Roy Scheider (left), Blythe Danner (right), Noah Wyle, and the rest of the cast and crew of The Myth of Fingerprints stayed at the Bethel Inn last year during filming. Tales of the

Story By Gwen Thompson & Frank Bishop

f you need anything, just press zero painted on the walls by Heidi Gerquist." and call me, any time,' I said to our For breakfast, they chose from delights two new guests at the Pomegranate available to all guests at the inn, from Inn in Portland's West End historic "apple pancakes to poached eggs floren- district. tine, french toast with raspberries. She did "'Gkay, M·ISS Zero. ,,, tell me 'I'll be writing a new book,' so it's Nobel prizewinning author Toni Morri- really exciting to think that she was here son and her sister laughed as they checked with Paradise in her head." in. "She and her sister teased me and Published by Random House, Paradise called me 'Miss Zero' all that fall week- is zooming up the bestseller lists. Morri- end," says proprietress Isabelle Smiles, son is just one of a long list of distin- who has owned the inn since 1988. guished writers who have found respite "They obviously were having a good and, in some cases, inspiration in Maine. time together and enjoyed the second- From Mark Twain ('The coldest winter floor front room, the one with birds hand- I ever spent was a summer in Maine") to

8• PORItAND MONrnLY MAGA1JNE • APRn. Woody Allen (remember the lobster scene in Annie Halln, a neverending parade of celebrities, saints, and strangers has stayed in our hotels and inns and cre- ated a guest tradition that no other state's visitor industry could ever hope to match. Who else has been coming here? Read on!

Regency, Portland John F. Kennedy, Jr. is one of the most vehemently tracked celebrities in Ameri- can society, so it was quite a surprise when he showed up in the Old Port's premier hotel, the Regency, during the off-season without a reservation. He must have chos- en the Regency for the same reasons that Drew Bledsoe, Ron Brown, Kirstie Alley, Bruce Springsteen, and among many other prominent figures have since its opening in 1987. The brick structure that houses the Regency was built in 1895 as an armory for troops bound for the Spanish Ameri- can War. In World War II the building was utilized as an armory for the National Guard. In between it was a public bath house where for five cents one could get a clean towel, a hot shower, and a bar of soap. The armory was abandoned in 1962 and sold to the State Paper Company for IF YOU'RE DOING BUSINESS IN THE NORTHEAST, $28,000. It functioned as a paper ware- YOU NEED A COURIER SERVICE THAT house until 1984. Eric Cianchette, the UNDERSTANDS THE MEANING OF THE WORD owner of the Regency, built the owners of State Paper a warehouse on Presumpscot Street in addition to the price of the build- ing. The paper company had refused to sell the property without the construction When you have a disk, a report or even several cartons of the warehouse. -FB that need delivery today, call Elton John's Express Courier service. We've been doing just The Eastland Plaza, Portland that for over 50 years so you can bet we have it he Eastland Hotel, situated at the down to a science. And comer of High Street and Congress since our professional in downtown Portland, opened in drivers travel across 1927, culminating a grand and New England every day, expensive venture by owner Henry we can offer you our Rines. Rines set out to create accommo- shuttle delivery service dations that could rival the great hotels of for a fraction of what Boston and New York. In the early years you would expect to pay. the halls echoed with the steps of lum- Please call for a price sheet with the information you need to arrange your inaries from Charles Lindbergh (shortly next URGENTdelivery anywhere across the Northeast. after his famous flight), to Dorothy Lam- GilloH-. ShAHf our (The Road To Bali, The Road To 'EBB Nowaccepting. :E: C7#"x; Morocco, The Road To Singapore, and on and on). Radio commentator Graham McNamee dropped the keys to the front door of the hotel into Portland Harbor shortly after the grand opening in the summer of 1927 in a flight that is often (800) 31-ELTON • Westbrook, Maine • (207) 854-2206 erroneously credited by Portlanders to

10 • PORTIAND MONI1lLY MAGAZINE • APRIL Lindbergh, but either way symbolic of the grand hotel's pledge never to close its doors. In the present day the hotel has become the lodging of choice for visiting perform- ers and rock acts. Portland urban legend contends that deceased Nirvana guitarist and songwriter Kurt Cobain, who stayed at the Eastland during the finishing touch- es of Nirvana's breakthrough album Nev- ermind, tried on several pairs of shoes from the window bin at Len's Grocery. Cobain rival Billy Corgan and his Smashing Pumpkins cooled their heels here, as did Bob Dylan, who stayed at the Eastland shortly after his heart troubles a couple of years ago. Rather than room service, Bob had exercise equipment delivered to the room. B.B. King and his famous guitar Lucille stayed here as well as Cheap Trick, who were said to raise quite a ruckus in the Top of the East, the rooftop lounge, be- Where Can You Rekindle The Romance With fore being politely asked to return to their Luxurious antique-furnished rooms? Queen 4-poster canopy beds? quarters. Billy Joel stayed for two weeks a Delicious breakfasts? Working fireplaces? Warm hospitality? couple of years ago and Sara Mclaughlin, (~~L ,."L Ct' L d;tl' !f:!f the queen of the Lillith Fair, stayed here .~.. .I. Ite ap aln or lYl.anSIOn ¥ro~G

Captain Josiah A. Mitchell House, Freeport The namesake of this bed and breakfast was indirectly responsible for launching Mark Twain's literary career in 1866. As Twain recounts in "My Debut As a Liter-: ary Person," he was stationed in Honolulu as a correspondent for the Sacramento Daily Union when "fifteen lean and ghost- ly [shipwreck] survivors arrived there after a voyage of forty-three days in an open boat, through the blazing tropics, on ten days' rations of food." Though laid up in "- ~. '~--.': .•. bed himself, Twain knew the scoop of the Corne sail aboard the lSI' 4 masted schooner Margaret Todd for a spectacular 2 hour cruise Of ... century when he saw it, and had himself carried on a stretcher to the hospital 4 hour deep sea fishing trips or... where the survivors were being treated so 1/2 hour lighthouse & island cruises that he might spend the night interview- ing them and writing up his notes, thereby Sailing from the Bar Harbor Inn Pier getting the jump on his more dilatory col- leagues. A fortnight later, Twain sailed for Brochure: San Francisco with the survivors, and Capt. Steven Pagels r.Q. Box 8 made use of a tw

APRIL • PORfLAND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • 11 Twain remembers Captain Josiah A. Mitchell of Freeport "~ith reverent hon- or" and describes him as"a New England- er of the best seagoing stock of the old itepossiblyMaine's capable times." When Captain Mitchell's Qlargestsingle-ownershop, clipper-ship, the Hornet, caught fire, burned, and sank on May 3, 1866, it was offeringan outstanding selection one hundred-and-twenty days out from ofantiquefurniture,accessories port and thousands of miles from land. and art, respectfullyrestored Against all odds, this "bright, simple-heart- whenappropriate,wellorganized, ed, unassuming, plucky, and most com- wellpresented,and wellcared-for, panionable man" kept his crew-who 0Slr·- . '~F~# readyto enhancehomeor office. Visitusat 200 RouteOnein Scarborough,Maine,just south ofPortland, or on the Webat www.centervale.com

