Do E-Tailors Measure Up? Procuring Custom Suits Online Was Gaining Steam Before the Pandemic, but Now It’S Even More Popular

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BY JACOB GALLAGHER

AST MONTH, Elliott Pen obtained a custom glen- plaid blazer from Yeossal, a tailor in Singapore. But Mr. Pen, a 35-year-old Lbusiness manager at a media company in Toronto, has never even been to Singapore. The entire transaction— from choosing his fabric to selecting his pocket shape—took place online. To nail the fit from across the globe, Mr. Pen tapped his “very patient” wife to measure and photograph “every possible angle” of his frame to mes- sage to Yeossal. The process took eight weeks and cost Mr. Pen just over $1,000—a good deal for custom tailoring. Mr. Pen worried until the last minute. “I opened the box with trepi- dation,” he said. But the results of his online experiment thoroughly pleased him and he busts it out for his more professional Zoom calls. We’reentering anew erawhen it comes to shopping forcustom clothes. Traditionally,buying amade-for-you suit wasveryhands-on: Aman visits his tailor,has adrink,chatsabout his daughter’s Little League career,pores over swatches and submitstoendless measurementsand fittings. But even beforeCovid-19 forbade such intimacy, that way of shopping felt outmoded. “That whole expectation that Ihad to literally go somewhereand shop wasa little daunting,” said AlexVillaseñor,35, the creativedirector foraChicagofilm company, who usually buyshis clothes online.Hecravedacustom suit forhis wedding so he virtually commissioned a handsome black one from Chicagotai- lor Nicholas Joseph. While the idea is nothing new, the pandemic has hastened the embraceof remoteeverything,including tailoring. No matterhow much youmight love your suit guy, the thought of spending hourstogether elbow-to-elbowscruti- nizing weightsofwool might seem off- putting.Prudent men arewarming to remotemethods,not only fortheir safety,but fortheir efficiency, the po- tential fordeals and the scope forcre- ativity. Mind you, custom digital tailoring is not yetafuturistic,Jetson-ian, instant process. Innovation has mainly focused on bringing adusty processonline, C

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As soon as his stay-at-home order lifted, arestlessNew Orleanian drove acrossthe Southwest in searchofluxurious solitude

BY MARK CHILDRESS Ineeded aroad trip.Couldn’t talk anyone intoriding shotgun, but who cares? Alone on NATUESDAY in mid-May, af- the road is no lonelier than alone at home, terNew Orleans relaxed its and the sceneryisbetter. Coming from acity pandemic rules enough to let that wasanearly hot spot, I’dbeen totally dentistsresume practice, I isolating myself,soIwas pretty sureIwasn’t went in formycheckup.When aspreader.The mayorliftedher stay-at- Othe masked-and-gowned technician brushed home order just in time to keep me from go- against my arm Irealized she wasthe first ing purecrazy. human being to touch me in eight weeks.For IflewtoSan Franciscoonanairplane full THE HOUSEDRESSCALLS SMALL-TOWNSOPHISTICATION some reason, this gavemeaterrible urge to of people with masks trying not to breathe. Howthe curious WFH dresscode has She inherited her Illinois grandmother’s getout of town. PleaseturntopageD7 revived an anachronism D3 chairs—and found they’re design icons D4 P2JW165000-4-D00200-1------XA

D2 | Saturday/Sunday, June 13 - 14, 2020 **** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. STYLE & FASHION

