The Chemical Composition of Traditional Eye Cosmetics in Syria ANDREW D
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CONSUMER SAFETY Andrew D. Hardy The chemical composition of traditional eye cosmetics in Syria ANDREW D. HARDY1*, GAVYN ROLLINSON2, RAGINI VAISHNAV3 *Corresponding author 1. University of Exeter, Centre for Medical History, College of Humanities, Exeter, EX4 4RJ, Devon, United Kingdom 2. University of Exeter in Cornwall, Camborne School of Mines, College of Engineering Mathematics and Physical Sciences, Tremough Campus, Penryn, TR10 9EZ, Cornwall, United Kingdom 3. Sultan Qaboos University, College of Medicine, Box 35, Al-Khod, 123, Sultanate of Oman MATERIALS AND METHODS ABSTRACT: This study was undertaken in order to determine the chemical composition of potentially lead-toxic The main souk (Al Hamidiyeh, see Figure 1) in Damascus was traditional eye cosmetics (“kohls”) available in Syria visited several times and a total of 14 kohl samples purchased. (Damascus and Aleppo). A total of 18 kohl samples were A selection (4) of these samples are shown in Figure 2. A later, obtained: 14 in the main souk of Damascus and 4 in the old brief, visit to Aleppo’s old souk resulted in 3 such samples being souk of Aleppo. The techniques of X-ray powder diffraction purchased. Additionally, another kohl sample from Aleppo (XRPD) and low vacuum scanning electron microscopy souk (but purchased in c. 1976) was donated by a family (LVSEM) were used to analyse the samples. Overall, for the friend. These 18 samples are regarded as being representative 18 samples, it was found that 10 (56 percent) contained a of the kohl samples readily available in these two souks; lead compound (galena, PbS) as the main component; especially with regard to those made in Syria. Of the 18 with a further 5 samples having it present as a minor samples obtained overall, 13 were made in Syria and 8 were component. The other main components were found to be coloured (i.e. not black/grey-black/grey/silver-grey). The price one of the following: calcite (5) (CaCO3), sassolite (2) per kohl sample was usually between 0.5 and 1.5 US$, but (H3BO3) and goethite (1) (FeO(OH)). occasionally the price was higher and once as much as 6 US$. These 18 kohl samples were examined by the analytical techniques of x-ray powder diffraction (XRPD) and low INTRODUCTION vacuum scanning electron microscopy (LVSEM) (with the latter technique having an energy dispersive x-ray (EDX) As part of our continuing study of traditional eye cosmetics microanalyser attached). The latter technique was used to (kohls) we have looked at the chemical composition of such cosmetics available in Syria; with especial reference to determining those containing a lead compound. For useful background information on traditional eye cosmetics in general, and on our previously studied ones in particular, the reader is referred to our previous publications on the kohls of Egypt (1-3), Oman (4), the United Arab Emirates (UAE) (5, 6), Qatar and Yemen (7), and, most recently, Morocco (8). Some recent relevant mentions of traditional eye cosmetics in the published literature are the chemical (elemental) analyses of samples purchased in Saudi Arabia (9) and Boston (Massachusetts, USA) (10), and a study of their usage in Delhi (India) (11). To our current knowledge this study is the first to chemically analyse modern-day traditional eye cosmetics available in Syria. Traditional eyeliner (i.e. kohl) is used for a variety of reasons: to make the eyes beautiful (e.g. to make the eyes appear larger); as an eye medicine for a variety of complaints (actual and as a preventive); as a daily tradition from both cultural and religious backgrounds; and as a preventive for children against the “evil eye”/”the evil one” (i.e. making the child not look attractive). Thus, presented here, as part of our ongoing study into the presence of lead in traditional eye cosmetics (kohls) and as part of an ongoing education on the toxicity - especially for young growing children - of using such materials, is a chemical Figure 1. The main souk (Al Hamidiyeh) of Damascus (Syria). composition study of the kohls available in Syria. 