse. Gutiérrez, Patrick Meade, turned to the bottom of the rope to Ramon, Naayeli, Scout, and help with the survey. Vivian, Jubal, Miguel. They had been told and James began to map one way to look for a dirt road going around the wall, and Laura, Fofo, off of the highway at a cer- and I formed a second team to map tain point. As they slowed the other way. Then Terri and I went down to look, out of the to have another look Fofo’s dig. We darkness stumbled Victorio, opened a hole big enough for her falling over a fence with to get through. She got to another caguama in hand. dig and needed help and a hammer, The next morning we set so I called to Jubal on the radio. He off hiking east up the can- went in with Laura and Grace, but yon, some eighteen strong. they couldn’t get much farther. It

104 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 was getting dark, so we began to climb out. Unfortunately, not every- one got a chance to do the pit. Andy and some of the others had tried to walk to a large sinkhole we’d seen from the plane about a kilometer away, but they ran out of daylight. As I was climbing out of the pit, a few rocks fell in, knocking loose a bigger rock on the bottom that rolled onto Terri’s foot. But she got out okay and was able to walk back. In the desert darkness the GPS was a great help getting us back to camp. We named the pit Pozo Chuzo, af- ter the arrowhead that Scout had found along the hike up. The next day we packed up and headed north, stopping at Pozo la Becerra for some nice snorkeling. A month later Andy took a group back to Pozo Chuzo to try and push the blowing breakdown lead, but could- n’t get much farther. The air seems to be coming straight up through the breakdown floor, rather than along the bedrock wall, and the rocks were very unstable. Given the size of the collapse chamber, it could be a deep pile of rocks. But the damp breeze hints at a possible river passage below, perhaps even the water that feeds the Cuatro Ciénegas springs. They also hiked to the other sinkhole, but it was plugged.

El Hoyo Negro de Coahuila

El Pozo Chuso, en la Sierra Australia de Coahuila, fue localizado primeramente desde el aire. Espeleólogos de Texas y México visitaron y topografiaron la cavidad en enero de 2001. El tiro tuvo 65 metros, y la profundidad total de la cueva es de 87 metros.

Rappel into Pozo Chuzo. Peter Sprouse.

105 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

MIXTLANCINGO, THE RIVER OF THE UNDERWORLD

Ramón Espinasa-Pereña

e first heard of the Mixtlan- inhabited place. During a week rigged a 50-meter rope to get us Wcingo River sinks at a geologi- based in the town’s school building, easily into the Primer Resumidero cal conference at UNAM. Several where we established camp, we entrance. The passage is shaped like pictures of dolomite karst towers found that a logging road could be a high and narrow canyon, 30 to 50 were shown, but what sparked our followed almost to the place where meters high, but only 1 to 5 meters interest was one photo of a magnifi- the river goes underground into the wide at the bottom. Most cascades cent resurgence at the foot of an Primer Resumidero. A healthy flow were easily rigged, since the water impressive hundred-meter-high of over 1 cubic meter per second had carved narrow chutes at the headwall. While studying the topo- enters a narrow underground can- edge of each pitch, leaving ledge graphic maps of the area, we found yon and immediately plunges systems that could be traversed be- out that the Mixtlancingo is located down a series of cascades, where we fore descending, avoiding the direct southeast of the city of Chilpan- couldn’t follow without some com- force of the water. Most of the cingo, Guerrero. It is born near the plex rigging. About a kilometer pitches required rigging several town of Coaxtlahuacán, at the base away and over a ridge, we found a meters of traverse line, and this of- of Volcán Negro, a non-volcanic narrow gorge where the river again ten involved short climbs up to a mountain named for the dark color could be heard, but reaching it re- suitable ledge and many rebelays. of the forest that covers it and the quired a rigged descent down a On two push trips we rigged nine frequent cloud cap. The river follows lateral ravine. Once on the river, we cascades and climbed down several a narrow gorge before reaching the followed it upstream, coming im- others, before coming out at the re- Mixtlancingo Plain at the foot of the mediately to a small resurgence surgence in Cañón del Cristo. It is a Azoguaclare Mountain Range, entrance, which was explored up- short cave, 750 meters long, but which is characterized by huge do- stream to the base of a thundering very inspiring, sporting, and beau- lomite towers covered in thick cascade. Downstream, we followed tiful. A third, reverse through-trip vegetation and has no clear roads the gorge for a few hundred meters was necessary to survey and derig. or paths marked on the map. The to where the river dropped down a Having finished the first, shorter river appeared to disappear in a series of very impressive cascades underground section, I felt somewhat series of gorges and sinks until it before disappearing into the Segundo frustrated. When I started caving in resurges at the foot of the famous Resumidero. On the left wall was a the early 80s, river caving was the headwall that marks the southern large and a log that had big attraction. I read enviously the limit of the Azoguaclare Range and been perched on it by a huge flood, Yochib exploration accounts and flows steeply down a canyon, resembling a figure of Christ on the about the first forays into the eventually joining the Apetlanca- cross, so we named the gorge Zoquitlán area of southern Puebla. Papagayo Rivers. In Nahuatl, Cañón del Cristo. Also found on the In Zongolica, the French were en- Mixtlancingo means the river of the recce was a smaller sink, which was tering torrential rivers like Popoca, Mictlan, the Kingdom of the Under- baptized Resumidero Chico for the Cuetzaloxtoc, Atlalaquia de Atic- world, and it is described by small stream that entered it, in spite pac, and El Boquerón. Of course, all Sahagún as being “a green serpent of the 50-meter-wide entrance. the Huautla articles and pictures in the middle of two hills that join As soon as Mexpeleo 92 had focused on the wet canyons. Being one another.” The dead must cross ended, Sergio Nuño, Pablo de la a Mexico City caver, I had of course the river on their way to the Mictlan Mora, Javier Borau, Omar Villal- done the Dos Bocas systems, and paradise. pando, and Luis Fernando Garduño my caving dreams were always wet, were easily convinced to join the involving thundering cascades, n December 1992, a small recce team of Ruth Diamant, Hum- difficult traverses, and complex ISociedad Mexicana de Explora- berto Tachiquin (Tachi), and me. rigging. The exploration of Tolan- ciones Subterráneas group reached Camp was established at La Laguna’s tongo, in Hidalgo, had given me a the town of La Laguna, the nearest school. From the logging road we foretaste, and my search for active

106 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 streamways was a strong motiva- clawing her way against the current Fernando, Curro, Claudia, and tion for talking the Brits into restart- along the right wall, reaching a Soriano began exploration and ing exploration in Cuetzalan, Puebla. cobble beach on the other side. With mapping of Resumidero Chico. The I had great expectations about a rope fixed, Paso de las Uñas was entrance chamber gave way to a Mixtlancingo, and the Primer almost easy. series of steep downclimbs. Follow- Resumidero had not fulfilled them. Below us we could see the next ing the water, they found the little I did not know that my dreams were 10-meter cascade. Before reaching stream disappearing into an impen- about to become true. the bottom, the water was hitting a etrable fissure. The main passage ledge and spraying out in a fear- continued among large breakdown n February ’93, the same group some way into the continuing canal. boulders into a wide muddy pas- Ireturned, ready to tackle the ap- Deciding to avoid the bottom of the sage that finally ended in a muddy parently much harder Segundo canyon, I gave Ruthy a boost to a sump. As Claudia, Curro, and Resumidero. The entrance, located ledge on the left, from where a deli- Soriano finished some details on the at the end of the Cañón del Cristo cate traverse was rigged toward a survey, Luis Fernando and Sergio gorge, is one of the most impressive protruding spur, baptized Cabo del started searching for leads, finally entrances I’ve ever seen. Just to Miedo, Cape Fear. From there, an locating an obscure pitch among reach the dripline, a series of four easy descent took us back to the wa- boulders. Rigging a short handline, progressively bigger cascades has to ter beyond the spray of the cascade. they quickly disappeared into the be rigged. The first two were easily The river flowed into a flowstone wide, bouldery canyon that fol- bypassed, thanks to a lateral tunnel blockage and logjam, but a narrow lowed. on the left that avoided the worst window could be reached by an Meanwhile, the rest of us were of the falls. Beyond was the narrow- exposed climb on the left. Having searching for new entrances among est point in the gorge, and the whole reached it, we discovered that we the dolomite towers of Cerro el river cascades in from the right, hit- had run out of rope, so we could Viejo, above the known course of ting the left wall and blocking the only look down another narrow the underground Mixtlancingo, fol- passage at floor level. A wire lad- canal disappearing around a bend, lowing the tale told to us by the der allowed us to descend to the and hear the roar of another cascade comisario in La Laguna about a hole pool below and aided in doing a farther ahead. where the river could be heard be- traverse under the direct force of The survey out was relatively low. After following narrow trails the waterfall. Once out of the spray, easy, since we had progressed only with many switchbacks among we could make out the darkness a little over 200 meters, using about karst towers, usually finding at below that was the entrance proper. 250 meters of rope. During the their ends small flat dolines used A traverse on the right, with the derig, a couple of ropes were lost, for agriculture, we returned to the help of several bolts, allowed for a swept away by the force of the cur- truck, having enjoyed a sunny, dry hang of 15 meters into a large, rent. Out of time, we returned to beautiful day. We arrived at the stormy pool already in twilight. Fir- Mexico City, vowing to return as edge of the Resumidero Chico ing up our carbide lamps and elec- soon as possible. doline ten minutes before 6 P.M., the tric backups, we proceeded into the agreed time. At about 6, we noticed Segundo Resumidero. t’s Guerrero; it doesn’t rain in some small clouds climbing the A couple of easy rapids led to the INovember. With these wise pass below Cerro el Viejo. Ten min- edge of an 8-meter pitch. No ledges words, spoken by a certain member utes later, a huge downpour was this time, so a series of three bolts of the SMES whose name will re- falling. The road, together with sev- was necessary to get down it. A nar- main untold, and an insatiable cu- eral smaller streams on the hillside, row canal with a strong current riosity, Sergio, Luis Fernando, immediately turned into a river followed, ending in another pitch. Javier, Ruthy, Francisco Ruiz feeding red, muddy water into the Fortunately, a ledge started on the (Curro), Claudia Galicia, Jose A. doline. Trying not to get overly con- right just at the edge of the cascade, Soriano, my father, and I arrived at cerned, Javier and I geared up and so a bolt and deviation placed us 4 La Laguna on the morning of Octo- went into the doline, hoping to find meters lower, in a somber canal. ber 29, 1993. After establishing them coming out or waiting at the Twenty meters later we were look- camp, we proceeded down into entrance chamber. When we got ing down a narrow pitch. The water, Cañón del Cristo, only to find the there, the chamber was empty. The arcing out from the edge, was hitting Mixtlancingo incredibly swollen, tiny stream had metamorphosed the wall in front before reaching a brown, and foamy. After rigging the into a swollen, red, raging river, pool 10 meters below. No outlet first three cascades and reaching the completely blocking the narrow could be seen from above. Ruthy ladder pitch and traverse, we finally downclimbs. traversed onto a slick tree trunk came to our senses as we contem- As we contemplated crossing the stuck right at the edge of the pitch plated the impossible river crossing river to look for another route and rigged a line down on the right necessary at this point. We derigged down, we saw lights ahead. Curro side, out of the force of the water. and slowly returned to camp. and Claudia were coming out, and Once in the pool below, she man- The following day we decided to soon we were able to talk. The flood aged to cross under the cascade by split into two groups. Sergio, Luis had hit them as Sergio and Luis

107 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Fernando had reached the base of instead followed the logging roads entered the virgin canal with a rope. the short pitch. Given a shouted to the southeast of La Laguna, A few seconds later she called us, warning, they had ran back into the reaching the eastern escarpment of warning that the rope was not tied lower passage. Since then, nothing the Mixtlancingo Plateau. We re- at her end. A short climb at the edge was known of them, and the head turned to Mexico City a bit wiser, of the following cascade gave access of the pitch was completely blocked having learned not to try to start the to a small ledge with bare walls. The by the water. Leaving Soriano at the dry season by decree. cascade sloped downward, and the edge of the stream, they had found thunder prevented any conversa- a series of easy climbs bypassing the n the early morning hours of tion. We could see turbulence several cascades. Javier and Claudia were IDecember 18, Sergio, Curro, meters away, and the only possible sent out to drive back to La Laguna Pablo, Luis Fernando, Tachi, Ruthy, way on involved a difficult traverse and retrieve ropes, wetsuits, and and I reached La Laguna and im- on the right that would require rigging gear, while Curro and I mediately crashed for the remainder bolts. Having spent already many went back down to assess the situ- of the night. When we woke up, hours on this warm-up trip, we de- ation. Sergio and Luis Fernando expressed cided to return the next day. When we arrived at the edge of their desire to return to the going In the early morning of the nine- the pitch, Soriano was already rig- lead in Resumidero Chico. Pablo teenth, a truck stopping at the ging himself to the rope, and he and Curro offered to join them, school entrance awakened us all. announced that the flood pulse had while Ruthy and Tachi volunteered Louise Hose, Jim Pisarowicz, and passed and the pitch was passable. to go with me to Segundo Resumi- Emi Janecek joined us for the re- He went down, and as I followed dero and begin rigging. mainder of the expedition. That day he ran down the passage. When I The first team found a small they joined Sergio, Pablo, Curro, reached the bottom, I saw three sump a few meters from the climb and Luis Fernando on a rigging and lights coming back. Sergio and Luis that had stopped them in Novem- photo through-trip of Primer Fernando were okay. On the way ber. Meanwhile, we discovered, Resumidero. out, they told their story. On hear- upon reaching the edge of Paso de Meanwhile Ruthy, Tachi and I ing the warning shouts, they had las Uñas, that the jammed log were rigging the new cascade in run downstream to a widening of wasn’t there anymore. The cascade Segundo Resumidero. After placing the passage, where Sergio had no- also sounded different. Tachi pio- a bolt at the ledge to tie in the end ticed a high ledge. They had reached neered a hard traverse on the left of the canal rope, Tachi climbed on it in time to remain dry. They had that took us over a bridge to a the right with the help of some for- remained there for a while, listen- freehang above Cabo del Miedo. mations, retying the rope a few ing to the roaring, muddy river Touching down on the ancient times, until reaching the protrud- crashing down the climb that had cobble beach, I was surprised by the ing wall at the right. Placing a bolt, stopped their scoop, and when they changes. The pool that we had he then proceeded to rappel down had noticed the level dropping and crossed in Paso de las Uñas was toward the gorge. As he reached it, figured they could return upstream gone, and the cascade had doubled he braced against the opposite wall safely, they had started moving. in height, to over 20 meters. The and placed another bolt. Then he Soon they met Soriano coming to cobbles I was standing on were now returned to our ledge. the rescue. a fragile bridge suspended 10 Briefly, he described what fol- When we reached the road, we meters above the turbulence, the lowed. Below was the bottom of the saw the lights of Javier’s truck com- key chockstones that had dammed cascade, but a descent straight ing down. I could see the fear in my the pool having been flushed out by down looked dangerous. The gorge dad’s eyes as he counted heads and the summer rains. Still rigged to the was narrow enough at the top to his relief when he saw we were all rope above, I pendulumed to the bridge with arms and legs, and a out. That night some of us stayed rock spur of Cabo del Miedo and ledge was visible on the right a few up until very late, talking and gen- rigged the line. The others fol- meters ahead, but reaching it might erally unwinding. lowed, and we reached the window, risk a pendulum that could end The next day we avoided any last year’s final point. The logjam with the caver crashing into the underground adventures, and had also been washed out, so Ruthy waterfall. Ruthy decided she

