1 South Sport Climbs A rock climbing guidebook to the best sport climbing in South Wales Carmarthenshire

Text and route information by Mark Glaister, Gower Goi Ashmore, Roy Thomas, Gary Gibson Crag photography by Mark Glaister and Adrian Berry Action photography as credited Edited by Alan James Technical Editor Stephen Horne Printed in Europe on behalf of Latitude Press Limited (ISO 14001 and EMAS certified printers) Distributed by Cordee (cordee.co.uk)

All maps by ROCKFAX Some maps based on original source data from openstreetmap.org

Published by ROCKFAX in November 2016 © ROCKFAX 2016 Inland and Coastal Limestone Inland and Coastal rockfax.com

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise without prior written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library.

This book is printed on FSC certified paper made from 100% virgin fibre sourced from sustainable forestry

ISBN 978 1 873341 36 0 Mark Glaister

Cover: Rhoslyn Frugtniet on Retrobution (7b) - page 107 - Trial Goi Ashmore Sandstone Valleys The Wall, Gower. Photo: Simon Rawlinson This page: Naomi Buys breaking out of the final corner of the Roy Thomas classic Dinas Rock testpiece Berlin (7a+) - page 189. Photo: Mike Hutton Gary Gibson Inland andCoastalLimestone Gower . Carmarthenshire South Wales Climbing Sport Introduction South Wales Logistics Sport The ValleysSandstone Barland Quarry Barland Rams Tor . . Gulch Area . Bosco's ParlourBowen's Area Minchin Hole Foxhole Watch House. Oxwich . Third Sister to ZuluZawn TrialWall Area Beach. Cwm Capel Pendine Morfa Bychan . Telpyn Point . Destination Planner. Sandstone Graded List Limestone Graded List andDWSBouldering . Trad Climbing. Grades . Gear andBolting Access . Cafes, GearShopsand Walls . Pubs . Dinas Rock Accommodation . Getting Around andMap Acknowledgements Previous Guidebooks. Symbol, Mapand Topo Key . RockfaxThe App. Taff's Well West Taff's Well . Temple Bay Witches Point . Gilwern . Dan Dicks Ferndale . Gelli Quarry Abbey Buttress . Dyffryn . Upon Alun. Castle The Darren . . . . Glynfach . . Coed Ely Ton ......

226 206 288 286 284 278 262 256 252 248 236 306 302 298 296 292 290 266 168 166 158 152 148 140 134 126 172 194 214 104 176 274 174 112 70 82 80 78 58 48 46 42 40 36 35 34 32 30 28 26 24 22 20 14 18 12 10 9 8 4 Contents Crag andGeneral Index Route Index . . Tirpentwys Sirhowy Tyle yCoch . Quarry Crymlyn Llanbradach . Bargoed . Deri Navigation Quarry The Gap. Mountain Ash. . South South Wales Climbs Sport . . . . . page 331-atNavigationQuarry. Photo:MarkGlaister wall climbingontheexcellentBlackMagic(6b)- Jen Stephensmidwayupthesustainedoff-vertical . . 368 368 358 354 352 340 336 334 320 328 376 312 3

The Valleys Sandstone Inland and Coastal Limestone Gower Carmarthenshire 4 South Wales Sport Climbs Introduction Introduction South Wales Sport Climbs 5

South of the Brecon Beacons lies a wealth of sport climbing that spans from the River Wye to the Welsh Border in Pembrokeshire. Until now, it has been somewhat unknown, overshadowed by better known areas.

Carmarthenshire The Valleys Sandstone quarries and the spectacular sea cliffs of Gower have been climbed on for decades, resulting in many steel-fingered locals and numerous stunning trad sea cliffs respectively. However, since the late 1980s it has been the development of sport climbing that has been the major source of

action in the area, firstly on the sandstone quarries and now across the inland Carmarthenshire limestone and coastal limestone cliffs.

The area offers a multitude of venues located in environments that vary from sea cliff to mountainside, and post-industrial landscapes to world heritage settings. This book covers the sport climbing that has been developed on this varied collection of natural and quarried crags of both limestone and sandstone.

The routes on offer cover the full grade span - ranging from easy-going 3s and 4s through to some state-of-the-art upper end grade 8s. There is plenty to keep Gower both local and visitor busy for a long time, with over 1800 fully bolted routes

documented in this guide and potential for many more to come. Gower

The area is conveniently situated - whether you are based in Cardiff or , travelling to or from Pembroke, or on a quick trip from London down the M4 corridor. There is plenty to appeal for quick evenings, full weekend trips or as an escape from bad weather elsewhere. Staying in the area is easily arranged, with the popular options of camping or modern hostel accommodation being widely available.

Inland and CoastalInland Limestone The climbing is easily split into four main areas - Carmarthenshire sea cliffs, Gower, Inland and Coastal Limestone and The Valleys Sandstone.

Gower's stunning beaches and cliffs will be a main draw for holidaying visitors and locals alike, whilst nearby Camarthenshire's remote sea cliffs will reward those prepared to try somewhere off of the beaten track.

The inland limestone and coastal cliffs are situated in a wide circle around the Limestone Inland and Coastal Valleys Sandstone. Some of them are long established and well used by locals, but have not been recognised by climbers coming from further afield and deserve much more attention.

Finally the sandstone quarries that line the sides of the valleys stretching up towards the Brecon Beacons bring a fascinating dimension to the area. The

The ValleysSandstone ambience is not always what many go climbing for, but lurking in the confines of these little known venues are some truly memorable pitches that will test technique and finger strength to the maximum.

So if you have enjoyed the sport climbing at Portland, North Wales, The Peaks or Yorkshire give South Wales a punt - rock up at Foxhole, Rhossili, Dinas Cai Bishop-Guest hanging out on the lip of Foxhole's Rock, Witches Point, Sirhowy, Tirpentwys, Navigation Quarry or Gilwern and Top50 classic Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove (7b) - page Sandstone Valleys The you might well be in for a pleasant surprise. 143. Foxhole is one of a number of fine sport climbing venues on Gower and offers opportunities for cragging throughout the year. It also has the benefit of being non- Mark Glaister, October 2016 tidal and sheltered from the rain. Photo: Simon Rawlinson 6 South Wales Sport Climbs Introduction Introduction South Wales Sport Climbs 7

Coverage This book covers virtually all the worthwhile sport climbing to be found on the limestone and sandstone crags and quarries of South Wales. It isn't a definitive

Carmarthenshire coverage in the traditional style of guidebook, and the area is constantly developing hence there are always likely to be new routes being added. However, it is the most comprehensive documentation of sport climbing in this area yet published and will be added to and improved in both print and digital formats over the coming years. Carmarthenshire The trad climbing in the area has not been covered. In some places we have listed a few trad routes, and you would be well advised to pack a trad rack if visiting the crags since there are a number of semi-sport routes and fully trad challenges amongst the sport routes. In most cases these are in the harder grades.

The coverage is in the now familiar format designed so that you should never have to turn more than a few pages to first get to the crag, then get to the buttress and finally locate the start of your chosen route. All route descriptions are on the same page as their topo and listed from left to right. There are many other features to

Gower help choose suitable routes and crags depending on specific weather conditions or your ability level. You can select a crag from the crag tables on page 42. Each topo also has crag symbols for a quick glance check - see key on page 9. Gower

This book is also available in digital form on the Rockfax App - see page 8 for more information. Inland and CoastalInland Limestone Inland and Coastal Limestone Inland and Coastal The ValleysSandstone

Guidebook Footnote The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes within this guide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. The grades set in this guide are a fair assessment of the difficulty of the climbs. Climbers Sandstone Valleys The who attempt a route of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising Sundown at , Gower. Photo: Simon Rawlinson from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. 8 South Wales Sport Climbs The Rockfax App Symbol, Map and Topo Key South Wales Sport Climbs 9

