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Devon & Cornwall ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Devon & Cornwall Exmoor & North Devon p126 Exeter & East Devon Newquay & p42 the North Coast p193 Plymouth & Dartmoor Bodmin & p99 East Cornwall p150 Torquay & South South Devon Cornwall p64 p160 West Cornwall & the Isles of Scilly p219 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Oliver Berry, Belinda Dixon PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to EXETER & EXMOOR & Devon & Cornwall . 4 EAST DEVON . 42 NORTH DEVON . 126 Devon & Cornwall Map . .6 Exeter . 43 Exmoor National Park . 128 Devon & Cornwall’s East Devon . 54 Top 16 . .8 Topsham . 55 Dulverton. 130 Exford.&.Around. 132 Need to Know . .16 Exmouth .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..57 Dunster.&.Around . 132 If You Like… . .18 Sidmouth. 59 Beer.&.Around . 61 Porlock.&.Around. 134 Month by Month . .21 Lynton.&.Lynmouth. 137 North Devon . 138 Itineraries . 24 TORQUAY & Ilfracombe. 139 Outdoor Activities . 30 SOUTH DEVON . 64 Croyde,.Braunton.. Travel with Children . 36 Torquay . 65 &.Around. 141 Brixham. 73 Regions at a Glance . 38 Barnstaple.&.Around. 144 Teignmouth.&.Around. 75 Bideford,.Appledore.. South Devon . 77 &.Around. 145 Totnes.&.Around. 77 Westward.Ho!. 147 Dartmouth.&.Around. 83 Clovelly.. 147 ADAM BURTON / GETTY IMAGES © Start.Bay. 89 Hartland.Peninsula . 148 Kingsbridge.&.Around. 91 Salcombe.&.Around. 93 BODMIN & Hope.Cove. 96 EAST CORNWALL . 150 Thurlestone. 97 Bodmin . .151 Bantham . 97 Lanhydrock. 153 Bigbury-on-Sea. Bodmin Moor . 153 &.Burgh.Island. 98 Camelford.&.. the.Northern.Moor. 153 Central.&.. CLOVELLY P147 PLYMOUTH & DARTMOOR . 99 Eastern.Moor . 156 Liskeard.&. Plymouth . 100 the.Southern.Moor . 158 Dartmoor GUY EDWARDES / GETTY IMAGES © National Park . 110 SOUTH CORNWALL . 160. Tavistock.&.Around. 113 Princetown . 117. Falmouth, Truro & the Roseland . .161 Postbridge.&.Around. 118 Falmouth. 161 Widecombe-. Trebah,.Glendurgan.&. in-the-Moor. 119 the.Helford.River. 167 Ashburton. 120 Penryn. 168 Moretonhampstead. 120 Flushing.&.Mylor . 169 Chagford. 121 Restronguet.Creek.. Lydford. 123 &.Devoran. 169 TREEN & LOGAN ROCK P234 Okehampton. 125 Trelissick.Gardens. 169 Contents UNDERSTAND Truro. 170 WEST CORNWALL & Devon & Cornwall The.Roseland . 174 THE ISLES OF Today . 258 Southeast Cornwall . 180 SCILLY . 219 History . 260 Charlestown . 180 West Cornwall . 220 Food & Drink . 268 Mevagissey.&. St.Ives . .220 The Arts . 273 Gorran.Haven. 181 Gwithian.&.. Lost.Gardens.. Godrevy.Towans. .226 Environment . .277 of.Heligan . 182 Hayle . .226 Eden.Project. 182 The.Penwith.. Lostwithiel. 183 Peninsula. 227 SURVIVAL Fowey. 183 Penzance. 235 GUIDE Golant. 187 Newlyn. .240 Polperro. 187 Mousehole. 241 Directory A–Z . 282 Looe. 188 Marazion. 241 Transport . 288 The.Rame.Peninsula. 190 Perranuthnoe.to. Index . 296 Tamar.Valley. 191 Praa.Sands . .244 The Lizard . 245 Map Legend . 303 NEWQUAY & Helston. 245 THE NORTH COAST . .193 Trelowarren. .246 Porthleven.&.. Bude & the Atlantic the.Loe. .246 Highway . 195 Bude. 195 Gunwalloe. .246 Crackington.Haven . 