108 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 wanted some action. She crossed from the canyon into a larger cham- Mixtlancingo expedition. the traverse, and when she reached ber 20 meters wide and 40 meters On the eleventh, Javier, Claudia, the last bolt, she tied a knot on the long. Up on the right we could see Tachi, and Jesús started rigging remaining rope about 4 meters the others’ lights, while on the left Segundo Resumidero. It was later down and, locking her descender, the river crashed onto some large in the dry season, and they found started bridging across the traverse. breakdown blocks. Still surveying, the stream was smaller, but surpris- It was soon apparent that the left we climbed to the right, across a ingly its temperature was a lot wall was turning left and the can- rigged traverse, to the ledge where colder than usual. After the en- yon becoming too wide to chimney, Curro and Pablo were resting. Luis trance series had been rigged and but Ruthy managed to extend her- Fernando was placing a bolt farther they had reached the edge of Paso self enough to reach the edge of the out, from where he planned to de- de las Uñas, those not actually do- ledge and, with a dynamic move, scend to the tip of a breakdown ing the rigging rebelled due to cold, pull herself onto the ledge. After block that jutted out toward the can- and so they all left the cave. she drilled a bolt, we followed yon below. An ominous roar could The following morning Tachi, across Los Olanes, the Draperies, be plainly heard coming from the Luis Fernando, and Jesús decided traverse. From the other end of the darkness ahead. to join me in rigging and pushing ledge, a short drop returned us to Checking our supplies, we dis- beyond last year’s final point, and river level at the head of a windy, covered that both groups were low all the others decided to go find one low-ceilinged canal with a strong on carbide, so when Luis Fernando of the skylights with the help of the current. Placing some polypropy- finished placing the bolt, we told comisario. Once we were inside the lene rope to help on the upward him we should start heading out. cave, the low water levels helped journey, we eased ourselves into the He went ahead down to the break- simplify the rigging. The Paso de las water. down block to take a look, but re- Uñas lake was there again, the The passage soon regained its ported being able to see only a short cobble dam having been rebuilt by height, turning into a very high and cascade below and mist in the can- a new logjam, but we still rigged narrow canyon. No more cascades yon ahead. Whatever was roaring the upper traverse as we had the were encountered, although several ahead would have to wait for the previous year. The Olanes pitch was rapids were rigged with canal ropes next year. On the way out, all the easily rigged down the main water of polypropylene. A few hundred shorter ropes in the horizontal sec- chute instead of last year’s difficult meters later, we could see light tion were derigged. The following traverse. Having reached the hori- ahead, and we quickly reached the day Louise, Curro, and Sergio zontal passage, we started going base of a huge skylight entrance derigged the Segundo Resumidero, down quickly. As we were going some 50 meters high and about 20 while Tachi, Luis Fernando, and under the small skylight, we heard meters wide, with many vencejos, Ruthy helped me take photos and voices and saw a rope coming swifts like those in Golondrinas, liv- derig in Primer Resumidero. down, and so decided to wait for ing on the walls. After making sure the others’ descent. Once down, that the underground canyon con- t was 8 P.M., and Sergio and I had Ruthy decided she would join us, tinued, we started the long trip back Ibeen waiting at La Laguna for al- while Javier, Pablo, and Curro were up. most two hours. We had traveled in sent upstream to derig the entrance The next day Sergio and the Sergio’s truck, loaded with all the series, since the surface walk to and Americans volunteered to resurvey expedition gear, while Ruthy, Pablo, from the skylight was supposed to Resumidero Chico, since the previ- Curro, Claudia, Tachi, Luis Fernan- be easier and would be used as our ous survey notes had been lost in do, Jesús Reyes, and Javier filled up main route. We decided to continue the flood. Meanwhile Ruthy, Tachi, Javier’s truck. Five kilometers be- our push until about 8 P.M. and I surveyed our previous scoop, fore La Laguna we had last seen The known section of passage and Pablo, Curro, and Luis Fernando them right behind us, so we figured was literally run down, more to es- decided to grab some glory ahead out something wrong must have cape the cold than from excitement of us. While surveying, we noticed happened. When we backtracked about the exploration. When we a smaller skylight a few hundred the 5 kilometers, we found out. On reached last year’s farthest point, meters before the big one. After a a blind curve they had turned too Luis Fernando went ahead, and we couple of hours, we passed under far right and hit a small ditch at least started what has probably been the La Gran Claraboya, the Big Sky- 1.5 meters deep. In the dark and best pushing trip I’ve ever been in- light, and kept on surveying. The without lamps, which were in volved in. The rigging immediately passage remained high and narrow, Sergio’s truck, they had slowly be- got difficult. The roar ahead, which we passed a couple rigged rapids, gun filling the trench with rocks should not have been there in the and after a couple more hours, as and lifting the truck. Once we ar- diminished water level of the sea- we were getting really cold, we rived, the lifting of the truck went son, could be plainly heard. Three started hearing the dings of a bolt quickly, so after having lost only short pitches were rigged in quick being driven and could soon hear four hours, we fell asleep on the succession, including a very photo- some conversations above the side of the road. Such was the in- genic cascade. The roar ahead was sound of the river. We emerged auspicious start for the April 1994 getting scary, since we knew the

109 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 stream we were following could not the river had increased in strength After several wrong turns, we fi- be the cause and could still not tell and, at the same time, lost my foot- nally found the main path and met what was. Another small pitch ing. Fortunately, I regained my with Pablo, Javier, and Curro, who appeared, and when I reached the stance before being washed down- had been waiting for us at the truck bottom and turned around, I was river. The short cascade that followed since eleven, and were seriously surprised by the most amazing was rigged with the tail of rope that concerned by now. Although the view in the cave. A river as large as was left. drive up to La Laguna was unevent- or larger than the main one was Once the rope had been rigged, ful, we were not in bed until 5:00 pouring out from some small holes the others followed. It was already A.M. on the thirteenth, my birthday. in the ceiling and crashing down 8:20 P.M. Since we were out of rope, The next morning, or rather into the narrow canyon, blocking it we decided to scoop ahead to the about midday, we spent ages pre- completely from wall to wall. No next pitch. A few swims and canals paring breakfast. After taking a way through was apparent. later, we saw a rope hanging from short hike in the woods around Remembering the place, famous a log jammed between the walls 15 town, I returned to the schoolhouse among kayakers, where the Galli- meters above, one of the ropes lost right at the hottest time of day. Ev- nas River falls into the Santa Maria, over a year earlier. Carrying it with eryone was hanging in hammocks, we named the place El Tamul. On us, we quickly used it at another except Tachi, Luis Fernando, and the left a rock spur allowed a view short pitch farther ahead. Short rap- Jesús, the youngsters, who were still into a stormy pool halfway through ids followed, and then some canals eating while daydreaming about ice the cascade. Using a canal rope for that we swam through. Suddenly cream and banana splits. Although a belay, I walked down the continua- the ceiling went up into a high the truck owners took some con- tion of the canyon into the maelstrom. breakdown dome. Squeezing our- vincing, we drove to the stream My carbide was immediately blown selves under a large block, we near the eastern escarpment, where out, and my electric light only cre- popped up in a larger passage, a dip in some pools finally woke us ated reflections in the crashing wa- about 10 meters wide, floored with up and helped make the afternoon ter that effectively blinded me. Feel- huge eroded gours among which seem shorter. We returned to pre- ing the pressure of falling water on the river had carved a narrow, cas- pare the gear for the following day my helmet, I turned my electric off cading gorge. All considerations of and cooked a tremendous supper and proceeded ahead, lighted only time forgotten, our goal now was to boost calorie levels in prepara- by the reflections of the others’ to reach the resurgence below the tion for what we knew would be an lamps. Suddenly the pressure was famous headwall. Although the epic trip. gone, and I was on the other side. gradient was quite steep and every As I turned my light on, I noticed 5 or 10 meters a waterfall threat- riday, April 14; wake up call at Tachi in the first cascade, Primer ened to stop our progress, F7:30. Immediately there was we managed to advance al- movement in every corner. Break- Resumidero. Ramon Espinasa. most another hundred fast, final packing, and equipment meters before being stopped check, and by 9:00 everyone was by an unclimbable cascade. inside the truck. When Luis Fernando As we were contemplating started to point out that, as incred- the falls and canyon ahead, ible as it sounded, we were all ready we were suddenly startled at the appointed time, he discov- by something flying to- ered his lamp was without a jet. wards us and took some Total stop to look for it. Finally we seconds to recognize it as a left the school after only ten min- vencejo. This could only utes’ delay, a new SMES record. mean we had made it, and This time following the correct the resurgence had to be route, we reached the Claraboya just ahead, invisible be- Chica entrance two hours later, hav- cause of the hour. We were ing passed by a beautiful surface elated and very happy as canyon ending at the pitch entrance. we started on our way out. Tachi, Jesús, Ruthy, and I went in At 2:30 A.M. we were lost first, intending to map our scoop of in the tower karst. When we two days before. We almost ran all had reached the rope at the the way to the breakdown chamber Claraboya Chica, the 80 and started surveying. Used to meters of jumaring had working together, we moved effi- been a welcome warm-up. ciently, so the others only caught us Then, relying on Ruth’s past Tamul. They kept on going to , we tried to fol- start rigging the next cascade. low an obscure path marked About two hours later we caught up with occasional flagging. with them as they got off rope at the

110 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 base of the pitch, where they re- cascades, and we could see the river resulted in the last group having ported that, although they could crashing down a very steep surface to derig and carry all the ropes. now see the light from outside, sev- canyon, finally disappearing from When we reached the foot of Clara- eral small cascades still needed to view around a corner. In front we boya Chica, Sergio was exhausted be rigged. When we were given the saw mountain ranges extending as and Curro was feeling ill, but they clear signal, we surveyed down two far as can be seen. Vertical cliffs managed to climb the pitch by rigged pitches joined by a long surrounded us, and no surface themselves. Once out, we pulled the rigged traverse. The last pitch, al- route back was apparent. rope and proceeded toward the ready bathed in surface light, ends Although the view was great, we truck. Again we got lost in the brush at a beautiful pool, and we swam couldn’t help feeling sorry that the surrounding the surface canyon, out of the cave. Behind us was a cave had been finished. The dream, but we finally made it to the school- majestic wall, vertical to overhang- the challenge that had lasted for house in the early morning hours ing and at least a hundred meters three years and five expeditions, of the fifteenth. The next day we high, with the river emerging from was over. packed up and returned to Mexico a 30-meter-high cleft at its base. The return trip was very tiring. City. Now, to search for a new From the exit pool, the river drops We split into groups to avoid wait- dream. quickly down a series of unclimbable ing at the base of each pitch, but this

Mixtlancingo, el río del Inframundo

Durante 5 expediciones, un grupo de la SMES exploró los Resumideros del Río Mixtlancingo, situados en una región re- mota de la Sierra de Guerrero. El caudal de 1 m3/s, la naturaleza estrecha de las galerías y el gradiente elevado resultaron en cavidades súmamente técnicas, en las que cada cascada requirió de travesías con muchos fraccionamientos y desviaciones. El Primer Resumidero tuvo 705 m de pasajes y resultó de 42 m de hondo, mientras que el Segundo Resumidero tuvo 1,746 m de largo y 143 m de desnivel, y están separadas por un cañón su- perficial de 341 m de largo. Una tercera cavidad, el Resumidero chico, que usualmente solo lleva un pequeño arroyo, fue explorada por 510 metros hasta una profundidad de 104 metros, y fue el escenario de una crecida que afortunadamente solo resultó en un buen susto.

(See map on following pages.)

111 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

112

AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

LAS GRUTAS DE LOS RÍOS SAN JERONIMO AND CHONTALCUATLAN

Chris Lloyd

ust 30 kilometers from the fa- walls all the way to the roof, a lahar year, as all the crosses near the en- Jmous historic silver district of flowed 50 kilometers from its trance attest. (The combined flow of Taxco and 100 kilometers southwest source, through the caves, and then the rivers below the two caves is of Mexico City lies the Doc Bocas some 30 kilometers more down- paddleable all year around, with System, the dry, fossil tourist cave stream. The best guess of the age of nice class-3 whitewater.) If it is De- of Cacahuamilpa situated above the this flow is twenty-eight thousand cember or January, many people active river caves San Jeronimo and years. It certainly would not have suit up with wetsuits before enter- Chontalcoatlan. The river caves are been a good day to be caving. ing the river, as the source of the two independent caves, each almost Gruta de Cacahuamilpa has been river is meltwater from the snow on 6 kilometers long, that have lower known for hundreds of years and a Volcán Toluca 50 kilometers up- entrances within 100 meters of each tourist cave since the nineteenth stream. Most sane people just wait other—the Dos Bocas—and can be century. It was first mapped in the until a little later in the year, when done as separate through trips. All 1920s and is essentially a level, 2- the water levels go down and the three caves feature enormous pas- kilometer-long passage of borehole temperature goes up, so they can do sages through their whole lengths, dimensions, averaging about 40 it in shorts and tee shirts. My first and they truly make up one of the meters wide by at least that high. It visit was timed to catch as much most impressive cave systems in is extremely well decorated, with high water as I thought our group Mexico and some of the classic floor-to-ceiling flowstone or col- could handle, but happened to cor- through trips in the world. And umns in places. Having it lit for the respond to a late-January snowfall what other cave in the world has tourist trip is really the only way to on Toluca. Most of our group of had a lahar flow through it? appreciate it. [A description of a trip twenty did have wetsuits, and even A lahar is a cold volcanic flow to the cave in 1848 is printed in those who didn’t did not complain produced when there is a cataclys- AMCS Activities Newsletter 23, along of the cold, not even the seventy- mic eruption of a volcano that has with comments on the geology of two-year-old aunt of the trip leader. glaciers on it. The hot, particle-laden the Doc Bocas by J Harlen Bretz.] You can’t even see the actual en- cloud emitted from the volcanic For active cavers, though, it is the trance from where you must enter vent first rises, but then collapses, lower caves that hold the real attrac- the river, due to the narrowness of sending the hot cloud down the tion, for both have kilometers of the canyon, which is about 10 flank of the volcano past the gla- sporting river passage that averages meters wide by at least 40 meters ciers, which quickly melt from the 30 or 40 meters high and wide. high and which forces you to swim heat. The cool mixture of water, ash, To get to the entrance of San shortly after entering the frigid sand, and rock rushes down the Jeronimo, you can hire a local truck water. After about 100 meters, you slope, sweeping away anything in for a dollar a person to drive you can wade again, and you can see the its path and incorporating it into the from the tourist cave over the true ceiling of the entrance high flow. The resulting lahar can travel mountain to where you can walk above you, though it is still another many tens or even hundreds of ki- down 200 vertical meters into a dry 200 meters before the canyon opens lometers. In the case of the caves of valley that takes you to the course up into wide cave passage. Here the Dos Bocas System, which have of the very active river, which is so you are overwhelmed by the size, remains of it plastered on their large that the cave is generally not 60 meters wide by 70 meters high, passable from the beginning of the still well lit by the entrance. In fact, The foldout map is reprinted from rainy season in late May until about it is at least another 500 meters be- the Canadian Caver, volume 8 num- New Years. Numerous people have fore the light from the entrance fi- ber 1, May 1976. died trying it at the wrong time of nally disappears and you are left to