This South Wales Sport Climbs guidebook is also available on the Route Symbols Topo Key Rockfax App which brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC Logbooks and presents it in a user-friendly package for use on 1 A good route which is well worth the effort. Apple iOS devices (Android version available from early 2017). Descent Abseil line Carmarthenshire A very good route, one of the best on the crag. Crag-top 2 Approximate The heart of the app is the Rockfax crag and route information which belay Lower-off A brilliant route, one of the best in the area. vertical is downloaded by way of paid in-app purchases for individual crags, 3 height or bundles of crags, in 'Areas' which correspond roughly to printed A significant route which is one of the best of its 20m guidebooks. You can purchase each crag or area individually, or the whole book. The main 4 type and grade in the book. Variation Carmarthenshire Technical climbing requiring good balance and (see route data on the app is downloaded and stored on your device so you don't need any signal to description) be able to read the descriptions and see the topos and maps. There is a free sample crag t technique, or complex and tricky moves. Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low for each area and some of these are quite extensive, enabling you to get a really good p lock-offs or long moves off small holds. impression of what Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves or the app is like without s steep rock giving pumpy climbing. shelling out any Fingery climbing with significant small holds on money. f the hard sections. Sport Fluttery climbing with big fall potential and scary route (yellow Route on The Rockfax App h run-outs. Gower dash) another itself is a free A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for one page

download and r or more of the moves. Gower incredibly useful in its Trad l Some loose rock may be encountered. route own right. It contains (white a detailed crag Crag Symbols dash) map linked to the Angle of the approach walk to the crag with UKClimbing crags S14 min approximate time. database (currently Approximate time that the crag is in the direct sun with basic information E (when it is shining). 1 2 3 4

Inland and CoastalInland Limestone and routes lists for The crag is exposed to bad weather and will catch around 20,000 crags the wind if it is blowing. $ Buttress on another page worldwide). The map Approach Some or all of the routes can only be reached at page also displays all the % certain states of the tide. 4,000+ listings from the UKClimbing Directory of climbing walls, outdoor shops, climbing The crag can offer shelter from cold winds and it Map Key clubs, outdoor-specific accommodation and instructors and guides amongst others. * may be a good suntrap in colder weather. Path The crag suffers from seepage. It may well be wet Scale

To find the app, search for 'Rockfax app' in Google or in the appropriate app store. Limestone Inland and Coastal @ and unclimbable in winter and early spring. A crag GPS Coordinates The crag is steep and may well offer some dry page Track UKC Logbooks of parking ! rock to climb when it is raining. Additional An incredibly popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing.com Town/village logbooks system. This database lists more than 383,000 routes, over 20,500 crags Some or all of the routes have a restriction due to parking C nesting birds. Details in the crag information. QR code for worldwide and, so far, more than 31,000 users have recorded over 4.9 million ascents! To B Roads smartphone Some or all of the routes are affected by an access navigation set up your own logbook all you need to do is register at UKClimbing.com and click on Train map for scan The ValleysSandstone the logbook tab. Once set up you will be able to record every ascent you make, when you X problem. Details in the crag information. station did it, what style you climbed it in and who you did it with. Each entry has a place for your Deserted - Currently under-used and usually quiet. Campsite Fewer good routes or remote and smaller areas. A Roads own notes. You can also add your vote to the grade/star system linked to a database on the Building Rockfax site used by the guidebook writers. The logbook can be private, public or restricted Quiet - Less popular sections on major crags, to your own climbing partners only. or good buttresses with awkward approaches. Beach The Rockfax App can be linked to your UKClimbing.com user account and logbook so that Busy - Places you will seldom be alone, especially A crag on another page Sandstone Valleys The you can record your activity while at the crag and look at photos, comments and votes on at weekends. Good routes and easy access. page the routes. To do this you will need a 3G/4G data connection. You can also look at the UKC Crowded - The most popular sections of the most logbooks to see if anyone has climbed your chosen route recently to check on conditions. popular crags which are always busy. Rocky shore 10 South Wales Sport Climbs Previous Guidebooks Previous Guidebooks South Wales Sport Climbs 11

Key Previous Guidebooks and Route Information Sources Trad and sport climbing on the sandstone and limestone crags of South Wales has been documented since the 1970s. We are very grateful to all those who have worked on previous guidebooks and those who Carmarthenshire have taken the trouble to record their endeavours. The key books and web-based information sites are listed below.

Guidebooks Gower Carmarthenshire J.O.Talbot (West Col 1970)

Southeast Wales J.C.Horsfield (SWMC 1973)

Southeast Wales John Harwood (SWMC 1978)

Gower and Southeast Wales M.Danford, Tony Penning (SWMC 1983) Gower Gower & S.E.Wales

A.E.Richardson (SWMC 1991) Gower

Southeast Wales Sandstone Goi Ashmore, A.Senior (JDMEL 1991)

Southeast Wales Sandstone Goi Ashmore (JDMEL 1995)

Gower Sport Climbs Adrian Berry (1997) Inland and CoastalInland Limestone Southeast Wales Sandstone, Limestone & Gower Sport Topos Gary Gibson (Climb High 1997)

Gower & S.E.Wales Goi Ashmore, Roy Thomas (SWMC 2003)

Gower Sport Climbing MiniGuide and Rockfax App Limestone Inland and Coastal Adrian Berry (Rockfax 2010, 2013 and 2016)

Gower Rock Stuart Llewellyn, Matt Woodfield (Pesda Press 2012)

Websites The ValleysSandstone UKClimbing.com - The UKC Logbook route database for all areas (including trad) covered in this guidebook.

southwalesmountaineering.org.uk - A wiki covering the trad and sport climbing in the area. A good spot to look for new developments.

swbg.co.uk - A guide to bouldering in the area. Sandstone Valleys The Oscar Phillips, belayed by his sister Emily, on the superb climbing and rock of the technical wall climb Marmalade Skies (7a) - page 143 - at Foxhole on Gower. Photo: Simon Rawlinson 12 South Wales Sport Climbs Acknowledgements Acknowledgements South Wales Sport Climbs 13

We would like to thank all the people who have We are grateful to the following companies helped us put together this guidebook. who have supported this guidebook.

Simon Rawlinson, Adrian Berry, Mike Hutton, Alauzon - Page 23 Carmarthenshire Alan Rosier, Andy Sharp, Martyn Richards, Matt alauzon.com Woodfield, Stuart Llewellyn, Dave Henderson, Awesome Walls - Page 2 Carrie Hill, Dave Pickford, Rob McAllister, awesomewalls.co.uk Myles Jordan, David Price, John Bullock, Danny McCarroll, John Warner, Jen Stephens, Tom Boulders - Back cover flap Carmarthenshire Skelhon, Charlotte Macdonald, Mark Tomlinson, bouldersuk.com Brian Wilkinson, Dave Henderson, Lee Proctor, Boreal - Page 17 Bev Jowett, Rob Watt, Royston Thomas, borealoutdoor.com Marti Hallett, Ali Martindale, Phil Black, Rosy Klinkenberg, Jay Astbury, Liz Collyer, Nick Goile, Beta Climbing Designs - Page 31 Becky Hayes, Paul Bowen, Pete Blackburn, Kate betaclimbingdesigns.com Beynon, Paul Cox, Bridget Collier, Dai Emanuel, Cold Mountain Kit - Inside front cover Eugene Travers-Jones, Hazel Gibson, Geraint coldmountainkit.com Morris, Guy Percival, Rhian Bullock, Rebecca Ting. Gower Crux - Page 29

Elfyn Jones from the BMC for the access crux.uk.com Gower information. DMM - Back cover dmmclimbing.com It has as ever been a pleasure to work with Alan James and the UKC/Rockfax team. Haverfordwest Leisure Centre - Inside back cover Mark Glaister, Gary Gibson, pembrokeshire.gov.uk/leisure Roy Thomas, Goi Ashmore. Up and Under Outdoor Gear - Page 25 Inland and CoastalInland Limestone upandunder.co.uk October 2016 Inland and Coastal Limestone Inland and Coastal The ValleysSandstone The Valleys Sandstone Valleys The

Dave Pickford moving up the steep Staple Diet (7b) - page 229 - at the beachside Witches Point. Witches Point, along with its close neighbour Temple Bay, offers some great climbing straight off the beach. Photo: Mark Glaister

Carmarthenshire Gower Limestone Coastal and Inland Sandstone Valleys The 15 15 Logistics South Wales SportSouth Wales

- at Glynfach. This sheltered spot is perched high above (6b+) - page 297 - at Glynfach. This sheltered spot is perched

