Guatemala’s English-language Magazine FREE May 2016 revuemag.com Year 25, No. 3

Historical Ruins of Guatemala The Path of Education Guatemalan Desayuno

3 4 1 2 3 4 5 1st PLACE by judges vote “Ruinas de San Jerónimo” La Antigua by Elí Orozco. Prize: Q200 REVUE PHOTO CONTEST: historical ruins of Guatemala 1st PLACE by popular vote “Ritual espiritual” Ruinas de Zaculeu, Huehuetenango, by Ana Gabriela Santisteban Medrano. Prize: Q200

6 7 3rd PLACE by judges vote “Puerta al paraiso” La Antigua by Tatiana Golovkina. Prize: Q50 REVUE PHOTO CONTEST: historical ruins of Guatemala 2nd PLACE by judges vote “The jungle at K-5 structure” Piedras Negras, Sierra del Lacandón, Petén by Mario Alfredo Mercado. Prize: Q100

8 9 20 CONTENTSCONTENTS Joan Manuel Rodríguez Zea 14 guatemala insight by Elizabeth Bell Education in Guatemala SECTIONS 24 DateBook: MAY 16 book alert 41 Health Services “Jungle of Stone” by William Carlsen 80 Travel / El Salvador The story of two men and their extraordinary journey 81 Travel 95 Marketplace 17 17 community service by Matt Bokor 98 Real Estate Coral Gables Donates Fire Truck REGIONS Sister city with La Antigua 23 Spotlight on Dining 35 26 Photo Op “Jazz Moment” 46 La Antigua 18 education by Dianne Carofino 30 Museum Directory 83 Lake Atitlán Project Village 88 Pacific Coast Education is the number one priority 81 El Petén 92 Tecpán 20 update by Dianne Carofino 93 Quetzaltenango Antigua International School 94 Río Dulce Accreditation by NEASC 12 From the Publishers 54 21 art by Tono Valdes 47 MAP: La Antigua Guatemala Photo Club celebrates 59 years 86 MAP: Lake Atitlán 96 Vet Q & A 82 100 Advertiser Index 22 book alert by Dianne Carofino “Doing Good ... Says Who? PHOTO CONTEST Authors: Connie Newton and Fran Early “Historic Ruins in Guatemala” All of the May entrants can 54 be seen at REVUEmag.com Amalia’s kitchen by Amalia Moreno-Damgaard Here are the winners: Desayuno — a great way to start the day (with recipe) 6 Elí Orozco 6 Ana Gabriela Santisteban 82 profile by Louise Wisechild 8 Mario Alfredo Mercado Nery Felipe Priego Huertas 8 Tatiana Golovkina Music is my inheritance 74 Spencer Urrutia cover Giovani Minera 101 sensuous guatemala by Ken Veronda Melaza – Blackstrap Molasses Deadline for the JUNE 2016 issue is May 10th 10

18 11 From the publishers

ay features include education, starting with Education in Guate- mala by Elizabeth Bell followed by Dianne Carofino with Project Guatemala’s English-language Magazine Village and an update on the Antigua International School. REVUEmag.com • [email protected] MCommunity Service, by Matt Bokor, highlights a gift to La Antigua Gua- Publishers/Editors John & Terry Kovick Biskovich Associate Editor Matt Bokor temala from its generous sister city, Coral Gables, Fla. General Manager José Caal We have two Book Alerts for you, one is all about community service, Photography César Tián, Luis Toribio Doing Good—Says Who? Graphic Designer Hadazul Cruz It’s an especially interesting tie-in with Project Webmaster / Social Media JB & Heather Aleman Village. We’re also so pleased to announce William Carleson’s much-antic- Contributing Photographers Thor Janson, Nelo Mijangos, Willy Posadas ipated book, Jungle of Stone, the story of two men and their extraordinary

La Antigua Manager César Tián journey. Production Director Mercedes Mejicanos Administrative Assistant María Solís Also inside this month, the Guatemala Photo Club celebrates 59 years; Systems Luis Juárez Distribution César Tián, Oscar Chacón, Luis Toribio Amalia’s kitchen is cooking up Desayuno and Lousie Wisechild profiles Nery Maintenance Silvia Gómez Felipe Priego Huertas. Sales Representatives Ivonne Pérez, César Tián, Spotlight on Dining by Anna von Frances takes us inside Samsara and Denni Marsh, Fernando Rodas, Luis Toribio, Lena Johannessen Ken Veronda temps us with a tablespoon of Melaza. Printed by PRINT STUDIO DateBook is packed with all kinds of events: films, art and photography Publishing Company producciones publicitarias Estrella antigua, S.A. inaugurations, theater, benefits and more. CIRCULATION 20,000 readers monthly May is the Month of Museums, be sure to check out all the special events Revue offices: (in print and the Revue online Datebook) including an extensive Museum LA Antigua 3a avenida sur #4-A (Central Office) Directory. TEL: (502) 7931-4500 Entries and winners from the May Revue Photo Contest, Historic Ruins [email protected] of Guatemala, are sprinkled throughout this edition. We think you’ll agree, SAN CRISTÓBAL Denni Marsh Tel: 5704-1029 they are all spectacular. Our thanks to Giovani Minera for this month’s SAN LUCAS Rodolfo Flores Tel: 3016-8557 cover, “Admirando la Grandeza” Tikal, Petén. El Salvador [email protected] El Salvador Regional Manager: Lena Johannessen Col. Centroamérica Calle San Salvador #202, San Salvador — John & Terry Kovick Biskovich Tels: (503) 7981-4517, 7860-8632 revuemag.com Opinions or statements printed in the Revue are not necessarily those of the publishers. We welcome your comments. REVUE is distributed free, and available at: Hotels, Restaurants, Travel Agencies, Car Rental Agencies, Embassies, Spanish Schools, INGUAT offices, Shops, and other public places in the following areas: Guatemala City, La Antigua, Quetzaltenango, Lake Atitlán, Cobán, Petén, Río Dulce, Lívingston, Monterrico, Retalhuleu; as well as locations in El Salvador and Honduras.

ON THE COVER REVUEmag.com “Admirando la Grandeza” PRINT - MOBILE - ONLINE Tikal, Petén by Giovani Minera PBX: (502) 7931-4500 [email protected] 12

University of San Carlos, La Antigua Guatemala (hadazul cruz) Education in Guatemala Guatemala — A Brief Overview Insight by Elizabeth Bell author/historian he University of San Carlos of Guatemala is one of the old- est universities in the Americas. Education has come a long way since higher education began in 1620 at the Colegio de Santo Tomas de Aquino, predecessor to San Carlos, which Women did not attend uni- was officially founded in 1676. T versity in colonial times, and only some were accepted at the Colegio Mayor de Santo Tomás, La Antigua (hadazul cruz) School of the Maidens, or El Ni- ñado, the only school of impor- tance for girls.

“The first documents for founding this school are dated April 17, 1553 … and approved by his Majesty October 7, 1592. These rules were very strict and limited those to be admitted to orphan girls, daughters of no- bles, descendants to conquerors, or early colonizers of Old Chris- tian heritage. These girls were ...continued page 52 14

Book Alert

The True Story of Two Men, Their Extraordinary Journey, JUNGLE OF STONE and the Discovery of the William Carlsen Lost Civilization of the Maya

n 1839, rumors of baffling New York Harbor on an expedi- became known as the astonishing stone ruins buried within the tion into the forbidding rainforests . unmapped jungles of Cen- of present-day Honduras, Guate- tral America reached two of mala and Mexico. What they found In the tradition of “Lost City of Ithe world’s most intrepid travelers. would rewrite the West’s under- Z” and “In the Kingdom of Ice,” Captivated by the reports, Ameri- standing of human history. Carlsen tells the riveting story of can diplomat John Lloyd Stephens the discovery of the ancient Maya. and British artist Frederick Cather- American journalist and Pulitzer Enduring disease, war and the tor- wood—each already celebrated for Prize finalist William Carlsen’s new ments of nature and terrain, Ste- their adventures in Egypt, the Holy book, “JUNGLE OF STONE: The phens and Catherwood meticu- Land, Greece and Rome— True Story of Two Men, Their Ex- lously uncovered and recorded the sailed together out of traordinary Journey, and the Dis- remains of a civilization that had covery of the Lost Civilization flourished in the Americas at the of the Maya” is the definitive same time as classic Greece and account of Stephens and Rome—and had been its rival in Catherwood’s daring art, architecture and power. journey to docu- ment the rem- Their remarkable book, “Inci- nants of what dents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatan,” became a sensation, hailed by Edgar Allen Poe as “perhaps the most interest- ing book of travel ever published” and recognized today as the birth of American archaeology. Most importantly, Stephens and Cath- erwood were the first to grasp the William Morrow /HarperCollins Publishers significance of the Maya ruins, rec- ISBN: 978-0062407399 ognizing that their antiquity and ...continued page 67

16 The gesture was Sister city Coral Gables, donates the latest exchange between the two Fire Truck to La Antigua Guatemala communities under the by Matt Bokor Sister Cities program. photos by Alex Valle

he firefighting capability of La Antigua Guatemala’s Fire Ascencio and Fire Chief Rafael Arévalo Department has greatly improved with the recent gift of a during a ceremony on April 8 outside hook-and-ladder truck from Coral Gables, Florida. Antigua City Hall. TMayor Jim Cason of Coral Gables, an exclusive community just The gesture was the latest exchange outside Miami, presented the 34-ton vehicle to Antigua Mayor Susana between the two communities under Mayor Cason and Mayor Ascencio cut the ceremonial ribbon the Sister Cities program, an effort to increase citizen diplomacy begun in 1956 by U.S. President Dwight D. Eisenhower. Antigua became Coral Ga- bles’ first Sister City in1993.

“We are happy to have been able to provide a truck that can change the way that the fire department can combat any sort of fire,” Cason said. “The fire de- partment now has the ability to be suc- cessful in extinguishing fires that may occur on residents’ interior patios.” ...continued page 78 17 Exterior view of the new High School The mountainous indigenous village of San Bernabé Vista Hermosa, near the municipality of Parramos, in the department of Chimaltenango, has been adopted — all 350 inhabitants — by Project Village.

Project Village The new High School Education is the number one priority At the time of their initial visit, San Ber- by Dianne Carofino nabé was a small cluster of homes on the edge of the vegetable fields where most of the fathers, who generally had a third-grade he brainchild of two former law partners from Den- education, worked as day laborers. The few ver, Colorado, Project Village began in 2006. The roads were rutted dirt. The homes were original thought was to coordinate and fund projects mostly of the corrugated roof and dirt floor of other NGOs, each of which specialized in differ- variety, some a little better, some even worse. Tent areas and would provide necessary services to villagers. The There were no sanitary facilities or clean wa- founders, Vince and Tom, set out to find a village where they ter available to the residents. At the center of could implement their view of “Doing Good.” They decided to the village, there was a three-room elemen- visit indigenous villages, ask questions and listen to anyone who tary school, which employed one teacher for would talk to them. Conversations, facilitated by existing NGOs, 57 students in grades one through six. Once took place in approximately 30 villages throughout Guatemala. the students completed sixth grade, they were required to enroll in private or public They heard many responses of the “what are you going to do schools outside the village, an arrangement for us” genre, without a recognition of obligation from the village that left many older children with no viable inhabitants who would receive these donations. They kept looking alternative to continue their education. for a village that was not interested in one-time grants or charity, but wanted to work collaboratively with Project Village to improve Vince and Tom sat down and talked with the lives of its inhabitants. They eventually found San Bernabé. the villagers about their needs and desires. 18 San Bernabé’s residents clearly stated that their priority—above better housing, paved roads or health services—was education for their children, hoping that an improved ed- ucation would result in their children living better lives.

If Project Village could bring better edu- cation to their children, the residents of San Bernabé were willing to do everything they Local fathers on the construction site could, without compensation, to successful- ly partner with Project Village in this one ef- of providing a home environment where their child can sit and fort. Vince and Tom had originally planned study for one to two hours every day without distraction. to fund other NGOs to bring services to the village, but there was no other NGO to Project Village has continued its goal of providing education to turn to for this particular venture. They were the students of the village, even as the community has overcome lawyers, not educators, but the villagers were overwhelming obstacles: a father murdered by machete during a definite in what they wanted. Project Village robbery; a family member kidnapped and found murdered when decided it would work with these motivated the family could not borrow the ransom; a mother who died from villagers, help them in every possible way, illness because there were no funds to pay for treatment; parents and see what could be accomplished. who died from alcoholism; a father serving a 12-year prison sen- tence for stealing a cell phone; and more. Project Village started with small steps. It provided funding for additional teachers and Several years into their “adoption,” the villagers decided to for scholarships to village children to study share their good fortune with others, and the educational pro- beyond sixth grade outside the village. In ...continued page 58 collaboration with the villagers, a comput- Elementary exams er lab was added to the elementary school. Project Village provided funds for the build- ing materials. Fathers worked in the fields all day and built the lab at night. Computers arrived and fathers divided themselves into night guards to protect the computers until they felt the building was secure.

The goal of Project Village is to provide a safe environment in which children may succeed. That has included explaining to parents the importance of proper nutrition and hygiene, of consistent attendance, and 19 1) Use English as a primary lan- guage of instruction and commu- nication throughout the school.