>- m ....J « ::l en :> before long were half-crazed and murder- Centenale Fann ous with thirst and hunger-from mutiny ANTIQUES 1-800-896-3443 or cannibalism and eked out their mea- ger provisions as long as possible with 10-5, SEVEN DAYS (CLOSED MONDAYS NOV. 1 THRU JUNE 30) • WE WELCOME THE TRADE shoe-leather and wood chips from the but- ter-cask. After reading all three diaries, Twain concluded that "those men did not survive by any merit of their own ...but by Cheverus High School the merit of the character and intelligence of the captain; they lived by the mastery Spring Downtown Luncheon of his spirit. Without him they would have been children without a nurse; they Friday May 8th, 1998 would have exhausted their provisions in a Portland Regency Hotel week, and their pluck would not have last- ed even as long as the provisions." Twain asked for, and received from the Guest Speaker: Sacramento paper, an unheard-of hun- Tom McBrierty dred dollars per column for his gripping Maine Commissioner of Economic account of the disaster. Both Twain's orig- inal newspaper story and his later retro- & Community Development spective, as well as all three of the survivors' diaries, have been published in Registration & Coffee Begin at 11:30 a.m. Longboat to Hawaii by Alexander C. Luncheon & Presentation Will Follow Brown. This book - together with original paintings and daguerreotypes of Captain Mitchell himself and other Hornet mem- orabilia - is available for interested guests to peruse at the Captain Mitchell House, which is now owned and operated as a bed and breakfast by Alan and Loretta Bradley and their son, Dr. David Bradley. The circa 1789 building still retains For Reservations Contact: many original fixtures, such as a brick fire- Cheverus Development Office at (207)774-6238 place and beamed ceiling in the kitchen and crystal chandeliers in the front hall $20 per person and dining room. The floors are covered

12 • POKIUND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • APRIL with oriental rugs amassed by David Bradley while working for the government in Saudi Arabia, Iran, Iraq, and Mghan- istan; and the walls display an eclectic col- lection of paintings by Loretta Bradley and other contemporary artists. Guests in need of deep relaxation can take advan- tage of the hot tub, the herb and flower gardens, or the neuromuscular treat- ments, cranial sacratherapy, and stress Business llip or Vacation- management workshops offered by Dr. Bradley. (If you don't like to get that We Can Help with Affordable Lodging relaxed, he also runs workshops on stock options.) • New, Clean, Comfortable Rooms During their twenty-year tenure, the • All New Suites with Full Kitchenettes Bradleys have witnessed the transforma- tion of Freeport from a one-store town • Near Health Clubs, Movie Theatres, into the shopping mecca of the universe. Restaurants & Shopping "When the Ralph Lauren outlet first opened, he and his group checked in here • Quiet Location with all their limos," David Bradley recalls. "Lily Tomlin, Billie Jean King, and Robert Forbes have stayed here too. Genie Boone 209 Route 1 Robert was my college roommate at u.s. Chapel Hill. We've also had these people Innkeeper Falmouth ME who won't say who they are-I think they're CIA agents. We used to try to offer more entertainment for our guests, but all (207) 781-2120 • (800) 499-2120 • FAX (207) 781·8286 they ever did was check in at three, go shopping until midnight, get up at six to shop till noon, and then leave. When U2 stayed here, they went shopping at 2 a.m. Located at Seawall Overlooking the Ocean to avoid being recognized by tourists." In addition to never-say-die shoppers, Seawall the Mitchell House is also haunted by the ghosts of the Captain and his wife. In Motel 1975 the Rhine Parapsychology Lab at and Duke University sent up a team of researchers to analyze the appearance of Dining Room a woman's face at a window during the Electric heat, TV in every room • Dining room open daily full moon. 'They brought all this magnet- • For overnight, weekends, or vacations, try us. ic measuring equipment with them," says Annabelle Robbins Rt. 102A 207-244-3020 or 9250 Bradley. "People were lined up in the Seawall Road, Manset, Maine 04656 1-800-248-9250 street outside to watch." The result of their investigations? Check in and find out for yourself!-GT A Collection Isaac Randall House, Freeport of Handmade he 1823 Federal-style farmhouse Garden and that was reputedly a stop on the Adirondack Underground Railroad is only the Furniture · E.:~ tip of the iceberg. This six-acre, Chairs • Benches JACK B. SABON wooded property complete with Tables • Beds Athabascan Artist spring-fed pond-situated within easy Etc. Native American Art walking distance of downtown Freeport!- Scott Masi By appointment: (207) 761-0599 also sports the most eclectic amalgama- 37 Birch Hill Road tion of outbuildings you're likely to en- York, ME 03909 counter anywhere. The bam, for instance, 207-363-0993 • ..;..-~:~._·'_i__ Y used to be a dance hall with a wild reputa- Call or write for a brochure tion, thanks to its convenient location right or more information.

APRIL • POKfLAND MONrnLY MAGAZINE • 13 on the trolley line that ran between Port- land and Brunswick during Prohibition. "Lots of leftover bottles still turn up every spring," says current proprietor Jim Friedlander. "As the ground freezes and thaws, they float up to the surface." Then there's the summer room made out of a train caboose. "I saw five caboos- es for sale in Illinois while 1was driving back from the West Coast," explains Fried- lander, who is a staunch railroad advocate and a member of Train Riders Northeast. "I'd already looked for one around Maine, but 1couldn't find any, so 1had it taken off the track with a crane and put on a flatbed MAINI::'S MAJI::STIC LANDMARK 1I0TI::l .:- UNSURPASSI::D OCI::AN VII::WS truck to get it here. It cost me $3,500." By this time it's not so surprising that Best Sunday Brunch in Maine! .;.Friday Night Lobster Buffet.;. Saturday Dinner Dancing Friedlander himself lives in the basement Heated Saltwater Pool <. Gorgeous Manicured Organic Gardens of the former Freeport police station. Meetings, Banquets, Weddings, Special Occasions "When the town built the new public Award-winning Environmentally Responsible Hotel safety building, they decided to get rid of proud Member of Maine Businesses for Social Responsibility the old station, which had previously been a house. They were only moving it a quar- OCI::AN AVI::NUI:: .:. KI::NNI::RUNKPORT, MAINI:: ter-mile down the street, but they had to cut it in half to fit under L. L Bean's fiber- (207) 967- 3331 optic phone line on two flatbed trucks. E-mail: [email protected] Then we had it raised high enough to build a cellar underneath, and that's Web: www.thecolonyhotel.com/maine/ where we live."

• Spectacular Views A Unique New • Miles of Sandy Beaches • Fine Dining England Tradition • Conference Facilities Is Alive In Your • Indoor/Outdoor Pools • Health Club Own Private Maine. • PGA Golf • Sailing • Tennis • Minutes to Portland