115 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 guess where the walls are, unless becomes strong enough to you have enough people and lights. blow out a ceiling-burner An advantage of a large group, es- carbide light at a point 5 pecially if you are the last in line, is meters high and 25 meters that the long string of lights enables wide; there can’t be many you to actually see the whole out- cave passages like that. line of the enormous passage. Claustrophobic types need The route depends on what you not worry, for it opens back consider the line of least resistance. up again to its more normal In places it is definitely easiest to dimensions. walk along the sandy embank- The lower entrance is just ments, while in others wading in as impressive as the upper the smooth-bottomed river is pref- one; here too there are at erable. But where there are slippery least 500 meters of gradually rocks hiding beneath the surface, as increasing light before you is more common, and there is no can see blue sky again. The flat, sandy beach, it is necessary to swifts that have been all day scramble over boulder piles, some watching tourists hike of which can take you up to 30 down from the show cave to meters above the river. Because it see the entrances no doubt is a large and powerful river, last get a surprise when the oc- year’s easy bypass to a cascade may casional group of light-bear- this year be a slide down a large ing figures comes out of the ramp of boulders and a plunge into darkness below them. the pool below. Numerous swims The normal time for Mex- are necessary, though none is as ican excursionistas to traverse the room off a side passage at the en- long as the one outside the entrance. cave is about eight hours. Our trance to Chonta added to the ap- Occasionally there are some large group of twenty, who ranged in age peal of the trip. We hiked up and masses of gour (rimstone) pools, from nine to seventy-two, made it over to the entrance Saturday morn- which are well worth a scramble in seven. It has been done in as little ing. up to check out. The largest one as two hours, but they didn’t see Knowing you are going to a big stretches at least 100 meters along any of the nicer formations. It’s cave does not prepare you for the one wall and at least 50 meters ver- worth the time to go slowly and size of the entrance. The 50-meter- tically up it at about the half-way savor it all. wide opening is located at the point. It is a good place to stop for bottom of what must be a close to a snack or lunch. t was a year later when we got 600-meter-high vertical wall. The About two-thirds of the way Iaround to organizing a trip to side passage, which is best viewed through, the ceiling finally comes Chontalcoatlan, and we decided to from the opposite cliff while climb- down to where you can easily see it photograph it, as there are very few ing down, makes the entrance look 10 or 20 meters above you, and you known photos, and those are very even bigger. Without doubt the start to notice the draft. The wind old. Rumors of an unexplored big scariest party of the trip is climb- ing down a fixed, overhanging lad- der held together by baling wire. Sensible school groups belay the students down this part. As everything in this area is big, we should have realized that the climb up into the entrance to the side passage wouldn’t just be a scramble. It turned out to be a 25- meter-high 5.8 climb, sporting an overhang near the bottom and a

Above: Large gours midway through the upstream section of Chontalcoatlan. Left: Big river passage in Chonta. The large flowstone and gours that appear in the distance are in the photo above. Chris Lloyd. 116 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

crawlway, not the nice flat, we had to listen to the nearly con- sandy-floored one I had tinuous parade of groups starting been looking forward to, but in. For some reason, Mexican ex- a tight, contorting, sweat- cursionistas like to enter the cave producing one, punctuated about dusk and leave it about mid- by the occasional pile of pu- night. This weekend, though, hap- trid vampire guano that you pened to be one of the few long have to try to pass without weekends Mexicans get, and they smearing it onto yourself. were out in force, with a new party We caught up with the passing us every hour all night long, surveyors after about 150 whooping and hollering as they hit meters when they were the cold water. This in turn woke paused at a duckunder. No- up the swifts nesting high above us, body was very keen to get who added their racket to give us a his only clothes wet, espe- restless night. cially as it seemed that We did manage to get going be- somebody had surveyed at fore the crack of noon, just, and least this far before. Kirk thoroughly enjoyed strolling along decided to go for it, and he the huge passage. There is another coaxed Ramón and Curro to lead not far in, at least 10 meters in continue on to where they size and some 10 meters up an over- did finally find the fabled hanging wall, that was found, on a big room, along with names subsequent trip, to be just an alcove. and 1950s dates marked on It seems to me that Chonta is a bit the wall—somewhat anticli- smaller than San Jeronimo, but is it mactic, though the passage very consistent in its 30-meter did continue on the other width and height. It is also a lot side of the room as a similar easier, having more sandy beaches crawlway that looked unen- to walk on and fewer boulder piles vertical section of moss-covered tered. As this Pilars Passage looks to climb over. Occasional large gour flowstone at the top, all with little like it was a major route before be- pools have formed below inlets, cre- protection. We had not brought har- ing largely plugged by the lahar, ating perfect places for the Mexi- nesses and climbing shoes, and the this crawl has good potential. Per- cans to spray-paint their names. person Ramón Espinasa had ex- haps another time. Almost exactly halfway through, pected to lead the climb had can- Bivying in the entrance meant the cave passes beneath the Clara- celed out the previous afternoon. that we were well positioned for a boya entrance, which has a very Fortunately, I had invited Dave good start on a through trip on Sun- impressive flowstone and gour- Jones along, and he quickly got up day morning, but it also meant that pool cascade 60 meters high, down it, despite being equally unequip- ped. While Dave, Ramón, and Fran- cisco “Curro” Ruiz went ahead to survey, Kirk Stafford and I photo- graphed our way in. The passage’s name, Pilars, is quite appropriate, as beautiful white columns, some well over 15 meters high, grace the entrance sections. There are also some nice gour dams, dry that time of year. The nice part ends quickly, though, forcing one into a nasty

Above: The climb to the lead at the upper entrance to Chonta. Right: Curro at the skylight entrance about halfway through Chonta. Three people may be barely visible at the left edge of the gours about halfway up. Chris Lloyd.

117 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 which water flows during every rainy season. The lower section went by quickly, as we weren’t tak- ing photos, partly because the marble band here is not as pretty as that in San Jeronimo. The original Las Grutas de los Ríos explorers here in the 1930s had got- San Jeronimo and Chontalcoatlan ten to about 600 meters from the bottom entrance and had turned back one corner from the sight of Las cuevas de Dos Bocas son dos resurgencias de grandes daylight. ríos subterráneos bajo la Gruta de Cacahuamilpa. Ambas We got out in time to savor that son muy populares entre los excursionistas, pero solo daylight, and we tromped back up to the cars with considerably more pueden visitarse con seguridad entre Navidad y el mes energy than we had had after the de mayo, cuando el caudal de los ríos es bajo. Se describen previous year’s trip though San viajes a través de ambos ríos subterráneos. Antes del viaje Jeronimo. If you are ever visiting a través del Chonta, se visitó el pasaje superior fosil en la Mexico, I highly recommend a trip entrada superior. El mapa fue publicado en el Canadian through at least one of these caves. The best times for the river caves are Caver en 1976. from about Christmas until about May. Trying them during the rainy season or for three months after- ward is likely to result in loss of life.

118 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

ACCIDENT REPORT RESUMIDERO LA JOYA, GUERRERO

Ramón Espinasa-Pereña

esumidero La Joya is located cave, and it is used by most Mexico without an extra control , Rnear the town of Gavilanes on City cavers as a training and tour- and a shunt for safety that was at- the Cacahuamilpa-Taxco road. It ist trip considered “semi-serious” tached to his harness with a 1-meter was first explored by Asociación by most people. Round-trip times sling of half-inch tape. He had been Mexicana de Espeleología in the to the bottom range from 5 hours, caving for three or four years. When seventies to a sump beyond three if the cave is rigged, to over 20 hours he lost control, he let go of the interior pitches. In the late seven- during some courses that include shunt, but the webbing broke, and ties, José Montiel of Base Draco rigging and derigging. he continued his fall, still attached passed the sump, which is really a After the rescue of Alain Goupil to the Dressler but unable to brake, crawlway about a meter long with in the Sierra Negra of Puebla in 1999 hitting once against the wall before 5 to 10 centimeters of airspace, and [see AMCS Activities Newsletter 24], landing on the bottom sitting down. found a long continuation, with two many of the Mexican cavers in- He probably fell for about 25 meters. more pitches to a room with a final volved felt the need for training in Those present stabilized the victim sump at a depth of 236 meters. The cave-rescue techniques. Juan Mon- and diagnosed a broken ankle, frac- main passage is about 3 kilometers taño organized a rescue seminar in tured pelvis, and possibly several long and contains flowing water November and December 2000, af- broken ribs. Three cavers were sent almost from the beginning. The en- ter the national caving congress, to the surface to report the accident, trance pitch is 5 meters, the second with the help of members of Spéléo reaching it at 2:30 A.M. on Sunday. is 15 meters, and then, beyond sev- Secours Français, the French cave- After reporting to the local authori- eral squeezes, the third pitch is 10 rescue group, and Resumidero La ties, they managed to call Ricardo meters. Following the fourth pitch, Joya was used for the practices. Arias, leader of the Politécnico also 10 meters, a long horizontal Those who attended the course then group, in Mexico City. Then the passage containing the sump leads organized Espeleo Rescate México. three reentered the cave, leaving to the fifth pitch, of 11 meters. The [See article elsewhere in this issue.] nobody on the surface. sixth pitch, 45 meters, follows im- mediately. Passage size is ample, do not know the details of the t about 3:00 A.M. Sunday, but not roomy, about 1 to 2 meters Iaccident, but the following is ARicardo Arias called José wide and 0.5 to more than 20 meters made up from things told to me and Montiel of Base Draco and Sergio high, with many meanders and lots the official report of the ERM. Santana, the Operations Coordina- of small pools. No swimming is Cavers from Grupo de Espeleología tor of Espeleo Rescate México. necessary, but you do get almost del Institute Politécnico Nacional While Montiel contacted Arturo entirely wet. There are many small entered La Joya at 11 A.M. Saturday, Montero of the Mexican Red Cross, climbs. No convenient map exists, May 26, 2001. The group was com- who passed word of the accident to but Base Draco published one in posed of thirteen beginners led by the Red Cross in Taxco, Santana more than a dozen segments in four instructors. They entered in talked with Juan Montaño, the ERM Draco numbers 2, 3, 4, and 5 over two different teams, each with two Coordinator, who then proceeded the period 1983 to 1989. of the instructors. At about 9:30 P.M., to contact all members of ERM and Since its discovery and explora- one of the instructors in the second some other cavers. At about 5 A.M., tion, La Joya has become a popular group, Martín Alvarado Ibarra, age Manuel Casanova, the ERM In- 23, started his descent of the last struction Coordinator, and Dr. This is the author’s personal report pitch, 45 meters deep. He appar- Beatriz Álvarez left Mexico City, and analysis of the rescue, based on ently got through a rebelay 10 followed about an hour later by personal knowledge, the official meters down okay, but then lost Sergio Santana with two members Espeleo Rescate México report, and control of his speed. He was using of his group Unión de Rescate e a report by Javiar Vargas. a Dressler descender, possibly Investigación en Oquedades

119 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Naturales and four members of the would be better in the squeezes be- checking the patient, I talked with Red Cross. About 7:00 A.M., Juan tween the second and third pitches. Casanova about the need to open Montaño left Mexico City with two At about this same time, Casanova’s up the squeeze known as the Paso members of Grupo Espeleológico team had finished hauling Martín de los Noventas, and while we took Universitario, after making sure up the last two pitches and was car- charge of the actual carrying, he and that other cavers were getting ready. rying the stretcher toward the the rest of the GEU cavers went up This first contingent of twelve res- “sump” crawlway. There, since the to make sure the third and fourth cuers arrived at La Joya between largest space underwater was not pitches were ready and to start 7:30 and 9:00 A.M. and found the right at the small airspace, a hose hammering the squeeze. The rest of entrance area deserted, with no- was given to Martín to help him the Politécnico cavers were some- body to answer their questions. A breathe while the stretcher was where behind, too tired to move couple of cavers were sent in to in- maneuvered underwater. Fortu- faster than the stretcher was being vestigate, followed soon by Casa- nately, he was conscious and able carried. nova escorting Dr. Álvarez and a to help. The fourth and third pitches were group from the Red Cross carrying At 5:30 P.M., without further news easily passed, hauling the stretcher a litter. They made contact with from inside, five GEU and two with the counterweight of another Martín and the other sixteen Poli- SMES cavers entered the cave with caver, and we soon reached the base técnico cavers at the base of the 45- all the gear needed to rig the first of the climb leading to the Noventas meter pitch, 2 kilometers into the four pitches for hauling. When they squeeze. By this time, Casanova had cave, at around 12:30 P.M., fifteen reached the top of the fourth, they already chipped off some 10 centi- hours after the accident. The patient met two Politécnico cavers on the meters of flowstone, and it was was stabilized and put on the way out, who informed them that deemed wide enough for Martín stretcher, and preparations to haul Martín was already being hauled and the stretcher. A rig point was him up the pitch were started. though the sump. They decided to found so the stretcher could be Santana went back out to inform split up into three groups to have hauled up to the level of the squeeze those on the surface, while Casa- all the pitches rigged and ready and held there by the people below, nova, with the aid of the Red Cross when the stretcher arrived. while two people maneuvered it members, rigged the last two On the surface, things were get- into the squeeze and two others re- pitches for stretcher hauling. The ting out of control. At least seven ceived it on the other side. When Politécnico cavers were reluctant to different Red Cross ambulances, Martín had passed the squeeze, ev- leave their friend, but most were coming from Taxco, Cuernavaca, eryone sagged with relief, knowing finally persuaded to head back to and as far as Orizaba, were parked the rest would be comparatively easy. the surface, reaching it at various near the local football field, and a Two GEU cavers then headed out times that afternoon. group of nine members of Cuerna- to ask for all the people available to Meanwhile back in Mexico City, vaca’s mountain rescue unit of the make the carrying easier. By 5 A.M. several other groups of cavers were Red Cross had arrived. But they had we had reached the base of the sec- organized to go help with the res- no caving experience, so they were ond pitch, and Martín was imme- cue. By midday on Sunday, Ramón persuaded to remain on the surface. diately hauled up. While those still Espinasa and four other members Local police and Civil Protection below climbed, members of the Red of Sociedad Mexicana de Explora- officials arrived with metal ladders, Cross carried the stretcher the final ciones Subterráneas left for the which were placed at the short en- stretch to the surface, which it cave. Arturo Robles and four other trance pitch, but they too had to be reached at 7:30 A.M. on Monday, Grupo Espeleológico Universitario persuaded not to continue into the thirty-four hours after the accident. cavers were experiencing car cave. Montiel and the Red Cross Most of the Red Cross ambu- troubles, and finally left in another were meanwhile discussing with lances present either had mechani- car about an hour later. These two Civil Protection the possibility of cal problems or were stuck in the groups arrived at La Joya between building latrines and arranging mud on the road, so after his wet 3 and 5 P.M. During the rest of the food for the rescuers. Luckily, clothes were changed and he was day, several other groups headed Montaño, as surface coordinator, given another checkup, Martín was toward the cave. managed to stay on top of all this. placed in a Socorro Alpino ambu- Everyone was expecting a very At midnight, no word had come lance and taken to a hospital in long carry, and estimates of the time out of the cave, so I and four other Mexico City. There, a fracture of the needed to carry Martín out varied SMES members went in. At the sec- right ankle and two cracks in the up to forty-eight hours. Therefore ond pitch we found a few Politécnico pelvis were confirmed, and he had it was arranged that groups of five cavers on their way out, and they to be taken to intensive care for res- to eight people would enter the cave told us that Martín was already past piratory problems caused by Histo- every six to eight hours to carry the the sump, so we hurried onward, plasma capsulatum and pulmonary stretcher. Santana reentered the passing the GEU cavers stationed at embolism. Fortunately, he recov- cave at 5 P.M. with seven Politécnico each pitch, and found Martín half- ered satisfactorily and is now out cavers carrying UNAM’s stretcher, way between the sump and the of danger, though facing months of a French model that it was felt fourth pitch. While Dr. Álvarez was recovery.