2) Demonstrate the international nature of the school through a mission that includes creating in- ternational citizens: through de- mographics of the student body and staff, and through the co-cur- ricular experiences and programs offered.

3) Provide a curriculum that in AIS campus content, design, implementation and assessment reflects best prac- UPDATE: tices in American and internation- The Antigua al education. 4) Prepare students to be able to International School transfer to similar schools world- wide or, upon graduation, to en- by Dianne Carofino ter colleges and universities where he Antigua International School has received accreditation English is the primary medium of through the New England Association of Schools and Colleg- instruction. ...continued page 70 es’ (NEASC) Commission on International Education (CIE). AIS students and teacher Founded in 1885, NEASC is the oldest regional accrediting Tassociation in the United States. It serves almost 2,000 public and inde- pendent schools, universities and colleges (think Harvard, Yale, M.I.T., etc.) as well as all public schools in the New England states. It also accredits approximately 100 American and international schools in other countries.

Why is accreditation through an agency such as NEASC important?

1) For prospective students and their parents, accreditation serves a consumer protection purpose. It provides assurance that the school has been evaluated and has met accepted standards established by and with the profession. 2) For the school, accreditation enhances its na- tional and international reputation and represents peer recognition.

In order to acquire accreditation through NEASC-CIT, an interna- tional school must:

20 Tango en el Arrabal (richard gándara) Poquito mija... (edwin bran)

CLUB FOTOGRÁFICO “Some of the Club’s accomplishments include winning an award from the world’s best photographic magazine, creat- ing the National Photographic Hall along with INGUAT, the creation of the Teen Photography Contest, active use of tra- Capturing thede Beauty Guatemala of Guatemala ditional printing methods (film), field trip courses and most for 59 Years importantly, the addition of photographic images to our na- tional register by members of our club.” n May of 1957, Ricardo Mata gathered a group of friends together to share their love of photography and founded the Club Fotográfico de Guatemala. IFifty-nine years later the club, for many, is considered a Guatemalan institution. From one generation to the next, long-time members and newcomers meet on the last Thurs- day of every month at the Museo Ixchel in Guatemala City.

Tono Valdes, current club president explains, “We all have the same interest; we talk about cameras, trending techniques, share and critique photography and organize workshops.”

Cazando peces (richard gándara)

Rooted in the values and visions of Ricardo Mata (1934- 2012), who went on to become a preeminent Guatemalan photographer both nationally and internationally, club members continue to prove that though a picture may be worth a thousand words, a great photographer can produce an image that goes beyond words.

Contact information: email: [email protected] web: www.clubfotografico.org Amanecer en el tanque (luis toledo) FB/ Club fotografico de Guatemala 21 Book Alert by Dianne Carofino

Stanley is visiting Guatemala for the first time on a weeklong mission trip. He is to choose which of three possible projects his professional networking group in Cleveland will sponsor as their initial international project. His first visit is to Angélica’s two-room home with its dirt floor, corrugated metal roof and the lone light bulb on which Stanley bumps his head as he tries to squeeze into the home’s small space. It is impossi- ble to see the dolls in the dark house, so they go outside into the dirt yard, where Angélica’s children proudly show him dolls they have helped to make.

Stanley, thinking of his own grandchildren and comparing their lives with those of these shy but smil- ing children, wants to help Angélica to pay her bills and to have a decent home. So, he does what—to him— ngélica, a Mayan village widow with five young children, seems to be an easy solution. He earns a living by making dolls from discarded textiles stuffed pulls out his checkbook and writes with straw and cornhusks. Facial features embroidered with a check for $10,000, to be given to brightly colored thread give the dolls personality and makes Angélica. He is doing good, right? themA popular at the market. Recently, though, the cost of medicine for a child with an infection has wiped out Angélica’s savings and made it Joe, the translator who has accom- impossible to pay for electricity. The one light bulb hanging from the panied Stanley to Angélica’s home, is ceiling made it possible for her to work on dolls in the evening. Now, shocked, even though he has had ex- without that light, there are fewer dolls to sell at market. Angélica may perience with foreigners passing out not even be able to make her biweekly repayment to her micro-lending gifts during one-week mission trips. coop for the $200 loan that enabled her to begin her business. His first thoughts are that $10,000 ...continued page 40 22 hen deciding where to live in Central America any doubt was erased when I arrived in La Antigua Guatemala. Though I’m not saying that discovering a fabulous restaurant in town that featuresW a lot of vegan dishes was a deciding factor, but certainly Samsara played a role.

With the slogan “a place to feed your body and mind,” Samsara has a food and drink menu featuring a cornucopia of delicious offerings. Even if you are a steadfast patron, you might still find yourself mulling over all the menu options before deciding what to order. The drink menu is four pages long. Some of my favorites

Spotlight on Dining — Samsara by Anna von Frances

include the eye-opening Masala Coffee (espresso shot, masala chai and cacao with soy milk), the super-sized whipped Hibiscus Mint iced tea and the detox elixir Evergreen Smoothie. Beer and wine are also on the menu.

Now for the meal choices. For breakfast few can resist The Big Green: a scrambled egg breakfast with kale, avocado, moringa leaves, spirulina, chlorella and turmeric, served with guacamole, piloy (kidney) beans, plantain and black tortillas. For a delicious and satisfying salad, I recommend Kale Salad with tofu and garbanzo. For comfort food on a rainy day or any day, try the Curry Veggie Crepe. It is packed with vegetables cooked in an aromatic creamy curry sauce, served in a wafer-thin homemade crepe. Tofu Tacos and any of the panini sandwiches satisfies just about everyone, even non-vegetarians.

Ambiance includes DMT-inspired imagery projected on screens, Kabbalah symbols and ethereal photographs adorn the walls, a library of suggested reading for the spiritually-inclined, pleasing music and more! *Do note that lunchtime can be busy with longer wait times for meals.

Samsara (Tea Lounge, Eatery and Gallery) 6a calle poniente #33, La Antigua Guatemala 23 DateBookDatebook

MAY 2016 guide to culture and upcoming events compiled by mercedes mejicanos

Sat., 10am-12pm ART Inaugura- Sat., 1pm OUTDOOR EVENT 7tion cocktail of Fósiles de Agua, 7PICNIC and Petanque tourna- sculptures by Rolando Madrid (Salón del ment. Free. Potlock, bring picnic food Coleccionista); European Engravings to share. Limited space, reservations 1500-1600 (sala principal). Galería El At- please, [email protected] or tico, 4a av. 15-45, z. 1, Guatemala City tel: 7832-8910. Alianza Francesa Antigua Sat., 5-6pm MUSIC Ati Mamá, 2a av. sur #25, La Antigua 7Bossa Nova and Boleros per- Sat., 6pm ELECTRO NIGHT Tues., 6pm DOCUMENTARY Han- formed by Juan Luis Gramajo, Sofía Per- 7Rebel minds, dance, graffiti, painting 3nah: Buddhism’s Untold Journey. alta and Quinteto Ecléctico. Mesón Panza and techno music. Alianza Francesa de Donation Q40. See highlight on page 28. Verde, 5a av. sur #19, La Antigua Guatemala, 5a calle 10-55, z. 1, Finca La Hotel Santo Domingo, Sala Marco Augus- Aurora, Guatemala City to Quiroa, Hotel Santo Domingo, 3a calle oriente 28-A, La Antigua Sat, 4-7pm ART Un Año en Antigua by the gifted Guatemalan artist Alfredo García Gil showcasing traditions celebrated in his hometown of La Wed., 7:30pm VISUAL ARTS 7 Antigua Guatemala. Lotería Capiusera featuring work 4 Through June 6. La Antigua Galería de Arte, 4a calle oriente #15, La Antigua by 54 talented Guatemalan illustra- tors and designers. Galería de Arte de la Alianza Francesa. 5a calle 10-55, z. 1, Finca La Aurora, Guatemala City Fri. DINING at KIDS Restaurant. 6Venue info: & reservations: call 5251-0202 or [email protected] 5pm: meet the shuttle at the San Fran- cisco Church parking lot (corner of 7a cal- le & 1 av., La Antigua) San Gaspar Vivar

Fri., 7-8pm LANGUAGE WORK- 6SHOP Conversations in French for advanced students, also enjoy crois- sants and coffee. Free. Reservations please, [email protected] or tel: 7832-8910. Alianza Francesa de La An- tigua, 2a av. sur #25, La Antigua 24 datebook

Sun., through Tues., May 10 Sun., 8am CARRERA AR- 8CELEBRATE Día de la madre 15 COIRIS 5KM (5K “Rainbow (Mother’s Day) Reservations, tel: 7832- Run”) organized by Club Rotario to bene- 1296. Fridas, Calle del Arco #29, La An- fit the children of AYUVI (www.ayuvi.org. tigua gt). Donation Q75, includes a T-shirt and medal. Central Park, La Antigua Mon., 4pm — CULINARY AC- 9TIVITY The Taste of French Crepes! Reservation please, tel: 7832- 8910 or [email protected] Al- ianza Francesa Antigua 2a av. sur #25, La Antigua Tues. MOTHER’S DAY - DÍA 10 DE LA MADRE Guatemala

Sat., & Sun., 15 EVENT Cul- Wed., 5-7pm ART Tu Madre, 14tural Landscapes in collabo- ration with International Museum Day collective exhibition by Colectivo Tues., 5:30pm (English) TALK 11 (May 18) the Museo Arte de Guatemala C.A.C.A. with work by Rodolfo de León, Mi Escuelita provides tuitoring (MAG) invites you to attend its weekend 17 Juan Pablo Canale, Christel Brenninkmei- for children from poverty-level families events: Sat. & Sun., 10am-5pm Open- jer, Elvira Méndez, Anacris García-Cabe- in San Pedro Las Huertas to reduce the ing of the Farmer’s Market (Caoba Farms); za, Alexis Rojas, Lili Aldai, Lucía Morán number who fail a grade in school. This Sat.10am, throughout the day, tour Giracca, and Gustavo Estrada. Galería represents cost and time for parents and of facilities and exhibition; 11am & 3pm, Panza Verde, 5a av. sur #19, La Antigua some children are not able to continue 1½ hour guided tour of the Collector Pa- their education. Find out more about Thurs., 7:45pm FILM Peque- lacios-Weymann, max. 15 people per tour, this extra-curricular school founded by ñas diferencias (Du vent dans donation Q200; Sun., noon acoustic con- 12 a local teacher. Suggested donation Q25, mes mollets, France 2012). Alianza Fran- cert by Magda Angelica (guitar & vocals) all which goes directly to the NGO. Info. cesa de Guatemala, outdoor garden (tel: and Lenin Fernández (percussion), dona- & reservations, tel: 7832-1919. Rainbow 2207-5757), 5a calle 10-55, z. 1, Finca La tion Q40. Museo Arte de Guatemala, 5a Café, 7a av. sur #8, La Antigua Aurora, Guatemala City Av. sur final #41, La Antigua Sat., 7:30pm PHOTOGRA- 14PHY A Journey Through Ar- Wed., 6pm — (English) SLIDE chitecture by Renaud Ruhlmann (www. 18 SHOW Antigua: Behind the renaudruhlmann.com) Free. Alianza Fran- Walls with Elizabeth Bell. Enjoy a one- cesa Antigua 2a av. sur #25, La Antigua hour presentation with vintage and contemporary photographs collected Sat., evening PARTY Can- over the past 40 years, accompanied by 14tina Beat, underground music. Elizabeth Bell’s expert narration. Q50 Reservations, 7832-1296. Fridas, Calle del per person. Questions encouraged. Au- Arco #29, La Antigua tographed books available. Hotel Sor Juana, 4a calle oriente #45, La Antigua 25 datebook highlight

PHOTOGRAPHY EXHIBITION Open through May 31 Instituto Guatemalteco Americano, Ruta 1, 4-05, z. 4, Guatemala City “JAZZ MOMENT” uring this year’s Jazz Festival, sponsored by the DInstituto Guatemalteco Americano-IGA, pho- tographers, without the benefit of additional lighting or flashes, and with musicians in motion, accepted the challenge and captured some beautiful images. Photographers, musicians, lovers of jazz and the general public are invited to view these photographs in the exhibition Jazz Moment, open through May 31.