Paul Cox approaching the lower-off at the top of the fabulous line of Killer Paul Cox approaching the lower-off Arete the valley floor and has some great pitches on good rock. Glynfach is easily Photo: Mark Glaister or Trehafod. combined with a visit to the nearby Trebanog 14 14 Carmarthenshire Gower Inland and Coastal Limestone The Valleys Sandstone 5 9 14 Dec 7 11 15 Nov 10 15 14 Oct 11 12 18 Sep 11 14 20 Aug 10 14 20 Jul 10 18 12 Jun 9 10 15 May or 6 11 12 Apr 9 5 14 Mar 8 4 11 Feb 8 4 15 Mountain RescueMountain and Coastguard Jan Dial 112 and ask for ‘MOUNTAIN RESCUE' ‘MOUNTAIN ask for and Dial 112 South Wales Sport Logistics Wales South In the event of an accident requiring the assistance of Mountain Rescue: of Mountain the assistance requiring of an accident event In the could be a long way from your current location. This can cause delays in the rescue in the rescue This can cause delays location. current your from could be a long way Dial 112 and ask for 'COASTGUARD RESCUE' for sea cliffs for RESCUE' 'COASTGUARD ask for and Dial 112 procedure as the authorities try and track down where the injured party is. Asking for for Asking party the injured where as the authorities try down is. procedure track and 'Mountain Rescue' or 'Coastguard' will redirect you to people who know the area well. the area people who know to you will redirect or 'Coastguard' Rescue' 'Mountain

Temperature ˚C Temperature

This is very important since just asking for 'Police' will redirect you to a switchboard which a switchboard to you will redirect This is very 'Police' importantasking for since just Average Min Temp (˚C) Temp Min Average Average Max Temp (˚C) Temp Max Average Average Rain Days/Month Rain Average and Gilwern for fresher conditions when things become very hot lower down. conditions when things become very hot lower fresher for and Gilwern best climbed on from Spring until Autumn, heading to the higher crags such as Treherbert Treherbert such as the higher crags heading to Autumn, Spring until best climbed on from the most reliable conditions are to be found during the cooler months. The other areas are are The other areas during the cooler months. be found to conditions are the most reliable conditions throughout the year. The climate data given above is for Gower and it is here that and it is here Gower is for above given data The climate the year. conditions throughout mountain tops to sheltered seaside suntraps. As a result there is scope for climbing in good climbing is scope for there As a result seaside suntraps. sheltered to tops mountain When to Go to When exposed from ranging diverse, geographically in this guide are covered The climbing sites More information and other travel tips are at information-britain.co.uk and visitwales.com tips are and other travel information More 231557 01267 Tel: 1AD. SA31 Carmarthen House, Carmarthen Castle, - Castle - The Twyn, CF83 1JL. Tel: 02920 880011 Tel: CF83 1JL. Twyn, The - Caerphilly - Plymouth Street, SA1 3QG. Tel: 01792 468321 01792 Tel: 3QG. SA1 Street, - Plymouth Swansea - Crickhowell Information Centre, Beaufort Street, NP8 1BN. Tel: 01873 812105 01873 Tel: NP8 1BN. Beaufort Street, Centre, Information - Crickhowell Crickhowell - Unit 1, Wales Millennium Centre, CF10 5AL. Tel: 02920 877927 02920 Tel: 5AL. CF10 Millennium Centre, Wales - Unit 1, Cardiff - Blaenavon World Heritage Centre, Church Road, NP4 9AS. Tel: 01495 742333 01495 Tel: NP4 9AS. Road, Church Heritage Centre, World - Blaenavon Blaenavon - The Tithe Barn, Monk Street, NP7 5ND. Tel: 01873 853254 01873 Tel: Barn, NP7 5ND. Tithe Monk Street, The - Abergavenny possible to include in these pages. include in these pages. to possible a look at the Tourist Information Centres. They contain a lot more useful information than it is useful information a lot more contain They Centres. Information Tourist a look at the If you are short of ideas about what to do on a wet day or need some accommodation, take take or need some accommodation, short day do on a wet are about what to If you of ideas in many instances where there is some coverage from any provider. any from is some coverage there where instances in many Centres Park and National Centres Information Tourist that even if you cannot get a signal from your provider, emergency calls will still get through calls will still get through emergency provider, your from cannot get a signal if you that even Mobile Phones Remember in this book. is good at the majority featured the crags of Mobile phone coverage 16 Carmarthenshire Gower Inland and Coastal Limestone The Valleys Sandstone 18 South Wales Sport Logistics Getting Around and Map Getting Around and Map South Wales Sport Logistics 19

Carmarthen A40 Abergavenny St.Clears Inland and Coastal Limestone - p.174 Whitland A465 Glanaman Carmarthenshire Carmarthenshire - p.46 Cross Hands Ebbw Vale Gilwern A40 Ammanford Dinas Rock Telpyn Point Tredegar p.214 A48 p.176 p.48 Ystalyfera A467 Merthyr Tydfil Pendine A465 A469 Crymlyn Quarry Glyn-neath Mountain Ash

p.352 Carmarthenshire p.312 Bargoed Tirpentwys Pontardawe Deri Pendine Cwm Capel Cwmaman p.336 p.368 A465 Aberfan p.334 p.70 p.78 p.306 Dyffryn A470 M4 Morfa Bychan Burry Port Treherbert Quarry Bargoed Pontypool Llanelli p.256 Blaenllechau p.58 p.266 The Gap p.286 Newbridge Neath Neath p.320 A4042 Cwmbran Gower - p.80 Ferndale Dan Dicks Navigation Quarry Barland Quarry p.284 p.288 p.328 Tyle y Coch Swansea p.172 A469 p.354 Rhossili Beach The Darren p.82 Maesteg Gelli Oxwich A4118 p.274 p.302 Sirhowy Gower p.126 Port Talbot p.278 p.358 A467 Rhossili Southgate The A470 Newport Trehafod Caerphilly Llanbradach Trial Wall Area Gower A483 Trebanog p.298 p.340 p.104 Rams Tor p.290 The Valleys Sandstone - p.252 p.168 Abbey Buttress Glynfach Pwlldu Bay p.262 p.296 Taff's Well Watch House Pyle A4119 Third Sister to Zulu Zawn p.166 p.194 M4 p.134 Bridgend Cardiff p.112 Foxhole Bosco's Gulch Area Coed Ely Taff's Well West p.140 p.158 Bowen's Parlour Area p.292 p.206 Minchin Hole Porthcawl A4232 p.152 p.148 Witches Point Inland and CoastalInland Limestone p.226 Castle Upon Alun Penarth p.248 Barry Llantwit Major Temple Bay p.236

About 10km Inland and Coastal Limestone Inland and Coastal Getting Around Public Transport The main artery roads of the M4 leading on to the A48, A465 and A40 bisect the area and The area has some of the easiest crags to get to by public transport in the UK. The cliffs provide quick and easy access to most of the crags if travelling from afar. The starting points of Gower, The Valleys Sandstone, Witches Point and Dinas Rock are all simple to reach for approaches to the crags are all easily reached by car and the approach descriptions are from either Cardiff, Bridgend or Swansea by rail and bus. Nearly all The Valleys Sandstone written assuming you have access to a car. crags are within striking distance of railway stations. Gower is very well serviced by bus from

The ValleysSandstone Swansea. Cardiff and Swansea are on the mainline from London and Bristol. Satellite Navigation GPS 54.060178 All the parking spots are indicated with a precise GPS location. This is in the form Buses - the website traveline.info is an excellent place to get a quick idea of links and times -2.154509 of two decimal numbers as in the sample blue box. Different GPS devices accept of bus services. The tourist information centres are also useful for travel information. these numbers in alternative formats, although this is the standard format and it can be cut Trains - The cities of Cardiff, Swansea and many of the towns in The Valleys can all be easily scan for map for scan

and pasted directly into Google Maps. Sandstone Valleys The QR codes have been included with the approach maps. You can scan the QR code reached by train. For timetable information go to thetrainline.com using an app such as Scan (for iOS) or Google Goggles (for Android) and choose to open the result direct into the Google Maps navigation app on your phone. 20 South Wales Sport Logistics Accommodation Accommodation South Wales Sport Logistics 21

Carmarthenshire Wern Watkin Bunkhouse - Map on page 175 The Valley Campsite - See map on page 47 Llangattock, Crickhowell NP8 1LG The Valley, Amroth Road, Llanteg. SA67 8QJ wernwatkin.co.uk Tel: 01834 831720 thevalleycampsite.co.uk High quality accommodation in a stunning setting. Carmarthenshire Basic site close to the climbing at Pendine, Morfa Need to book in advance. Good for Gilwern and Bychan and Telpyn. dropping over into the sandstone crags of the Val- leys. Remote and no facilities nearby.