120 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

he rescue went extremely well, keeping them at bay. Most of the groups, as everyone thought it Tconsidering all the factors and actual rescue was carried out by would take a lot longer to get him the people present. It was very for- Santana, Casanova, and the Grupo out. In general, I was pleased that tunate that the rescue course had Espeleológico Universitario, with caving in Mexico has advanced practiced in the same cave only six some help from us of the Sociedad enough that a rescue operation like months earlier, because all the Mexicana de Exploraciones Sub- this was carried out so efficiently, pitches had previous been rigged terráneas. A few others were also but wonder what would have hap- for stretcher hauling and most of very helpful. If I had been in charge pened in a much more technical the difficult spots had already been of surface operations, I would have cave, one that would have filtered recognized and considered, which kept a more constant check on what out many of the people who carried saved a lot of time. As always, there was happening underground by the stretcher part of the way, leav- were many people who did not sending messengers in, but maybe ing the whole rescue in the hands help at all, but only gave trouble, Montaño was right in saving the of the real cavers. but Montaño did a good job of able cavers to make up hauling

El sábado 26 de mayo, un grupo del Instituto Politécnico Nacional formado por 13 espeleólogos novatos guiados por 4 instructores entró al Resumidero La Joya, una cavidad activa muy popular, en las cercanías de la famosa Gruta de Cacahuamilpa. Esta cueva contiene varios tiros y dos estrecheces severas. En el último tiro, de 45 metros, Martín Alvarado Ibarra, uno de los instructores, perdió el control de su descensor y cayó casi en caida libre desde unos 25 metros de altura, fracturandose un tobillo y golpeandose fuertemente la pelvis. El rescaté, que involucró a decenas de espeleólogos de casi todos los grupos basados en la Ciudad de México, tomó 34 horas.

121 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

ZACATÓN UPDATE

Marcus Gary

wo recent expeditions have col- around the pozas on the ranch (see lipan thorn forest from several ar- Tlected data that will be used to AMCS Activities Newsletter 24). The eas around the edge of the poza to interpret the geologic and hydro- goal of this survey is to produce a give the LADAR a clear view. Once logic processes that formed the high-resolution three-dimensional areas were cleared, benchmarks sinkholes in the large karst system image of the area, both above and, were drilled into bedrock, and a that includes water-filled El Zacatón, eventually, below water level. surveyor’s total station was used to plumbed to 329 meters deep. In order to create images of the tie their locations together. Finally, In January 2002, Marcus Gary, pozas above the water level, a laser each poza was scanned with the Robin Havens, Bill Stone, Jim radar, or LADAR, was used to scan the LADAR instrument from the several Bowden, Ann Kristovich, Jack walls and surroundings. The first clearings in order to obtain data Sharp, and Mark Helper spent two step was to clear the dense Tamau- from enough angles to make a weeks working on Rancho La Azufrosa, the cattle ranch where Zacatón is located. Robin, Jim, and This is an image of a room in Cavernas Cuarteles at a junction of Ann spent much of the time work- three horizontal passages and several skylights. It represents a ing on cave-diving techniques and LADAR scan 360 degrees around (the left and right edges of the training. Marcus, Bill, Jack, and Mark picture match up) and vertically from straight up to 45 degrees spent the entire time conducting a below horizontal. The data set consists of 750 points for each of detailed survey of the topography 2000 vertical scan lines, giving a total of one and a half million data points. At each point, the instrument recorded both range, to plus or minus 15 millimeters, and the intensity of the reflec- tion. The picture is made from the intensity data, which most closely imitates what a flash photo would look like. It is possible to drive 150 meters into the cave, and a truck is visible in the left- most passage. The small picture shows a blowup of the truck, demonstrating the resolution of the data. Bill Stone.

122 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 complete three-dimensional image. high resolution cave map. For each scan, a generator, power In March, a second expe- cords, the LADAR device, two tri- dition collected water sam- pods, and a laptop computer had ples from pozas in the area to be hauled through the brush. and explored previously Heat and rain caused some difficul- unvisited sinkholes. Marcus ties with the electronics; the com- Gary, Robin Havens, Jim puter had to be placed on an ice Bowden, Ann Kristovich, chest to keep it from overheating. Karen Hohle, and Alan Riggs El Zacatón, Poza Caracol, Poza La spent a week diving and col- Pilita, and La Azufrosa were lecting data. The large Poza scanned during the expedition. We Tule was reached by much did not have time for Poza Verde chopping through high because of the amount of chopping reeds, only to discover that that would have been required. the water there is only 1 We also completed a scan of a meter deep. We identified room in Cavernas Cuarteles, a dry many other locations that cave. This produced a file of over a need further study. million and a half points that can be used to produce an extremely

Marcus Gary with the laser scanner in place in Cuarteles. The large root at left, the rubble heap below a skylight, and the skylight at center are conspicuous in the middle of the panorama. Bill Stone.

Se reportan los últimos estudios realizados en los cenotes del Rancho La Azufrosa, Tamaulipas. Se utilizó un radar laser (LADAR) para elaborar un mapa tridimensional detallado de las porciones no sumergidas de varios de los cenotes, así como de un salón en la Cueva Cuarteles. La figura muestra un panorama del salón en Cuarteles, basado en la intensidad del eco del rayo laser a 1.5 millones de puntos. Se tomaron datos de química de las aguas y muestras de las cubiertas de algas que cubren las paredes de algunos de los cenotes. También se alcanzó por tierra la Poza Tule, que parecía muy prometedora desde el aire, pero la profundidad máxima del agua no fue superior a 1 metro.

123 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

CAVE-RESCUE COURSES IN MEXICO

Antonio Aguirre Alvárez with a contribution by John Pint

ernard Tourte and Jean-Marc de Rescate e Investigación en where he was able to walk to an BGibelin of the Spéléo Secours Oquedades Naturales (URION). ambulance. He is caving again now. Français of the Fédération Française There were twelve days of training, There is going to be a third course de Spéléologie taught a cave-rescue six in Mexico City and six in the in November 2002. This course will course in Mexico during November Taxco, Guerrero, area, where prac- be in Chiapas, so we will have had and December 2000. Mexican tice was done in Resumidero La courses in central, northern, and cavers who had participated in the Joya and Zacatecolotla. southern Mexico. We hope to attract rescue of the Canadian Caver in After the course, members form- students from Veracruz and Oaxaca. Puebla in December 1999 were in- ed Espeleo Rescate México, a na- Before this training, there were vited to attend. [See AMCS Activi- tional cave-rescue organization. It many groups in Mexico interested ties Newsletter 24.] Twenty-six has already done a rescue from La in cave . Those who have cavers, mainly from Mexico City, Joya [see article elsewhere in this taken the courses are now the fifty- participated, including cavers from issue]. The first leader was Juan six members of Espeleo Rescate the team of the Mexican Montaño from the GEU. México, which is an organization of Red Cross, the Grupo Espeleológico A second course was held in San individuals, not groups, although Universitario, Grupo de Espeleo- Luis Potosí on December 15–24, individual members have access to rescate del Socorro Alpino de 2001. In addition to ten cavers who the equipment of groups they be- México (GER-SAM), and the Unión had taken the previous course, long to, such as the Red Cross. This there were thirty new stu- is the first real cave-rescue organi- Underground practive during the first dents, twenty-nine from zation in Mexico. Each state will rescue course. Courtesy of ERM. Mexico and one from . have a coordinator. There are now The same two instructors members of ERM from Mexico City, from France were there, and Michoacán, Chiapas, San Luis one new one from France Potosí, Guerrero, Nuevo Leon, and and one from . Seven Jalisco. Members in each area have days were spent working on local practices, but we plan to also the surface and three days in have national practice and training caves. Because of the large sessions around the country. There group, three caves were was one on March 15–17 at Sótano used for practice: Sótano de de los Hernández in Querétaro. Carbonera, Sótano de Pablo Cave-rescue seminars will train and Alderete, and Sótano del recruit additional members. We Encino. On the ninth day, also hope to train in cooperation cavers were derigging in with Italian, Spanish, and Belgian Sótano del Encino when a groups, with the Federación Espe- climber made a mistake try- leológica de America Latina y el ing to change ropes and be- Caribe (FEALC), and of course with came detached from both the National Cave Rescue Commis- ropes. By gripping both sion of the NSS. We are working ropes, he was able to stop hard to form a reliable national his fall 1 meter above the cave-rescue organization for Mexi- floor. He could not climb co. Our emergency contact email because of burns on his address is EspeleoRescateMexico@ hands, but the team had him yahoogrupos.com.mx. on the surface in 15 minutes, Many of the individuals in ERM

124 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Practicing pick-offs during the first training course. Courtesy of ERM. have twenty years of experience in caving and rescue. Some of them plan to visit all of the 1000-meter- deep caves in Mexico with all-Mexi- can teams, starting with Sótano de Ocotempa and Sistema Cheve in 2003.

En diciembre de 2000, espeleorescatistas franceses impartieron un curso de rescate en cavernas a espeleólogos mexicanos en la Ciudad de México y cuevas de Guerrero. Un segundo curso se llevó a cabo en San Luis Potosí en diciembre del 2001. Quienes participaron en dichos cursos fundaron Espeleo Rescate México, como una organización nacional de rescate en cavernas. La dirección de Internet para emergencias es [email protected].

Another Rescue Course On August 4, 2001, Susy and I the wall, and Sergio did the same to the level, we used an ingenious counter- were in Mexico City for a weekend other. Then he had me drill a hole for a system. The weight of a caver course on cave rescue given by an third bolt. It took me about half an hour is used to raise the victim, with no expert on the subject, Sergio Santana, to put in the anchor. I’d rather not think hauling required. We practiced this founder of URION. We left the big city, how long it might take to accomplish suspended from a tree branch, but in took to the expressways, and were the same thing while hanging beneath a cave the system works like this. The soon cruising among pine-covered an icy waterfall. Sergio then attached a counterweight person rappels down mountains, the weather cool and loop of 11-millimeter rope to these an- to the victim on a doubled rope that fresh. After a few hours, we arrived chors, and we attached a Z-rig pulley is attached to a pulley very near the at Zacatecolotla, a cave at a small system that can be used to pull up an lip, if possible. He attaches one end ranch near Taxco, Guerrera. Only accident victim. of the rope to the victim and then pre- when you approach closely in the un- What I found most interesting was pares to prusik up the other. Mean- dergrowth can you see that this is a the way he connected a pulley to a Petzl while a coordinator clips in to the vertical cave, with less than half a jammer to form a smooth-operating point where the pulley is anchored. meter of floor before a pitch of about auto-lock system that requires no at- The CW person climbs up his side of 5 meters. We were going to learn to tention. The secret is in the pulley’s con- the rope, reaches for the other rope, get an injured person up and out of struction: the sides are straight and and gently pulls the victim up, while this hole. We would start with two parallel, so that after inserting a biner he, of course, goes back down. One fundamental techniques for pulling crosswise through the holes, you can of the coordinator’s jobs is to stop the heavy . insert a second biner into the gap be- movement of the rope, whenever Both systems require secure an- tween the sides. A jammer clipped onto necessary, by simply grasping both chors for the ropes. There were two this second biner is in a perfect posi- sides of it below the pulley. Once the expansion bolts in the wall. Sergio tion to feed rope smoothly into the pul- victim reaches the pulley, the CW pointed out that both had been ley. In our practice session, the Z-rig person changes over to rappel and, driven in too far—by a famous was positioned not to haul the victim sitting at the bottom of the pit, feeds French rescue expert, no less. The from the bottom of the pit, but only to rope though his rack as the victim is rock had been chipped away around get him up over the edge. pulled up and over the lip with the one hole to make the bolt flush with To raise the victim up to the surface Z-rig.—John Pint

125 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

THE YUCATAN DEEP SPELEOLOGICAL DIVE TEAM

Andreas W. Matthes

ooking for new places to dive he team for our November 1999 percent oxygen), and our shallow Lor new underwater caves to ex- Tproject consisted of Andrew decompression gas was pure oxy- plore is an addiction one can have. Pitkin from the United Kingdom, gen. For each dive, three down-lines The Swiss-cheese-like limestone Doug Chapman from the United were placed. All decompression rock of the Yucatan Peninsula of States, and Andreas “Matt” Matthes gases and extra tanks were staged Mexico is one of the prime areas for from Germany but living in Mexico. on a weighted line that went to 55 underwater cave formation. The The one-week project was privately meters and had metal rings on it state of Yucatán is an area full of un- funded by the three divers, who had every 3 meters. A second down-line explored cenotes and only a few logistics help from Agustín García had two sets of double 95-cf steel people interested in exploring and Roberto Hashimoto, both Mexi- tanks attached to it, EAN 40 at 21 them. The Ecology Department of can nationals living in Mérida. At meters and oxygen at 6 meters. The Yucatán lists over 1700 cenotes. A Cenote Sabak-Ha, the team was third line was a #24 braided line lifetime of exploration is waiting helped by our trustworthy sherpas, deployed from our primary dive here. The difference between the Dionicio and Pedro, both residents reels that went all the way to the caves in Quintana Roo and those in of the poblado of Mucuyche. During bottom and provided a reference Yucatán is that the caves are deeper our dive at X-Kol Aak, we were during ascent and descent. No sup- in Yucatán, but much shorter in helped by the Mérida Fire Depart- port divers were used; we felt we length. ment, who sent a truck and three had enough safety margin in the The Yucatan Deep Speleological firemen with us. At Cenote Ucil we extra tanks on the lines. In addition Dive Team was formed in March were helped by three baseball play- to the computed decompression 1997 as a small and dedicated group ers and a very friendly policeman stops, we did extended 5-meter of cave and technical divers to find, from Cenotillo. All oxygen and he- stops and surface decompression of explore, map, and preserve the lium was organized and stored in between five and fifteen minutes deep sinkholes and cave systems of Roberto Hashimoto’s warehouse, pure oxygen. Post-dive the Yucatan Peninsula. Deep cen- and we were invited by Agustín exertion was kept to a minimum, otes and cave systems are a link to García to stay with him with all our which was an easy task because of understanding the geology and the gear. our excellent surface support crews. formation of the cave systems be- During our diving operations, All had to be done at fore and during the last ice ages. we used double steel 104-cubic-foot night, after our drive back to Méri- They are natural sources of fresh tanks in conjunction with 80-cf da. There is only one air-fill station water and also natural monuments stage bottles. Dives to a depth of 55 in Mérida, and we had to schedule to be preserved for coming genera- meters were conducted on air. On time late at night to fill or top off tions. We stress the importance of deeper dives we used 10/52 our tanks in order to let the trimix good landowner relations, and with or 10/60 (10 percent oxygen, 60 per- sit for eight to ten hours before the the permission of these landowners cent helium, and the rest nitrogen). next dive to insure that the compo- we publish our findings and maps Horizontal penetrations at a depth nents had fully mixed. to educate the public. We are well of 60 meters were done with 16/24 aware that there are other groups trimix. A total of fifteen dives were he cenotes we explored during and individuals with similar goals, conducted, eleven on mixed gas Tthis project were Sabak-Ha, and the Yucatan Deep Speleological and four on air. Decompression Ucil, and X-Kol Aak. All of these Team stresses the importance of tables were computed with Adept cenotes are in the state of Yucatán good relations and cooperation. and Proplanner software. As our between 55 and 120 kilometers from standard travel gas we opted for air Mérida. After exploring Sabak-Ha, This article appeared in somewhat or, on one dive, trimix 14/33. Our we saw the need to do comparison different form in Underwater Spele- intermediate decompression gas dives in the other deep cenotes to see ology, volume 20 number 1, 2000. was EAN 40 (air enriched to 40 if the others also had horizontal