Roy Assaf Trio (photo: manuel ramírez barillas)

Jazz Festival 2016 (photo: eduardo ruata)

Eli Yamin (photo: juan deleón) Eli Yamin (photo: juan deleón) more “Jazz Moment” photos pages 35, 36

26 datebook

Thurs., 4pm (Spanish) CON- Tues., 6:30pm — BENEFIT Sat., 6-9pm WINE AND 19FERENCE El Convento de 24 DINNER at Fridas, Antigua’s 28CHEESE PARTY hosted by Santa Teresa de La Antigua Guate- premier Mexican Restaurant, to sup- The American Society of Guatemala. Fine mala by Claudia Wolleys. Q30/Q15, stu- port the work of Unidos Para Los wines, delicious food and great entertain- dents w/ carnet & tour guides. Casa Pope- Animals: rescue, rehabilitation, adop- ment. For more details, visit revuemag. noe, 6a calle oriente #16, La Antigua tions, spay & neuter clinics, children and com/datebook. Hotel Palacio Doña Le- teen programs for dog & puppy care and onor, 4a calle oriente #8, La Antigua training and a lot more (visit its active Sun., 10am FIESTA DEL Facebook page & website www.unidos- 29 PAN Discover the world of paralosanimales.org). Q150 p/p incls. a bread, history and techniques. Work- beverage, a delicious dinner (appetizer, shops for kids and adults. Alianza Fran- main course and dessert). Team UPA cesa de Guatemala, 5a calle 10-55, z. 1, hopes to see you there. Limited seating, Finca La Aurora, Guatemala City advance ticket sales at Revue (3a av. sur #4-A) or tel: Mercedes, 7931-4500 (M-F). Fridas, 5a av. norte #29, Arco de Santa Catalina, La Antigua

Sun., 11:30am MUSIC Con- 29cierto de Sueños with Ricardo Piacentini, piano and Tiziana Scandaletti, Fri., 5pm 5-10pm EVENT soprano, as part of the Italian celebra- 20 Noche de los Museos del Centro tions. Tel: 2366-8394. Sala Marco Augus- Histórico, within the celebration of Inter- to Quiroa, Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, La national Museums Day. See related info., Antigua pg. 30. Galería del Centro circuito sur, 5a av. 12-38, z. 1, Guatemala City Tues., 5:30pm (English) TALK Thurs., 7pm (French w/Span- 31CANI Asociación Casa del Niño, a Tues., 5:30pm MAYAN 26 ish subtitles) FILM Los Seduc- non-profit assoc. working in Jocotenan- 24DANCES by Nuevo Amanec- tores, a romantic comedy, also sample go is dedicated to education and preven- er (New Dawn) a local NGO dedicated to delicious freshly-baked French bread. tion programs aimed at the most vulner- assisting indigenous children in San An- Free. Organized by the Alianza Francesa able children and youth in the area. It dres Itzapa by facilitating self-sufficiency Antigua. Panadería Santa Clara, 2a av. sur takes a holistic approach to education by through education while preserving and #18, La Antigua immersing children in art, culture, sports strengthening their cultural identity Thurs., 7pm PHOTOGRA- and recreation. Suggested donation Q25, though language and dances which are PHY Competition for this all which goes directly to the NGO. Info. currently being lost at an alarming rate. 26 year’s Ricardo Mata Cup. Free, incls. & reservations, tel: 7832 -1919. Rainbow Suggested donation Q25, all which goes a snack. Club Fotográfico de Guatemala. Café, 7a av. sur #8, La Antigua directly to the NGO. Info. & reservations, See related article on pg. 21. Museo Ix- tel: 7832-1919. Rainbow Café, 7a av. sur chel, Centro Cultural UFA (2361-8081/82), #8, La Antigua DateBook Calendar 6a calle final, z. 10, Guatemala City MOBILE Tues., 7:30pm (French-Span- 24 ish) LITERARY CABARET with Philippe Hunziker and Marc Sagaert, artistic direction by Marc Sagaert. Alian- za Francesa de Guatemala, 5a calle 10-55, Stay current with upcoming z. 1, Finca La Aurora, Guatemala City events and live music REVUEmag.com/datebook 27 datebook highlights

DOCUMENTARY Tuesday, May 3, 6pm Donation Q40. Hotel Santo Domingo, Sala Marco Augusto Quiroa, 3a calle oriente 28-A, La Antigua Hannah: Buddhism’s Untold Journey Hannah: la travesía inédita del budism

annah: Buddhism’s Untold Journey tells the story Hof Hannah Nydahl and her adventure bringing Tibetan Buddhism to the West. From her wild and idealistic roots as a hippy in Co- penhagen, the film follows Hannah and her husband Ole to the hedonistic city of Kathmandu, where in 1968 they became two of the first Western students of His Holiness the 16th Karmapa – the first consciously reincarnated lama of Tibet, and the man who would change their lives forever.

At the heart of the film lies the unique and in- spiring love story of Hannah and Ole and their un- wavering dedication to bring Buddhism to the West. From Europe and North America, through the fall of communism in Eastern Europe and Russia, to being kidnapped by guerrillas in South America, the film portrays the path of a great woman at the forefront of a turbulent, ever-changing world. —www.hannahthefilm.com VILLAGE VOICE MOVIEFIED JILL LYNNE – HUFFINGTON POST “The film is a pleasure – lush jewel tones “Cinematic as the best of “The excellently crafted film led the spell- on tapestries, temples, and statues” today’s documentaries” bound audience from fascination to tears.”

ART Collective Exhibition Wednesday, May 11, 5-7pm Galería Panza Verde, 5a av. sur #19, La Antigua

Tu Madre, collective exhibition by Colectivo C.A.C.A. with work by Rodolfo de León, Juan Pablo Canale, Christel Brenninkmeijer, Elvira Méndez, Anacris García-Cabeza, Alexis Rojas, Lili Aldai, Lucia Morán Giracca, and Gustavo Estrada..

28 datebook

Primitive - Contemporary Guatemalan Art Gallery & Museum 4a calle oriente #10 Interior Casa Antigua, El Jaulón, La Antigua [email protected] www.centrodeartepopular.com

MON-FRI 9:00 to 17:00 SAT 9:00 to 13:00 - Closed Sunday 6 Calle final, zona 10 Universidad Francisco Marroquín Guatemala City Tels: (502) 2338-7836, 2338-7896 Maya Archaeology - Colonial Art

On these Saturdays: May 7, June 11, July 16 and August 13 from 11:00 am to 2:00 pm at Enlaces, 6a Avenida Norte #1, Antigua Democrats Abroad will help U.S. citizens register to vote. Exhibition and Sale of And if already registered in the last state they resided in, & Production of Exclusive Handicrafts help them request their overseas absentee ballot for The only place in La Antigua the general election in November. managed by Indigenous People 1a calle poniente #51, La Antigua More info, contact John Chudy at 7832-4581 or [email protected] Tel: 7832-3169 [email protected]

Te invitamos a participar en nuestro CONCURSO FOTOGRÁFICO We invite you to participate in our MONTHLY PHOTO CONTEST de junio 2016 con el tema: AGUA en GUATEMALA. for June 2016 with the theme: WATER in Guatemala. Enviar UNA (1) foto en ALTA RESOLUCIÓN con el título, lugar Please send ONE (1) HIGH RES photo with caption/location and donde fue tomada, su nombre y el sitio web para el crédito a: your name & website for the credit line to: [email protected] [email protected] Habrá premios para las fotos ganadoras, incluye There will be prizes for winning photos including Q.200 para los dos primeros lugares. Q.200 for both 1st Place categories. Para más información REVUEmag.com More information at REVUEmag.com Serán elegibles las fotos que se reciban Submissions entered by the hasta el 12 de MAYO de 2016 12th of MAY, 2016 will be eligible.

29 celebr ate the month of museums

* indicates free entrance on May 18 For May museum events calendar go to REVUEmag.com/datebook

Guatemala City Guatemala City La Antigua Guatemala *Casa Mima 8a av. 14-12, z. 1, Mon-Sat., Museo Ixchel del Traje Indígena *Museo de Arte Guatemalteco 10am-5pm; tels: (office) 2253-6657 & 2232- 6a calle final, z. 10, Centro Cultural UFM, Primitivo-Contemporáneo 4a calle 6902, (museum) 2253-4020; beatrizque- campus of the Francisco Marroquín Univer- oriente & 3a av. norte #10, interior Casa [email protected], www.casamima.org sity, M-F, 9am-5pm, Sat., 9am-1pm; library, Antigua-El Jaulón, La Antigua Guatemala; M-F, 1pm-5pm; Sat., 9am-1pm; Adm: Q35, daily 9:30am-6:30pm; tel: 7832-7577; www. Museo Arquidiocesano de Santi- adults/Q15, students w/carnet/Q10, chil- centrodeartepopular.com; museoartepop- ago de Guatemala 7 av. 6-73, z. 1, inte- dren; tels: 2331-3622, fax, 2331/3634; www. [email protected] rior Catedral Metropolitana; Tues-Fri., 9am- museoixchel.org 1pm, & 2pm-5pm, Sat., 9am-1pm & 2pm- El Museo Arte de Guatemala 4pm; adm. Q10, residents/Q5, students w/ *Museo Miraflores 7a calle 21-55, z. 11 (MAG) 5a av. sur #40 final, La Antigua carnet; Q20 non-residents, tel: 2504-6868, Paseo Miraflores; Tues.-Sun. 9am-7pm; tels: Guatemala; tel: 7832-8773; info@funba- ext. 2; bicentenariacatedralguatemala@ 2470-3415/18 guatemala.org not yet open to the public gmail.com, www.catedral.org.gt *Museo Nacional de Arqueología Museo Vical de Arte Precolom- *Museo Carlos F. Novella 15 av. y Etnología 6a calle & 7a av., z. 13, salón bino & Vidrio Moderno Casa Santo 18-01, z. 6, interior Finca La Pedrera; Mon- 5, Finca La Aurora; tel: 2475-4010, ext. 101; Domingo, 3a calle oriente #28, La Antigua Thurs., 8am-5pm, Fri., 8am-3pm; tel: 2286- www.munae.gob.gt Guatemala; Mon-Sat., 9am-6pm, Sun., 4100, ext. 6435; www.fundacioncarlosfno- 11:15am-6pm; tel: 7820-1220, adm. Q42. vella.org Servicio de Historia Militar- incls. entrance to all museums; museo- Museo del Ejército 24a calle 3-81, z. [email protected]; www.grupovical. Centro Cultura Arquidiocesano 1, interior Centro Cultural Miguel Ángel As- com/museo Pbro. Jorge Toruño Lizarralde turias, next to the open air theater, Castillo s.j. 11 av. 4-49, z. 1; Mon-Fri, 8:30am-1pm/ de San José de Buena Vista; M-Sat., 8am- EL Paseo de los Museos 3a calle ori- 2pm-4pm, Sat., reservation & groups, min. 5 4pm; tel: 2221-4322; museodelejercitogua- ente #28, La Antigua Guatemala; Mon-Sun., people; Adm., Q20 adults/free, children; tel: [email protected]; www.museo.mil.gt 9am-6pm; tel: 7820-1220; www.casasanto- 2230-1589; [email protected] domingo.com.gt; asoasnavar@casasanto- *Museo de la Universidad de domingo.com.gt *Galería Guatemala, Fundación San Carlos Guatemala 9a av. 9-79, G&T Continental 6 av. 9-08, z. 9. Lob- z. 1; M-F, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat., 9:30-1pm, by Banco G&T Continental; M-F 9am-7pm; closed Tues, Sat. & holidays; adm. Q1, resi- Jocotenango/Antigua tels: 2230-5072/6 & 8; www.fundaciongyt- dents/Q8, non-residents/free, students w/ continental.org carnet & university employees; tels: 2232- Museo Casa Kojom Centro Cultural 0721 & 2251-6840; www.musacenlinea.org la Azotea Jocotenango, Sacatepéquez; *Museo de Historia Natural USAC & [email protected] M-F, 9am-4pm; Sat., 9am-2pm; adm. Q50 & Jardín Botánico USAC, calle Mar- (incls. entrance to Coffee Museum); tels: iscal Cruz 1-56 z. 10; M-F, 8am-4pm; Adm. 7831-1483/7831-1486; [email protected] Q3; tels: (museo) 2334-6064 y 65, (jardín) www.kojom.org 2361-5451 & 57; facebook.com/museode- Santiago Sacatepéquez historianatural.usac; facebook.com/jardin- botanicousac; [email protected] Museo Regional de Santiago Sacatepéquez 3a calle 4-00, z. 4, San- Panajachel, Lake Atitlán tiago Sacatepéquez; Mon-Sun., 9am-4pm; 6a calle final, z. 10; Adm. Q5, residents/Q30, non-residents; tels: Museo Lacustre inside Hotel Posada M-F 9am-5pm, Sat., 9am-1pm; tels: 2338- 7830-2798 & 5679-4886; ottoniel11@hot- de Don Rodrigo, av. Santander, Mon-Sun., 7896 & 2338-7836; [email protected]; mail.com; www. santiaguerosenlinea.com 8am-6pm; adm, Q35, adults/Q20, stu- www.popolvuh.ufm.edu dents w/carnet 30 datebook

31 La Cueva de Panza Verde tels: 7955-8282, 7832-2925 5a av. sur #19, La Antigua May 14th, Sat., 5pm — “More Music, Less Violence” Mondays, 8-10pm — All proceeds support the initiatives of the Sistema de Obed García, classical piano. Q35 cover Orquestas de Guatemala (SOG). Donation suggested Tuesday, May 10th, 8-10pm — Maf é Túla: Swing, Jazz, Gypsy. Q35 cover Wednesdays, 8-10pm — Margie Sheran on Piano. Q35 cover Thursdays, 8-10pm — Nelson Lunding, Piano and Vocals from New Orleans. Q35 cover Fridays, 8-10pm — Cuban Trio: Piano, congas, flute. Q35 cover Saturdays, 8-10pm — Sergio Zepeda or Tito Santis: Acoustic Guitar. Q35 cover Sundays, 8-10pm — Sagan Jacobson: Acoustic guitar

May 7th, Sat., 5-6pm — MUSIC RECITAL. Ati Mamá, Bossa Nova & Boleros, by musicians Juan Luis Gramajo, Sofía Peralta and Quintero Ecléctico. No cover, donation suggested

Fridas tel: 7832-1296 Calle del Arco #29, La Antigua Del Arco Restaurant tel: 7832-3610 5a av. norte #20, La Antigua May 7, Saturday — El Gordo Saturdays, 7-9pm — Grupo Friends with Paula Herera Sundays, 1-4pm — Marimba May 13, Friday — Joaquin Sabina tribute by Jonathan Méndez