24 Household and Personal Care TODAY - n 4/2010 CONSUMER SAFETY give quantitative elemental analysis for atomic number of 6 blue samples the colourant was a minor component of lazurite (i.e. carbon) and above; whilst the former technique was used (of formula Na8.16(Al6Si6O24)(SO4)1.14S0.86) in one sample to identify crystalline compounds present and to give (semi- and, in the other sample, an unknown (and again, probably quantitatively) their percentages. organic and of small amount) colourant. Only 5 of the 18 samples purchased were made outside Syria, with all five being made in Saudi Arabia. Figure 3. Distribution of the main element of the major component in the Syrian kohl samples. DISCUSSION Toxicology of lead As has been stated before by us in our previous publications (1-8), lead compounds are toxic by ingestion, inhalation and by skin exposure. Children are more susceptible than adults to lead intoxication. Adults absorb 5-15 percent of ingested Figure 2. A selection (4) of the kohls purchased in Damascus. lead while children can absorb as much as 41 percent of ingested lead. The toxic effects of lead form a continuum from clinical or overt effects to more subtle ones (12). The RESULTS critical effects in infants and children involve the nervous system. Blood lead levels (BLLs) once thought to be safe have For the 14 samples purchased in the main souk of Damascus it been shown to be associated with intelligence quotient was found that 9 had galena as the main component, with a deficits, behavioural disorders, slowed growth and impaired further 4 having it present as a minor component. For the four hearing (13, 14). Values in children, of their BLLs, that are samples purchased in Aleppo souk these numbers were 1 and greater than 10 µg/dl are now considered abnormal (15), 1 respectively. Five of the 10 (lead-based) samples were matt and recently it has been shown that significant intellectual in texture, and 3 of the remaining 5 samples are described (by impairment occurs in young children who have blood lead us) as only “slightly shiny”, with the levels below 10 µg/dl (16, 17). These remaining 2 samples being described as findings are of immediate concern for “shiny”. The meaning/importance of the Kohl highlights the eyes; those young children living in areas texture of a galena-based sample is but it can also lead- where significant kohl usage has been mentioned in the later Toxicology (sub) poison the body found (e.g. Delhi, India (11)). Also, very section. The colours of these 10 galena- recently, the composition (with regard based samples varied between black to their lead content) and usage of (6), grey-black (1), red-brown (1), green (1) and dark blue (1). Indian-made eye-liners (“Kajal”) available in Boston (USA) has Additionally, five samples had calcite (CaCO3) as the major been studied (10). This study showed that whilst the eye-liners component; with sassolite (H3BO3) and goethite (FeO(OH)) contained small amounts of lead (mean value: 7.6 ppm, and being the major components for 2 and 1 samples respectively a range of 1 to 41 ppm per sample, over 16 such samples), it of the remaining 3 samples (see Figure 3 for the distribution of was suggested by the paper’s authors that chronic exposure the main element of the major component in all the kohl to such samples may cause elevated BLLs in young children. samples studied). In a previous publication (1) we discussed galena’s (lead A total of 8 samples were coloured (i.e. not black/grey-black/ sulfide, PbS) particle size with respect to the associated kohl grey/silver-grey), and the nature of the colourant varied. For powder being ‘shiny’ or ‘matt’ in texture and with respect to the 4 green/dark green samples the colourant was an its rate of dissolution in gastric fluid. It was found by us that at unknown (and probably organic) minor component (though a mean particle size for galena of about 10 µm the kohl for one sample it could be an unidentified minor component powder (with galena as the major phase) became totally chromium compound); for the 2 red-brown/red-grey samples matt in texture. It had previously been found (18) that the red colour was given by one or more iron-based reducing the particle size of galena leads to a significant compounds(s) - that is goethite in one sample and hematite increase in its rate of dissolution in gastric fluid. Thus a matt and goethite in the other sample; and for the two blue/dark galena-based powder would be much more easily dissolved 26 Household and Personal Care TODAY - n 4/2010 CONSUMER SAFETY in gastric fluid than a “slightly shiny”/“shiny” powder; with the powder - “Kuhl Asmad”) and would probably arise from using latter perhaps going straight through the body with minimum the other sample (as it is a galena-based matt powder - absorption and negligible toxicity. Five such samples in this “Madani Al Ethmad”). study are described as “matt” and all were purchased in the main souk of Damascus. Their colours vary from green (1), to red-brown (1), to black (3) and all except one were made in COMPARISON WITH OTHER STUDIES Syria. This one exception sample was made in Saudi Arabia (Medina), was the most expensive kohl purchased (at 6 US$), Of the 18 kohl samples studied here overall it was found that 15 and the shop-keeper described it as “hot” (i.e. it could also (83 percent) contain a lead compound (galena, PbS), either as a be used as an eye medicine).