126 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 passages around the 60-meter and was once the ceiling of this large after the dive one complete stage- 150-meter levels. Tom Iliffe had dome. At –65 meters, the diameter bottle setup, including the regulator, asked us if the cave passages in of the pit is about 75 meters. On was lost down the pit. It remained Yucatán are formed along faults November 16 and 17, 1998, Kashi at 87 meters for three months be- that follow the de Cleer and I returned to Sabak- fore being retrieved. There is a rings. From the few maps on hand, Ha for a closer look at the walls. We small side passage off the Passaje de it looks like there is a correlation came across a horizontal cave passage Sacrificios near its entrance called between the direction and orienta- heading west at a depth of 55 to 60 the Bone Step and Orange Walk. tion of passages and the rings of the meters for 129 meters to a terminal Before the November project, I meteor crater, but the caves we have breakdown. A cloud of millions of made a bounce dive in Sabak-Ha on seen do not look like they are little cave shrimps greeted us at the November 1, collecting water chem- formed on faults or fracture lines entrance, and farther into this pas- istry data with Tom Iliffe’s Hydro- like the ones in Bermuda. More sys- sage we found one of the largest lab to a depth of 122 meters. Then tems will have to be explored and populations of blind cave fish we on November 13, during a 60-meter surveyed to prove the theory. have ever seen at that depth. We acclimating dive for Andrew and While on a scouting trip to Yuca- counted thirteen with one sweep of Doug, we collected the missing sur- tán the year before, we came across the eye, and we named the passage vey data to link the east and west a huge water-filled depression the Blind Cave Fish Cafe. On May cave passages together in order to some 55 kilometers south of Mérida 20, 1999, Ronald Rumm and I re- produce a basic map. We also mea- named Sabak-Ha (turbid water), turned to see what the bottom did. sured the circumference at this and that is what it looks like. The We descended to a depth of 111 depth. To my knowledge this is the surface is a pool of green, uninvit- meters (365 feet), where I tied the only deep sinkhole in Yucatán that ing water about 60 by 40 meters in end of our exploration line to the has significant horizontal passages. size. The drop from ground level to wall. At –15 meters we found a bedding the water is about 8 meters, typical On August 16, a new cave pas- plane that discharges cooler fresh of the area. On descent, the green sage was found on the east side, water at a very slow rate. I think this gives way to crystal- opposite the entrance to the Blind can be seen in the Hydrolab data, clear water below 15 meters. The Cave Fish Cafe, at a depth of 65 too. One place at the bedding plane huge size of the sinkhole im- meters. It extends 123 meters into looks big enough to be penetrated pressed me quite a bit; I felt like an the bedrock, and the shallowest with sidemount gear. ant in a huge bowl. At –65 meters, a point, at –57 meters, is right at the On November 14, Andrew, Doug, hydrogen-sulfide layer with about end, where the passage splits into and I went for a dive to a planned 6-meter visibility is trapped at the two small leads. Close to the end, depth of 137 meters. During the halocline, the interface between there is a side passage that will be descent, Andrew had a problem fresh water above and brackish wa- passable only with side-mount gear. with a sticking inflator and had to ter below. At –87 meters is the top The main passage here is the Passaje abort at –97 meters. Doug and I con- of a talus cone, the breakdown that de Sacrificios, due to the fact that tinued to a depth of 120 meters, where we penetrated around 150 meters into a large cave passage that opened up even larger as we went. I tied the exploration line off at a depth of 147 meters (483 feet). Vis- ibility was excellent, over 30 meters, and there was no apparent flow. At this point, we were in a deep, horizontal passage with no walls, ceiling, or bottom to be seen. Weightless in a black void is true inner-space travel. After finishing our 3.5-hour decompression, we could hardly find words to describe it. We estimate the bottom to be at least 170 meters deep. On November 15, Andrew did a dive on the other side of the talus cone to a depth of 140 meters (459

Matt Matthes checking stage bottles for a dive at Sabak-Ha. Andrew Pitkin.

127 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 feet) and reported the same huge that should be waiting for us void Doug and I had experienced below. What we found was the day before. Joking around about an extremely strong hydro- what we would tell people we had gen sulfide layer that started found, we decided on nothing, a lot at –45 meters and went all of nothing. the way down to the bottom on a heavily silted talus cone heck Exley did a dive in X-Kol at –121 meters (397 feet). SAak on July 6, 1989, with Paul Visibility at this depth was de Loach and Hilario Hiler as sup- around 3 meters, and it took port. He reported a depth of 120 only a glance at each other meters. There is a story that a Coca to get the thumbs-up sign to Cola truck fell into it twenty years get out of there. On the way ago. We joked about having a soda up, we had to switch from at –120 meters, but we were con- our bottom gas to our travel cerned about the dehydrating effect air in the upper levels of that Matt Matthes checks decompression of caffeinated beverages. (Dehydra- H2S layer, which was not tion increases risk of the bends.) On comforting, to say the least. tanks a the start of a deep dive into November 17, the whole team went When we were finally above Sabak-Ha. Andrew Pitkin. to X-Kol Aak, some 84 kilometers the acid bath, we had to from Mérida, past the beautiful wash our burning faces with fresh mary light was dark gray, almost town of Izamal. With the superb water. Andrew could not see with black. help of the bomberos, we got all our his burning eyes for the better part tanks down to the water, which is of his decompression, and I had bout 120 kilometers east of around 8 meters below ground numb lips for three days. Needless AMérida lies the little town of level. The surface water is bright to say, we didn’t find the Coca Cola Cenotillo. The presidente of the green, but the surface conditions truck. After the dive, all our brass municipality told me about an did not hold us back, as we looked had turned completely black, and American who went down to the forward to the crystal-clear water the once light gray cord on my pri- bottom of Cenote Ucil many years ago. This turned out to have been with support from Paul de Loach and Hilario Hiler, on July 5, 1989. Other divers who have ex- plored this cenote are Oliver Knab in the spring of 1989 [see AMCS Activities Newsletter 19, pp. 59–61, which includes a map of the cen- ote], and Jim Coke with Jochen and Anne Warner on December 4, 1990. On subsequent dives, Jim Coke, Lorie Conlin, and Tom Young com- piled a survey of the upper dry cave and the cenote itself to a depth of 60 meters. The opening to a large and dry underground chamber is about 1 kilometer from the little town. Inside the dome-like cham- ber, sunbeams from a hole in the ceiling hit the water, and trees are growing close to the crystal-clear, deep-blue water. It is just beautiful. On November 18, our sherpas helped us get all the tanks, gear, and ropes down to a little platform at the water’s edge. It took about an hour to get all the lines and tanks in. While descending, for most of the dive we could see the circular walls of the chimney-like sink- hole. At –67 meters we encoun- tered a hydrogen sulfide layer and

128 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 halocline. We were relieved to find that the layer was very weak, and we passed through it to clear salt- water below. We reached the top of the talus cone at –91 meters, where we switched from our travel gas 14/33 to bottom mix 10/52. While laying our guideline, we swam to one of the walls and found the bot- tom to be 118 meters (387 feet) deep, with visibility around 30 meters. The diameter at the bottom is around 60 meters, and at a depth of 50 meters, about 30 meters. During our long and slow ascent, we circled the walls and found old fresh-water ducts, where a long time ago rain water was discharged into the then- dry pit. At a depth of 8 meters I found a little passage with a distinct but slow discharge of fresh water.

Equipo de Buceo Espeleológico Profundo de Yucatán

A diferencia de las cavernas subacuáticas de Quintana Roo, que suelen ser largas y poco profundas, los Cenotes de Yucatán son frecuentemente profundos, aunque rara vez presentan prolonga- ciones importantes. Durante 1999, los buzos del equipo exploraron varios de estos cenotes. En el Cenote Sabak-Ha se alcanzó la cumbre de una montaña de derrumbe a –87 m. Grandes túneles, a profundidades de hasta –140 metros, rodean a la montaña. También hay pasajes pequeños a –60 metros. El 17 de noviembre se buceó en el cenote X-Kol Aak. Una fuerte concentración de ácido sulfhídrico se detectó desde los –45 metros hasta el fondo, a –121 metros. En el Cenote Usil también se detectó ácido sulfhídrico, en concentraciones menores, en la interfase entre agua dulce y agua de mar, a –67 metros. En este cenote la cumbre de la montaña de derrumbe que ocupa su fondo está a –91 metros, y la profundidad máxima alcanzada en una de sus paredes es de 118 metros.

129 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

SOME QUINTANA ROO DIVING ADVENTURES

Fred Devos and Christophe Le Maillot

paved parking lot behind the lobby of an expensive hotel, while My side varied in direction from Atennis courts of the Puerto the upstream end tapered off be- northeast to northwest, and it was Aventuras resort is a unique dive neath the first tee on a golf course. not long before I had emptied my site. In the fall of 1997, a new cave To our dismay, the hole in the park- reel, tying off in large, unending system was found with some help ing lot was closed, and it once again tunnel. A 4-meter stalagmite divid- from the automobile and construc- catered to cars, not cavers. How- ing the passage more than made up tion industries. The weight of cars ever, the hole temporarily opened for the lack of other decorations. At and relentless pounding at the site again in August 1999, and Yair and the same time, Bernie was pushing of a future condominium contrib- I made two dives and discovered east and struggling through several uted to a collapse in the parking lot 600 more meters of passage in a new small and nasty areas. But persis- that revealed a tube full of clear upstream section, the Vintner. tence paid off. After spilling 500 water flowing toward the sea. (Or —Fred Devos meters of line, he also found pas- maybe it was caused the Mayan sage worth returning to. gods battling the onslaught of mod- nly the mosquitoes and ticks Actun Chen was soon surveyed ernization.) First to dive below the Oseemed to enjoy the 100-percent to more than 5700 meters of pas- 1.5-by-2.5-meter opening were Luis humidity in early April 1998. Bernd sage. A halocline is at –12 meters Fernando Martínez and Alejandro Birnbach and I wished we were as and a less pronounced one at –7 Elizondo. Kate Lewis, Yair Azubel, well adapted to the environment. A meters. The average depth is 12 Bernd Birnbach, and I made addi- forty-five minute hike through the meters and the maximum 22 meters. tional exploration and mapping damp jungle took us to Cenote Kop, Most sections are very large, but dives. the main entrance to Sistema Actun some major restrictions pose chal- Because of its proximity to the Chen, 7 kilometers south of Aku- lenges. Although eight other cenote sea, flow and visibility vary greatly mal. Entry is made difficult by the entrances have been discovered, the with the tides. Various sponges and fact that all equipment and tanks trek to Cenote Kop remained the clams decorate the walls, while lob- must be lowered 8 meters through easiest access during exploration. A sters, octopuses, and bristle worms a narrow crevice to reach the pool road to one entrance has subse- sneak through the brackish tunnels. of crystal-clear water. quently been made. Finds include bones believed to be After 250 meters of diving, we —Christophe Le Maillot of a young crocodile and more than found ourselves in small passages one empty Coke can. The contrast in unstable limestone, where visibil- n early May 1998 I finally found between nature and civilization ity quickly turned to zero. Several Ithe traces of an old trail rumored continued when Kate and I surfaced restrictions are navigable only with to lead to a little-known swimming at a second entrance in a part of the side-mount equipment, but hopes hole. My usual dive partners were marina now being used as a dol- for larger passage kept us squeez- working, so I had to play alone that phin enclosure. ing forward against the steady cur- day. Ten minutes of swinging a The map showed passages in rent. Continuing northeast, the cave machete took me to the twin cen- Sistema Valet up to 8 meters wide widens, but has few of the beauti- otes, which were later named Dos running 6 meters below three res- ful formations so abundant in Pies. Green surface water didn’t taurants, two streets, and several nearby systems. Some hundred hint at what lay deeper as I pushed shops and apartments. Our down- meters farther, the walls suddenly my reel through a narrow crack. A stream line ended below the front disappeared, and we found our- passage seemed to be leading me selves in an enormous 60-meter-wide east, and within a few minutes I had Adapted from material at www room, later named La Mancha. passed the dim light of a third small .aquaexploration.com/English/ There, the cave splits, and we each cenote entrance. A dark hole coaxed News. ©Aqua Exploration. decided to take a tunnel. me northwest, and I picked up the

130 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 pace. I’m not certain who was more startled when my fifty-watt light picked up the silvery scales of a twenty-pound tarpon. Seeing a large fish is not anticipated during a cave dive, and I’m sure that evo- lution had not prepared the tarpon for a close encounter with a cave diver. Knocking the light from my hand, the fish bounced heavily off my shoulder before finding a way past. Catching my breath, I continued northwest, spilling line in ever- widening passage. Limits on air turned the dive, and I had to leave further discoveries for the future. Surveying out, I envisioned the pos- sibilities. The immense Sistema Dos Ojos had downstream lines head- ing in this direction, and slightly to the west lay Sistema Nohoch Nah Chich, at the time the world’s long- est underwater cave. During the previous ten years, divers from all over the world had attempted to was only the second Mexican un- Birnbach had just kicked ass. It had connect these two huge systems, derwater cave known to have a taken them slightly more than two and now I was pushing my way di- divable connection to the sea. hours to add 500 meters of line to rectly between them. It was not Dos Pies now holds 3500 meters the 90 meters already there from a difficult to muster the motivation to of exploration line, connecting six previous French-Portuguese expe- return. entrances. Most passages lack for- dition. Sistema Minotauro, as it is Kate Lewis and Daniel Riordan mations, and although the average now known, is located 5 kilometers each joined me for a dive, and by size is large, several restrictions south of Puerto Aventuras on the July we had managed to discover limit back-mount divers. A significant land of Don Inocencio. It is nestled over 3300 meters of passage. The flow comes from sources farther between Sistema Taj Mahal to the farther upstream we went, the inland, but a connection to Dos Ojos south and Sistema Actun Koh to the larger the passage seemed to be, or Nohoch Nah Chich remains a north. with some bedding-plane ceilings dream.—Fred Devos The following day, Bernie, Kate stretching unsupported 50 meters Lewis, and I bounced along the in every direction. Cars and trucks e knew from their big smiles rough road in hopes of further ex- on Highway 307 pass some 12 Won the rainy November 1998 ploration. The steep collapse en- meters above. day that Daniel Riordan and Bernd trance and an unfinished ladder On July 19, I hauled three tanks to the water and, with side mount- ing, proceeded to push through downstream restrictions. Larger passage lured me on, but I periodi- cally paused to make sure I would be able to swim out against the mounting current. Before the dive, I had loaded my reel with almost 500 meters of line, and soon the line remaining would take me only a few more meters. But luck was with me, as coconut shells on the floor and a dim light in the distance fore- shadowed a surprise. It wasn’t un- til my head broke the surface that I understood where I was. Dos Pies Yair Ozubel in the parking lot entrance to Valet. Fred Devos.

131 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

132 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 made our entry slow and precari- ous. The fifteen minutes following our immersion were spent battling the numerous restrictions in the beginning of the main upstream passage. Fine silt was pushed quickly behind us by the rapid flow in this narrow part of the cave. From a shallow 3 meters, the passage dropped to 10 meters and became wide. With Kate and Bernie lead- ing, we quickly found what we were looking for, a colorful clothes- pin left on the line the previous day to indicate a lead. We headed south- west through virgin cave, and the tunnel now opened up into a small, decorated room that was made grander by knowing it was being unveiled for the first time. This larger passage ended, and once again we found ourselves inching through restrictions. Bellies rub- bing, we were careful not to damage fragile formations on the ceiling. Farther northwest, we found an opening later named Cenote Estre- lla. Hitting thirds, we began to sur- vey back along the 500 meters of new line. A week later, Bernie and I headed north down another promising pas- sage. We reached –9 meters, swim- ming now in a well-defined halo- cline where we could see fresh water flowing steadily over the heavier salt water. White walls emphasized the effect. This section ended in a room measuring over 30 meters across. A northeast passage origi- nating here was later found to con- nect to the main upstream line, forming a popular loop called La Vuelta. We picked up our passage on the other side of the room and contin- ued north. Another 180 meters took us to a large collapse, Cenote Escalera. Numerous attempts have failed to find a way through this mass of unstable rock. Having ex- plored about 500 meters, we sur- veyed out. Most of the downstream part of Sistema Minotauro is severely re- stricted, and only side-mounts will pass. Bernd Birnbach completed most of the work in this area, fol- lowing earlier dives by Bil Phillips and Sam Meacham. Attempts to connect to Minotauro have added

133 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

600 meters in Cenote Escondido, Christophe Le Maillot, Bernd Birn- and Fox Hole. Airbells and lime- barely 150 meters from Minotauro’s bach, Kate Lewis, Yair Azubel, and stone daggers adorn the ceilings, main entrance, and 200 meters in I began diving the system. A couple while a shimmering halocline hov- Taj Mahal, but tiny leads and loose thousand meters of unknotted line ers at –12 meters. Both the upstream rocks never seemed to yield connec- was removed and replaced with and downstream lines form loops. tions. Sistema Minotauro is 4200 surveyed knotted line. Dental floss An upstream area known as The meters long.—Christophe Le Maillot used by the French for mapping lit- Attic tests divers’ buoyancy control tered the floor of the cave, and where depths rise to less than 2 istema Actun Koh was initially many frustrating hours were spent meters in low passage. Wonder- Sexplored in 1996 by German removing it. During the following land, off the downstream loop, me- Mendoza and a group of French eight months, we doubled the size anders through grand arrays of col- divers that included Christian of the system, to about 5300 meters. orful pillars, flowstone, and ancient Thomas, Claude Touloumdjian, Large passages averaging 11 waterfalls. Many think Actun Koh and Edsel Rios. The cave lay dor- meters in depth connect four cenotes, is the best cave dive north of mant until the spring of 1997, when Actun Koh, Dear’s Den, Overpass, Akumal.—Fred Devos

Se describen brevemente una serie de exploraciones de espeleobuceo realizadas a fines de los noventas en la Riviera Maya, una porción de la Península de Yucatán en la costa del mar Caribe. El sistema Valet se descubrió merced a un colapso que ocurrió en un estacionamiento del hotel de Puerto Aventuras.