Trova Jazz EPICURE RESTAURANT tel: 2334-1241 Via 6, 3-55, zona 4, Guatemala City Tel: 7832-5522 3a avenida norte #11-B, La Antigua Friday Concerts — Call for schedule: Live music Saturdays — 7-9pm: Live music “El Trio” Thursdays through Saturdays. Sundays — 1-3pm: Live music “El Trio”

32 Rainbow Café tel: 7832-1919 7a av. sur #8, La Antigua Free Live Music Nightly from 8:00pm Mondays, 8pm — Different Guest Musicians. Tuesdays, 8pm — Gustavo: this local musician plays a mix of Latin and western classics Wednesdays, 8pm — Open Mic Night! Hosted by differ- ent musicians; come along and show your skills and get a free Rainbow shot! Thursdays, 8pm — Different Guest artists Fridays, 8pm — Los Dorados, harmonized covers and originals. Let’s travel with music. Saturdays, 8pm — A variety of bands and musicians! Las Palmas Sundays — The Blue Roots: Blues, reggae, jazz, tel: 7832-9734 6a av. norte #14, La Antigua funk, and more Mondays, 7:30 — Mateo, Rumba flamenco & French Tuesdays, 7:30 — Trujillo & René, Soft rock, bossa nova Wednesdays, 7:30 — Mateo, Rumba flamenco & French Thursdays, 7:30 — Gustavo Santos, raggae Fridays & Saturdays, 9:30pm — Live Salsa, Grupo Friends Sundays, 7:30 — Andean music

Los Tres Tiempos Arrin Cuan Tel: 7832-5161 5a av norte. #31, La Antigua tel: 2238-0242 5a av. 3-27, zona 1, Guatemala City Sundays — 2-5pm: Live music: Bolero Daily — Live marimba music tel: 7832-0831 Casa #2, Callejón Concepción 6, La Antigua Sundays — Live marimba music

CERRO SAN CRISTÓBAL Tel: 7832-2681 San Cristóbal El Alto, La Antigua Kape Paulinos Saturdays & Sundays, 1-3pm — Live Music tel: 7840-3806 Km 87.5 Carretera Interamericana, Tecpán (shuttle service available at Nim Po’t) Sundays — 1 to 4pm: Live marimba band

33 datebook

THROUGHOUT THE MONTH

THEATER Saturdays, 7, 14, 21 & 28, (English) DOCUMENTARY Thurs- 8pm (Spanish) Theatre Company Peo- days, 5-6pm Wings presents Blessed ple’s University presents The Legacy Fruit of the Womb: The Fight for of Tula de Hugo Carrillo with Reproductive Rights in Guate- performances by José Marío Massella, mala. Free. The Bagel Barn, 5a calle po- Elizabeth Marroquín, Adolfo Portillo and niente #2, La Antigua Anayancie Comparini. Q75 p/p. Centro Cultural ‘El Sitio’ 5a calle poniente #15, La Antigua

The Antigua Curry Club 2nd Thursday of each month. We are a membership club that meets the each month to eat (or sometimes even ART Contexto Natural by Lucía cook curry). Join us! See http://www. Morán Giracca, through May 29. Hotel cernikovsky.com, La Antigua Casa Santo Domingo (Sala de Artista) 3a calle oriente 28-A, La Antigua NGO TOUR (English) Thursdays, 8:30am Ciudad Vieja, you’ll see where ART Luz, Sombra y Reflejos, a many Niños de Guatemala families collective exposition by Beatriz Aycin- work and live. Also, visit the school built ena, Cristina Bickford, Guadalupe del by Niños de Guatemala. Q200/Q100, stu- Valle, Alejandra Flores y Patricia Ann de dents. Proceeds benefit Niños de Gua- González, through May 23. Galería del TEXTILE EXHIBITION A collection temala projects. Info., Antigua_office@ Centro, 5a av. 12-38, z. 1, Guatemala ninosdeguatemala.org; tel: 7832-8033. City of antique huipils, women’s and men’s tzutes (made of cotton, silk and ixcaco) La Antigua/Ciudad Vieja from Chichicastenango and environs. Through May 31. Casa del Tejido Antiguo PLAN AHEAD (7832-3169), 1a calle poniente #51, La RETREAT Sacred Expression Antigua Women’s Retreat Meditation, yoga, and self-exploratory writing in a wom- NGO TOUR (English) Mondays, en’s circle. Thurs. June 23 - Fri. July 1. ART Portales de Luz by María Vic- 10am & Thursdays, 2:30pm Com- Info: [email protected] & toria García, through May 27. Galería mon Hope offers a free two-hour www.thestorytellerwithin.com The Yoga Guatemala, Fundación G&T Continental, village tour, learn about its education, Forest, Lake Atitlán 6a av. 9-08, z. 9, Lobby Edificio Corpora- health care & housing programs. Meet tivo Banco G&T Continental, Guatemala at the fountain, central park; also private City tours avail., tel: 7922-6600. Visit www. Please submit your DATEBOOK entry commonhope.org La Antigua for the June 2016 edition by May 10

34 shopping & services guatemala city

Jazz Festival 2016 exhibition see page 26 (photo: freddy murphy)

35 guatemala city dining

Jazz Festival 2016 exhibition see page 26 (photo: freddy murphy)

36 dining guatemala city

RESTAURANTE ALTUNA A “Classic” in the center of Guatemala City & in Zone 10

Specializing in Spanish and Basque Cuisine, Seafood and Paella 5a av. 12-31, Zona 1 Tels: 2251-7185, 2253-6743 10 calle 0-45, Zona 10 PBX: 2201-2323 www.restaurantealtuna.com

37 guatemala city dining Shakespeare Pub Wi-Fi • Lunch Specials Happy Hour 11-5 Near all Major Hotels. 13 calle y 1a av., zona 10, local 5 Torre Santa Clara II Tel: 2331-2641

Café Bar Meals Drinks Books & Exhibitions • Live Music Thur-Sat Vía 6, 3-55, Z. 4, Guatemala City Resv: 2334-1241

A great building must begin with the unmeasurable, must go through measurable means when it is being designed and in the end must be unmeasurable. —Louis Kahn

Entry in the Revue Photo Contest: Historical Ruins in Guatemala. “Historia Sta. Lucía Milpas Altas dining Milenaria escrita en Piedra” Ruinas de Quirigua by Javier Alvarez Vassaux

guatemala city lodging

38 shopping & services guatemala city

In Nola Fabrics by the yard Ceramic-Jewelry, Wood-Leather & More Telephones: 2367-2424 - 2337-4498 18 Calle 21-31, z. 10 Blvd. Los Próceres - www.in-nola.com

IMPORTING? We’re your best choice, so leave every- thing in our hands. We guarantee weekly Consolidated Cargo Service, door-to-door from Miami to Guate- mala. Contact us and find out why we TRANSCARGO are the best option. [email protected] Tel: 2360-0407 ¿IMPORTACIONES? Somos su mejor opción, deje todo en nuestras manos. Garantizamos un Servicio de Carga Consolidada, semanal, puerta a puerta desde Miami a Guatemala. Contáctenos y compruebe porque somos lo mejor opción.

SEWING CENTER • CENTRO DE COSTURA • NAH CENTER CLOSING SALE -- LOTS OF DISCOUNTS! REPAIRS & ALTERATIONS 13 calle 5-24, z. 9, Guatemala City Tel: 2332-4017

Entry in the Revue Photo Contest: Historical Ruins in Guatemala. “Fancy Past; Splendorous Present” Yaxhá Ruins by Mishell Coloma Salguero Just tell ‘em, “Lo vi en la revista REVUE” 39 Doing Good, Says Who? cont. from page 22 is probably half the GDP of the entire village, and that probably Through the many vignettes most of the people don’t know what a check is. Then, he remembers presented in this fashion, other situations: the 16-year-old girl thrown out of her home when a foreigner gave her $100, because her mother thought she must have the reader feels Angélica’s prostituted herself. How else could she have received such a huge needs and Stanley’s amount of money? Then, there was the family who received a new home, and moved, not into the house, but to another village, when desire to help. jealous neighbors threatened them. Or the mother who had angrily told Joe “don’t make my child a beggar” when he gave a small boy a will want to be aware of the five prin- few coins. ciples, plus language and cultural differences. Debate continues about How, then, does Stanley reconcile Angélica’s needs with his well- whether a monetary contribution meaning desire to help her? may be more valuable than a week in which a volunteer develops blisters Angélica, Stanley, Joe and the $10,000 check may or may not building houses or planting trees. have been “real.” Authors Connie Newton and Fran Early, in their book “Doing Good…Says Who?” have protected the identity of A study done by Kurt Ver Beek, for their sources and combined aspects of several actual situations into instance, evaluated a project that built one “story.” Through the many vignettes presented in this fashion, houses in Honduras after a hurricane. the reader feels Angélica’s needs and Stanley’s desire to help, and be- Estimated expenses for volunteer trav- gins to understand ways in which this can be accomplished without el, food, and lodging meant that each creating harmful unintended consequences. The reader learns that, house built by volunteers cost $30,000. despite Stanley’s initial perception, Angélica may actually be better The same house built by locals cost off than many in her village. A donation to her micro-lending co-op, $2,000. An additional 14 houses could whose members provide her with emotional as well as financial sup- have been built with a monetary dona- port, will help her and others, and prevent Angélica from becoming tion of that amount, and locals would a target of envy. have received jobs.

Through readable and interesting accounts of help that didn’t help, What about the value of an encounter maybe helped, and actually helped, the authors have demonstrated with cultural differences to the volunteer the five principles they believe are necessary to intervene in a posi- himself? Ver Beek also tracked whether tive manner. 1) Respect and Value People. 2) Build Trust Through volunteers’ world-view or actions were Relationships. 3) Do “With” Rather Than “For.” 4) Ensure Feedback changed by the volunteer experience. and Accountability. 5) Evaluate Every Step of the Way. He discovered that, within six to eight weeks after the trip, there was little evi- How to follow those five principles during a one- or two-week dence of lasting changes, either in giving mission trip? The authors present the possibility of rethinking for mission or in attitudes toward others. the short term “volunteer” as a “visitor.” The visitor volunteer ...continued on page 66 40 health services

Counseling for Adults & Adolescents Gail Terzuola LISW LADAC Licensed Psychotherapist

Relationships Substance Abuse Trauma and Recovery Dra. Paulina Castejón M.D. Ophthalmology Botox Expert • Hyaluronic Acid Fillers • PRFM: Platelet-rich fibrin matrix • Facial Mesotherapy • Microdermoabrasion • Slimming & firming body treatments SKYPE appointments available Tels: (502) 7832-9746, 5239-3891 La Antigua Guatemala - 7832-5639 [email protected] www.clinicaoptyma.com Avenida El Desengaño No. 33, La Antigua Guatemala

Tel: 7832-4854 3a calle poniente #13, La Antigua Mon-Fri 10am-2pm & 3pm-6pm. Wed 10am-2pm. Sat 8am-11am 41 health services

Jorge E. De la Cruz DDS, P.C. Eastman Dental Center | Univ. of Rochester N.Y. Implants Laser bleaching Cosmetic dentistry Custom dentures Root canals Crowns and bridges (502) 7832-0125 (502) 2261-6875 3a avenida norte # 11A Blvrd. Los Próceres 18 calle, La Antigua Guatemala 24-69 zona 10, Torre 1 Of. 10-07 Empresarial Zona Pradera www.tuclinicadelacruz.com

When your mother asks, ‘Do you want a piece of advice?’ When you are a mother, you are never really alone in your it is a mere formality. It doesn’t matter if you answer yes thoughts. A mother always has to think twice, once for or no. You’re going to get it anyway. —Erma Bombeck herself and once for her child. —Sophia Loren

REVUEmag.com 42 health services Calzada Santa Lucia Sur #7, La Antigua Tels: 7832-3122, 7832-5789 HOUSE OF HEALTH

Emergency Service from 7:00am to 7:00pm Medical Clinics & Diagnostics General Medicine • Pediatric OB/GYN • Mammogram • Ultrasound X-Rays • Densitometry • Lab We accept major credit cards

Dra. Paulina Castejón M.D. Ophthalmology

Eye Diseases Diagnosis and Treatment Optical Services

Tels: (502) 7882-4281, 5239-3891 Avenida El Desengaño No. 33, La Antigua Guatemala [email protected] www.clinicaoptyma.com Hospital Privado Hermano Pedro aMedicine and General Surgery aCardiology aUltrasound aPediatrics aUrology aElectroencephalogram aMaternity & Gynecology aClinic Laboratory aOsseous Densitometry aTraumatology, Orthopedics & Arthroscopy aPharmacy aComputerized Axial Tomography aPlastic & Reconstructive Surgery aVideoendoscopy aMammography aLaparoscopic Videosurgery aVideocolonoscopy aAmbulance Service aOtorhinolaryngology aX-rays aUrology aElectrocardiogram

24-hour Emergency Service WE ACCEPT WORLD WIDE MEDICAL INSURANCE! [email protected] www.hospitalhermanopedro.net Av. de La Recolección #4, La Antigua (in front of the bus station) PBX: 7790-2000 Fax: 7790-2010 43 health services

General Dentistry Maxillofacial Surgery Dental Implants Dr. Luis Ramírez, DDS, OMS, Oral Rehabilitation is a specialist in oral and TMJ Therapy maxillofacial surgery, Jaw Surgery orthodontics, dental implants, Teeth Whitening and oral rehabilitation. Orthodontics

Tel: 7832-6002 Maxillofacial Centre is the ONLY ONE [email protected] with 3D Dental Tomography and www.maxillofacialcentre.com CAD/CAM Dental Lab in Guatemala.