510 BLACK POINT ROAD PROUTS NECK, MAINE 04074 (800) 258-0003 • (207) 883-4126

14 • POKfLAND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • APRIL Lessthan an hour from Portland waits A DIFFERENT WORLD Over 600 acres of tranquil beauty-landscaped grounds and gardens, unspoiled wooded trails, and Casco Bayfrontage. Choose inn or cottage lodgings, all newly renovated for 1998. And so much to do! Here's just a sample- t Harborside golf...tennis ...saltwater pool t Boat rentals ...fishing ...scenic cruises t Lobsterbakes, pancake breakfasts t Children's programs ...evening entertainment In addition to operating as a bed & t Explore Popham Beach historic sites, Maine Maritime Museum breakfast, the Isaac Randall House caters t An ideal "basecamp" for Freeport shopping, L.L.Bean conferences and business meetings of up Romantic getaways in the Lighthouse, B&B,Family and Golf packages. to twenty people, and makes a handy We host weddings and conferences up to 250 people. stopover for 1. 1. Bean vendors (Bean's For information please call 1-800-225-3819 offices are right across the street), outlet shoppers, and the visiting parents of col- SEBASCO ESTATES,MAINE 04565-0075 • EARLY MAY TO LATE OCTOBER lege kids and summer campers. It has even served as a weekend sanctuary from irate baseball fans for Red Sox first base- man Bill Buckner. The winter after his BRAY'S BREWPUB f:/ EATERY infamous fielding error lost the Red Sox the 1986 World Series to the Mets, Buck- The Sebago Lake Region's First Brewpub ner found it impossible to show his face in "Real Beer, Real Food, Real People" Boston, and fled to Freeport. "I asked him whylhey didn't pull him from the game," recalls Friedlander, "because I could see Serving Maine's Freshest that he was still in serious pain from his Craft-Brewed Ales: hip injury even while he was here. They w~ Old Church Pale Ale, wanted to replace him, but he insisted on Brandy Pond Blonde, staying in to see the game out. It's too bad, Pleasant Mt. Porter, and because it wasn't a mental error-he was o Special Seasonal Brews just too crippled to deal with that ground ball. Eventually the razzing he took got so bad that it drove him away from Andover, Come In and Enjoy Our BRAY'S Massachusetts, to a ranch out in Idaho." Hearty New England Didn't discussing all this make for rather Lunches, Dinners, and awkward conversation? "No, he was OK Pubfare in a Turn of the ~ about it," Friedlander says,"and at least he Century Victorian Farmhouse didn't have any trouble with people recog- nizing him here. Besides, I was rooting for O~~ the Mets-only of course they didn't win Brewery Tours Available so much as the Sox lost!" -GT At the Light at the Junction of Rte 302 and Rte 35, Naples, ME Tides Inn By-The-sea, Open Daily 11:30 AM-I0:00 PM (207) 693-6806 Kennebunkport The trick here is finding the place. (All Major Credit Cards Accepted) Goose Rocks Beach, a secluded three-

APRll.. • POKItAND MONTHLY MAGAlJNE • 15 mile strip of sand, does not appear on NORUMBEGA many maps, and the summer residents- Maine's Victorian Castle By The Sea who are very protective of the oceanfront properties that have been passed down to them for generations-emulate the denizens of Cape Cod by removing road signs to prevent discovery by outsiders. Not only is the Tides the only inn on Goose Rocks Beach, it is also one of only a few buildings there to have survived the great fire of 1947 that drove the wild ani- mals out of the woods and into the ocean as it swept out across the jetty and torched Timber Island, burning to the ground the Goose Rocks casino and bowling alley and everything else in its path-until it came up against the formidable woman living next door to the Tides, whose house still stands. Legend has it that she refused This spectacular stone and brick structure on the Penobscot Bay in Camden, has again to leave when the powers that be tried to beautified the winter months with its gracious splendor. BuJt in 1886, Norumbega offers evacuate her, and remained stubbornly the ambiance of a bygone era, with its gracious common rooms boasting, rich oak.paneling, carved mantels, working fireplaces and panoramic ocean views. The exceptionally well appointed standing on the beach with her anns rooms and elegant suites exude luxury and comfort matching the castle's regal character. crossed, staring down the presumptuous A sumptuous country breakfast and an evening wine and cheese reception are included. blaze. "The Flames Will Not Come Corporate Retreats • Murder Mystery "Weekends. "Weddings. House Parties Here!" she declared-and 10 and behold~ Gift Certificates for all Occasions the wind shifted, and the Tides was spared. for reservations call 207-236-4646 The Tides owes both its original exis- 61 High Street, Camden, Maine 04843 • www.acadia.net/norumbeg tence and its miraculous preservation to women of unusual detennination. The building was commissioned from Port- land architect John Calvin Stevens by Emma Foss of Biddeford in 1899. Al- MAKE YOUR SKI VACATION MEMORABLE though Foss was married, there is no record of her husband, which was very THE $99 MAINE STAY unusual for the time. As is typical of A special gift just for Maine residents. Stevens' creations, the inn's design empha- sizes bay windows, gambrel rooflines, stair- After alI- don't you deserve it? cases, and ornate fireplaces-in particular a huge, eight-by-fifteen beach stone fire- $99 per couple - no hidden costs - it's just $99 per couple. place that dominates the front lobby. Early guests of note included Theodore Roosevelt and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Special $99 MAINE STAY package includes: whose visits are memorialized in trompe- . l'oeil wall murals painted by itinerant • Best available room upon check-in. artists from Freedom, Maine. The former charges up San Juan Hill in the stairwell, • 25 Bethel Inn Resort Dollars. and the latter-fitted out like his own detective with meerschaum pipe and • Continental Breakfast for two. deerstalker hat - has frightened many a guest curious enough to ignore the "Do ~ • Unlimited use of all resort facilities Not Disturb" sign on the door to his clos- including 92 degree outdoor heated pool GBe~kJnl\, et. & 40 km of cross country skiing trails. CourUTyelub Despite the auspicious beginning of her enterprise, Foss was eventually forced to Maine • Just 9 minutes from Sunday River. sell the inn to her desk clerk, who re- Call us today - we're moved the fourth floor and its trademark Special Rate any day during April waiting for you. gambrel roofline in order to avoid Sunday through Thursday in May (800) 654-0125 installing the mandated sprinkler system for any building over three stories. This ------#2 Resort in the East - Conde Nast Traveler ------'

16 • POKItAND MON11D..Y MAGAZINE • APRIL architectural desecration saddled the cur- rent owners-the mother-daughter team of Marie Henriksen and Kristin Blom- berg-with a flat roof in the winter. "We Yes! could've killed him!" Kristin says with feeling, and goes on to describe how !'d like to subscribe! Emma Foss'sghost-who has been known to set off fire alarms and tuck guests into Enclosed is my check bed at night-seems on the whole to be for$25 for a year of pleased with the changes Marie and Kristin have made. "I think she likes us, Portland Magazine. because we're the first female owners MyName _ since herself. She has a real problem with mean men." Street No doubt Foss's ghost also approves of City,State.ZIp _ the Tides' female chef, Pam White, who "Portland is makes everything from scratch with fresh local ingredients, luring a local clientele no longer asleep; to the dining room all summer long. Like- the arts begin to wise many guests from away return year '-" after year to sip cocktails on the front be encouraged as porch, seated in wicker rocking chairs they should be." overlooking the ocean. The peaceful absence of telephones and 1V s in the bedrooms also attracts the odd celebrity in John Neal need of an escape. Portland Magazine Blomberg remembers the day the script for the movie Scandal arrived for the Eng- July 1, 1835 lish actor John Hurt (The Elephant Man, 1984) from his agent. "He read through it out on the second-floor front porch, to decide whether or not to take the part." (He took it, and later described the Tides ashis favorite place in America.) "And one time this guy with a ponytail and purple 207-967-8464 glassesstayed here with his family. Grow- ing up in Maine, you know, 1thought he 3 Dock Square, Kennebunkport was;I little odd. He turned out to be Ged- A Handcrafted Collection in a Gallery Envrronment dy Lee, the lead singer of Rush."-GT featuring Leather Purses • Wallets • Travel Kits • Jewelry in Brass Marginal Way House, Ogunquit Sterling • Marcasite • Pottery by Chris Peck Andersons Stoneware Birds and Animals • Blown Glass from Cape Cod t is a little known fact that Marginal Anne Kilham Note Cards and Calendars Way was built upon a pathway Open 7 Days Through December formed by the herding of cattle to pasture. The ocean side pedestrian promenade now funnels hordes of tourists from the Shore Road along the spectacular ocean viewsof Ogunquit. The way's namesake· inn, the Marginal Way \ }CJloothbaYopen Weekends House, has hosted American and Canadi- ~ __rr:;-:lj c-D _I May 23-June7 an cultural icons as eclectic as the town of Ogunquit itself for the last century. .ftal .aY;un~:~~~:~:r 11. The owners of the Marginal Way House, Brenda and Ed Blake, cannot say CVlllage for certain how long ago the four story main guest house was built. They do Visit a Histo);c Re