134 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

PROYECTO ESPELEOLÓGICO SIERRA OXMOLÓN

Jerry Fant

he Sierra Oxmolón area has hard to believe that it had been Dale, and Denise began to survey Tbeen intriguing for many years. missed before, but the entrance is Cueva del Hoyo Inclinado, Sótano The potential shown by the density heavily vegetated and very easy to del Grito, which had been found of caves south of the area and the pass by without noticing. Later that but not explored in 2000, and vast dolines on the topographic day, Jerry and Enora started out for Sótano del Rayo de Luz, just found map led to the creation of the a large sink shown on the topo map. on this trip. Cueva del Hoyo Incli- Proyecto Espeleológico Sierra Several minor sinks were entered. nado was hard to find again, be- Oxmolón. Discussions with Terry All were plugged with clay or cause clear-cutting had left it in the Raines, Peter Sprouse, William breakdown. The large sink was middle of a corn field. Meanwhile, Russell, Joe Ivy, and others indi- never reached; it seemed to keep James, Jerry, and Enora went up to cated that little was known about getting farther away. Sótano del Rayo de Luz and began the area. The project area in San That evening Peter Sprouse, Terri to map the route down to the flow- Luis Potosí includes the villages of Whitfield, James Lopez, Dale Bar- stone bridge. A battery-powered Tonzozob, La Reforma, La Cruz de nard, and Denise Pendergast ar- drill was handy for setting up four Guadalupe, La Cuchilla, San Benito, rived. The team also got the news rebelays. James was the first to de- Oxmolón, Xopoy, Los Charcas, El that the llano could not be used for scend the last stretch, which landed Otate, La Cueva, Tanquizul, Tan- camping this time. So they moved on a ledge overlooking another chopal, La Brecha, and Aguacate. to Carlos and Señor Perez’s house drop. Deciding it would be better Until recently, there were no roads, in the village. The new camp was to wait until the others could join but now roads have reached La literally in their front yard, and the in, it was left until a survey trip. A Cuchilla, La Brecha, Aguacate, and use of their corn bin for base camp, good climbing lead was seen. Tanquizul, opening up the south- dry and warm with cement walls Tuesday started out drizzly, ern, eastern, and western fringes of and lanterns burning into the late spoiling the enthusiasm of every- the area. The El Abra limestone in night hours, was welcome during one. Getting up was hard, except for the area gives depth potentials of the rainy first three days. But their the rooster. Carlos and Señor Perez 300 to 1000 meters. The area is char- rooster was in charge of waking up were ready for a short hike to show acterized by deep dolines and all of La Brecha at 4:00 A.M., 5:00 everyone two caves. Dale, Denise, weathered karst, covered by lush A.M., and 6:00 A.M. No one was ex- James, Jerry, and Enora put on their tropical hardwood jungle. empt from the alarms. rain gear and packs to follow the The goals of the project are to That evening Peter, James, Terri, guides into the jungle. After dodg- explore and survey the caves of the Jerry, and Enora mapped the first ing mud puddles on the road for 1.5 Sierra Oxmolón, to study the hy- cave of the trip. The cave was kilometers toward La Linja, they drology and cave biology of the named Cueva No Se after someone took a trail to the east. Not far off area, and to promote cultural ex- who was asked the name replied, the road was a small, inconspicu- change with the local people. “I don’t know.” The cave is short, ous entrance. It didn’t look like with one upper-level crawl into a much, but James, Jerry, and Enora hanksgiving week 2001 was vampire-bat roost. Some excitement peeked inside to see passage that Tone year after the last visit to was caused when James found re- kept going. They scooped about 100 the La Brecha area. Some old faces mains that might be human. Later meters in Paxal Ita Te to a 17-meter were along, and there were some in the trip they realized that the drop that looked good. Outside, the new ones. On Sunday, November molars in the fragment of rear jaw weather had not changed, and ev- 18, Enora and Jerry Fant set up were really those of a javelina. eryone was eager to continue. Back camp at the old site in a llano and Monday it was decided to finish across the road on the jungle trail, found a cave just 10 meters from the up the caves on the hill beside everyone trudged along trying to path to camp, down in a sink. It is Cueva Pisos Falsos. Peter, Terri, guess where the guides had gotten

135 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 to ahead. The terrain was up and return by another trail yield- down over weathered karst. Small ed more dolines and two sinks were everywhere, and a fis- more pits, very small, among sure was passed but left for another coffee and bananas. Back in time. The guides stopped, them- camp, Peter and Terri eagerly selves confused in the jungle, but heard about the ten new they were soon on the trail to an- caves, some with good poten- other cave, Cueva Calavera del tial. Jabalí. It has a large entrance, and Everyone except Peter and everyone stayed dry while poking Terri was worn out from the around. A complete skull of a jav- 4.5 kilometers of hiking up elina was found near the end of the and down dolines. After cave, and this identified the past lunch, though, virgin passage owner of the teeth and jaw found in Paxal Ita Te was waiting. earlier. Once the GPS units had got- Peter, Terri, and Enora began ten their bearings, it was off again the survey from the entrance, into the rain. Nobody wanted to while James and Jerry rigged check out a small hole filled with the pit and began to survey mud that was seen in a coffee field. from there. Two bolts were Over a ridge and down into another used to rig the 17-meter pit, sink, James climbed down into a which led to a small canyon hole. He climbed out to report a that ended after 15 meters of chamber over 30 meters across and tight passage. When they re- James Lopez in the entrance to 10 meters tall, with no leads. So on turned from surveying that Sótano del Rayo de Luz. Jerry Fant. into the jungle, which, though it area, no one was at the en- had quit raining, was becoming trance, but the others’ gear was still Waking early to the rooster on quite steamy. After about another there. They had found a small room Wednesday, everyone’s thoughts half-kilometer, up out of one large above the pit, with a passage lead- were on a cave that was going big, sink and down into another, a small ing out of it up high. Following this, with one team going to push the entrance was pointed out. James James and Jerry soon went down flowstone bridge in Sótano del and Jerry quickly scrambled into some short climbs into a large room, Rayo de Luz and the second going the entrance and disappeared down where there was still no sign of to continue in Paxal Ita Te. James, a short climb. They explored about Peter’s group, except for survey Dale, and Jerry went into Rayo de 30 meters to a small room with two flagging that kept going in passage Luz in perfect weather. There they pots catching drips from the ceiling. that kept getting bigger, still trend- started the survey and worked their After another 60 meters, the cave ing down short climbs. Several hun- way down to the last rebelay, plan- was still going, so they returned, dred meters of passage had been ning to check out the lead seen ear- lest they be called scoopers. A short surveyed by the time James and lier. James descended farther to a distance farther into the jungle a Jerry caught up with them. Then the flowstone ledge, got off rope, and small pit was found. The hike was passage led to a large drop into a waited for the others to join him. starting to take its toll, so everyone dark canyon, and, having no rope, Jerry descended next, discovering decided to head back to camp. The they all decided to call it a day. that they had passed the lead and were only 25 meters above the bot- tom of the cave. The survey was taken on down to the bottom, 90 meters deep. On the way out, the route into the promising canyon, an easy climb from a ledge, was spot- ted. They did not have the drill with them, so the 60-degree slope up 18 meters will have to wait until an- other trip. On the surface, a huge The Perez family, hosts in La Brecha, with Peter Sprouse, Terri Whitfield, Denise Prendergast, Dale Barnard, Enora Fant, Jerry Fant, and James Lopez; Thanksgiving 2001. Jerry Fant.

136 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

thunderstorm awaited the crew as CAVES IN THE LA BRECHA AREA they made their way up past the rebelays. The rope was left rigged 001 Sótano del Rayo de Luz 021 Paxal Pach Ja at the pit to avoid dodging lightning 002 Cueva del Cielo Enciendiendo 022 sink lead any longer than necessary, and the 003 Sótano Cerca Talabja 023 Sótano de Plátanos dash for camp was made over a 004 Cueva No Se 024 sink lead flooded trail. How much water had 005 Cueva Tres Raices 025 sink lead the other party seen? Ita Te seemed 007 Cueva Pisos Falsos 026 Sótano de los Espeleólogos to take a lot of water, judging by the 008 Sótano del Cañón Barba Perdidos (or Jol Quili) clean-washed rocks in the entrance 009 Cueva del Hoyo Inclinado 027 Sótano de Huasteca (or Jol sections. 010 Sótano de Chuchumbex Quele) After eight hours in Ita Te, that 011 Sótano del Grito 028 Sótano de La Linja (or Sigui Jol) team made their way back to camp 012 Cueva al Brate 029 Sotanito del Baño to tell tales of more pits and huge 013 Cueva del Agua 030 Sotanito de la Rota Botella rooms. They had not noticed the 014 Paxal Ita Te 031 Sótano de la Araña Blanca rain while they were in the cave. 015 Sótano del Grieta Chica 033 Cueva de Casa They had surveyed down the big 017 Sótano del Camino 034 Cueva de La Brecha drop, which was actually two 018 Cueva Calavera del Jabalí 035 Sotanito de Nada drops, of 6 and 15 meters. Thwy led 019 Cueva de la Sala Grande 036 Cueva del Pato to another drop of about 30 meters, 020 unexplored cave 039 Cueva del Camino which Terri descended to still an- other drop that needed another rope. Back up in the canyon, a 7- meter drop was located but not de- scended. The canyon continued and soon led to a passage off to the south. They pushed on, and the south branch began to descend into a huge chamber they called The

137 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

138 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

139 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Entrance Scale 1 3 5 8 12 0 2 4 6 10 meters

TT

Paxal Pach Ja PESO 021 La Brecha, Municipio de Aquismon - San Luis Potosi, Mexico Proyecto Espeleologico Sierra Oxmolon

Length 103.35 meters Depth 16.11 meters

Surveyed January 9, 2002 By: Jerry Fant Enora Fant Entrance

True North Magnectic North -6.5*

Upper Level Canyon Continues

TT

Drain Plugged With Breakdown

Draft by Jerry Fant (c) Proyecto Espeleologico Sierra Oxmolon 2002

140 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Cueva Tres Raices PESO 015 La Brecha, Municipio de Aquismon - San Luis Potosi, Mexico Proyecto Espeleologico Sierra Oxmolon Length 86.3 meters Depth 9.9 meters

Surveyed November 19, 2001 Peter Sprouse, Terri Whitfield Dale Barnard, Denise Pendergast

Entrance Pit 7.8 meters True North Walls Compilation

Profile View Rotated 45*

Entrance Pit 7.8 meters 0

Entrance Low -2 Entrance Low -4

Scale -6 0 1 2 3456 meters -8

-10

Draft by Jerry Fant (c) Proyecto Espeleologico Sierra Oxmolon 2001

Cueva del Hoyo Inclinado PESO 009 La Brecha, Municipio de Aquismon - San Luis Potosi, Mexico Entrances TT Proyecto Espeleologico Sierra Oxmolon Length 43.1 meters Depth 21.3 meters

Surveyed November 19, 2001 Peter Sprouse, Terri Whitfield Dale Barnard, Denise Pendergast

Pit 17.2 meters Entrances

0

Too Tight

-5

True North Walls Compilation Pit 17.2 meters

-10 Too Tight

Scale -15 0 1 2345 meters

-20 Drain Plugged With Breakdown -21.3 Draft by Jerry Fant (c) Proyecto Espeleologico Sierra Oxmolon 2001

141 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

142 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Borehole. found near there on Monday. Dale cavers had not shown up. Later, On Thursday, Peter, Terri, James, finished sketching the big pit and back at La Brecha, a short ridgewalk and Jerry went deep into Ita Te, lugged the 100-meter rope over found another small pit, Sótano de surveying their way down the 30- to Sótano del Grieta Chica. This la Araña Blanca, and a small shel- meter drop. Jerry rigged the follow- proved to be 10 meters deep, into a ter cave behind Sótano del Rayo de ing drop, the 14-meter Dragon’s small room with two bolting leads, Luz. Before dark, Carlos showed Back, with flowstone cascades most one at each end. Both have flow- them three more caves near or right of the way down. The passage at the stone cascading out of them, and in the village. One by the road was bottom goes a short distance before both are very near the surface. The full of trash and needs to be cleaned ending in a drain filled with break- cave is 13 meters deep and over 30 out before it is entered. One pit in down. Back above that drop, the meters long. the sink across from Carlos’s house survey went around several corners After almost everyone had packed was only 7 meters deep and led to in a passage off the 30-meter drop, up and headed home on Friday, a small room and a very small pas- to be stopped this time by flow- Enora and Jerry tried to survey a sage that soon dropped another 6 stone. After the lower part of the small passage near the entrance of meters to a mud block. The pit had cave was derigged, attention turned Ita Te, but the instruments were human feces at the surface and to the 7-meter drop seen the day found to be fogged up. The passage down the drop, so it was named before; maybe a way on could be was pushed for about 100 meters to Sotanito del Baño. found there. It led to a small room where it was blocked by flowstone. The next morning it was cold at with an even smaller passage lead- After taking some pictures of the 5:00 A.M. They drove in the dark to ing out of it. After 15 meters, this entrance, they went ridgewalking La Cuchilla, where Señor Perez was crawl opened up into a room filled between La Brecha and La Linja. working and wanted to show them with breakdown. Two drains were Several karsty areas were located a big cave before work. The cave is impassable, but water could be that will need thorough investiga- located in a huge sink and has a heard running below. An upper tion, and two small pits were found. short climb down into a large room. lead could be seen, but reaching it Before they drove away from La The drain from this room is blocked, will require bolting. All the easy Brecha, they were told about three but by climbing over the flowstone, leads in Paxal Ita Te had been sur- more pits that would have to wait another passage is reached that has veyed, and it was time to head back until the January trip. a 7-meter pit, supposedly to lots of to camp. cave. Back at camp, Carlos and Jerry Meanwhile, Dale, Denise, and anuary 6, 2002, found Enora and spent two hours digging open a Enora went to derig Rayo de Luz JJerry Fant back at La Brecha. Ita small cave there, but it went only 5 and survey a small pit Enora had Te was 672 meters long and 100 meters before pinching in flowstone meters deep, and hopes and mud. Later in the long day, Guide Carlos Perez, Jerry Fant, and were high for making it Enora and Jerry went to Sótano de James Lopez hike through banana longer and deeper. Several la Araña Blanca to push and map others were to join them on this cave. They needed to clear trees. Enora Fant. Monday to help with that some vegetation from the entrance. cave and others found in The first pitch landed 6 meters November. On the way out down on a sloping breakdown from Aquismón, a stop was floor. A rebelay was needed for the made at the lanim (naci- second drop, 9 meters. Several miento) to see if it was still small climbs led down to a bottom full of water. It was, only 8 where the passage becomes too meters lower than during a small to follow, although slight air- visit in 2000. This is a major flow was felt. access into the river that On Wednesday, a new route to drains the mountains, and Paxal Pach Ja was found, eliminating locals have said it is 2 kilo- 3 kilometers of hiking. The survey meters long. Several of the progressed rapidly into the canyon people given rides on the that James Lopez and Jerry Fant had road reported many more left in November. Four hours were caves and pits. Camp was spent surveying. That night was very cold, but dry. spent back in Aquismón eating din- Monday the Fants went ner with Mike Walsh and Ben Kim into Aquismón for needed and talking about Walsh’s recent permissions, a change from flight over the area looking for new earlier visits. Carlos Perez caves. helped with the authorities, On Thursday, Carlos accompa- and they got permission for nied Enora and Jerry to Paxal Pach the project. The expected Ja, where the survey was completed