Spanish, English and German Spoken - Calle Real de Santa Ines #9A La Antigua Guatemala

Mama was my greatest teacher, a teacher of compassion, love and fearlessness. If love is sweet as a flower, then my mother is that sweet flower of love. —Stevie Wonder

A mother’s happiness is like a beacon, lighting up the future but reflected also on the past in the guise of fond memories. —Honore de Balzac

44 health services

I am sure that if the mothers of various nations could My mother thinks I am the best. And I was raised to always meet, there would be no more wars. —E. M. Forster believe what my mother tells me. —Diego Maradona

José R. Golcher MD, Cornea, Cataract and Lasik surgeon Dalia González de Golcher MD, Vitreous-Retinal and Aesthetic medicine surgeon Specialized Ophthalmologists Make your appointment online at www.centrovisualgyg.com Happy MOTHER’s Day Principal: Centro Gerencial Marqués de Rubio Oficina 1-4 - Tel: 78325850/78739275/44314822 Branch: 6a calle poniente #50A - Tel: 78326672/78328105

7832-7274

REVUE le ofrece el costo más bajo por ejemplar para promocionar su negocio. 45 46 47 48 shops & services aNTIGUA

If a country is to be corruption free and become a nation of Positive feelings come from being honest about yourself beautiful minds, I strongly feel there are three key societal and accepting your personality, and physical characteristics, members who can make a difference. They are the father, warts and all; and, from belonging to a family that accepts the mother and the teacher. —A. P. J. Abdul Kalam you without question. —Willard Scott

It’s also selfish because it makes you feel good when you help My philosophy is that the most important aspect of others. I’ve been helped by acts of kindness from strangers. any religion should be human kindness. And to try to That’s why we’re here, after all, to help others. ease the suffering of others. To try to bring light and —Carol Burnett love into the lives of mankind. —Steven Seagal

49 aNTIGUA shops & services

Free Tour of our Organic Macadamia Farm! Free samples of our macadamia chocolates, FREE DELIVERY (Antigua) and facials with our skincare products. TUES & THUR Learn and contribute to our sustainable development project. Ask for our product list, which includes Organic, Tasty and Healthy BLUEBERRIES www.exValhalla.com [email protected] Tels: 5889-4925, 5671-9530, 7831-5799 15 minutes from Antigua Veterinary Clinic NOW ON Dr. Juan Pablo Calderón García - Vaccinations SALE! - Surgery - X-ray Coffee for - Dental Clinic a Cause - Ultrasound - Laboratory Services - Emergencies English, French, Spanish Spoken - Export licenses for pets * Gas anesthesia Proceeds Benefit Animal Welfare Programs Second-hand store featuring clothing, shoes, purses, lots of great books in English & Spanish, jewelry, artwork, house & kitchen wares, and much more 3a avenida sur #4-A, La Antigua Mon-Fri: 8am-1pm & 2:30-6pm Sat: 9am-1pm Open Mon-Fri, 8:30 to 5pm 2a Av. Sur #61-B Tels: 7832-3624, 5732-4808

Cynthia Burski, D.V.M. / Hugo Sican Pelen, D.V.M.

7832-4345, 5106-6860 Dogs, Cats, Birds, Exotics 4323-0726 Surgery - Hospitalization - Laboratory X-Ray - General Medicine - Boarding Antigua es única y nosotros somos unicos en la Antigua 2a calle oriente #6, La Antigua Tel: 7832-0245

revuemag.com FREE DELIVERY Pick up your monthly issue of REVUE at Babysitting Service for your Pet. REVUEmag.com Registered Establishment with lots of T.L.C. Tel: 5704-1029 50 shops & services aNTIGUA colibrí Full Service Beauty Salon Fine Handmade 9a calle oriente #7-A, La Antigua Guatemala Textiles Tels: 7832-2824, 5961-4332 & Home Decor Daily 9am-6pm Tel: 7832-5028 4a calle oriente #3-B, La Antigua [email protected]

Ask yourself: Have you been kind today? Make kindness 7832-7274 your daily modus operandi and change your world. —Annie Lennox

WINNER OF NINE INTERNATIONAL AND REGIONAL AWARDS Gourmet Cuisine Amalia’s Guatemalan Kitchen with a Cultural Flair Amalia Moreno-Damgaard is a native of Guatemala, an award-winning author, chef consultant, Latin food and culture strategist and entrepreneur. AVAILABLE AT • Sophos Bookstore (4a av. 12-59, z. 10, loc 1-D, Guatemala City ([email protected]) • Artemis Edinter • Colibri, 4a calle oriente #3-B, La Antigua ([email protected]) • AmaliaLLC.com • Amazon.com • barnesandnoble.com

51 Today, public schools supply teachers and classrooms but no school supplies, making it very difficult for the economically challenged.

the economically challenged to get an education. Many low income kids rely on NGOs for education. Depending on a family’s income, Facade detail, Casa Convento Concepción La Antigua (hadazul cruz) tuition for private schools can put Education in Guatemala cont. from page 14 quite a strain on their budget.

under the supervision of nuns of Concepcion and lived a cloistered life until old enough to choose between marriage or becoming a nun.” (Verle L. Annis; The Architecture of Antigua Guatemala 1543-1773) The school later moved to Capuchinas Convent. In- deed, education for women in colonial times was limited.

With educational reforms in the 1870s, public schools opened to boys and girls. Today the Guatemalan government has such a meager budget for education that public schools provide teachers and classrooms but no school supplies, making it very difficult for

Rectoría Universidad de San Carlos, Guatemala City

Colegio Tridentino, La Antigua (hadazul cruz)

Today there are 12 universities throughout the country as higher education has become a goal for Guatemala’s youth to get better-pay- ing jobs. 52 shops & services aNTIGUA

53 Amalia’s Kitchen Desayuno text & photos by chef and author — A Great Way to Start the Day Amalia Moreno-Damgaard

uatemalans consider breakfast and lunch to be the most boiled or scrambled. On the week- important meals of the day. These meals are usually larger end, they can be huevos estrellados than the evening meal. Families with school-age children con chirmol frito (eggs sunny-side up pay special attention to serving nutritious breakfasts. Bal- with tomato and onion pan sauce) Gance and quality are both important. or huevos revueltos con tomate y ce- bolla ó tortilla (scrambled eggs with Because fresh fruits and vegetables are abundant and varied in Gua- tomatoes and onions or corn tortilla temala, it’s easy to make a nourishing meal during a busy morning. bits). The typical accompaniments Guatemalan breakfast dishes are simple but tasty and wholesome. for eggs are black beans in any style and either corn tortillas or Guatema- Mosh (creamy whole oats with cinnamon and milk) is a favorite of lan-style French bread (an elongated the young and the old. Eggs are prepared in many styles depending crusty loaf divided into bun-like sec- on the day of the week. On weekdays they can be soft-boiled, hard- tions, with a delicious gummy core).

54 Guatemalan breakfast dishes are simple but tasty and wholesome.

Another breakfast option for the weekend or for brunch is panqueques con miel de abeja (pan- cakes with honey). These are medium-thick crepe- like cakes that can be made in minutes. Pan fried plantains are a good complement to any meal. For heavier appetites, Guatemalan chorizo and lon- ganiza sausages make a great side.

In my grandmother’s town in the countryside, tamalitos de elote (fresh corn and butter mini-ta- males topped with fresh cream) were a very special treat. She made them especially when we had visi- tors. Guineo mojoncho con leche was another favorite breakfast dish. This is red-skinned bananas grilled over charcoals, peeled, cut into chunks, mashed, and added to hot milk in a bowl. We ate this dish

Sofrito

like cereal. At school, whole (not rolled) oats were cooked in milk.

Traditional breakfast drinks include freshly squeezed orange juice and licuados (blended drinks made with seasonal fresh fruit and milk). Guatemalan café con leche (coffee with hot milk) is also popular.

In my own home, I have had a breakfast routine for years. My son sits at the breakfast bar and watches me prepare his food. Subconsciously he is learning to Mosh

55 make good choices about food—especially when he is away from home—just as I learned by watching my grandmother. I’ve developed simple menus mimick- ing my childhood breakfasts to show him that cooking and eating good, fresh food isn’t hard.

Here’s our typical breakfast routine (in this order): a multivitamin, a small plate of three or four different fruits cut into small pieces, mosh or whole-grain ce- real with skim milk, and eggs in different styles. I vary the routine occasionally to include other choices and Scrambled eggs with tomatoes and onions to prevent boredom. My biggest reward is that now he can make his own breakfast with good food choices. tortilla bits or cooked chorizo instead of tomatoes and Below is an easy and delicious recipe that is very onions. Accompany the eggs with Frijoles Chapines near and dear to my heart. (Guatemalan black beans any style) and Tortillas de Maíz (corn tortillas). Or serve the eggs atop a pan- fried corn tortilla with beans on the side. You can also modify this recipe by making the eggs sunny side up and using the onion and tomato comb.

Serves 2 people

2 large or 3 small eggs 1 tablespoon canola oil 2 1/2 tablespoons finely diced Roma tomatoes 1 tablespoon finely diced yellow onion 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Beat the eggs until fluffy and set aside. HUEVOS REVUELTOS CON TOMATE Y CEBOLLA 2. Add the oil to a heated medium nonstick skillet. Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes and Onions Add the tomatoes and onion and season with salt. Cook at medium heat until saucy and thick, (about recipe by Amalia Moreno-Damgaard 3 minutes). Taste and adjust salt, if needed. This delicious and easy recipe is as Guatemalan as corn tortillas. Try it when you’re getting tired of the same 3. Add the eggs and combine well with the sauce. old scrambled eggs. Guatemalans modify the recipe in Continue to cook until eggs are cooked and smooth many ways. For example, sometimes people add corn (2 to 3 minutes). 56 57 This past year, nine of San Bernabé’s 76 middle school students were in the top 10 in the country at their grade level, qualifying more middle school stu- dents for the national finals than any other school in the country. Graduates of the high school are attend- ing San Carlos University. Meanwhile, benches reflect- ing national champions or top three placements in the Burger King “King of Math” competition are located in both the elementary and high school atriums.

Science Olympiads Top 10 group When Project Village arrived in the village of San Bernabé in 2006, there were six students in third grade, Project Village cont. from page 19 none of whom had a possibility to study past sixth grade. Two exceptional students from this grade, due to the assistance of Project Village and its extraordinary gram expanded to include families who live outside the efforts, have won full scholarships and are currently village. Currently, 270 students are enrolled in Colegio studying at prestigious two-year international baccalau- San Bernabé, which extends from kindergarten through reate preparatory programs in Freiberg, Germany and high school. San José, Costa Rica. The total value of their scholar- ships is $136,000, more than the combined yearly in- Colegio San Bernabé is a private school, and there- come of San Bernabé’s inhabitants. fore receives no government funding. Village children attend tuition free, while children living outside the vil- In 2013, the last year that the test was administered, lage pay approximately Q15,000 per year. Their parents the ninth-graders at San Bernabé received a 90 percent are expected to contribute meaningfully to the school, achievement rate in mathematics and a 75 percent in the same way that the village parents continue to do, achievement rate in language on the national standard- with manual labor. The original building is much ex- ized tests. The national averages were 18 percent and 14 panded, and Project Village, with the participation of ...continued on following page the villagers and the school’s parents, built a high school Temporary high school science lab building last year on land it purchased about a kilome- ter below the village.

San Bernabé students at all levels have won many prestigious academic competitions with students at- tending schools generally thought to be Guatemala’s fin- est. In the last three years, 14 different middle and high school students, of a student body of approximately 100 students, have qualified as one of the top 10 students in the nation in their grade level in either math, science or physics in the Science Olympiads, the most prestigious academic competition in the country.

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59 listened to their desires. They made a commitment to support and help them, but in a collaborative manner.

They delivered the building materials. If the fa- thers had not built the initial lab, it would not have been built. Project Village has demanded accountabil- ity from students, parents and teachers. A 95 percent attendance record is required for a village student to continue to attend the school free of charge. Moth- ers supervise the elementary children every day during Inside the new high school recess and lunch, and parents have donated countless weekends and evenings working at the school. Evalu- Project Village cont. from previous page ation of academic programs has been ongoing, and effectiveness is clear in the academic achievements of percent, respectively. In 2014, the high school students the students. And yes, 10 years later, Vince is still very received a 100 percent achievement rate in mathemat- much involved in Project Village. ics and a 70 percent achievement rate in language. The national averages were 8.7 percent and 26 percent, re- spectively. Only 10 of the over 3,100 high schools in the country achieved the 100 percent mark.

San Bernabé has seen two small high school gradu- ation classes. Most of these graduates now travel each day by van provided by Project Village to attend San Carlos University in Guatemala City. They are studying civil and computer engineering, accounting, business administration, medicine and agriculture.