APRIL • PORTLAND MONIlfLY MAGAZINE • 17 more modem, but maintaining the throw- back feel of the inn. An Open Invitati The seldom disturbed attic of the main house is lined from end to end with MGM movie posters of the forties and fifties, including Gone With The Wind (1939). There is a good reason for this. Apparently"Mr. Fergussen," a Hollywood mogul of the time, owned the Marginal Way House and hosted many of his stu- dio's top stars. Clark Gable is said to have stayed in the Wharf House, and apart- ment three of the main house still con- tains a signed photograph left behind by Vivian Leigh, who won best actress awards for Gone With The Wind and A You are cordially invited to view an extraordinary (207) 351-2912 StreetcarNamed Desire. home by Kuhns Bros. Log Homes. It has been care- The Blakes have run the Marginal Way Robert & Debora Manzi fully designed and individually crafted for people Authorized Representatives House since the late 1960s and have who want that very special place to call their own. P.O. Box 787 adorned their lobby with photographs of Kuhns Bros. is your best log home value offering 93 Foresters Circuit the notables who have stayed there. Actors Cape Neddick, ME 03902 unsurpassed service and support plus a host of life- and actresses from the Ogunquit Play- time benefits such as: house have frequented the inn as well as N arne-brand Components perennial visitors such as Michael Ont- Kiln dried Logs & Beams kean of "Twin Peaks" fame. Others who "No-shop Guarantee" grace the wall: Ruth Warrick of Citizen Free Construction Workshop Kane (better known as Phoebe Tyler to daytime soap fanatics), Conrad Bain LOG HOMES INCORPORATED (Gary Coleman's father on "Different Strokes"), sculptor Nathaniel Kaz, femin- ist writer Mary Daly, director Penny Mar- shall (The Preacher'sWife, Big, A League Of Their Own) and Lise Payette, who, ac- Keep Your Company's cording to Brenda Blake, is "Canada's an- swer to Johnny Carson and a leader of the separatist movement in Canada." -FB •••••••••••••• IIIIIIt:::.J~ Skills Asticou Inn, Northeast Harbor Sharp With Technical Training t would be hard to top the Asticou Inn's magnificent perch at the very and Cer"ficate Programs. head bf Northeast Harbor, within walking distance of Acadia Nation- Attract and Retain IT Staff • Use Technology to Gain or al Park. Not only is summering on Mount Desert Island the way life should Maintain Your Company's Competnive Edge • Start a New Career be, it's also the way life always has been. Technical Training and Certificate Programs from . When French mapmaker Samuel de UNE's Center for Business Information Technologies Champlain led French settlers to the Northeast Harbor area in 1613, he found Certificate Programs Sample Courses Network Engineer - Windows NT PowerBuilder Programming I a Penobscot Indian chief named Asticou Network Engineer - NovelllntranetWare Designing a Database in Oracle ~ summering there - probably in order to Client Server Developer Visual Basic Programming escape the black flies that made life a mis- Internet Application Developer Java Programming ~ ery inland. UNIX System Administrator MS Win NT Core Technologies Computer Support Analyst - Help Desk Internet Security Concierge Guy Toole, who has worked Webmaster - Website Administrator and much more ... at the Asticou Inn for 44 of its 115 years as potwasher, kitchen helper, busboy, dish- For registration and information, call washer, bellhop, and head of purchasing, University of New England's Office .pC of Continuing Education at 797-7688, enthusiastically describes recent additions ext. 4406. On-site training available. UNIVERSITY of NEW ENGLAND and improvements: a propane-heated Convenient location, day & evening classes. Westbrook College Campus freshwater swimming pool, all-new kit- Classes start in May, 1998. Portland, Maine www.une.edu chen facilities, clay tennis courts. But he is

18 • POIm.AND MONfHLY MAGAZINE • APRIL quick to point out that not changing things too much is also a top priority. '1'ou AWNINGS ~ TENT RENTALS won't find a 1V in every room here. -Commercial a ~.'~-Wedding Receptions There's only one in the whole inn. We're -Residential --nr -Corporate Events -Backlit .l ~ tf un . 'Tent Sales not owned by the Sheraton people, it's not -Deck Treatments ~ 'Lawn Parties a Holiday Inn-God forbid!-and it's not -Roller Awnings 'Sporting Events a Hyatt." Maine Bay Canvas In fact, the Asticou is rather unusual in that it is owned and run by the Asti-Kim 878-8888 53 Industrial Way 1-800-287-8887 FREE QUOTES Portland PROMPT FRIENDLY SERVICE ~ Corporation, a group of wealthy summer residents dedicated to preserving the inn's historic ambience. Why do people who already possess palatial summer cottages in the same neighborhood care so deeply about the fate of the local hotel? "Because Thursday is the staffs night off at all the Discover Your Maritime Past summer estates," Toole explains, "which Come explore our unique 19th-century seafaring village * Experience means there's no one to cook their meals. life when tall ships sailed the globe * Take in the sea air of Penobscot Bay * It's been that way ever since the 1920s, so Surround yourself with art and artifacts brought back from foreign ports and every Thursday night we host a lobster crafted by sailors at sea * Special exhibitions and hands-on activities for buffet with live music for dancing. North- children * Maritime and genealogical research library * Museum Store east Harbor has a swimming club and a Cruise our web site-http://www.acadia.net/pmmuseum country club and a tennis club, but they don't have any lodge facilities, so the sum- Penobscot Marine Museum mer people get together at the Asticou." Located on Church Street just off US Route 1 Searsport, Maine "* 207 548 2529 However, Toole acknowledges that even Open Memorial Day Weekend through October 15 in Northeast Harbor people don't live Monday-Saturday 10 to 5 "* Sunday 12 to 5 quite so e,ctravagantly as they did in the good old days. "Mrs. Brooke Astor has a house here with a staff of seventeen or twenty people," he estimates, "but that's one of the largest staffs left. She's one of the last 'grande dames.'" Nevertheless, once it was determined that the Asticou needed a swimming pool, one of the Asti- Kim directors volunteered to pay half the cost if his colleagues would put up the rest-which they did. Similarly, the cele- brated Asticou Azalea Garden -located just across the road from the inn and boasting sixty varieties of azaleas, rhodo- dendrons, and heathers collected by not- ed landscape architect Beatrix Farrand in the early part of this century - owes the continued maintenance of its splendors to the largesse ofJohn D. Rockefeller, Jr. Although Toole loved working in the kitchen as a teenager ("except for shelling peas"), he now finds more inner satisfac- tion in working directly with the guests six- ty hours a week in the lobby. "Some • Photo Restoration ContactJoe Muir at people just want to do nothing but sit on the deck and read and sip cocktails. They • Camera Copies- 773-3376 of photos & artwork become couch potatoes. But the people 500 Forest Avenue (B&Wor Color) from California have a whole different Portland 04101 way of life, very fast-paced. They don't sit • Fine Printing & BLACK & WHII. around. If you see ladies out on the front Film Processing porch of the hotel smoking cigars, you • Exhibit Printing & know they're from the West Coast. And I Consulting IMlA61 really marvel at the British. They don't