an online made-to-order program. While tai- Breezier Bespoke SMARTY PANTS lors who produce true—and expensive—be- Stephon Carson wears spoke suiting create a pattern reflecting a ContinuedfrompageD1 custom-made trousers client’s exact body shape, outfits like Spier & ditional Savile Row-style tailorsweredifficult tailored to his unique Mackay let customers tweak a standard-size to reach, some declining to establish anysort specifications—which suit pattern to more closely accommodate of webpresence; todaythey court remotecli- he scores for a song their forms. If you know you normally have ents. Most steps,including design consultation to get your jacket sleeves shortened an inch, and fabric selection, canhappen virtually,al- or have the pant length taken up a half-inch, though some traditionalistsstill insist on in- you can plug those modifications in. person measuring. Such online made-to-order programs also Video calls are definitely becoming many boast clickable style modifications,much like tailors’ trustiest tool. On the hunt for his the popular NikeByYou custom-sneaker cre- wedding suit, Mr. Villaseñor Zoomed with ator,but forbusinesswear.Jesse Burzminski, Jodi Leahy, a designer at Nicholas Joseph. 36,who works in sales foratelecommunica- For 40 minutes, Ms. Leahy presented suit tions companyinCalgary, recently ordered a styles and swatches, guiding Mr. Villaseñor’s refined blazer in astriking white-on-brown purchase. “I was able to see the actual tex- windowpane-patterned fabric via Spier &Mac- tures of the garments and how they would kay’sonline program forabout $483.Tweak- match,” he enthused. If you’re wondering ing aconventional design in simple ways, he who is ordering suits during a pandemic, the specified patch pockets, and requested extra answer in part is men like Mr. Villaseñor shirring wherethe sleevemeetsthe shoulder. with a big day on the horizon. Because Mr.Burzminski’ssizeisfairly stan- For him, the next step will be to go to the dard, he didn’t belabor the fit, focusing his en- Nicholas Joseph shop and get measured in ergy instead on getting creativewith the de- person. However, since Mr. Villaseñor’s tails. lengthy design consultation occurred over Custom tailoring via the internet doesn’t Zoom, everyone will be spared the need to stop at suits and sportcoats. Stephon Carson, spend a lot of time in a confined space. 29, the manager of a retail store in New York, While body-scanning technologythat lets buys personalized trousers from Yeossal’s tailorsmeasureaman even faster or remotely does exist, it’snot yetwidely adopted. Knot Standard, a10-year-old NewYork startup, swearsbyits sci-fi-ish system. Customers Video calls are definitely snap photos—from the front and from the becoming some tailors’ side—which the companyruns through an ar- trustiest tool. tificial intelligenceprogram to model aclient’s body shape.Over2000 people have used this technologyand the companysays that only around 16% of them have requested altera- website. “On off-the-rack pants, the fit at the tions.Alton Lane uses similar technology, al- current moment is very slim. I like some- though the scanning takesplaceinperson in thing that’s a little bit fuller in the leg,” he itsby-appointment showrooms in cities in- explained. He also takes advantage of Yeo- cluding Boston, Dallas and Nashville rather ssal’s many optional add-ons, tacking on an than via smartphone. exaggerated side-buttoned waistband and Some tailorsremain skeptical. “The tech- double pleats. The resulting trousers look nologyofdigital measuring has still not quite like something the members of the Rat Pack caught up to alot of clients’ expectations,” would have worn. And at just over $200, said BJ McCahill, vicepresident of Kashiyama, they’re a steal as custom pants go. Even if aJapanese suiting brand. Though Mr.McCa- the trousers had proven disappointing, the hill explored different scanning technologies, stakes are fairly low: Like most of these com- most developed by companies in Asia and Eu- panies, Yeossal will work with you to get a rope,hepassed on partnering with all of garment tailored in your hometown if it them, concluding they were insufficiently sen- doesn’t fit properly. sitivetoanindividual’sfit preferences.“One What makes thelow prices possible? Some person’sdefinition of aslim-fit suit might be of these brands use factoryproduction in lieu different from another person’sdefinition of of the moremeticulous—and costly—hand- that suit,” he explained. Though digital mea- work that goes intoatraditional bespokesuit. suring systems areable to take such prefer- That’sOKwith Mr.Burzminski. Spier &Mac- ences intoaccount, human tailorsstill do so kay, he said, “gavemeanopportunity to get