“Doing Good...Says Who?” authors Connie New- ton and Fran Early have outlined five principles they consider necessary for a successful collaborative “help- ing” mission. 1) Respect and Value People. 2) Build Trust Through Relationships. 3) Do “With” Rather Than “For.” 4) Ensure Feedback and Accountability. 5) Evaluate Every Step of the Way. Newton and Early also point out that much more can be accomplished with a sustained commitment over time, rather than in short Elementary exams “mission” trips. www.projectvillageguatemala.org U.S. tax-deductible donations: Project Village clearly demonstrates these values put Project Village Guatemala Foundation, into action. Vince and Tom respected the villagers and 1890 Wynkoop St #603 Denver, CO 80202

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Doing Good, Says Who? cont. from page 40

What then is the positive side of a week or two of “Doing Good?” handbook for those who have par- NGO staff report that short-term visits are good for fundraising over ticipated in missions, are about to go time. Often church or other groups become involved, and members of on a mission or are considering such the extended group contribute and come to visit, increasing the circle a trip in the future, or are presently in of contributors. Then, too, a handful of the short-termers come back short- term or long-term “helping” for a year or two, when relationships can be built, and much more ac- roles. “Doing Good…Says Who?” complished. will foster thought and discussion that will certainly help the volunteer The authors hope that the five principles for “Doing Good” will to “Do Good.” provide a GPS for long- or short-term “helpers” in any role: volun- teer, NGO staff or donor. The principles apply not only to Guatemala, To purchase this book visit but also to any situation where there is an imbalance of power and http://doinggoodsayswho.com resources; where one group is in need, and the other has the ability to help resolve the need. “Doing Good…Says Who?” is an easy-to-read

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Jungle of Stone cont. from page 16 sophistication overturned the West’s assumptions about the development of civilization.

Today, the Maya are justly famous, if sometimes mis- understood, while Stephens and Catherwood have been all but forgotten. Based on Carlsen’s meticulous research and his own 2,500-mile journey throughout the Yucatan and Central America, “Jungle of Stone” is equally a thrill- ing adventure narrative and a revelatory work of history that corrects our understanding of the Maya and the two remarkable men who set out in 1839 to find them.

Carlsen is no stranger to the region, having lived for many years in La Antigua Guatemala. Now a resident of So- noma County, California, Carlsen is a journalist and writer who has worked for the New York Times and San Francisco Chronicle and has taught journalism at the University of California at Berkeley. He was a finalist for the 1999 Pulitzer Prize for explanatory writing for a series of articles on the dangers of reused needles in the developing world and from needle sticks among healthcare workers.

… “Jungle of Stone” is an epic tale that brings to life one of the greatest, yet least known exploration stories of the 19th century. “A captivating history of two men who dra- matically changed their contemporaries’ view of the past.” —Kirkus Reviews

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69 own objectives and the standards of accreditation from spring 2012 through the 2014 school year.

3) The Team Visit A team, composed of qualified administrators and teachers from other NEASC-accredited schools, visits the school for at least four days, following the completion of the self-study. The primary func- tion of the team is to provide an objective assessment of the conclu- sions of the self-study, in the light of the school’s own philosophy and The Antigua International School cont. from page 20 objectives, and the standards for accreditation. The team writes a The accreditation process involves AIS was ready to begin the ac- detailed report, for the school and five basic steps, during which each creditation process, was awarded for NEASC-CIE, which addresses school is required to have a clear to AIS as a result of that visit. these issues. For each area studied, statement of philosophy and objec- the team offers a description of its tives and is evaluated in terms of how 2) The Self-Study observations and perceptions, and well it meets its own stated purposes. The self-study is the most im- a set of commendations and rec- In addition, each school is required portant part of the accreditation ommendations with regard to ac- to meet a set of agreed upon written process in commitment of time creditation. The team visit to AIS standards for accreditation, devel- and effort. During this period, occurred in May 2014. oped and endorsed by educational the school studies itself, in order ...continued on following page Agriculture is in the curriculum peers, in each area of its operation. to make an honest assessment of whether it is meeting both is The steps toward accreditation by own objectives and the written NEASC-CIT are: standards for accreditation de- termined and endorsed by edu- 1) The Candidacy Visit cational peers. Areas that must The school receives a two- to be studied during this phase are: three-day visit from at least two 1) school guiding statements, 2) members of NEASC-CIT, expe- teaching and learning, includ- rienced educators themselves, to ing access to teaching and learn- ascertain the school’s readiness to ing 3) governance and leadership, undertake a self-study. For AIS, 4) faculty and support staff, 5) the candidacy visit occurred dur- school culture and partnerships ing the spring of 2012. Candidacy for learning, 6) operational sys- status, meaning that the team felt tems. AIS worked on achieving its 70 dining aNTIGUA

71 students applied to several colleges or universities, the group of 14 has, in total, been accepted to 38 institutions throughout the world. These include:

In the United States: Northeast- ern University, Purdue University, Syracuse University, Penn State, Michigan State, University of Colo- rado at Boulder, Boston University, Texas Christian University, American University, George Mason Universi- ty, Rochester Institute of Technology, University of Miami, University of Tampa, University of Southern Cali- fornia, Virginia Tech and 15 other The Antigua International School from previous page universities and colleges.

4) Decision on Accreditation 5) Subsequent Procedures In Canada: University of British The NEASC-CIE reviews carefully Review of an accredited school Columbia and Emily Carr University. the visiting team report and con- continues, after the award of ac- In Europe: Erasmus University, in the siders the recommendations of the creditation, to ensure that the Netherlands; University of Rotter- visiting team relative to accredita- school continues to meet standards dam; and University of Applied Sci- tion. The commission then makes a of accreditation. ences, in Bern, Germany. In Mexico: recommendation, upon which the AIS will make a two-year report to Anahuac Mayab. In Guatemala: Uni- governing body of NEASC acts. NEASC-CIE, addressing areas of versidad Francisco Marroquin and The decision may be to: a) award commendation and recommenda- De Valle de Guatemala. accreditation, b) defer accredita- tion made by the accrediting team tion, c) not award accreditation. in its report to NEASC-CIE. An additional affirmation of the Another onsite evaluation, by pro- value seen by accepting colleges and NEASC-CIE initially deferred ac- fessional educators sanctioned by universities is the amount of merit creditation to AIS, until the school NEASC-CIE, will occur five years scholarships that they provide for could continue development of sever- following the initial evaluation. incoming students whom the col- al areas regarding standards of accredi- lege would like to see attend its tation. This meant more self-study on Perhaps the value of the effort by school. AIS’ 14 graduating students the part of the school, and a return AIS to meet standards for accredita- have received a total of $189,000 team visit in January 2016. During tion can best be seen in the recogni- in merit scholarships from colleges that visit, the team determined that tion of these standards by colleges and and universities in the United States. AIS had reached standards for accred- universities worldwide in their accep- These awards were based solely on itation in all areas, and recommended tance of graduating AIS students. In recognition of outstanding academic accreditation, which has since been June 2017, AIS will have its first grad- achievement in a NEASC-CIE ac- awarded. uating class of 14 students. Since most credited school. 72 73 aNTIGUA lodging

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A true conservationist is a man who knows that the world It is not the beauty of a building you should look at; is not given by his fathers, but borrowed from his children. its the construction of the foundation that will —John James Audubon stand the test of time. —David Allan Coe

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77 The Fire Department brotherhood between both Sister Cities has been going on since the beginning of this project.

Fire Truck cont. from page 17

Coral Gables has also donated training, special thermal helmets, pro- tective gear, hoses and other equipment to the Antigua Fire Department.

“The Fire Department brotherhood between both Sister Cities has been going on since the beginning of this project,” Arévalo said. “They have greatly improved the readiness of our department.” Mayor Cason greets a local fireman With a reach of 110 feet, the truck was transported from South Flori- Among early Sister Cities ex- da’s Homestead Air Reserve Base to Guatemala’s La Aurora International changes were hundreds of jaca- Airport aboard a Boeing C-17 military cargo jet. The vehicle, manufac- randa trees that Antigua donated tured in 1985, was part of the Coral Gables fleet for more than 25 years. to help restore Coral Gables’ green Mayor Ascencio presents Mayor Cason with a key to the city canopy following the devastation of Hurricane Andrew in 1992. Nu- merous educational, cultural and civic exchanges have followed.

“The benefits of these events and the exchange of communica- tion between the Sister Cities is im- measurable,” said Nancy Sanabria, member of the Coral Gables In- ternational Affairs Coordinating Council. “The friendship and sup- port benefit all the people living in and near the Sister Cities.”

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If all mankind were to disappear, the world would regenerate back to the rich state of equilibrium that existed ten thousand years ago. If insects were to vanish, the environment would collapse into chaos. —E. O. Wilson

After all, sustainability means running the global environment “Earth Inc.” like a corporation: with depreciation, amortiza- tion and maintenance accounts. In other words, keeping the asset whole, rather than undermining your natural capital. —Maurice Strong

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tar. “It was natural for me,” he said, mentioning that he started his first band at the age of 11. Today, various members of Felipe’s teenage bands have been performing together for 30 years.

Felipe also discovered the pan pipes when he was 11. “We went to a concert and heard the group Ri- eses from Peru. It was completely new music. Outside Peru, no one had heard the pipes before. We bought all their cassettes and taught Music is my Inheritance ourselves to play the pipes and their music.” — Nery Felipe Priego Huertas by Louise Wisechild “When I was 14, we decided to play on sixth avenue in Guatemala City. At this time, no one was play- he passion for music is in my blood, literally,” says Nery Fe- ing music on the street in Guate- “ lipe Priego Huertas, who was born in Guatemala City. His mala, so we became the first. This is mother is from the Pacific coast, his father a Quiche from a time we call ‘era de oro’ when it Huehuetenango. “In those days,” he says, “people from these was safe to be out in the city. When Tdifferent locations would not have met. But my father worked on the we played people would wave to us train. His job was to run along the top of the moving train and climb from their cars and stand around down to tighten the bolts that held the trains together. My mother was a us to listen. Our music made them vendor working on the train. One day, my father was playing the guitar happy. No one was rejecting it.” during his rest time and my mother came down the aisle with her goods and began singing with him.” Felipe grins, “It was love. There was always His family though, was not sup- music in my house, all of us, my seven brothers and sisters played music.” portive. “They were ashamed that I would play music on the sidewalk. Felipe began playing the marimba with his father’s family when he They thought it was not dignified.” was 4. In school he learned the Guatemalan flute, then began the gui- But Felipe continued playing. “In the 82 83 derly, we would stage entire performances for the pas- Music is my Inheritance from previous page sengers.” There he learned how to play a variety of in- struments, some found only in South America. street many different people can hear live music,” he said. Felipe studied to be a music teacher at the Univer- After four years in Chile, Felipe moved to Argentina sity of San Carlos in Guatemala City, paying his way where he studied and performed for eight years. He then by performing in the streets and working with his moved to Mexico where he taught music and continued uncle as a carpenter. “When I attended university, we performing and adding songs from Mexico to his col- had 16 courses of music. Then almost every school in lection. Today Felipe’s repertoire encompasses over 500 Guatemala had a piano. During the war, music became songs, including “all the songs of Guatemala, as well as only drums. When I returned to Guatemala three years many from Mexico and Latin music of all styles, from ago, after being gone for 16 years, I was shocked at the classical to cumbia to pop.” minimum education offered music teachers now, even though Guatemala has a rich musical tradition.” One of In 1996, Felipe founded the first group to play in El his projects is to further music education in Guatemala. Parque Central in La Antigua Guatemala. He continues to perform there with Artensanos del Viente on Sunday In 1996, Felipe traveled to Chile where he worked afternoons, offering an exciting blend of Latin American with the trabajadores del arte, professional street musi- music. He also plays the marimba with Paabanck. Felipe cians who provide multi-instrumental concerts—not can also be found performing on the streets and in the only on the streets but also on the trains and buses. local restaurants of San Pedro La Laguna, where he con- “Chile’s transportation is much quieter and more or- tinues to bring live music directly to the people.