APRIL • POR1tAND MONfHLY MAGAZINE • 19 care whether it rains, they just get out there and make use of Mother Nahue. GET ON TOP OF "I really liked one fellow from Califor- YOUR GOLF GAME! nia, the screenwriter Jeffrey Abrams (Six GRAND SUMMIT GOLF & STAY PACKAGES Degrees of Separation, Regarding Henry, Forever Young). He ended up marrying Katie McGrath, one of our waitresses. But $ 9495 PPDO most of our celebrity guests have to regis- II1II ter under aliases, because people come IUN E27. 19l)~- Cl osr and ask, 'Who's famous here this year?' $13695 PPDO Billy Joel stayed here for ten days while he PACKAGES INCLUDE: GREENS FEES, SuMMif was having a boat custom-built in South- GOLF CARL. RANGf~ & LODGING. SOMEREStKIcrIONSMAY APPLY. IlESOIlT HOTEL· CONFEIlENCE CENTEIl west Harbor. was preg- FOR RESERVATIONS: SUGARLOAF/USA·MAINE nant at the time, so she didn't get around 1-800-527-9879 \odging@sugar\oat.com' wwwsugarlolbolelCOOl much, but he was out every day, check- ing on his boat. He was reallow-mainte- nance, except he really hated having to wear a jacket in the dining room. ~,.eM~ "But I don't mind going out of my way ~ ~~ to accommodate the people who want -SALOON- coffee at 6:30, because they're always so appreciative-and I don't mean apprecia- HEARTY tive with a dollar bill. Theire just so FARE IN A appreciative of the natural beauty of Mount Desert Island."-GT RUSTIC SETTING

Moorings Inn, Southwest Harbor he 200-year-old house that is now LUNCH 6 DINNER Described as a "timeless the Moorings Inn was in the nine- treasure" and a place of teenth century known as the resi- Enjoy our Happy Hour "true tranguility" dence of "the Prussian Lady" and 6 Weekly Entertainment her second husband, Andrew Twenty five hillside acres, with a Haines. This remarkable woman-whose Over looks the spectacular waterfront, offering a story is recounted in God's Pocket by variety of comfortable accomodation. Rachel Field - was born Dorethea Al- Historic Old Port A healthy buffet breakfast, tennis, bertina Wilhelmina Celeste Russ in Char- bikes and boats included. Sailing, from our lottenburg, a suburb of Berlin, but had her waterskiing plus, an 18 hole public "Wall of Windows" golf course available. Fine casual name summarily changed to Hannah public dinning. One hour from Caroline by her first husband, Samuel 11:30 AM-l AM DAILY Portland. A fantastic setting for Hadlock of Great Cranberry Island, who weddings and group events. could not master such a mouthful. Had- Open June 5 - Labor Day lock, an island-bred whaler and seal- 46 Market Street. Portland. ME Sept.group events only. hunter, possessed an insatiable wan- derlust, which, after his first wife's death, 207-774-5246 RR3, Box 1067 - Bridgton, ME 04009 . impelled him to leave his three children 207-647-2522 FAX 647- 12 behind in his sister's care and set sail for Europe, with an Eskimo couple in tow to BLUE HILL FARM exhibit as his meal ticket. ::::country Inn:::: He toured Ireland and England, and in .INTLIFF'S Germany fell in love at first sight with the Enjoy the tranquility of N daughter of Ludwig Russ, the magistrate our Maine farmhouse, A@;;f;t I.•• pond, and woods, as well from whom he obtained his license to as the offerings of many exhibit. Never one to let the grass grow nearby coastal villages. Unique Daily Brunch beneath his feet, Hadlock had, by the end of the day they met, found an interpreter ~ Private baths available DI!"NER FRI & SAT 5: h1-9:0(\ ~ Generous homemade to present his formal proposal of marriage. Continental breakfast included Open 7am-2pm • 7 days a week Naturally the Russ family was opposed to ~ Open year round "Mr. Bintliff is Back" the match: they had no intention of relin- Marcia and Jim SChatz,Innkeepers quishing their beloved daughter to an P.O. Box 437, Rt. 15, Blue Hill, ME 04614 98 Portland Street • 774,0005 (207) 374-5126 (Across from the Post Office) unknown American showman. But Had-

20 • POR1U\ND MONrnLY MAGAZINE • APRIL lock succeeded in overcoming each objection, even going so far as to purchase CANADIAN a house, and a coach and pair, when Lud- TANSU LOG HOMES wig Russ insisted that his daughter could . . ~_. - ','''''''- only marry an established householder. After their wedding, Hadlock continued ..-bT~ touring with his bride, receiving a gold .q t snuffbox from King Frederick Augustus of .~>,,~ i Saxony and exhibiting his Eskimos before '-. King Joseph Maximilian IV of Bavaria ,, . ;I ~ and Queen Caroline Maria Therese in '-- "', the garden of their summer palace, and for King William I ofWiirttemberg in the recruiting saloon of his palace. But Had- "PROVEN" SOLID-TIMBER lock's rising tide of success was soon BUI LDING SYSTEM stemmed by the death of his Eskimos; and A superb collection offurnishings, COMPUTER CUSTOM after Hannah Caroline gave birth to a antiques, accessories & artifacts DESIGNED TO YOUR daughter in , he realized that imported from Indonesia, Japan, EXACT SPECIFICATIONS although you can take the man out of China, & Morocco that will Maine, you can't take Maine out of the surpass your expectations & OUTSTANDING QUALITY man. best of allfuel your soul... AT VERY COMPETITIVE PRICES However, once Hadlock had tri- umphantly returned to Great Cranberry MOHR & McPHERSON Lovell Hall Island with his beautiful new bride, he RIVERBEND was only able to remain settled down for The Source for Unique Furniture, LOG HOMES Antiques & Accessories P.O. BOX 411 three years before his chronic wanderlust NACKAWIC 463 Fore Street, Portland ME 04101 overtook him again. This time his scheme NEW BRUNSWICK was to hunt and stuff seals to be sold in (207) 871-1868 CANADA EOH 1PO Europe. He set sail for the Arctic in the Open daily, Sundays & evenings by appointment 1-800-561-3000 Minerva, a two-masted schooner, leaving Hannah Caroline behind to fend for her- self and their two young children. ~~ ~A Four long and lonely years elapsed I I, • •• • ~ " I before she received word of her husband's fate from a Captain Stanley of Northeast THE MYTH OF FINGERPRINTS , fII' BY BART FREUNDLICH Harbor. He reported encountering a par- ty of Eskimos in Greenland, one of whom was carrying Samuel Hadlock's gun. According to this Eskimo, Hadlock had walked out across the ice in pursuit of a particularly. fine seal, gotten separated from his ship by a sudden snowstorm, and had frozen to death in the act of raising his gun to take aim - which was the position in which the Eskimos found him still crouched the next morning. No one knows whether it was the crush- ing irony or simple grief that temporarily unhinged the Prussian Lady when she first heard the news. Instead of bursting into tears, she immediately borrowed a horse and wagon, loaded all the seals her A husband had stuffed before he left onto it, A ~:t\~~~R~~i!;1g! drove right down to the shore, and MODERN AMERICAN GOTHIC ANGST," -DRU(E 1I'1L1I."'SON. dumped them all into the ocean, ignoring the remonstrances for such wastefulness Lower Lobbq Open 7 daqs that were delivered by the thrifty Yankee lSl Middle St. neighbors she passed along the way. Even- tually Hannah Caroline recovered suffi- Portland, Maine 773-1999 ciently to marry Andrew Haines and to