Gower Pwll Du Adventure Centre - Map on page 214 Pitton Cross Camping - See map on page 80 Blaenavon, NP4 9SS Tel: 01495 791577 Carmarthenshire Rhossili, Gower. SA3 1PT pwllduadventurecentre.co.uk Tel: 01792 390593 pittoncross.co.uk Bunkhouse within walking distance of Gilwern. Nice site that is well positioned for all the areas on Gower. Best to book ahead at busy times. Acorn Camping - See map on page 175 Ham Lane South, Llantwit Major. CF61 1RP Eastern Slade Barn - See map on page 80 Tel: 01446 794024 acorncamping.co.uk Oxwich, Gower. SA3 1NA. Tel: 01792 391374 Well positioned for Witches Point and crags just easternsladebarngower.co.uk off of the M4. Quiet site close to beaches. No Superb accommodation plus a basic camping groups allowed. Book ahead at busy times. field. Book ahead for the bunkhouse. Gower Southerndown - See map on page 227

Limestone and Valleys Three Golden Cups, Southerndown, CF32 0RW. Gower Lone Wolf Campsite - See map on page 175 Tel: 01656 880432 thethreegoldencups.co.uk Glyn Y Mul Farm, Aberdulais. SA10 8HF Seasonal site, close to Witches Point. Tel: 01639 638551 glynymulfarm.co.uk Out of the way site. No groups. Well placed for Heritage Coast Campsite - Map on page 175 Dinas Rock and Dyffryn. No pubs nearby. Monknash, Vale of . CF71 7QQ Tel: 01656 890399 heritagecoastcampsite.com Park Farm - See map on page 175 Good site near to Witches Point. No Groups. Llangattock, Crickhowell. NP8 1HT. Tel: 01873 770589 parkfarm-campsite.co.uk Cwmcarn Forest Camping - Map on page 255 Inland and CoastalInland Limestone Excellent site good for Gilwern and dropping over Cwmcarn, Crosskeys. NP11 7FA into the sandstone crags of the Valleys. Easy walk Tel: 01495 272001 your.caerphilly.gov.uk/ into Crickhowell for good pubs, restaurants, cafes cwmcarnforest/ and takeaways. No need to book ahead. Nice camp site with 10 'glamping' pods available. Good mountain bike opportunities and only a 20 minute walk to the local pub - the Philanthropic Inn. Book in advance. Inland and Coastal Limestone Inland and Coastal The ValleysSandstone

Marti Hallett on Debbie Reynolds (7a) - page 116 - at Sandstone Valleys The Deborah's Zawn, Gower. Deborah's Zawn is one of Gower's tougher venues that, along with Shipwreck The Lone Wolf campsite. Cove, Foxhole and neighbouring Zulu Zawn, contain Photo: Mark Glaister the pick of its harder climbs. Photo: Mark Glaister 22 South Wales Sport Logistics Pubs

Carmarthenshire The Three Golden Cups - Map on page 227 Springwell Inn - See map on page 70 Southerndown, Bridgend. CF32 0RW Pendine, Carmarthen. SA33 4PA Tel: 01656 880432. Small pub close to Witches Tel: 01994 453274. Nice friendly spot close to Point and the beach. Carmarthenshire the beach. Plough and Harrow Monknash, Cowbridge. CF71 7QQ Gower Tel: 01656 890209. Ancient country pub with The Joiners Arms - See map on page 172 good food. Close to Witches Point. 50 Bishopston Road, Bishopston. SA3 3EJ Tel: 01792 232658 - Handy spot for crags at The Pelican - See map on page 227 the eastern end of Gower. Ogmore-by-Sea, Bridgend. CF32 0QP Tel: 01656 880049. Upmarket venue with food King Arthur Hotel and a lively atmosphere. Close to Witches , Gower. SA3 1AD Point and Castle Upon Alun crags. Tel: 01792 390775. Excellent venue. Good food and beer garden. Not particularly close to the Prince of Wales coast but worth the effort to get to. Ton Kenfig, Bridgend. CF33 4PR Tel: 01656 740356. Good pub with food Gower Worm's Head Hotel - See map on page 82 midway between Witches Point and Abbey Rhossili, Gower, West Glamorgan. SA3 1PP Buttress. Tel: 01792 390512. Fine location overlooking the beach and Worm's Head. Decent food and Greenhouse Inn great outside terrace. Newport Road, Llantarnam. NP44 3BP Tel: 01633 866911. On the western side of the Limestone and Valleys Valleys and a good spot for Tirpentwys. Gwaelod Y Garth Inn - See map on page 206 Taffs Well, Gwaelod-y-Garth. CF15 9HH Glantaff Inn - See map on page 320 Tel: 02920 810408 - Close to Taffs Well crags. Quakers Yard, Treharris. CF46 5AH Inland and CoastalInland Limestone Nice, rustic and homely. Tel:01443 410822. Good friendly spot central to many of the Valleys crags especially The The Bear Hotel Gap. Good food and beer. Crickhowell. NP8 1BW. Tel: 01873 810408 Good hotel bar with decent food. Close to Gilwern crags and Park Farm camping. The ValleysSandstone

The King Arthur Hotel in Reynoldston. Photo: Mark Glaister 24 South Wales Sport Logistics Cafes, Gear Shops and Walls

Cafes Climbing Walls Plenty of options on the Pendine seafront in Boulders Carmarthenshire and in The Valleys. Four Pengam Road,

Carmarthenshire cafes in other areas worth a mention are: Cardiff CF24 2RZ. The Bay Bistro and Coffee House - In Tel: 02920 484880 Rhossili with great views over the beach Large centre with leading and bouldering. and close to the parking. Good coffee. bouldersuk.com Three Cliffs Coffee Shop - In Southgate See advert on front cover flap next to the parking. Has a shop with post office and cash machine. Number 18 - On the High Street in The Hangout Crickhowell. Good coffee and atmosphere. Haverfordwest Dunraven Beach Cafe - A seasonal cafe in Leisure Centre, Southerndown (Witches Point car park). Haverfordwest SA61 1QX. Tel: 01437 776676 Gear Shops pembrokeshire.gov.uk/leisure See advert inside back cover Up and Under Gower 490 Cowbridge Road East, Cardiff. Other walls include Dynamic Rock in CF5 1BL Tel: 02920 578579 Swansea, Rock UK in Trelewis near upandunder.co.uk Merthyr Tydfil, Cragfit in Abergavenny, See advert opposite Spot in south of Pontypridd, The Cube in Port Talbolt YMCA and Llangorse Crickhowell Adventure - Crickhowell. Activity Centre. crickhowelladventure.co.uk There are also Blacks, GoOutdoors

Inland and CoastalInland Limestone and Cotswold Outdoor shops in Cardiff, Swansea and/or Carmarthen. The ValleysSandstone

The Bay Bistro and Coffee House in Rhossili. Photo: Mark Glaister

Carmarthenshire Gower Limestone Coastal and Inland Sandstone Valleys The 27 27

(7a+) - page 314 - at Mountain Ash. Photo: Mark Glaister Dave Henderson making quick work of the steep and fingery orange-stained wall on Cointreau Climbing South Wales SportSouth Wales 26 26 Carmarthenshire Gower Inland and Coastal Limestone The Valleys Sandstone 28 South Wales Sport Climbing Access

In common with most climbing areas in the UK, there have always been access issues on the limestone and sandstone cliffs of South Wales. Carmarthenshire Clashes over nesting birds, flora, historical sites, land ownership, gardening and dogs have all been causes for disagreement in the past. Other issues such as drilling, path erosion and parking have also caused conflict. Despite this, and thanks to the great work of the BMC and its volunteers, the majority of the crags covered in this book currently have good access arrangements.

There are some restrictions and

Gower Xwarnings so please keep a look out for the red 'Restrictions' symbol (left). These are usually attributed because of nesting birds and the dates generally range from the beginning of February to the end of July. Other crags have very precise parking and approach requirements, whilst others have strict rules on what can and cannot be done due to the presence of

Inland and CoastalInland Limestone historic artefacts. At some sandstone quarries access is less well defined (often due to liability concerns) and has led to signs being erected that state that climbing is not allowed. In these cases climbing has often gone on unhindered for many years, but, should you be asked to leave, please do so politely and send details of the owner and circumstances to the BMC access officer. Individual crag access is covered in the respective chapters. Please read this information carefully and take The ValleysSandstone great care to follow the described approaches so as not to infringe any restrictions. If in any doubt contact the BMC (Tel: 0161 445 6111), or check the access section of the BMC website - thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/. John Warner and Jen Stephens on Bowen to the Inevitable (6a) - page 157 - at Bowen's Parlour, Gower. Photo: Warner Collection 30 South Wales Sport Climbing Gear and Bolting

Prolific new router and bolter Gary Gibson on the fine wall climbing of Asset Manager (6c) - page 61 - at Gear Morfa Bychan. Maintaining the bolts in South Wales The vast majority of the sport routes has been a massive undertaking and is ongoing. Please featured in this book have good solid bolts consider donating to the South Wales Bolt Fund (SWBF) and lower-offs in place. For most of the Carmarthenshire through UKBoltFund.org. Photo: Mark Glaister routes a 60m rope and 14 quickdraws is sufficient. However, there are a small number of lines that will require a longer rope to get down (and more quickdraws). To avoid any doubt, always tie a stopper knot in the dead end of the rope to ensure that it will not pass through the belay device. If you intend to climb any of the trad routes described then you will need a full rack of wires and cams.