143 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 and Carlos found a pot full of wa- during the rainy season. Botella squeezed though and entered a ter near the end. The cave ends af- surveyed out to 17 meters long and crawlway that soon led to another ter 103 meters in flowstone fill, with 13 deep. On the climb to the surface, entrance. So much for the strong roots coming in from the surface. a large rock collapsed and hit Jerry breeze. Later, after the truck was On the hike back to camp, several in the leg. packed, Carlos offered to show sinks were looked into. One sink The last day, Friday, things got off them another cave, near his father- just below the trail yielded Sotanito to a slow start. Finally a hike was in-law’s house in La Laja. His father- de Nada, which had a horizontal made to Sótano del Camino to sur- in-law carries water quite a ways entrance to a 7.4-meter drop into a vey and push. This entrance was and wanted help locating a new small room that Enora, who drop- located but not entered during the source close to home. The cave ped into it with the tape, found long hike in November. Things ended up being closer to San Miguel didn’t go. After dinner they made must have looked different in the than La Laja, and it has a nice walk- the short walk to the sink across the rain, because it turned out to be in entrance. It continued 50 meters road to Cueva de la Rota Botella to only an open fissure 4 meters deep. to the window of another entrance, begin the survey. The entrance was It was a short hike over to Cueva and after another 50 meters flow- found to be climbable, over crum- Calavera del Jabalí. The large, im- stone almost blocked progress. Sev- bly walls and broken glass. It pressive entrance to this cave mea- eral climbs up and down for an- dropped 7 meters into a small room sures 6 meters wide and 6 meters other 100 meters led to a 5-meter with flowstone-covered walls and high. Ten meters inside, a large pit. Rope and vertical gear had been more broken glass. A small squeeze flowstone mass rises 5 meters from left at the entrance and were easily opens up into another small room the floor. The cave soon trends up- retrieved. At the bottom of the pit with more broken glass and vials ward into a large room blocked by were two drains that did not go. for veterinary medicine. A tiny flowstone. During the Thanksgiving Beyond was big canyon to several drain was pushed into small pas- trip, a strong breeze was felt going hundred meters more passage. But sage that soon became too small. through the flowstone here. After Carlos and his family were waiting Lots of water flows through here they finished the survey, Jerry in the rain, so the cave was left going.

144 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

Proyecto Espeleológico Sierra Oxmolón

Los nuevos caminos han hecho accesibles las montañas al oeste de Aquismón, San Luis Potosí. Algunas cuevas, en su mayoría pequeñas, se descubrieron cerca del poblado de La Brecha.

145 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

FILO DE CABALLO, GUERRERO

Ramón Espinasa-Pereña

ocated to the west of Chil higher gave us hope for a very deep Fresno, a small (well, tiny) village Lpancingo, the capital of the cave in the plateau. of about four houses, is about 200 state of Guerrero, the Filo de Caba- The third trip was ridgewalking meters farther down the road. The llo area first attracted my attention on the northern plateau, where we locals were quite friendly and im- in the early days of 1986, during an had seen a huge depression on mediately showed us their local expedition with Italian cavers, aerial photos. The depression had garbage-dump sótanos, which look- when I saw it from the Huacalapan- formed, we later found out, in the ed okay, except for all the trash that Omiltemi plateau, site of the longest core of a granite intrusion onto the had been thrown into them. We will cave in Guerrero, Cueva del Borrego, limestone. Ignoring for the time leave those for the time when Filo and the unfinished Sumidero de being the many large dolines near de Caballo has its own caving club. Xocomanetlán. Unfortunately, Puerto Fresno, where we had park- We camped by the road, and the many other projects prevented us ed my truck, Ruthy Diamant, Sergio following day we woke up early to from visiting this area until 1998. Nuño, and I walked along the go check a series of large dolines After getting aerial photographs limestone-intrusive contact to the seen on the aerial photos in a place of the area, we made four scouting bottom of the depression. We were we later found out is called Agua trips and located many good-looking impressed by a headwall over 70 de la Golondrina. We drove through entrances over a two-year period. meters high, but very disappointed a gorgeous forest among tens of The area consists of three main when we found that the three large small and large dolines until we limestone plateaus separated by streams that drain over 3 square reached the main depression. We valleys excavated down into other kilometers disappear in a huge walked down a ravine and were rocks. On the first scouting trip, mud-choked plain at the base of the soon walking on the bottom, where which was mainly to get to know wall. There was not even a tiny hole three small arroyos that carry in- the roads in the area, we met Don in the limestone. The depression is termittent streams join. Around a Florentino Merino in the small vil- over 300 meters deep and 3 kilome- corner we came to the entrance of lage of Corralitos, in the center of ters long, and three hours of uphill Sumidero de Agua de la Golon- the middle plateau, who has been struggling took us back to the drina, a good 20 meters high by 10 very helpful both in showing us Puerto Fresno area. About a hun- meters wide. Sergio and I immedi- entrances and obtaining access to all dred meters from the truck, the path ately turned on our lights and en- the cave areas. The second scouting we were following passed by the tered. A few tens of meters in, we trip was to the southern plateau, side of a tiny doline in the bottom came to a series of downclimbs that where locals at Filo de Caballo took of a ravine. Though we were very eventually took us to the edge of a us on an overgrown road to Cueva tired, we decided to give it a look, 15-meter pitch. At the bottom, a de la Majada, which has a very nice just to be thorough. Sergio went large stream could be heard, and entrance that was taking a small down, and his yells of excitement the cave was sucking air hard. stream, and they also mentioned a made Ruthy and me follow. Al- In the summer of 2000, a fourth sinking stream and many other though the entrance at the bottom recce trip was organized. Gustavo caves at a place called Los Otates. is not large, it immediately drops Vela, a Grupo Espeleológico Uni- We then followed the main road down a vertical pitch. Rocks thrown versitario caver recently transferred across the plateau and down to the down fell free for 3.5 seconds and to the Sociedad Mexicana de Explo- town of Yextla, where Don Flor had then rattled on out of hearing, mak- raciones Subterráneas, and the told us there was a large cave. This ing us calculate a depth of at least SMES core, Ruthy and I, were the turned out to be Yextla’s main water 70 meters. A few bats, disturbed by team. We spent all the first day supply, a large, enterable resur- the noise, flew out of the pit. checking the high area on the gence. Majada, Los Otates, and After we got back to the truck, we middle plateau, where every sur- other deep dolines 1400 meters discovered that Rancho de Puerto face is either a doline slope or a

146 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 doline edge. We found a few small resurgence with 5-by-10-meter pas- famous in the whole region. We holes, two cave remnants, and at sage that ends in a silt fill after about found a logging road going to the least three old poppy fields. Appar- 200 meters. The guide insisted that ridge above the actual sumidero, ently no large-scale logging has he had seen a very narrow crawl- where some locals told us about a occurred in many years, but there way at the end that leads to water, path going down toward the sink. are quite a few logging roads. We but we never saw it. Of course, this The owner of the whole area was camped by one of them, cooking was a ridgewalking trip, so we only there, and he said nobody ever goes under a large yellow tarp, since it had two flashlights, and we might beyond a field right at the edge of continued to rain, as it had been have missed a narrow crawlway. On the gorge. He said he had never most of the day. The next morning, our way back toward Corralitos we seen a cave there and had followed a Wednesday, I went for a walk went through what we called The the water to where it disappears while Ruthy and Gustavo slept, and Valley of Ten Thousand Dolines, among boulders, but we were I found that we had camped about and that is about the number of de- doubtful. 100 meters from the largest flower- pressions we checked. Most are Friday was actually a clear day, ing field I’ve ever seen, at least 100 plugged with silt or just too narrow, so taking advantage of the sun we by 50 meters. We decided to go back but a few have going cave. One is decided on a little bit of canyon- to Corralitos, where Don Flor lives. the entrance to a large chamber, eering. When we reached the river We managed to get the truck stuck maybe 20 meters in diameter, but it it was swollen from the previous in the first available drainage ditch ended in collapse. Nearby, a stream- days’ rains, so we went back up to by the side of the road and spent sink was found that would take lad- the ridge for a different approach. most of the day getting it unstuck, der or rope to check thoroughly, Taking the old path, we reached a eventually, with the help of a but, considering the size of the col, probably the ancient surface manual winch that was loaned, to- stream entering it, is definitely course of the river, at the field above gether with a guy to operate it, by worth returning to. Still, we had not the sink point, and at the bottom of Don Flor after I had walked down found anything very exciting. the field we were at the edge of the to town in search of help. That We were rained on fairly steadily, gorge. To our right, a large headwall night, Don Flor introduced us to the except for short intervals of fog and loomed, but vegetation prevented field’s owners and explained to drizzle and the occasional cloud- us from seeing our surroundings them that we are only looking for burst. With the weather as it was, clearly. Curiously, no river could be caves and sótanos and therefore nobody felt like going up to the heard below. Carefully, as the they should not shoot us if we met southern plateau, so we decided to gorge’s edge was very loose, we at the field. check on a lead given to us on our moved toward the headwall, and Thursday morning Don Flor ar- first recce trip. El Resumidero is when we reached it, we suddenly ranged for a guide to take us to a located at the bottom of a very deep burst out of the undergrowth to resurgence about 300 meters below barranca east of the main part of the find ourselves in front of an awe- Corralitos. The actual resurgence southern plateau and just southeast some sight. We had come out at a was sumped, although the guide of the town of Carrizal de Bravo. ledge on the gorge, already under insisted you can get through in dry The water supposedly passes 1 ki- the dripline of a truly majestic en- times, when no water flows; he lometer on a straight line and about trance at least 100 meters high and himself had entered it, getting wet 300 meters vertically through the some 80 meters wide. By a series of only to the chest. Above that, Cue- hill to come out of Cueva de la traverses we managed to reach the va de las Bailadoras is a nice fossil Mano, near the town of Pasclar and bottom of the gorge at a point al- ready at least 150 meters beyond the dripline, where the entire cave fun- neled down to 40 meters wide, with a “low” ceiling about 15 meters high. That is as far as natural light goes. Although no water was flow- ing in the gorge, going upstream in it would surely would have taken us to the actual river sink. It is ob- vious from the vegetation and dust that this entrance has not been used by the stream for centuries. Pro- ceeding into the cave below the low ceiling, which lasted for some 50 meters, we came into a room 100 meters in diameter. To our right we Landscape in the Filo de Caballo area. Ramón Espinasa.

147 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 could hear the water, but we first went through a natural bridge to passage going steeply downward, went left, thinking of going around emerge at the bottom of the third with the stream cascading among the perimeter. At the high end of the doline, crossed it, and sank again large boulders. We caught up with room to the left we found a large at the other end. Mist and vegeta- them when they reached the edge and very beautiful skylight and an tion prevented a clear view until we of a 25-meter pitch with the full upstream canyon passage that was were right at that sink. The water force of the water going down it. not pursued. Continuing our pe- went into a nice passage about 3 The ceiling had abruptly come rimeter walk, we found another meters wide by 7 meters high. With down, and the airflow in this sec- lead at the very top of the break- the batteries of my flashlight dying tion was awesome. A side passage down chamber. Ruthy and Gustavo out and thunder starting to be heard provided an easier option than the followed it to the river, appearing outside, I took only a quick look at thunder of the main pitch, and we and disappearing in the break- the stream passage, which soon were soon in the passage below. We down. Finally, we headed down to degenerated to a series of narrow, leapfrogged ahead through a much the bottom of the room. The roar of parallel joints and crawlways. Some more horizontal passage, still fol- water was very impressive as we airflow could be felt in places, but I lowing the stream and air. Passing neared the end of the breakdown could not trace it to a particular a few side leads, we eventually pile, where the river emerged from crawl. All in all, a worthwhile en- came to the edge of a pool in a mar- the boulders to flow into a passage trance, particularly considering the velous clean-washed and perfectly at least 30 or 40 meters tall and depth potential. We continued to circular tube 15 meters in diameter. about 20 meters wide. Very notice- our campsite at Puerto Hondo in A near-swim followed, and we were able airflow followed the water. the gathering rain, cooked our sup- soon admiring some gorgeous Though very excited about this dis- per under the tarp in the rain, put flowstone coming in from the right, covery, we stopped at the first pool up our soggy tents in the rain, and just before an unclimbable pitch that required immersion, worried then got rained on all night. into a deep pool. A high ledge got about what the weather might be Saturday dawned with partially us into a series of side passages that doing outside. Two flashlights for clear skies. Near the campsite, at a connected to the stream passage three people in that size of passage viewpoint right at the edge of the higher up and also led to a higher can be scary. cliffs that limit the southern plateau ledge farther downstream, from We drove, in gathering fog, toward on the south, we saw range after which we could see a giant passage Puerto Hondo, on the southern pla- range of mountains to where a very heading off into the darkness. Our teau. On the way we stopped near fine horizontal line marked the ho- two teams had surveyed a total of a marble quarry to check a large rizon, the Pacific Ocean, about 70 over a kilometer, and we decided doline belonging, I think, to the kilometers away in a straight line. to head out. After an interminable drainage of Yextla and therefore Unfortunately, this view lasted for hike on which we gained over 250 having at least 1200 meters of depth about five minutes, before we were meters of elevation, more than half potential. Like most large dolines surrounded again by mist rising of that in the cave, we reached the in the area, this one contained what from the valley bottom. As we campsite. at first seemed to be three smaller cooked breakfast, it started raining November 3 saw Humberto dolines at its bottom. The highest again, damping any intentions we “Tachi” Tachiquin and Gustavo one looked good, taking surface might have had about proceeding leading two teams into the cave drainage to what looked like a col- to the highest areas of the plateau. early. From the previous end, one lapsed entrance. The way in above As the truck had not been function- team continued the survey, and the the collapse was too narrow, but by ing perfectly since the ditch episode other carried on rigging. The large following the stream Ruthy found and we were tired of being wet all tunnel seen from above turned out a small, inconspicuous entrance, the time, we decided to abort fur- to be very big, with passage dimen- about 1 meter high by 2 meters ther prospecting and return to sions up to 30 meters wide and wide, taking air and water, and she Mexico City early. usually that high or higher. A sec- followed it to where she would ond round, polished tube was have needed to get seriously wet to UEVA DE LA MANO EXPEDITION. found, 15 meters in diameter, and continue. The second doline also COn November 1, 2000, a group then the tunnel opened up again to had a stream, which we followed of ten cavers from SMES and GEU massive proportions, over 40 me- until it disappeared under a dolo- established a campsite for a Cueva ters wide. Up above, a series of mite headwall. While Gustavo fol- de la Mano expedition on the ridge ledges could be seen on the right. A lowed a dry, earthy channel to a above El Resumidero and made sudden narrowing of the main pas- partially filled but enterable sink plans for the coming exploration. sage preceded a series of two short with water noises inside, I took a The following day we started sur- pitches, which were rigged out the closer look at the base of the head- veying. While my team made a pe- water, although some of the team wall and noticed that the wall was rimeter survey of the entrance members elected to jump into the actually a narrow ridge about 2 chamber found on the recce trip, deep pools waiting below. Again meters wide separating the second Gustavo’s team surveyed down- the passage opened up, and two doline from the third. The stream stream into a huge canyon-shaped apparent could be seen