APRIL • POKItAND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • 21 bear him three children, moving from the largest house on Great Cranberry Island to the largest house in Southwest Harbor (now the Moorings) in the process. She remained in Maine for fifty-twoyears and never saw her homeland again. hese days the Prussian Lady's for- mer home is known for its proxim- ity to the famous Hinckley Yacht Yard, where "the Cadillacs of yachts" are built. "My wife and I, between the two of us, have over one The Lucerne Inn hundred and 20-odd years in the hotel Casual Fine Dining business," boasts current owner Leslie Country Inn Accommodations King. "I started when I was ten, and she Established 1814 started when she was seven." When King was a little boy, Alice Longfellow (Henry Lodging Wadsworth Longfellow's niece, and the Lovely, affordable accommodations. model for "grave Alice" in his poem 'The Every room and suite has a fireplace, a view of the lake and mountains, Children's Hour") still lived in a nearby and a private bath with a whirlpool bathtub and heated towel bars. cottage; and King recalls watching Frank- Dinner Sunday Brunch lin Delano Roosevelt being wheeled up to A delicious dinner, Our famous Buffet, the cottage of his friend Rev. Henry a relaxing atmosphere, a delicious and hearty spread Wilder Foote for a visit on his way up to a romantic sunset over the mountains. makes Sundays special! Campobello. King also remembers one of Served every evening 5-9 p.m. Served every week 9 a.m .. 1 p.m. his relatives,long ago, "riding bikes around Conveniently located on Route lA, midway between Bangor and Ellsworth town with this summer kid named Charlie ljust 15 minutes from Bangor and 60 minutes from Bar Harbor) Dole. Nobody thought anything of it then, 1·800·325·5123 1·207-843·5123 but years later we heard that Charlie had gone out to Hawaii to grow potatoes while he was visiting his parents, who were mis- sionaries there. Eventually he switched over to pineapples." A summer guest King remembers with ABITHA particular relish was U. S. Senator Henry Cabot Lodge. "One time, when he and his wife were staying here right after he EAN'S retired as U. S. Ambassador to Vietnam, their car wouldn't start, so I offered to help. I got behind the wheel, and they R E s T A u RA N T started pushing, and boy do I wish I had a picture of them pushing me in their car! In the Heart of the Arts District - Reservations Recommended They always locked their keys in the trunk of it when they packed up. They'd forget Lunch - Monday through Saturday 11:30arn-3:00prn the keys were inside their duffel bags in the trunk, attached to a piece of driftwood Dinner - Seven Nights a Week Starting at 5:00prn they picked up while cruising, because they never needed them on the boat. Business Lunches Romantic Dinners Then I'd have to crawl in through the back seat to retrieve them, and sometimes Contemporary Cuisine Your Wine Destination I'd even have to cut their duffel bags open to get the keys out." Relaxed Atmosphere Special Event Dinners More recently the Moorings has been a Take Out Available Catering Services temporary haven for Franklin D. Roo- sevelt, Jr., Dr. Spock, Steven Rockefeller, Member of Park & Shop All Major Credit Cards "and all those yachting folks who stay with us while they're picking up their boats at the Hinckley Yacht Yard, or who come in Visit our website at http://www.dineportland.com for a shower at the end oftheir cruise." From the end of his pier, King can point 94 Free Street, Portland, Maine 04101 207-780-8988

APRIL • PORItAND MoNIlll..Y MAGAZINE• 23 out the summer palaces of David Rocke- feller, Caspar Weinberger, and Martha Stewart-all dwarfed to white dots by TI SI.elle, Wllrbill majestic Cadillac Mountain. King finds that in all his years of is a lile preserver. innkeeping, the biggest change has occurred in the length of the tourist sea- When you donate your boat to the son. "It used to be July 1to Labor Day, but National Kidney Foundation of Maine, now it's much longer. Last year 1practi- you answer a real life S.O.S. You will cally had to throw everybody out on Octo- get an unneeded boat conveniently ber 17, because my son was getting picked up. You may get a great tax married here on the eighteenth." One rea- deduction. Your donation will help son for guests' increasing tenacity may be us in our efforts to support Maine the Moorings' very reasonable rates ($55- kidney patients and their families. If $100 per day in season)-a fringe benefit you have a seaworthy boat to contribute, of the Kings' perseverance in their chosen - please give us a call! We accept cars, field. "I got my mortgage all paid off thirty campers and motor homes as well. We'll years ago, so 1can have lower prices now," • arrange pick-up & send tax documentation. King explains.-GT Please Call Atlantic Oakes, Bar Harbor 1-800-488-2277 mong the lodging possibilities at ~ The National Kidney this twelve-acre, oceanfront resort ~ Foundation of Maine are rooms in the Willows, the for- mer summer mansion of Sir Har- 630 Congress street PO Box 1134 ry Oakes, Baronet - who had the Portland, Maine 04104-1134 misfortune to end his extraordinary life as For program and service information please call the victim of the most sensational 207-772-7270 or 1-800-639-7220 unsolved murder of this century. Born in Sangerville, Maine, in 1874, Oakes at- tended Foxcroft Academy and graduated from Bowdoin College, where he was a member of the Zeta Psi fraternity. He went on to Syracuse University Medical FRYEBURG ACADEMY School, but abandoned his studies there after two years in favor of the more lucra- A Unique New England Co-educational tive profession -or so he hoped! -of gold Boarding and Day School prospector. His twenty-year search for a lucky strike took him to the Klondike, Alaska, Mexico, the Philippines, Australia, -Grades 9 - 12 & P.G. New Zealand, California, and the Belgian -Comprehensive Curriculum Congo, and even caused him to be taken -Learning Differences Program a prisoner of the Czar of Russia while shipwrecked off the coast of Siberia. -Competitive High School Athletic Program Fate finally smiled on Oakes in Swasti- -Mount Washington Valley Ski Racing Program ka, Ontario, where his Lake Shore Mine -America's 7th Oldest Academy became the second-largest gold producer in the Western hemisphere. Sometimes For more information contact: his manner of dispensing his millions was Brad Gottschalk purely self-aggrandizing-as when he Director of Admissions built himself a Tudor castle in Canada and then bought out and relocated a near- 207-935-2013 by factory simply because it was spoiling his view of Kirkland Lake. But he was also Fryeburg Academy heavily philanthropic, donating huge 152 Main Street sums of money to his alma mater and oth- Fryeburg, ME 04037-1329 er charities, as well as large tracts of land for local parks, roads, and schools. Accord- ing to Who Killed Sir Harry Oakes, by James Leasor, he even financed a tree-

24 • POKItAND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • APRIL planting scheme to ease unemployment in the Ontario Valley, but his new all-con- suming interest was politics. Oakes had high hopes of winning a seat in the Canadian Senate in return for his many generous contributions to the Lib- eral Party. Unfortunately, Leasor reports, the Conservatives won the election and rewarded him instead with new tax laws under which he wound up personally owing the Canadian government $3 mil- lion dollars. Apparently this circumstance was largely responsible for Oakes' subse- quent removal of himself and his family to the Bahamas, where at the time there were no taxes at all. From there, his quest for prominence took him to London, where his strategic philanthropy earned him a hereditary baronetcy in King George VI's Birthday Honours List of BAR HARBOR & ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 1939. Now the richest baronet in the British Sir Harry Oakes Mansion Empire, Oakes had also, at last, realized "The Willows" on the beautiful grounds of the Atlantic Oakes his political ambitions by winning a seat by-the-sea. 9 room bed & breakfast open Memorial day in the House of Assembly of the Bahamas. to mid-October. Hotel rooms open year round. On premise But on July 8, 1943-the morning he was scheduled to leave his Nassau estate to tennis courts, indoor & outdoor pools, on the ocean. join his wife, Lady Oakes, at the Willows in Bar Harbor for the summer-Oakes 1-800-33-MAlNE • PO Box 3, Bar Harbor, Maine 04609 was found dead in his bed with four holes in his skull and feathers stuck all over his charred and blistered body, which had evidently been doused with gasoline and KAJA VEILLEUX set ablaze. The great benefactor of the Bahamas - who had financed many ANTIQUES, INC. roads, airfields, and hospitals in his new homeland-was returned to Dover-Fox- Open Mon - Fri, 9- 5 .:. Sat 10- 4 croft for funeral and burial; and from this Newcastle Square, Newcastle, ME point on, his story reads like a thriller writ- ten by Scott Turow. (207) 563-1002 Appropriately, ErIe Stanley Gardner, author of the Perry Mason detective sto- Come and vilit our Jbowroom ries, covered the investigation and trial for and view tbe largut cat painting in tbe worliJ the Hearst newspapers; and his well doc- umented jest that "Facts will never spoil a Free verbal appraisals every Thursday Hearst story!" applies equally well to the Art .:.Antiques.:.Appraisals.:.Estate Auctions case itself. To begin with, the Governor

of the Bahamas-who was none other , '\ i '0", ':.Lc:'d'-' ", • We've grown to include than the Duke of Windsor (formerly King • \.t, .. Thomaston Place Edward VIII, who abdicated the British Auction Gallery throne in order to marry the twice-div- . orced American, Wallis Simpson) - stuck .. .•.... , . , ·A;· his oar in and bungled the investigation . ,~. Auctions every two weeks T'_O ih on Saturday nights beyond all repair. This resulted in Oakes' J ::",:.;," son-in-law, Count Alfred de Marigny, -- .,-..t: Feature auctions once a month