Bolting The work of maintaining the bolts has

Gower been carried out by a few individuals and has been a huge task.

A plea from the bolt equippers Please do not top-rope or repeatedly lower from the lower-off bolts/ring/maillon/krab as this increases the wear on these fixed items which may then need premature replacement. If you are going to top-rope, or make multiple ascents, please do so

Inland and CoastalInland Limestone using your own quickdraws in the lower-off with only the last person threading the rope through the fixed lower-off point.

South Wales Bolt Fund The South Wales Bolt Fund (SWBF) was formed to help with the replacement of protection bolts and lower-offs throughout South Wales - southwalesboltfund.co.uk

If you have enjoyed the sport routes in this book then consider donating an evening's beer money to the SWBF. You can find the link to the PayPal page via UKBoltFund.

The ValleysSandstone org. Proceeds from a proportion of the sales of this guidebook will go towards the SWBF.

Support local bolting volunteers 32 South Wales Sport Climbing Grades Grades South Wales Sport Climbing 33

Most of the routes in this book are sport routes which are given a Sport Grade. ritish Trad Grade A sport route is defined as one where all the major protection comes from Carmarthenshire gear fixed in the rock (bolts). There are a few trad routes covered where the majority of the gear is carried by the lead climber and is hand-placed.

These are given a British Trad Grade Carmarthenshire and a red and white dotted line on the topo (instead of the normal red and yellow dotted line).

Sport Grade The sport grade is a measure of how hard it is going to be to get up a certain section of rock. It makes no attempt to tell you how hard the hardest move is,

Gower nor how scary a route is.

British Trad Grade Gower 1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, Severe, Hard Severe (HS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS), E1... to E10). An overall picture of the route including how well protected it is, how sustained and a general indication of the level of difficulty of the whole route.

Inland and CoastalInland Limestone 2) Technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c... to 7b). The difficulty of the hardest single move, or short section.

Colour Coding The routes are given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band. The colour represents a level that a climber should be happy at, hence sport routes tend to be technically harder than the equivalent coloured Limestone Inland and Coastal trad routes because the climber doesn't need to worry about the protection.

1 Up to 4c (Up to Severe) Mostly these should be good for beginners and those wanting an easy life. 2 5a to 6a+ (HS to HVS) The ValleysSandstone General ticking routes for those with more experience. 3 6b to 7a (E1 to E3) Routes for the experienced and keen climber. A grade band which includes many of the area's great classics.

4 7a+ and above (E4 and above) Sandstone Valleys The The really hard stuff including some top sport routes. Jordan Buys enjoying the 'black spot' route Palace of Swords Reversed (8a) - page 143 - at Foxhole on Gower. Photo: Mike Hutton 34 South Wales Sport Climbing Trad Climbing Bouldering and DWS South Wales Sport Climbing 35

There are many well established trad venues Ogmore (near Witches Point) There is plenty of bouldering on offer all Dinas Rock - See page 176 in South Wales that are not covered in this Adventurous single-pitch sea cliff trad climbing. over the area covered in this guidebook, The epicentre of limestone bouldering in the book. The variety of styles and grades is Pumpy banded limestone, and not well but the main developed venues are listed area with many problems throughout the vast, ranging from easy-going multi-pitch travelled but memorable. Abseil approach and below. The venues listed are covered on the grades up to f8a+. Most popular spot is the Carmarthenshire expeditions, to extremely serious lines in the tidal. Best routes - Flash Harry HS 4a, Pluto UKClimbing and SWMC databases and topos Kennelgarth Wall - an undercut smooth wall upper E grades. Below is a list of the best VS 4c, Pinnochio HVS 4c, Glycogen E1 5a, and information on these and many other cut by a few cracks. venues and some brief information that will Spellbinder E5 6a. bouldering spots in the area is available at give an idea of what to expect. All the cliffs swbg.co.uk Ogmore-by-Sea (near Witches Point)

and routes can be found on the SWMC and Dinas Rock - See page 176 Lots of very good seashore problems on wave Carmarthenshire UKClimbing databases and in the guidebooks Home to a small number of difficult limestone Oxwich (Gower) - On map on page 127 sculpted limestone. Grades from f5 to f7b+. Gower Rock and Gower & S.E. Wales. trad lines. Best routes - Groovy Tube Day E1 Seashore limestone boulders of all shapes Slightly tidal and bring a mat as there are 5b, Spain E4 6a, Dina Crac E9 7a. and sizes that are the remnants of a huge rock rocky landings. Lewes Castle (Gower) - On map on page 104 slide. Now developed to give many problems Mid-grade limestone coastal cliff set above a The Sandstone that range from f4 to f7c+. Tidal approach and Neath Abbey Quarry - See map on page 257 fine beach.Best routes - Isis HVS 5a, Osiris Spread about all over the multitude of bring a mat as the boulders sit on a rocky A good sandstone boulderfield, but with some VS 4c, Southwest Diedre HVS 5a. sandstone quarries are some worthwhile trad platform. access issues. lines - although they see little traffic and may Yellow Wall (Gower) - On map on page 104 need a brush-off before an attempt. All of the Pwlldu East, (Gower) Sully Island - See map on page 255 A big steep limestone sea-cliff with strenuous routes listed below are covered in the Valleys Two good limestone areas south of A tidal limestone bouldering area close to Gower multi-pitch routes in the E grades. Tidal with an Sandstone section of this guidebook. Bishopston. Lots to do in the f5s and f6s plus Cardiff. Lots to do across the grades.

abseil approach. Best routes - Yellow Wall E3 Best routes - Lamb Leer Diease E2 5c, some harder stuff. Gower 5c. Transformer E3 5c. Thumbsucker E5 6a, Just Hanging Around The scope for Deep Water Soloing is wide E1 5b, The Owl and the Antelope E2 5c, The (Gower) - Map on page 169 given a good high tide on many of the Great Tor and Three Cliffs Bay (Gower) Expansionist E3 5b, Crack Basher E3 5c. An area near Rams Tor with a good range of sea cliffs, but the most popular spots are Beautiful seaside limestone cliffs with many problems. Sheepbone Wall at Rhossili Bay (good for lower and mid-grade lines both single and easier lines), Giants Cave on Gower (Steep multi-pitch. Tidal. Best routes - Great Tor East stuff over good water), Ogmore (wild, high and Ridge HS 4a, Scavenger VS 4c, Arch Slab serious top-end venue). VS 4c. Inland and CoastalInland Limestone Inland and Coastal Limestone Inland and Coastal The ValleysSandstone The Valleys Sandstone Valleys The

Bridget Collier finishing the brilliant corner of the classic Alex Mannion on Coup De Tat (f6c+) at the seashore Ogmore trad route Pluto (VS 4c). Photo: Mark Glaister boulders of Oxwich, on Gower. Photo: Simon Rawlinson

Carmarthenshire Gower Limestone Coastal and Inland Sandstone Valleys The 37 52 60 74 90 84 84 90 173 167 200 130 192 115 180 154 186 167 138 222 186 198 225 180 212 218 230 136 230 229 222 192 208 182 198 182 200 234 142 156 . .