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THE CASE FOR HANDS-ON MEASUREMENTS / THREE TRADITIONAL TAILORS ON WHY DIGI-TAILORING DOESN’T WORK

“Having afirst fitting over “Gettingtoknowsomeone’s “Thereare so many variables the screenwouldn’t feel right style in person is important.I thatgointothe measurement without being able to make tell people to come to an ini- process, taking into account surethe product fits howI tial meeting wearing some- someone’s postureand shoul- want it to in person. We don’t thing thattheylike, and I’ll get der.Noalgorithm or method want to offerawatered- asense of the things that of taking your ownmeasure- down version of our actual theylike. Forexample,dothey ments will be as accurateas value proposition and the in- likealittle bit morefullnessin having atailor do it.Also,you teraction that people get in their chest, maybe theylike have fabric visuals online,but person is such an instrumen- their sleeves alittle shorter.I’ll youcan’t touch cloth. Ican tal part of that. When you pick up on if they’re wearing a takethe fabric bolt and drape

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THAT’S DEBATABLE

Will a Chain Necklace Make Yo u Irresistible?

HAVE YOUSEEN Connell in Hulu’s MEN’SCHAINS have connoted sta- YES steamy“Normal People”?Playedby NO tus among Catholic clergy,Euro- Paul Mescal, the saga’sleading man pean royalty and even ancient Celts, oftenappearssans clothes,but but in recent years, disparagers never without his simple,silver chain. Since point out, the links have acquired agauche im- the series debuted in April, Connell has be- ageonthe necks of Jersey Shorefist-pumpers come aviral sexsymbol thanks in part to his and sleazy tank-top wearers. Connell’s, in par- necklace—over 181,000 fervent fans followthe ticular,is“way tooshort,” said the stylist Mr. Instagram account @connellschain. Holmes,when questioned moreclosely.Worse, Connell’s clavicle-gracing chain isn’t the “[It] just feels awkward.” first to inspire breathy sighs. One dangled NewYork publicist Emily Schumann, 33,has across Timothée Chalamet’s been waging waragainst her waxen chest in the 2017 film boyfriend’schain sincethey “Call Me By Your Name,” and ! started dating.She once“acci- heartthrobs like Brad Pitt and FEEDBACK LOOP dentally” brokeitwith astrategi- Usher have worn slender ver- Necklace, $1,800, cally flailing hand. “I don’t love sions for years. Jason Scott davidyurman.com it,” she said, recalling exes who Henderson, a 34-year-old musi- wore theirswith Ed Hardy shirts cian from Queens, N.Y. who goes to nightclubs.When her boy- by Getoverher, said that, for decades, the friend wearshis tucked intoasweater,“it chain has been a “symbol of wealth and hav- doesn’t makesense,” she said. ing a sense for fashion” in the hip-hop com- Manychain wearersconsider sexappeal munity. Every day, he wears a custom gold beside the point. Elliot Tusk,a28-year-old necklace. “Women will ask to see it and im- audit manager in SanFrancisco, has worn his mediately reach out to touch it,” he said. StarofDavid chain “pretty much everyday” LeeTucker,senior vicepresident of mer- sincehis bar mitzvah. It never comes off— chandising at jeweler David Yurman, reports even when it risks killing the mood. Some- that “chains,likethe one Connell wears, are times when Mr.Tusk and his wifeare cud- our number-one category [in men’sjewelry].” dling,hesaid, “the chain will flop over and LosAngeles stylist Mark Holmes said the ideal hit her in the face.” But despitesuch decid- chain is one yousleep in, showerinand wear edly resistible awkwardness, she understands LU

HU under asuit without asecond thought. It’s whythe StarofDavid matters.“It’saway to THE STRONGEST LINK Connell (Paul Mescal) wears his signature chain during a pensive most seductive, he said, when “itjust becomes stay close to my heritage. She would never moment from Hulu’s hit tortured-relationship series ‘Normal People.’ part of you.” ask me to removeit.” —Todd Plummer