"~'-~" being framed and arrested for the crime Antiques and Personal Property Liquidation solely on the basis of circumstantial-and in some cases, deliberately manufac- Call 354-8141 for exact dates and times. tured-evidence. One piece of supposed- u.S. Route I, Thomaston, Maine ly crucial evidence was the singed hair in

APRIL • POKItAND MmmlLY MAGAziNE • 25 the Count's beard-which meant that he had to get permission from the Attorney General to shave! De Marigny, though eventually acquit- ted, was also deported, and -denied entry to the United States and Great Britain- was forced to take refuge with his friend Ernest Hemingway in Cuba. Meanwhile, speculation ran wild as to what had moti- vated the Duke of Windsor's questionable role in the debacle. Some hazarded that perhaps an affair between de Marigny and the Duchess of Windsor had prompted the Duke's vengeful prosecution of the Count. Even more serious-since Oakes' death occurred right in the middle of World War II - was the suggestion that Oakes and the Duke had been illegally transferring vast sums of money to Mexico with the assistance of their mutual friend Axel Wenner-Gren, who founded the 5 Electrolux vacuum cleaner company and was a close friend of Hermann Goering and blacklisted as a Nazi sympathizer. More elaborate theories even roped in BI..UE PEEL is a SAFE, EFFECTIVE chemical peel for the minions of the legendary American gangster Lucky Luciano. According to this correction and rejuvenation. It is the first chemical line of thought, Luciano hoped to gain peel to successfully resurface all skin types, and is parole from Sing Sing and free rein to spread his gambling rackets to the especially effective in treating Bahamas in return for rallying Sicilian wrinkles, scarring and major support for the Allied invasion of as part of a rigged election deal with New pigmentation problems. Come York State Governor Thomas Dewey. Sir Harry Oakes, as a vehement opponent of in for an evaluation or call us for gambling, was a spoke that had to be

more information. removed from the Mafia's works. Ironical- ly, Westbourne, Sir Harry Oakes' Nassau estate, was converted to a hotel-and casi- Plastic 5iLrgery Center no-after his death.-GT ofMaine,PA I Penury Hall, Southwest Harbor Verne Weisberg, M.D., EAC.S. Certified, American Board of Plastic Surgery, Certified, American Board of Otolaryngology The name sounds Dickensian to the 207-nS-1933' 800-688-9133' 232 St.John Street· Suite 321' Portland, Maine 04102 core, but owner Toby Strong has searched Obagi Blue Peel is a trademark of WorldWide Products, Inc. the literature extensively and never once encountered it. "Actually, Gretchen and I named the place to reflect the English 'Portland's ,'Pre'roier Sailing tExcursion Since 1989 tradition of bed and breakfasts being an - ~. affordable alternative to hotels. We could get away with charging a lot more than we AW A N, * do." But despite one-night rates of only $65-$70 in season, a stay at Penury Hall is far from penurious. The 1830s house is decorated with original oil paintings and watercolors by Rod Slater, Robert Chase, and other Maine artists; seventy-eight thriving houseplants - including many brightly colored orchid cacti - beef up the atmosphere's oxygen content; two Maine coon cats are on call for cuddling; and a

26 • POR1UND MONIlILY MAGAZINE • APRIL canoe awaits the adventurous, a sauna the exhausted, and an eclectic library of 1,000 books the literary. "We do serve a Penuri- ous Omelet, though," says Strong. "It's poor because it doesn't have any meat in it, just cheese and salsa." hy else, besides cost, do some travelers prefer bed and break- fasts to traditional hotels? "People who seek total privacy should go to a hotel. People who like to interact with other people know they'll meet folks of a similar turn of mind if they stay at a bed and breakfast. We had one couple that came here seven years in a row, until suddenly they said they couldn't come any longer, because they'd just bought the bed and breakfast up the street and become our competi- tors! Basically, you become an honorary member of the family while you stay here-except that you don't have to do the dishes." Do guests eyer feel so much at home that they accidentally leave some of their belongings behind? "Oh sure, I'm always 366 u.s. Route One Falmouth, ME 04105 finding shoes under the beds. But I don't Tel: 207-781-8011 Fax: 207-781-8229 mail everything back right away. If you find certain articles of clothing hidden away, you don't know for sure who they belong to, or where guests spent their time-and you don't want to land in hot water by returning things to the wrong person. If you're in the hospitality busi- ness, you can't make assumptions about how people traveling together are related, SPRING POINT or r~ise your eyebrows when two men request a room with a double bed." MARINA So how does one recover from the strain of being on duty twenty-four hours a day, TRANSIENTS WELCOME AT seven days a week during high tourist sea- MAINE'S LARGEST son? "We also have a house in the FULL SERVICE MARINA Bahamas, called Penury Hall South, where we spend the winter."-GT

Captain Lindsey Inn, Rockland CHECK OUT OUR SEASONAL DOCKAGE VALUES AND SERVICES Amid the revitalization of Rockland • • • • • •• • • •• • •• • • •• • • • • • •• •• • • ••• •••• ••• ••• stands the Captain Lindsey Inn, built as a • Free haul outs for prop and • Joe's Boathouse Restaurant private home by the Lindsey family in zinc inspections 1837. The inn strives to maintain the • Marine store decor and ambience of a sea captain's • Free holding tank pump outs • Laundry and showers home in the nineteenth century. A com- • Engine and hull repairs • Fuel, ice, bait, and tackle plete restoration and renovation since • Professional and friendly staff • Dockside convenience store 1994 by owners Ken and Ellen Barnes, • 35 ton travelift sea captains themselves, has returned the • Canvas shop structure to its original demeanor. In fact, Authorized Dealer for Boston Whaler, Grady White, Sea Ray, and Carver the rescue of Captain Lindsey from its decades long hiatus as the offices of the Camden Rockland Water Company is symbolic of the rescue of Rockland in the

APRIL • POJmAND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • 27 last ten years from a near ghost town to its status as an up and coming artist commu- nity in the Penobscot Bay. The inn is superbly decorated with impeccable detail. The Captain Lindsey's restaurant, the Waterworks, has had many famous diners, but none as auspicious as frequent visitor Julia Child. Julia held her eighty-fifth birthday this past summer at the inn's restaurant, which comes highly recom- mended from the innkeeper, who jokes with a smiling voice, "my food's damn good." The Farnsworth Museum, featur- ing work by three generations of Wyeths has drawn all sorts of artists to Rockland and the Captain Lindsey. Most recently, SENTRY featured artist Beverly Hallam from York (specializing in painting and mixed medi- COMMUNICATIONS urn) stayed at the Lindsey while her work was displayed in the main gallery of the Combining today's technology with old fashioned service Farnsworth. Owners Ken and Ellen Barnes are real 24 Hour Answering Service Maine sea captains, owning and operating the Stephen Taber and the Pauline. ~~~~~~---....-~ ~---....- 856-6301 According to the owner, the Taber is the 821 Main St. • Westbrook, ME "oldest documented sailing vessel in con- tinuous service in the United States." She Serving all of Maine with Downeast Pride for 26 years is in her 127th year of continuous sailing. The Pauline is an 83-£oot motor yacht designed to be a "New England inn afloat."-FB