. . 49 80 132 119 193 194 30, 62 ...... Miss You Crock Block Daggers ...... Kissin' the Pink Dream Academy World Twilight Deadly Nightshade ...... Spider Vladimir and the Pearl . . . Totally Radish Totally Sophie's Wit Tank Decades Apart Clip Joint Battle of the Bulge ...... Call a Spade a Spade . . . . . Organised Chaos Par 3 Black Adder Glucosamine and Chondroitin Charlie's Rusks Any Old Iron Half Pipe Dream ...... Hanging by a Thread Asset Manager ...... Dance . . . St. Vitus's Yet in the Old Dog There's Life ...... Fats Waller . . . . . Five O'Clock Shadow Blockiness Easy . . . . . Diagnosis Made ...... El Camino Del Roy Chinese Whispers . . . . . Beware of Poachers Genghis Khan Stare . . . . . Thousand Yard Look Over Yonder Thin Lizzy ...... Goose in Lucy Gentlemen Prefer Bolts Ω Ω Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω *** * Ω * Ω 4 Ω 6c * Ω 4 Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω *** 4 Ω 4 Ω 6c+ * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω 4 Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω * Ω 86 89 72 60 211 167 154 138 180 144 182 142 167 229 188 225 149 209 138 198 150 138 115 211 186 116 170 130 209 178 136 198 229 186 182 211 230 230 144 106 144 144 182 198 106

. . 11 39 21 46 Jordan Buys on the super technical Chives of Freedom (7c) - page 190 - at Dinas Rock. Photo: Mike Hutton 213 151 135 206 139 105 146 . . 1, 174 ...... South Wales Sport Climbing Wales South ...... Jezebel ...... When I'm 64 Pump Action The Inflated Roundhead . . . . Ducky Lucky The De-Regulators ...... Marine Layer King George verses Ashes to Ashes Liassic Lark ...... Fuelled by Pies ...... Jump the Sun It's a Black World Sink or Swim ...... the Suffragettes and Go ...... Touch The Conneticut Connection The Raven French Undressing ...... Normal Norman ...... Stray Cats Debbie Reynolds The Cool Crux Clan Inspector Glueseau Bristol Beat Rob Roy ...... The Drilling Fields LA Confidential Moustache ...... Tragic Gorilliant Marmalade Skies . . . . . Munsterosity for Cream Scream . . Berlin ...... The World-v-Gibson ...... the Top at Tufa Joy de Viva The Hant Foxy Lady The Hooker Jacky Fisher's Phobia Pugsley She's Slipping Away Melting Man ...... Tribulations Jump to Conclusions . . . Ω Ω Ω Ω

** Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω *** ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω *** ** Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω 4 Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω 7a+ * Ω ** Ω 4 Ω 7a ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** * Ω ** Ω *** * Ω * Ω 89 89 86 89 86 86 86 89 190 184 144 130 130 229 188 188 142 186 116 229 229 106 167 116 229 150 118 130 230 124 184 116 116 116 188 173 229 191 191 115 211 106 130 184 154 142 142 188 124

. 13 85 126 166 113 226 177 225

cover . . . 5, 140 25, 33 . . opposite ...... List Graded Limestone ...... Smashed Rat ...... Lurking ...... Turkey Bitchin' ...... Pioneers of the Berlin Extension ...... The Black Pearl Palace of Swords Helvetia Mortal Kombat ...... Dog Days are Over ...... de Ray . . . Surplomb . Achilles' Wrath ...... Mr.T. Air Show Cannonade ...... Masada Direct Black Wall Wrecking Ball ...... Bellerophon Under Arrest Super Size Me Kestrel Hydraulic Lunch ...... The Milkier Way Grow-Up! ...... Ultimatum Chives of Freedom . . Basilica Department of Correction Resisting Arrest ...... Wide Eyed and Legless Still Life Depot ...... One Ton Rotbeest This God is Mine Harlem ...... The Sharp Cereal Professor Popped In, Souled Out ...... Trailblazer Retrobution Red River Rock Roof Rat on a Hot Tin Parlour Games ...... Red with Rage . . . . . Hypnotic Groove Staple Diet ...... Reversed Captain Barbarossa Zulu Wall Vennerne Delta Dagger Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω

4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω *** * Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω *** 8a *** ** Ω 8b+ 4 Ω 8b 4 Ω 8a+ *** ** Ω *** ** Ω *** ** Ω *** ** Ω 7b ** Ω 7c+ *** ** Ω ** Ω *** ** Ω 7c * Ω * Ω ** Ω 7b+ ** Ω 4 Ω *** *** ** Ω *** 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω *** ** Ω *** ** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω Graded Lists Graded

Limestone Graded List Graded Limestone These graded lists cover many of the popular routes of the popular routes many lists cover These graded by been put together have They in the guidebook. the to close attention paying main authors the four will spot readers Eagle-eyed UKC Logbook votes. appear Telpyn crag on the sandstone that routes the due to deliberate This is list. in the limestone location and the climbing stylecrag's being similar Carmarthenshire the other nearby crags. to

South Wales Sport Climbing Wales South 36 Carmarthenshire Gower Inland and Coastal Limestone The Valleys Sandstone

Carmarthenshire Gower Limestone Coastal and Inland Sandstone Valleys The 39 King George verses the Suffragettes (7a+) - page Anya Forino enjoying the steep and juggy ground on the popular Photo: Simon Rawlinson. 88 - at Shipwreck Cove, Gower. South Wales Sport Climbing Wales South List Graded Limestone 98 98 98 98 98 84 94 94 98 98 106 106 111 173 106 225 142 220 225 222 225 186 156 136 196 198 106 142

. .

. 108 172 101 102 217 4c ...... Blockbuster U47 Telefunken Dawson's Creek ...... Atomic Wedgie Wedgling Cash in the Attic Dew Bin . . . . . Wedge Basil Brush Brittle Biscuit ...... Holds May Spin . . . . . Back, Crack and Sack The Road to Eldorado Dawson's Corner ...... Wisdom of Age White Noise ...... Excavation Wittle Thieving Lankers . . . . Sharktopus vs Megapotamus . . . . Fistful of Tenners Jug Fest ...... Schengen ...... Border Control ...... Bulbus Tara Fish Hotel . . . . . The Trevena The Power of the Buckets of Bubbly Buckets A Mermaids Tale A Mermaids . The Plumb ...... Leopard Skin Leg Warmers Ω

* Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω 5a * Ω * Ω *** * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω 4 Ω 4b * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω 3a * Ω 5b * Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 98 92 64 98 74 98 60 74 90 196 156 115 160 173 142 106 238 178 156 209 212 156 212 208 222 111 216 136 156 225 222 156 200 196 243 204 111 225 115 243 234 196 136 196 163 173 229 222 225 156 225 115 243 222 234 154 156 163 212 120 .

.

82 66 28 114 239 215 244 164 237 122 . . Limestone Graded List Graded Limestone ...... Megalodon ...... Gentleman's Retreat Cinders Catch Lemon Soul ...... Aur of Glory ...... Don't Jis on My Sofa . . . . . Unholy Alliance Pillars of the Earth ...... Fromage Frais Salty Dog ...... Clair de Lune Wreckers ball ...... Bowen Arrow ...... Landfill Tax ...... Once Upon a Time Go With The Flow Spit it Out Under the Mattress Black Night's Rein House) (Watch Sport Wars All of a Quiver Snap Crackle ’n' Pop Sister Mary's Blessed Finger Pwll Du Crack Sallies of Youth Mega Mix ...... Angry Pirate ...... Nietzche's Niche Stalag Luft ...... No Fathers Day Monica's Dress Heading South ...... me up the Hindu Kush . . Take The Enema Affair ...... Descarte's Dithers Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra Kiss the Gunner's Daughter . . Tickety-Boo Poppin' in the Poop Deck Stinking of Fish Pelagic Mush ...... Sane Bolter . . . . . You There's No Business Like... . . Under a Blood red Sky . . . . Blow Me, Another One . . Gentleman's Relish a Tumble Johnny Takes Bowen to the Inevitable . . No Beer, No Fear No Beer, ...... Wall Southeast Reverted Revisionist Mr Potato Head 3D Dog Flake . . . Christian Broke My Assistant . . . . . Sorcerer's Rudaceous Ramble le Sport Parlour Vous . First Handout ...... Hanger Then High Knackers Yard Hung Over Y'all Come Back Now . . . Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω 4 Ω ** Ω *** * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω 5c * Ω * Ω * Ω 6a * Ω * Ω ** Ω 6a+ ** Ω 4 Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 90 74 64 92 72 90 60 84 60 74 251 218 229 160 180 200 225 120 115 138 222 156 120 234 138 136 234 154 222 120 130 154 136 182 136 182 144 120 230 200 198 120 156 229 149 220 173 178 198 178 212 149 216 182 211