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When you carry out acts of kindness you get a wonderful An education isn’t how much you have committed to feeling inside. It is as though something inside your body memory, or even how much you know. It’s being able to responds and says, yes, this is how I ought to feel. differentiate between what you know and what you don’t. —Harold Kushner —Anatole France

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88 pacific coast / monterrico

• Large rooms with private bath & hot water ATE M A U L • A/C • Direct TV & DVD G A • Minibar, Coffee maker & Hair dryer • Luxuriously equipped suites • Bar El Galeón with A/C • Big pool decorated with Venetian mosaic • Pool bar, Games for kids and Heliport • Bar & International restaurant

Reservations: (502) 2332-7161 • Tels 7848-1742/43 www.caymansuites.com.gt • Monterrico km 133 89 photo by Willy Posadas

90 pacific coast / monteRrico

www.hawaianparadise.com 8 kms after Monterrico Tels: 5361-3011, 5466-4781, 5587-9010

Tels: 5456-9854 3062-0886

Hotel & Restaurant PLAYA SALTAMONTE Monterrico [email protected]

Education is the ability to listen to almost anything without losing your temper or your self-confidence. —Robert Frost

It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. —Aristotle

Reservations 4005-0500 & 4503-0386, Km. 8 Carretera de Monterrico a Hawai www.hotelhonolulu.com.gt — [email protected]

Reservations: Tel: 5709-3202 Guatemala City 9:00 am a 6:00 pm

[email protected] Monterrico 5232-9534 Monterrico Beach, Taxisco www.pezdeoro.com

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91 tecpán

Kapé La Nonna

Entry in the Revue Photo Contest: Historical Ruins in Guatemala. “Cielos y Templos de Iximche” Tecpán by Calvin Villatoro

92 quetzaltenango

#1 in Pasta * Wine * Cakes and the Best Pizza in Xela! (home delivery service) PBX: 7761-2521, 7761-9439 15 av. y 4a calle Zona 1, C.C. Santa Rita 2do Niv, Quetzaltenango Casa Doña Mercedes Hostal Offering comfortable rooms with private and shared bath. Clean, Safe, Good Atmosphere 6a calle y 14 av 13-42, zona 1 Quetzaltenango Tels: 5687-3305, 7765-4687 www.hostalcasadonamercedes.com.gt

I call architecture frozen music. —Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Entry in the Revue Photo Contest: Historical Ruins in Guatemala. “Templo-Palacio de Zaculeu” Huehuetenango by Edgar López Franco

93 izabal / puerto barrios / río dulce Velasquez, Oscar www.flickr.com/photos/oscarvelasquezphotography

(502) 7930-5494 Río Dulce, (502) 4145-3901 Izabal, (502) 7930-5495 Guatemala

www.catamaranisland.com [email protected]

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94 MarketplaceMarketplace

IMMIGRATIONSERVICES Visas & Residencies • Legal Advice • Work Permits Companies & Off Shore Trademark • Translations • Guatemala City: 12 c. 1-25 z. 10 Géminis 10, Torre Sur, 11 floor, office #1111 Tels. 2335-3031, 2335-2849 • La Antigua: 5a av. sur #6, interior 1, Restaurante Monoloco, Tels. 7832-4216 / 7832-4195 [email protected] www.immigrationguate.com Tax Service for U.S. Expats (IRS authorized Enrolled Agents) We have been serving U.S. expats in Guatemala Far better is it to dare mighty things, to win glorious since 2012. Our office is based in Antigua. triumphs, even though checkered by failure... than to [email protected] www.holaexpat.com rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much, because they live in a gray twilight that knows not The goal of education is the advancement of knowledge victory nor defeat. —Theodore Roosevelt and the dissemination of truth. —John F. Kennedy

FUN, FREE and INFORMATIVE Just tell ‘em, “Lo vi en la revista REVUE” 95 MarketplaceMarketplace

Reach 40,000 readers monthly with your Marketplace Classified. Info: [email protected] or 7931-4500

ANNOUNCEMENTS HEALTH SERVICES HEALTH SERVICES SWEETWATER GROUP OF ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS: Meets DR. BOCALETTI, Family Practitioner, Tropical Disease Di- Dr. Julio Molina MD, American Board of Psy- every Saturday 12 noon & Wed. 12 noon at Hacienda ploma: Attention to adults & children, vaccinations, chiatry and Neurology certified. Specializing in Tijax, Río Dulce, Izabal. Tels: 5902-7825, 5201-5361. Spanish and English spoken. Mon-Fri 3pm-6pm. Anxiety and Mood Disorders, Attention and Memo- 3a. av. norte #1, La Antigua (behind the Cathedral). ry Disorders and Sleep Disorders. Mind Gym in Anti- Panajachel 12 Step Meeting, Tuesday 10am 0-72 Fax: 7832-4835 [email protected] gua. 4 Avenida Sur Prolongacion, # 8. Tel: 7832-3374. Calle Principal (across from Kodak, above the bak- ery. Around the back and up the stairs). Cafe Nepal, Centro de Parto Natural Ixchel (Guatemala City) (A short walk up from main SC dock, on the right) Over 20 years experience. Natural and water- FOR SALE email: [email protected] tel: 3028 5716. birth. German Midwife attended. Spanish, Eng- BLUEBERRIES/ARÁNDANO AZUL: Organic, super tasty lish, German spoken. OB, GYN, contraception, CLUB ROTARIO, Meets every Wednesday 7pm at Por- and very healthy. Orgánicos, dulces y muy salu- workshops, natural remedies. Referral to trusted ta Hotel Antigua (except last Wed. of the month). dables. Tels: 7831-5799, 5671-9530. Call 7832-7600 http://www.rotaryantigua.org/ MD and humanized Csec. if needed. Antigua housecalls, Info: 5709-2308, hannahcdp@gmail. CRAFT BEER & MEZCAL, Brooklyn Lager and IPA Q279/ MOZART LODGE #20, conducts a “family” or com. Follow us on facebook! case. Ilegal Mezcal-Joven Q250, Reposado Q320, “Table lodge” Antigua, Guatemala, at 6:00 Añejo Q499. Free delivery in Antigua. Call 5844-6503. pm. 1st & 3rd Thursday. Call John at 5773-0085 DR. ARGUETA, GENERAL PSYCHIATRY, board qualified Cornell University, N.Y. TREATMENT of Anxiety, Tienda Solidaridad, 3a avenida sur #4-A, ST. ALBANS EPISCOPAL CHURCH SERVICE IN ENGLISH. Sun- Depression, Bipolar Disorder, Schizophrenia, Ad- Antigua, second-hand shop featuring jewelry, days 10:00am. Rev. John R. Smith, vicar. Casa Con- dicion, Overweight. Psychotherapy individual and books, clothing, shoes, framed photography & vento Concepción, 4a calle oriente #41, La Antigua. couples. 4a av. sur Prolongación #2, La Antigua. prints, DAWGGONE GOOD (premium) COFFEE, so- Tel: 5235-6674 Tel: 4095-7255. lar oven, printers, furniture and more. VIDA REAL TV CHURCH: Join us for an experience with HEALING HANDS THERAPY SPA: Physical therapy, deep God. Sundays: Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, Audito- tissue massage therapy, full service spa. Owned COFFEE FOR A CAUSE rium Los Atrios, 8am and 10am; and Hotel Intercon- and operated by US licensed physical therapist. 3a COFFEE FOR SALE tinental, 14 calle 2-51, z. 10, 3rd level, 10am, simul- av. norte #20A. Call Micky Morrison for appt. 7832- Enjoy a great blend of taneous translation. Special program for children. 1648, 5393-2311. coffee while helping Counseling for Adults & Adolescents. Relation- support animal ships, Substance Abuse, Trauma and Recovery. welfare programs. Would you like Licensed Psychotherapist Gail Terzuola, MSW, LA- Available at to donate to help DAC. La Antigua. Tel: 7832-5639. 3a ave sur #4-A, Antigua. DIANNE SENA - MSW, LISW - Psychotherapist U.S. Cer- Proceeds from sales are animals in distress? tified and Licensed. Treating anxiety and depres- used to help animals in distress. sion. Teaching interpersonal problem-solving Follow us: skills. Encouraging personal growth. Office in An- What wisdom can you find that facebook.com/UnidosParaLosAnimales tigua. Tel: 7937-0278. is greater than kindness? —Jean-Jacques Rousseau

PET Q’s & A’s by Cynthia Burski, DVM Spitters, Scratchers, & Snappers Question: I have always heard that a dry, warm nose on a puppy means that he is sick. Is this true?

While a fever could cause a warm nose, only a thermometer can determine whether a pet has a high temperature or not. Useful signs indicating that your pup might not feel well are if he stops eating and wanting to play. Additional misbeliefs include adding garlic to a dog's diet will ward off fleas and eating grass is due to a nutritional disorder. In fact, adding garlic to the diet not only does not eliminate fleas, if given in large quantities, garlic is toxic and can destroy red blood cells that can cause ane- mia. Some dogs eat grass when their stomach is upset but other dogs eat grass for no apparent reason.

REVUE le ofrece el costo más bajo por lector para promocionar su negocio. 96 MarketplaceMarketplace

SERVICES FUN STUFF FOOD & LODGING HI-TECH REPAIR, SUPPORT AND SALE: Digital camer- RAVENSCROFT RIDING STABLES: Tels: 7830-6669, 5408- Finca Ixobel: Ecological hotel & guest house offers as, iPods, computers, Windows, Mac, laptops, 7057 (English owners) 2a av. sur. #3, San Juan del cheap accommodations, great food, activities and desktops. Virus problems and upgrades. Enlaces, Obispo (2 miles south of Antigua). English (Euro- friendly service. Not far from Tikal or Río Dulce. 6a av. norte #1, La Antigua. Tel: 7832-5555. pean) style riding on fit, well-trained horses. Ac- Visit www.fincaixobel.com companied scenic rides & equitation lessons from SWORN (LEGAL) TRANSLATOR. Professional transla- beginner to intermediate level, intensive courses Café Condesa Deli-Shoppe, Cakes, Pies, Muffins, tion of legal and ordinary documents. Duly reg- our speciality. Boots & helmets provided. Please call Scones, Smoothies, Granola, Coffee and more. In- istered at the Ministry of Education, U.S. and Eng- for reservations & more info. side La Casa del Conde, west side of Central Park, La land Embassies. Contact: [email protected] or Antigua. Tel: 7832-0038 Phones: 5417-9079, 5693-7475, 2261-0792 Adventure: Mountain tours, mountain biking, mule riding, canopy tours, paintball games, birdwatch- INTERPRETER B.A. Simone Tessari, Enlish-Spanish, ing, coffee tour and tasting. Finca Filadelfia, Tel: WANTED Spanish-English, [email protected] Tel: 7728-0800, www.filadelfia.com.gt Looking for an experienced videographer with 4151-2117. INTÉRPRETE Licda. Simone Tessari. Inglés strong editing skills. Contact Amalia@AmaliaLLC. Español, Español-Inglés. Call: 4151-2117 or email: FREE VISIT TO OUR ORGANIC MACADAMIA FARM! Free com [email protected] samples of our chocolates & nuts, facials with our skincare products. Learn & contribute to our sustain- FINGERPRINT-PASSWORD DOOR LOCKS, Adele: Guaran- Looking to buy a U.S. tagged and titled car or truck able development project. Contact us for reserva- teed fit, easy instalation, reversible handle. Metal with recent Guatemala entry paperwork. email: tions at [email protected], www.exvalhalla. construction resists breakage and vandalism. [email protected] cell: 45285436 com or 5889-4925, 5671-9530, 7831-5799. Mechanical keys for emergency use. Contact Mul- tibusiness Group, S.A. [email protected] Tels: BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY EMPLOYMENT (502)5204-4260, 4990-2468. Flex/Action script: Positions available for pro- IMMIGRATION SERVICES: José Caal will do your visa KEY LEASE FOR RISTORANT E PIZZERIA NAPOLI, several grammers (including trainees) staying or living in extensions, residencies, stamps from old passports meters from La Antigua’s Central Park. Restaurant, Antigua. Short and Long Term. See www.veeops. to new one. Anything regarding immigration. Tel: hotel & a place to live. 40 years of accreditation. To- com/jobs or contact [email protected] 5518-3128 (office hours) [email protected] tally equipped (water, electricity, cable). Tels: 4803- 4607, 5416-1748, [email protected] TRAVEL COMPANY: w/ 10 years of Central American ex- perience is looking for minimum 2-year-commitment INSTRUCTION for the following positions: sales (creative design & Horseback Riding, English Equitation Classes: from pricing of individualized travel for a wide variety of beginner to intermediate level. Taught by English clients), & operations. Requirements: fluent English, instructress. See also ad under “Fun Stuff” - Raven- strong computer skills & be a fit with our culture of scroft Riding Stables. Tels: 7830-6669, 5408-7057. honesty, sustainability & innovation. Send detailed We rescue suffering, CV and cover letter to [email protected] MEDITATION COURSE, Primordial sound by certified instructor from the Deepak Chopra Center (Calif.). homeless animals For more info. please call or drop by (mornings in dire need. se busca only). Tel: 7832-0245, 2a calle oriente #6, ask for We prevent their ejecutivo(a) de ventas con experiencia Cynthia. Classes in English or Spanish. mistreatment through education. We spay and neuter them and CV a: [email protected] If your business is not worth advertising, o contactar a John al 7931-4500 then advertise it for sale. facilitate adoption. You can help: [email protected] PBX: 7931-4500 www.mayanfamilies.org/animals

English (European) style riding on fit, well-trained horses Offering accompanied scenic rides & PRIVATE equitation lessons from beginner to intermediate level Intensive courses our speciality • Taught by English instructress • Boots and helmets provided Livery / Boarding facilities available

San Juan del Obispo, 2a av sur #3 (10 min by car from Antigua) Tels: 7830-6669 or 5408-7057 97 Entry in the Revue Photo Contest: Historical Ruins in Guatemala. “The Shrouded Beauty” by David Dean Entry in the Revue Photo Contest: Historical Ruins in Guatemala. “Convento Capuchinas” by Andrea Tórtola

98 RealReal EstateEstate

Your Real Estate Team in Antigua Home, Business, Property Management, Carpentry, Gardening and Handyman Services. www.teamantigua.com Calle del Espíritu Santo #37A, La Antigua • Tels: 7832-7600 or 7832-7412 [email protected] • www.teamantigua.com

SOLUTIONS ANTIGUA Real Estate / Bienes Raices

3a. Calle Oriente # 15, Tels: 3120-8234, 4638-9411, 5285-6020 [email protected]