148 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 high above on the right. A long, inlet was followed to a complex meters depth after only 350 meters straight tunnel continued ahead area where several leads were not of nice streamway, the rest of its and ended in a large room. Al- pursued to ends. 846-meter length being upper-level, though a huge passage was plainly The final surveyed length of fossil passages that were pushed visible on the left, the light from the Cueva de la Mano is 2786 meters, hard in a failed attempt to get past bottom entrance could be seen to with a total depth of 238 meters. the sump. Cueva de la Majada, in the right. The surveyors caught up There are still quite a few leads, and spite of its large entrance, ended with the riggers as they were de- the through trip is quite exhilarat- rapidly in a too-tight meander, as scending a short drop. This was ing. did another small cave nearby, followed by a last one, which was Tomatillas de Taco. Some long not rigged because a side passage LANO DE OTATES EXPEDITION. scouting trips to the upper part of to the left allowed an exit without LThe following Christmas, my the plateau resulted only in finding swimming the last pool. Here they ranting and raving about the great lots of flat-floored dolines. found flagging that had been left by potential of the area above the Finally, on the ridge immediately Ruthy and Sergio, who had reached Yextla resurgence resulted in a above Yextla, a large cave entrance this point a few hours earlier on a rather large group, by SMES stan- taking a stream was found. Since it surface trip from the campsite. Fol- dards. Three cavers from Canada, also had lots of air flow, we really lowing the flagging, the two teams two Brits, and ten Mexicans partici- got excited, so much so that we ac- of cavers were able to locate the pated for varying lengths of time. tually spent a whole day cutting old path and the road, and, after a gain We established base camp at Llano trees out of the nearest logging road in altitude of over 300 meters in less de los Otates, after having quite an in an attempt to shorten the walk than 2 kilometers horizontal dis- epic time trying to locate it the pre- in. Finally, a group left camp with tance, they got back to the campsite vious night. The little stream by the the intention of pushing this Cueva on the ridge. campsite sank at the bottom of the de la Ortiga. Knowing that the only The following day my team, doline less than a hundred meters available resurgence, Yextla, was lured by the description of the cave, away, and the two Brits, still think- over 1100 meters lower and only 4 decided to do the reverse through ing they were back home, immedi- kilometers away made us feel con- trip, derigging on the way and sur- ately started a digging project and fident. A nice, steeply sloping en- veying a few of the side leads. One by afternoon had already excavated trance almost 20 meters wide soon of the two main inlets near the bot- a 3-meter-deep cave. Meanwhile degenerated into a narrow meander tom was followed up a series of the rest of us started walking that soon ended abruptly against a cascades to a sump. The huge passage around, as no previous trips had gravel fill. A desperate climb above seen to the left when approaching checked this area. Unfortunately, this reached a low crawl, and soon the bottom entrance was followed, although many sites were looked at we could hear the stream again. We but not surveyed, to an incredibly and some started out really prom- popped out at the top end of a large wood and debris pile, beyond isingly, almost all our finds were larger passage, and a few meters which a small stream was found to quickly choked by logging debris. ahead a large breakdown could be originate and disappear at sumps. Cueva de los Mármoles, a prom- seen. Fortunately we easily passed The two high boreholes near the ising stream-sink back near the through the boulders to a continuing Second Tube were basically large marble quarry along the main road, stream passage, but, unfortunately, ledges, although one of them in- got our adrenaline going for a after crashing down over some very cluded many gorgeous formations. couple of days, but ended rather nice gours, the stream entered a Also near the Second Tube, another disappointingly at a sump at 64 very narrow and immature crawl

149 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25

150 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 that is plugged to the ceiling. The was done. Everybody cursed the Golondrina. We returned to Mexico dig looked so bad that not even the cave gods for not allowing us to City the next day. Brits cared to contemplate it. A se- find another cave like that during ries of crawls made a short loop, but this expedition, and all enjoyed the UENTE DE DIOS. Views of the only reached the base of a dome. through trip very much. Plarge Huacalapan-Omiltemi Back at the breakdown, a way was plateau during the previous scout- found up into a large room floored COUTING THE NORTHERN PLA ing trip inspired us to go have a in huge blocks and covered with a STEAU. Although previous scouting look at a large depression above the thick layer of bat guano. A short trips had shown that the northern town of Chichihualco, at the north- climb above this gained us an ob- plateau indeed had good-looking west end of that plateau. Trying to vious passage right above the entrances, we did not want to spend reach the large doline, which is streamway. This ended at a pitch, another winter expedition in Filo de shown on maps, from the towns of but unfortunately this happened to Caballo unless we were sure there Iyotla and Tepozonalco, we were be the dome we’d seen in the crawls would be enough caves to keep ev- told that a road went up to the large below. More searching in the break- eryone happy, so Gustavo, Ruthy, Puente de Dios cave entrance up down and crawlways didn’t produce and I decided to spend a week in there, and that we had better ap- a going lead, so after surveying only August 2001 scouting the whole proach the doline from that side. 336 meters of cave we returned to northern plateau. After our experi- We were told that the road had been base camp very disappointed. More ence the previous year, this time we made to install a water pipe to take searching in the dolines on this were prepared for rain, with a large water to Chichihualco. Having ridge produced a few other spec- tarp, watertight luggage for our found the correct road, we followed tacular entrances, but all of them clothing, and large ponchos. By this it until it disappeared against the silted shut still in twilight. time we had made contact with “the hillside. We could actually see the We now decided to attempt to get lone gringo,” an American caver depression we were seeking above into the plateau from below, through who, according to the locals, had us, and quickly found a large path the Yextla resurgence. After the explored quite a few caves in the taking us there. The views were long and steep drive down, we area by himself, and we had estab- magnificent as we climbed steeply parked the truck in front of the cave lished that although he had indeed to the edge of the plateau. After con- and, while getting proper clothes spent some time in the area and ex- siderable elevation gain, we crossed on, engaged in conversation with plored at least one cave to nearly a col and were looking into a huge the passing locals. We were pleased 200 meters in depth, he had done doline at least half a kilometer in to be told how nice and beautiful no surveying and had no plans to diameter and 250 meters deep. On the cave is. When we entered it, we return and properly document his the opposite side, a deep gorge ran all thought this was what we finds. His deep cave was Sumidero down the doline, and we could hear wanted: large, walking stream pas- de Agua de la Golondrina, which a river crashing down a series of sage that just kept on going. After we had found on our second scout- cascades on its way to the bottom. 300 meters of this, we came to a ing trip and where we had decided A path into the doline was quickly breakdown choke. The stream is- to establish our base camp. Our found and followed. We were in for sues from a very narrow passage on days were all spent ridgewalking, a surprise. the left, but we elected to carry on and each and every day we found Reaching the river, we found a in the large passage above the some very nice entrances. On the series of small dams channeling breakdown. We came out in the side last day, we took the truck down to most of the flow into a water pipe of a very large chamber at least 40 the town of La Ciénega and followed that followed the stream-channel meters wide, and we could see a guide into Tlaxitine Canyon, downward into a most impressive leads at both ends, as well as on the where, above some beautiful trav- entrance at least 100 meters high other side of the chamber, where a ertine cascades, he showed us the and 40 meters wide. The screeching small mudslide took us back down entrance to Cueva del Agua, a very of vencejos (the same birds that live to the stream. Unfortunately, the interesting resurgence cave that in Sótano de las Golondrinas) filled water was issuing from a sump could not be entered due to the high the air, and we could see into a large pool. The other leads just produced flow. A search in the jungle above passage of the same dimensions some more breakdown, so the total failed to find the reputed second with a floor made up of large break- length is only 508 meters. and larger entrance to this resur- down blocks covered with bird On the next to last day of the ex- gence, which has been entered by guano, reminiscent of the bottom pedition we couldn’t try our plan- the locals “for a very long way, to a room in Hoya de Guaguas. The ned Cueva de la Mano through trip window.” There were rumors in La stream made its way among the because of car troubles that re- Ciénega about robbers in the area, boulders, as did the water pipe. We quired a trip to Chilpancingo. We and they were supported by the later learned that the pipe had been did the through trip on the last day. sudden appearance and as sudden placed there by the town of Chichi- A few of the side leads were curso- disappearance of a truck loaded hualco to provide it with water un- rily looked at and found to be with police, so we went back up the contaminated by the guano. promising, but no new surveying road to our campsite at Agua de la Surveying was made easy by the

151 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 huge dimensions and the ample things like, “10-meter pitch, used attempt. Unfortunately, two map- light streaming in from the en- 50-meter rope, rigged to large natu- ping trips found that the large en- trance. After 150 meters, the cave ral. Used same rope for the follow- trance passage degenerated to a made a slight turn, and we entered ing two pitches.” Since we were very narrow rift that ended the a huge chamber nearly 100 meters using 9- and 8-millimeter ropes, we cave. wide. Way below we could see an- opted for a more European rigging We decided to make the long other beam of light, the lower exit approach. Unfortunately, the Italian walk toward Puerto Fresno, where of this short, but very impressive and British teams engaged in a con- we had known of a big pit since stream cave. A few small side leads test to see who could produce the the third scouting trip. Two of the extended the cave to 555 meters in most awkward and difficult-to- Italians and Sergio won the first- length, 420 of which are the main cross rebelay, thus making the cave descent rights and returned to camp passage. The depth is 93 meters. A a bit too sporting. A first break- late that night full of stories about short but very impressive through down choke was easily passed, but the very deep entrance pitch, but trip; strange that it had not been after fifteen short pitches the large sad that the only continuation was documented previously. terminal breakdown room was en- small and ended quickly. The sur- Once out the other side, we at- countered. Although most members vey showed that Sótano de Puerto tempted to follow the water pipe, of the expedition visited this room, Fresno has an entrance pitch of 99 but were soon trying to make our no way on could be found, despite meters, third deepest in Guerrero, way across the jungle to follow the the tremendous airflow just a and a total depth of 117 meters. To- stream instead. We quickly found a couple of pitches above it. The sur- tal surveyed length is only 163 path going in the right direction, vey showed Agua de la Golondrina meters. and after a short uphill walk we to be 730 meters long and 193 While they were doing this, a were back at the truck. meters deep. We were really im- rather large contingent went for a pressed by what the lone gringo long walk to a large doline at the GUA DE LA GOLONDRINA EXPE- achieved all by himself. edge of the main granite intrusion. ADITION. On our expedition to The following few days were a When we reached its bottom, we Sumidero de Agua de la Golon- bit disappointing, as again most found Sumidero de Agua del drina, there were three Italians, two entrances were soon silted up or Carpintero, named after the small Brits and a Canadian, and a grand choked by logging debris. Sumi- woodpeckers nesting near the very total of thirteen Mexicans plus three dero de Árboles Caídos, one of our good looking entrance, which takes visitors, for varying lengths of time. best finds on the previous scouting a small stream. The only drawback This was one of the largest SMES trip, ended disappointingly after was the two- to three-hour uphill expeditions ever. only 187 meters of stream-washed walk back to base camp. The final Our first objective, Agua de la passage, and two of our best-looking days of the expedition were dedi- Golondrina, was right by the camp- leads choked after only one pitch. cated to exploring this cave and site. Although we had a tackle list After a couple days’ efforts, Agua digging efforts in Agua del Pipistre- provided by the lone gringo, this del Mosquito was found by Ruthy. llo, a very interesting sink between was rather useless, as he had appar- Even with the aid of GPS, this cave the road and the campsite, where a ently rigged American style, with was not found again until a third very large hading rift eventually took us to several narrow squeezes. These were finally passed by Luciano after getting proper digging tools made by a local, prompting many jokes about him seeking the Timavo River, which he had found, thanks to huge digging efforts, in Lazaro Jerko Cave, back in his na- tive . Unfortunately, no return was made to this cave, because the breakthrough happened on the last available day. Agua del Carpintero starts very nicely as a narrow, winding canyon excavated in beautiful white lime- stone. After a few downclimbs, a short pitch of 7 meters took us past a very polished meander to the edge of a bigger pitch of 20 meters, One of the tubes in Cueva de la Mano. Gustavo Vela.

152 AMCS ACTIVITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 25 rigged from some stals on the left the cave enters a narrow meander. the thing rigged, we all proceeded that provided a perfect free-hang. The Italians again followed a diffi- through and down. This pitch, A large chamber at the bottom ap- cult route, a very narrow and tight which turned out to be 94 meters, pears blocked by a flowstone cur- overpass, to avoid a small drip in was named Pozo Chiquín. Unfortu- tain, but a small duckunder leads the lower, walking-size passage. nately, the bottom of Pozo Chiquín to a narrow continuation. A few Italian cave water is very cold, as is a breakdown chaos, and although meters farther, a very short pitch Paolo used to remind us every time a strong air current could be felt of 2 meters took us to an active we got dressed for caving, saying going into the breakdown, no ob- streamway coming from the flow- in his strange Italian accent, “In vious passage could be found. Al- stone above. At the pitch that fol- Italy, with this, you die,” but really though only 396 meters long, lowed, cultural differences emerged, this was excessive. The continuation Sumidero de Agua del Carpintero as the Italians rigged a dodgy and of the meander is somewhat tight became the deepest cave found on awkward traverse to drop the pitch and has quite a few short and ex- the expedition, at 210 meters total beyond a standing pool of water at posed climbs, and then we hit a depth, and is among the ten deep- its base, while I suggested an easier squeeze. Paolo took the lead, and est caves in the state of Guerrero. rig straight down to the water, we started hearing quite a bit of the which was, as it turned out, only finest Italian language when he be- lthough we haven’t yet found knee deep. The Brits who followed came partially stuck, and then again Athe deepest or longest cave in a couple of days later rerigged this when he managed to get to the Guerrero there, it is obvious that the section, actually making it a lot other side and discovered he was region is promising, and it has pro- harder to traverse, in their desire to hanging from some tiny handholds duced some astoundingly great always use Y-hangs. above a very dark and very deep caves. We intend to continue explor- A couple of short pitches later, abyss. After he returned and we had ing this beautiful mountain range.

Filo de Caballo, Guerrero

Desde 1998 la SMES ha realizado varios viajes de prospección y tres expediciones al área de Filo de Caballos, en el estado de Guerrero. En la primera expedición se exploró y mapeó la Cueva de la Mano, una travesía de 2.8 km de largo y 238 metros de desnivel. La segunda expedición mapeó la Cueva de los Mármoles, de 846 metros de largo, y la resurgencia de Yextla, de 508 metros, entre muchos otros descubrimientos menores. El Puente de Dios fue cartografiado en un viaje corto, y resultó ser otra travesía corta (420 metros) pero muy espectacular por sus pasajes de mas de 80 metros de altura. La última expedición descubrió el Resumidero del Agua de la Golondrina, de 730 metros de largo y 193 metros de profundidad, el Sótano de Puerto Fresno, con un tiro de entrada de 99 metros y una profundidad total de 117, y el Resumidero de Agua del Carpintero, que aunque sólo alcanzó 396 metros de largo, contiene un tiro interno de 94 metros, y su profundidad total de 210 metros lo situa entre las diez mas profundas cavidades del estado de Guerrero.

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