Black Point Inn, Scarborough Dave Brubeck, the great jazz piano play- er, went forty years between solo jazz albums. The drought was ended during a month-long stay at the Black Point Inn that gave birth to the inspiration that became Just You, Just Me. The album fea- tures a photo of two Adirondack chairs under an apple tree, which was taken on the grounds of the Black Point. Peter Dugas, brother of resort manager Mark Dugas, is something of a musician him- self. According to Eva, the reservations manager, Peter wanted very badly to find

28 • PORl1.AND MONI1ILY MAGAZINE • APRD.. a way to play with Brubeck but was too dismantled their homes and moved to _..- •••••-- •••~IL.,."".••• intimidated too approach him. Brubeck York Harbor. One of these cabins was _-<....-.- eventually heard about this and invited reerected in 1637 where the York Harbor Peter to jam with him for an afternoon. Inn now stands. The inn grew from these f\~ Maine's/\ Authentic The employees of the Black Point are inauspicious beginnings over the next Oyster Bar vel)' proud of the guest tradition at the inn century as a farmhouse was attached to and its formal policies. Eva remembers the cabin and a horse stable was added hearing about a governors conference in below. The stable is now the site of the the sixties in which, as is usually the case, Pub, the inn's vel)' charming English style jacket and tie were required. The gover- watering hole. York Harbor became a On Portland's Waterfront nor of Connecticut only had a shirt on resort hot spot at the tum of the century, Enjoy the salty atmosphere of 3'6 q/6t..- and was denied access to the dining room. connected by railroad to Boston and New Portland's window on the water! "I'm the governor of Connecticut," he York. As the rail lines fell out of use in the Or - experience the view and a whiff retorted testily. "Well, this is the Black 1920s and fires engulfed the area's hotels, of the sea on our waterfront patio! Point Inn," came the calm reply. York Harbor fell out of style with big-city ( Many golfers have journeyed to secretive socialites. ***., Taste & Tell - Maine Sunday Telegram 0c December 5, 1993 0 and private Prout's Neck for a summer . Gal)' and Joseph Dominguez took over o Our Full Menu Served stay, including Arnold Palmer (during the inn in 1979 and rescued it from disre- .' ,0 Hurricane Gloria), Curtis Strange, and, pair. They added onto it considerably, from II am to Midnight er, O.J. Simpson (just before). The inn, reestablished and expanded the kitchen Best Steamers in Town which has been featured in Travel 0- and in 1984 purchased a second building, . Mixing Good People, Leisure, has also been very popular with the Yorkshire House, which had been ~ Good Food film stars such as Paul Newman and built in 1783. The Learning Channel has " and Good Drinks Woody Allen. recently featured the inn in its "Great :.;r::J:> for 21Years Countty Inns" special. York Harbor Inn,York Mark Twain owned a home on the York ~~POrtiand Pier. In the early to mid seventeenth centul)' River and is said to have been a nightly original settlers of the Isle of Shoals (ten guest at the pub. Nearly a centul)' earlier, miles off the coast of Portsmouth) literally John Hancock, who owned and operated - 772-482~-- ~ q < CHOI'S SCHOOL OF SELF DEFENSE is proudly celebrating our

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APRIL • POImAND MONlllLY MAGAllNE • 29 a wharf business on the river, is certain to .s~---~..._--_.- Barbara'sKitchen ~ have hitched up his horse at the stables. In DINE IN SIMPLE ELEGANCE more modern times Bette Davis, Roger Candlelight and Fine Wines Moore, and Talia Shire have dropped in FJ'll~·li¥t\B (the latter pair while filming Bed 6 Break- Come to South Portland for Dinner fast). Dave Brubeck played in Cape Ned- Serving Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Warehouse Setting (catering for all occasions) dick in 1985and stayed at the inn, and the Baldwins were in town for a wedding and Factory Prices 388 Cottage Road 60 years of Family Service 767-6313 stopped in for dinner. Kevin Bacon was a South Portland, Maine 04106 dinner' guest as well.-FB 250 Read St. MCNisa • Reservations Suggested Portland Bethel Inn, Bethel Breakfast & Lunch: Tuesday-Friday, 7-2 p.m. Saturday & Sunday 8-2 p.m. he long visitor tradition of the 878-5202 Dinner: Thursday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Bethel Inn, established in 1913, Mon-Fri 9-6; Sat 9-5; Sun 12-4 was shaken by the ttbad Mrs. Cuc- ci," who stayed eight or nine years ago on a trip to Maine to deliver one of her children to summer camp. She was ttshort and svelte and very made up and glamorous. She drank Manhattans and talked a great deal about her massive assortment of shoes," according to market- ing manager Heidi Davidson. The gener- al manager came back from a round of golf on the inn's highly touted course to find the ttbad Mrs. Cucci" sunbathing topless at the pool. Apparently there was 761-2150 quite an uproar - it's a family inn - and 594 Congress Street Mrs Cucci, despite a volley of protests, continued this practice for the duration Cash Paid of her stay. The story ends with a bizarre for Your epilogue as ttshe is now evidently in prison for murdering someone." Old Books, Paul Newman and Joanne Woodward SUBSCRIBE! came in the summer of 1978 for a little Prints, Maps. For one year @ $2~ r&r, but instead found themselves beset o o For two years @ $3500 on all sides by the curious residents of Tax & Insurance Appraisals o For three years @ $4200 Bethel. The country club members sel- Single ~ems or large collections want My Name _ dom used the pool facilities, but when Street _ BROWSERS Paul decided to spend an afternoon pool- ALWAYS WELCOME side mothers suddenly showed to tttake City _ Member State __ Zip (add 116if outside 1'5) AntIQuarIan BooIlse_ Assoc. of America their children swimming." Noah Wyle, star of1Vs ttE.R." and the sit our Wells Book Sho Send This Fonn & A Check To: rest of the crew (Roy Scheider, Blythe Subscriptions, Portland Magazine Route 1, Wells 646-87 578 Congress Street Portland, ME 04101 Danner, et. al.) of the recently released feature film The Myth of Fingerprints, which was shot in Bethel, had a more Jillxed Boiler/Water Heater'! Call I pleasant stay. Noah considers himself a bit America \ /lome /leatillK Team! of a pool shark and challenged the staff of Burnham's V7 oil boiler the inn to find someone who could beat ·1·... and Alliance indirect water .....'.',; ~-:; h~at~r is your '._. CORIAN him (lucky for him, Paul Newman wasn't BUILDERS-REMODELERS- ...... ~" WlnnlngliJ I ..· . CONTRACTORS a guest at the time). He was pointed in the ,,;; .... combination. Buy Direct - Factory Showroom direction of Wendy, a waitress at the res- 8 Save on . heating and domestic . Certified Fabricator taurant. ttl understand you're the best pool ~ Installer player in Bethel," he challenged, tTll play hot water bills. C2lJ ttJlIII" J.C.W. D you for a hundred bucks." Wendy searched 999 Roosevelt Trail her pockets. ttHow about $5?"They played ~ UNlTS8&9 • Charlie Burnham •_ Windham, Maine 04062 often in the evenings at the Back Stage, a ~ 1-800-395-5917 local bar, and according to Heidi, tWendy C:::'= Heating Service, Inc. would just whip him." -FB & llBumani.- Freeport 865-9010 • Portl1lld 828-4886

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