REAL ESTATE: FOR RENT REAL ESTATE: FOR RENT REAL ESTATE: FOR SALE ANTIGUA AREA ANTIGUA AREA ANTIGUA AREA LARGE HOUSE, ideal for doctor’s office, hotel’s exten- BEAUTIFUL APARTMENT Conveniently located in ac- Stunning unique view home w/ architectural pool sion, apartments or NGO. [email protected] cess controlled complex, 3 bdrm, large closets, 2½ on private gated drive. Sacrifice sale! email: Tosa@ Tels: 4119-9898, 4285-9510 bath, liv/din, liv/din, fully equipped, kit, hot water, tosagt.com or visit www.AntiguaHome4Sale.com washer & dryer ready. Cable, internet access & LAS GOLONDRINAS APARTMENTS: Antigua G., bed- other services inlc. Q4,200 furnished; Q3,400 un- CIUDAD VIEJA, Sacatepéquez rooms: cable TV, private bathrooms with hot show- furnished. Tels: 4127-2132, 3007-9259, 4216-8175, ers; apartments with complete kitchen, Wi-Fi. “Dif- Perfect home for growing family or NGO. The 7832-5390. ferent sizes-different prices.” Daniel Ramírez Ríos. compound has more than 1300 meters of land and Tels: 7832-3343, 5713-6429 aptslasgolondrinas@ BEAUTIFUL APARTMENTS: 2 bdrm, liv, din, laundry, ful- the home has over 600 sq meters of construction. 7 gmail.com www.lasgolondrinasapts.info ly-equipped kit, 2½ bath, cable TV, Wi-Fi, 24-hour bedrooms, 4.5 bath. Call for more details. Carstens security, cleaning service. 4 blocks from the park. Bienes Raices S.A. (502) 7832-7600, 7832-7412. Daily, weekly or monthly. arteceramico12@hotmail. REVUE’s Property com Tels: 7832-7141, 5096-6740. LAKE ATITLÁN House with 3 commercial locals. FOR RENT OR EUROPEAN INVESTORS are looking to acquire land/ Conversion Chart FOR SALE, Furnished/unfurnished. 5 bdrm w/pri- property in the Lake Atitlán area. Owners or agents vate bath, 3 parking spaces. 10 additional parking please call: 5598-5677. INVERSIONISTAS EUROPEOS spaces (optional). 5 additional bathroom. 500m2 buscan terrenos/casa en el área del Lago de Atit- of construction. Ideal for business or NGO. Main lán. Propietarios o agentes por favor contáctenos al 1 Caballería = 45.12 hectares 1 Manzana = 10,000 vr2 Street, Santa Lucía Milpas Altas. 10 mins. from teléfono: 5598-5677. 1 Caballería = 64 manzanas 1 Manzana = 6,988 mt2 La Antigua. [email protected] or BUSINESS PROPERTY: LAKE ATITLÁN 1 Manzana = 1.7 acres [email protected] 1 Hectare = 10,000 mt2 Lake Atitlan Lakeshore Hotel & Restuarant For 1 Hectare = 2.471 acres 1 mt2 = 10.764 ft2 GUATEMALA CITY Sale. Turnkey operation, successful business.18 1 Hectare = 1.43 manzanas 1 mt2 = 1.431 vr2 rooms, restaurant, over 4 acres. For details, see: Beautiful colonial style house. Zone 14, near http://www.viviun.com/AD-182953/ or call 4953- Las Americas Avenue. Four bedrooms, three cars 1 Acre = 43,560 ft2 1 Vara = 32.9 inches 1309. garage, guest house, garden, 24 hours security. 1 Acre = .4047 hectare 1 Yard = 36 inches (3ft) Phone 2337-3130 - 2368-3348. He is happiest, be he king or peasant, 1 Acre = 4047 mt2 1 Meter = 39.37 inches who finds peace in his home. 1 Acre = 5645.4 varas2 Note: the precise size of a vara depends on which source you use! —Johann Wolfgang von Goethe 99 advertiseradvertiser indexindex LODGING RESAURANTS / BARS SERVICES HEALTH SERVICES Antigua ANTIGUA GUATEMALA CITY GUATEMALA CITY Antigua Hotel Solutions ...... 75 Arrin Cuan ...... 9 Aero Post air freight service ...... 49 Day & Night Assisted Living ...... 42 Casa Rosales ...... 79 Amanecer Juice Bar ...... 62 Angel Fire Kennels ...... 50 Dr. Milton Solis Plastic Surgery ...... 43 El Mesón de María ...... 77 AntiguaDining.com ...... 64 Budget Rent-a-Car ...... 35 Hostal Primavera ...... 15 Bagel Barn ...... 68 Hertz ...... 109 Antigua Hostal San Nicolás ...... 74 Café Condesa ...... 63 Immigration Services ...... 95 Antigua’s Gym ...... 41 39 45 Hostel La Sin Ventura ...... 79 Café La Sin Ventura ...... 68 Transcargo ...... Ceiba Porta Hotel Spa ...... Hotel Aurora ...... 75 Union Church ...... 39 Centro Visual G & G ...... 45 Café Vintage ...... 38 Hotel Casa de las Fuentes ...... 79 Clínica Veterinaria El Arca ...... 50 Casa Escobar ...... 4 Hotel Dionisio Inn ...... 79 Antigua Dermatologist Dr. Samayoa ...... 41 Casa Troccoli ...... 65 Hotel El Carmen ...... 79 Antigua FM ...... 76 Dr. de la Cruz ...... 42 Cerro San Cristobal ...... 61 Hotel Eterna Primavera ...... 15 Frank Salon ...... 51 Farmacia Ivori ...... 45 64 Hotel San Rafael ...... 77 Chez Christophe ...... Fumigadora Antigua ...... 50 Gail Terzuola ...... 41 71 Hotel Panchoy ...... 75 Chocomuseo Café ...... Niños de Guatemala ...... 95 Gimnasio La Fabrica ...... 44 Cookies, Etc ...... 68 Renta Autos de Guatemala ...... 53 Hospital Privado Hermano Pedro ...... 43 guatemala city Crepas Francesas ...... 15 Valhalla Macadamia Farm ...... 50 House of Health Sta. Lucía ...... 43 Portal de Lara ...... 38 Doña Luisa Xicotencatl ...... 62 Maxillofacial Center ...... 44 Epicure ...... 59 SHOPS Oasis Antigua Spa ...... 42 LAKE ATITLÁN Fridas ...... 71 Guatemala City Optyma Esthetics ...... 41 Apart-Hotel Los Arboles ...... 86 Frutos del Mar ...... 68 Bernina (Sewing Center) ...... 39 Optyma Visión y Moda ...... 43 B’alam’ya ...... 83 La Biblioteca ...... 68 Capeiros Flower Shop ...... 39 Prana Holistic Center ...... 41 Hotel Dos Mundos (Pana) ...... 87 La Bicicleta de Juancho ...... 68 House & Green ...... inside cover Vet-Pro ...... 50 Hotel Real Santander ...... 86 La Casa del Ron ...... 67 Inola ...... 39 Jardines del Lago ...... 87 La Cenicienta ...... 64 Super Verduras ...... 37 REAL ESTATE La Casa Rosa ...... 86 La Cuevita de Urquizu ...... 64 Barrio de Antonelli ...... 99 Posada de Santiago (Santiago) ...... 85 La Estancia ...... 65 ANTIGUA Carstens S.A...... 99 49 99 TOSA La Laguna ...... 85 La Estrella ...... 64 Atelier Antigua ...... Solutions Antigua ...... Casa de los Gigantes ...... 49 Short Term Rentals ...... 2 La Fonda de la Calle Real ...... 69 PACIFIC COAST Casa Del Tejido ...... 29 Las Velas (Camino Real) ...... 73 Asociación Ola Verde ...... 91 Colibrí Textiles ...... 51 TRAVEL / TOURS Las Palmas ...... 13 Cafe Del Sol ...... 91 Ecofiltro ...... 11 Antigua Los Encuentros ...... 62 Casa Bella ...... 88 El Cafetalito ...... 7 Antigua Tours ...... 29 61 Cayman Suites ...... 89 Los Tres Tiempos ...... El Mástil ...... 3 Filadelfia Coffee Adventure ...... 2 57 Club Isleta de Gaia ...... 88 Mesón Panza Verde ...... Joyería del Angel ...... back cover Lax Travel ...... 81 Hawaian Paradise ...... 91 Ni Fu Ni Fa ...... 64 La Casa del Conde (books, etc) ...... 50 Maya Trails ...... 103 Hotel Dos Mundos ...... 89 O’tapas ...... 64 Orgánica ...... 46 Monja Blanca ...... 81 Hotel Honolulu ...... 91 Pitaya Juice Bar ...... 64 The North Face ...... 1 Tabarini Rent a Car ...... 53 Hotel Pez de Oro ...... 91 Rainbow Café ...... 59 Hotel Playa Plana ...... 88 Samsara ...... 64 CULTURAL MISC. Hotel Playa Saltamonte ...... 91 Señor Pepian ...... 68 Guatemala City Adrenalina Tours ...... 93 Villa Kairos ...... 91 Tacool ...... 5 El Attico ...... 29 La Reunion Golf Resort ...... 48 Tres Amores ...... 66 Museo Ixchel ...... 29 Seakist Yacht Sales ...... 94 El PetÉn Ubi’s Sushi ...... 68 Museo Popol Vuh ...... 29 Trans Galgos ...... 81 Hotel Ecológico y Rest. Mon ami ...... 81 Vivero y Café La Escalonia ...... 69 Transportes Turísticos Atitrans ...... 81 Welten ...... 61 Antigua RÍo Dulce Galería Museo Centro de Arte Popular ...29 SCHOOLS 31 31 Amatique Bay ...... 94 Guatemala CITY La Antigua Galería de Arte ...... Antigua International School ...... Hacienda Tijax ...... 94 Christian Spanish Academy ...... 47 Arrin Cuan ...... 13 Hotel Catamaran ...... 94 Lego Robótica Classes ...... 95 Caffé De Fiori ...... 38 El Establo ...... 37 QUETZALTENANGO Rattle & Hum ...... 36 Casa Doña Mercedes ...... 93 My mother said to me, ‘If you are a soldier, you will become 37 Hostal Las Orquideas ...... 93 Restaurante Altuna ...... a general. If you are a monk, you will become the Pope.’ Trovajazz ...... 38 Instead, I was a painter, and became Picasso. William Shakespeare Pub ...... 38 RESAURANTS / BARS —Pablo Picasso Quetzaltenango TECPÁN There was never a child so lovely but his mother was Shai Long ...... 93 Kape La Nonna ...... 92 glad to get him to sleep. —Ralph Waldo Emerson Giuseppe´s Gourmet Pizza ...... 93 Kape Paulinos ...... 92 Restaurante Chichoy ...... 4 Sometimes the strength of motherhood is greater lake atitlán than natural laws. —Barbara Kingsolver Café Moka ...... 86 Sweater, n.: garment worn by child when its mother is feeling chilly. —Ambrose Bierce EMERGENCY ASSISTANCE Police: 110 Fire: 122 and 123 Tourist Police (Antigua): 7832-4131 Fire Dept: 7832-0234 If evolution really works, how come mothers Guatemala City Tourist Assistance: 1500 (24-hour) only have two hands? —Milton Berle

100 Sensuous Guatemala by Ken Veronda

on David proudlyelaza presented us a jug of this season’s mela- throats. In the Guatemalan High- za. The good stuff inside doesn’t look like much, but it’s a lands, I’ve found native ladies doing Mrich treasure. You may know it as molasses, or more cor- the same, giving little ones the same rectly by the Americanism for this special type of molasses, treatment with melaza, the kids cry- Dblackstrap. Guatemalan indigenous and all cooks here treasure it as the ing lustily but swallowing it down. best melaza, dark, thick, bitter, perfect for lots of good cooking. “Blackstrap” in England, both the When sugar cane is ready for harvesting along Guatemalan coastal liquid and in the hardened candy littoral, the fields are often set on fire first, to burn out snakes that really form, is treacle. Pennsylvania Dutch enjoy living among the sweet stalks. You can smell the resulting sweet bake their famous shoofly pie with smoke far up into the mountainsides. Once the cane is cut and stripped melaza. Here, melaza enriches whole of leaves, the juice is crushed out and boiled for the syrup. grain breads, flavors cookies and pies, and forms a base for a carne First boiling gives cane syrup, with the highest sugar content. A second asada barbecue sauce. Some High- boiling gives a slightly bitter syrup. Boil it a third time, and it really gets land cooks use melaza instead of good. Most of the sucrose is gone, leaving what could almost be a pot of beer in their traditional “drunken hot asphalt, almost jet black, “thick enough to stand a spoon” as a Guate- chicken” dish. malan cook translated for me from her Mayan dialect. Good stuff! Want to try it in baking, cook- Blackstrap molasses, that third boiling, is rather bitter. ing, or simply on thin-sliced meat to But it’s full of B-vitamins and ever so many min- dry into a jerky? Old liquor bottles, erals, all in one spoonful, why Southern refilled with homemade melaza, are grandmas forced a teaspoon for sale cheap in the indigenous vil- of blackstrap down lage markets throughout Guatemala. the kids’ Wrapped up well in old newspaper to keep your luggage from being sticky, you might even take some home for your favorite baker.

101 “Time Portals” La Antigua by Tatiana Golovkina fb.com/tatiana.golovkina.fotografia/ 5 2