196 Mullion. 247 Boscastle. 196 Lizard.Point.&.Around. 247 St.Juliot. 197 St.Keverne.&.Around. .248 Tintagel. 198 The.Helford. .249 Port.Isaac . 198 Isles of Scilly . 250 St.Mary’s. 251 Padstow & Around . 200 Rock.&.Polzeath. .200 Tresco. 253 Padstow. 201 Wadebridge. .206 Newquay & Around . 206 SPECIAL FEATURES Perranporth to Portreath . 213 28 29 e# 0 50 km Devon & Cornwall: Off the Beaten Track 0 20 miles MORTEHOE EXMOOR NATIONAL•# Barry Off the Beaten Track . 28 If you’ve always had a soft spot for PARK One Man & His Dog, head for the Exmoor’s newfound status as a ‘Dark PLAN YOUR TRIP DOZMARY POOL Bristol PLAN YOUR TRIP Exmoor village of Mortehoe, where Channel Sky Reserve’ makes this one of the Perranporth. 213 This windswept lake on Bodmin Moor you can learn to round up sheep southwest’s best places for is awash with legends: it’s rumoured under the guidance of a working Bridgwater star-spotting. (p128) Bay to be where King Arthur received Lundy shepherd.IlfracombeIlfra (p139)•# Excalibur from the Lady of the Lake. Island •# Minehead •# Watchet (p156) •# MORTEHOE #÷ Croyde •# Bridgwater EXMOOR •# OFF THE BEATEN TRACK NATIONAL PARK OFF THE BEATEN TRACK •# Barnstaple Barnstaple Bay Outdoor Activities . 30 •# Taunton Bideford St.Agnes.&.. •# ST NECTAN’S GLEN Take a bracing dip in this secret pool on the north Cornish coast, shaded by •# Tiverton trees and said to be frequented by Chard fairies. (p200) •# Chapel.Porth. 213 Bude #• •# Cullompton Widemouth Honiton Bay •# Axminster ATLANTIC OCEAN EXETER •# Okehampton •# LIVESTOCK#æ Travel with Children . 36 •# •# MARKET Exeter •# Lyme GOLITHA FALLS Seaton ST NECTAN'S #æ Range •# Regis Trek to a gorgeous wooded waterfall Launceston •# Danger Sidmouth GLEN Area Dartmoor near St Neot on the southern edge of National •# DOZMARY Park Porthtowan. 216 Bodmin Moor: perfect picnic territory. #÷ •# Exmouth POOL Bovey (p159) Wadebridge #æ Tavistock •# Tracey •# EXETER LIVESTOCK GOLITHA FALLS Ashburton •# •# Newton Abbot •# #æ MARKET Bodmin Buckfastleigh •# Torquay •# #• Soak up the sights (and smells) of an Newquay Liskeard ROCHE ROCK •# Tor #æ ROCHE Saltash Paignton •# authentic livestock market, held Food & Drink . 268 •# Plymouth Bay Discover a forgotten medieval chapel ROCK Brixham twice-weekly just outside Exeter. •# •# •# •# (p49) in the wilds of mid-Cornwall, •# Perranporth St Austell LANTIC & •# Plympton DITTISHAM •# Portreath. 216 supposedly once inhabited by a local Ù# Devonport Dartmouthh •# LANSALLOS hermit. (p182) #• Truro 4Start St Ives •# Redruth Bay MÊN- •# Land's AN-TOL •# English End ä# Hayle Channel •# •# Penzance Falmouth •# St Just- in-Penwith •# The Arts . 273 •# Mousehole Helston LANTIC & LANSALLOS DITTISHAM Tehidy.Woods. 216 The Lizard Leave the crowds far behind on these This pretty south Devon cove is well hard-to-reach beaches on the south worth a detour, with a great seaside MÊN-AN-TOL Cornish coast, or just explore the cafe and ferries to Agatha Christie's This weird hollow stone is said to have spectacular stretch of coast path. nearby house at Greenway. (p86) magical properties, but you need to (p189) crawl all the way through it to benefit. Camborne,.Redruth.