. . . . 62 59 77 248 219 232 153 137 ...... South Wales Sport Climbing Wales South ...... John's Route Cod Liver Oil A Starke Reminder ...... Straight as a Dai The Deflated Dickhead . . . . Unleashed Good Cheer . . . . Good Gear, Magic Carpet Threadbare ...... Bolus Feed ...... Fiesta ...... Straining Pitch ...... Flow Job Feud For Thought Hot Flush ...... Great Expectorations Left Wing Rebolt Anonymous Bosch ...... Smoke and Mirrors Bottom Drawers ...... Fly Leaves ...... Tea Magic Touch Scarface ...... Sand Man ...... Steel Yourself ...... Gently ...... Tread Open Roads ...... Rock Bottom Squash the Squaddie . . . . . Sideburn The Day the Sky Fell In The Day . . Off the Peg ...... Croeso I Gymru ...... Rum Thieves Inch Mix Gwest y Gymru 7 Bulbous Taurus Selling Short Breccial Motion Reaction Series Jaded Locals Sigh Triple Sidewinder ...... Wij Zitten...Een Sneeuwstorm Cheesy Rider Red Square Creme de Roquefort Rag And Bone Beyond the Fringe Fergie's Folly Soapy Dahl Miss Alto All's Well A Freem of White Horses ...... Credit Squeeze

Ω Ω

** Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω *** ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω *** * Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω 4 Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω 6b * Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω 6b+ 4 Ω 38 Carmarthenshire Gower Inland and Coastal Limestone The Valleys Sandstone

Carmarthenshire Gower Limestone Coastal and Inland Sandstone Valleys The 41 316 310 326 338 371 324 343 331 364 258 310 287 327 372 324 314 287 280 287 287 287 372 324 310 327 310 332 316 280 327 314 338 294 300 322 322 322 373 324 300 338 300 324 364

313 337 367 323 299 4c opposite ...... Looking for Leather . . . . . Per Rectum Rocky ...... Mister Faraday ...... Shy ...... Twice Rockover Beethoven Little Queen Pocket Battleship ...... The Forgotten Route Dicky Dyson ...... Newton's Apple Mental Mantles Generation Gap Stump . . . . . Weeping He Sawed ...... Leaky Ball Cock Down Under ...... Fairy Godmother Raspberry Ripple ...... Ripple Slab Leading Edge ...... Grout Expectations the Plank ...... Yank Up Yours Hey Mister ...... Crash Landing Groping For Jugs ...... Rising Sap ...... Galvanised The Godfather . . . . I Came ...... Beavers at Bargoed Campaign For See Through Bikinis Earl of Porth Marlin on the Wall Kabuto Mushi Fluster The Chimney Finish . . . . . Poker in the Eye ...... to Ponty . . . . . Baldy Walks Hawk's Cheep Discount Included Shackles of Love Drag Queen in the Price ...... Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω

* * ** * * 5c * ** ** * ** * * * 5b * 5a * * * * * 3a * 6a * * * ** * * 4 6a+ ** ** * * * 4 * ** * ** * ** * ** ** * * 331 324 343 356 331 258 372 338 371 291 324 331 364 346 322 272 324 371 326 289 318 338 372 322 331 331 294 326 362 314 297 360 300 327 326 258 304 287 343 355 297 322 324 327 364 338 322 364 353 264 364 331 373 372 272

3 14 374 270 317 328 293 359 365 ...... South Wales Sport Climbing Wales South ...... Rattle Those Tusks Nappy Rush ...... High Moon ...... Half Man, Half Machine Bad Bad Boy Teacher The Tactless Pepperatzi Lundy Boy Firewater Land of the Dinosaurs . . . . Blood Sweat and Beers A Poxy Queen Post Expressionist ...... Don't Blame Me ...... Forkwit Terry Balthazaar's Ball Sac Bulges.. 338 Ring of Confidence The Cragmeister Greased Balls ...... Catch The Pigeon ...... A Certain Peace Brittania ...... Diamond Dog ...... Bluster ...... The Relaxed Ladybird The Relaxed Behind the Lines Scrotum Oil Hostility Suite Molybdenum Man Moses Supposes Queens of Elf and Safety ...... The Grout Of San Romano Controlled Emission . . . . . Enigma ...... Black Magic ...... Sorry Lorry Morry ...... Dirtbag Arete Dirty as a Dog . . . . Machina . . . Deus Ex Peachy ...... Killer Arete ...... His Toeses Were Roses . . . . Were His Toeses So Uncool Gap) . . . Leave it to Me (The The Mastic Mick Strange Little Girl . . . . the Stone Age Beware the Burly Butcher of Bargoed Yikes Raving Queen Piano Dentist ...... Gaz 316 Slip into the Queen The Bolt Fund Blues . . . . . Flakes and Chips Logic ...... Twisted Crock Licker ...... Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω

** * * * * * * ** * ** ** ** * * 4 * * ** * * ** * * ** ** ** * ** * * ** * ** ** 6b * ** ** * * 6c ** 6b+ ** 4 * ** * 4 ** * * * ** ** * * * ** 269 371 314 324 338 314 314 304 327 351 308 332 338 364 348 372 355 356 291 331 338 300 304 297 360 360 360 324 360 308 324 342 324 304 304 324 360 332 318 360 360 294 300 258 326 300 297 294 291 364 304

26 267 341 369 357 321 252 361 ...... Sandstone Graded List Graded Sandstone ...... Supertramp Get Flossed ...... Lyddite Pastis on Ice Outspan ...... Round Are Way Scared Seal Banter Slip into Something Sexy Propaganda Eastern Block Rock ...... Blowing For Tugs Sheer Heart Attack ...... Food for Parasites Nosepicker ...... Enema of the Affair Hair of the Dog Great Expectations ...... Our Man In Bargoed Gorki's Zygotic Mynci Rise Dai Hard ...... Skanderbeg 'King Ada ...... Butcher Heinrich Salmon Running, Bear Cunning . . King Zog Mother of Pearl Sunday Pleasant Valley Cointreau ...... Contraband The Basildon Snapper Mad at the Sun Mad at the ...... Sharpy Unplugged ...... Encore Magnifique . . . . . Face ...... Shaken but not Stirred . . . . Western Front Direct Western Misadventure ...... Gott in Himmel Mawr Mawr, Mawr, The Uninvited ...... Rhubarb Lets Fly Leave it to Me (Dyffryn) . . . . Mind One Track Demi Moore ...... Off the Sun Turn Free and Single . . . . Young Banog's Barmy Army . . . . . Killer Queen ...... Hail Mary ...... Boots . . . . Fairies Wear Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω 4 4 4 ** ** ** ** ** ** *** 4 ** * ** ** 4 * * ** * * ** ** ** ** ** ** 7a+ *** *** ** Ω 4 7c *** 7b+ ** 7b ** *** 6c+ * 7a 4 ** * 4 ** * * ** * * ** ** ** * ** Sandstone Graded List Graded Sandstone

South Wales Sport Climbing Wales South

The compact wall of excellent sandstone at Coed Ely has some worthwhile lines that pack in the moves, despite their relatively modest height. The quarry and a suntrap. In this picture is sheltered Paul Cox is tackling the surprisingly steep finishing crack of Campaign For See-through Bikinis (6a+) - page 295 . Photo: Mark Glaister 40 Carmarthenshire Gower Inland and Coastal Limestone The Valleys Sandstone