&.. Environment . .277 (p230) the.Mining.World. Heritage.Site. 216 On the Road Exmoor & North Devon p126 Exeter & East Devon Newquay & p42 the North Coast p193 Plymouth & Dartmoor Bodmin & p99 East Cornwall p150 Torquay & South South Devon Cornwall p64 p160 West Cornwall & the Isles of Scilly p219 Devon & Cornwall ROAD DISTANCES (miles) Note: Distances Newquay 80 are approximate Penzance 108 31 Plymouth 43 49 77 St Ives 108 31 9 74 Torquay 21 80 108 31 105 Lundy Truro 86 12 27 55 24 86 Island y Exeter Newqua Penzance Plymouth St Ives Torquay AT LA NTIC OC EA N North Coast Find your own secret patch of sand (p193) Widemouth Bay Eden Project Bossiney Boscastle Experience the world’s #\ HavenÙ# biodiversity here (p182) Tintagel #\ Camelford #\ Port Polzeath #\ #\ Isaac Newquay Padstow #\ #\ Rock Catch a wave in Cornwall’s #\ surf central (p206) Wadebridge Bedrdrututhan #\ Bodmin Stepps Moor Newquay #] Eden #æ Project St Ives Perranporth #\ St Austell Fowey #\#\ #\ Delve into Cornwall’s artistic St Agnes #\ Charlestown St Austell heritage (p220) Lost Gardens#æ Bay Portreath #\ #\ Truro of Heligan St Ives #\ Mevagissey Bay #\ Redruth Trelissick St Ivess #\ #\ #æ Isles of Scilly Camborne Garden Gwithian &Godrevy #\ Hayle Penryn Relax on this remote Towans #\ Roseland archipelago (p250) Penwith Penzance Marazion Falmouth #\ Peninsula Peninsula #] #\ Falmouth Newlyn Helston #\ #\ #\ Bay Mousehole #\ Porthleven #\ Constantine #\ The Gunwalloe #\ Lizard St Keverne Isles of Land's #\ End Mullion Scilly Lost Gardens of Heligan #õ Discover one of Cornwall’s Lizard great garden estates (p182) Point St Michael’s Mount The Lizard Cross the causeway to an Get lost among glorious cliffs, island abbey (p244) coves and villages (p245) 4444 Severn Exmoor National Park Estuary Watch red deer on a wildlife Bristol Channel safari (p128) Clovelly Devon’s prettiest village? Quite possibly (p147) Lynmouth Bridgwater #\ Lynton #\ Porlock Bay Ilfracombe #\ #\ #÷ Exmoor #\Dunster National Park Croyde #\ Exford #\ Braunton #\ The Quantocks Barnstaple #] Barnstaple Bay #\ Appledore T Dulverton #\ Heartland #\ Bideford aw Peninsula #\ Clovelly #\ Bude T a Okehampton m #\ a r ^# Exeter #÷ Chagford Sidmouth #\ #\ Beer Lyme #\ #\ Bay 44 Dartmoor Branscombe National #\ Lydford #\ Park Moretonhampstead Exmouth #] Tamar Widecombe- #\ 44 Valley in-the-Moor Teignmouth Tavistock #] #\ #\ South West Coast Path #\ Start Princetown Ashburton Bay Amble through breathtaking coastal scenery (p31) #] Torquay #\ Liskeard #\ Tor Totnes Bay ^# #\ Brixham Exeter #\ Plymouth Climb the Gothic towers Looe #\ Dartmouth #\ of the cathedral (p44) Polperro Rame Bigbury- Peninsula on-Sea Kingsbridge #\ #\ #\ Bantham #\ Thurlestone Burgh #\ South Hams Island Hope #\ Salcombe Explore country houses Cove and fishing villages (p64) English ELEVATION Channel 500m 400m 300m 200m 100m 0 0 50 km e# 0 25 miles AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London, Oakland and Delhi, with
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