Carmarthenshire Gower Limestone Coastal and Inland Sandstone Valleys The 48 58 70 78 82 Page 148 152 158 166 168 172 176 194 206 214 226 236 248 104 112 126 134 140 Summary A collection of walls, overhangs and small zawns with a good spread of A collection of walls, overhangs and small zawns with a good to climb grades. Some sections are tidal but there is always something to find your way around on first acquaintance. in calm seas. Awkward the An interesting set of tidal sea cliffs with a range of routes across on a first grades. A little awkward to navigate around the various cliffs visit. A bird restriction on one wall. grade One good hard section of quarried cliff with a number of tough covered 7s. There are other easier lines on the same wall, but these are in mud that has washed down over the face. across it. Tricky overhangs running A wide crag that has bands of fierce is now to reach since the descent path is overgrown - the best access via abseil. A gloomy inland old quarry working that has some intense slab climbs. Access problems. premier crags that has lots of hard climbs on One of South Wales’s Also home to excellent limestone, and is set in a lovely quiet valley. some accessible easier climbing. face Impressive walls and close to Cardiff. A good number of long road noise routes that are generally on good rock. The drawback is the from the A470. Some easier routes. and the other slabby. main sections of contrasting cliff, one steep Two the The setting is off putting but the climbing is good. In summer dense tree canopy shelters some of the cliff from rainfall. and A series of quarried bays located high above the Usk Valley and with stunning views. Plenty here for those climbing in the lower mid-grades. Very good rock. A steep, high standard cliff set next to a fine surf beach. Many excellent routes that need crisp conditions to be enjoyed to the full. Only marginally tidal at its landward end. A long line of low walls just around the headland from Witches Point. and next to a quiet Many steep and sharp lines on solid rock. Tidal beach. A hidden quarried wall of good, steep slabs. It is prone to getting dirty and the approach path is overgrown. A remote but friendly sea cliff, composed of hard vertical sandstone, sandstone, of hard vertical cliff, composed but friendly sea A remote trad crags. the Pembroke easy reach of and within A good discovery tidal, should become popular. that, although slightly mid-grades. with many fine routes in the Easy access and the effort but well worth due to a tight tide window, Restricted access that take strong lines on a visit. Substantial climbs needed in planning good quality limestone. quarryA small sandstone are useful if you with some easier routes that looking for a local evening venue. are passing, or spectrum, straight off of one of Wales’s Lots of routes across the grade and conditions are not always ideal. finest beaches. The crags are tidal the beach, with wide ranging A collection of walls set high above 8s. Reliable conditions, little in the way appeal from grade 5s to grade from the car or beach. of seepage and only a short distance with some fine sport crags that offer A stunning section of coast dotted higher grades. Excellent rock and the plenty of routes in the mid and cliff climbing. cliffs have the ambience of sea access and a good set of (mainly) hard An impressive venue with easy is an impressive leaning wall and the routes. There are two areas - one the woods - an SSSI. other a smaller hidden wall in has some House Slab near Southgate. Watch contrasting crags Two more House East has The overhanging Watch slabby pitches. fierce conventional fare. in the Superb sport crag that offers some of the best steep climbing sunny area, on excellent rock. Climbing is possible in the rain and on days in winter if seepage is not present. Short approach. of An unusual setting in a large sea-level cave/zawn with a number atmospheric lines. Cliff is of historic importance so some restrictions on what can and cannot be done. Tides % % % % % % % % % % % -age Seep @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ tions Restric- X X X X C Rain Dry in ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ered Shelt- $ * * * * * * * * * * * * * Sun R Y T { U Q R U U R R U U U U Q U U Q E W W W Faded symbol means that only some of the routes are sheltered / dry in the rain / restricted / suffer from seepage / tidal from / suffer / dry / restricted in the rain sheltered are some of the routes means that only symbol Faded 5-6 min 10-15 min 5 min 10 min 1 min 1-5 min 10-13 min 5-12 min 15 min 15 min 25-40 min 10 min 2-12 min 10 min 2-10 min 12-14 min 8-10 min 10 min 10 min 10 min 10-12 min 15 min 20 min Approach S S F A F S G G F A G G G G G G S A F F F A A - - - 9 3 6 2 5 8 5 7 9 2 4 7 10 15 17 16 18 13 22 53 7a+ and and 7a+ up 6 3 5 7 4 10 18 19 15 12 13 12 16 17 40 40 29 31 22 22 43 22 23 6b to 7a to 6b - - 8 7 5 3 1 7 5 6 11 11 10 13 15 15 18 18 29 40 53 20 24 5 to 6a+ 5 to ------3 3 7 1 9 1 5 3 1 2 1 23 up to 4+ to up 11 10 12 14 14 47 46 37 32 49 36 20 55 41 71 26 54 77 28 64 62 108 124 Routes Oxwich Gilwern Foxhole Pendine Rams Tor Taff's Well Taff's Pwlldu Bay Cwm Capel Dinas Rock Temple Bay Temple Telpyn Point Telpyn Minchin Hole Minchin Watch House Watch Witches Point Witches Morfa Bychan Trial Wall Area Wall Trial Rhossili Beach Barland Quarry Barland Taff's Well West Well Taff's Castle Upon Alun Bosco's Area Gulch Bowen's Area Bowen's Parlour

Destination Planner Destination Third Sister to Zulu Zawn to Sister Third

Inland and Coastal Limestone Coastal and Inland Gower Carmarthenshire 42 Carmarthenshire Gower Inland and Coastal Limestone The Valleys Sandstone

Carmarthenshire Gower Limestone Coastal and Inland Sandstone Valleys The Page 298 302 306 312 320 328 334 336 340 352 354 358 368 256 262 266 274 278 284 286 288 290 292 296 Summary A small cliff with some stiff problems that is only a minute from the railway A small cliff with some stiff problems that is only a minute from passing. station platform. Good for grabbing some quick routes when in the 7th grade. climbs Local training crag that has a wall of super-steep A vertical blank wall at the far end of the quarry that is home to some finger searing testpieces. Some of the easier lines are also worthwhile. get to. Many A collection of quarried walls shrouded by trees and quick to decent routes across the grades. Still gets attention ground of hard climbing in the Valleys. The old forcing well- which keeps it in good condition. Some classic pitches on reliable equipped rock. Very fingery climbing. and technical aspect and A lovely spot with good sport routes and also some trad. Sunny restriction due to nesting birds early in the year. with excellent rock. Variable A fine little crag located on the edge of a country park. It has a steep wall of fine. Restriction grade 7s. Access has been a problem in the past but is now due to nesting birds early in the year. here for most set in woods, with lots of routes. Something A small quarry, climbers, but the grades are quite stiff. A massive quarry impressive walls. Good routes, but much of the quarry with stayed is now reverting back to nature although some of the walls have relatively clean. to stay in A local crag that has been extensively cleaned but needs traffic condition. little crag with good routes. Seepage can be a problem. No A small fierce official access but climbing is usually tolerated. with brilliant climbs on its two best best. A lovely spot One of the Valleys's Sensitive access - keep the noise Walls. walls - The Rust Curtain and Western down and pay attention to parking information. An excellent little quarry that has lots of good lines on clean and well-bolted rock. A very pleasant spot to hang out and climb. No official access but climbing is usually tolerated. A good local spot with lots of short but interesting lines in a quiet location. interesting lines lots of short but local spot with A good An old quarry and overlooking the of climbs close to the M4 with plenty Talbot. steelworks at Port valley and high above the some good climbs. It is perched A quiet venue with cliff and therefore is a warm Has the feeling of a mountain has stunning views. weather venue. steep quarryA compact and nearby Gelli. easily combined with a visit to that is A local venue. approach routes good for locals on a summer evening. The Lots of lower-grade but the crag itself is quiet and pleasant. is a bit grotty initially, A series of vertical walls in a quarry valley. high above the A good little quarry for some easier lines. Quiet spot. impressive lines, but prone to becoming An easily accessed crag with some birds early in the year. vegetated. Restriction due to nesting Plenty of sun in winter and dries A small local spot good for a workout. quickly. A nice little quarrygood rock. Sunny and with a handful of tough lines on sheltered but with some access issues. a A small quarry the hillside with a limited number of routes. Worth high on look for the climbs on the Killer Arete buttress. -age Seep @ @ @ @ @ tions Restric- X X X X C C C Rain Dry in ! ! ! ! ered Shelt- $ $ $ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Faded symbol means that only some of the routes are sheltered / dry in the rain / restricted / suffer from seepage from / suffer / dry / restricted in the rain sheltered are some of the routes means that only symbol Faded Sun T R U R U U R } R R } U R } Y R R } E E W W W W 4-12 min 2-5 min 12 min 1 min 10-20 min 4 min 10 min 10 min 10 min 1 min 4 min 5 min 3-4 min 13 min 7 min 13 min 10 min 20 min 10 min 10 min 13 min 10 min 2-4 min Roadside Approach S S A S A A D S S S S S D H S D S D S S S S S S ------2 2 3 7 1 2 4 1 1 9 6 4 5 3 3 10 15 13 7a+ and and 7a+ up 9 6 6 8 7 6 5 9 9 8 11 11 10 10 18 14 17 16 13 62 26 24 24 22 6b to 7a to 6b - 7 7 6 2 1 4 2 2 5 8 2 8 1 6 6 16 14 19 23 27 21 27 21 5 to 6a+ 5 to ------8 2 3 1 2 9 7 1 up to 4+ to up 9 9 8 11 15 19 14 14 17 18 27 29 21 30 87 56 45 50 22 34 39 25 56 55 Routes Deri Gelli Dyffryn Sirhowy The Gap Bargoed Ferndale Trehafod Glynfach Coed Ely Trebanog Dan Dicks Cwmaman Ton Pentre Ton Tirpentwys The Darren Tyle y Coch Tyle Llanbradach Blaenllechau Mountain Ash

Abbey Buttress Abbey Crymlyn Quarry Crymlyn Treherbert Quarry Treherbert Navigation Quarry Navigation

Destination Planner Destination The Valleys Sandstone Valleys The 44 Carmarthenshire Gower Inland and Coastal Limestone The Valleys Sandstone